AU777289B2 - Hair compositions comprising at least an adhesive polymer and solid particles - Google Patents

Description

HAIR COMPOSITIONS COMPRISING AT LEAST ONE ADHESIVE POLYMER AND SOLID PARTICLES The invention relates to hair compositions comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one adhesive polymer and solid particles. The invention also relates to a cosmetic process using this composition and its use for making a hair cosmetic composition.

In the sense of the invention, "hair styling product" is a product intended for maintaining and/or fixing hair shape.

Products intended for giving aesthetic effects such as colouring effect, shining effect or shaping effect., to hair, are known. Currently used products are based on the use of molecules that are solubilized or in an emulsion or dispersion in a cosmetic solvent. Emulsions or dispersions include latexes which are polymers in dispersion.

It is also well known that some cosmetic effects such as make-up can be obtained by using solid particles. Thus, pigments are used to give colour to lipsticks, nail polish or mascara.

Such particles are not practically used in hair cosmetics because they induce an unpleasant rough touch. Moreover, the particles deposited on hair do not remain stuck on the strands. It is observed that they come off from the hair on the .lightest conntact, for instance when running the hand k ir.. Gravity alone IUI III II llII 1 Il'll eVILY C II also can detach the particles. The consequences are disastrous because, on the one hand, the desired aesthetic effect is ephemeral, and on the other, the particles may stain the hands or clothes, which is particularly detrimental if they are coloured or bright.

Research efforts have made it possible to solve part of these problems. The best solution to date is to associate the particles with fatty substances. The par- 3 tidcles then no longer fall under their own weight. However, they still easily come off from the strands when rubbed, and there are also problems arising from the use of fatty substances, such as bad cosmetic properties, a fatty touch and a dirty look.

Attempts have been made to associate the particles with polymers such as those commonly used in hair fixers. However, such an association does not enable the aforementioned problems to be solved.

In a surprising and unexpected manner, the applicant discovered that when solid particles were associated with certain polymers having a particular adhesive strength, it was possible to obtain hair cosmetic compositions that met the requirements mentioned above.

The invention relates to a hair cosmetic composition comprising solid particles in a cosmetically acceptable medium, characterised in that it also comprises at least one adhesive polymer selected in such a manner that the material resulting from the drying of this or these adhesive polymer(s) in the cosmetically acceptable medium has a release profile defined by at least a maximum release force F,,ax greater than 1N.

20 The invention also relates to a hair cosmetic process characterized in that such a composition is applied on hair.

The invention also relates to the use of such a composition for making a hair styling, hair colouring, hair shining or hair conditioning composition, and hair cosmetic products containing this composition.

Preferred adhesive polymers are selected in such a manner that the material resulting o from the drying of this or these adhesive polymer(s) in the cosmetically acceptable medium has a glass transition temperature (Tg) lower than +10 0 C and a release profile 30 defined by at least: a maximum release force F,x 1 newton and when said temperature Tg is lower than -15°C, by a separation energy Es(MN) of the material placed in contact with a glass surface, lower than 300 p.

The adhesive polymer particularly suitable for this invention is the branched sulphonic polymer AQ 1350 marketed by the company Eastman Kodak. This polymer AQ 1350 is defined by: \\melbfiles\hoteS\ehonal\Keep\SPECI\59908-OO speci.doc 20/08/04 4 a Tg of 0OC a maximum release force Fmax equal to 23 newtons.

According to the present invention, "maximum release force Fmax" is the maximum pulling force, measured by means of an extensometer, required to detach surfaces of 38 mm 2 of two rigid, inert, non-absorbing supports and placed opposite each other; said two surfaces being coated beforehand with a composition consisting of the adhesive polymer(s) in the cosmetically acceptable medium, at the rate of 53/c pg/mm 2 dried for 24 hours at 22 0 C under a relative humidity of 50%, then subjected to compression at 3 newtons for 20 seconds, and finally, subjected to pulling for seconds at the rate of 20 mm/min, c being the concentration of dry matter in the composition made up from the adhesive polymer(s) in the cosmetically acceptable medium, expressed in gram per gram of the composition.

Preferably, supports and made of polyethylene, polypropylene, a metal alloy or glass are used.

The maximum release force Fmax is preferably greater than 2.5 N.

o 20 Advantageously, the ratio of the relative weight concentrations of the polymer(s) to that of the solid particles in the hair cosmetic composition is in the range from 0.05 to and preferably in the range from 0.15 to According to a preferred form of embodiment of the invention, the adhesive polymers have a glass transition temperature lower than 10 0

C.

According to the present invention, "separation energy Es(MV)" is the energy supplied by the extensometer to detach surfaces of 39 mm 2 of two rigid, inert, non-absorbing supports and placed opposite each other; one of said supports being made of polished glass, and the other of the supports being of an identical nature with the aforementioned supports and and having its surface being coated with the composition of a concentration in dry matter c, at the rate of 53c pg/mm 2 on the support, dried for 24 hours at 22 0 C under a relative humidity of 50%, the surfaces of said supports and being then subjected for 20 seconds to compression at 3 newtons, and then subjected for 30 seconds to pulling at the rate of 20 mm/minute, c being the concentration in dry matter in the composition, in gram per gram of composition.

\\melbfiles\home$\ehonal\Keep\SPECI\59908-00 specidoc 20/08/04 5 This energy supplied by the extensometer is the energy calculated by the following formula: Xs2 fF(x)dx Xs+o0.05 in which F(x) is the force required to produce a displacement Xsi is the displacement (expressed in millimetres) produced by the maximum pulling force;

XS

2 is the displacement (expressed in millimetres) produced by the pulling force which enables the surfaces of the aforementioned two supports and to be completely separated.

According to the invention, as solid particles, shells, small plates, specks, fibrils or powders are preferably used. The particles may be organic or mineral or made up of organic and mineral constituents. Examples are melanin or synthetic pigments resulting from the polymerisation of indole or indoline derivatives such as 5,6-dihydroxyindole or 5,6-dihydroxyindoline.

Pigments suitable for the present invention are selected among all the organic or 20 mineral pigments which do not result from oxidative polymerisation of cosmetically and dermatologically acceptable indole derivatives.

They may be in the form of powder or pigmentary paste.

2 5 Examples of mineral pigments are titanium dioxide (rutile or anatase) possibly surfaceteatev and codiied in the Coo iiidex tuier iefereiice iiiiiei Cl 77891, black, yellow red and brown iron oxides codified under reference numbers Cl 77499, 77492, 77491; manganese violet (Cl 77742); ultramarine blue (Cl 77007); hydrated oxide of chromium (Cl 77289); iron blue (Cl 77510).

Examples of organic pigments are the pigment YELLOW 3 which is commercially available under the trade name "JAUNE COVANOR W 1603" from the company WACKHERR (Cl 17710), "D C RED No. 19" (Cl 45170), "D C RED No. 9" (Cl 15585), "D C RED No. 21" (Cl 45380), "D C ORANGE No. 4" (Cl 15510), "D \\melb_filea\home$\shonal\Keep\SPECI\59908-00 speci.doc 20/08/04 6 C ORANGE No. 5" (Cl 45370), "D C RED No. 27" (Cl 45410), "D C RED No.

13" (Cl 15630), "D C RED No. 7" (Cl 15850-1), "D C RED No. 6" (Cl 15850-2), "D C YELLOW No. 5" (Cl 19140), "D C RED No. 36" (Cl 12085), "D C ORANGE No. 10" (Cl 45425), "D C YELLOW No. 6" (Cl 15985), "D C RED No. 30" (Cl 73360), "D C RED No. 3" (Cl 45430), carbon black (Cl 77266), and cochineal carmine-based lacquers (Cl 75470).

It is also possible to use pearly pigments which may be selected among white pearly pigments such as titanium oxide coated muca, bismuth oxide; coloured pigments such as titanmica with iron oxides, titanmica with iron blue or chromium oxide, titanmica with a precipitated organic pigment, as well as those based on bismuth oxychloride.

More particularly use is made of pigmentary pastes of organic pigments such as the products marketed by the company HOECHST under the names:

S

*5S S JAUNE COSMENYL 10G: JAUNE COSMENYL G: ORANGE COSMENYL GR: ROUGE COSMENYL R°: 20 CARMIN COSMENYL FB: VIOLET COSMENYL RL: BLEU COSMENYL A2R: VERT COSMENYL GG: NOIR COSMENYL R: Pigment YELLOW 3 (Cl 11710) Pigment YELLOW 1 (Cl 11680) Pigment ORANGE 432 (Cl 71105) Pigment RED 4 (Cl 12085) Pigment RED 5 (Cl 12490) Pigment VIOLET 23 (Cl 51319) Pigment BLUE 15.1 (Cl 74160) Pigment GREEN 7 (Cl 74260) Pigment BLACK 7 (Cl 77266) The particles advantageously have a size smaller than 1 mm, and preferably a size smaller than 100 p.m, or more preferably, a size smaller than 30 pm.

In the sense of the invention, "particle size" is the maximum dimension which can be measured between two opposite points of the particle. The size may be determined by electron microscopy.

The particles can generate various cosmetic effects, for example: effects resulting from interaction with light: colouring, brightening effect, scintillating effect, diffusing light, diffracting, filtering or matifying.

mechanical or physico-chemical effects: reinforcing strands, uniting close strands, softening effect, anti-wetting effect, limiting water uptake from moisture or washings.

\\melbfies\home$\ehonal\Keep\SPECI\59908-00 speci.doc 20/08/04 7 In the compositions according to the invention, the relative weight concentration of the adhesive polymer is preferably in the range from 0.05 to 30%, more preferably from 0.1 to 20%, and most preferably from 0.2 to 10%. The relative weight concentration of the solid particles is preferably in the range from 0.1 to 50%, more preferably from 0.5 to and most preferably from 1 to The compositions according to the invention preferably contain an organic solvent selected from the group consisting of Ci to C 4 alcohols such as ethanol or 0 0 \\melbfiles\hone$\shonal\Keep\SPECI\5990B-OO speci.doc 20/08/04 isopropanol, C5 to C10 alkanes, acetone, methylethylketone, methyl acetate, butyl acetate, ethyl acetate, dimethoxyethane, diethoxyethane and their mixtures.

Additionally, they may contain common cosmetic additives selected from reducing agents such as thiols, silanes such as aminopropyltriethoxysilane, fatty substances, thickening agents, softening agents, antifoaming agents, moisturisers, antisweat agents, alkalinizing agents, colouring agents, perfumes, preservative agents, surfactants, fixing or non-fixing polymers, volatile or non-volatile silicones, especially anionic silicones, polyols, proteins and vitamins.

The compositions according to the invention may be packaged in various forms, especially in an aerosol device.

The invention can be better understood by means of the following non-limiting examples which are the preferred forms of use of the process according to the invention.

In the examples percentages are expresed in weight.

EXAMPLES

Example 1: Compositions containing specks A composition in accordance with the invention and containing solid particles and an adhesive polymer defined by a maximum release force greater than 1 N is compared with compositions not in accordance wiih iMe irnveinion anrd containing the same solid particles but no adhesive polymer in the sense of the invention.

Composition 1 (invention) AQ 1350 (EASTMAN KODAK) Reflecting specks (2) Jaguar HP 60(') Dimineralised water 4g Sg qs 100 g hydroxypropyl guar marketed by Rhodiachimie marketed under the trade name Timiron Color Violet by Merck.

Composition 2 (prior art) Reflecting specks (2) Jaguar HP 60(') Demineralised water Sg qs 100 g Composition 3 (prior art) Reflecting specks (2) Glycerol Demineralised water 4g qs 100 g The three compositions are applied on natural brown air strands at the rate of 1 g of composition per 5 g of hair. The strands are left standing for 30 seconds.

Subsequently, the quality of the three strands is evaiualed.

It is observed that the strand treated with composition 1 has, in contrast to the strand treated by composition 3, a natural and soft touch. The strand treated with composition 3 has a fatty and less pleasant touch. It is also observed that the strand treated with composition 1 resists better to movements than the specks of the other strands treated with compositions 2 and 3.

Example 2: Composition containing pigments Composition 4 in accordance with the invention is made.

Composition 4 (invention) AQ 1350 (EASTMAN KODAK) Pigment (3) Jaguar HP 60(1) Demineralised water lg qs 100 g marketed by Kohnstamm under the name Ultramarine Blue A 4575.

Composition 4 is applied on a grey natural hair strand (90% white) at the rate of 1 g of composition per 5 g of hair. The strand is left standing for 30 seconds.

Subsequently, the quality of the strand is evaluated.

It is observed that the strand treated with composition 4 has a natural and soft touch. It is also observed that the blue colour obtained resists very well to the movements of the strand and when the strand is rubbed, the colour resists very well.

lOa In the claims which follow and in the preceding description of the invention, except where the context requires otherwise due to express language or necessary implication, the word "comprise" or variations such as "comprises" or "comprising" is used in an inclusive sense, i.e. to specify the presence of the stated features but not to preclude the presence or addition of further features in various embodiments of the invention.

*g \\elbfiles\homeS\shonal\Keep\SPECI\59908-0O speci.doc 20/08/04

Claims (21)

1. A hair cosmetic composition comprising solid particles in a cosmetically acceptable medium characterised in that it also contains one adhesive polymer selected in such a manner that the material resulting from the drying of this or these adhesive polymer(s) in the cosmetically acceptable medium has a release profile defined by at least a maximum release force Fmax greater than IN.

2. A composition as claimed in claim 1, characterised in that the "maximum release force Fax" is the maximum pulling force, measured by means of an extensometer, required to detach surfaces of 38 mm 2 of two rigid, inert, non-absorbing supports and placed opposite each other; said two surfaces being coated beforehand with a composition consisting of the adhesive polymer(s) in the cosmetically acceptable medium, at the rate of 53/c ig/mm 2 dried for 24 hours at 22 0 C under a relative humidity of 50%, then subjected to compression at 3 newtons for seconds, and finally, subjected to pulling for 30 seconds at the rate of 20 mm/min, c being the concentration of dry matter in the composition made up from the adhesive polymer(s) in the cosmetically acceptable medium, expressed in gram per gram of the composition.

3. A composition as claimed in claim 2, characterised in that the supports and are made of polyethylene, polypropylene, a metal alloy or glass.

4. A composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterised in that the maximum release force Fmax is greater than 2.5 N.

5. A composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterised in o that the material resulting from the drying of this or these adhesive polymer(s) in the cosmetically acceptable medium has a glass transition temperature (Tg) lower than 30 +10 0 C and a release profile defined by at least: a maximum release force Fmax 1 newton and when said temperature Tg is lower than -15 0 C, by a separation energy Es(Miv) of the material placed in contact with a glass surface, lower than 300 IJ.

6. A composition as claimed in claim 5, characterised in that the "separation energy is the energy supplied by the extensometer to detach surfaces of 38 mm 2 of two rigid, inert, non-absorbing supports and placed opposite each other; one \\melbfies\heS$\shonal\Keep\SPECI\59908-00 speci.doc 20/08/04 12 of said supports being made of polished glass, and the other of the supports being of an identical nature with the aforementioned supports and and having its surface being coated with the composition of a concentration in dry matter c, at the rate of 53c Pg/mm 2 on the support, dried for 24 hours at 22 0 C under a relative humidity of the surfaces of said supports and being then subjected for 20 seconds to compression at 3 newtons, and then subjected for 30 seconds to pulling at the rate of mm/minute, c being the concentration in dry matter in the composition, in gram per gram of composition.

7. A composition as claimed in claim 6, characterised in that the energy supplied by the extensometer is the work calculated by the following formula: XS2 fF(x)dx XsI+0.05 in which F(x) is the force required to produce a displacement Xs, is the displacement (expressed in millimeters) produced by the maximum pulling force; Xs2 is the displacement (expressed in millimeters) produced by the pulling force which enables the surfaces of the aforementioned two supports and to be completely separated.

8. A composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterised in that the solid particles are selected from a group consisting of shells, small plates, specks, fibrils or powders. 25 9. A composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterised in Mat aL lCICSl ItLaVe size i, lllill l llll I llllIl. A composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterised in that particles have a size smaller than 100 pnm.

11. A composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterised in that particles have a size smaller than 30 pm.

12. A composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterised in 12. A composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterised in \\melb-files\homeS\ohonal\Keep\SPECI\59908-00 speci.doc 20/08/04 13 that the relative weight concentration of the adhesive polymer is in the range from 0.05 to

13. A composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterised in that the relative weight concentration of the adhesive polymer is in the range from 0.1 to

14. A composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterised in that the relative weight concentration of the adhesive polymer is in the range from 0.2 to A composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterised in that the relative weight concentration of the solid particles is in the range from 0.1 to

16. A composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterised in that the relative weight concentration of the solid particles is in the range from 0.5 to 4O 20 17. A composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterised in that the relative weight concentration of the solid particles is in the range from 1 to 4

18. A composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterised in that it contains an organic solvent selected from the group consisting of C 1 to C 4 alcohols such as ethanol or isopropanol, C 5 to Clo alkanes, acetone, methylethylketone, o. methyl acetate, butyl acetate, ethyl acetate, dimethoxyethane, diethoxyethane and their mixtures. 0 30 19. A composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterised in that it also contains common cosmetic additives selected from reducing agents such as thiols, silanes such as aminopropyltriethoxysilane, fatty substances, thickening agents, softening agent, antifoaming agents, moisturisers, antisweat agents, alkalinizing agents, colouring agents, perfumes, preservative agents, surfactants, fixing or non-fixing polymers, volatile or non-volatile silicones, especially anionic silicones, polyols, proteins and vitamins. \\melbfilea\hoeS\shonal\Keep\SPECI\59908-00 speci-doc 20/08/04 14 A composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterised in that it is packaged in an aerosol device.

21. A hair cosmetic process characterised in that a composition defined in the claims 1 to 20 is applied on hair.

22. Use of a composition as claimed in any one of the claims 1 to 20 for making a hair styling, hair colouring, hair shining or hair conditioning composition.

23. A hair cosmetic product characterised in that it contains a composition according to any one of the claims 1 to

24. A product as claimed in claim 23, characterised in that it is a hair styling product. A product as claimed in claim 23, characterised in that it is a product intended to make hair shiny.

26. A product as claimed in claim 23, characterised in that it is a product intended to 20 give hair colouring effects.

27. A method of styling, colouring, shining and/or conditioning hair comprising applying a composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to

28. A hair composition, use of the hair composition, a hair cosmetic process or a hair cosmetic product substantially as herein described with reference to any one of the examples. p. o 30 Dated this 20 th day of August 2004 L'OREAL S. By their Patent Attorneys GRIFFITH HACK Fellows Institute of Patent and Trade Mark Attorneys of Australia \\melb-files\hoe$\shonal\Keep\SPECI\59908-00 speci-doc 20/08/04