AU6248799A - Cosmetic compositions containing higher alkyl acetates as emollients - Google Patents

Description

WO 00/15190 PCT/US99/21172 COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS CONTAINING HIGHER ALKYL ACETATES AS EMOLLIENTS FIELD OF THE INVENTION 5 This application is based on U.S. Provisional Application, Serial No. 60/100746, filed on September 17, 1998. The present invention generally relates to the use of higher alkyl acetates, 10 particularly C 6

-C

1 3 alkyl acetates, as emollients in the preparation of cosmetic compositions, including clear stick antiperspirant compositions and other cosmetic compositions formulated for a variety of uses. In particular, the present invention relates to the replacement of a part or all of the commonly used emollients in cosmetic compositions. The compositions can be organic solvent based or 15 emulsion based. They can include solid cosmetic compositions such as sticks, semi-solid compositions such as creams and gels, and liquid compositions such as lotions. They may contain, in addition to the emollient of the present invention, at least one active cosmetic material such as a deodorant active material, antiperspirant active material, sunscreen active material, insect repellent active 20 material and anti-fungal active material. BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION Antiperspirant and deodorant products are well known in the cosmetic art. 25 To reduce odor and/or perspiration, they are applied to an area of the body such as the underarm to coat the skin with a layer of deodorant or antiperspirant composition. It is desirable that a deodorant or antiperspirant product is cosmetically 30 acceptable. It is also desirable that deodorant or antiperspirant product possess WO 00/15190 PCT/US99/21-172 2 aesthetic characteristics such as smoothness, non-oiliness, non-tackiness and clarity, without leaving a readily visible white residue on the skin after the deodorant or antiperspirant is applied. 5 Antiperspirant products have appeared in the marketplace in various dosage forms, such as sticks, gels, roll-ons, aerosols and creams. The dosage form can be in the form of a solution of the active ingredient in a suitable solvent, a suspension of the active ingredient in a non-solvent or it can be a multiphase dispersion or emulsion. If the dosage form is a multiphase dispersion or emulsion, 10 either a solution of the active ingredient is dispersed in some continuous phase or the solubilized active ingredient constitutes the continuous phase. Commercially, the stick form has become the dominant antiperspirant dosage form in the United States market, constituting more than 50% of total 15 antiperspirant sales, and is popular to varying degrees globally. Cosmetically acceptable antiperspirant sticks typically consist of a suspension of spray-dried active antiperspirant material in vehicles such as cyclomethicone, with a waxy substance such as stearyl alcohol, alone or in combination with castor wax, gelling or thickening the suspension sufficiently to create a suitable stick. 20 The stick form can be distinguished from a gel or a paste in that the formulated product in a stick can maintain its shape outside the package for extended periods of time without losing its shape to a significant extent, allowing for some shrinkage due to solvent evaporation. 25 The hard stick dosage form, although widely accepted by the consumer, suffers from leaving a white residue on skin after application, and can cause staining of fabric, which is considered to be undesirable, particularly by female consumers. The stick form can be formulated to eliminate the white residue; WO 00/15190 PCT/US99/21-172 3 however, the product appears initially as white and opaque, requiring consumer education and trial to fully appreciate the low-residue property. Clear antiperspirant sticks have been disclosed in numerous patents and 5 patent applications, for example, US 5490979 (Kasat, et al.), US 4722835 (Schamper, et al.), US 4719102 (Randhava, et al.), European Patent Application 512770A1 and WO96/26709, the contents of which are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety. 10 In these disclosures, an antiperspirant salt is dissolved in relatively polar organic solvents that are gelled with dibenzylidene sorbitol. A variety of basic salts and chelating agents are suggested to reduce tackiness and/or stickiness. One emollient frequently cited in examples includes diisopropyl sebacate, e. g., see US 5490979, EPA 512,770A1, and WO96/26709. None of these patents or patent 15 applications disclose the use of alkyl acetates as emollients. WO 97/06777 also discloses antiperspirant and deodorant compositions. Its contents are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety. The patent lists a large number of compounds suitable for use as emollients in the antiperspirant 20 and deodorant compositions. However, the patent does not mention the use of alkyl acetates as emollients. The present invention provides compositions that can be organic solvent based or emulsion-based and includes compositions such as sticks, creams, gels 25 and lotions containing the emollient of the present invention. In addition to the emollient, the compositions of the present invention can contain at least one active cosmetic material such as a deodorant active material, antiperspirant active material, sunscreen active material, insect repellent active 30 material and anti-fungal active material.

WO 00/15190 PCT/US99121172 4 The present inventors have unexpectedly discovered that by replacing the diisopropyl sebacate and C 1 2

-C

15 alkyl lactate emollients of the prior art with the

C

6

-C

13 alkyl acetate emollients of the present invention, clear stick antiperspirants 5 having good performance characteristics were obtained. The clear stick antiperspirants had about the same appearance and feel, had no objectionable odor, and could be produced at a substantially lower cost. The present inventors also envision that the use of these novel alkyl acetate 10 emollients as lower cost replacements for conventional emollients such as, isopropyl myristate, diisopropyl sebacate and C 2

-C

1 5 alkyl lactate can be extended to other cosmetic products for a variety of applications and in a variety of dosage forms. 15 The present invention also provides many additional advantages, which shall become apparent as described below. SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION 20 The present invention includes a cosmetic composition comprising at least one emollient selected from the group consisting of: C 6

-C

13 alkyl acetates. The cosmetic composition can be in the form of a cream, a dispersion, an emulsion, a foam, a gel, a lotion, an ointment, a semi-solid, a solid, a solution or a suspension. The cosmetic composition can be: (a) a liquid, such as an aqueous or organic 25 solvent-based solution or emulsion, including a cosmetic lotion; (b) a solid, such as a cosmetic stick; or (c) a semi-solid, such as a cosmetic cream or gel. The present invention more particularly includes a clear gel stick cosmetic composition, comprising: 30 (a) a cosmetically active ingredient; WO 00/15190 PCT/US99/21-172 5 (b) a gelling agent; (c) a solvent; and (d) at least one emollient selected from the group consisting of: C 6 -Ci 3 alkyl acetates. 5 The present invention also includes a process for preparing a clear gel stick antiperspirant composition, comprising: (1) admixing: (a) a first solution comprising a metal salt dissolved in a first solvent; and 10 (b) a second solution, comprising: (i) a gelling agent; (ii) a base; and (iii) at least one emollient selected from the group consisting of: C 6 -Cl 3 alkyl acetates; wherein said gelling agent, base and emollient are dissolved in a 15 second solvent; and (2) cooling the mixture of the first and second solutions to form a gel. Optionally, the clear cosmetic gel stick composition of the present invention may further contain at least one additional additive selected from the 20 group consisting of: other emollients, humectants, antiseptics, antioxidants, chelating agents, ultraviolet absorbers, colorants, fragrances, preservatives and gel stabilizing agents. Applicants have surprisingly discovered that replacing the diisopropyl 25 sebacate and C 2 -C 1 5 alkyl lactate emollients commonly used in the prior art with the C 6 -Cl 3 alkyl acetate emollients of the present invention produced clear gel stick antiperspirants having unique properties. For example, the clear gel stick antiperspirants or deodorants obtained using Cl 2 and/or C, 3 alkyl esters of the present invention had about the same appearance and feel as the compositions of 30 the prior art but had no objectionable odor. Furthermore, the clear gel stick WO 00/15190 PCT/US9921172 6 antiperspirants prepared in accordance with the present invention were obtained at a substantially lower cost than the compositions of the prior art that use, for example, isopropyl myristate, diisopropyl sebacate, C 12

-C

1 5 alkyl lactate and the like. 5 Depending on the active ingredient present, the clear gel stick composition of the present invention is suitable for use as a deodorant, an antiperspirant, a sunscreen, an insect repellent or an anti-fungal agent. 10 Other and further objects, advantages and features of the present invention will be understood by reference to the following specification. DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS 15 The present invention includes a cosmetic composition, comprising a cosmetically active ingredient, a gelling agent, a solvent and at least one emollient selected from the group consisting of: C 6

-C

1 3 alkyl acetates. The cosmetic composition can be in the form of a cream, a dispersion, an emulsion, a foam, a gel, a lotion, an ointment, a semi-solid, a solid, a solution or a suspension. The 20 cosmetic composition is preferably in the form of a solid such as a cosmetic stick, a semi-solid such as a cosmetic cream or gel or a liquid such as a cosmetic solution or emulsion. The composition of the present invention can also be formulated as a lotion. 25 One of the preferred embodiments of the present invention is a clear stick antiperspirant. The clear antiperspirant metal salt-containing, gel stick composition preferably comprises an effective amount of an metal salt, which preferably is an 30 antiperspirant metal salt, a gelling agent in an amount sufficient to gel the clear WO 00/15190 PCT/US99/21172 7 stick antiperspirant composition, a solvent in an amount sufficient to dissolve all of the metal salt and the gelling agent, an emollient comprising at least one member selected from the group consisting of: C 6

-C,

3 alkyl acetates in an amount sufficient for producing an emollient effect and a base in an amount sufficient to 5 stabilize the clear stick antiperspirant metal salt-containing, gel stick composition. The preferred solvents are those that are capable of dissolving all of the ingredients, including, particularly the gelling agent, for example, the benzylidene sorbitol. The preferred solvents include a monohydric and/or a polyhydric alcohol 10 selected from the group consisting of: (1) a monohydric alcohol of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, (2) a polyhydric alcohol selected from the group consisting of: ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-propylene glycol, 1,4-butylene glycol, PPG-10 butane diol, glycerin, and (3) a mixture thereof. The preferred solvent is propylene glycol. The solvent is present in the composition preferably at a level 15 from about 1 to about 80% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the gelling agent is dibenzylidene sorbitol, however, derivatives of sorbitol can also be used. The gelling agent can additionally contain 20 a co-gelling agent, such as, a hydroxyalkyl cellulose derivative including, particularly, hydroxyethyl cellulose and hydroxypropyl cellulose. The gelling agent is present in the composition preferably at a level from about 0.5 to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. 25 The base is present in the composition in an amount sufficient to stabilize the composition. Preferably, the base is selected from an organic base, an inorganic base and a mixture thereof. The role of the base is to prevent decomposition of the various ingredients present in the clear stick antiperspirant composition, thereby stabilizing the gel. The ingredient that is most susceptible to 30 decomposition in the highly acidic environment caused by most antiperspirant WO 00/15190 PCT/US99/21172 8 active materials is the dibenzylidene sorbitol gelling agent, which is protected by neutralizing the acidic antiperspirant active material with a base, including organic and inorganic bases and basic salts. The base is present in the composition preferably at a level from about 0.1 to about 3% by weight, based on the total 5 weight of the composition. To obtain a clear and homogeneous stick, the use of an organic base is generally preferred. The preferred organic base is a nitrogenous base such as amines. The preferred amines include tertiary amines, guanidine and a substituted 10 guanidine, as well as the organic or inorganic salts thereof. The salts can be prepared from the reaction of the amine with a strong or a weak acid. The preferred guanidine salt is selected from the group consisting of: guanidine carbonate, guanidine bicarbonate, guanidine phosphate, guanidine hydrochloride, guanidine nitrate, guanidine sulfate, guanidine bisulfate, guanidine sulfonate, 15 guanidine hydrobromide and a mixture thereof. Further examples of stabilizing agents are disclosed in the previously incorporated US 5490979, EPA 512,770A1, and WO 96/26709. The C 6 to C 13 alkyl acetate emollients of the present invention are alkyl 20 acetates derived from linear or branched C 6 to C 3 monohydric alcohols. As examples of such monohydric alcohols there may be mentioned normal and isomeric hexanols, hexanols, heptanols, octanols, n-nonanol, isononanol, n-decanol, isodecanol, n-undecanol, isoundecanol, n-dodecanol, isododecanol, tridecanol and other nonanols, decanols, undecanols, dodecanols, C 9 to C 12 oxo alcohols and 25 mixtures thereof. A preferred class of monohydric alcohols from which the C 6 to C 3 alkyl acetate emollients of the present invention can be prepared are the oxo alcohols.

WO 00/15190 PCT/US99/21172 9 Oxo alcohols are manufactured via a process comprising oligomerizing propylene and other olefins over a catalyst (e.g. a phosphoric acid on Kieselguhr clay) and then distilling to achieve various unsaturated (olefinic) streams. These streams are then reacted under hydroformylation conditions using a cobalt carbonyl 5 catalyst with synthesis gas (carbon monoxide and hydrogen) so as to produce a multi-isomer mix of aldehydes/alcohols. The mix of aldehydes/alcohols is then introduced to a hydrogenation reactor and hydrogenated to a mixture of branched alcohols comprising mostly alcohols of one carbon greater than the number of carbons in the feed olefin stream. 10 The branched oxo alcohols are monohydric oxo alcohols which have a carbon number in the range between about C 6 to C 13 . It is desirable to have a branched oxo alcohol comprising multiple isomers, preferably more than 3 isomers, most preferably more than 5 isomers. 15 Branched oxo alcohols may be produced in the so-called "oxo" process by hydroformylation of commercial branched C 5 to Cl 2 olefin fractions to a corresponding branched C 6 to C 13 alcohol/aldehyde-containing oxonation product. In the process for forming oxo alcohols, it is desirable to form an alcohol/aldehyde 20 intermediate from the oxonation product followed by conversion of the crude oxo alcohol/aldehyde product to an all oxo alcohol product. The production of branched oxo alcohols from the cobalt catalyzed hydroformylation of an olefinic feedstream preferably comprises the following 25 steps: (a) hydroformylating an olefinic feedstream by reaction with carbon monoxide and hydrogen (e.g. synthesis gas) in the presence of a hydroformylation catalyst under reaction conditions that promote the formation of an alcohol/aldehyde-rich crude reaction product; WO 00/15190 PCT/US99/21172 10 (b) demetalling the alcohol/aldehyde-rich crude reaction product to recover therefrom the hydroformylation catalyst and a substantially catalyst-free, alcohol/aldehyde-rich crude reaction product; and (c) hydrogenating the alcohol/aldehyde-rich crude reaction product in 5 the presence of a hydrogenation catalyst (e.g. massive nickel catalyst) to produce an alcohol-rich reaction product. In the preparation of the oxo alcohols, the olefinic feedstream can be any C 5 to Cl 2 olefin. Preferably, the olefinic feedstream comprises a branched C 8 to C,, 10 olefin, although a linear olefin that is capable of producing all branched oxo alcohols can be also used. Hydroformylation and subsequent hydrogenation of the C 8 to C,, olefins in the presence of an alcohol-forming catalyst produces branched C 9 to C 1 2, alcohols. Each of the branched oxo C 9 to Cl 2 alcohols formed by the oxo process typically comprises a mixture of branched oxo alcohol isomers, e.g. 3,5-dimethyl 15 heptanol; 4,5-dimethyl heptanol; 3,4-dimethyl heptanol; 5-methyl octanol; 4-methyl octanol; 3,5-dimethyl octanol; 5-methyl decanol; 3,4-dimethyl decanol; 4-methyl undecanol and mixtures of other methyl and dimethyl heptanols, octanols, decanols and undecanols. Especially preferred are C 9 to Cl 2 oxo alcohols. 20 Also useful as extenders are the acetic acid esters of the aforementioned C 9 to Cl 2 monohydric alcohols. Preferred are the acetates of C 9 to Cl 2 alcohols, especially acetates of C 9 to C 1 2 oxo alcohols. In addition to C 9 to C 1 2 oxo alcohol acetates, the C 6

-C,

3 alkyl acetates 25 suitable for use in the present invention include the EXXATE® Fluids marketed by Exxon Chemical Company. The most preferred alkyl acetate emollient is dodecyl acetate, tridecyl acetate and a mixture thereof.

WO 00/15190 PCT/US99/21172 11 The C 6

-C

3 alkyl acetates are included in the compositions of the present invention at a level preferably from about 0.01 to 40 wt%, based on the weight of the total composition, more preferably from about 0.5 to 20 wt%. 5 The emollients of the present invention are especially useful in antiperspirant compositions that require polar solvents such as propylene glycol to dissolve the active antiperspirant material. Such compositions are often incompatible with non-polar emollients such as silicone oils and isoparaffins. 10 In a preferred embodiment, the clear, gel stick antiperspirant composition of the present invention comprises an effective amount of (a) an antiperspirant metal salt selected from the group consisting of: an aluminum salt, a zirconium salt and an aluminum-zirconium salt, (b) dibenzylidene sorbitol in an amount sufficient to gel the composition, (c) a solvent in an amount sufficient to dissolve 15 all of the dibenzylidene sorbitol, (d) a guanidine salt in an amount sufficient to stabilize the gel stick composition and (e) tridecyl acetate in an amount sufficient for producing an emollient effect. The present invention also includes a process for preparing a clear gel stick 20 antiperspirant composition, comprising: (1) admixing: (a) a first heated solution of an effective amount of an antiperspirant metal salt dissolved in a first solvent; and (b) a second heated solution, comprising, in a second solvent: 25 (i) a gelling agent in an amount sufficient to gel the antiperspirant composition; (ii) a base in an amount sufficient to stabilize the antiperspirant composition; and (iii) at least one emollient selected from the group consisting of: C 6

-C

1 3 30 alkyl acetates in an amount sufficient for producing an emollient effect; wherein WO 00/15190 PCT/US99/21172 12 the second solvent is present in an amount sufficient to dissolve all the ingredients of the antiperspirant composition; and wherein the mixing of the first and second solutions is carried out for a period of time sufficiently short to minimize degradation of gelling agent and sufficiently long to provide mixing of the first 5 and the second solutions; and (2) cooling the mixture of the first and second solutions to form a gel. Throughout the present disclosure, the present invention is described primarily in connection with a clear gel stick antiperspirant composition. 10 However, the present invention is not limited to clear stick compositions or to antiperspirant compositions. For example, compositions according to the present invention can be clear deodorant stick compositions. Moreover, depending on additional or other active ingredients included in the composition, the composition can also be an emollient composition, an analgesic (methyl salicylate) 15 composition, a sunscreen composition, etc. Various active materials that can be incorporated in cosmetic compositions are disclosed in U.S. Patent No. 4,322,400 to Yuhas, the contents of which are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety. 20 A desired feature of the present invention is that a clear or transparent cosmetic stick composition (e.g., a clear or transparent deodorant or antiperspirant stick composition) can be provided. The term clear or transparent (that is clarity), according to the present invention, is intended to denote its usual dictionary definition; thus, a clear cosmetic gel composition at the present invention allows 25 ready viewing of objects behind it. By contrast, a translucent composition allows light to pass through, but causes the light to be so scattered that it will be impossible to see clearly objects behind the translucent composition. Any of the known antiperspirant active materials can be utilized in the 30 composition at the present invention. Materials suitable for use in the composition WO 00/15190 PCT/US99/21172 . 13 of the present invention include aluminum chlorhydrate, aluminum chloride, aluminum sesquichiorohydrate, aluminum-zirconium hydroxychlorides, complexes or adducts of the above-mentioned active ingredients with glycol, such as propylene glycol, and combinations thereof. Known aluminum-zirconium salts 5 in combination with neutral amino acids, such as glycine (e.g., aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydroxy) can also be used. Generally, any of the Category I active antiperspirant ingredients, listed in the Food and Drug Administration's Monograph on Antiperspirant Drug Products for overall-the-counter human use (October 10, 1973) can be used. In addition, any new ingredient, not listed in the 10 Monograph, such as aluminum nitrohydrate and its combination with zirconyl hydroxychlorides and nitrates, or aluminum-stannous chlorohydrates, can be incorporated as an antiperspirant active ingredient in antiperspirant compositions according to the present invention. 15 Antiperspirant active materials can be selected from, but are not limited to, the following: Antiperspirant Actives Astringent salt of aluminum Aluminum sesquichlorohydrex PEG Astringent salt of zirconium Aluminum chloride Aluminum bromohydrate Aluminum sulfate Aluminum chlorohydrate Aluminum zirconium chlorohydrate Aluminum dichlorohydrate Aluminum zirconium Aluminum sesquichiorohydrate trichlorohydrate Aluminum chlorohydrex PG Aluminum zirconium Aluminum dichlorohydrex PG tetrachlorohydrate Aluminum sesquichlorohydrex PG Aluminum zirconium Aluminum chlorohydrex PEG pentachlorohydrate Aluminum dichlorohydrex PEG WO 00/15190 PCT/US99f21172 14 Aluminum zirconium Aluminum zirconium octachlorohydrate octachlorohydrex Gly Aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrex Buffered aluminum sulfate Gly Potassium alum Aluminum zirconium Sodium aluminum chlorohydroxy tetrachiorohydrex Gly lactate Aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrex Gly The preferred antiperspirant materials include aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrate (aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrex GLY ) or aluminum chlorohydrate. 5 The amount of active component that can be used will vary with the particular active ingredient incorporated. As a general rule, an antiperspirant product should contain an active antiperspirant material in an amount from about 0.5% to about 35% by weight, of the total weight of the composition, more 10 preferably from about 20% to about 30% by weight, of the total weight of the composition. The active antiperspirant material utilized in the compositions of the present invention is preferably pre-dissolved in a solvent such as propylene glycol and remains in solution until mixing. 15 Amounts of cosmetically active ingredients incorporated are those sufficient to have a cosmetic effect. For example, where a deodorant active ingredient such as triclosan is incorporated, amounts thereof as conventionally used in the art can be incorporated in the composition according to the present invention. 20 The composition also includes a C 6

-C

13 alkyl acetate as an emollient. As mentioned above, clear stick antiperspirants containing higher alkyl acetates such WO 00/15190 PCT/US99/21172 . 15 as tridecyl acetate (C 13 alkyl acetate) have no objectionable odor, however odor increases with decreasing number of the carbon atoms in the alkyl group. The composition according to the present invention can further include 5 additional emollients and other cosmetically active ingredients known in the art, including ingredients such as humectants, antiseptics, antioxidants, chelating agents, ultraviolet absorbers, colorants, fragrances and preservatives, as described, for example, in the previously incorporated WO 97/06777. 10 EXAMPLE 1 Sample 1 is a control prepared in accordance with the procedure of Example 24 disclosed in the previously incorporated U.S. Patent No. 5,490,979 of the prior art. Samples 2 and 3 are samples in accordance with the present invention. 15 TABLE 1 SAMPLE 1 2 3 Rezal 36 GPG ( ) 44.7 44.7 44.7 Propylene glycol 31.5 31.5 31.5 20 Polyethylene Glycol 5.0 5.0 5.0 PPG-10 Butanediol (2) 8.0 8.0 8.0 Guanidine Carbonate 0.7 0.7 0.7 Benzylidene Sorbitol 2.5 2.5 2.5 Dimethicone Copolyol 2.0 2.0 25 2.0 Diisopropyl Sebacate 2.0 --- --

C

1 2

-C

15 Alkyl Lactates 2.0 --- --

C

13 Alkyl Acetate --- 4.0

--

C

12 Alkyl Acetate --- --- 4.0 30 WO 00/15190 PCT/US99/21-172 16 (1) 30% by weight solution of aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrex GLY antiperspirant active in propylene glycol (2) Polyoxypropylene ether of butane diol 5 Three clear stick antiperspirants were prepared using the compositions of Samples 1, 2 and 3 shown in Table 1 above. The clear stick antiperspirants were prepared using the same ingredients used in Sample 1, with the exception that diisopropyl sebacate and Cl 2

-C

1 5 alkyl lactates were replaced by either tridecyl acetate as in Sample 2 or dodecyl acetate as in Sample 3. Clear stick 10 antiperspirants prepared from the compositions of Samples 2 or 3 exhibited the same or better clarity than that prepared from the composition of Sample I and had no objectionable odor. Furthermore, clear stick antiperspirants prepared from the compositions of Samples 2 or 3 had substantial cost advantages over the clear stick antiperspirant prepared from the composition of Sample 1. 15 EXAMPLE 2 Bath Oil with Plant Oils: Wt% A Miglyol 812 15.0 20 Miglyol 840 15.0 Softigen 767 10.0 Softisan 645 10.0 Soya bean oil 27.0

C

1 2 or C 13 alkyl acetate 10.0 25 Hostaphat KL 340 N 13.0 Color q.s.

WO 00/15190 PCT/US9921172 . 17 Antioxidants q.s. Perfume q.s. Procedure: 5 All the components are mixed together and stirred at room temperature until homogeneous. The bath oil has a low viscosity. EXAMPLE 3 Foam Bath with Almond Oil: 10 Wt% / o A Marlowet OA 4/1 30.0

C

1 2 or C 1 3 alkyl acetate 22.0 Almond oil 8.0 B Marlinat 242/70 25.0 15 Glycerol DAB 9 10.0 Marlamid DF 1218 3.0 Water to 100.0 C Perfume q.s. Preservative q.s. 20 Procedure: Heat A and B to 70-75 'C. Add B slowly to A with stirring. Add perfume and preservative at 30 oC.

WO 00/15190 PCT/US99/21172 18 EXAMPLE 4 Foam Bath Oil Wt% A Marlowet R 11/K 30.0 5 Pine-needle oil 20.0

C

12 or C 1 3 alkyl acetate 10.0 B Marlinat 242/70 11.0 Lipoxol 600 MED 13.0 Water to 100 .0 10 C Preservative q.s. Procedure: Heat A and B to 70-75 oC. Add B slowly to A with stirring. Add perfume and preservative at 30 oC. 15 EXAMPLE 5 High Shine Lipstick Wt% Castor Oil 39.4 20 Cl 2 or C 13 alkyl acetate 20.0 Candelilla Wax 8.0 Acetulan 7.5 Wax 1275W 5.0 WO 00/15190 PCT/US99/21172 19 Propylene Glycol Monolaurate 5.0 Lanogene 5.0 Carnauba Wax 2.0 Propyl Paraben 0.1 5 Timiron MP- 10 7.0 D & C Red #9 (31-3009) 0.8 D & C Red #7 Ca Lake (3107) 0.3 Pur. Navy Blue #7110 0.1 Fragrance q.s. 10 Procedure: Grind the pigments in part of the Castor Oil using either a 3-roll mill or mortar/pestle. Add all other ingredients (except for pearlescent pigment and fragrance and heat gently on steam bath to 80-85 oC. Add pearl, mix until 15 homogeneous. Fragrance should be added at lowest possible temperature. Cast into molds. EXAMPLE 6 Lipstick Formulation 20 Wt% Synthetic Candelilla Wax 10.9 Cl 2 or C 3 alkyl acetate 9.5 Lanolin N.F. 4.4 WO 00/15190 PCT/US99/21172 20 White Beeswax N.F. 3.3 Refined Paraffin Wax 130/35 2.0 White Ozokerite Wax 77W 0.9 Castor Oil 54.3 5 Pigment 12.0 Teg. "P" 0.1 EXAMPLE 7 Stick Type Lip Gloss 10 Wt% 1. Ozokerite White 170 7.5 2. Candelilla Wax Light Refined 9.5 3. Carnauba Wax Yellow USP #1 2.5 4. Ceraphyl 50 3.0 15 5. Lanogene 5.0 6. Acetol 1706 11.5 7. Flexricin 9 10.0 8. Bentone Gel CAO 27.5 9. Lexol PG 8/10 12.8 20 10. C, 2 or C 1 3 alkyl acetate 5.0 11. Propyl Paraben 0.1 12. Tenox 4 0.1 13. Pigment Concentrate*

)

5.0 WO 00/15190 PCT/US99/21172 . 21 14. Fragrance 0.5 (I) Pigment Concentrate: Castor Oil 75.00 5 D&C Red #21 Aluminum Lake 15.00 Cosmetic Brown C-33 115 10.00 Procedure: 1. Weigh items 1 through 12 into a stainless steel jacketed kettle. 10 Heat to 85 oC until melted clear. 2. Bring temperature down to 80 oC. Add and mix in item 13 using homomixer at medium speed. Mix for 30 minutes at 80 oC. 3 Continue mixing at medium speed, lower temperature to 70 oC, and add item 14. Remove heat and stir slowly until congealed, or pour into trays. 15 4. When casting, melt and pour molten mass into mold at 75 oC with slow agitation (avoid air entrapment). To obtain a shiny polished surface, the sticks may be surface flamed. Pigment Concentrate Preparation: 20 1. Weigh dry powder and mix to the castor oil using a slow speed Hobart type mixture until uniform. 2. Give this concentrate two passes over a 3 roller mill at room temperature.

WO 00/15190 PCT/US99/21172 . 22 EXAMPLE 8 Light Texture Hand Creme Part A: Wt% Phospholipid SV 3.00 5 Steareth-20 0.45 Glycerin 5.00 Methyl Paraben 0.25 Water 77.75 10 Part B: Steareth-2 0.80 Cetearyl Alcohol 3.50 Myristyl Myristate 3.50 Finsolv TN 1.50 15 C 12 or C 13 alkyl acetate 3.00 Dimethicone (100 cS) 1.00 Propyl Paraben 0.25 Procedure: 20 Heat both phases to 6 5 °C, and homogenize the oil phase into the water phase. Stir-cool to 40 'C and add fragrance, coloring or preservative as required.

WO 00/15190 PCT/US99/21-172 23 EXAMPLE 9 Facial Moisture Creme Part A: Wt% Phospholipid SV 3.00 5 Steareth-20 0.20 Methyl Paraben 0.25 Water 81.50 Part B: 10 Steareth-2 1.30 Cetearyl Alcohol 4.00 Myristyl Myristate 4.00 C 12 or C 13 alkyl acetate 4.00 Dimethicone (100 cS) 1.00 15 Lanolin Alcohol 0.50 Propyl Paraben 0.25 Procedure: Heat both phases to 65 °C, and homogenize the oil phase into the water 20 phase. Stir-cool to 40 oC and add fragrance, coloring or preservative as required.

WO 00/15190 PCT/US99121172 24 EXAMPLE 10 Moisturizing Cream Phase A: Wt% Distilled water q.s. to 100 5 Propylene glycol, USP 4.00 Phase B: Polawax emulsifying wax, NF 3.00 Arlacel 165 glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate 3.00 10 Myverol 18-06 distilled monoglyceride 3.00 C 12 or C 13 alkyl acetate 5.00 Robane squalane NF 5.00 Epolene N-34 polyethylene wax 1.00 15 Phase C: Distilled water 10.00 Propylene glycol 3.00 Eastman AQ 55S polymer 1.00 20 Phase D: Eastman vitamin E TPGS (20%) 1.00 WO 00/15190 PCT/US99/21172 25 Phase E: Fragrance q.s. Preservative q.s. 5 pH: 5.5 Procedure: 1. Prepare Phase C by adding propylene glycol to water and heating to 95 'C and then adding Eastman AQ 55S with mixing. Allow to cool to 70 oC. 10 2. Heat Phase A with mixing to 95 oC. 3. Heat Phase B with mixing to 105-110 'C. 4. Cool Phase B to 95 oC and add to Phase A with propeller mixing. 5. Continue mixing and cool to 70 'C, avoiding air entrapment. 6. At 70 'C, add Phase C. 15 7. Continue mixing and cool to 50 'C; then add Phase C and Phase E. 8. With mixing, force cool to room temperature. Product will thicken and form a cream at 44 'C. EXAMPLE 11 20 Alcoholic Milk Lotion Wt% A Stearic Acid 2.0 Cetyl Alcohol 1.0 WO 00/15190 PCT/US99t21172 26 C 12 or C 13 alkyl acetate 2.0 Glyceryl Monostearate (Self Emulsifying) 1.1 Polyoxyethylene (20) Cetyl Ether 1.9 Methyl Paraben q.s. 5 B Ajidew N-50 3.0 Propylene Glycol 5.0 Water 74.0 10 C Ethyl Alcohol 10.0 Procedure: 1. Heat A and B to 80 'C. 2. Add B to A slowly with agitation. 15 3. Cool to 50 'C with stirring and add C. 4. Finish mixing at 35- 40 oC. pH: 5.1 Viscosity: About 270 cps WO 00/15190 PCT/US99/21172 27 EXAMPLE 12 Milk Lotion Wt% 5 A Liquid Paraffin (#70) 30.0

C

1 2 or C, 3 alkyl acetate 1.6 Paraffin Wax (mp 42- 44 'C) 4.5 Cetyl Alcohol 4.5 Sorbitan Monostearate 1.8 10 Polyoxyethylene (20) Sorbitan Monooleate 2.8 Tocopherol Acetate 0.2 B Ajidew T-50 4.0 Water 50.5 15 Preservative 0.1 Procedure: 1. Heat A and B to 80 oC. 2. Add B to A with agitation. 20 3. Cool to 42 'C with stirring. pH: 6.2 Viscosity: 25,000 cps WO 00/15190 PCT/US99/21-172 28 EXAMPLE 13 Isopropyl Myristate Lotion Wt% 5 A Isopropyl myristate 5.00

C

12 or C 13 alkyl acetate 5.00 Arlacel 60 1.60 Arlasolve 200L 3.33 B Water, deionized 84.07 10 Carbopol 934 0.40 C Sodium hydroxide (10% W/W aqueous) 0.40 D Dowicil 200 0.10 E Fragrance 0.10 15 Procedure: Heat A to 65 'C and B to 60 oC. Add A to B slowly with moderate anchor type agitation and add C. Add D at about 50 oC. Add E at 35 'C and add water to compensate for loss due to evaporation.

WO 00/15190 PCT/US99/21172 29 EXAMPLE 14 Skin Moisturizing Lotion Phase A: Wt% 5 Polypentaerythrityl Tetralaurate 4.00 Glyceryl Stearate/PEG 100 Stearate (Arlacel 165) 5.00 Carnation Mineral Oil 3.50

C

12 or C, 3 alkyl acetate 2.00 Propylene Glycol Dipelargonate (Emerest 2388) 1.00 10 Beeswax 2.00 Stearic Acid 1.00 Stearyl Alcohol 0.50 Cyclomethicone (Dow Coming Fluid 344) 0.50 15 Phase B: Water 67.70 Carbomer 934, 3% solution (Carbopol 934) 7.50 Propylene Glycol 3.50 20 Phase C: Triethanolamine 0.80 WO 00/15190 PCT/US99/21172 30 Phase D: Germaben II-E 1.00 Procedure: 5 Heat Phase A and Phase B separately to 75 oC and add B to A with agitation. Then add Phase C. Cool to 40 'C and add Phase D. EXAMPLE 15 Dry Skin Lotion 10 Phase A: Wt% Cetyl Alcohol 2.00% Estol EHP 1543 2.00 Trivent NP-13 4.00 Carnation Mineral Oil 0.50 15 C 12 or C 13 alkyl acetate 0.50 DC Silicone 1.00 Brij 58 1.00 Brij 20 1.00 20 Phase B: Deionized water 81.50 Carbopol 940 0.50 Dermacryl-79 1.00 WO 00/15190 PCT/US99/21172 31 Pricerine 9083 3.00 Triethanolamine (99%) 1.00 Phase C: 5 Germaben II E 1.00 Phase D: Fragrance q.s. 10 EXAMPLE 16 Moisturizing Lotion Wt% A Veegum 1.0 Rhodigel 0.5 15 Deionized Water 74.5 B Sodium PCA 3.0 Glycerine 5.0 20 C Hydrogenated Polyisobutene 4.0 Mineral Oil and Lanolin Alcohol 3.0 Cetyl Alcohol 2.0

C

1 2 or C 13 alkyl acetate 2.0 WO 00/15190 PCT/US99/21172 32 Sorbitan Palmitate 1.2 Polysorbate 40 3.8 D Citric Acid to pH 5.5 q.s. 5 Preservative, Dye, Fragrance q.s. Procedure: Dry blend Veegum and Rhodigel and add to the water, mixing with maximum available shear until smooth and uniform. Add B ingredients and mix 10 until dissolved. Mix C ingredients and heat to 50 'C until a uniform clear mixture is obtained. Add C to (A+B) with high speed mixing. Avoid incorporating air. Cool with continuous stirring to 30 oC and add D. Medium Viscosity Lotion (Viscosity: 1900-2400 cps). 15 EXAMPLE 17 Moisturizing Lotion (Ultra) Wt% A Veegum Ultra (Mgnesium Aluminum Silicate) 0.15 Carbomer 980 (Carbopol 980) 0.15 20 Deionized Water 73.70 B Glycerin 5.00 WO 00/15190 PCT/US99/21172 33 C Mineral Oil and Lanolin Alcohol 4.00 Cetyl Alcohol 2.00 Isopropyl Palmitate 2.00 Hydrogenated Polyisobutene 5.00 5 Cl 2 or C 1 3 alkyl acetate 3.00 Sorbitan Palmitate 1.20 Polysorbate 40 3.80 D Preservative, Fragrance q.s. 10 10% Sodium Hydroxide Solution to pH 6.0 q.s. Procedure: Dry blend Veegum Ultra and Carbomer and add them slowly to the water while stirring with a propeller mixer at 700 rpm. Increase the mixer speed to 15 1500-1700 rpm and continue mixing for 30 minutes. Add B and mix 5 minutes. Mix C ingredients and heat to 50 oC. Heat mixture of A and B to 50 oC. Add C to A and B and mix at 50 oC and 1500-1700 rpm for 10 minutes. Slow the mixer to 1000 rpm while cooling to 30 oC. Add D and mix until uniform. Product Characteristics: 20 Viscosity: 2200-2800 cps pH: 6.0 + 0.2 WO 00/15190 PCT/US99/21-172 34 EXAMPLE 18 Body Lotion Wt% A Miglyol 840 5.0 5 C 12 or C 13 alkyl acetate 2.0 Imwitor 960 flakes 4.0 Marlophor T10 Na salt 2.0 Cetyl alcohol 0.3 10 B Hostacerin gel 1%* 12.5 Karion F 5.0 Water to 100.0 C Perfume q.s. 15 Preservative q.s. *Preparation of the Hostacerin gel: Hostacerin PN73 1.0% Water to 100.0% 20 The Hostacerin is mixed with water until homogeneous and the mixture stirred until the gel is clear. Procedure: WO 00/15190 PCT/US99/21172 35 The constituents of A are mixed and heated to 75-80 oC. Those of B are brought to the same temperature and gradually stirred into A. C is incorporated at approximately 30 'C. 5 EXAMPLE 19 Solar Tanning Oil Wt% Cocoanut Oil #76 15.0 Dow coming #344 16.0 10 C, 2 or Cl 3 alkyl acetate 13.0 Mineral Oil #7 42.0 Acetulan 8.0 Glucam P-20 2.0 Jojoba Oil 2.0 15 Escalol 507 2.0 Fragrance q.s. EXAMPLE 20 Sunscreen Lotion SPF 18 20 Wt% A Neo Heliopan, Type AV 7.500 Neo Heliopan, Type MA 5.000 Cl 2 or C 13 alkyl acetate 3.000 WO 00/15190 PCT/US99/21172 36 Myrj 52 2.000 Cutina MD 3.000 Promulgen D 2.000 Antaron V-220 4.000 5 Baysilone Fluid M 10 2.000 B Demineralized water 45.830 Carbopol 940 (2% Solution) 15.000 1,2-Propylene glycol 2.000 10 Trilon BD 0.100 C Neo Heliopan Type Hydro (30% aq. Solution neutralized with triethanolamine, 2% active) 6.670 15 D Triethanolamine 0.500 E Germaben II 1.000 Perfume Oil 0.400 20 Procedure: In a suitable vessel weigh phase A and heat to 75 'C with agitation. In another vessel able to contain the entire batch, weigh phase B and heat to 75 oC WO 00/15190 PCT/US9921172 37 with agitation. Slowly add phase A to phase B, mix for 10 minutes and add phase C. Mix until uniform and start cooling with continuous agitation. Cool to 40 oC and add phases D and E. Continue cooling with agitation to 28-25 'C and package. 5 EXAMPLE 21 Cream Sachet Wt% A Arlacel 165 16.00 10 Spermaceti 5.30 Cetyl alcohol 5.00 Cl 2 or C 13 alkyl acetate 3.00 B Atlas G-2162 2.00 15 Water, deionized 59.00 Preservative q.s. C Fragrance 10.00 20 Procedure: Heat A to 75 oC. Heat B to 77 'C. Add B to A slowly with moderate but thorough agitation. Add C at 45 'C. Stir until cool (room temperature) and package.

WO 00/15190 PCT/US99/21172 . 38 EXAMPLE 22 Liquid Cologne Wt% 5 Perfume oil 5.00 Tween 20 20.00 Cl 2 or C 13 alkyl acetate 1.50 Water 73.50 Preservative q.s. 10 Procedure: Mix the perfume oil and Tween 20. Slowly add this mixture to the water and add preservative. Stir until a clear product forms. 15 EXAMPLE 23 Pharmaceutical Cream Base Wt% A Stearic acid 10.00 Stearyl Alcohol 5.00 20 Corn oil 3.00

C

1 2 or C 1 3 alkyl acetate 2.00 Myrj 52 3.00 Span 60 2.00 WO 00/15190 PCT/US99/21-172 39 B Sorbitol Solution USP 5.00 Water 70.00 Procedure: Heat A to 70 oC and B to 72 oC. Add B to A with agitation. Stir until set. 5 EXAMPLE 24 Pharmaceutical Ointment Base Wt% A Cetyl Alcohol 20.00 10 Corn oil 15.00 Cl 2 or C, 3 alkyl acetate 5.00 Tween 80 4.50 Span 80 0.50 15 B Water 55.00 Procedure: Heat A to 70 oC and B to 72 'C. Add B to A with agitation. Stir until set. 20 While we have shown and described several embodiments in accordance with our invention, it is to be clearly understood that the same are susceptible to numerous changes apparent to one skilled in the art. Therefore, we do not wish to be limited to the details shown and described but intend to show all changes and modifications that come within the scope of the appended claims.

Claims (36)

1. A cosmetic composition comprising at least one emollient selected from the group consisting of: C 6 -C 13 alkyl acetates. 5

2. The cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein said cosmetic composition is in a form selected from the group consisting of: a cream, a dispersion, an emulsion, a foam, a gel, a lotion, an ointment, a semi-solid, a solid, a solution and a suspension. 10

3. The cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein said cosmetic composition is in a form selected from the group consisting of: a liquid, a solid and a semi-solid. 15

4. The cosmetic composition of claim 3, wherein said liquid is an aqueous or organic solvent-based solution or emulsion.

5. The cosmetic composition of claim 4, wherein said emulsion is a cosmetic lotion. 20

6. The cosmetic composition of claim 3, wherein said solid is a cosmetic stick

7. The cosmetic composition of claim 3, wherein said semi-solid is a 25 cosmetic cream or gel.

8. The cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein said emollient is selected from the group consisting of C 9 -C, alkyl acetates derived from an oxo alcohol. 30 WO 00/15190 PCT/US9921172 . 41

9. The cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein said emollient is selected from the group consisting of: dodecyl acetate, tridecyl acetate and a mixture thereof. 5

10. The cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein the amount of said emollient is 0.01 to 40 wt% based upon the total weight of the composition.

11. A clear gel cosmetic composition comprising: 10 (a) a cosmetically active ingredient; (b) a gelling agent; (c) a solvent; and (d) at least one emollient selected from the group consisting of: C 6 -C 1 3 alkyl acetates. 15

12. The composition of claim 11, wherein said emollient is selected from the group consisting of: dodecyl acetate, tridecyl acetate and a mixture thereof. 20

13. The composition of claim 12, wherein said emollient is present in an amount from about 0.01 to 40 wt% based upon the total weight of the composition. 25

14. The composition of claim 12, wherein said emollient is present in an amount from 0.5 to 20 wt% based upon the total weight of the composition.

15. The composition of claim 11, wherein said cosmetically active ingredient is a metal salt. 30 WO 00/15190 PCT/US99/-21172 42

16. The composition of claim 15, wherein said cosmetically active ingredient is selected from the group consisting of: an aluminum salt, a zirconium salt and an aluminum-zirconium salt. 5

17. The composition of claim 16, wherein said aluminum salt is either aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrate or aluminum chlorohydrate.

18. The composition of claim 11, wherein said cosmetically active ingredient is present in an amount from about 0.5% to 35% by weight, based on 10 the total weight of the composition

19. The composition of claim 11, wherein said gelling agent is dibenzylidene sorbitol. 15

20. The composition of claim 11, wherein said gelling agent is present at a level from about 0.5 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. 20

21. The composition of claim 11, wherein said solvent is selected from the group consisting of: a monohydric alcohol, a polyhydric alcohol and a mixture thereof.

22. The composition of claim 21, wherein said monohydric alcohol is 25 an alcohol comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms.

23. The composition of claim 21, wherein said a polyhydric alcohol is selected from the group consisting of: ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3 propylene glycol, 1,4-butylene glycol, polyoxypropylene ether of butane diol, 30 glycerin and a mixture thereof. WO 00/15190 PCT/US99/21172 . 43

24. The composition of claim 21, wherein said alcohol is selected from the group consisting of: ethanol, propanol, butanol, propylene glycol, glycerin and a mixture thereof. 5

25. The composition of claim 11, wherein said solvent is present at a level from about 1 to 80% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. 10

26. The composition of claim 11, further comprising a base in an amount sufficient to stabilize said composition.

27. The composition of claim 26, wherein said base is selected from the group comprising: an organic base, an inorganic base and a mixture thereof. 15

28. The composition of claim 26, wherein said base is a guanidine salt selected from the group consisting of: guanidine carbonate, guanidine bicarbonate, guanidine phosphate, guanidine hydrochloride, guanidine nitrate, guanidine sulfonate, guanidine bisulfate, guanidine hydrobromide and a mixture thereof. 20

29. The composition of claim 26, wherein said base is present at a level from about 0.1 to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

30. A process for preparing a clear gel stick antiperspirant composition 25 comprising: (1) admixing: (a) a first solution comprising a metal salt dissolved in a first solvent; and (b) a second solution comprising: 30 (i) a gelling agent; WO 00/15190 PCT/US99/21172 44 (ii) a base; and (iii) at least one emollient selected from the group consisting of: C 6 -C 13 alkyl acetates; wherein said gelling agent, base and emollient are dissolved in a second solvent; and 5 (2) cooling the mixture of the first and second solutions to form a gel.

31. The process of claim 30, wherein said solvent is selected from the group consisting of: a monohydric alcohol, a polyhydric alcohol and a mixture thereof. 10

32. The process of claim 30, wherein said solvent is selected from the group consisting of: ethanol, propanol, butanol, propylene glycol, glycerin and a mixture thereof. 15

33. The process of claim 30, wherein said first and second solvents are the same.

34. The process of claim 30, wherein said first solution is heated to a temperature in the range between about 90 to 120 oC before mixing with said 20 second solution.

35. The process of claim 30, wherein said second solution is heated to a temperature in the range between about 90 to 120 'C before mixing with said first solution. 25

36. The process of claim 30, wherein said mixing of the first and second solutions is carried out for a period of time sufficiently short to minimize degradation of gelling agent and sufficiently long to provide mixing of the first and second solutions.