BR112018072010B1 - PROCESS FOR THE PREPARATION OF NANOSTRUCTURED LIPID VEHICLES, NANOSTRUCTURED LIPID VEHICLES, COSMEUTICAL AND COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS, HAIR CARE COMPOSITION, METHODS TO PROTECT HAIR AND TO PROVIDE PHOTOPROTECTION AND USES OF A COMPOSITION - Google Patents

Abstract

"process for preparing lipid carriers, nanostructured lipid carriers, cosmeceutical and cosmetic compositions, hair care composition, methods for protecting hair and for providing photoprotection and use of a composition". The present disclosure relates to nanostructured lipid carriers (NLCs) comprising a combination of murumuru seed butter, bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2 and oil. The disclosure further relates to processes for producing the NLCs, compositions comprising the NLCs, methods of using the NLCs in cosmeceutical and skin care cosmetic applications, and uses of the compositions of the invention.

Description

FIELD OF THE INVENTION

[001] The present disclosure relates to nanostructured lipid vehicles (NLCs) comprising a combination of murumuru seed butter, bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2 and oil. The disclosure further relates to processes for producing the NLCs, compositions comprising the NLCs, modes of using the NLCs in cosmeceutical, cosmetic and skin care applications, and uses of the compositions of the invention.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

[002] Hair and skin contain lipids that provide protective characteristics to the body. Lipids make up about 3% of the hair's total composition and provide a degree of impermeability. The hair cuticle contains a concentration of lipids, which are basically covalently linked fatty acids such as stearic acid, palmitic acid, oleic acid and 18-methyleicosanoic acid (18-MEA). These fatty acids make hair hydrophobic and electrically insulating. The composition of murumuru butter is similar to the lipid composition of the outer surface of the hair cuticle. Murumuru butter is rich in short chain fatty acids such as myristic (26%), lauric (47.5%), oleic (12.6%), stearic (2.6%) and palmitic (6. 3%).

[003] Despite the hair's natural lipid barrier, it can be damaged in several ways. Hair fibers can be damaged by environmental influences such as exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation or extreme humidity conditions (eg dry weather conditions) or exposure to chlorine in water; hair fibers can be damaged due to chemical treatments such as bleaching, perming, frequent washing with cleaning shampoos based on crude surfactants; and hair fibers can be damaged due to mechanical influences, such as brushing/combing, or due to heat, such as prolonged use of heated styling tools. Lipid loss from the cuticle causes hair fibers to become stiff and brittle, which can cause hair to break, leading to frayed or split ends.

[004] Additionally, it is well known that solar radiation damages hair and exposure to UV rays can cause dryness, reduced strength, rough surface texture, and hair color fading and thinning.

[005] Like hair, the surface of the skin also contains lipids that are critical to its barrier function. The lack of barrier function in the skin can lead to cracking, dehydration, sensitization, pigmentation and aging. Common disruptors of epidermal barrier integrity can range from hydroxy acids and soaps to stress. Healing the skin can be the first step in improving the barrier layer, and an essential component is the replacement of depleted lipids.

[006] The skin has been a target site of drug application. However, the skin, and in particular the stratum corneum, represents a formidable barrier to the penetration of drugs and other small molecules, thus limiting topical and transdermal bioavailability. Skin penetration enhancement techniques have been developed to improve bioavailability and increase the range of drugs for which topical and transdermal administration is a viable option. Breeding techniques, however, have focused on drug selection, pro-drugs and ion pairs, supersaturated drug solutions, eutectic systems, complexation, liposomes, vesicles and particles.

[007] The document BR 10 2014 0280022 described a process for obtaining triblock copolymer of nanostructured lipid vehicles and their vehicles. This document does not conflict with the invention, as it presents differences in the lipid composition and in the amount of lipids used, in addition to the differentiation of each surfactant formulation. In the cited document, the lipid vehicles are composed of cupuaçu butter (Theobroma grandiflorum) and lanolin, as solid lipids, in a mass ratio ranging from 50 to 99%, preferably with a ratio of 60: 40% (cupuaçu: lanolin); buriti oil as a liquid lipid in the proportion of 1 to 50% by mass, preferably in the amount of 5% of this liquid lipid; and the surfactant Pluronic F68, a non-ionic hydrophilic poloxamer in the proportion of 0.2 to 1.0% by mass, preferably in the amount of 0.5%. The disclosure relates the preferred ratio of 70:30% of murumuru butter and bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2, with a ratio of 50 to 90% of solid lipids; preferably in the amount of 20% of buriti oil, with a variation from 10 to 50% by mass; and quaternary ammonium salt as a surfactant such as cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride and hexadecyltrimethylammonium chloride, preferably with the first two surfactants in the proportion of 0.3 to 1.5%, preferably in the amount of 0.7%.

[008] Furthermore, the cited document states that the homogenization process is in the range of 400 to 700 bar, preferably 600 bar, with 3 to 5 homogenization cycles, preferably 3 cycles, on the other hand the disclosure has a range of 300 at 800 bar, preferably 700 bar with 2 to 5 cycles, preferably 3 cycles of homogenization. In this revelation, nanostructured lipid vehicles with an average size of 160-250 nm and zeta potential from +40 mV to +75 mV are obtained, with stability without changes in any of the parameters measured for up to 180 days, while in the cited document the nanostructured lipid vehicles have a mean diameter of 180200 nm and a zeta potential of -30.4 mV to -42.8 mV, stable for 75 days.

[009] Therefore, the technology described in BR 10 2014 0280022 presents a technical development in nanostructured lipid nanoparticles where they use two different solid lipids, namely, one vegetable (cupuaçu), and one of animal origin (lanolin), which limits their use , since the use of animal components in cosmetics is restricted. The liquid lipid concentration (5% by mass) for the nanoparticle composition in the document has a lower concentration than the disclosure, since in the invention the liquid lipid concentration is 4 times higher than the document. The short stability of the nanoparticles for up to 75 days in the document is a technical problem that limits the technology, however, this disclosure has more than 180 days of nanoparticle stability and a shorter homogenization cycle.

[010] WO 03059244 describes a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition containing oil extracted from Murumuru seeds. Solid lipid nanoparticles for epidermal targets are described in Chen et al., Podophyllotoxin-Loaded Solid Lipid Nanoparticles for Epidermal Targeting, J. CONTROL RELEASE, 10; 110(2):296-306 (2006). These solid lipid nanoparticles are composed of 0.5% poloxamer 188 (Pluronic F68), 1.5% soy lecithin (P-NLS) and 2% polysorbate 80 (Tween 80) (T-NLS), and are prepared with organic solvents to stabilize the starting ingredients (POD, tripalmitin and soy lecithin) by high pressure homogenization at 800 bar and 5 cycles. US 2004/0109894 is related to the manufacture of polymeric nanoparticles (Eudragit S 100) encapsulated in pH sensitive microspheres and BR 1100513-0 A2 is related to a process for the production of polymeric nanocapsules combining in situ interfacial polymerization with the production of a phase inversion nanoemulsion. The process uses acrylic acid-derived monomers, activators, initiators and a plant component.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[011] The present disclosure relates to nanostructured lipid vehicles (NLCs) comprising a combination of at least three components: murumuru seed butter, bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2, oil and surfactant. NLCs are unique in that they have a strong affinity for substances such as hair fibers; they attach themselves to the hair fibers and even penetrate to some extent into the hair fibers. NLCs can deliver their content to hair and skin as they have the ability to penetrate hair and skin, in part due to their small size. NLCs typically have a mean diameter of about 160 to about 250 nm and a zeta potential of about +30 mV to about +75 mV.

[012] NLCs are lipophilic. Therefore, lipophilic active agents (in addition to the three lipids that form the backbone of NLCs) can be incorporated into NLCs. For example, an organic UV protective agent can be incorporated into the NLCs to increase the sun protection factor (SPF) of the NLCs beyond the amazing SPF already exhibited by the NLCs or the oil in the NLC without the addition of an additional organic UV protective agent.

[013] NLCs are often dispersed in an aqueous medium with a surfactant. This resulting composition can function as a cosmetic composition such as a cosmetic or hair care composition, or as a cosmeceutical composition, or it can serve as a component (ingredient) of a cosmetic composition such as a hair care or cosmetic composition. with hair or as a cosmeceutical composition. Often the dispersion is an emulsion. Compositions of the disclosure typically include: (a) murumuru seed butter; (b) bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2; (c) oil; (d) a surfactant; and (e) water. The amounts of these components can vary greatly. For example, based on the total weight of the composition, the murumuru seed butter may be present in an amount of from about 0.5 to about 15% by weight, the bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2 may be present in an amount of from about 0.3 to about 10% by weight, the oil may be present in an amount of from about 0.01 to about 20% by weight of an oil, and the surfactant may be present in an amount of 0 .01 to 5% by weight.

[014] The amount of bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2 in NLCs is often higher than the amount of oil. In addition, the ratio of murumuru seed butter to the amount of bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2 is typically from about 1.5:1 to about 4:1, from about 2:1 to about 3 : 1, or about 2.3 : 1.

[015] The oil component of NLCs is typically liquid at room temperature and is often natural oil, for example a plant or vegetable based oil. Non-limiting examples of plant-based or vegetable oils include buriti oil, coconut oil, Brazil nut oil, passion fruit oil, andiroba oil, acai oil, argan oil, avocado oil, chamomile oil and sunflower oil. In some cases, the oil is buriti oil.

[016] NLCs and compositions comprising NLCs can be used in methods to protect hair or skin from environmental damage unrelated to UV radiation damage.

[017] Environmental damage, as used herein, refers to damage such as that caused by environmental chemicals, pollution, or dry weather conditions.

[018] NLCs and compositions comprising NLCs can be used in UV photoprotection methods for colored or artificially dyed hair.

[019] UV-related damage, as used herein, refers to damage caused by solar radiation that can cause dryness, reduced strength, rough surface texture, and hair color fading and fading.

[020] In addition, the NLCs and compositions comprising the NLCs can be used to deliver an active agent (typically a lipophilic active agent) to the hair, skin or body. The active agent may be, for example, a cosmetically active agent.

[021] The present disclosure further relates to processes for preparing NLCs, the process typically involving: (i) combining murumuru seed butter and bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2; (ii) heating the combination of murumuru seed butter and bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2 to a temperature above their melting temperatures and melting the combination; (iii) combining the molten combination of (ii) with an oil; (iv) adding the combination of (iii) to a mixture of water and a surfactant; (v) subjecting the product of (iv) to a homogenization process; (vi) cooling the homogenate; and (vii) obtain the NLCs.

[022] The murumuru seed butter and bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2 are combined and heated in step (ii). They are heated to a temperature above the melting point of both lipids, for example at a temperature of 45 to 55 °C. Also, in some cases, the combination of murumuru seed butter, bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2, and (iii) oil is maintained at a temperature of at least 10°C above the melting temperatures of the murumuru seed butter. murumuru and bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2 until the combination of (iii) is added to the surfactant and water mixture in step (iv).

[023] Regarding the homogenization process of (v), it can be carried out at a pressure of about 3 x 107 to about 8 x 107 Pa (300 to about 800 bar) and at a temperature of about 40 to about 70°C. The homogenization process results in the formation of a homogenate. In some cases, it may be useful to repeat the homogenization process, optionally with the same or different pressures and/or temperatures. The homogenization process can be repeated two to five times (i.e. two to five cycles). In some cases, a subsequent homogenization process can be carried out at a pressure of about 3 x 106 to about 8 x 106 Pa (30 to about 80 bar) and at a temperature of about 40 to about 70°C.

[024] The present disclosure further relates to NLCs obtained by the process described above and to cosmetic compositions comprising the NLCs, for example in hair care products. These NLCs and compositions comprising them can be applied to hair and skin in methods of protecting hair and skin from environmental damage unrelated to UV radiation damage, and for delivering an active ingredient to hair or skin.

[025] The present disclosure further relates to a method of providing UV photoprotection to artificially colored or dyed hair, comprising applying the composition to the hair in order to prevent/minimize hair color fading.

[026] Furthermore, the present disclosure relates to the use of a composition to protect the hair or minimize hair damage caused by environmental damage or mechanical actions or chemical or heat damage and the use of a composition to provide photoprotection to the hair. UV to artificially colored or dyed hair.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

[027] The implementations of the present technology will now be described, by way of example only, with reference to the attached figures, in which: Figure 1 provides images obtained by confocal microscopy showing differences between particles at various stages of the manufacturing process, ie , pre-emulsion (a), after a first homogenization process (b), after a second homogenization process (c) and after a third homogenization process (d); Figure 2 provides confocal microscopic images of an untreated hair fiber (a) and a hair fiber treated with the NLCs (b); Figure 3 provides cryomicroscopy-generated images of NLCs; Figure 4 provides images obtained by high resolution scanning electron microscopy (SEM) showing the difference in the surface of an untreated hair fiber (a) with the surface of the NLC treated hair fiber (b); Figure 5 provides more detailed, close-up (magnified) images of the capillary fiber surfaces of Figure 4 (a) and (b); Figure 6 presents the results regarding the color variation, (ΔE*), obtained before starting the exposure to UV rays and at the end of the experiment; Figure 7 provides the results of the study of hair integrity using differential scanning colorimetry (DSC). The graph of Figure 7 shows the denaturation temperature (°C) after each treatment on hair samples; and Figure 8 provides the results of studying the hair surface using scanning electron microscopy.

[028] It should be understood that the various aspects are not limited to the arrangements and instrumentality shown in the drawings.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[029] The present disclosure relates to nanostructured lipid vehicles (NLCs) comprising a combination of at least three lipids: murumuru seed butter, bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2, oil and surfactant. Typically, NLCs are dispersed in an aqueous vehicle that is cosmetically acceptable. More specifically, the compositions may comprise: (a) Murumuru butter; (b) bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2; (c) vegetable oil; (d) a cationic surfactant; and (e) water.

[030] The average diameter of NLCs can vary, but in some cases, the average diameter is from about 160 to about 250 nm, about 170 to about 240 nm, or about 180 to about 230 nm. Also, NLCs often have a zeta potential of about +30 mV to about +75 mV, about +45 mV to about +75 mV, about +15 mV to about +75 mV, 0 mV to about +75 mV, +15 mV to about +75 mV, about +40 mV to about +75 mV, about +45 to about +70 mV, or about +50 to +65 mV.

[031] The amount of each component in NLCs or compositions comprising them can vary greatly. For example, the amount of murumuru seed butter is often present in an amount greater than the amount of bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2 and greater than the amount of oil; it may also be greater than the amount of both the bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2 and the oil. For example, the ratio of the amount of murumuru seed butter to bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2 can be from about 1.5:1 to about 4:1, from about 2:1 to about 3:1, or about 2.3:1. In addition, the amount of murumuru seed butter can be in an amount of about 0.5 to about 15% by weight, about 0.5 to about 12% by weight. , about 0.5 to about 10% by weight, about 0.5 to about 8% by weight, about 0.5 to about 6% by weight, about 0.5 to about 4% by weight, about 1 to about 15% by weight, about 1 to about 12% by weight, about 1 to about 10% by weight, about 1 to about 8% by weight, about 1 to about 6% by weight, or about 1 to about 4% by weight, based on the total weight of the compositions.

[032] The amount of bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2 can be in an amount of about 0.3 to about 10% by weight, about 0.3 to about 9% by weight, about 0.3 to about 0.3 to about 8% by weight, about 0.3 to about 7% by weight, about 0.3 to about 6% by weight, about 0.3 to about 5% by weight, about 0. 3 to about 4% by weight, about 0.3 to about 3% by weight, about 0.5 to about 10% by weight, about 0.5 to about 9% by weight, about 0.5 to about 8% by weight, about 0.5 to about 7% by weight, about 0.5 to about 6% by weight, about 0.5 to about 5% by weight, about 0.5 to about 4% by weight or about 0.5 to about 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[033] As stated above, NLCs typically include an oil, the oil generally being a liquid at room temperature. In some cases, the oil is a natural oil, such as a plant-based or vegetable oil. Non-limiting examples of oils include buriti oil, coconut oil, Brazil nut oil, passion fruit oil, andiroba oil, acai oil, argan oil, avocado oil, chamomile oil, sunflower oil or a combination of the same. In some cases, the oil is buriti oil.

[034] The amount of oil may be in an amount of about 0.01 to about 20% by weight, about 0.01 to about 10% by weight, about 0.01 to about 8% by weight weight, about 0.01 to about 6% by weight, about 0.01 to about 4% by weight, about 0.01 to about 3% by weight, about 0.05 to about 10 % by weight, about 0.05 to about 8% by weight, about 0.05 to about 6% by weight, about 0.05 to about 4% by weight, about 0.05 to about from 3% by weight, about 0.1 to about 0.01, about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, about 0.1 to about 0.1 to about 6% by weight, about 0.1 to about 4% by weight, 0.1 to about 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[035] The surfactant is a cationic surfactant, such as a primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amine salt, a quaternary ammonium salt or mixtures thereof. Non-limiting examples of cationic surfactants include behenalkonium chloride, benzethonium chloride, cetylpyridinium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, lauralkonium chloride, cetalkonium chloride, cetrimonium bromide, cetrimonium chloride, cetylamine hydrofluoride, chloralylmethenamine chloride (Quaternium-15 ), distearyldimonium chloride (Quatérnium-5), dodecyl dimethyl ethylbenzyl ammonium chloride (Quternium-14), Quaternium-22, Quaternium-26, Quaternium-18 hectorite, dimethylaminoethylchloride hydrochloride, cysteine hydrochloride, diethanolammonium POE(10) oleyl Ether Phosphate, Diethanolammonium POE(3) Oleyl Ether Phosphate, Tallow Alkonium Chloride, Dimethyl Dioctadecylammonium Bentonite, Stearalkonium Chloride, Domiphene Bromide, Denatonium Benzoate, Myristalkonium Chloride, Laurtrimonium Chloride, Ethylenediamine Dihydrochloride, Guanidine Hydrochloride, Pyridoxine HCl, yophetamine hydrochloride, meglumine hydrochloride, methylbenzethonium chloride, mytrimonium bromide, chlorine oleyltrimonium, polyquaternium-1, procaine hydrochloride, cocobetaine, stearalkonium bentonite, stearalkonium hectonite, stearyl trihydroxyethyl propylenediamine dihydrofluoride, tallow trimmonium chloride and hexadecyltrimethyl ammonium bromide. In some cases, the cationic surfactant may be cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, hexadecyltrimethylammonium chloride, or a mixture thereof.

[036] The amount of cationic surfactant can be from about 0.01 to about 5% by weight, about 0.01 to about 4% by weight, about 0.01 to about 3% by weight, about 0.01 to about 2% by weight, about 0.05 to about 5% by weight, about 0.05 to about 4% by weight, about 0.05 to about 3% by weight weight, about 0.05 to about 2% by weight, about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, about 0.1 to about 4% by weight, about 0.1 to about 3 % by weight, or about 0.1 to about 2% by weight.

[037] The NLCs and compositions containing the NLCs of the present disclosure may contain other surfactants in addition to the aforementioned cationic surfactants, such as a non-ionic surfactant, anionic surfactant, an amphoteric surfactant or zwitterionic surfactant.

[038] NLCs may, in some cases, include an active agent, usually a lipophilic active agent. The lipophilic agent can be dissolved, dispersed or encapsulated in the NLC. Note, however, that an active agent, such as a hydrophilic active agent, may alternatively or additionally be dissolved, dispersed or encapsulated in the aqueous vehicle of compositions comprising the NLCs.

[039] In some cases, the lipophilic active agent is an aminophenol derivative, a salicylic acid derivative, a N,N'-di(arylmethylene) ethylenediaminetriacetate derivative, a 2-amino-4-alkylaminopyrimidine 3-oxide derivative , a flavonoid, retinol, retinol, retinol derivatives, a carotenoid, a fragrance, an essential oil, a hormone, a vitamin, a ceramide, a UV-scanning agent, or a mixture thereof.

[040] The present description describes and encompasses processes for preparing NLCs and compositions comprising the NLCs. Processes typically include: (i) combining murumuru seed butter and bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2; (ii) heating the combination of murumuru seed butter and bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2 to a temperature above their melting temperatures and melting the combination; (iii) combining the molten combination of (ii) with an oil; (iv) adding the combination of (iii) to a mixture of water and a surfactant; (v) subjecting the product of (iv) to a homogenization process; (vi) cooling the homogenate; and (vii) obtain the NLCs.

[041] The murumuru seed butter and bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2 are combined and heated in step (ii). They are heated to a temperature above the melting point of both lipids, for example to a temperature of about 45 to about 55°C. Also, in some cases, the combination of murumuru seed butter, bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2 and oil from (iii) is maintained at a temperature of at least 10 °C above the melting temperatures of murumuru butter and of bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2 until the combination of (iii) is added to the mixture of surfactant and water in step (iv).

[042] With regard to the homogenization process of (v), it can be carried out at a pressure of about 3 x 107 to about 8 x 107 Pa (about 300 to about 800 bar) and at a temperature of about 40 to about 70°C. In some cases, it may be useful to repeat the homogenization process, optionally with the same or different pressures and/or temperatures. The homogenization process can be repeated two to five times (ie two to five cycles). In some cases, a subsequent homogenization process can be carried out at a pressure of about 3 x 106 to about 8 x 106 Pa (about 30 to about 80 bar) and at a temperature of about 40 to about of 70°C.

[043] The amounts and ratios for the components are as defined above, as well as the types of oils, surfactants, etc.

[044] The present description further specifically relates to NLCs and compositions comprising the NLCs obtained by the processes described herein. These compositions can be, for example, cosmetic compositions, and can be used in methods for treating hair, skin or body. In some cases, the compositions are hair care compositions and can be used in methods of protecting hair from damage, such as environmental damage that is unrelated to UV radiation damage. More exhaustive, but non-limiting, lists of components useful in the hair care compositions described herein are provided below.

VEGETABLE OILS

[045] The oil component of NLCs typically has a melting temperature of less than 45°C, a molecular weight of at least 190 and a water solubility of not more than 1 part in 99 parts of water. Non-limiting examples include plant or vegetable oils such as acai oil, almond oil, aloe vera oil, andiroba oil, annatto oil, avocado oil, babassu oil, borage oil, Pará, buriti oil, camelina oil, coffee oil, copaiba oil, emu oil, passion fruit oil, almond oil, castor oil, coconut oil, grape seed oil, jojoba oil, macadamia nut, rosehip oil, ajwain oil, angelic root oil, anise oil, argan oil, asafetida, balsam oil, basil oil, bay oil, bergamot oil, black pepper essential oil, buchu, birch oil, camphor, marijuana oil, cumin oil, cardamom seed oil, carrot seed oil, chamomile oil, calamus root oil, cinnamon oil, citronella oil, clary sage sage), clove leaf oil, coffee, coriander, costmary oil, blackberry seed oil, cubeb, cumin oil, cypress, cypr iol, curry leaf, davana oil, dill oil, enula, eucalyptus oil, fennel seed oil, fenugreek, fir, frankincense oil, galangal, geranium oil, ginger oil, goldenrod, oil Grapefruit Oil, Grape Seed Oil, Henna Oil, Helicrisum, Horseradish Oil, Hissop, Idaho Tansy, Jasmine Oil, Juniper Oil, Lavender Oil, Lemon Oil, Lemongrass, Marjoram, Tea Tree, lemon balm, mountain savory, mugwort oil, mustard oil, myrrh oil, myrtle, neem oil, neroli, nutmeg, orange oil, oregano oil, orris oil, palo santo, parsley oil, oil patchouli oil, perilla oil, pennyroyal oil, peppermint oil, spearmint oil, petitgrain, pine oil, plum oil, ravensara, red cedar, roman chamomile, rose oil, rosehip oil, rosemary oil, rosewood oil, sandalwood oil, sassafras oil, savory oil, schisandra oil, spikenard, fir, star anise oil, tangerine, tarragon oil, olive oil tea oil, thyme oil, tsuga oil, turmeric, valerian, vetiver oil, western red cedar, wintergreen, yarrow oil, ylang ylang and zedoary oil.

[046] In certain embodiments of the present disclosure, the oil is a vegetable oil chosen from buriti oil.

SURFACTANTS CATIONIC SURFACTANTS

[047] The term "cationic surfactant" means a surfactant that is positively charged when contained in the composition according to the disclosure. This surfactant may support one or more permanent positive charges or may contain one or more functions which are cationizable in the composition according to the disclosure.

[048] Non-limiting examples of cationic surfactants include behenalkonium chloride, benzethonium chloride, cetylpyridinium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, lauralkonium chloride, cetalkonium chloride, cetrimonium bromide, cetrimonium chloride, cetylamine hydrofluoride, chlorylmethenamine chloride ( Quaternium-15), Distearyldimonium Chloride (Quternium-5) Dodecyl Dimethyl Ethylbenzylammonium Hydrochloride (Quternium-14), Quaternium-22, Quaternium-26, Quaternium-18 Hectorite, Dimethylaminoethylchloride Hydrochloride, Cysteine Hydrochloride, Diethanolammonium POE(10) oethyl ether phosphate, diethanolammonium POE (3) oleyl ether phosphate, tallow alkonia chloride, dimethyl dioctadecylammonium bentonite, stearalkonium chloride, domiphene bromide, denatonium benzoate, myristalkonium chloride, laurtrimonium chloride, ethylenediamine dihydrochloride, guanidine hydrochloride, pyridoxine HCl, yophetamine hydrochloride, meglumine hydrochloride, methylbenzethonium chloride, myrtrimonium bromide oleyltrimonium chloride, polyquaternium-1, procaine hydrochloride, cocobetaine, stearalkonium bentonite, stearalkonium hectonite, stearyl trihydroxyethyl propylenediamine dihydrofluoride, tallow trimmonium chloride and hexadecyltrimethyl ammonium bromide.

[049] Cationic surfactants can be optionally chosen from polyoxyalkylenated, primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, or their salts, and quaternary ammonium salts and mixtures thereof.

[050] Fatty amines generally comprise at least one chain based on C8-C30 hydrocarbons.

em que os grupos R8 a R11, que podem ser idênticos ou diferentes, representam um grupo alifático linear ou ramificado, saturado ou insaturado compreendendo de 1 a 30 átomos de carbono, ou um grupo aromático tal como arila ou alquilarila, pelo menos um dos grupos R8 a R11 denotando um grupo compreendendo de 8 a 30 átomos de carbono e preferencialmente de 12 a 24 átomos de carbono. Os grupos alifáticos podem compreender heteroátomos especialmente como oxigênio, nitrogênio, enxofre e halogêneos. Os grupos alifáticos são escolhidos, por exemplo, a partir dos grupos alquila C1-C30, alquenila C2-C30, alcoxi C1-C30, polioxi-alquileno (C2-C6), alquilamida C1-C30, alquilamido (C2-C22) alquil (C2-C6), acetato de alquila (C12-C22) e hidroxialquila C1-C30; X- é um ânion escolhido a partir do grupo dos halogenetos, fosfatos, acetatos, lactatos, alquil (C1-C4) sulfatos e sulfonatos de alquila (C1-C4) ou alquilarila (C1-C4).[051] Examples of quaternary ammonium salts that may be specially mentioned include: those corresponding to the general formula (III) below:

wherein the groups R8 to R11, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic group comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups R8 to R11 denoting a group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. Aliphatic groups can comprise heteroatoms especially such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens. The aliphatic groups are chosen, for example, from the groups C1-C30 alkyl, C2-C30 alkenyl, C1-C30 alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene (C2-C6), C1-C30 alkylamide, alkylamido (C2-C22)alkyl( C2-C6), (C12-C22) alkyl acetate and C1-C30 hydroxyalkyl; X- is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl (C1-C4) alkyl sulfates and sulfonates of alkyl (C1-C4) or alkylaryl (C1-C4).

[052] Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (III), preferred are, on the one hand, tetraalkylammonium salts, for example dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts in which the alkyl group contains approximately from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium or benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts, or, on the other hand, oleocyldimethylhydroxyethylammonium salts, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts, stearamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts and stearamidopropyldimethylcetearylammonium salts.

em que R12 representa um grupo alquenila ou alquila compreendendo de 8 a 30 átomos de carbono, derivados por exemplo de ácidos graxos de sebo, R13 representa um átomo de hidrogênio, um grupo alquila C1-C4 ou um grupo alquila ou alquenila compreendendo de 8 a 30 átomos de carbono, R14 representa um grupo alquila C1-C4, R15 representa um átomo de hidrogênio ou um grupo alquila C1-C4, X é um ânion escolhido no grupo dos halogenetos, fosfatos, acetatos, lactatos, alquilsulfatos, alquil- ou alquilaril sulfonatos nos quais os grupos alquila e arila compreendem preferencialmente, respectivamente, de 1 a 20 átomos de carbono e de 6 a 30 átomos de carbono, R12 e R13 denotam preferencialmente uma mistura de grupos alquenila ou alquila contendo 12 a 21 átomos de carbono, derivados exemplo a partir de ácidos graxos de sebo, R14 preferencialmente designa um grupo metila e R15 representa preferencialmente um átomo de hidrogênio; um sal quaternário de diamônio ou triamônio, em particular de fórmula (V):

em que R16 representa um radical alquila compreendendo aproximadamente de 16 a 30 átomos de carbono, que é opcionalmente hidroxilado e/ou interrompido com um ou mais átomos de oxigênio, R17 é escolhido a partir de hidrogênio ou um radical alquila compreendendo de 1 a 4 átomos de carbono ou um grupo (R16a)(R17a)(R18a)N-(CH2)3, R16a, R17a, R18a, R18, RI9, R20 e R21, que podem ser iguais ou diferentes, sendo escolhidos a partir de hidrogênio e um radical alquila compreendendo de 1 a 4 átomos de carbono, e X- é um ânion escolhido a partir do grupo de halogenetos, acetatos, fosfatos, nitratos e metil sulfatos Estes compostos são, por exemplo, Quatérnio 89 e Quatérnio 75; C. um sal de amônio quaternário contendo pelo menos uma função éster, tal como os de fórmula (VI) abaixo:

em que: R22 é escolhido a partir dos grupos alquila C1-C6 e os grupos hidroxialquila ou dihidroxialquila C1-C6; R23 é escolhido a partir de:

que é um grupo baseado em hidrocarboneto C1-C22 saturado ou insaturado linear ou ramificado, e um átomo de hidrogênio, R25 é escolhido a partir de:

R29, que é um grupo baseado em hidrocarboneto C1-C6 saturado ou insaturado, linear ou ramificado, e um átomo de hidrogênio, R24, R26 e R28, que podem ser idênticos ou diferentes, são escolhidos a partir de grupos baseados em hidrocarbonetos C7-C21 linear ou ramificado, saturado ou insaturado; r, s e t, que podem ser idênticos ou diferentes, são números inteiros que variam de 2 a 6; y é um número inteiro que varia de 1 a 10; x e z, que podem ser idênticos ou diferentes, são números inteiros que variam de 0 a 10; X- é um ânion simples ou complexo, orgânico ou mineral; com a condição de que a soma x + y + z é de 1 a 15, que quando x é 0, então, Rn denota R27, e que quando z é 0 então R25 denota R29.[053] In some cases, it is useful to use salts such as the chloride salts of the following compounds: A. a quaternary ammonium salt of imidazoline, such as, for example, those of formula (IV) below:

wherein R12 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, derived for example from tallow fatty acids, R13 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or an alkyl or alkenyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R14 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group, R15 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group, X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulfates, alkyl- or alkylaryl sulfonates in which the alkyl and aryl groups preferably comprise, respectively, from 1 to 20 carbon atoms and from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, R12 and R13 preferably denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups containing 12 to 21 carbon atoms, derived from example from tallow fatty acids, R14 preferably denotes a methyl group and R15 preferably represents a hydrogen atom; a quaternary diammonium or triammonium salt, in particular of formula (V):

wherein R16 represents an alkyl radical comprising approximately from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and/or interrupted with one or more oxygen atoms, R17 is chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 atoms carbon or a group (R16a)(R17a)(R18a)N-(CH2)3, R16a, R17a, R18a, R18, RI9, R20 and R21, which may be the same or different, being chosen from hydrogen and a alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X- is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and methyl sulfates. These compounds are, for example, Quaternium 89 and Quaternium 75; C. a quaternary ammonium salt containing at least one ester function, such as those of formula (VI) below:

wherein: R22 is chosen from C1-C6 alkyl groups and C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups; R23 is chosen from:

which is a group based on straight or branched saturated or unsaturated C1-C22 hydrocarbon, and a hydrogen atom, R25 is chosen from:

R29, which is a group based on a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C6 hydrocarbon, and a hydrogen atom, R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from groups based on C7- C21 linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; r, set, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6; y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10; x and z, which can be identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10; X- is a simple or complex, organic or mineral anion; with the proviso that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then Rn denotes R27, and that when z is 0 then R25 denotes R29.

[054] R22 alkyl groups can be linear or branched and, more particularly, linear. In some cases, R22 designates a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly, a methyl or ethyl group. Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10.

[055] When R23 is a hydrocarbon-based group R27, it may be long and contain 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or it may be short and contain 1 to 3 carbon atoms. When R25 is a group based on R29 hydrocarbons, it preferably contains 1 to 3 carbon atoms. Advantageously, R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from groups based on linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C11-C21 hydrocarbons, and more particularly from C11-alkyl and alkenyl groups. C21 linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.

[056] In some cases, x and z, which can be identical or different, have values of 0 or 1. Likewise, in some cases, y is equal to 1. In some cases, r, set, which can be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.

[057] The anion X can be a halide (chloride, bromide or iodide) or an alkyl sulfate, more particularly methyl sulfate. However, it may be made from methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid, such as acetate or lactate, or any other ammonium-compatible anion containing an ester function.

[058] The X- anion is even more particularly methyl chloride or sulfate.

, grupos à base de hidrocarboneto C14 a C22, metila ou etila e um átomo de hidrogênio; R25 é escolhido a partir de:

e um átomo de hidrogênio; R24, R26 e R28, que podem ser idênticos ou diferentes, são escolhidos a partir de grupos baseados em hidrocarbonetos C13-C17 lineares ou ramificados, saturados ou insaturados, e preferivelmente a partir de grupos alquila e alquenila C13-C17 lineares ou ramificados, saturados ou insaturados. Os grupos baseados em hidrocarbonetos são vantajosamente lineares.[059] The use is made more particularly, in the composition according to the invention, of the ammonium salts of formula (VI) in which: R22 denotes a methyl or ethyl group; x and y are equal to 1; z is equal to 0 or 1; r, set are equal to 2; R23 is chosen from:

, C14 to C22 hydrocarbon-based groups, methyl or ethyl and a hydrogen atom; R25 is chosen from:

and a hydrogen atom; R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from groups based on linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 hydrocarbons, and preferably from linear or branched, saturated C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups or unsaturated. The hydrocarbon-based groups are advantageously linear.

[060] There may be mentioned, for example, compounds of formula (VI) such as the salts of diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxymethylammonium and monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium (chloride or methyl sulfate in particular) and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably contain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are more particularly obtained from a vegetable oil, such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these groups may be identical or different.

[061] In certain embodiments, the cationic surfactant may be chosen from cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, hexadecyltrimethylammonium chloride or a mixture thereof.

[062] The amount of cationic surfactant used in the present disclosure can be from about 0.01 to about 5% by weight, about 0.01 to about 4% by weight, about 0.01 to about 3 % by weight, about 0.01 to about 2% by weight, or from about 0.05 to about 5% by weight, about 0.05 to about 4% by weight, about 0.05 to about 3% by weight, about 0.05 to about 2% by weight, or about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, about 0.1 to about 4% by weight, about 0.1 to about 3% by weight, or about 0.1 to about 2% by weight.

[063] The present disclosure further relates to a method of providing UV photoprotection to artificially colored or dyed hair, comprising applying the composition to the hair in order to prevent/minimize hair color fading.

[064] Furthermore, the present disclosure relates to the use of a composition to protect hair or minimize hair damage caused by environmental damage or mechanical actions or chemical damage or heat and the use of a composition to provide UV photoprotection to artificially colored or dyed hair.

[065] The implementation of the present disclosure is provided by way of the following examples. The examples serve to illustrate the technology without being limiting in nature. EXAMPLE 1 (Inventive compositions)

[066] Murumuru butter (m.p. 33 to 35 °C) and bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2 (m.p. around 35 °C) are both solids at room temperature. They were melted together at a temperature of 45 °C. The molten combination of murumuru butter and bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2 was then added to buriti oil, which is a liquid at room temperature. The liquid combination of the three fatty compounds was added to an aqueous solution (water) containing 0.7% cetrimonium chloride or behentrimonium chloride (0.5% by weight of the total composition) at the same temperature of about 45 °C and mixed at 15,000 rpm using an Ultra-Turrax dispersion device, forming a pre-emulsion.

[067] The pre-emulsion was then subjected to a first homogenization at a pressure of 7 x 107 Pa (700 bar), followed by a second homogenization at a pressure of 7 x 106 Pa (70 bar). The first and second homogenizations were repeated for three cycles. After completing the homogenization cycles, the homogenate was cooled in an ice bath at 15 °C. The resulting NLCs had a mean diameter of 160 to 250 nm and a zeta potential of +40 mV and +75 mV. The composition was stable for at least 180 days at room temperature.

[068] Figure 1 shows images obtained by confocal microscopy, showing differences between the particles in the different stages of the manufacturing process. Figure 1(a) is an image of the pre-emulsion; Figure 1(b) is an image after a first homogenization cycle (a first homogenization at a pressure of 7 x 107 Pa (700 bar), followed by a second homogenization at a pressure of 7 x 106 Pa (70 bar)) ; Figure 1(c) is an image after a second cycle of homogenization; and Figure 1(d); it is an image after a third cycle of homogenization. As the homogenization cycles are repeated, the NLCs become smaller and more uniform. Table 2 shows the sizes (nm), polydispersion rate (PDI) and zeta potential (mV) for the various stages. TABLE 1

EXAMPLE 2 (Crystallinity evaluations)

[069] Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC) was used to study the crystallinity of NLCs. Table 1 compares the properties of NLCs with each of the individual lipid components. It reports the melting temperature (Tfusion), crystallization temperature (Tcrist), melting enthalpy (ΔHft^o) and crystallization enthalpy (ΔHcrist). TABLE 2

[070] The data show that the enthalpies of fusion and crystallization of the pure murumuru lipid are much higher than the enthalpy of the NLCs. A higher enthalpy of fusion represents a more internal order, that is, a more rigid crystal structure. NLCs have lower enthalpy and therefore less crystallinity, thus allowing an active agent to be easily trapped within amorphous gaps in the material. Low crystallinity also contributes to improved shelf life because the active ingredient does not separate or “leak” from the NLCs over time.

EXAMPLE 3 (FPS reviews)

[071] Table 3 presents the sun protection factor (SPF) for NLCs with different amounts of oil (buriti oil) and Table 4 shows the SPF for different oils, as reported in the literature. The data in Tables 3 and 4 show that the NLCs of the present invention exhibit higher SPFs than pure buriti oil and other natural oils. The FPS of NLCs is at least 20 (twenty) times higher than the FPS of pure Buriti oil. Thus, NLCs themselves can be used to provide protection from ultraviolet radiation, or they can be used to carry or encapsulate additional ultraviolet light absorbing agents (sun protection agents). TABLE 3

EXEMPLO 4 (Impacto da luz solar na mudança de cor nos cabelos tingidos)

[072] Table 4 provides the sun protection factor (SPF) spectrophotometrically calculated for other oils. TABLE 4

EXAMPLE 4 (Impact of sunlight on color change in dyed hair)

[073] Figures 6 to 8 demonstrate the in vitro results obtained after exposure to UV radiation. The objective was to analyze in the NLC systems 1 to 3 described above the color variation caused by UV exposure, denaturation of the matrix crosslinks and the surface damage caused by UV exposure through scanning electron microscopy (SEM).

[074] In other words, the objective was to analyze the color change after UV exposure. Samples of bleached hair were dyed using a commercial product.

[075] To perform the analysis, the damage caused by the sun was simulated. Accordingly, several cycles of UV exposure and treatment were repeated 10 to 25 times to simulate realistic conditions. During the experiment, the exposure time to UV rays ranged from 100 hours to 250 hours. Untreated hair samples were exposed to UV radiation as a negative control; and hair samples without UV exposure were used as positive controls, and hair samples were treated with different NLC systems.

[076] In Figure 6, the color variation (ΔE) was determined after each treatment in the hair samples, and it was observed that the hair samples treated with NLC had lower values of ΔE, which suggests the protection from fading of the hair samples. Colors.

[077] Figure 7 describes a denaturation of matrix crosslinks. The objective of the DSC test on hair samples was to evaluate the protection of the α-keratin structure of the hair fiber after UV exposure. For this test, bleached hair was used and the same UV exposure process previously explained was applied.

[078] Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC) analysis confirms the effect of UV radiation on hair damage, showing a lower temperature of keratin denaturation, which is a result of increased disorganization of the keratin structure. The values obtained after treatment with NLC suggest a protective effect of NLC in the denaturation of the matrix crosslinks.

[079] Figure 8 reveals the study of the hair surface using Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM). The objective was to evaluate the damage caused by UV exposure. The treated hair samples were analyzed by Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM) to observe the hair surface quality. From the capillary fibers, 5 mm long segments were removed from the central area. For each treated group, photomicrographs were obtained randomly using the ZEISS™ 940-A Scanning Electron Microscope. Figure 8 shows the SEM microscopy obtained after treatment with the end of the experiment by 2000x magnification.

[080] Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM) demonstrates visible damage caused by UV radiation on the surface of the hair, while a remarkable protective effect was conferred in the groups treated with NLC.

EXAMPLE 5 (Hair Care Studies)

[081] The inventive composition (Formula 1) of Example 1 is applied to hair using the following procedure. For each gram of hair, 0.15 grams of the composition of Examples 1 and 2 is applied to hair samples. The composition is spread along the samples from the roots to the ends in a homogeneous way. The composition is then massaged into the hair, running two fingers through the hair five times, without creating knots. If knots form, samples are combed with a wide-toothed comb followed by a fine-toothed comb. The samples are then dried under a dryer at 60°C for ten minutes for each gram of hair.

[082] Figure 2 provides images obtained by confocal microscopy of an untreated hair fiber (Figure 2 (a)) and a hair fiber treated with the NLCs of Example 1 (Figure 2 (b)). Confocal microscopy was performed using a Zeiss LSM 780-NLO confocal on an Axio Observer Z.1 microscope (Carl Zeiss AG, Germany) equipped with a 60x oil immersion lens. NLC with Murumuru butter, Bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2 and Buriti, using cetrimonium chloride as a surfactant, are labeled with a fluorescent dye, Rhodamine-PE, in order to follow the NLC on the surface of the hair. Figure 2(b) shows that the NLCs adhered to the surface of the hair fiber and to some extent penetrated the inside of the hair fiber. This demonstrates that NLCs have high affinity and adherence to hair fibers. Therefore, NLCs are useful for protecting hair from damage, for repairing already damaged hair, and for transporting an active ingredient to or in the hair.

[083] Figures 3(a) and (b) provide images of the NLCs generated by cryomicroscopy and using electron microscopy model JEM-2100 (JEOL, Japan), LaB6, 200KV equipped with an F-416 camera (TVIPS, Germany) 16 MPixel . The figures show the presence of circular particles (NLCs) with a diameter of about 15 to 140 nm. NLCs did not aggregate and maintain that individuality.

[084] Figures 4(a) and (b) provide images obtained by high resolution scanning electron microscopy (SEM). The analyzes were performed under a microscope and JEOL (JSM-6360LV), using an accelerating voltage of 20 kV. SEM images show the difference between untreated hair samples (distilled water wash only) and hair samples that were treated with Murumuru NLC for 2 minutes and then washed with distilled water to remove excess NLC. The images show the difference in the surface of an untreated hair fiber (Figure 4(a)) with the surface of the hair fiber treated with NLCs (Figure 4(b)). Hair fiber treated with NLCs has better surface homogeneity and surface recovery than untreated hair fiber.

[085] Figures 5(a) and (b) are more detailed, close-up (enlarged) images of the capillary fiber surfaces of Figure 4(a) and (b). These images show that the untreated hair fiber has nothing on its surface; while the treated hair fiber has NLCs bound.

[086] The above description illustrates and describes the disclosure. Additionally, the disclosure shows and describes preferred embodiments only, but as mentioned above, it is to be understood that it is capable of use in various other combinations, modifications and environments and is capable of alterations or modifications within the scope of the concepts of the invention, as expressed herein, commensurate with the above teachings and/or skill or knowledge of the relevant art. The embodiments described above are further intended to explain the best modes known to the Applicant and to allow others skilled in the art to use the disclosure in such or other embodiments and with the various modifications required by particular applications or uses thereof. Therefore, the description is not intended to limit the invention as disclosed herein. Furthermore, the appended claims are intended to be constructed to include alternative embodiments.

[087] As used herein, the terms "comprising", "having" and "including" are used in their open, non-limiting sense.

[088] The terms “a”, “an” and “the” are understood to encompass both the plural and the singular.

[089] The expression “at least one” means one or more and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.

[090] All ranges and values disclosed herein are inclusive and combinable. For example, any value or point described herein that falls within a range described herein may serve as a minimum or maximum value for deriving a sub-range, etc.

[091] Unlike operational examples, or when otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing amounts of ingredients and/or reaction conditions may be modified in all cases by the term “about”, meaning within 10% of the indicated number ( for example "about 10%" means 9% to 11% and "about 2%" means 1.8% to 2.2%), such as within 9%, 8%, 7%, 6%, 5 %, 4%, 3%, 2% or 1%, according to various embodiments. "Keratinous substrates" or "keratinous materials" as used herein include, but are not limited to, keratin fibers such as hair on the human head and hair comprising eyelashes. "Keratinous substrates" or "keratinous materials" as used herein may also refer to the skin such as the lips, fingernails or toenails and scalp. As used herein, the term "applying a composition on "keratinous substrates" includes applying a composition on "keratinous substrates" or "keratin materials" such as hair on a human head with at least one of the compositions of the disclosure, in any manner.

[092] All publications and patent applications cited in this specification are incorporated herein by reference and for any and all purposes, as if each individual publication or patent application were specifically and individually indicated to be incorporated by reference. In the event of an inconsistency between the present disclosure and any publication or patent application incorporated herein by reference, the present disclosure stands alone.

Claims (19)

1. PROCESS FOR THE PREPARATION OF NANOSTRUCTURED LIPID VEHICLES (NLCs), characterized in that it comprises: (i) combining murumuru seed butter and bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2; (ii) heating the combination of murumuru seed butter and bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2 to a temperature above their melting temperatures and melting the combination; (iii) combining the molten combination of (ii) with an oil; (iv) adding the combination of (iii) to a mixture of water and a cationic surfactant; (v) subjecting the product of (iv) to a homogenization process; (vi) cooling the homogenate; and (vii) obtaining NLCs. Process according to claim 1, characterized in that: - the amount of murumuru butter is from 0.5 to 15% by weight, - the amount of bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2 is from 0.3 to 10% by weight and - the amount of the oil being from 0.01 to 20% by weight, wherein the % by weight is based on the total weight of the homogenate. 3. PROCESS, according to claim 1, characterized in that the cationic surfactant is selected from the group consisting of behenalkonium chloride, benzethonium chloride, cetylpyridinium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, lauralkonium chloride, cetalkonium chloride, cetrimonium, cetrimonium chloride, cetylamine hydrofluoride, chloralylmethenamine chloride (Quatemium-15), distearyldimethonium chloride (Quternium-5), dodecyl dimethyl ethylbenzyl ammonium chloride (Quternium-14), Quaternium-22, Quaternium-26, Quaternium- 18 hectorite, dimethylaminoethylchloride hydrochloride, cysteine hydrochloride, POE (10) diethanolammonium ether phosphate, POE diethanolammonium (3) olethyl ether phosphate, tallow alkonia chloride, dimethyl dioctadecylammonium bentonite, stearalkonium chloride, domiphene bromide, denatonium benzoate, myristalkonium chloride, laurtrimonium chloride, ethylenediamine dihydrochloride, guanidine hydrochloride, pyridoxine HCl, yophetamine hydrochloride, c meglumine hydrochloride, methylbenzethonium chloride, mytrimonium bromide, oleyltrimonium chloride, polyquaternium-1, procaine hydrochloride, cocobetaine, stearalkonium bentonite, stearalkonium hectonite, stearyl trihydroxyethyl propylenediamine dihydrofluoride, tallow trimmonium chloride, hexadecyltrimethyl ammonium bromide, sodium chloride hexadecyltrimethylammonium or mixtures thereof. 4. PROCESS, according to claim 3, characterized in that the cationic surfactant is cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, hexadecyltrimethylammonium chloride or a mixture thereof. Process according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the ratio of the amount of murumuru seed butter and the amount of bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2 is 1.5 : 1 to 4 : 1. Process according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the amount of bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2 is greater than the amount of oil. 7. PROCESS, according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the oil is buriti oil, coconut oil, Brazil nut oil, passion fruit oil, andiroba oil, açaí oil, argan oil, oil avocado oil, chamomile oil, sunflower oil or a combination thereof. 8. Process according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the oil is buriti oil. 9. NANOSTRUCTURED LIPID VEHICLES (NLCs), characterized in that they are obtained by the process, as defined in any one of claims 1 to 8. 10. NANOSTRUCTURED LIPID VEHICLES (NLCs) characterized in that they comprise murumuru seed butter; bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2; oil and cationic surfactant. 11. NANOSTRUCTURED LIPID VEHICLES (NLCs) according to any one of claims 9 to 10, characterized in that the murumuru seed butter is 0.5 to 15% by weight; the amount of bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2 is from 0.3 to 10% by weight, and the amount of oil is from 0.01 to 20% by weight. 12. NANOSTRUCTURED LIPID VEHICLES (NLCs) according to any one of claims 9 to 10, characterized in that the ratio of the amount of murumuru seed butter to the amount of bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2 is 1.5: 1 to 4: 1 13. COSMEEUTIC COMPOSITION, characterized in that it comprises the NLCs obtained by the process, as defined in any one of claims 1 to 8. 14. COSMETIC COMPOSITION, characterized in that it comprises the NLCs obtained by the process, as defined in any one of claims 1 to 8. 15. HAIR CARE COMPOSITION, characterized in that it comprises the NLCs obtained by the process, as defined in any one of claims 1 to 8. 16. METHOD FOR PROTECTING HAIR or minimizing damage to hair caused by environmental damage or mechanical actions or chemical damage or heat, characterized by applying the composition as defined in any one of claims 13 to 15 to the hair. A METHOD FOR PROVIDING UV PHOTOPROTECTION to artificially colored or dyed hair, comprising applying the composition as defined in any one of claims 13 to 15 to the hair in order to prevent/minimize the fading of the hair color. 18. USE OF A COMPOSITION as defined in any one of claims 13 to 15, characterized in that it is to protect hair or minimize damage to hair caused by environmental damage or mechanical actions or chemical damage or heat. 19. USE OF A COMPOSITION, as defined in any one of claims 13 to 15, characterized in that it is to provide UV photoprotection to colored or artificially dyed hair.

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