CA1137415A - Aqueous acidic hair conditioning composition containing cationic polymer and amphoteric detergent - Google Patents

Aqueous acidic hair conditioning composition containing cationic polymer and amphoteric detergent

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Publication number
CA1137415A
CA1137415A CA000341701A CA341701A CA1137415A CA 1137415 A CA1137415 A CA 1137415A CA 000341701 A CA000341701 A CA 000341701A CA 341701 A CA341701 A CA 341701A CA 1137415 A CA1137415 A CA 1137415A
Authority
CA
Canada
Prior art keywords
hair
composition
composition according
softness
manageability
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired
Application number
CA000341701A
Other languages
French (fr)
Inventor
Leszek J. Wolfram
David Cohen
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Bristol Myers Squibb Co
Original Assignee
Bristol Myers Squibb Co
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Bristol Myers Squibb Co filed Critical Bristol Myers Squibb Co
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of CA1137415A publication Critical patent/CA1137415A/en
Expired legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/817Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by a single or double bond to nitrogen or by a heterocyclic ring containing nitrogen; Compositions or derivatives of such polymers, e.g. vinylimidazol, vinylcaprolactame, allylamines (Polyquaternium 6)
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/494Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with more than one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
    • A61K8/4946Imidazoles or their condensed derivatives, e.g. benzimidazoles
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/731Cellulose; Quaternized cellulose derivatives
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/10Preparations for permanently dyeing the hair
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12Preparations containing hair conditioners
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/54Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties
    • A61K2800/542Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge
    • A61K2800/5426Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge cationic

Abstract

ABSTRACT OF THE DISCLOSURE
An aqueous composition useful for conditioning hair consisting essentially of an aqueous carrier containing a cationic polymer and amphoteric surfactant in specified proportions and having a pH in the range of from about 1 to about 6.

Description

- 1~l37~1~5 HAIR CONDITIONING COMPOSITION CONTAINING
CATIONIC POLYMER AND AMPHOTERIC SURFACTANT AND
METHOD FOR USE
This invention relates to compositions that are useful in conditioning hair and to processes for condi-tioning hair that employ such compositions.
It is known in the prior art to treat hair with certain quaternary amine compounds for the purpose of conditioning hair i.e. to improve its combability, manage-ability, softness, etc. Although such prior art composi-tions have proven to be effective in varying degrees, one of the chief drawbacks has been the fact that the effect has not been long-lasting i.e. it does not survive repeated shampooings.
It has now been found that hair conditioning compo-sitions may be provided which are relatively stable to repeated shampooings by formulating such compositions so that they consist essentially of an aqueous solution containing a cationic polymer, an amphoteric detergent and sufficient acid to give the aqueous solution a pH
in the range of about 1 to 6.
It is accordingly an object of the present inven-tion to provide a hair conditioning composition that is stable to repeated hair shampooings.
It is also an object of the present invention to .~

1137~1S

provide a process for treating hair using the aforesaid composition which has a conditioning effect on the hair that is relatively stable to repeated shampooings.
It is a further object of this invention to provide a composition of the aforesaid type which consists essen-tially of an aqueous acidic solution containing a cationic polymer and an amphoteric detergent and to provide a process for treating hair with such a composition.
Other and more detailed objects of this invention will be apparent from the following description and claims.
The cationic polymers that are useful for the pur-poses of the present invention can vary somewhat. Two classes of polymers that have been found to be particularly useful are those sold under the trade names MERQUAT*te.g.
MERQUAT 100) and ONAMER*(e.g. ONAMER M). The former are polymers of dimethyldiallyl ammonium chloride and are probably mixtures of compounds having the following formula:
(A) (B) ~ CH2~ CH21 CH2~
I FH fH I _ CH2 - CH fH

\ / \ + /

H3C CH3 n CH3 CH3 n These vary in molecular weight. Ordinarily, however, the polymers of this class that will be employed have a molecular weight in the range of from 4,000 to 550,000 and preferably in the range of from 20,000 to 100,000.

*Trademark ,: .

- 1137~L5 The ONAMæR type polymers that are useful for the present purposes are poly(dimethyl butenyl ammonium chloride)-~,~-bis(triethanol ammonium chlorides) that may be described by the general formula:

OH-CH2CH2 r ~CH3 1 /CH2CH2OH
CH2CH2 / N -N -CH2-CH = CH- CH2 ~ N ~ CH2CH2OH
OH-CH2CH2 _CH3 Cl CH2CH2OH

The molecular weights of these polymers that may be employed herein can also vary somewhat. For the most part, however, this will be in the range of from about 800 to 5000 and preferably, in the range of from about 1000 to 3000.
The quantity of cationic polymer contained in the present aqueous solutions will depend on the particular results that are desired. Ordinarily, this will consti-tute between about 0.4% to about 10% by weight based on the total weight of the aqueous composition with the optimal range being between about 1~ to about 5% on the same weight basis.
The second essential component of the compositions of this invention are the amphoteric detergents. A
characteristic of these materials is that many assume the character of an anionic or a cationic surfactant compound depending upon the pH of the solution in which it may be contained. There are a number of amphoteric detergents that are suitable for use in the present invention.
However, two classes of detergents have been found to be especially effective. The first class can be defined by the formula:

~, q .

~ 1~37~1S

CH2COONa R C C 2 2 2coo in which R is a long chain fatty radical containing from 10 to 18 carbon atoms. A typical example of such a compound or compounds is the case in which R represents coconut fatty radicals. A material of this character is sold under the trade name MIRANOL C2MSF and is described in the CTFA
Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary (1973) under the name AMPHOTERIC-2.
A second class of amphoteric detergents that is particularly effective for the purposes of the present invention can be defined by the formula:

wherein R is a long chain fatty alkyl group having from 10 to 18 carbon atoms. An example of such a detergent is marketed under the trade name DERIPHAT 170C in which the R in formula IV is a mixture of lauryl and myristyl fatty alkyl groups. This material is described in the CTFA
Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary (1973) as Lauraminopropionic Acid.
The quantity of amphoteric detergent which will be contained in the composition of this invention will vary *Trademark - 1137~1S

somewhat again depending on the economics and the results sought. However, usually this will be in the range of from about 0.2 to about 20% by weight and ideally in the range of from about 1% to about 5~ by weight based on the total weight of the composition.
Another essential feature of the present composition is that the solution have an acid pH that is a pH that falls in the range of from about 1 to 6. Any of a variety of acids may be used in adjusting the pH of these composi-tions to the proper level, hydrochloric, citric, and phosphoric acids were found to be particularly useful and suitable.
Although the cationic polymers, the amphoteric detergents and the acids mentioned above are the essential active ingredients in the present compositions, the compo-sitions contemplated by the present invention may also contain other ingredients which may serve to improve the organoleptic character of the product or its ease of application. Thus, it is within the purview of this invention to incorporate in the present compositions such materials as fragrances, thickening agents, fragrance solubilizers, etc.
Aside from the absolute quantities of the cationic polymer and amphoteric detergent contained in the present compositions, it has been found that their conditioning effectiveness is highly dependent upon the "molar ratio"
of polymer to detergent. The term "molar ratio" as used herein is designated by the letter a andis defined as:
a = [ Polymer (mer) ]
. .
~ Detergent (mol) ]
In the above expression and elsewhere in the specification and claims, the term rPolymer (mer)] refers to the number of molS
of the repeating units of the polymer bearing a single positive - charge contained in the composition. The term [Detergent (mol)]
in the aforesaid expression and elsewhere is defined as the 1~L3"79~1~

number of mols of detergent contained in the composition. The ratio ~ may vary somewhat. Ordinarily, this will be in the range of Crom about .2 ~o abou~ ~ ana pre~erably in the range of from about l to about 2.
The compositions of this invention may be applied to hair in any suitable manner. One typical procedure involves applying the conditioning composition, such as described in Example 1 below to freshly dyed or bleached hair, working it gently into the hair mass, leaving the said composition on hair for one to three minutes and rinsing the hair thor-oughly with water prior to combing and drying. Amount of the conditioning composition applied to hair may vary but, in general, should not be less than l~ of the hair weight and does not need to exceed 20% of the hair weight.
It is generally visualized that the compositions of this invention will be applied to hair that has previously been given a treatment that leaves the hair somewhat alkaline.
Typical of such treatment are treatments with oxidation hair dye systems ~r bleaching systems. One such treat~ent involves mixing a dye base containing among other things the oxidation dye inter-mediates with an aqueous vehicle containing an oxidizing agent such as hydrogen peroxide and then shampooing this mixture into the hair. These mixtures before being applied to thehair usually have an alkaline pH e.g. in the range of from 7 to 12 and pre-ferably 8 to ll. Another such treatment involves for example treating the hair with an alkaline bleaching solution which con-tains the usual oxidizing agent (e.g. agueous hydrogen peroxide), boosters (e.g. potassium persulfate and ammonium persulfate), alkalizing agents, etc.
When the compositions of this invention are applied to hair that has been previously treated as indicated above the com-~
bination of amphoteric detergent and cationic polymer precipi-tates out on the hair forming a conditioning complex that is highly resistant to repeated shampooings.

374~.5 The pH of the hair conditioning compositions that are employed in the present invention will be selected to some extent on the basis of the alkalinity of the hair to be treated and the relative amounts of cationic polymers and amphoteric detergent. In general, the pH is selected so that after the composition is applied to the hair and comes under the influence of the alkalinity of the hair that the pH
of the composition is increased by approximately 1 pH unit above which t~ pre~ipitation of the complex takes place. Generally, under these conditions the optimum precipitation of the condit-ioning complex appears to take place.
The following Examples are given to further illus~rate the present invention. It is to be understood, however, that the invention is not limited thereto.

Ingredient % by Wt.
*Merquat 100 2.00 **Miranol C2MSF 4.00 Hydroxyethyl cellulose 2.00 Phosphoric acid1.60 Fragrance 0.10 Water QS to 100.00 pH 4.5 * CTFA name Quaternium-40+
**CTFA name Amphoteric-2 Ingredient % by Wt.
***Onamer M 1.00 Miranol C2MSF 2.00 Hydroxyethyl cellulose 2.00 Phosphoric acid0.90 Fragrance 0.10 Water QS to 100.00 pH 4.0 *** poly(dimethyl butenyl ammonium chloride)-~,~ -bis(tri-ethanol ammonium chloride) Av. M.W. about 1000-2000 Conditioning formulations of this invention are not only effective in improving wet and dry combing of hair, imparting +Trademark 1~L37~1.S

manageability, softness, etc. but unlike the conventional products, their conditioning effects are stable to repeated shampooings. This conditioning durability is illustrated in the following experiment, the dyed hair being used as the test substrate.
Swatches of intact Caucasian hair were colored with Composition A below for 20 minutes, in accordance with the procedure of the instructions. The ratio of the amount of solution to weight of hair, temperature and quantity of water used for rinsing after treatment, were all maintained so as to simulate conditions on the head. After rinsing, the conditioning material of Example 1 above was applied to hair (0.1 g of each product per 1 g of hair), it was worked in for 30 seconds and left on the hair for additional 1 minute after which time the hair was rinsed and combed.
The combing measurements were performed by the procedure described in the paper by Garcia and Diaz (J. Soc. Cosmet.
Chem. 27, 379-398, 1976). The test essentially involves passing of a hair tress through a comb attached to a strain gauge which in turn is connected to a recording device. Work is expended to accomplish the passage of the hair tress through the comb, and this work, read off the integrator, is the objective measure of combing ease/
difficulty.
Having determined the combing properties of hair after coloring and conditioning treatments, the swatches were shampooed with Herbal Essence Shampoo three times and again tested for combing. The shampooing procedure involved application of the shampoo (0.1 g per 1 g of hair), working it into the hair over the period of 60 seconds to produce a copious lather and rinsing the shampooed hair for at least 1 minute. Each shampoo step consisted of two lathering/rinsing sequences.

l37~LS

The results of combability tests are summarized in Table I below. In the Table, the "Work of Combing" is expressed in units of work (gcm). The higher the values, the harder was it to comb the hair.
COMPOSITION A
% by Wt. based on total weight of com~æosition p-Phenylenediamine 0.35 N,N-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine sulfate 0.18 Resorcinol 0.31 l-Naphthol 0.08 Oleic acid 7.50 Propylene glycol 4.40 Isopropanol 4.35 Hydrogen peroxide 3.00 *Octoxynol-l+ 3.50 Sulfated Castor Oil 1.50 Ammonium hydroxide 1.15 *Cocamide DEA 0.75 Fragrance 0.15 Sodium sulfite 0.05 EDTA 0.01 Water QS to 100.00 pH 9.8 *CTFA name (See CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, 2nd Edition, 1977) +Trademark ~l3~7~iS

TABLE I
Work of ('ombing (l) (2) (3) (4) (5) After (l) plus (2) followed (1) plus (4)followe~
5Dyeing Conventional by 3 shampoos Formula- by 3 sham-Conditioner tion from poos Table I

The following procedures illustrate the use of the conditioning agent of this invention after a hair bleaching treatment. It has been found that treatment of bleached hair with the present compositions also improves its feel and combability.
Two 3 gram swatches of brown Caucasian hair were bleached for 1 hour at 30C with 20 grams of the following bleach composition.
COMPOSITION B
% by Wt. based on total weight of composition Potassium persulfate 11.0 Ammonium persulfate 6.0 Sodium stearate 3.5 Sodium metasilicate 3.5 Hydrogen peroxide 3.5 Cab-O-Sil+ 2.5 EDTA + 0 5 Methocel 0.8 Water QS to 100.0 pH 10.3 +Trademark Ar~

-1~3741S

After bleaching, the hair was thoroughly rinsed and one of the bleached tresses was treated for 3 minutes with 1.5 g of the following composition:

Ingredient % by Wt.
Merquat 100 2.0 *Deriphat 170C 2.4 Benzyl alcohol 3.5 Phosphoric acid (85%) 1.1 Water QS to 100.0 * Lauraminopropionic acid The other tress was exposed for the same length of time to a conventional conditioner. Both tresses were thoroughly rinsed and found to be soft and silky to feel and easy to comb. Both tresses were then shampooed once and compared again. This time the conventionally conditioned tress felt sticky, rubbery and difficult to comb; while the tress that had been treated with conditioning compo-sition given in Example 3 retained the softness of feel and ease of combing. These conditioning attributes were still much in evidence for this tress after as many as 4 shampooings.
Although the invention has been described with reference to specific forms thereof, it will be understood that many changes and modifications may be made without departing from the spirit of this invention.

Claims (17)

WHAT IS CLAIMED IS:
1. An aqueous composition useful in conditioning hair consisting essentially of based on the total weight of the composition:
(a) from about 0.4% to about 10.0% of a cationic polymer which durably conditions hair in conjunction with an anionic surfactant;
(b) from about 0.2% to about 20% of an amphoteric detergent; and (c) sufficient acid to give the composition a pH
in the range of from about 1 to about 6;
the molar ratio wherein mer represents the number of mols of repeating units of the polymer bearing a single positive charge, being in the range of from about .2 to about 5; in (d) an aqueous carrier.
2. A composition according to Claim 1 in which said ratio is in the range of from about 1 to about 2.
3. A composition according to Claim 1 in which said cationic polymer is homopolymer of dimethyl diallyl ammonium chloride.
4. A composition according to Claim 1 wherein said amphoteric detergent is of the formula:

in which R is a long chain fatty radical containing 10 to 18 carbon atoms.
5. A composition according to Claim 1 in which said cationic polymer is a poly(dimethyl butenyl ammonium chloride)-.alpha. ,.omega. -bis(triethanol ammonium chloride).
6. A composition according to Claim 5 wherein said amphoteric detergent is of the formula:

in which R is a long chain fatty radical containing 10 to 18 carbon atoms.
7. A composition according to Claim 6 wherein R is a coconut fatty radical.
8. A composition according to Claim 5 in which said amphoteric detergent is of the formula:

in which R is a long chain fatty alkyl radical having from 10 to 18 carbon atoms.
9. A composition according to claims 2 or 3 wherein said amphoteric detergent is of the formula:

in which R is a long chain fatty radical containing 10 to 18 carbon atoms.
10. A method for conditioning hair which comprises applying to said hair a composition as defined in Claim 1, 2 or 3 for sufficient time to improve its combing characteristics and/or its manageability and/or its softness.
11. A method for conditioning hair which comprises applying to said hair a composition as defined in Claim 4, 5 or 6 for sufficient time to improve its combing characteristics and/or its manageability and/or its softness.
12. A method for conditioning hair which comprises applying to said hair a composition as defined in Claim 7 or 8 for sufficient time to improve its combing characteristics and/or its manageability and/or its softness.
13. In a process for conditioning hair which has been previously subjected to the treatment with a treating agent having an alkaline pH, the improvement which comprises applying to said pre-treated hair a composition as defined in Claim 1 for sufficient time to improve its combing characteristics and/or its manageability, and/or its softness.
14. In a process for conditioning hair which has been previously subjected to the treatment with a treating agent having an alkaline pH, the improvement which comprises applying to said pre-treated hair a composition as defined in Claim 2, 3 or 4 for sufficient time to improve its combing characteristics and/or its manageability, and/or its softness.
15. In a process for conditioning hair which has been previously subjected to the treatment with a treating agent having an alkaline pH, the improvement which comprises applying to said pre-treated hair a composition as defined in Claim 5, 6 or 7 for sufficient time to improve its combing characteristics and/or its manageability, and/or its softness.
16. A process according to Claim 13 in which the pH of said treating agent is in the range of from about 7 to 12.
17. A process according to Claim 16 in which the pH of the treating agent is in the range of from about 8 to 11.
CA000341701A 1979-07-02 1979-12-12 Aqueous acidic hair conditioning composition containing cationic polymer and amphoteric detergent Expired CA1137415A (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
US5437879A 1979-07-02 1979-07-02
US054,378 1979-07-02

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
CA1137415A true CA1137415A (en) 1982-12-14

Family

ID=21990638

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
CA000341701A Expired CA1137415A (en) 1979-07-02 1979-12-12 Aqueous acidic hair conditioning composition containing cationic polymer and amphoteric detergent

Country Status (5)

Country Link
JP (1) JPS57112316A (en)
BE (1) BE884135A (en)
CA (1) CA1137415A (en)
NZ (1) NZ194206A (en)
ZA (1) ZA803966B (en)

Families Citing this family (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPS59176204A (en) * 1983-03-28 1984-10-05 Shiseido Co Ltd Cosmetic for hair
US6090773A (en) 1996-01-29 2000-07-18 Johnson & Johnson Consumer Products, Inc. Personal cleansing
ID18376A (en) 1996-01-29 1998-04-02 Johnson & Johnson Consumer DETERGENT COMPOSITIONS

Family Cites Families (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
NZ182303A (en) * 1975-11-28 1978-09-20 Johnson & Johnson Conditioning and cleansing shampoo compositions
JPS5322509A (en) * 1976-08-13 1978-03-02 Lion Corp Shampoo composition

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
ZA803966B (en) 1981-10-28
JPH0237321B2 (en) 1990-08-23
BE884135A (en) 1981-01-05
JPS57112316A (en) 1982-07-13
NZ194206A (en) 1984-07-31

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