BG60848B1 - Biologically active substance for cosmetic preparations - Google Patents

Abstract

The remedy is available in cosmetic preparations such as creams and cleansing rolls and a nourishing face mask and hair emulsion. It has an extended range of action, it is stable and it has good thermal resistance during long-term storage. Contains the following ingredients in wt. %: collagen lyophilisate 0.20-2.00; hydroelastine 0.50-3.00, dk 0.50-3.00, vitamin 0.05-1.00 and rose water from 10.00 to 30.00.

Description

The invention relates to a biologically active agent that can be used for the preparation of cosmetic preparations for skin and hair.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

Cosmetics containing collagen are known (patent FR 2 498 929), which is the most important connective tissue protein and, due to its ability to exist in various forms, it almost completely determines the condition and type of skin and hair. With age, the amount of soluble collagen in the skin decreases, leading to a decrease in its elasticity, flexibility and wrinkle formation. With the ability to act as a moisturizer as well as a stimulant for newly formed collagen fibers, collagen is required for cosmetics.

Cosmetics containing elastin are known (patent US 4 327 078). Suitable for cosmetics are low molecular weight elastin hydrolysates, which have an affinity for the skin and hair, are easily absorbed by them, retain and exert a protective function against detergents and aggressive external influences. Elastin hydrolysates improve skin condition, appearance, flexibility, smoothness and make hair more resistant to swelling due to alkali.

The use of deoxyribonucleic acid (DNA) as an active substance against skin cell aging is also known. DNA as a natural polymer has a definite absorption spectrum with respect to ultraviolet (UV) rays and has sunscreen properties (patent GB 2511243).

2.

Vitamin E is known as an essential vitamin that stabilizes cell membranes (David Djerassi “Vitamin E: Biochemical Function, The Role in Cosmetics” DCI, Jun 26, 1986). It improves blood circulation and has antioxidant action.

The use of rose water in cosmetics is known for its anti-inflammatory, antiseptic and tonic properties.

Collagen hydrolysis (patent BG 51940) is known, suitable for use in the perfumery and cosmetic industry, obtained by hydrolysis of leather waste. Hydrolyzate is a commercially available product that is lyophilized as needed.

All cosmetics, which include collagen, elastin, DNA, vitamin E alone, have the disadvantage that they can partially and unilaterally affect the condition of the skin and hair. Therefore, cosmetic products have a lower trophic, regenerating, moisturizing and stimulating effect on the skin.

There was a problem to create a biologically active agent for cosmetics with improved biological activity and cosmetic effect, providing total and complete hydration, stimulation and regeneration of the skin and hair.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The essence of the invention is that a biologically active agent is created which contains, in wt%, as an active ingredient: collagen lyophilisate (with a molecular weight of 1000 to 3000) from 0.2 to 2 _{g of} 0, hydroelastin from 0.5 to 3.0, deoxyribonucleic acid from 0.5 to 3.0, vitamin E from 0.05 to 1.0, rose water from 10.0 to 30.0.

The combination of these biologically active substances in the cosmetic agent leads to mutual potentiation of their effect on the skin and hair. The synergistic effect of the combination was confirmed by the practical and clinical trials shown in Table 2.

3.

Biologically active substances of natural origin are used which are subjected to special pre-treatment - membrane filtration, lyophilization to preserve and stabilize their activity, etc.

Collagen hydrolyzate activates the metabolism of connective tissue and stimulates the formation of new collagen fibrils. It is an effective cosmetic moisturizer that improves skin turgor. In addition to cell regeneration, collagen helps to activate the metabolism of hair building blocks and exerts a protective effect on damaged keratin of the hair. The collagen hydrolyzate component used in the composition was obtained by hydrolysis of leather waste. The hydrolyzate can be prepared from both non-digested and partially digested leather waste (patent BG 51940). According to the present invention, the composition includes lyophilized pre-collagen hydrolyzate.

Hydroelastin imparts highly elastic properties to the skin and hair, compensating for the loss and aging of its own elastin. It is also a natural moisturizer that stimulates blood circulation. In combination with collagen hydrolyzate, it stimulates the formation of procollagen.

The DNA has an absorbance spectrum for the Y B rays from the region of 200300 pt, in connection with which it exerts a photo-protective effect on the skin. This biological complex molecule strengthens the lysosomal membranes of cells, synergizes with vitamin E as an antioxidant against unsaturated fatty acids. As a natural hydrophilic polymer, it has high capacity water retention properties.

Vitamin E improves skin blood circulation and, in conjunction with rose water, has an anti-inflammatory, antiseptic and tonic effect on the skin.

4.

The action of the whole composition according to the invention activates the collagen formation, maintains the skin's moisturization and elasticity, and provides photo-protective and antioxidant action. The activity is determined by the methodology of standardization documentation OH 0269816-85.

The biologically active agent according to the invention is applied in the form of cosmetic preparations: face creams day, night, massage, cleaning roll Face mask, nourishing face mask, emulsion for hair.

The cosmetic preparations according to the invention are produced by a technology whereby pre-lyophilized collagen, hydroelastin, DNA, vitamin E are added to the emulsified, homogenized and cooled to 40-45 ° C mass of excipients of emulsifiers, hydrating agents, antioxidants, perfumers, perfumers at pH = 4.8-5.8 medium.

The advantages of the biologically active agent according to the invention are that a wider range of biological activity is obtained; the incorporation of freeze-dried active ingredients enhances the stability and heat resistance of the agent; potentiated effect on skin cells and on hair. In addition, the technology is non-waste, there are no hazardous components for environmental pollution and waste resulting from the washing of the homogenizing equipment and the storage vessels go to the city sewer.

Examples of carrying out the invention

Example 1

Preparation of day cream (% by weight): Carbopol 940 (high molecular weight carboxyvinyl polymer in acid form) 0 * 50, cetyl alcohol 1,50, stearin 3,0, triethanolamine 0 _; 50, collagen lyophilisate 0.60, hydroelastin 1.00, rose water 10.00, vitamin E 0.06, nipagin 0 _f 20, range 0 ^ 10, bronopol 0.05, perfume composition (PC) 0.50, water up to 100 .

5.

A pre-weighed amount of the oil phase is loaded into a stainless steel melting pot equipped with a steam jacket and a stirrer. With gradual stirring, heat to 75 ° C until complete dissolution of the solid components. The liquid phase was simultaneously heated to 75 ° C.

In the homogenizer machine, 80% of the water is dosed. The weighted Carbopol 940 emulsifier is added, the homogenizer and heating are switched on and broken down to obtain a smooth homogeneous mass. By creating a vacuum in the homogenizing machine, the molten and heated to 75 ° C oil phase is transferred and then the aqueous phase is added to it. The emulsification was continued for 10 minutes under vacuum. Cooling is started and the homogenizer stops. At 45 ° C, the biologically active agent is added. The cooling was continued to a temperature of 25-30 ° C. During emulsification and cooling the system is under vacuum. The finished product is removed at a pressure of 0.8-1 atm. It is submitted for packaging after approval by the analytical and microbiological laboratory.

The day cream slows down the aging process of the skin by actively moisturizing it, activating collagen formation, maintaining its highly elastic properties and enhancing photo-protective effect.

Example 2

Preparation of day cream (% by weight): Collagen lyophilisate 2.00, hydroelastin 0.50, vitamin E 1.00, rose water 30.00, Carbopol 940 0.80, cetyl alcohol 2.20, stearin 2.50 , triethanolamine 0.50, nipagine 0.30, nipazol 0.20, bronopol 0.05, perfume composition 0 ₇ 90, water to 100.

The day cream was prepared using the same technology as in Example 1.

6.

Example 3

Preparation of Night Cream (% by weight): Emulsifier AM - 113MD 12.00, liquid paraffin 15.00, isooctyl stearate 6.00, sunflower oil 1.50, gene atopol 2.00, propylene glycol 6.00, collagen lyophilisate 0 , 30, DNA 2.00, hydroelastin 2.00, vitamin E 0.05, rose water 20.00, nipagin 0.20, nipazol 0.10, bronopol 0.05, perfume composition 0.40, antioxidant complex 0.15, water to 100.

The night cream was prepared using the same technology as in Example 1.

Night Cream maintains the elastic properties of the skin, activates collagen formation, and actively moisturizes it.

Example 4

Preparation of night cream (% by weight): Collagen lyophilisate 1.50, DNA 3.00, hydroelastin 3.00, vitamin E 0.80, rose water 25.00, emulsifier AM 12.00, liquid paraffin 15.00 , isooctyl stearate 6.00, sunflower oil 2.00, genatopol 2.00, propylene glycol 6.00, nipagin 0.20, nipazol 0.10, bronopol 0., 10, perfume composition 0.50, antioxidant complex 0.15, water up to 100.

The night cream was prepared using the same technology as in Example 1.

Example 5

Preparation of massage cream (% by weight): Liquid paraffin 30.00, sunflower oil 6.00, isooctyl stearate 3.00, petroleum jelly 33.00, solid paraffin 1.50, beeswax 1.50, anhydrous linolin 2 , 50, St. John's wort oil extract 4.00, magnesium stearate 0.80, aluminum stearate 0.40, camphor synthetic 0.80, vitamin E 0.12, collagen lyophilisate 0.25, hydroelastin 1.50, DNA 1 ^ 0, antioxidant complex 0,10, nipagin 0,20, nipagol 0,10, perfume composition 0,9, water up to 100.

Ί.

The preparation of the massage cream was performed in the same manner as in Example 1.

The massage cream is intended for even more active impact on the skin compared to other preparations in the series.

Example 6

Preparation of cleaning roll mask mask (% by weight): Carbopol 940 0.40, triethanolamine 0.40, ethyl alcohol 10.00, polyethylene glycol 400 3.00, PVC onroville 12.00, DNA 1.00, collagen lyophilisate 0.20 , hydroelastin 1.00, rose water 15.00, bronopol 0.05, nipagin 0.20, range 0D0, water up to 100.

The preparation of the cleaning roll mask is performed using the technology described in Example 1.

The peculiarity here is that PVC ongrovil (granules) is applied after the bioactive phase and the whole mixture is well homogenized.

Example 7

Preparation of nourishing face mask (% by weight):

This cosmetic preparation consists of two parts - a powder mixture and a liquid mixture in an ampoule.

The powder mixture contains by weight. %: calcium carbonate 20.00, medical talc 57.55, kaolin fine milled 15.00, zinc oxide 4.00, titanium dioxide 2.50, collagen hydrolyzate 0.20, nipagin 0.20, nipazol 0.10, bronopol 0.05, vitamin C (substance) 0.20, allantoin 0.20.

Liquid mixture in ampoule by weight. %: hydroelastin 2.00, DNA 2.00, rose water natural 15.00, vitamin E 0D0, propylene glycol 0.05, distilled water up to 100.

The mask is prepared immediately before use, mixing 1/6 of the well-homogenized powder mass homogeneously with liquid from one of the ampoules. Apply in a uniform layer of face.

8.

The mask protects the cellular aging of the skin and provides a hydrophilic effect.

Example 8

Preparation of hair emulsion (% by weight): Emulsifier AM-152 3.00, liquid paraffin 13 _; 00, stearin 1.00, cetyl alcohol 0.50, sunflower oil 2.00, antioxidant complex 0.D0, Carbopol 940 0.20, triethanolamine 0 _; 20, propylene glycol 3 _A 00, collagen lyophilisate 1.00, DNA 2.00, hydroelastin 2.00, nipagin 0.20, range 0) 10, rose water 15.00, bronopol 0.05, perfume composition 0) 50, water distilled up to 100.

The preparation of the emulsion is performed using the technology described in Example 1 and is a universal means of stimulating normal and worn hair. Serves as a nourishing hair mask.

Example 9

Biological activity of the biologically active cosmetic product

The following Table 1 presents the results of a study of the biological activity of the composition prepared according to the invention, which demonstrate its synergistic activity. The activity is determined by the following methodology:

Biogenic stimulants, which are in combination with collagen, hydroelastin, deoxyribonucleic acid (DNA), vitamin E and rose water, activate bread yeast, which consumes more glucose than nutrients for growth. Reducing the amount of glucose in the nutrient medium is a measure of the biological activity of the product. Activity is calculated as a percentage using the following formula:

(A-B). 100

X = ------- W. in which

9.

X stands for biostimulating activity in percent;

A is the glucose content in grams (g) contained in the control sample (the control sample contains a yeast suspension and culture medium);

B - glucose content in grams (g) in the test sample;

B - glucose content in grams (g) in the blank (blank contains no yeast suspension);

t - mass of the sample cream taken for analysis in grams (g).

Table 1 Comparative tests for the biological activity of the composition according to the invention

Samples Biostimulating activity, in% 1. Hydrating-regenerating cream with 2% collagen 0.42 2. Hydro atyr-as-regenerating cream with 3% hydroelastin 0.39 3. Hydrating-regenerating cream with 3% DNA 0.22 4. Moisturizing cream with 1% Vitamin E and 20% rose water 0.18 5. Moisturizing cream with 3% hydroelastin and 3% DNA 1.04 6. Super Active Cream (according to the invention) with 0.2% collagen, 0.6% hydroelastin, 0.5% DNA, 0.05% vitamin E and 10% rose water 1.51 7. Superactive cream (according to the invention) with 2% collagen, 3% hydroelastin, 3% DNA, 1% vitamin E and 30% rose water 1.65

10.

Example 10

Microbiological and clinical studies

The following Table 2 presents the results of microbiological and clinical studies of cosmetics.

MS

Clinical trial results of cosmetics

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Continuation of Table 2

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13.

Claims (1)

Patent Claims What is claimed is: 1. A biologically active cosmetic composition, characterized in that it contains, by weight,%: collagen lyophilisate with a molecular weight of from 1000 to 3000 from 0.20 to 2 _; 00, hydroelastin from 0.50 to 3 _; 00, deoxyribonucleic acid from 0.50 to 3.00, vitamin E from 0.05 to 1.00, rose water from 10.00 to 30.00.