MXPA01007848A - Detergent cosmetic compositions and use - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention concerns novel detergent and conditioning compositions comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least an anionic surfactant, at least an amphoteric surfactant, at least a selected water-insoluble carboxylic acid ester:the total number of carbon atoms of the ester not exceeding 27 if it contains no unsaturation and 50 if it contains at least one unsaturation, the ester concentration being higher than 1%and the anionic surfactant/amphoteric surfactant ratio being not more than 3. The invention is useful for hair and skin cleaning and care.

Description

COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS DETERGENTS AND UTILIZATION Field of the Invention The present invention relates to new cosmetic compositions with improved properties intended simultaneously for the cleaning and conditioning of keratin materials such as hair, and comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable aqueous support. , at least one anionic surfactant, at least one amphoteric surfactant and at least one particular carboxylic acid ester, the weight ratio being anionic surfactant / amphoteric surfactant less than or equal to 3. The invention also relates to the use of the said compositions in the aforementioned cosmetic application. BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION For the cleaning and / or washing of keratin materials such as hair, the use of detergent compositions (such as shampoos) based essentially on classical surfactants of the particularly anionic, non-ionic and / or amphoteric type , but more particularly of the anionic type, is common. These compositions are applied to wet hair and the foam generated by massage or friction with the hands allows, after rinsing with water, the elimination REF. 131076 of the various dirt initially present in the hair or skin. These basic compositions have, of course, a good washing power, but the intrinsic cosmetic properties which are related to them, however, remain quite low, particularly due to the fact that the relatively aggressive character of said cleaning treatment can eventually produce hair fiber more or less pronounced damage related in particular to the progressive elimination of lipids or proteins contained in or on the surface of the latter. Also, to improve the cosmetic properties of the detergent compositions indicated above, and more particularly those which are intended to be applied to sensitized hair (i.e. hair that is damaged or weakened particularly under the chemical action of atmospheric agents and / or hair treatments such as permanents, dyes or discolorations), it is now usual to introduce in the latter, complementary cosmetic agents called conditioning agents intended primarily to repair or limit the harmful or undesirable effects induced by the different treatments or aggressions they experience, in a more or less repeated, the hair fibers. These conditioning agents can also be understood to improve the cosmetic behavior of natural hair. For this purpose, it has already been proposed to use insoluble conditioning agents. These insoluble compounds have the drawback of being difficult to maintain in regular dispersion in the medium. To keep them in suspension, the use of derivatives of esters or long-chain ethers (dispersing agents) (EP181773) or polysaccharides such as xanthan gum (gelling agents) (EP190010) has already been proposed. However, the dispersing agents present crystallization problems that sometimes produce an evolution (increase) in the viscosity of the compositions with the passage of time; the gelling agents also have drawbacks, namely on the one hand that the foam of the detergent compositions containing polysaccharides hardly develops (poor foam onset) and that, on the other hand, the compositions do not have a smooth texture and flow to a blow , which users do not like. In addition, these various agents do not allow transparent or clear compositions to be obtained.

Description of the Invention The present invention has for its object to propose compositions that do not have the drawbacks of the compositions mentioned above. The conditioning agents must also be brought to the treated keratin materials in order to confer them, depending on the application, some properties of softness, shine and disentangling. European patent EP0562638 discloses an aqueous shampoo composition containing water, an anionic surfactant, a cationic conditioning agent, a water-insoluble conditioning agent, of particular viscosity such as isopropyl myristate and a suspending agent. The ratio of anionic surfactant / amphoteric surfactant is not described. European patent EP0511652 discloses an aqueous shampoo composition containing water, an anionic cleansing surfactant, a cationic conditioning polymer, a cationic conditioning surfactant and a fatty ester. German patent DE19640186 discloses a shower gel composition containing water, an anionic surfactant, a betaine, isopropyl palmitate at 0.5% by weight. WO93 / 08787 discloses an aqueous shampoo composition containing water, an anionic surfactant, a water-soluble cationic conditioning polymer, an insoluble silicone, and a fatty ester having more than 10 carbon atoms at least 1% by weight. In addition, the composition contains a cationic surfactant. Thus, as a consequence of important investigations carried out on te a, it has now been found by the applicant firm, that using a particular washing base, at least one particular carboxylic acid ester, it is possible to obtain stable detergent compositions having excellent cosmetic properties, in particular the disentangling and smoothing of the treated hair and with good properties of use such as a good intrinsic washing power and a good foaming power. The industrial implementation is extremely easy and the cosmetic properties of the shampoos are excellent. The compositions obtained are stable during storage, without requiring the addition of dispersing agent and / or suspension of the ester according to the invention. In the absence of additional insoluble compounds, the compositions obtained are also transparent. They may contain important amounts of carboxylic acid ester maintaining good transparency and having good cosmetic properties. The compositions according to the invention confer to the hair, particularly after rinsing, a remarkable treatment effect which is manifested in particular by an ease of disentangling, as well as a contribution of smoothing, of softness and of flexibility without any feeling of fat. Thus, the present invention has as its object new detergent and conditioning cosmetic compositions characterized in that they comprise, in a cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium, (A) a washing base including, at least one anionic surfactant and at least one amphoteric surfactant, (B) at least one water-insoluble carboxylic acid ester selected from 1) mono- or carboxylic monocarboxylic acids, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched monoalcohols, saturated or unsaturated, 2) di or tri-esters of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated di-triacid carboxylic acids and linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated monoalcohols; 3) mono-, di- or di-triacid carboxylic acids, straight or branched, saturated or unsaturated; and linear or branched dialcohols, saturated or unsaturated, 4) - the onosters of monocarboxylic acids, linear or branched saturated, unsaturated or linear or branched dialcohols, saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched dialcohols, saturated or unsaturated, 5) - di or straight or branched, saturated or unsaturated monocarboxylic acid and dialcohols or dialcohols. saturated with more than 4 carbon atoms, 6) - mono- or diesters of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated monocarboxylic carboxylic acids and saturated trialcohols, 7) - straight or branched, saturated or unsaturated monocarboxylic acid carboxylic acid triesters and saturated trialcohols having more than 3 carbon atoms, 8) - linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated mono-, di- or tri-esters of monocarboxylic carboxylic acids and unsaturated trialcohols, 9) - linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated mono-, di- or tri-esters of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated trialcoholes, not exceeding 27 the total number of carbon atoms of the ester if not contains unsaturation and of 50 if it contains at least one unsaturation, the ester concentration being greater than 1%, the cationic surfactant composition being exempt, and the weight ratio of anionic surfactant / amphoteric surfactant less than or equal to 3. The presence of cationic surfactants in the compositions according to the invention decreases the cosmetic performances of the indicated compositions. Another subject of the invention is the use in cosmetics of the compositions indicated above for cleaning and / or removing make-up and / or conditioning keratin materials such as hair and skin. By free from cationic surfactant, it is understood that the composition contains less than 0.3% by weight of cationic surfactant relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 0.1% by weight and more particularly than the concentration of surfactant. cationic is null. By cationic surfactant, cationic surfactant polymers are not designated. Surfactant polymers are not excluded from the composition.

A - BASE WASHING. The washing base comprises one or more anionic surfactants and one or more amphoteric surfactants. (i) Anionic surfactant (s): Its nature does not, in the context of the present invention, have a truly critical character. Thus, by way of example of anionic surfactants which can be used, alone or as a mixture, within the framework of the present invention, mention may be made in particular (non-limiting list) of the salts (in particular alkali metal salts, particularly sodium salts) ammonium, amine salts, salts of aminoalcohols or magnesium salts) of the following compounds: alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkylamidoethersulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; alkylsulfonates, alkyl phosphates, alkylamidasulphates, alkylarylsulfonates, α-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates; alkylsulphosuccinates, alkylether sulfosuccinates, alkylaminosul phosuccinates; the alkylsul phosuccinamates; the alkylsulfoacetates; the alkylether phosphates; acyl sarcosinates; the acyl isethionates and the N-acyltaurates, the alkyl or acyl radical of all these different compounds preferably comprising from 12 to 20 carbon atoms, and the aryl radical which preferably designates a phenyl or benzyl group. Among the anionic surfactants also usable, mention may also be made of salts of fatty acids such as the salts of oleic, ricinoleic, palmitic, stearic acids, copra oil acids or hydrogenated copra oil; acyl lactylates whose acyl radical comprises from 8 to 20 carbon atoms. It is also possible to use weakly anionic surfactants, such as alkyl D galactoside uronic acids and their salts as well as polyoxyalkylenated carboxylic acid (C6-C24) alkyl acids, polyoxyalkylenated alkyl (Ce-C2) aryl ether carboxylic acids, alkyl acids (C6-C2) polyoxyalkylenated carboxylic amido ether and its salts, in particular those comprising 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, an anionic surfactant selected from sodium (C 12 -C 4) sulphates, triethanolamine or ammonium alkyl sulfates, oxyethylenated sodium (C 2 -C 14) alkyl ether sulfates of 2,2 moles of ethylene oxide is used, the sodium cocoyl isethionate and the alpha-olefin (C? 4-C? 6) sodium sulfonate. Among the surfactants? of the anionic salts, it is preferred to use the salts of alkyl sulfates and alkyl sulfates and mixtures thereof according to the invention. (iii) Amphoteric surfactant (s): The amphoteric surfactants, whose nature is not critical in the context of the present invention, can be particularly (non-limiting list) derivatives of aliphatic secondary or tertiary amines , in which the aliphatic radical is a straight or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms and containing at least one water-solubilizing anionic group (for example carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate); Mention may also be made of (C 8 -C 2) alkyl betaines, sulfobetáines, (C 8 -C 20) alkyl amidoalkyl (Ci-Ce) betaines or (C 8 -C 2) alkyl amidoalkyl (C 6 -C 6) sulfobetaines. Among the derivatives of amines, mention may be made of the products marketed under the name MIRANOL®, such as those described in US-2,528,378 and US $ 2,781,354 and of structures: R2-CONHCH2CH2-N (R3) ( R) (CH2COO-) (2) wherein: R2 denotes an alkyl radical derived from an acid R2-COOH present in the hydrolyzed copra oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl radical, R3 designates a beta-hydroxyethyl group and R4 a carboxymethyl group; R2-CONHCH2CH2-N (B) (C) (3) in which B represents -CH2CH2OX ', C represents - (CH2) ZY', where z = 1 or 2, X 'denotes the group -CH2CH2-COOH or a hydrogen atom Y 'designates -COOH or the radical -CH2-CHOH-S03H R2, designates an alkyl radical of an Rg-COOH acid present in the copra oil or in the hydrolysed flax oil, an alkyl radical, particularly of C7, Cg, Cu or C13, an alkyl radical of C? and its iso form, an unsaturated Ci7 radical. These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, Disodium Lauroamphodiacetate, Disodium Caprylamphodiacetate, Disodium Caprylamphodiacetate, Disodium Cocoamphodipropionate, Disodium Lauroamphodipropionate, Disodium Gaprylamphodipropionate, Disodium Caprylamphodipropionate, Lauroamphodipropionic acid, Cocoamphodipropionic acid. By way of example, mention may be made of the cocoamphodiacetate marketed under the trade name MIRANOL® C2M concentrated by the company RHONE POULENC. According to the present invention, it is more particularly preferred to use the amphoteric surfactants belonging to the group of betaines such as alkylbetaines, in particular cocoylbetaines sold under the name "DEHYTON AB 30" in 30% aqueous solution of MA by the company HENKEL or alkylamidobetaines such as TEGOBETAINA® F50 marketed by the company GOLDSCHMIDT. The minimum amount of washing base is just sufficient to confer a satisfactory foaming and / or detergent power to the final composition, and too large amounts of washing base do not truly provide additional benefits. Thus, according to the invention, the washing base may represent from 4% to 50% by weight, preferably from 6% to 35% by weight, and even more preferably from 8% to 25% by weight, of the total weight of the final composition. By way of indication, the detergent compositions according to the invention generally have the following compositions: (i) anionic surfactant (s): from 3 to 30% by weight, preferably from 5 to 20% by weight , in relation to the total weight of the detergent composition; (ii) amphoteric surfactant (s): from 1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 1.5 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. The weight ratio anionic surfactant / amphoteric surfactant is preferably comprised between 0.2 and 3 more particularly between 0.4 and 2.5. B - Carboxylic acid esters The water-insoluble carboxylic acid esters according to the invention are insoluble in water at a concentration greater than or equal to 0.1% by weight in water at 25 ° C, ie they do not form an isotropic solution in water transparent. The water-insoluble carboxylic acid esters according to the invention can contain hydroxyl groups. The carboxylic acid esters according to the invention are generally chosen from: 1) mono- or mono-branched, saturated or unsaturated monocarboxylic carboxylic monoesters of C1-C49 preferably C3-C3o and linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated monoalcohols of C1 -C49 preferably of C2-C3o. Among these monoesters, cetyl lactate may be mentioned; the C12-C15 alkyl lactate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; the linoleyl lactate; the oleyl lactate; the octaisoate of (iso) stearyl; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; cetyl octanoate; isodecyl octanoate; the isononyl isononanoate; octyl isononanoate; the 2-ethexyl isononate; octyl palmitate; octyl pelargonate; octyl stearate; the octyldodecyl erucate; the oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, butyl ester, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; Hexyl laurate; the tridecil erucate. 2) - The di or tri-esters of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated di-triacid carboxylic acids of C2-C48, preferably of C3-C30 and linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated monoalcohols of C1-C49, preferably of C2-C30 - Among these esters, we can mention diethyl sebacate; dusopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di n-propyl adipate; the dioctyl adipate; the dioctyl maleate; triisopropyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; the dioctyl malate. 3) mono-, di or tri-esters of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated di-triacid carboxylic acids of C2-C4g, preferably of C3-C3o and linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated dialcohols of C1-C49, preferably C2- C3o. Among these esters, mention may be made of dicaprylate and propylene glycol dicaprate 4) monoesters of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C48 monocarboxylic acids, preferably of C3-C30 and linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated dialkhools of C2- C49 preferably of C3-C30. Among these esters, mention may be made of propylene glycol monostearate, tripropylene glycol monostearate, diethylene glycol monostearate, diethylene glycol monooleate. 5) - di or triesters of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated carboxylic monoacids of C1-C46, preferably of C3-C30 and of C2-C48 unsaturated dialcohols, preferably of C4-C30 or of saturated dialcohols having more than 4 carbon atoms, and preferably C5-C48 and even more particularly C5-C30. Among these esters, mention may be made of neopentyl glycol dilaurate, dipropylene glycol dioctanoate, 2-butene 1,4-diol dioactanoate, 2-butene 1,4-diol distearate. 6) mono- or diesters of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated monocarboxylic carboxylic acids of C 1 -C 47, preferably C 3 -C 30 and saturated trialkols of C 3 -C, preferably C 3 -C 3 o. Among these esters, there may be mentioned glyceryl undecylenate, glyceryl monolaurate, glyceryl dilaurate, glyceryl monocaprate, glyceryl monocaprylate, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl monooleate, glyceryl dioleate. 7) - The triesters of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated carboxylic monoacids of C1-C46, preferably of C3-C30 and of saturated trialcohols having more than 3 carbon atoms and preferably of C4-C4- 'and more particularly of C4-C30. Among these esters, mention may be made of trihexanoate of trimethylolpropane, tripentanoate of 1,2,6-hexanetriol. 8) mono-, di or tri-esters of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated carboxylic monocarboxylic acids of C 1 -C 47, preferably C 3 -C 30 and unsaturated trialkols of C 3 -C 49, preferably C 3 -C 30. Among these esters, mention may be made of the 2,5-dimethyl-3-hexyne 1,2,5-triol laurate. 9) - linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C2-C47 di or triacid carboxylic monoes, di or triesters of C3-C30 and linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C3-C8 trialkols of preferably C3 -C3o- Among these esters, there may be mentioned glyceryl citrate, glyceryl monosuccinate. The carboxylic acid esters are more particularly chosen from the compounds of classes 1), 2), 4), 6) and 9). The carboxylic acid ester (s) can be used in the compositions according to the invention in concentrations generally comprised between 1.2 and 15%, and preferably between 1.5 and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and even more particularly between 2 and 8% by weight. According to one embodiment of the invention, the compositions may further comprise a water-soluble salt and / or a water-soluble mono- or polyhydric alcohol. According to another embodiment of the invention, the compositions comprising the onoacid carboxylic and monoalcohol monosters whose total carbonate number is greater than or equal to 24 and less than or equal to 27, the mono and diesters of saturated monoacids and glycerol whose Total carbon number is greater than or equal to 17, the diesters of branched monoalcohols and unsaturated diacids generally comprise a water-soluble salt and / or a mono- or polyhydroxylated water-soluble alcohol. Water-soluble compounds are water-soluble compounds at a concentration greater than or equal to 0.1% by weight in water at 25 ° C, ie they form a transparent isotropic solution. The water-soluble salts according to the invention are preferably the salts of mono- or divalent metals and of a mineral or organic acid. Mention may be made in particular of sodium chloride, potassium chloride, calcium chloride, magnesium sulfate., sodium citrate, sodium salts of phosphoric acid. Preferably, the monovalent metal salts are used. Sodium chloride is particularly preferred.

The water-soluble salts are generally present at concentrations of between 0.1 and 10% by weight and preferably between 0.5 and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The water-soluble mono- or polyhydric alcohols are, in particular, lower C6-C6 alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, tertiobutanol, n-butanol, polyols such as alkylene glycols such as propylene glycol, glycerin and polyalkylene glycols; the glycol ethers. The water-soluble alcohol (s) can be used in concentrations generally comprised between 0.1 and 20% by weight and more particularly between 0.2 and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The detergent compositions according to the invention have a final pH generally between 3 and 8. Preferably, this pH is between 4 and 6.5. The adjustment of the pH to the desired value can be carried out conventionally by supplying a base (organic or mineral) to the composition, for example soda, ammonia or a primary, secondary or tertiary (poly) amine such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, isopropanolamine or 1,3-propanediamine, or also by the addition of a mineral or organic acid, preferably citric acid or hydrochloric acid. The cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium may consist solely of water or of a mixture of water and a cosmetically acceptable solvent. The compositions according to the invention may contain, in addition to the previously defined association, viscosity regulating agents such as thickening agents. Mention may be made in particular of scleroglucans, xanthan gums, fatty acid alkanolamides, alkyl ether carboxylic acid alkanolamides optionally oxyethylenated with up to 5 moles of ethylene oxide such as the product marketed under the name "AMINOL Al 5" by the CHEM Y Company, the crosslinked polyacrylic acids and the crosslinked C 1 or C 30 alkyl acrylic acid / acrylic acid copolymers. These viscosity regulating agents are used in the compositions according to the invention in proportions that can reach up to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The compositions according to the invention can also contain up to 5% of pearlizing or opacifying agents which are well known in the state of the art, such as, for example, fatty alcohols, sodium or magnesium palmitates, stearates and hydroxies. sodium or magnesium, fatty alcohols, fatty chain acylated derivatives such as ethylene glycol or polyethylene glycol distearates, fatty chain ethers such as, for example, distearylether or 1- (hexadecyloxy) -2-octadecanol. The compositions according to the invention can optionally also contain other agents which have the effect of improving the cosmetic properties of the hair or of the skin without altering, however, the stability of the compositions. Mention may be made in this regard of cationic surfactants, anionic or non-ionic or cationic or amphoteric poylimers, proteins, protein hydrolysates, ceramides, pseudoceramides, linear or branched chain fatty acids of C16-C40 such as 18-methyl eicosanoic acid, hydroxy acids, vitamins, panthenol, silicones other than silicones of the invention, volatile or non-volatile, soluble and insoluble in the medium, UV filters, moisturizing agents, antiplicular agents or antiseborrhoeic, free antiradical agents, and their mixtures.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention additionally comprise at least one cationic polymer. The cationic polymers which can be used according to the present invention can be chosen from all those already known per se as enhancers of the cosmetic properties of the hair treated by detergent compositions., particularly those described in the patent application EP-A-0 337 354 and in the French patent applications FR-A-2270846, 23836660, 2598611, 2470596 and 2.519.863. Even more generally, in the sense of the present invention, the term "cationic polymer" refers to any polymer containing cationic groups and / or ionizable groups in cationic groups. The cationic polymers which can be used according to the invention preferably have a cationic charge density greater than or equal to 0.2 meq./g, and more particularly comprised between 0.2 and 8.5 meq./g. Among all the cationic polymers that can be used in the context of the present invention, it is preferred to use the quaternary cellulose ether derivatives such as the products marketed under the name "JR 400" by the company UNION CARBIDE CORPORATION, the cyclopolymers , in particular diallyl dimethyl ammonium salt homopolymers and diallyl dimethyl ammonium salt copolymers and acrylamide in particular chlorides, marketed under the names "MERQUAT 100", "MERQUAT 550" and "MERQUAT 5" by the company MERCK, cationic polysaccharides and more particularly guar gums modified by 2,3-epoxypropyl trimethylammonium chloride marketed for example under the name "JAGUAR C13S" by MEYHALL, the homopolymers and the optionally crosslinked copolymers of (meth) acryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium salt sold by the Society ALLIED COLLOIDS in 50% solution in low mineral oil or the trade names SALCA.RE SC92 (crosslinked copolymer of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride and acrylamide) and SALCARE SC95 (crosslinked methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride homopolymer), the quaternary copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl imidazole salt such as the products marketed by BASF under the names LUVIQUAT FC 370, LUVIQUAT FC 550, LUVIQUAT FC 905 and LUVIQUAT HM-552. It is also possible to use the polymers that are constituted by recurring units that respond to the formula: wherein R x, R 2, R 3 and R 4, identical or different, designate an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical having from 1 to about 4 carbon atoms, n and p are integers ranging from 2 to about 20 and, X "is an anion derivative of a mineral or organic acid A particularly preferred compound of formula (I) is that for which Ri, R2, R3 and R4 represent a methyl radical and n = 3, p = 6 and X = Cl, designated Hexadimethrine chloride according to INCI nomenclature (CTFA) According to the invention, the cationic polymer (s) can represent 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferably 0.005% to 5% by weight, and even more preferably 0.01% to 3% by weight, of the total weight of the final composition The compositions according to the invention may also contain synergists of foams such as 1,2-alkanediols of Cio-Cis or fatty alkanolamides derived from mono or diethanolamine .Where understood, the person skilled in the art will try to Choose this one. these possible complementary compounds and / or their amounts such that the solubility of the carboxylic acid esters according to the invention, the stability of the compositions and the cosmetic properties intrinsically related to the composition according to the invention are not, or substantially, altered for the addition or additions considered. The addition of certain compounds such as pearlizing agents may render the composition non-transparent. The transparency can be measured by turbidity in the HACH - Model 2100 P turbidi at 25 ° C (The apparatus is contrasted with formazin). The turbidity of the compositions according to the invention (in the absence of additional insoluble compounds) is then generally between 0.05 and 100 NTU and preferably less than 50 NTU. When the ester according to the invention is in the form of dispersed particles, the size of these particles is preferably less than 5 nanometers. The foaming power of the compositions according to the invention, characterized by a foam height, is generally greater than 75 mm; preferably, more than 100 mm measured according to the ROSS-MILES method (nf t 73-404 / ISO696) modified.

The modifications of the method are as follows: The measurement is carried out at a temperature of 22 ° C with osmosed water. The concentration of the solution is 2g / l. The height of the fall is 1 m. The amount of composition that falls is 200 ml. These 200 ml of composition fall into a specimen having a diameter of 50 mm and containing 50 ml of the composition to be tested.

The measurement is made 5 minutes after stopping the circulation of the composition. These compositions may be in the form of more or less thick liquids, creams or gels and are suitable, in particular, for washing, for the care of keratin materials, in particular of the hair and skin and even more particularly of the hair. hair Another object of the invention is a method for washing and conditioning keratin materials, such as, in particular, the hair which consists in applying an effective amount of a composition as defined above to said wet materials, then in rinsing with water afterwards. of a possible resting time.

The compositions according to the invention are preferably used as shampoos for washing and conditioning the hair and are applied in this case to wet hair in effective amounts for washing them, and the foam generated by hand rubbing or rubbing is removed then after a possible rest time, by rinsing with water, the operation can be repeated once or several times. The compositions according to the invention can also be used as shower gels for washing and conditioning the hair and / or the skin, in which case they are applied to the skin and / or wet hair and are rinsed after washing. application. Concrete, but by no means limiting, examples illustrating the invention will be given below.

EXAMPLE 1 Four shampoo compositions according to the invention were made The compositions 1 to 4 according to the invention are transparent and stable. (Transparency was assessed by turbidimetry in units NTU (Nephelometric turbidity units)). The hair treated with these compositions easily untangles and is smooth from root to tip. EXAMPLE 2 Four shampoo compositions were made according to the invention.

The compositions 5 to 8 according to the invention are transparent and stable. The hair treated with these compositions easily untangles and is smooth from root to tip. It is noted that in relation to this date, the best method known to the applicant to carry out the aforementioned invention, is that which is clear from the present description of the invention.

Claims (23)

1. CLAIMS The invention having been described as above, the content of the following claims is claimed as property: 1. Detergent and conditioner cosmetic composition, characterized in that it comprises, in a cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium, (A) a washing base including , at least one anionic surfactant and at least one amphoteric surfactant, (B) at least one water-insoluble carboxylic acid ester selected from 1) - the linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated monocarboxycarboxylic monoesters and linear monoalcohols or branched, saturated or unsaturated, 2) - the di or tri-esters of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated di-triacidal carboxylic acids and linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated monoalcohols, 3) - the mono, di or di-triesters of di or linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated triacidal carboxylic acids and linear or branched dialcohols , saturated or unsaturated, 4) monoesters of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated monocarboxylic acids and linear or branched dialcohols, saturated or unsaturated, 5) di or straight or branched, saturated or unsaturated monocarboxylic acid monoesters and any unsaturated dialcohols or saturated dialcohols with more than 4 carbon atoms, 6) mono- or diesters of linear or branched carboxylic monipacids, saturated or unsaturated and saturated trialcohols, 7) linear or branched carboxylic monoacid triesters , saturated or unsaturated and of saturated trialcohols having more than 3 carbon atoms, 8) mono-, di or triesters of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated monocarboxylic carboxylic acids and of unsaturated trialcohols, 9) mono, di or triesters of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated carboxylic di-acids and linear or branched trialcohols, saturated or unsaturated, without exceeding 27 the total number of carbon atoms of the ester if it does not contain unsaturation and of 50 if it contains at least one unsaturation, the ester concentration being greater than 1%, the cationic surfactant composition being exempt, and the weight ratio of anionic surfactant / amphoteric surfactant less than or equal to 3. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the said washing base is present in a weight content comprised between 4% and 50%. % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably comprised between 6% and 35% by weight and more preferably comprised between 8% and 25% by weight. Composition according to any one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the anionic surfactant (s) is (are) present in concentrations ranging from 3 to 30. % by weight, preferably between 5 and 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the amphoteric surfactant (s) is (are) present at concentrations ranging from 1 to 20. % by weight, preferably between 1.5 and 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the weight ratio anionic surfactant / amphoteric surfactant is between 0.2 and 3 and more particularly between 0.4 and 2.5. 6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the said esters are chosen from: l) -the monoesters of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated monocarboxylic carboxylic acids of C1-C49 preferably of C3- C30 and linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated monoalcohols of C1-C49, preferably C2-C30, 2) -the di or tri-esters of linear or branched di or triacid carboxylic acids, saturated or unsaturated C2-C8, preferably C3-C30 and monoalcohols, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C49, preferably C2-C3O? 3) mono-, di or tri-esters of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated di-triacid carboxylic acids of C2-C4g, preferably of C3-C3o and linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated dialcohols of C1-C49, preferably C2- C3O 4) - the monoesters of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C48 monocarboxylic acids, preferably C3-C3o and linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C2-C49 dialcoholes, preferably C3-C or ) - di or triesters of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated carboxylic monoacids of C1-C46, preferably C3-C30 and unsaturated C2-C48 dialcohols, preferably C4-C30 or saturated dialcohols having more than 4 atoms of carbon, and preferably of Cs_C48 and even more particularly of C5-C30? 6) mono- or diesters of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated monocarboxylic carboxylic acids of C1-C41, preferably C3-C30 and saturated trialkols of C3-C49, preferably C3-C30 / 7) - the triesters of monocarboxylic acids linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C46, preferably C3-C30 and saturated trialcohols having more than 3 carbon atoms and preferably C4-C47 and more particularly C4-C30 / 8) - the mono, di or triesters of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated monocarboxylic carboxylic acids of C 1 -C47 preferably of C3-C30 and of unsaturated trialcohols of C3-C49 preferably of C3-C30 / 9) - the mono, di or triesters of di or linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C2-C47 triacidal carboxylic acids, preferably C3-C30 and linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C3-C48 trialkols, preferably C3-C30. Composition according to Claim 6, characterized in that said esters are chosen from the compounds of classes 1), 2), 4), 6) and 9). 8. Composition according to any one of claims 6 or 7, characterized in that the said esters are chosen from: cetyl lactate; the alkyl lactate of C? 2-C? s; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; the linoleyl lactate; the oleyl lactate; the octanoate of (iso) stearyl; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; cetyl octanoate; isodecyl octanoate; the isononyl isononanoate; octyl isononanoate: 2-ethylhexyl isononate; octyl palmitate; octyl pelargonate; octyl stearate; octyldodecyl erucate: oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, butyl ester, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; Hexyl laurate; tridecyl erucate, diethyl sebacate; dilsopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate: dioctyl maleate; trii sopropyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; dioctyl malate, propylene glycol monostearate, tripropylene glycol monostearate, diethylene glycol monostearate, monooleate. of diethylene glycol, glyceryl undecylenate, glyceryl monolaurate, glyceryl dilaurate, glyceryl monocaprate, glyceryl monocaprylate, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl monooleate, glyceryl dioleate, glyceryl citrate, monosuccinate of glyceryl. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 8, characterized in that said esters are present in concentrations of between 1.2 and 15%, and preferably between 1.5 and 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the compositions. the composition and even more particularly between 2 and 8% by weight. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the composition further comprises at least one cationic polymer. Composition according to Claim 10, characterized in that the cationic polymer is chosen from quaternary cellulose ether derivatives, diallyl dimethyl ammonium salt homopolymers and diallyl dimethyl ammonium salt copolymers and acrylamide copolymers, cationic polysaccharides, quaternary copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl imidazole salt. 12. Composition according to claim 10, characterized in that the cationic polymer is chosen from polymers that are constituted by recurring units that respond to the formula: wherein Ri, R2, R3 and R4, identical or different, designate an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical having from 1 to about 4 carbon atoms, n and p are integers ranging from 2 to about 20 and, X "is an anion derivative of a mineral or organic acid 13. Composition according to any one of claims 10 to 12, characterized in that said cationic polymer represents 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferably 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.01% to 3% by weight, of the total weight of the composition 14. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13, characterized in that the composition further comprises at least one water-soluble salt. 15. Composition according to claim 14, characterized in that the water-soluble salts are salts of monovalent or divalent metals and of a mineral or organic acid. Composition according to any one of Claims 14 or 15, characterized in that the water-soluble salts are chosen from sodium chloride, potassium chloride, calcium chloride, magnesium sulfate, sodium citrate, the sodium salts of phosphoric acid. Composition according to any one of Claims 14 to 16, characterized in that the water-soluble salts are present at concentrations of between 0.1 and 10% by weight and preferably between 0.5 and 5% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition. 18. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 17, characterized in that the composition further comprises at least one water-soluble alcohol. Composition according to claim 18, characterized in that the water-soluble alcohols are the lower alcohols of Ci-Ce, such as ethanol, isopropanol, tertiobutanol, n-butanol, polyols such as alkylene glycols such as propylene glycol , glycerin and polyalkylene glycols; the glycol ethers. Composition according to any one of claims 18 or 19, characterized in that the water-soluble alcohols are used in concentrations generally comprised between 0.1 and 20% by weight and more particularly between 0.2 and 10% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition. the composition. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 20, characterized in that it also contains one or more adjuvants selected by cationic surfactants, anionic or non-ionic or amphoteric polymers, proteins, protein hydrolysates, ceramides, pseudoceramides, fatty acids with linear or branched chains of Ci6-C40 such as 18-methyl eicosanoic acid, hydroxy acids, vitamins, panthenol, volatile or non-volatile silicones, soluble or insoluble in the medium, UV filters, moisturizing agents, film or antiseborrhoeic antiforming agents, anti-free radical agents, opacifying agents and their mixtures. 22. Use of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 21, for cleaning and / or removing makeup from keratin materials. 23. Method for washing and conditioning keratin materials, such as hair, characterized in that it consists in applying an effective amount of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 21 to said wet materials, then in making a Rinse with water after an eventual resting time COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS DETERGENTS AND UTILIZATION SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION The invention relates to novel detergent and conditioning compositions comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one anionic surfactant, at least one amphoteric surfactant, at least one selected water-insoluble carboxylic acid ester: not exceeding 27 total number of carbon atoms of the ester if it does not contain unsaturation and 50 if it contains at least one unsaturation, the ester concentration being greater than 1% and the weight ratio of anionic surfactant / amphoteric surfactant less than or equal to 3. Application in the cleaning and care of hair or skin.