US2873229A - Three-phase lipstick composition - Google Patents

Description

THREE PHASE LRPSTICK COMlvJSITlQN No Drawing. Application July 15, 1954 Serial No. 443,716

Claims. ct. 1457-85 This invention relates to improvements in lipstick compositions in which the color is both a stain of and a pigmenulike material bonded to the lips, rather than only a coated stain of the lips or a colored coating on the lips- Important present consumer requirements for a lipstick are that it be non-injurious, tasteless and odorless, that it be easy to apply, that it color the lips uniformly to the desired intensity in a given shade, that it provide a smooth appearance and give a sensation of smoothness to the lips, that it provide some protection against weather conditions causing chapped lips but without appearing heavy or thick or giving a caked appearance to the lips, that it be hard enough, to use in stick form in .the usual containers without cracking or crumbling, and that it produce a good luster or sheen without giving a greasy appearance or sensation to touch. Other important requirements are that there be a minimumtransfer from the lips, of color of any kind to other objects such as textiles, glassware, etc. and to other persons, and that the color be sufficiently permanent to minimize the need for re-applying lipstick or to minimize the amount of lipstick required to repair damage to the coating by normal usage.

It is also desired that the lipstick itself have the same color shade and intensity throughout the Whole range of color used, as is produced on the lips, and regardless of the thickness of the coating applied, and that the color be uniform throughout the entire stick.

Two types of lipsticks are now in general use; namely, the conventional type and the so-called super stain type. The conventional type is characterized by its base of only waxes, oils and fats in which a coloring material is dispersed, thus providing .a composition which is a single phase product. The so-called super-stain lipstick differs from the conventional type by addition to the wax-oilfats base of a dye solvent which does not belong to the class of oils, fats or waxes, and which is usually a glycol or glycol derivative. Hence the super-stain lipstick might be considered a two phase product.

Both types of lipsticlts stain the lips and both types contain pigments uniformly and permanently dispersed throughout the base. .However, the staining of the lip tissues by the conventional lipstick is relatively weak and removalof even a small portion of the pigmented lipstick base mass undesirably affects the appearance of the made-up lips. In the so-called super-stain lipstick, staining of the lips is sufficiently intense so that much of the pigmented base may be blotted off while retaining good coloration of the lips, but the lips do not then have any coating Whatever.

However, each of the two types of lipstick has serious drawbacks. The conventional type leaves very undesirable stains on glasses, towels, cigarettes, etc., whereas, the so-called super-stain type has an unnatural trans parent lookafter blotting, and the very desirable wax film is lost. If the super-stain type is used without blotting it actually transfers more stain to other objects than the conventional lipstick.

.tes atent."

anjintense stain and retaining other color on the lips.

There is however no color transfer during useyto objects "or persons touched by the made-up lips providing the presentlipstickis applied as directed. This most desirablecffect is produced by the selection of color and a base which makes both the stain and pigment colors move through the base towards the lips where the pigments a-iebonded to the lip surface, thus leaving a film which has the desired appearance and coating qualities but'does not transfer a colored film to objects or persons touchedthcreby. The present lipstick comprises a base, a dye solvent or solvents and a carrier. Each of the three components or sub-combinations act as a separate phase even though the solvent and the carrier may be dispersed in the base. The present lipstick is accordingly a three phase product. p

7 'It is an object of the present invention to provide a lipstick in which a major portion of the color (which term herein includes both stain and pigment) is bonded directly'on or I to the skin of the lips and is covered by a coating which may, but is not required, to retain some of the color as a pigment or with pigment-like characteristics.

Y Another object of the invention is to provide a lipstick composition. in which the desired differences in color shades, color intensity and color depth may be obtained overthe entire range of color desired by users and in which each lipstick itself will have the same color throughout its entire mass, as is obtained in the lip stainng and coating produced by a given lipstick.

Another object of the invention is to provide a permanent type lipstick composition in which the materials are all non-injurious or safe, without taste or odor and without undesirable physiological etfects such as drying 1 the lips.

other liquid phases in the final product.

Anotherv object ofthe invention is to provide a lipstick o fmthe permanent type which is applicable in only slightly different manner and in substantially the same time as iipsjticks now in use and which will have the same general characteristics so far as the user is concerned, as are now found in both the conventional lipstick and the super-stain type of lipstick, while providing additional properties which are notpresent in the prior lipsticks.

A further object of the invention is to provide a lipcomposition including a dye or dyes of kinds and in forms both to stain the lip tissues, and to migrate to the lips for functioning as a pigment and in which some color may be kept dispersed throughout the lip coating for modifying the staining of and the pigment deposited on the lips. i

Generally, the present invention involves the use of a lipstick body or base sub-combination or sub-composition of fatty and waxy materials to which may be added materials having either or both blending and emollient qualities and materials improving the coating-forming characteristics of the lipstick, as the solid phase of the lipstick. Other compounds are used to prevent undesirable physiological. effects or avoid skin irritations in the use of the lipstick by some persons. The color is produced by acolor or coloring sub-combination or subcotnpositiori which is, however, a number of liquid phases completely distinct and separate from the solid base subcomposition. Oneof the coloring phases is continuous while the other phase is discontinuous but readily dispersed throughout the solid base phase and the: continuous liquid phase.

ilncidental and as flavoring or perfume and such ingredients may form Such ingreoptionalingredients may be used, such a toward the lips.

dients are in relatively small quantifies and do not alter the continuous and the discontinous character of the two major liquid phases of the color sub-combination.

D & C and F D & C approved or certified colors or dyes are used, which are soluble in water, glycerols and glycols. The dyes are not soluble in but can be dispersed in the solid base or body phase and in one of the liquid phases of the lipstick without change in or decomposition of the dyes. The dyes are at least partially dissolved in a hydrophilic material (strongly attracted to moisture of the lip tissues), and preferably one of the edible glycerols or glycols or their derivatives to form one major liquid phase in'the lipstick. Insofar as the dye or dyes are not dissolved in the glycerol or glycol solvent phase for staining the lips, another liquid phase acts as a carrier or vehicle for dispersing the undissolved portion of the dye throughout the lipstick body and provides a separate liquid phase, the carrier allowing the dye-pigment to migrate toward the lips. The mixture of dyes and the solvent phase and the carrier phase forms the essential portions of the color sub-combination and the several materials are proportioned to give any desired combined staining and pigmenting effect whereby a coating may be substantially translucent or may be opaque dependent on the proportion of dye which was not dissolved and which acts as a pigment, and also dependent on the amount of the pigment-dye carrier used.

The dye-solvent phase is water miscible but immiscible in or non-compatible with the waxes and other solid phase components and in the dye-pigment carrier. The carrier phase is not water-miscible and is also immiscible in the solids phase components. However, the carrier has sufiicient atfinity for skin to cause movement of the color The dye solvent or solvents and dyepigment carrier or carriers are sufiiciently thin or nonviscous to transfer the dye easily and to penetrate through the coating formed by the waxy base. Hence, some of the solvent and some of the carrier may be blotted off the applied coating by the use of absorbents such as paper tissues. Being water-soluble or Water-miscible, any solvent remaining or appearing on the coating after blotting, may be removed by the tongue without damaging the coating. Although the carrier is not water-miscible, it is noninjurious and any residues thereof after blotting of the applied coating may also be licked oif.

Incidental components or ingredients, such as flavorin'g, perfume or the like, are not necessary to or essential parts of the present composition and, when used, must be compatible with both the base sub-combination and the color sub-combination.

In the final lipstick, the waxes are in generally crystalline form with the other base solids dispersed throughout the base mass. The dye solution is to be uniformly distributed throughout the base or body mass as a discontinuous liquid phase. The undissolved dye is dispersed throughout its carrier or vehicle in small particles and functions as a pigment. The pigment-carrier forms a continuous phase throughout the lipstick and the dye solution is distributed throughout such continuous phase as separate and randomly spaced globules (a discontinuous phase).

Other liquid ingredients are either part of the continuous carrier-pigment phase or the discontinuous dyesolution phase depending on miscibility of such ingredients in either of such two liquid phases, which is the reason such ingredients must be compatible with both the base and color sub-combination.

The action of the present lipstick is believed to be a movement of both liquid phases of the color sub-combination toward the lips from all portionsof the applied lipstick coating. Such movement of the dye solution and the dye-pigment carrier brings both the dissolved dye and the dispersed pigment-dye (undissolved dye particles) through the solid phase toward the lips. The dye solution comes in contact with the lips where the dye and a portion of the water-miscible solvent is absorbed to stain the skin. The undissolved dye-pigments is deposited on the lips or in the coating formed by the base and near the lips. Unabsorbed solvent and substantially all of the carrier then move outwardly through the coating of base solids and may be removed from the outer surface of such coating.

In its presently preferred form, the lipstick base or body sub-composition or solid phase essentially consists of Waxes: Parts by weight Carnauba (melting temp. 83-91" C.) 3-6 Ozokerite (melting temp. 7680 C.) 6-12 Paraffin (melting temp. 55 C.) 15-30 Emollient (and blender): lanolin and lanolin absorption base.. 10

Vitamin F 14 Various other waxes may be used, such as beeswax (M. P. 62-70 C.), candelilla (M. P. 65-69 C.), ceresin (ozokerite-paraflin mixture, M. P. 54-77 C.), spermaceti (M. P. 41-49 C.), or the like which are physiologically inert and have suitable melting points when combined with the other materials of the present formulation.

The waxes in the base sub-combination are compounded for shaping the entire composition in stick form of sulficient hardness for manufacture and handling but easy to apply to the lips. Higher alcohols (which are solids) may also be used to secure greater uniformity of color throughout the entire lipstick for best appearance of an unused lipstick. Other materials may be used to provide some plasticizing effect in avoiding cracking of an applied coating. The lanolin or lanolin derivatives are emollients and also aid in making the lipstick more homogeneous and in the spreading of a coating of uniform thickness. They also have the properties of reducing or preventing sweating and bloom of the finished product and-of increasing sheen. A lubricant such as petroleum jelly or one of the other well known materials may be used to enhance the luster or sheen of the coating.

The present vitamin F is obtained from the germ of various cereal grains and is processed to be hydrophilic which causes the vitamin to move into contact with and to set on the lips with the dye rather than being only dispersed throughout the dye-solution or the pigmentcarrier and being finally blotted off the coating. The vitamin F eliminates any tendencies for some dye or combinations of dyes to dry and to irritate the lips of some persons. 7

It will be understood that the above waxy base or body sub-composition is water-repellent and that it has no qualities by which a water-soluble dye can be transferred to the lips.

The incidental ingredients for the lipstick may be:

Parts by weight Perfume 0.52%. Flavor (vanilliu) To flavor. Theperfume and flavor are preferably mixed with the base or body to avoid losses thereof, but may be mixed with the color sub-composition if so chosen as to be without efiect on the color sub-composition. I

A preferred composition of the lipstick coloring subcombination or sub-composition consists essentially of:

Parts by weight Dye (D & C and F D & C certified, water soluble or soluble in aqueous alkaline solution):

FD&Cred, No.3 6 D & C red, No. 27 3 D J C red, No. 21 3 D & C orange, No. 5 3 Solvent for the dye: proplylene glycol 15 Blender (for solid and liquid phases) and Pigment carrier: oleyl alcohol (solidification temp.

Ii .J The above dyes and other dye'ssuch as:

FD&Cred,No.1,2and4 F D & C orange, No.1 i F D & C yellow, No. 1, 2,5 and, 6 F D & C green, No. 1, 2 and 3 PD & C blue, No. 1 and 2 may be used to obtain exactly the desired shade for use by diiferent persons under different light conditions. The various dyes are blended to the desired shade as is well known by persons in the cosmetic industry. The quantity of the several dyes may be varied as desired but the total amount of the dyes is determined by the color intensity desired.

Other glycerols and glycols or combination thereof which are liquid at 35 C. or below, may be used as the dye solvent in the amount of 15 to 25 parts by Weight. it is, however, necessary to the present invention that the dye solvent or solvents be immiscible with but dispersable in the lipstick base or body and that they be hydrophilic. Other pigment carriers may be used such as the esters of polyhydric alcohols, e. g. propylene glycol monolaurate. The various carrier equivalents may not be solvent for or reactive with the dye, or miscible with the lipstick body phase or the dye solvent phase. The carrier must have some affinity for human skin, and both the dye-solvent and the pigment-carrier are preferably nonvolatile.

From the parts by weight of the ingredients set forth previously the proportional ranges of the composition in weight percent is a follows:

Percent Wax 14.1-26.1 Dye solvent 55.1-16.7 Dye 7.2-9.4 Carrier 70.6-47.8

When using lanolin and vitamin F the proportional ranges of the ingredients in the lipstick composition are as follows in weight percent:

In manufacture, certain precautions must be observed to obtain a successful product. The dye (or dye combination previously mixed to give the desired color shade and intensity) is mixed with and dissolved in the glycerol or glycol solvent and with or without agitation. The proportions of the dye or dyes and the solvent are such as to retain a portion of the dye in undissolved but very finely divided form, and the dye-solution and suspension is then uniformly distributed or dispersed in the carrier. The quantity of undissolved dye depends on whether the applied coating is to be only translucent or substantially opaque. The undissolved dyes act as pigments and, unless uniformly dispersed in the combined liquid phases, would be difficult to disperse in the solid base phase sufficiently for uniform coloring of the finished lipstick and of the applied coating.

The base Waxes, with such optional materials as blender, emollient, vitamin F and any other solid phase incidental base ingredients are melted and stirred, milled or otherwise treated to secure uniformity of mixture. The base composition is then cooled to a temperature not harmful to the dyes, the cooling being preferably done under such conditions as to prevent or minimize segregation of base ingredients.

The base and coloring sub-compositions are then mixed and cooled further, in such manner as to obtain a fairly uniform composition. The cooled mass is then ground in a roller mill or other suitable cosmetic mill to uni- 6 i formity of color and texture so that the color sub-cornposition is in fact uniformly dispersedin the base sub.- composition as far as possible by practical compounding conditions. When as completely uniform in all respects as seems practical, the mass has a melting point sufficiently high to withstand normal ambient temperatures and can be reheated without segregation. or separation of the ingredients and to a sufficiently liquid condition for pouring into molds.

No particular precautions, such as quickly chilling of the molds, are needed to avoid crystallization, segregation or separation of some of the materials or to avoid solidification of the mass in a granular form. Further, the sticks are readily released from the molds and have a smooth finish so that fire-polishing of the sticks is unnecessary. i p

A number of different certified consumer tests have been made by the research laboratory associated with the assignee of the present applicant, for comparative evaluation of a widely used lipstick of the super-stain type and a composition following the present formulation at least as to the base waxes and the color sub-composition, some of the optional materials being omitted in some samples. The test instructions imposed more severe conditions than the ordinary and usual conditions of lipstick use.

In applying the present lipstick, the best results are obtained if the lips are moistened before the lipstick is applied. Two or three minutes should elapse after applying the lipstick, whereupon the major portion of the pigment carrier and some of the dye-solvent will have risen through the waxy layer and can be blotted off. When the liquids have been blotted off, it is found that there is little or no color on the blotting tissue and that the apparent coloring of the coating is intense and uniforms For the preferred composition, the quantity of dye is so chosen that only a small quantity thereof is insoluble, wherefore the coating is substantially translucent and substantially all of the coloring is immediately on the lips. But larger quantitiesof dye may be used to obtain a colored and opaque coating, thus Combining. the coated appearance produced by a lipstick using only pigments and the effect of a lipstick giving only direct staining of the lips to avoid marked dilference in appearance if the coating becomes patchy or is removed in some areas.

A requirement of the dye or dye-.mixture used, is that the undissolved dye portion be in the form of independent and individual particles which do not adhere to one another or conglomerate into a pasty mass. Such paste would have undesirable tar-like characteristics preventing uniform coloring of the stick itself and of the applied coating and would prevent use of the stick itself as a guide in selection of the color desired by the user. The dyes should not be retained to any material extent in the base, if transfer or loss of the 0101' is to be avoided upon contact of the lips with other objects. The dyes should be substantially insoluble in the base and must be attracted to and must bond to the lips. Hence, water-soluble dyes are used of which the particles will not adhere to one another, will not dissolve in the base to any considerable extent and which will migrate toward and bond to the lips.

The present lipsticks are not affected by air and need not be kept tightly enclosed as is the case with certain Iipsticks of French manufacture. Usage of the present composition over the normal life of a lipstick, shows that no special precautions are necessary in use, which is contrary to directions for using the French lipsticks having a lip-staining action.

I claim:

1. A lipstick composition, consisting essentially of about 14.1% to 26.1% by weight of a wax selected from the group consisting of carnauba, ozokerite, paraffin, candelilla, ceresin, spermaceti, and mixtures thereof,

about 7.2% to 9.4% of a dye to provide the composition with color and pigment, about 8.1% to 16.7% of a hydrophilic dye solvent characterized by being a liquid below 35 C; and selected from the group consisting of glycerols and glycols, said dye solvent being present in a quantity less than required for solution of said dye, and 47.8% to 70.6% by weight of a thin liquid carrier immiscible with both said wax and said dye solvent and selected from the group consisting of oleyl alcohol and propylene glycol monolaurate and characterized by having sufficient fluidity to facilitate application of the lipstick to the skin and to bleed out of the wax base phase after application to the skin where the same can be wiped away and thereby leave a hard wax deposit on the skin.

2. A lipstick composition consisting essentially of about 14.1% to 26.1% by weight of a wax selected from the group consisting of carnauba, ozokerite, paraffin, candelilla, ceresin, spermaceti and mixtures thereof, about 7.2% to 9.4% of a dye to provide the composition with color and pigment, about 8.1% to 16.7% of a hydrophilic dye solvent characterized by being a liquid below 35 C. and selected from the group consisting of glycerols and glycols, about 4.8% to 5.8% of lanolin, about 0.5% to 2.3% of vitamin F, and 47.8% to 70.6% by weight of a thin liquid carrier immiscible with both said wax and said dye solvent and selected from the group consisting of oleyl alcohol and propylene glycol monolaurate and characterized by having sufficient fluidity to facilitate application of the lipstick to the skin 1 and to bleed out of the wax base phase after application to the skin Where the same can be wiped away and thereby leave a hard wax deposit on the sltin.

* 3. In combination with a two phase lipstick composition having a crystalline wax phase and a water soluble 5 hydrophilic dye solvent phase characterized by being a liquid below 35 C. and selected from the group consisting of glycols and glycerols, a third separate phase comprising a thin oily material immiscible with both the wax phase and said dyesolvent phase and being present in an amount of 47.8% to 70.6% by weight of the three phase composition, said oily material being selected from the group consisting of oleyl alcohol and propylene glycol monolaurate, and characterized by having sufiicient fluidity to facilitate application of lipstick to the skin and to bleed out of the wax phase after application to the skin where the same can be wiped away and thereby leave a hard wax deposit on the skin.

4. In combination with a two phase lipstick composition having a crystalline Wax phase selected from the group consisting of carnauba, ozokerite, parafiimcandelilla, ceresin, spermaceti and mixtures thereof and having a water soluble hydrophilic dye solvent phase characterized by being a liquid below 35 C. and selected from the group consisting of glycols and glycerols, a third separate phase comprising a thin oily material immiscible with both the wax phase and said dye solvent phase and being presentin an amount of 47.8% to 70.6% by weight of the three phase composition, said oily material being selected from the group consisting of oleyl alcohol and propylene glycol monolaurate.

i 5. In combination with a two phase lipstick composition having a crystalline wax phase and a water soluble hydrophilic dye solvent phase characterized by being a liquid below 35 C., and selected from the group consisting of glycols and glycerols, a third separate phase comprisinga thin oily material immiscible with both the wax phase and said dye solvent phase and being present in an amount of 47.8% to 70.6% by weight of the three phase composition, said oily material being selected from the group consisting of oleyl alcohol and propylene glycol monolaurate.

References Cited in the filc of this patent Hilfer: Drug and Cos. Ind, vol. 65, November 1949, pp. 518-519.

Incl. Chemist, August 1941, p. 205.

Thomssen: Mod. Cos., 3rd ed., 1947, pp. 297 and 307.

Am. Perfumer and Ess. Oil Rev., October 1952, p. 259.

Harry: Modern Cosmeticology, 3rd. ed., 1947, pp. 90-92.

Claims (1)

1. A LIPSTICK COMPOSITION, CONSISTING ESSENTIALLY OF ABOUT 14.1% TO 26.1% BY WEIGHT OF A WAX SELECTED FROM THE GROUP CONSISTING OF CARNAUBA, OZOKERITE, PARAFFIN, CANDELILLA, CERESIN, SPERMACETI, AND MIXTURES THEREOF, ABOUT 7.2% TO 9.4% OF DYE TO PROVIDE THE COMPOSITION WITH COLOR AND PIGMENT, ABOUT 8.1% TO 16.7% OF A HYDROPHILIC DYE SOLVENT CHARACTERIZED BY BEING A LIQUID BELOW 35$ C. AND SELECTED FROM THE GROUP CONSISTING OF GLYCEROLS AND GLYCOLS, SAID DYE SOLVENT BEING PRESENT IN A QUANTITY LESS THAN REQUIRED FOR SOLUTION OF SAID DYE, AND 47.8% TO 70.6% BY WEIGHT OF THIN LIQUID CARRIEER IMMISCIBLE WITH BOTH SAID WAX AND SAID DYE SOLVENT AND SELECTED FROM THE GROUP CONSISTING OF OLEYL ALCOHOL AND PROPYLENE GLYCOL MONOLAURATE AND CHARACTERIZED BY HAVING SUFFICIENT FLUIDITY TO FACILITATE APPLICATION OF THE LIPSTICK TO THE SKIN AND TO BLEED OUT OF THE WAX BASE PHASE AFTER APPLICATION TO THE SKIN WHERE THE SAME CAN BE WIPED AWAY AND THEREBY LEAVE A HARD WAX DEPOSIT ON THE SKIN.