AU757288B2

AU757288B2 - Detergent cosmetic compositions and use

Info

Publication number: AU757288B2
Application number: AU23027/00A
Authority: AU
Inventors: Nathalie Garnier; Serge Restle
Original assignee: LOreal SA
Current assignee: LOreal SA
Priority date: 1999-02-05
Filing date: 2000-02-04
Publication date: 2003-02-13
Anticipated expiration: 2020-02-04
Also published as: DE60000236T3; JP2002536311A; RU2209619C2; PL207577B1; ATE219655T1; WO2000045781A1; JP2005350480A; DK1148863T3; FR2789308B1; CA2361524A1; EP1148863B2; PT1148863E; DE60000236T2; CN1161093C; CN1338920A; KR100408907B1; ES2179013T5; EP1148863B1; DE60000236D1; AU2302700A

Abstract

The invention concerns novel detergent and conditioning compositions comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least an anionic surfactant, at least an amphoteric surfactant, at least a selected water-insoluble carboxylic acid ester: the total number of carbon atoms of the ester not exceeding 27 if it contains no unsaturation and 50 if it contains at least one unsaturation, the ester concentration being higher than 1 % and the anionic surfactant/amphoteric surfactant ratio being not more than 3. The invention is useful for hair and skin cleaning and care.

Description

WO 00/45781 PCT/FR00/00271 1 DETERGENT COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS AND USE The present invention relates to novel cosmetic compositions with improved properties intended simultaneously for cleaning and for conditioning keratinous substances, such as the hair, and comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable aqueous vehicle, at least one anionic surfactant, at least one amphoteric surfactant and at least one specific carboxylic acid ester, the anionic surfactant/amphoteric surfactant ratio by weight being less than or equal to 3. The invention also relates to the use of said compositions in the abovementioned cosmetic application.

Detergent compositions (such as shampoos) based essentially on conventional surface-active agents of, in particular, anionic, non-ionic and/or amphoteric type, but more particularly of anionic type, are commonly used for cleaning and/or washing keratinous substances, such as the hair. These compositions are applied to wet hair and the foam generated by massaging or rubbing with the hands makes it possible, after rinsing with water, to remove the various types of dirt initially present on the hair or the skin.

These base compositions certainly have a good washing power but the intrinsic cosmetic properties ,which are attached to them remain fairly weak, however, 2 in particular because of the fact that the relatively aggressive nature of such a cleaning treatment can, in the long term, result in more or less marked damage to the hair fiber, related in particular _to the gradual removal of the lipids or proteins held in or at the surface of the hair fiber' Consequently, in order to improve the cosmetic properties of the above detergent compositions, and more particularly of those which are .10 called upon to be applied to sensitized hair hair S.which is found to be damaged or embrittled, in .i particular under the chemical action of atmospheric agents and/or of hair treatments, such as permanent waves, dyeings or bleachings), it is now usual to introduce, into the latter, additional cosmetic agents, known as conditioning agents, intended mainly to repair S.or limit the harmful or undesirable effects induced by the various treatments or attacks to which the hair fibers are more or less repeatedly subjected. These conditioning agents can, of course, also improve the cosmetic behavior of natural hair.

Provision has already been made to use insoluble&conditioning agents for this purpose. These insoluble compounds exhibit the disadvantage of being difficult to maintain as an even dispersion in the medium.

I Is 3 Provision has already been made, in order to maintain them in suspension, to use ester or ether derivatives comprising a long chain (dispersing agents) (EP 181 773) or polysaccharides, such as xanthan gum (gelling agents) (EP 190 010). However, the dispersing agents exhibit problems of crystallization, which sometimes result in a change (increase) in the viscosity of the compositions over time; the gelling agents also exhibit disadvantages, namely, on the one 10 hand, that the foam of the detergent compositions comprising polysaccharides is difficult to develop (poor initiation of foam) and that, on the other hand, oS the compositions do not have a smooth texture and flow in waves, which is not very highly appreciated by the 15 users. Furthermore, these various agents do not make it possible to obtain transparent or clear compositions.

The aim of the present invention is to provide compositions which do not exhibit the disadvantages of the abovementioned compositions.

The conditioning agents must also be carried on the treated keratinous substances with a view to conferring on them, depending on the application, properties of softness, of gloss and of disentangling.

EP 0 562 638 discloses an aqueous shampoo composition comprising water, an anionic surfactant, a cationic conditioning agent, a water-insoluble q conditioning agent with a specific viscosity, such as 3a isopropyl myristate, and a suspending agent. The !anionic surfactant/amphoteric surfactant ratio is not disclosed.

EP 0 511 652 discloses an aqueous shampoo composition comprising water, a cleaning anionic surfactant, a cationic conditioning polymer, a cationic conditioning surfactant and a fatty ester.

DE 19640186 discloses a shower'gel .g.o composition comprising water, an anionic surfactant, a betaine and 0.5% by weight of isopropyl palmitate.

15 WO 93/08787 discloses an aqueous shampoo composition comprising water, an anionic surfactant, a water-soluble cationic conditioning polymer, an insoluble silicone and less than 1% by weight of a fatty ester having more than 10 carbon atoms.

Furthermore, the composition comprises a cationic surfactant.

.o Thus, following considerable research carried out on the question, it has now been found by the Applicant Company that, by using a specific washing base, at least one specific carboxylic acid ester, it is possible to obtain stable detergent compositions exhibiting excellent cosmetic properties, in particular the disentangling and the sleekness of the treated hair, and having good properties during use, such as a good intrinsic washing power and a good foaming power.

The industrial implementation is extremely easy and the cosmetic properties of the shampoos are excellent.

The compositions obtained are stable on storage, without requiring the addition of an agent for dispersing and/or suspending the ester according to the invention.

In the absence of additional insoluble compounds, the compositions obtained are also transparent. They can comprise significant amounts of carboxylic acid ester while retaining good transparency and while having good cosmetic properties.

The compositions in accordance with the invention confer on the hair, in particular after rinsing, a notable treating effect which is displayed in particular by an ease of disentangling and a contribution of sleekness, softness and suppleness, without any feeling of greasiness.

Thus, a subject-matter of the present invention is novel detergent and conditioning cosmetic compositions, characterized in that they comprise, in a cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium, a washing base comprising at least one anionic surfactant and at least one amphoteric surfactant, at least one Swater-insoluble carboxylic acid ester chosen from monoesters of saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched monocarboxylic acids and of saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched monoalcohols, di- or triesters of saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched di- or tricarboxylic acids and of saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched monoalcohols, mono-, di- or triesters of saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched di- or tricarboxylic acids and of saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched dialcohols, monoesters of saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched monocarboxylic acids and of saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched dialcohols, di- or triesters of saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched monocarboxylic acids and of unsaturated dialcohols of any kind or of saturated dialcohols having more than 4 carbon atoms, mono- or diesters of saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched monocarboxylic acids and of saturated trialcohols, triesters of saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched monocarboxylic acids and of saturated trialcohols having more than 3 carbon atoms, mono-, di- or triesters of saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched monocarboxylic acids and of unsaturated trialcohols, mono-, di- or triesters of saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched di- or tricarboxylic acids and of saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched trialcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the ester not exceeding 27 if it is not unsaturated and 50 if it comprises at least one unsaturation, the concentration of the ester being greater than 1%, the composition being devoid of cationic surfactant, and the anionic surfactant/amphoteric surfactant ratio by weight being less than or equal to 3.

The presence of cationic surfactants in the compositions according to the invention results in a deterioration in the cosmetic performances of said compositions.

Another subject-matter of the invention is the use in cosmetics of the above compositions for cleaning and/or removing makeup from and/or conditioning keratinous substances, such as the hair and the skin.

The term "devoid of cationic surfactant" is understood to mean that the composition comprises less than 0.3% by weight of cationic surfactant with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, and more particularly that the concentration of cationic surfactant is zero. The term '11 "cationic surfactant" does not denote cationic surfaceactive polymers. Surface-active polymers are not excluded from the composition.

A- WASHING BASE: The washing base comprises one or more anionic surfactants and one or more amphoteric surfactants.

Anionic surfactant(s): Their nature does not assume a really critical character within the context of the present invention.

Thus, mention may in particular be made, by way of example of anionic surfactants which can be used, alone or as mixtures, in the context of the present invention, of (nonlimiting list) the salts (in particular alkali metal, especially sodium, salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, aminoalcohol salts or magnesium salts) of the following compounds: alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates or monoglyceride sulfates; alkyl sulfonates, alkyl phosphates, alkylamide sulfonates, alkylaryl sulfonates, a-olefin sulfonates or paraffin sulfonates; alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates or alkylamide sulfosuccinates; alkylsulfosuccinamates; alkyl sulfoacetates; alkyl ether phosphates; acylsarcosinates; acylisethionates and N-acyltaurates, the alkyl or acyl radical of all these different 4 compounds preferably comprising from 12 to 20 carbon atoms and the aryl radical preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group. Mention may also be made, among the anionic surfactants which can be further used, of the salts of fatty acids, such as the salts of oleic, ricinoleic, palmitic or stearic acid, or the acids of coconut oil or of hydrogenated coconut oil; or acyllactylates in which the acyl radical comprises 8 to carbon atoms. Use may also be made of weakly anionic surfactants, such as alkyl D-galactoside uronic acids and their salts, as well as of polyoxyalkylenated (C 6

C

24 )alkyl ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated

(C

6

-C

24 )alkylaryl ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated (C 6

-C

24 )alkylamido ether carboxylic acids and their salts, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, and their mixtures.

Use is preferably made of an anionic surfaceactive agent chosen from sodium, triethanolamine or ammonium (C 1 2

-C

14 )alkyl sulfates, sodium (C 1 2

-C

1 4 )alkyl ether sulfates oxyethylenated with 2.2 mol of ethylene oxide, sodium cocoylisethionate and sodium a-(C 1 4

-C

16 olefin sulfonate.

Among the anionic surfactants, it is preferable to use, according to the invention, alkyl sulfate and alkyl ether sulfate salts and their mixtures.

(iii) Amphoteric surfactant(s): The amphoteric surface-active agents, the A4,, nature of which does not assume any critical character

(O

I)

9 within the context of the present invention, may be in particular (nonlimiting list) derivatives of aliphatic secondary or tertiary amines in which the aliphatic radical is a linear or branched chain comprising 8 to 22 carbon atoms and comprising at least one watersolubilizing anionic group (for example carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate); mention may also be made of (C 8

-C

2 o)alkyl betaines, sulfobetaines, (Cs-C 2 o)alkyl amido(CI-C 6 )alkyl betaines or (Cs-C 20 )alkyl amido(C 1

-C

6 )alkyl sulfobetaines.

Mention may be made, among the amine derivatives, of the products sold under the name Miranol®, as disclosed in Patents US-2,528,378 and US-2,781,354 and with structures:

R

2

-CONHCH

2

CH

2

-N(R

3

(R

4

(CH

2 COO-) (2) in which: R 2 denotes an alkyl radical derived from an acid R 2 -COOH present in hydrolyzed coconut oil or a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl radical, R 3 denotes a 0-hydroxyethyl group and R 4 denotes a carboxymethyl group; and

R

2

CONHCH

2

CH

2 (3) in which: represents -CH 2

CH

2 .C represents -(CH 2 with iv

P

X' denotes the -CH 2

CH

2 -COOH group or a hydrogen atom Y' denotes -COOH or the -CH 2

-CHOH-SO

3 H radical

R

2 denotes an alkyl radical of an acid R 9 -COOH present in hydrolyzed linseed oil or coconut oil, an alkyl radical, in particular a C 7

C

9

C

11 or C 13 radical, a C 17 alkyl radical and its iso form, or an unsaturated C 17 radical.

These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th Edition, 1993, under the names Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, Disodium Lauroamphodiacetate, Disodium Caprylamphodiacetate, Disodium Capryloamphodiacetate, Disodium Cocoamphodipropionate, Disodium Lauroamphodipropionate, Disodium Caprylamphodipropionate, Disodium Capryloamphodipropionate, Lauroamphodipropionic acid and Cocoamphodipropionic acid.

Mention may be made, by way of example, of the cocoamphodiacetate sold under the trade name Miranol® C2M concentrate by the company Rh6ne-Poulenc.

According to the present invention, it is more particularly preferred to use the amphoteric surface-active agents belonging to the group of the betaines, such as the alkyl betaines, in particular the cocoyl betaine sold under the name "Dehyton AB 30" as an aqueous solution comprising 30% of AM by the company Henkel, or the alkylamido betaines, such as 'egobetaine® F50, sold by the company Goldschmidt.

11 The minimum amount of washing base is that just sufficient to confer a satisfactory foaming and/or detergent power on the final composition, and excessively large amounts of washing base do not really contribute additional advantages.

Thus, according to the invention, the washing base can represent from 4% to 50% by weight, preferably from 6% to 35% by weight and more preferably still from 8% to 25% by weight of the total weight of the final composition.

By way of indication, the detergent compositions in accordance with the invention generally exhibit the following compositions: anionic surfactant(s): from 3 to 30% by weight, preferably from 5 to 20% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the detergent composition; (ii) amphoteric surfactant(s): from 1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 1.5 to 15% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

The anionic surfactant/amphoteric surfactant ratio by weight is preferably between 0.2 and 3, more particularly between 0.4 and B- Carboxylic acid esters The water-insoluble carboxylic acid esters according to the invention are insoluble in water at a concentration of greater than or equal to 0.1% by weight in water at 25 0 C, that is to say that they do not form a transparent isotropic solution in water.

The water-insoluble carboxylic acid esters according to the invention can comprise hydroxyl groups.

The carboxylic acid esters according to the invention are generally chosen from: monoesters of saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched C 1

-C

49 preferably C 3 -C30, monocarboxylic acids and of saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched C 1 -C4 9 preferably C 2

-C

30 monoalcohols.

Mention may.be made, among these monomers, of cetyl lactate, C 12 -C15 alkyl lactate, isostearyl lactate, lauryl lactate, linoleyl lactate, oleyl lactate, (iso)stearyl octanoate, isocetyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, isodecyl octanoate, isononyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl isononate, octyl palmitate, octyl pelargonate, octyl stearate, octyldodecyl erucate, oleyl erucate, ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, butyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate, hexyl laurate or tridecyl erucate.

di- or triesters of saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched C 2

-C

48 preferably C 3 -C30, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched C 1

-C

4 9, preferably C 2 monoalcohols.

13 Mention may be made, among these esters, of diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di(n-propyl) adipate, dioctyl adipate, dioctyl maleate, triisopropyl citrate, trioleyl citrate or dioctyl malate.

mono-, di- or triesters of saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched C 2

-C

49 preferably C 3

-C

30 di- or tricarboxylic acids and of saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched Ci-C 49 preferably C 2

-C

3 0, dialcohols.

10 Mention may be made, among these esters, of •.go propylene glycol dicaprylate and dicaprate.

monoesters of saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched CI-C 4 8 preferably C 3

-C

30 monocarboxylic S. acids and of saturated or unsaturated and linear or 15 branched C 2

-C

49 preferably C 3

-C

30 dialcohols.

Mention may be made, among these esters, of propylene glycol monostearate, tripropylene glycol monostearate, diethylene glycol monostearate or diethylene glycol monooleate.

di- or triesters of saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched Ci-C 46 preferably C 3

-C

30 monocarboxylic acids and of unsaturated C 2

-C

4 8 preferably C 4

-C

30 dialcohols or of saturated dialcohols having more than 4 carbon atoms and preferably Cs-C 4 8 dialcohols and more particularly still C 5 dialcohols.

14 Mention may be made, among these esters, of neopentyl glycol dilaurate, dipropylene glycol dioctanoate, 2-butene-1,4-diol dioctanoate or 2-butene- 1,4-diol distearate.

mono- or diesters of saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched C 1

-C

47 preferably C 3

-C

3 o, monocarboxylic acids and of saturated C 3

-C

49 preferably C 3

-C

30 trialcohols.

Mention made be made, among these esters, of glyceryl undecylenate, glyceryl monolaurate, glyceryl dilaurate, glyceryl monocaprate, glyceryl monocaprylate, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl monooleate or glyceryl I dioleate.

07)- triesters of saturated or unsaturated and linear or 15 branched Ci-C 4 6, preferably C 3

-C

30 monocarboxylic acids and of saturated trialcohols having more than 3 carbon atoms and preferably C 4

-C

47 trialcohols and more particularly C 4

C

30 trialcohols.

Mention may be made, among these esters, of 20 trimethylolpropane trihexanoate or 1,2,6-hexanetriol Stripentanoate.

mono-, di- or triesters of saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched C 1

-C

4 7 preferably C 3

-C

30 monocarboxylic acids and of unsaturated C 3

-C

49 preferably

C

3 -C30, trialcohols.

Mention may be made, among these esters, of dimethyl-3-hexyne-l,2,5-triol laurate.

mono-, di- or triesters of saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched C 2

-C

4 7, preferably C 3

-C

30 di- or tricarboxylic acids and of saturated or unsaturated and \\melb_files\homeS\Mdoul\keep\Speci\23027.00 doc 05/12/02 linear or branched C 3

-C

48 preferably C 3

-C

30 trialcohols.

Mention may be made, among these esters, of glyceryl citrate or glyceryl monosuccinate.

The carboxylic acid esters are more particularly chosen from the compounds from classes 1), 6) and 9).

The carboxylic acid ester or esters can be used in the compositions in accordance with the invention in concentrations generally of between 1.2 and 15% and preferably between 1.5 and 10% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition and more particularly still from 2 to 8% by weight.

According to an embodiment of the invention, the compositions can additionally comprise a watersoluble salt and/or a water-soluble mono- or polyhydroxyl alcohol.

According to another embodiment of the Sinvention, the compositions comprising monoesters of monocarboxylic acid and of monoalcohol, the total carbon number of which is greater than or equal to 24 and less than or equal to 27, mono- and diesters of saturated monoacids and of glycerol, the total carbon number of which is greater than or equal to 17, or diesters of branched monoalcohols and of unsaturated diacids generally comprise a water-soluble salt and/or a water-soluble mono- or. polyhydroxyl alcohol.

The term "water-soluble in water" is understood to mean compounds which are soluble in water at a concentration of greater than or equal to 0.1% by weight in water at 25 0 C, that is to say that they form a transparent isotropic solution.

The water-soluble salts according to the invention are preferably salts of mono- or divalent metals and of an inorganic or organic acid.

Mention may in particular be made of sodium chloride, potassium chloride, calcium chloride, magnesium sulfate, sodium citrate or the sodium salts of phosphoric acid. Preferably, monovalent metal salts are used. Sodium chloride is particularly preferred.

The water-soluble salts are generally present at concentrations of between 0.1 and 10% by weight and preferably between 0.5 and 5% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.

The water-soluble mono- or polyhydroxyl alcohols are in particular lower Cl-C 6 alcohols, such as ethanol, ispropanol, tert-butanol or n-butanol, polyols, such as alkylene glycols, for example propylene glycol or glycerol, and polyalkylene glycols, or glycol ethers.

The water-soluble alcohol or alcohols can be used in concentrations generally of between 0.1 and by weight and more particularly between 0.2 and 10% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.

The detergent compositions according to the invention exhibit a final pH generally of between 3 and 8. This pH is preferably between 4 and 6.5. The pH can be conventionally adjusted to the desired value by addition of a base (organic or inorganic) to the composition, for example sodium hydroxide, aqueous ammonia or a primary, secondary or tertiary (poly)amine, such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, isopropanolamine or 1,3propanediamine, or alternatively by addition of an inorganic or organic acid, preferably citric acid or hydrochloric acid.

The cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium can be composed solely of water or of a mixture of water and of a cosmetically acceptable solvent.

The compositions in accordance with the invention can comprise, in addition to the combination defined above, viscosity regulating agents, such as Sthickening agents. Mention may in particular be made of scleroglucans, xanthan gums, fatty acid alkanolamides, alkyl ether carboxylic acid alkanolamides optionally oxyethylenated with up to 5 mol of ethylene oxide, such as the product sold under the name "Aminol A15" by the company Chem Y, crosslinked poly(acrylic acid)s and crosslinked acrylic acid/C 10

-C

30 alkyl acrylate copolymers. These viscosity regulating agents are used in the compositions according to the invention in 18 proportions which can range up to 10% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.

The compositions in accordance with the invention can also comprise up to 5% of pearlescent or opacifying agents well known in the state of the art, such as, for example, fatty alcohols, sodium or magnesium palmitates, sodium or magnesium stearates and hydroxystearates, fatty alcohol, acylated derivatives comprising a fatty chain, such as ethylene glycol or 10 polyethylene glycol distearates, or ethers comprising fatty chains, such as, for example, distearyl ether or .1-(hexadecyloxy)-2-octadecanol.

The compositions in accordance with the invention can additionally optionally comprise other 15 agents having the effect of improving the cosmetic properties of hair or of the skin without, however, detrimentally affecting the stability of the compositions. Mention may be made, in.this respect, of anionic or nonionic or cationic or amphoteric polymers, proteins, protein hydrolysates, ceramides, pseudoceramides, fatty acids comprising linear or branched C 16

-C

40 chains, such as 18-methyleicosanoic acid, hydroxy acids, vitamins, panthenol, volatile or nonvolatile silicones, other than the silicones of the invention, which are soluble and insoluble in the medium, UV screening agents, moisturizing agents, 19 antidandruff or antiseborrheic agents, agents for combating free radicals, and their mixtures.

According to a particularly preferred form, the compositions according to the invention additionally comprise at least one cationic polymer.

The cationic polymers which can be used in accordance with the present invention can be chosen from all those already known per se as improving the cosmetic properties of hair treated with detergent compositions, namely, in particular, those disclosed in patent application EP-A-0,337,354 and in French patent applications FR-A-2,270,846 2,383,660, 2,598,611, 2,470,596 and 2,519,863.

In a still more general way, within the meaning 15 of the present invention, the expression "cationic polymer" denotes any polymer comprising cationic groups and/or groups which can be ionized to cationic groups.

The cationic polymers which can be used according to the invention preferably have a cationic charge density 20 of greater than or equal to 0.2 meq/g and more particularly of between 0.2 and 8.5 meq/g.

Among all the cationic polymers capable of being used in the context of the present invention, preference is given to the employment of quaternary derivatives of 25 cellulose ether, such as the products sold under the name "JR 400" by the company Union Carbide Corporation, cyclopolymers, in particular \\melb_files\home$\Mdoul\keep\Speci\23027.00.doc 05/12/02 diallyldimethylammonium salt homopolymers and copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium salt and of acrylamide, in particular the chlorides, sold under the names "Merquat 100", "Merquat 550" and "Merquat S" by the company Merck, cationic polysaccharides and more particularly guar gums modified by 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride, sold, for example, under the name "Jaguar C13S" by the company Meyhall, optionally crosslinked homopolymers and copolymers of (meth)acryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium salt, sold by the company Allied Colloids as a solution in mineral oil under the trade names Salcare SC92 (crosslinked copolymer of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride and of acrylamide) and Salcare SC95 (crosslinked homopolymer of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride), or quaternary copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole salt, such as the products sold by BASF under the names Luviquat FC 370, Luviquat FC 550, Luviquat FC 905 and Luviquat HM-552.

Use may also be made of polymers which are composed of repeat units corresponding to the formula: R R 3 -N-(CH2n-N- (CH2 p

(I)

I I X- R, X- R, in which RI, R 2

R

3 and R 4 which are identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms approximately, n and p are integers varying from 2 to 20 approximately and Xis an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid.

A particularly preferred compound of formula is that in which R 1

R

2

R

3 and R 4 represent a methyl radical and n 3, p 6 and X Cl, known as Hexadimethrine chloride according to the INCI (CTFA) nomenclature.

According to the invention, the cationic polymer or polymers can represent from 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 5% by weight and more preferably still from 0.01% to 3% by weight of the total weight of the final composition.

The compositions according to the invention can also comprise foam synergists, such as C 10

-C

18 1,2alkanediols or fatty alkanolamides derived from monoor from diethanolamine.

Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additional compounds and/or their amounts so that the solubility of the carboxylic acid esters according to the invention, the stability of the composition and the cosmetic properties intrinsically attached to the composition in accordance with the invention are not, or not substantially, detrimentally affected by the envisaged addition or additions. The addition of certain compounds, such .as pearlescent agents, can Nrender the composition nontransparent.

The transparency can be measured by the turbidity with a Hach Model 2100 P turbidimeter at 25 0

C

(the device is calibrated with formazine). The turbidity of the compositions according to the invention (in the absence of additional insoluble compounds) is then generally between 0.05 and 100 NTU and preferably less than 50 NTU. When the ester according to the invention is in the form of dispersed particles, the size of these particles is preferably less than 5 nanometers.

The foaming power of the compositions according to the invention, characterized by a foam height, is generally greater than 75 mm, preferably greater than 100 mm, measured according to the modified Ross-Miles method (NF T 73-404/IS0696).

The modifications to the method are as follows: The measurement is carried out at a temperature of 22°C with osmosed water. The concentration of the solution is 2 g/l. The height of the drop is 1 m. The amount of composition which drops is 200 ml. These 200 ml of composition falls in a measuring cylinder with a diameter of 50 mm containing 50 ml of the composition to be tested. The measurement is carried out 5 minutes after the composition has finished being run in.

These compositions can be provided in the form of more or less thickened liquids, of creams or of gels and they are mainly suitable for washing or caring for keratinous substances, in particular the hair and the skin and more particularly still the hair.

Another subject-matter of the invention is a process for washing and for conditioning keratinous substances, such as, in particular, the hair, which consists in applying, to wetted said substances, an effective amount of the composition as defined above and in then rinsing with water, after an optional leave-in time.

The compositions according to the invention are preferably used as shampoos for washing and conditioning the hair and they are applied, in that case, to wet hair in amounts which are effective for washing it, and the foam generated by massaging or rubbing with the hands is subsequently removed, after an optional leave-in time, by rinsing with water, it being possible for the operation to be repeated one or more times.

The compositions in accordance with the invention can also be used as shower gels for washing and conditioning the hair and/or the skin, in which case they are applied to the wet skin and/or hair and are rinsed after application.

Concrete but in no way limiting examples illustrating the invention will now be given.

EXAMPLE 1 Four shampoo compositions in accordance with the invention were prepared. 1 2 3 4 Sodium lauryl ether sulfate (70/30 C 12

/C

1 4 comprising 2.2 mol of ethylene oxide, as an 15 g 15 g 5.25 g 15 g aqueous solution AM AM AM AM comprising 70% of AM Cocoyl betaine comprising 30% of Am 5 g AM 5 g AM 9 g AM 5 g AM (Dehyton AB Isopropyl palmitate 2 Isodecyl neopentanoate 2 g 6 g Isopropyl myristate 2g Diallyldimethylamnmonium chloride homopolymer as an aqueous 0.4 g 0.4 g 0.4 g 0.4 g solution comprising 40% AM AM AM AM of AM (Merguat 100 from Calgon) NaCl 4 g 4 g 4 g 4 g Fragrance, q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s.

Hydrochloric acid, q.s. pH 6.2 6.3 6.8 6.3 Demineralized water, 100g 100g 100g 100g q.s.

Turbidity (NTU) 41.7 11.9 8.5 7 Composition 1 to 4 according to the invention are transparent and stable (the transparency is evaluated by turbidimetry in NTU (Nephelometric turbidity units)).

Hair treated with these compositions readily disentangles and is smooth from the root of the hair to the tip.

EXAMPLE 2 0 Four shampoo compositions in accordance with the invention were prepared.

6 7 8 9 Sodium lauryl ether sulfate (70/30

C

12

/C

14 comprising 15 g 15 g 10 g 15 g 15 g 2.2 mol of ethylene AM AM AM AM AM oxide, as an aqueous solution comprising of AM (AM active material) Cocoyl betaine comprising 30% of AM 5 g 5 g 10 g 5 g 5 g (Dehyton AB 30) AM AM AM AM AM Octyldodecyl 1.2 g ricinoleate________ Myristyl lactate 2 g Isopropyl 2 g 6 g myristate Di(diisopropyl 1.2 g linoleate) Polyquaternium-lO 0.4 g 0.4 g 0.4 g (JR 400 from Union AM AM AM NaCi 4g Fragrance, q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s.

preservative Hydrochloric acid, 6.1 6.1 6.1 6.5 q.s. pH Demineralized 100 g 100 g 100 g 100 g 100 g water, iTurbidity (NTU) 2.9 4.2 2.9 6.5 8.2 Composition 5 to 8 according to the invention are transparent and stable.

Hair treated with these compositions readily disentangles and is smooth from the root of the hair to ,the tip.

-26a For the purposes of this specification it will be clearly understood that the word "comprising" means "including but not limited to", and that the word "comprises" has a corresponding meaning.

It is to be understood that, if any prior art publication is referred to herein, such reference does not constitute an admission that the publication forms a part of the common general knowledge in the art, in Australia or any other country.

The term 'Dwell time' is hereby defined as the time a substance, such as the present invention, is left on a keratinous substance, including hair, skin and/or fingernails.

e* *o *oo ooo** o \\melb_files\homeS\Mdoul\keep\Speci\23027.00 .doc 05/12/02

Claims

1. A detergent and conditioning cosmetic composition, which includes, in a cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium, a washing base including at least one anionic surfactant and at least one amphoteric surfactant, at least one water-insoluble carboxylic acid ester chosen from monoesters of saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched monocarboxylic acids and of saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched monoalcohols, di- or triesters of saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched di- or tricarboxylic acids and of saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched 15 monoalcohols, mono-, di- or triesters of saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched di- or tricarboxylic acids and of saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched dialcohols, 20 monoesters of saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched monocarboxylic acids and of saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched dialcohols, o di- or triesters of saturated or unsaturated and o o linear or branched monocarboxylic acids and of unsaturated 25 dialcohols of any kind or of saturated dialcohols having more than 4 carbon atoms, mono- or diesters of saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched monocarboxylic acids and of saturated trialcohols, triesters of saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched monocarboxylic acids and of saturated trialcohols having more than 3 carbon atoms, mono-, di- or triesters of saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched monocarboxylic acids and of unsaturated trialcohols, S9)- mono-, di- or triesters of saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched di- or tricarboxylic acids and of \\melbfiles\home$\Mdoul\keep\Speci\23027.00.doc 05/12/02 28 saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched trialcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the ester not exceeding 27 if it is not unsaturated and 50 if it includes at least one unsaturation, the concentration of the ester being greater than 1%, the composition being devoid of cationic surfactant, and the anionic surfactant/amphoteric surfactant ratio by weight being less than or equal to 3.

2. The composition as claimed in claim 1, in which the washing base is present at a content by weight of between 4% and 50% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.

3. The composition as claimed in claim 1, in :which the washing base is present at a content by weight of between 6 and 35% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.

4. The composition as claimed in claim 1, in 20 which the washing base is present at a content by weight S. of between 8% and 25% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition. The composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 4, in which the anionic surfactant(s) is (are) present in concentrations ranging from 3 to 30% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

6. The composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 4, in which the anionic surfactant(s) is (are) present in concentrations ranging from 5 to 20% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

7. The composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 6, in which the amphoteric surfactant(s) is (are) present in concentrations ranging from 1 to 20% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

8. The composition as claimed in any one of S4, claims 1 to 6, in which the amphoteric surfactant(s) is \\melb_files\home$\Mdoul\keep\Speci\23027.00.doc 05/12/02 29 (are) present in concentrations ranging from 1.5 to with respect to the total weight of the composition.

9. The composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 7, in which the anionic surfactant/amphoteric surfactant ratio by weight is between 0.2 and 3. The composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 7, in which the anionic surfactant/amphoteric surfactant ratio by weight is between 0.4 and

11. The composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 10, in which said esters are chosen from: monoesters of saturated or unsaturated and linear or S. branched Ci-C 49 monocarboxylic acids and of saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched CI-C 49 monoalcohols, o: di- or triesters of saturated or unsaturated and 15 linear or branched C2-C48 di- or tricarboxylic acids and of saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched C 1 -C 49 monoalcohols, mono-, di- or triesters of saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched C 2 -C 49 di- or tricarboxylic acids 20 and of saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched C 1 C 49 dialcohols, monoesters of saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched Ci-C 48 monocarboxylic acids and of saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched C 2 -C 49 dialcohols, di- or triesters of saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched Ci-C 46 monocarboxylic acids and of unsaturated C 2 -C 48 dialcohols or of saturated dialcohols having more than 4 carbon atoms, mono- or diesters of saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched C 1 -C 47 monocarboxylic acids and of saturated C 3 -C 49 trialcohols, triesters of saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched CI-C 46 monocarboxylic acids and of saturated trialcohols having more than 3 carbon atoms, mono-, di- or triesters of saturated or unsaturated Rand linear or branched C 1 -C 47 monocarboxylic acids and of N \unsaturated C 3 -C 49 trialcohols, \\melbfiles\homeS\Mdoul\keep\Speci\23027.00.doc 05/12/02 I 30 mono-, di- or triesters of saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched C 2 -C 4 7 di- or tricarboxylic acids and of saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched C 3 C 48 trialcohols.

12. The composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 10, in which said esters are chosen from: monoesters of saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched C 3 -C 30 monocarboxylic acids and of saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched C 2 -C 30 monoalcohols, di- or triesters of saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched C 3 -C 30 di- or tricarboxylic acids and of saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched C 2 monoalcohols, *oo* mono-, di- or triesters of saturated or unsaturated 15 and linear or branched C 3 -C 30 di- or tricarboxylic acids and of saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched C 2 C 30 dialcohols, monoesters of saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched C 3 -C 30 monocarboxylic acids and of saturated or 20 unsaturated and linear or branched C 3 -C 30 dialcohols, di- or triesters of saturated or unsaturated and i linear or branched C 3 -C 30 monocarboxylic acids and of unsaturated C 4 -C 30 dialcohols or of Cs-C 48 dialcohols, mono- or diesters of saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched C 3 -C 30 monocarboxylic acids and of saturated C 3 -C 30 trialcohols, triesters of saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched C 3 -C 30 monocarboxylic acids and of C 4 -C 47 trialcohols, mono-, di- or triesters of saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched C 3 -C 30 monocarboxylic acids and of unsaturated C 3 -C 30 trialcohols, mono-, di- or triesters of saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched C 3 -C 30 di- or tricarboxylic acids and of saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched C 3 C 30 trialcohols.

13. The composition as claimed in any one of \\melb_files\home$\Mdoul\keep\Speci\23027.00.doc 05/12/02 31 claims 1 to 10, in which said esters are chosen from: monoesters of saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched C 3 -C 30 monocarboxylic acids and of saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched C 2 -C 30 monoalcohols, di- or triesters of saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched C 3 -C 30 di- or tricarboxylic acids and of saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched C 2 -C 30 monoalcohols, mono-, di- or triesters of saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched C 3 -C 30 di- or tricarboxylic acids and of saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched C 2 C 30 dialcohols, monoesters of saturated or unsaturated and linear or .branched C 3 -C 3 0 monocarboxylic acids and of saturated or 15 unsaturated and linear or branched C 3 -C 30 dialcohols, di- or triesters of saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched C 3 -C 30 monocarboxylic acids and of unsaturated C 4 -C 30 dialcohols or of C 5 -C 30 dialcohols, mono- or diesters of saturated or unsaturated and 20 linear or branched C 3 -C 30 monocarboxylic acids and of saturated C 3 -C 30 trialcohols, triesters of saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched C 3 -C 30 monocarboxylic acids and of C 4 *o trialcohols, mono-, di- or triesters of saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched C 3 -C 30 monocarboxylic acids and of unsaturated C 3 -C 30 trialcohols, mono-, di- or triesters of saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched C 3 -C 30 di- or tricarboxylic acids and of saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched C 3 C 30 trialcohols.

14. The composition as claimed in any one of claims 11 to 13, in which said esters are chosen from the compounds from classes 6) and 9).

15. The composition as claimed in any one of claims 11 to 14, in which said esters are chosen from: cetyl lactate, C 12 -Cs 1 alkyl lactate, isostearyl lactate, \\melb_files\home$\Mdoul\keep\Speci\23027.00.doc 05/12/02 32 lauryl lactate, linoleyl lactate, oleyl lactate, (iso)stearyl octanoate, isocetyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, isodecyl octanoate, isononyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl isononate, octyl palmitate, octyl pelargonate, octyl stearate, octyldodecyl erucate, oleyl erucate, ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, 2-ethyihexyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, butyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate, hexyl laurate or tridecyl erucate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di(n-propyl) adipate, dioctyl adipate, dioctyl maleate, triisopropyl citrate, trioleyl citrate or dioctyl malate, propylene glycol monostearate, tripropylene glycol monostearate, diethylene glycol monostearate or diethylene glycol monooleate, glyceryl undecylenate, glyceryl monolaurate, glyceryl dilaurate, glyceryl monocaprate, glyceryl monocaprylate, *glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl monooleate or glyceryl S. 20 dioleate, glyceryl citrate or glyceryl monosuccinate.

16. The composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 15, in which said esters are present in concentrations of between 1.2 and 15% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.

17. The composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 15, in which said esters are present in concentrations of between 1.5 and 10% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.

18. The composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 15, in which said esters are present in concentrations of between 2 to 8% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.

19. The composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 18, in which the composition additionally A includes at least one cationic polymer. p 20. The composition as claimed in claim 19, in \\melbfiles\homeS\Mdoul\keep\Speci\23027.00.doc 05/12/02 33 which the cationic polymer is chosen from quaternary derivatives of cellulose ether, diallyldimethylammonium salt homopolymers and copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium salt and of acrylamide, cationic polysaccharides, or quaternary copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole salt.

21.The composition as claimed in claim 19, in which the cationic polymer is chosen from polymers which are composed of repeat units corresponding to the formula: R, R 3 (CH 2 (I) I X R 2 X R 4 in which R 1 R 2 R 3 and R 4 which are identical or *different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms approximately, n and p are integers varying from 2 to 20 approximately and X- is an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid.

22. The composition as claimed in any one of claims 19 to 21, in which said cationic polymer represents from 0.001% to 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition. 25 23. The composition as claimed in any one of claims 19 to 21, in which said cationic polymer represents from 0.05% to 5% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

24. The composition as claimed in any one of claims 19 to 21, in which said cationic polymer represents from 0.01% to 3% by weight of the total weight of the composition. The composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 24, in which the composition additionally includes at least one water-soluble salt.

26. The composition as claimed in claim 25, in -RAj.-which the water-soluble salts are salts of mono- or H,\Mdoul\keep\Speci\23027.00.doc 05/12/02 34 divalent metals and of an inorganic or organic acid.

27. The composition as claimed in either one of claims 25 and 26, in which the water-soluble salts are chosen from sodium chloride, potassium chloride, calcium chloride, magnesium sulfate, sodium citrate, or the sodium salts of phosphoric acid.

28. The composition as claimed in any one of claims 25 to 27, in which the water-soluble salts are present at concentrations of between 0.1 and 10% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.

29. The composition as claimed in any one of claims 25 to 27, in which the water-soluble salts are present at concentrations of between 0.5 and 5% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition. 15 30. The composition as claimed in any one of S claims 1 to 29, in which the composition additionally includes at least one water-soluble alcohol.

31. The composition as claimed in claim 30, in which the water-soluble alcohols are lower C 1 -C 6 alcohols, 20 such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol or n-butanol, S. polyols, such as alkylene glycols, for example propylene glycol or glycerol, and polyalkylene glycols, or glycol ethers.

32. The composition as claimed in either one of claims 30 and 31, in which the water-soluble alcohols are used in concentrations of between 0.1 and 20% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.

33. The composition as claimed in either one of claims 30 and 31, in which the water-soluble alcohols are used in concentrations of between 0.2 and 10% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.

34. The composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 33, in which it additionally includes one or more adjuvants chosen from anionic or nonionic or amphoteric polymers, proteins, protein hydrolysates, ceramides, pseudoceramides, fatty acids comprising linear ^Jor branched C 16 -C 40 chains, such as 18-methyl-eicosanoic \\melb_files\home$\Mdoul\keep\Speci\23027.00.doc 05/12/02 35 acid, hydroxy acids, vitamins, panthenol, volatile or nonvolatile silicones which are soluble or insoluble in the medium, UV screening agents, moisturizing agents, antidandruff or antiseborrheic agents, agents for combating free radicals, opacifying agents, and their mixtures. Use of the composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 34 for cleaning and/or removing makeup from keratinous substances.

36. A cosmetic process for washing and for conditioning keratinous substances, such as hair, which consists in applying, to wetted said substances, and effective amount of the composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 34 and in then rinsing with water, after an 15 optional dwell time.

37. A detergent and conditioning cosmetic composition substantially as herein described with reference to the examples.

38. Use of a detergent and conditioning 20 cosmetic composition substantially as herein described with reference to the examples.

39. A cosmetic process for washing and for conditioning keratinous substances substantially as herein described with reference to the examples. Dated this 5th day of December 2002 L'OREAL By their Patent Attorneys GRIFFITH HACK Fellows Institute of Patent and Trade Mark Attorneys of Australia \\melb files\home$\Mdoul\keep\Speci\23027.00.doc 05/12/02