CH702310B1 - Invisible decoration piece. - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to a decoration piece comprising several stones (2) and a fixing device (7 ') stones (2) relative to each other. According to the invention, the fixing device (7 ') comprises a single base (9') making it possible to fasten all the stones (2) relative to one another by their yoke (4) and in that the laminates (6) ) stones (2) are mounted edge to edge relative to each other so that said single base is masked. The invention also relates to the method of manufacturing such a part. The invention relates to the field of jewelery articles, jewelery or timepieces.

Description

Description

FIELD OF THE INVENTION [0001] The invention relates to a piece of invisible set decoration and, more specifically, a decorative piece in particular for an item of jewelery or jewelery forming a paved stone capable of decorating a surface.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION [0002] It is known to crimp precious, semi-precious or synthetic stones using claws, grains or rails. There are also crimps of the invisible type which solidarises the stones by their breech. In the current state of the techniques of invisible seam, there are many methods (by milling, casting, clipping, screwing, etc.) which according to well-defined systems have many disadvantages: the natures, geometries and dimensions of the stones are often limited, the heights, the depths and the angles of the throats are often constraining, the scratches, grits and cracks of stones during the operations exist, even the repairs during a change of stone cause grits on the annexed stones, etc. Also, the majority of these methods require, during the crimping operation, the manual intervention of a crimper. Even if the latter is highly qualified, the risk of loss, scratching, cracking or scratching of the stones is permanent. SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION [0003] The object of the present invention is to overcome all or part of the aforementioned drawbacks proposing an industrial manufacturing process that makes it possible to obtain a homogeneous assembly of the stones, a diversity of shape, an improved accuracy, and a better quality fixation at a lower cost.

For this purpose, the invention relates to a decoration piece comprising a plurality of stones and a device for fixing the stones relative to one another, characterized in that the fixing device comprises a single base allowing attaching all the stones to each other by their breech and in that the stone layers are mounted edge to edge relative to each other so that said single base is masked.

According to other advantageous features of the invention: - the single base covers or not all the yokes of said stones; the fastening device comprises at least one groove made in at least one of the stones at their yoke so that the single base, of shape at least partially corresponding to each yoke, forms at least one hook for each of the at least one of the stones; said at least one groove forms two grooves in two faces of the cylinder head; the single base comprises at least one reflection layer deposited on the cylinder heads; the single base comprises a second layer electrodeposited from said at least one reflection layer in order to improve the strength of the decoration piece; the single base comprises pure silver and a protective layer covering the silver in order to prevent its tarnishing by oxidation.

The invention also relates to an article of jewelry or jewelery and a timepiece characterized in that they comprise, reported, a decoration part according to one of the previous variants.

Finally, the invention relates to a method of manufacturing a decoration part characterized in that it comprises the following steps: a) to provide several stones; b) solidariser the table of each stone against a support, the layers of stones being mounted edge to edge relative to each other to form a paved stones; c) depositing a first electrically conductive layer on at least a portion of said yokes; d) electroplating a second layer from said electrically conductive layer to form a single base; e) removing the decoration piece thus formed by disconnecting each of said tables relative to the support.

According to other advantageous features of the invention: the method comprises, between step a) and step b), step f): etching at least one groove in said cylinder heads so that the single base electrodeposited during step d) fills each of said at least one groove forming a fastening hook; the support comprises an electrically insulating material; the process comprises, between step c) and step d), step g): forming a frame around said pad in order to circumscribe the electrolytic deposition of step d) above said stone heads.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS [0009] Other features and advantages will become clear from the description which is given hereinafter, by way of indication and in no way limitative, with reference to the accompanying drawings, in which: FIG. 1 is a perspective representation of a step of fixing stones according to the invention; fig. 2 is a sectional representation of the end of the fixing step according to the invention; fig. 3 is an enlarged partial representation of FIG. 2; fig. 4 is a representation of FIG. 3 according to an alternative of the invention; fig. 5 is a representation similar to FIG. 3 of a first deposition step according to the invention; fig. 6 is a perspective representation of a second deposition step according to the invention; fig. 7 is a sectional representation of the end of the second deposition step according to the invention; fig. 8 is a sectional representation of a decorative piece according to the invention; fig. 9 is a sectional representation of a decorative piece according to another alternative of the invention; fig. 10 is a top view of a decorative piece according to the invention; fig. 11 is a top view of a decorative part according to a variant of the invention; fig. 12 is a top view of a decorative piece according to another variant of the invention; fig. 13 is a block diagram of the manufacturing method according to the invention.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS [0010] As illustrated in FIGS. 8 to 12, the invention relates to generally annotated decorating parts 1, 3 and 5 which can be reported, in particular, on jewelery and jewelery articles and timepieces (especially on the dial and the dial). dressing). However, these decoration pieces 1,3, 5 can not be limited to the above applications. For example, the decorative pieces 1, 3, 5 could also be reported on other objects such as, for example, glasses.

More particularly, the invention relates to a fastening device 7, 7 'of the invisible crimp type for attaching several precious stones 2, semi-precious or synthetic by their cylinder head 4 so that the laminates 6 stones 2 (also called rondistes) are mounted side by side so that the tables 8 of the stones 2 are substantially coplanar.

Thus, whatever the distribution and / or shape of the stones 2 used as illustrated for example in FIGS. 10 to 12, the fixing device 7, 7 'comprises a single base 9, 9' attaching the stones 2 to each other very precisely. Advantageously according to the invention and contrary to what is usually done to manufacture an invisible seam, the material of the base 9, 9 'is made as and as and not removed and then deformed as and when.

It is immediately understood that the single base 9, 9 ', which is preferably mainly electrodeposited, and allows to perfectly cover the cylinder head 4 2 with a minimum of mechanical stresses transmitted to the stones.

Thus, advantageously according to the invention, the base 9, 9 'is natively shaped corresponding to the yokes 4 of the stones 2 whatever the dispersions thereof. This is made possible by the use of a manufacturing method 21 according to the invention which will be explained hereinafter and which comprises in particular a step 29 of electroplating.

The single base 9, 9 'and comprises at least two layers 11, 11' and 13, 13 '. In the examples of FIG. 5, 7, 8 and 9, the respective thicknesses of the layers 11, 11 'and 13, 13' are not on the same scale for a better understanding. Indeed, the first layer 11, 11 'is actually much smaller than the thickness shown in FIGS. 5, 7, 8, 9 and very small relative to the thickness of the second layer 13, 13 '.

The first layer 11, 11 'is intended to adhere to the yokes 4 of the stones 2 but also to provide an electrically conductive layer capable of serving as a sprouting surface of the second layer 13, 13' which will be electrodeposited. If the first layer 11, 11 'has a preponderant role compared to the final aesthetic of the decorative part 1,3, 5, the second layer 13, 13' is, it, mainly used for its mechanical characteristics, c ' that is to say, aims to improve the strength of the decoration piece 1,3,5.

Thus, preferably according to the invention, the first layer 11, 11 'comprises a high reflection material to be used as a reflection layer of ambient light. It is understood that such a layer 11, 11 'thus makes it possible not to reduce too much the brightness of the decorative part 1, 3, 5.

By way of example, according to the products and / or materials on which the decoration piece 1,3, 5 is reported, the first layer 11, 11 'may comprise gold and / or the silver and / or platinum and / or palladium and / or iridium and / or copper and / or titanium and / or aluminum and / or nickel and / or tin and / or zinc. The second layer 13, 13 ', which is, as explained above, much thicker than the first layer 11, 11', can take from the latter the same materials or their alloys.

Preferably, when the single base 9, 9 'will be selected silver, a protective layer, such as silicon nitride to a thickness of a few microns, will be used in recovery to avoid tarnishing due to oxidation of silver.

In a first embodiment illustrated in FIG. 8, the fastening device 7 comprises a single base 9 whose two layers 11,13 cover all of the yokes 4 of the stones 2. This first embodiment allows a maximum brightness and / or a very homogeneous aesthetic of the decoration piece. 1,3,5.

In a second embodiment illustrated in FIG. 9, the fixing device 7 'comprises a single base 9' whose two layers 11 ', 13' do not cover all the yokes 4 of the stones 2. As illustrated in FIG. 9, the single base 9 'thus forms a mesh which follows the leaflet 6 of the stones 2. This second embodiment improves the total internal reflection of the stones 2 used for the decoration piece 1,3, 5. It allows also not having to open the single base mechanically, for example, using a crimping tool, and thus to avoid scratching the stones.

The decoration piece 1,3,5 thus formed, even in more or less complex shapes, such as, for example, a shape 3 in wave illustrated in FIG. 11, a form 5 without particular symmetry illustrated in FIG. 12 or a completely symmetrical form 1 illustrated in FIG. 10, can, therefore, be easily reported on a final product through its single base 9, 9 '.

According to an alternative of the invention visible in FIGS. 3, 8 and 9, in order to improve the fastening force of the fixing device 7, 7 ', each of the yokes 4 of the stones 2 comprises at least one groove 10. Because the base 9, 9' corresponds to perfectly to the shape of the cylinder head 4 of the stones 2, it is understood that the base 9, 9 'then forms hooks which hold each stone 2 more firmly by its cylinder head 4. Preferably, each stone 2 has two grooves 10 on two opposite sides However, each groove may also form a circumferential groove on each yoke 4 to maximize the mechanical fastening force of the fastener 7, 7 '.

According to another alternative of the invention, the single base 9, 9 'can also directly form the body of the final product which avoids having to report the decoration piece 1,3, 5 on another body.

The invention process 21 will now be explained in relation to FIGS. 1 to 9 and 13. In a first step 23, the method 21 is to provide stones 2 whose 6 laminate allow their mounting edge to edge to, for example, to obtain the alternative embodiments of FIGS. 10, 11 and 12, that is to say a homogeneous plane of stones 2.

In a second step 25, the stones 2 are secured one after the other on a support 12. Preferably, the method 21 comprising an electroplating step 29, the support 12 comprises an electrically insulating material such as polypropylene or all Another material compatible with the method 21. In addition, as best seen in FIG. 2, the face 15 where are reported stones 2 must have a good flatness. Preferably, each stone 2 is secured to the face 15 of the support 12 by gluing its table 8 by means of a glue of the cyanoacrylate type. Of course, other types of joining compatible with the rest of the process steps 21 or even other types of glue are conceivable.

Figs. 3 and 4 show a focused magnification on the laminates 6 of the stones 2 according to two alternatives of the invention explained above. It is thus immediately understood that the size accuracy of the 6 or rondist layers of the stones 2 is of great importance. Indeed, according to the invention the laminates 6 must be mounted edge to edge to limit the size of the interstices between the stones 2.

Thus, as explained above, in the case where it is not desired to improve the fastening force of the fixing device 7, 7 ', the stones 2 do not have grooves 10 and are brought against each other. others at their flaps 6 as illustrated in FIGS. 1 and 4. In this case, it is understood that only the chemical interactions between the materials ensure the fixing of the stones.

In the case where it is desired to improve the fastening force of the fastening device 7, 7 ', an intermediate step 24 between the step 23 and the securing step 25 is necessary. Step 24 shown in broken lines in FIG. 13 is intended to engrave at least one groove 10 in at least a portion of the yokes 4 of the stones 2. Thus, during the step of joining, the stones 2 are brought against each other at their level 6 as illustrated in figs. 1 and 5. In the embodiment of FIG. 5, it can be seen that the grooves 10 of two stones 2 are vis-à-vis.

In the example illustrated in FIG. 1, it can be seen that the support 12 may also include a jig 14 of dedicated shape to help start the stone plane 2. This template 14 can thus form a square as in FIG. 1 to form a symmetrical decoration piece 1 or a curved body to form a decoration piece 3 in wave. At the end of step 25, as shown in FIG. 1, we thus obtain a block of stones 2 secured by their table 8 on the face 15 of the support 12.

The method 21 continues with a step 27 for forming the first layer 11, 11 'as illustrated in FIG. 5. As explained above, the first layer 11, 11 'adheres to the yokes 4 of the stones 2 to serve, on one side, of the germination surface of the second layer 13, 13' and, on the other side, reflection layer. Thus, according to the embodiment chosen, the first layer 11, 11 'can cover each yoke 4 partially or totally on all or part of the yokes 4. This means that the embodiments of FIGS. 8 and 9 can also be combined to adapt the aesthetics of the decoration piece 1,3,5.

Indeed, advantageously according to the invention, only the parts which will be covered with the first layer 11, 11 'during step 27, comprise the sole base 9, 9' in the end. It is therefore understandable that the aesthetic appearance diversity of the decoration piece 1,3,5 does not make the manufacturing process 21 more difficult than the existing manual processes.

Step 27 may be performed according to several different methods. However, physical vapor deposition or chemical metallization deposition is preferred. In the case of physical vapor deposition, a bonding layer, interposed between the stone surface and the first layer 11, 11 'of a few nanometers, for example chromium or titanium, may be used to improve the adherence while remaining substantially invisible. However, a coating made electrically conductive coating by means of, for example, silver powder (grains between 1 and 10 microns) in addition to or in replacement of the above deposits is also possible. Indeed, if the precision of the laminate 6 is not perfectly controlled, it may be preferable to deposit a conductive varnish at the level of the layers 6 to ensure homogeneous growth in the next step 29.

According to another alternative explained above, step 27 may be followed by step 28 in dashed lines and then step 29 or directly from step 29. Thus, if the decoration piece n ' is not intended to be reported on another element, the method 21 can directly go to step 29 to form a single base 9, 9 'which will form the raw body of the final element by electrically connecting the layer 11, 11 .

However, preferably, a frame 16 is reported in step 28 to circumscribe the electrolytic deposition of step 29 above said cylinder head 2. Obviously, the frame 16 can also be used to form a single base 9, 9 'which will form a blank of the final element. If the frame 16 is used, that is to say if the step 28 is performed, the frame 16 will preferably comprise an electrically conductive track 17 for connecting the first layer 11, 11 '. In addition, the walls of the frame 16 surrounding the stones 2 are preferably electrically conductive.

The method 21 is continued by the step 29 of electroplating the second layer 13, 13 'from the first layer 11, 11' in order to finish the production of the single base 9, 9 'as illustrated in FIG. fig. 7. Finally, in a last step 31 of the method 21, the decoration piece 1, 3, 5 thus formed is separated from the support 12 and, if it is used, from the frame 16.

Of course, between steps 29 and 31 or, optionally, after step 31, a machining and / or polishing step 30 may be performed in order to modify the shape of the single base 9, 9 ', either to form the final element, or to adapt the shape to be reported to the final element.

On reading the explanations above, it is understood that the method 21 allows a wide variety of decorative pieces such as, for example, those of FIGS. 10 to 12 having paved geometries with various stone shapes without its implementation is more difficult which allows its application to all kinds of precious stones, semi-precious or synthetic cheaply.

In addition, the yokes 4 may be all or partially perforated or not without retouching steps are made necessary. It is also remarkable, according to the invention, that the stones 2 may be more or less high and / or of different shapes and / or distributed more or less symmetrically and that the heights, angles and depths of the grooves 10 are more or smaller, without the complexity of the process 21 being increased. Finally, according to the invention, the manufacturing conditions are improved by working directly by the breech 4 stones 2 while current methods do not allow and require continually return the book to verify the proper assembly in the stones 2.

This feature is particularly advantageous in after-sales operations requiring the replacement of a single stone or part of the stones. Thus, by the current mechanical methods of invisible seam, remove a stone is very difficult and induces a great risk of scratching, cracking or crimping stones close to the one to be replaced. On the contrary, advantageously according to the invention, it is possible to spare the adjacent stones, remove, for example chemically, the metal of the stone to be removed and then pick a new stone in place of the old and reform the entirety of the unique base by significantly reducing the risk of scratching, cracking or creasing of other pavement stones.

Claims (14)

The only restriction of the method 21 relates to the respect of the heights of 6 or rondiste layers and, therefore, incidentally, the crowns of the stones 2 to prevent the formation of interstices between the stones 2 during step 25. Finally, another advantage of the manufacturing method 21 according to the invention relates to saving time and, incidentally, cost. Indeed, not only the manufacturing method 21 is much shorter compared to a manual embodiment but, in addition, the steps 27 and / or 29 of several decoration pieces 1,3, 5 can be made at the same time from several supports 12 or from a single support 12. Of course, the present invention is not limited to the illustrated example but is susceptible of various variations and modifications that will occur to those skilled in the art . In particular, other embodiments than those shown in FIGS. 10 to 12 are possible. In addition, it is perfectly conceivable that the face 15 of the support 12 is not flat to allow the realization of a decoration piece 1,3, 5 whose tables 8 stones 2 are not coplanar. claims 1. Decoration piece (1,3,5) comprising several stones (2) and a fixing device (7, 7 ') of the stones (2) relative to each other, characterized in that the device fastening means (7, 7 ') comprises a single base (9, 9') for attaching all the stones (2) to each other by their yoke (4) and in that the layers (6) of stones (2) are mounted edge to edge relative to each other so that said single base is masked. 2. Part (1, 3, 5) according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the single base (9) covers all of the yokes (4) of said stones. 3. Part (1, 3, 5) according to claim 1, characterized in that the single base (9 ') leaves uncovered part of the yoke (4) of said stones. 4. Part (1, 3, 5) according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fixing device (7, 7 ') comprises at least one groove (10) made in at least one of the stones (2) at their yoke (4) so that the single base (9, 9 '), of at least partially corresponding shape to each yoke (4), forms at least one hook for each of said at least one of the stones (2). 5. Part (1, 3, 5) according to the preceding claim, characterized in that said at least one groove (10) forms two grooves in two faces of the yoke (4). 6. Part (1, 3, 5) according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the single base (9, 9 ') comprises at least one reflection layer (11, 11') deposited on the cylinder heads (4 ). 7. Part (1,3,5) according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the single base (9, 9 ') comprises a second layer (13, 13') electrodeposited from said at least one reflection layer so to improve the strength of the decoration piece (1,3,5). 8. Part (1, 3, 5) according to claim 6 or 7, characterized in that the single base (9, 9 ') comprises pure silver and a protective layer covering the silver to prevent its oxidation tarnishing. 9. Timepiece, characterized in that it comprises, reported, at least one decoration piece (1, 3, 5) according to one of the preceding claims. 10. Jewelery article or jewelery, characterized in that it comprises, reported, at least one decoration piece (1,3, 5) according to one of claims 1 to 8. 11. A method of manufacturing (21) a decorative piece (1, 3, 5), characterized in that it comprises the following steps: a) to provide (23) several stones (2); b) securing (25) the table (8) of each stone (2) against a support (12), the layers (6) of the stones (2) being mounted edge to edge relative to each other to form a block stones (2); c) depositing (27) a first electrically conductive layer (11, 11 ') on at least a portion of the yoke of said stones; d) electroplating (29) a second layer (13, 13 ') from said electrically conductive layer to form a single base (9, 9'); e) removing (31) the decoration piece (1,3, 5) thus formed by disconnecting each of said tables relative to the support (12). 12. Method (21) according to the preceding claim, characterized in that it comprises, between step a) and step b), the following step: f) etching (24) at least one groove (10) in yokes (4) of said stones so that the single base (9, 9 ') electrodeposited during step d) fills each of said at least one groove (10) forming a fixing hook. 13. Method (21) according to claim 11 or 12, characterized in that the support (12) comprises an electrically insulating material. 14. Method (21) according to one of claims 11 to 13, characterized in that it comprises, between step c) and step d), the following step: g) forming (28) a frame (16) around said pad to circumscribe the electrodeposition of step d) above said stone yokes (2).