CH651471A5 - HUMECTING COMPOSITION BASED ON SODIUM LACTATE, GLYCERINE, UREA AND NATIVE COLLAGEN. - Google Patents

Description

The present invention relates to a new humectant composition usable in cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions.

It is common practice to use humectants in cosmetics, that is to say hygroscopic substances making it possible to absorb moisture from the ambient air and to maintain the water content of the compositions so that the latter do not tend to dry out. Furthermore, the hygroscopic properties of the humectant film when it is applied to the skin constitute an important factor making it possible to favorably influence the suppleness and the feel of the skin.

Among the many humectants most commonly used include sodium salts such as sodium lactate or sodium pyrrolidonecarboxylate, polyols such as glycerin, sorbito! and propylene glycol as well as other substances such as urea.

It has also been proposed to use mixtures of these substances, although a particularly sensitive synergistic effect has not been observed in this case.

Among these mixtures, the combination of pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid or one of its hygroscopic salts, of a salt of C2-C5 α-hydroxycarboxylic acid, has been particularly described in British Patent No. 1471679, and in particular the sodium salt of glycolic or lactic acid, and of a modified collagen polypeptide substance.

According to this patent, the expression “modified collagen polypeptide substance” should be understood to mean a polypeptide substance having amino groups quaternized with a halide ion and having terminal carboxy groups esterified by a C3-CI2 amino alcohol or a polypeptide substance having amino groups. terminal reacted with a saturated or unsaturated fatty acid and having terminal carboxy groups reacted with a polyol, the polypeptide substance in each case being derived from collagen and having an average molecular weight corresponding to a di-, tri- or tetrapeptide.

According to this patent, the proportions of the different ingredients can vary in a weight ratio from 0.75 to 1.25 for pyr-rolidonecarboxylic acid or its hygroscopic salt, from 0.75 to 1.25 for the salt d α-hydroxycarboxylic acid in CrC5, and from 3.75 to 6.25 for the polypeptide derivative of modified collagen.

The present invention also relates to a particular combination of humectants making it possible to confer excellent preservation of the compositions and to confer, moreover, softening and softening properties of the skin.

The subject of the present invention is a humectant composition containing in aqueous solution:

- sodium lactate in a proportion of 3 to 8%,

- glycerin in a proportion of 12 to 24%,

- urea in a proportion of 30 to 42%, and

- native collagen in a proportion of less than 0.5% by weight.

The various tests carried out have made it possible to show that only this association in the proportions mentioned above was capable of imparting the desired properties.

In particular, it turned out that the presence of native collagen was essential in order to obtain good humectant power.

Preferably, the humectant composition according to the invention contains in aqueous solution:

- from 4 to 7% by weight of sodium lactate,

- from 15.5 to 21% by weight of glycerin,

- from 33.5 to 39% by weight of urea, and

- from 0.05 to 0.2% by weight of native collagen.

By native collagen is meant a collagen having the following characteristics:

It consists of a triple helix comprising three helical chains a, ß and y whose respective molecular weights are 100,000, 200,000 and 300,000.

The chain a consists of 2 subunits ai and a2, each with a molecular mass of 100,000, and slightly differentiating between them by the nature of the amino acids which constitute them.

The chain ß consists of two subunits ßn, which consists of 2 subunits a, and ß12, which consists of a subunit and] and of a subunit a2.

Each of the ßu and ßI2 subunits has a molecular weight of 200,000.

On the other hand, at the end of each helix, depending on the mode of extraction of the collagen, there may or may not be a linear polypeptide chain, called a telopeptide, of length approximately 50 Å.

The collagen used in the compositions according to the invention may or may not have telopeptides.

This native collagen is completely different from the modified collagen polypeptide substance used in British Patent No. 1471679 by the fact that, according to the invention, it is native collagen cold extracted from the skin of young animals and more particularly the skin of young calves.

Due to the specific conditions of its extraction, this native collagen is therefore of unmodified structure and is not degraded.

The humectant composition according to the invention can be used in all compositions generally requiring the presence of a humectant either for good preservation of the compositions, or for improving the appearance or appearance of the skin.

Among the compositions in which the humectant composition according to the invention can be used, mention may in particular be made, without this list being limiting, of lotions, face care creams, body milks, milks or cleansing creams, sunscreen milks or creams, foundations, tinted creams, anti-wrinkle creams or for the eye area.

In general, a proportion of 5 to 60% by weight of the humectant composition according to the invention is used in order to obtain good results.

Likewise, the humectant composition according to the invention can be used in pharmaceutical or more particularly dermopharmaceutical compositions in the same proportions.

We will now give by way of illustration several examples of humectant compositions according to the invention, as well as several examples of cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions containing them.

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Example A

Sodium lactate (60% solution in water) 9 g

Glycerin 18.5 g

Urea 36 g

Collagen (0.3% solution in water) 36.5 g

Example B

Sodium lactate (60% solution in water) 10 g

Glycerin 17 g

Urea 35 g

Collagen (0.3% solution in water) 38 g

Example C

Sodium lactate (60% solution in water) 8 g

Glycerin 20 g

Urea 39 g

Collagen (0.3% solution in water) 33 g

Example D

Sodium lactate (60% solution in water) 8 g

Glycerin 16 g

Urea 36 g

Collagen (0.3% solution in water) 40 g

Examples of compositions

Example 1

A face cream is prepared according to the invention in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion by mixing the following ingredients:

Lanolic acid 13.5 g

Arginine 1.5 g

Hydrogenated lanolin 15.0 g

Paraffin oil . 35.0 g

Humectant composition according to Example A 22 g

Preservative 0.15 g

Perfume 0.10 g

Water q.s.p. 100g

Example 2

A face cream is prepared according to the invention in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion by mixing the following ingredients:

Saturated fatty acid triglycerides sold under the name Miglyol 812 by the company Dynamit

Nobel

4.0g

Cetyl alcohol

0.5 g

Oleic acid decylester

5.0 g

Vaseline oil

13.0 g

Polyglycolic ether of oxyethylenated cetyl alcohol using

10 mol of ethylene oxide

4.0g

Polyethylene powder

4.0g

Humectant composition according to Example A

27.5g

Water H- preservative q.s.p.

100g

Example 3

A cleansing milk is prepared according to the invention by mixing the following ingredients:

Paraffin oil

10.0 g

Polyoxyethylenated stearyl ether using 10 mol

ethylene oxide

2.0 g

Polyoxyethylenated cetyl ether using 10 mol of oxide

ethylene

2.0 g

Glycerin monostearate

4.0g

Cetyl alcohol

1.0 g

Stearyl alcohol 1.0 g

Hydroxypropylmethylcellulose 0.3 g 2 Cocoyl-1 (sodium carboxymethyl) -l- [2- (sodium carboxy-methoxyl) ethyl] -2-imidazoliniumhydroxide, product sold under the name Miranol C2M 2.0 g p-Methyl hydroxybenzoate 0 , 2 g

Kaolinite clay 5.0 g

Humectant composition according to Example B 17 g

Perfume 0.05 g

Water q.s.p. 100g

Example 4

A body milk is prepared by mixing the following ingredients:

Isopropyl palmitate 5.0 g

Paraffin oil 10.0 g Mixture of lanolin alcohols and sterols, product sold under the name Amerchol L 101 by the company American

Cholesterol products 0.3 g

Stearic acid 1.4 g

Self-emulsifiable glycerol monostearate 2.0 g

Cetyl alcohol 0.2 g

Triethanolamine 0.75 g

Hydroxymethylcellulose 0.5 g

Propylene glycol 2.0 g methyl p-Hydroxybenzoate 0.35 g

Humectant composition according to Example B 35 g

Perfume 0.1 g

Water q.s.p. 100g

Example 5

A sunscreen is prepared according to the invention by mixing the following ingredients:

Magnesium lanolate 2.85 g

Lanolin alcohol 6.65 g

Isopropyl palmitate 22.20 g

Paraffin oil 26.00 g

Ozokerite 2.00 g

Humectant composition according to Example D 22 g Sunscreen filter sold under the name Parsol Ultra by the company Givaudan 5.00 g

Water 4- preservative q.s.p. 100g

Example 6

A water-in-oil sunscreen is prepared according to the invention by mixing the following ingredients:

Self-emulsifying glycerol monostearate 5.00 g

Isopropyl myristate 16.00 g

Perhydrosqualene 10.00 g methyl p-Hydroxybenzoate 0.3 g

Hydroxymethylcellulose 0.5 g

2-Ethoxyethyl p-methoxyGinnamate 5.0 g

Humectant composition according to Example C 26 g

Perfume 0.1 g

Water q.s.p. 100g

Example 7

A foundation is prepared according to the invention in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion by mixing the following ingredients:

Isopropyl lanolate 4.0 g

Stearic acid 2.6 g

Self-emulsifiable glycerol stearate 5.0 g

Paraffin oil 10.0 g

Vaseline 10.0 g

Triethanolamine 1.2 g

Sodium lauryl sulfate 1.1g

Bentonite 2.5 g

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Humectant composition according to example A 16 g Mixture of lanolin alcohols and sterols, sold under the

Red iron oxide 0.7 g designation of Amerchol L 101 by the company American

Iron oxide yellow 0.9 g Cholesterol Products 3.0 g

Titanium oxide 2.0 g Perhydrosqualene 10.0 g

Perfume 0.1 g 5 Isopropyl palmitate 1.0 g

Water + preservative q.s.p. 100 g Cetyl alcohol 2.0 g

Soy lecithin 0.5 g

Hydroxymethylcellulose 0.5 g

Example 8 Placental extracts 2.0 g

According to the invention, an eye contour cream is prepared. 10 Amnioseric extracts 1.0 g in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion by carrying out the humectant composition according to Example B 28 g mixture of the following ingredients : Perfume 0.5 g

Self-emulsifiable glycerol monostearate 3.0 g Water + preservative q.s.p. 100g

R

Claims (3)

651471 1. Humectant composition, characterized in that it contains in aqueous solution: - sodium lactate in a proportion of 3 to 8%, - glycerin in a proportion of 12 to 24%, - urea in a proportion of 30 to 42%, and - Native collagen, in a proportion of less than 0.5%, said percentages being expressed relative to the total weight of the humectant composition. 2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it contains in aqueous solution: - from 4 to 7% by weight of sodium lactate, - from 15.5 to 21% by weight of glycerin, - from 33.5 to 39% by weight of urea, and - from 0.05 to 0.2% by weight of native collagen. 2 3. Cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition, characterized in that it contains a humectant composition according to one of claims 1 or 2, in a proportion of 5 to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.