CA2148030A1 - Exfoliating product - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to an exfoliator for the lips in the form of a solid stick comprising an anhydrous base material and 2% to 50% by weight of an exfoliating material, and to a process of manufacturing the exfoliator comprising forming a mix of the ingredients by heating and agitating until a smooth homogenous mix is formed, allowing cooling the mix to a solid, subjecting the solid to a microwave process, reheating the mix to a pouring temperature and pouring the mix into a mould to form the final product.

Description

An Exfoliating Product FIELD OF THE INVENTION
This invention relates to an exfoliating product for use on the human body, particularly but not exclusively an exfoliating product for use on the lips, and to a process for manufacturing the product.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
Exfoliating products for exfoliating the skin for example, are well known. The known forms of exfoliator are in the form of a cream or liquid which contains in suspension an exfoliating material in the form of an abrasive. The cream or liquid is rubbed onto the part of the body which it is desired to exfoliate and the action of rubbing the product over the skin provides a scrubbing action which removes dead skin cells and loose flaky particles of skin. The product is then removed by washing and the combination of the washing action and the abrasive nature of the exfoliating product dries the skin. This means that it is then necessary to use a moisturising cream or similar product to prevent the skin from remaining too dry.
If the skin remains too dry it will exacerbate the problem of loose flaky patches of skin for which the exfoliator was used in the first place, thus, compounding the problem.
The known exfoliating creams must be used with care since they can be too abrasive if used on sensitive parts of the skin such as the lips.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
The present invention seeks to provide an exfoliating product for use on such sensitive areas as the lips and which does not subsequently require the use of a moisturising cream to compensate for the natural oils removed by the exfoliating action.
According to the present invention there is provided a process of manufacturing an exfoliator for the lips in the form of a solid stick comprising an anhydrous base material and 2% to 50% by weight of an exfoliating material, the process comprising forming a mix of the ingredients by heating and agitating until a smooth homogenous mix is formed, allowing cooling the mix to a solid, subjecting the solid to a microwave process, reheating the mix to a pouring temperature and pouring the mix into a mould to form the final product.
Preferably, the process includes adding an emollient to the base material. The exfoliating material may be selected from plant material, synthetic polymers or mineral complexes, and/or may comprise a particulate material and has a particle size of 10-140 mesh. The exfoliating material may include a natural nut shell in particulate form.
The base material preferably includes wax-like materials chosen from at least one of plant waxes, amorphous hydrocarbon waxes, synthetic waxes, silicone waxes, petroleum-based waxes, beeswax, plant butters, hydrogenated oils and plant oils, fatty esters including lanolin derivatives, and fatty alcohols including lanolin derivatives. The base material may also include at least one of the following:- plant oils, alphatic esters, alphatic alcohols, petrolatum, hydrocarbon oils, silicone fluids, polymers of iso and normal butenes and sorbitol esters. The base material may include products from the following group of materials, namely, emollient and glossing material chosen from plant oils, fatty esters including lanolin derivatives, alphatic esters, fatty alcohols including lanolin derivatives, alphatic alcohols, petrolatum, hydrocarbon oils, silicone derivatives, hydrocarbon oils, polymers of iso and normal butenes, hydrogenated oils and plant oils, sorbitol esters and mixtures thereof, and the products of said group may comprise from 15% to 80% by weight of the exfoliator.
The process may also include adding one or more of the following products to the ingredients, namely, water, dyestuff, pigments, mineral complexes, W absorbers, anti-oxidants, fragrance, preservatives, humectants, vitamins,plant extracts, glycols, polyethylene glycol esters, polyethylene glycols, film forming polymers, solvents and skin conditioning agents.
According to a preferred form of the process of the present invention there is provided a process for manufacturing an exfoliator material for use on the lips including the steps of:
1. preparing a dispersion of pigments in castor oil 2. preparing a moisturising mix of moisturising ingredients by heating the mix to 80-85C and mixing until homogeneity is achieved, 3. preparing an emollient mix comprising wax or wax-like and oily materials and heating the mix to 80-85C and mixing or agitating until the mix is homogenised, 4. adding said dispersion of pigments to the emollient mix, 5. adding the moisturising mix to the emollient mix, and mixing or agitating until the resultant mix is fully homogenised, 6. cooling the resultant mix slowly to 60-65C

7. add exfoliating material to said resultant mix and mix until fully homogenised, 8. store in the mix in solid blocks by pouring into vessels at 59-61C max and allowing to cool, 9. microwave portions to a temperature of 62-65C

10. stir at 62-65C to ensure full homogenisation, and pour into moulds to form the final product, 11. assemble the final product to a holder.
The invention also provides a product formed by the process.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
Preferred embodiments of lip exfoliators in accordance with the present invention and a process for making such exfoliators will now be described by way of example.
A lip exfoliator is in the form of a solid stick similar to a conventional lipstick and is dispensed in a 21480~0 cylindrical holder or dispenser similar to a conventional lipstick with a rotable section on a screw thread by which the solid stick can be caused to project out of an open end of the holder for use. A cap is provided to close the open end.
The stick is a moulded wax/oil based emulsion stick containing an evenly distributed granular material such as granulated walnut shell. The details of the composition are set out in the following table which lists the ingredients, their prime function, and their percentage by weight of the total contents of the stick.

MATERIAL FUNCTION % W/W
Octyldodecanol Emollient 36.79 Ozokerite Contributes to solid structure 13.00 Water Carrier for moisturising agent 8.50 Walnut Shell Powder Skin exfoliator/abrasive 10.00 Beeswax Contributes to solid structure 9.00 Carnauba Contributes to solid structure 6.00 Castor Oil Pigment carrier and emollient 6.00 Sorbitan fatty esters Part of emulsifying system 3.00 Flavour/Fragrance Flavour/fragrance 1.00 Hydrogenated Castor Oils Part of emulsifying system 4.00 Octyl Methoxycinnamate W absorber 0.50 Tocopherol Anti-oxidant 0.10 Sodium Hyaluronate Moisturising agent 0.01 Propylparaben Preservative 0.10 Pigments Colourant 2.00 It will be understood that the proportions of the individual ingredients may be changed, this table being one preferred example only A preferred method of manufacture of the product will now be described.
Phase 1 Preparation of Pigment Dispersions.
The pigments are dispersed in Castor Oil using a "Bead"
mill.
Phase 2 Preparation of Moisturising Complex.
(a) To a suitable stainless steel vessel fitted with an agitator, the Sodium Hyaluronate is added to part of the water (to yield a 1% solution) and mixed until the Sodium Hyaluronate is completely hydrated and the mix is clear and homogenous.
(b) To a suitable steam jacketed/heated vessel fitted with an agitator is added to the remaining water, Sorbitan Fatty Esters and Hydrogenated Castor Oils. The mix is heated to 80-85C with stirring (when sufficiently molten). Whilst maintaining the temperature at 80-85C, the Sodium Hyaluronate solution (2a) is added and stirring is continued until mixture is smooth and homogenous.
Phase 3 Preparation of completed bulk.
(a) To the main vessel (steam jacketed/heated and equipped with a suitable speed adjustable propeller agitator), the following materials are added in sequence:- Carnauba, Beeswax, Octyldodecanol, Ozokerite, Tocopherol, Octyl Methoxycinnamate, and Propylparaben. This mixture is heated with agitation (when sufficiently molten) to 80-85C and further mixed until homogenous.
(b) To the molten mix at 80-85C are added the pigment dispersions (Phase 1) in Castor Oil with continuing agitation and maintaining temperature at 80-85C.
(c) The Moisturising Complex (Phase 2) is then added to the molten mix at 80-85C with continuing agitation and maintaining temperature at 80-85C. Note that aeration of bulk must be avoided.
(d) When mix is totally homogenous, slow cooling is commenced with slow agitation until bulk reaches 60-65C whilst avoiding solidification of mix on the sides of the vessel.
(e) To the mix at 60-65C, the following materials are added in sequence with continuing agitation:- Flavour, and Walnut Shell Powder; the mix is further agitated whilst maintaining temperature at 60-65C until homogenous. The mix is tested at this stage for shade, odour and texture approval.
f) This finished bulk is emptied (dropped) from the vessel at 59-61C 61C maximum drop temperature - higher drop temperatures would tend to result in sedimentation of exfoliating material/granules.
Actual Bulk Specifications Melting Point (slip point) 58-66C
Water Content (% w/w) 8-9%
Granular content (dry % w/w) 9-10%

The product may then be stored in solid form.
(1) Pre-melt Procedure (a) Quantities of the solid stored bulk are placed in suitable microwave compatible containers and set to microwave for approximately 20-25 minutes, the approximate time for 4 x 1 kg of bulk to reach 62-65C. Pre-melting using the microwave technique minimises fragrances and water loss and colour deterioration.
(b) The microwaved bulk is then transferred to a suitable thermostatically controlled stainless steel vessel (set at 62-65C) fitted with a variable speed agitator and base outlet.
The bulk is continuously agitated at 62-65C, whilst avoiding aeration and setting of exfoliation granules.
(2) Final product moulding procedure (a) The final product in formed in a two-part "split"
mould in which 100 sticks, referred as bullets, are formed.
The mould is firstly dissembled, and cleaned, then sprayed with volatile silicone, which forms a mould release agent. The mould is re-assembled and warmed to 50-55C using a lamp or oven. The pre-warming of the moulds avoids "flow lines" in finished bullets.
(b) The warmed mould is placed centrally beneath the outlet of the thermostatically controlled vessel. The outlet is opened and molten bulk allowed to flow into the mould until full.
(c) The filled mould is then placed on a freezer table/bed and allowed to cool for approximately 5 minutes before excess bulk is scraped from the top of the mould.
(d) The filled mould is allowed to cool for a further 10-15 minutes before it is dissembled and the resulting moulded "bullets" are individually removed from each "split" layer.
(e) One "bullet" from each mould is cut vertically in half to observe and ensure correct distribution of exfoliating granules. If not to standard, moulding conditions are re-~148030 established and remaining bullets from that mould are set asidefor re-moulding.
Moulded stick Specification Breaking Point (Chatillon) 7S0 - 1078 Each split moulded bullet is placed in the component mechanism ensuring that the face slope of the bullet aligns with that of the component and that the bullet is pushed fully home and upright in the godet within the mechanism. The component cap is then pushed fully home over the mechanism.
The above assembly is then base labelled, batch coded and "sleeved" prior to passing through a heat tunnel. The heat tunnel shrinks the perforated "sleeve" around the component for the purpose of hygiene sealing.

Claims (12)

1. A process of manufacturing an exfoliator for the lips in the form of a solid stick comprising an anhydrous base material and 2% to 50% by weight of an exfoliating material, the process comprising forming a mix of the ingredients by heating and agitating until a smooth homogenous mix is formed, allowing cooling the mix to a solid, subjecting the solid to a microwave process, reheating the mix to a pouring temperature and pouring the mix into a mould to form the final product.

2. A process according to claim 1, including adding an emollient to the base material.

3. A process according to claim 1, wherein the exfoliating material is selected from plant material, synthetic polymers or mineral complexes.

4. A process according to claim 1 wherein the exfoliating material comprises a particulate material and has a particle size of 10-140 mesh.

5. A process according to claim 1, wherein the exfoliating material includes a natural nut shell in particulate form.

6. A process according to claim 1, wherein the base material includes wax-like materials chosen from at least one of plant waxes, amorphous hydrocarbon waxes, synthetic waxes, silicone waxes, petroleum-based waxes, beeswax, plant butters, hydrogenated oils and plant oils, fatty esters including lanolin derivatives, and fatty alcohols including lanolin derivatives.

7. A process according to claim 6, wherein the base material also includes at least one of the following:- plant oils, alphatic esters, alphatic alcohols, petrolatum, hydrocarbon oils, silicone fluids, polymers of iso and normal butenes and sorbitol esters.

8. A process according to claim 6, wherein the base material includes products from the following group of materials, namely, emollient and glossing material chosen from plant oils, fatty esters including lanolin derivatives, alphatic esters, fatty alcohols including lanolin derivatives, alphatic alcohols, petrolatum, hydrocarbon oils, silicone derivatives, hydrocarbon oils, polymers of iso and normal butenes, hydrogenated oils and plant oils, sorbitol esters and mixtures thereof.

9. A process according to claim 8, wherein products of said group comprise from 15% to 80% by weight of the exfoliator.

10. A process according to claim 1, including adding one or more of the following products to the ingredients, namely, water, dyestuff, pigments, mineral complexes, UV absorbers, anti-oxidants, fragrance, preservatives, humectants, vitamins, plant extracts, glycols, polyethylene glycol esters, polyethylene glycols, film forming polymers, solvents and skin conditioning agents.

11. A process for manufacturing an exfoliator material for use on the lips including the steps of:
1. preparing a dispersion of pigments in castor oil 2. preparing a moisturising mix of moisturising ingredients by heating the mix to 80-85°C and mixing until homogeneity is achieved, 3. preparing an emollient mix comprising wax or wax-like and oily materials and heating the mix to 80-85°C and mixing or agitating until the mix is homogenised, 4. adding said dispersion of pigments to the emollient mix, 5. adding the moisturising mix to the emollient mix, and mixing or agitating until the resultant mix is fully homogenised, 6. cooling the resultant mix slowly to 60-65°C

7. add exfoliating material to said resultant mix and mix until fully homogenised, 8. store the mix in solid blocks by pouring into vessels at 59-61°C max and allowing to cool, 9. microwave the blocks to a temperature of 62-65°C
10. stir at 62-65°C to ensure full homogenisation, and pour into moulds to form the final product, 11. assemble the final product to a holder.

12. An exfoliator produced by the process claimed in any one of claims 1 to 11.