AU2007294013A1 - Agents containing bioquinones and 2-furanone derivatives - Google Patents

Description

WO 2008/028774 A l PCT/EP2007/058483 H 07230 PCT AGENTS CONTAINING BIOQUINONES AND 2-FURANONE DERIVATIVES [0002] The invention relates to hair treatment agents, comprising at least one bioquinone and at least one specific 2-furanone derivative. The invention further relates to a method for activating hair growth by use of the agent as well as the use of the agent for activating hair growth. [0003] Hair follicle cells are subject to a genetically determined cycle of growth, regression and dormancy. The hair follicle is thus the only organ that constantly renews itself and thereby possesses a unique metabolism that depends on the respective growth phase. The synthesis of the structure-providing keratin is also linked to this cycle. This cycle is controlled by a small, highly specialized cell population in the hair bulb - the cutaneous papillary cells - by means of a unique, complex system of molecular signals which is specific for each phase of the hair cycle (Botchkarev VA et al. (2003) J Investig Dermatol Symp Proc 8: 46-55). If the metabolism of these highly specialized cells is intended to be modulated by the use of a test formulation, then it is essential to target the appropriate mechanism. [0004] Hepatocyte Growth Factor (HGF) and Keratinocyte Growth Factor (KGF) are important growth factors that are discharged from the cutaneous papilla so as to control the proliferation of the hair keratinocytes that are responsible for the synthesis of the keratin in hair. Moreover, they are characteristic markers for the anagen phase, in which the keratin synthesis is also at a maximum. Furthermore, it should be- noted that the proliferation capability of the hair follicle cells decreases as the hair ages. Consequently, for a substance that potentially activates keratin and counteracts hair aging, HGF and/or KGF should be induced. TGF-02 and IGFBP-3 inhibit growth and are characteristic markers for the catagen phase, in which the keratin synthesis is switched off in the follicle. These markers should be repressed by a substance that promotes the keratin synthesis.

H 07320 PCT [0005] Hair keratins represent the most important structure-providing fraction of the hair. The importance of the hair keratins for healthy hair fibers is shown by the fact that genetic mutations in the hair keratins hHb6 and hHbl lead to major modifications such as, for example deformation and hair breakage of the hair fibers (Monilethrichie). Moreover, mice with a point mutation of the Ha3 gene show a naked phenotype without fur (nude mice). [0006] Beside their actual physiological tasks, such as heat insulation and protection from light, hair has a psychosocial function that should not be underestimated. Among other things it serves as a means of interpersonal communication and represents a sign of personal individuality. Changes, also due to age, in hair growth can lead to a massive loss of self-confidence of the person in question. [0007] At present there are hardly any cosmetic preparations that support the synthesis of hair-specific keratins in a biological and therefore sustainable manner. [0008] Accordingly, the aim of the present invention was to find suitable active substances for the manufacture of cosmetic preparations that are topically applied on the scalp and thereby activate the synthesis of keratin there and thereby hair growth. [0009] This aim was achieved to a great degree by providing an agent, in particular for treating hair, which comprises a) at least one bioquinone and b) at least one specific 2-furanone derivative. [00101 Up to now, bioquinones are principally used as antioxidants in skin cosmetics. Moreover, there is a series of applications that claim the addition of ubiquinone in hair treatment products. Thus, the application WO 2000 401095 describes the use of a formulation that can comprise inter alia ubiquinone as an antioxidant in order to improve the surface condition of hair. 2 H 07320 PCT [0011]The application EP-A-1 059 081 claims the use of ubiquinone to reduce oxidative damage to hair. The applications EP-A-1 059 077 and EP-A-1 059 080 indeed use ubiquinone to improve the hair structure, but this relates to a purely physical surface effect that concerns an improvement in combability. [0012] However, none of these applications claims the stimulation of the keratin synthesis, by which the internal structure of hair is improved. [0013] The application W02004089326 claims the use of a combination of active substances of creatinine, creatine as well as bioquinones. This formulation is especially intended for use with inflamed skin conditions and/or to protect the skin. This application, however, does not suggest the effect of ubiquinone on the keratin synthesis. [0014] Agents that comprise pantolactone are described in the applications EP 508 324 Al, EP 273 202 Al, EP 599 819 Al and EP 413 528 Al. In particular, effects are promised in regard to anti-aging, wrinkles, UV radiation, rough and dry skin, sclerotica, thinning of skin and hair, gloss of skin and hair, split ends of hair and nails and elasticity. However, none of these applications claims the stimulation of the keratin synthesis, by which the internal structure of hair is improved. [0015] Accordingly, a first subject matter of the invention is an agent, in particular for hair treatment, comprising a) at least one bioquinone and b) at least one 2-furanone derivative of Formula (1) and/or of Formula (11) RI R 2

R

3 R4 R7 R8 Formula (1) Formula (II) in which the groups R 1 to R 1 0 , independently of one another, stand for: 3 H 07320 PCT - hydrogen, -OH, a methyl, methoxy, aminomethyl or hydroxymethyl group - -C2 - C4 saturated or singly or doubly-unsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon groups, - -C2 - C4 saturated or singly or doubly-unsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbon groups, - -C2 - C4 saturated or singly or doubly-unsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or triamino hydrocarbon groups, - an -OR" group, with -R 11 as a -C2 - C4- saturated or singly or doubly unsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon group, - -C2 - C4 saturated or singly or doubly-unsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbon groups, - an -NR 12

R

13 group, wherein R 12 and R 13 each independently of one another stand for hydrogen, a methyl, a -C2 - C4 saturated or singly or doubly- unsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon group, a -C2 - C4 saturated or singly or doubly- unsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di or trihydroxyhydrocarbon group, - a -COOR 14 group, wherein R 14 stands for hydrogen, a methyl, a -C2 - C4 saturated or singly or doubly- unsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon group, a -C2 - C4 saturated or singly or doubly unsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbon group, a C2 - C4 saturated or singly or doubly-unsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or triamino hydrocarbon group, - a -CONR R group, wherein R 15 and R 16 each stand for hydrogen, methyl, a -C2 - C4 saturated or singly or doubly- unsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon group, a -C2 - C4 saturated or singly or doubly unsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbon group, a C2 - C4 saturated or singly or doubly-unsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or triamino hydrocarbon group, - a -COR" group, wherein R 1 6 stands for hydrogen, a methyl, a -C2 - C4 saturated or singly or doubly- unsaturated, branched or linear 4 H 07320 PCT hydrocarbon group, a -C2 - C4 saturated or singly or doubly unsaturated, branched or linear mono- di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbon group, a C2 - C4 saturated or singly or doubly-unsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or triamino hydrocarbon group, - an -OCOR1 7 group, wherein R 1 7 stands for a methyl, a -C2 - C30 saturated or singly or doubly- unsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon group, a C2 - C30 saturated or singly or doubly unsaturated, branched or linear mono- di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbon group, a C2 - C30 saturated or mono or multiply unsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di-, tri- or polyamino hydrocarbon group, a) with the proviso that for the case where R 7 and R 8 stand for -OH and at the same time R 9 or R 1 0 stands for hydrogen, then the remaining group R 9 or R 1 0 does not stand for a dihydroxyethyl group. [0016] It was found that the treatment of hair with these agents led to a stimulation of the keratin synthesis of the relevant hair keratins. In particular, the treatment of hair with these agents led to the stimulation of the hair keratins that diminish with age. Moreover, the synthesis of certain cytokeratins (e.g. CK1), which also diminish with age, was stimulated The hair growth was supported by the stimulation of growth factors such as HGF and/or KGF and the repression of catagen associated markers such as e.g. IGFBP3 or TGFS2. In addition, the hair treatment with these agents led to an activation of the cellular metabolism. [0017] A further advantage of the invention is that the agents contribute to a strengthening of the internal structure of the hair. [0018] 2-Furanones are known compounds and are described for example in "R6mpps Lexikon der Chemie, Interactive CD-Rom Version 2.0, under the entry "Dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2(3H)-furanon". The compounds of Formulas (I) and (II) are employed as intermediates in the synthesis of natural products and in the manufacture of pharmaceuticals and vitamins. The active substances according to the Formulas (1) and (II) can be manufactured for 5 H 07320 PCT example by treating primary alcohols with acrylic acids. In addition, compounds of Formula (1) can be obtained by reactions starting from hydroxypivaldehyde. Likewise, alkynes can be carbonylated to form substituted 2-furanones of Formula (1) or (11). Finally, the compounds of Formula (1) or of Formula (II) can be obtained by intramolecular esterification of the corresponding hydroxycarboxylic acids. For example, the following compounds are obtained by one of the listed synthetic routes: 2,5-dihydro-5-methoxy-2-furanone, tetrahydro-5-oxo-2-furan carboxylic acid, dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2(3H) furanone, or 3,4-dimethyl-5-pentylidenedihydro-2(5H)-furanone or 4-hydroxy 2,5-dimethyl-3(2H)-furanone. Naturally, the 2-furanones according to the invention include all possible stereoisomers as well as their mixtures. The 2 furanones according to the invention do not sustainably influence the odor of the cosmetic agent, such that the agent has to be separately perfumed. [0019] Preferred compounds of Formula (1) and/or of Formula (11) can be compounds, in which the substituents R 1 , R 2 and R 7 independently of one another stand for: - hydrogen, an -OH, a methyl, methoxy, aminomethyl, hydroxymethyl group, - a -C2 - C4 saturated or singly or doubly-unsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbon group, - a -C2 - C4 saturated or singly or doubly-unsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or triamino hydrocarbon group, - an -OR" group, with -R 11 as a -C2 - C4 saturated or singly or doubly unsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon group, -C2 - C4 saturated or singly or doubly-unsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbon group, - an -NR 12

R

13 group, wherein R 12 and R 13 each independently of one another stand for hydrogen, a methyl, a -C2 - C4 saturated or singly or doubly- unsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon group, a -C2 - C4 saturated or singly or doubly- unsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di or trihydroxyhydrocarbon group, 6 H 07320 PCT - a -COOR 1 4 group, wherein R 14 stands for hydrogen, a methyl, a -C2 - C4 saturated or singly or doubly- unsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon group, a -C2 - C4 saturated or singly or doubly unsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbon group, a C2 - C4 saturated or singly or doubly-unsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or triamino hydrocarbon group, - a -COR'6 group, wherein R 16 stands for hydrogen, a methyl, a -C2 - C4 saturated or singly or doubly- unsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon group, a -C2 - C4 saturated or singly or doubly unsaturated, branched or linear mono- di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbon group, a C2 - C4 saturated or singly or doubly-unsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or triamino hydrocarbon group, - an -OCOR 17 group, wherein R' 7 stands for a methyl, a -C2 - C30 saturated or singly or doubly- unsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon group, a -C2 - C30 saturated or mono- or multiply unsaturated, branched or linear mono- di- tri- or polyhydroxyalkyl group, a -C2 - C3o saturated or mono or multiply unsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di-, tri- or polyamino hydrocarbon group. [0020] In a further embodiment of the inventive teaching, the groups R 3 , R 4 and R , independently of one another in the compounds of Formula (I) or of Formula (11) preferably stand for: - hydrogen, an -OH, a methyl, methoxy, aminomethyl, hydroxymethyl group, - a -C2 - C4 saturated or singly or doubly-unsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon group, - a -C2 - C4 saturated or singly or doubly-unsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbon group or - a -C2 - C4 saturated or singly or doubly-unsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or triamino hydrocarbon group. 7 H 07320 PCT [0021] In addition, in the inventive active substance according to Formula (I) and/or Formula (II), it can be preferred if the groups R', R 6 , R' and R", independently of one another, stand for: - hydrogen, an -OH, a methyl, methoxy, aminomethyl, hydroxymethyl group, - a -C2 - C4 saturated or singly or doubly-unsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon group, - a -C2 - C4 saturated or singly or doubly-unsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbon group or - a -C2 - C 4 saturated or singly or doubly-unsaturated, branched or linear ' mono-, di- or triamino hydrocarbon group. [0022] In a particularly preferred embodiment of the inventive teaching, a compound of Formula (1) is employed. Then it can be preferred that in a compound of Formula (1), the groups R 1 and R 2 , independently of one another, stand for: - hydrogen, an -OH, a methyl, methoxy, aminomethyl, hydroxymethyl group, - a -C2 - C4 saturated or singly or doubly-unsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbon group, - an -OR" group, with -R 11 as a -C2 - C4 saturated or singly or doubly unsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon group, -C2 - C4 saturated or singly or doubly-unsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbon group, - a -COOR1 4 group, wherein R 14 stands for hydrogen, a methyl, a -C2 - C4 saturated or singly or doubly- unsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon group, a -C2 - C4 saturated or singly or doubly unsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbon group, - a -COR'6 group, wherein R stands for a methyl, a -C2 - C4 saturated or singly or doubly- unsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon group, a 8 H 07320 PCT C2 - C4 saturated or singly or doubly- unsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbon group, - a -OCOR 17 group, wherein R 1 7 stands for a methyl, a -C2 - C30 saturated or mono- or multiply unsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon group, a C2 - C30 saturated or mono- or multiply unsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- tri- or polyhydroxyhydrocarbon group. [0024] In addition, in this particularly preferred embodiment of the inventive teaching, it can be advantageous that in the compounds of Formula (1), the groups R 3 and R 4 , independently of one another, stand for: - hydrogen, an -OH, a methyl, methoxy, aminomethyl, hydroxymethyl group, - a -C2 - C4 saturated or singly or doubly-unsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbon group, - an -OR" group, with -R 11 as a -C2 - C4 saturated or singly or doubly unsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon group, -C2 - C4 saturated or singly or doubly-unsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbon group, - a -COOR group, wherein R 1 4 stands for hydrogen, a methyl, a -C2 - C4 saturated or singly or doubly- unsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon group, a -C2 - C 4 saturated or singly or doubly- unsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbon group, - a OCOR 17 group, wherein R 17 stands for a methyl, a -C2 - C30 saturated or mono- or multiply unsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon group, a -C2 - C30 saturated or mono- or multiply unsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- tri- or polyhydroxyhydrocarbon group. [0025] In this preferred embodiment, it can be further advantageous that in the compounds of Formula (I), the groups R 5 and R , independently of one another, stand for: - hydrogen, an -OH, a methyl, methoxy, aminomethyl, hydroxymethyl group, 9 H 07320 PCT - a -C 2 - C 4 saturated or singly or doubly-unsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbon group, - an -OR" group, with -R' 1 as a -C 2 - C 4 saturated or singly or doubly unsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon group, -C 2 - C 4 saturated or singly or doubly-unsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbon group. [0026] In a particularly preferred embodiment of the inventive teaching, dihydro 3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2(3H)-furanone is employed as the compound corresponding to Formula (I). [0027] The active substance according to the invention corresponding to Formula (1) or (11) is added to the hair treatment agents in amounts of from 0.001% by weight to 10% by weight, based on the total agent, preferably in amounts of from 0.01% by weight to 5% by weight and quite particularly preferably in amounts of from 0.05% by weight to 3% by weight. [0028] Suitable bioquinones in the inventive agents are understood to include one or more ubiquinones and/or plastoquinones. [0029] Ubiquinones represent the most widely disseminated and hence the most investigated bioquinones. Ubiquinones are named according to the number of linked isoprene units in the side chain as Q-1, Q-2, Q-3 etc. or according to the number of carbon atoms as U-5, U-10, U-15 etc. They preferably occur with specific chain lengths, e.g. in some microorganisms and yeast with n=6. Q-10 predominates in the majority of mammals, including humans. Ubiquinones act in organisms as electron transfer agents in the respiratory chain. They are found in the mitochondria, where they enable the cyclic oxidation and reduction of the substrates of the citric acid cycle. [0030] The preferred ubiquinones according to the invention have the following Formula: 10 H 07320 PCT 0 CH3 I CH 3 I I

CH

3 0 H o

CH

3 n1 with n = 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10. [0031] According to the invention, the ubiquinone of the formula with n = 10, also known as the coenzyme Q10, is particularly preferred. [0032] Plastoquinones have the following general structural Formula. 0 CH 3 CH 3 1 1 CH H o

CH

3 l They can be isolated from chloroplasts and play a role as redox substrates in the photosynthesis in cyclic and acyclic electron transport, wherein they reversibly convert to the corresponding hydroquinones (plastoquinol). Plastoquinones differ in the number n of the isoprene groups and are named accordingly, e.g. PQ-9 (n=9). Furthermore, other plastoquinones exist with different substituents on the quinone ring. [0033] The bioquinone(s) is/are added to the inventive agents - based on their weight - in quantities of 0.0000005 to 2%, preferably in a quantity of 0.000001 to 1 % and particularly in a quantity of 0.00001 to 0.5%. [0034] According to the invention, the 2-furanone derivative of Formula (1) or (II) and the bioquinone(s) are added in a ratio of 2: 1 to 1000: 1, preferably in a ratio of 5: 1 to 500: 1 and particularly in a ratio of 10: 1 and 100: 1. 11 H 07320 PCT [0035] According to another preferred embodiment of the invention, the agents additionally comprise at least one emulsifier and/or at least one dialkyl ether and/or a mixture of these substances. The availability of the active substance in the hair root is positively influenced by the addition of one or more of these substances. [0036] The emulsifiers according to the invention are understood to include for example the following compounds: - Addition products of 4 to 30 moles ethylene oxide and/or 0 to 5 moles propylene oxide to linear fatty alcohols containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms, to fatty acids containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms and to alkyl phenols containing 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, - C- 12

-C

22 fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 moles ethylene oxide on polyols containing 3 to 6 carbon atoms, especially glycerol, - ethylene oxide and polyglycerol addition products on methyl glucoside fatty acid esters, fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty acid glucamides, - C 8

-C

22 alkyl mono and oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogs, wherein the degrees of oligomerization are 1.1 to 5, particularly 1.2 to 2.0, and glucose is preferred as the sugar component, - mixtures of alkyl (oligo) glucosides and fatty alcohols, for example the commercial product Montanov*68, - addition products of 5 to 60 moles ethylene oxide on castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil, - partial esters of polyols containing 3-6 carbon atoms with saturated fatty acids containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms, - sterols. Sterols are understood to mean a group of steroids, which carry a hydroxyl group on carbon atom 3 of the steroid skeleton and are isolated from both animal tissue (zoosterols) and vegetal fats (phytosterols). Examples of zoosterols are cholesterol and lanosterol. Examples of suitable phytosterols are ergosterol, stigmasterol and 12 H 07320 PCT sitosterol. Sterols, the so-called mycosterols, are also isolated from fungi and yeasts. - phospholipids. These are principally understood to mean the glucose phospholipids, which are obtained e.g. as lecithins or phosphatidyl cholines from e.g. egg yolk or plant seeds (e.g. soya beans). - fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols such as sorbitol, - polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives such as for example polyglycerol poly-1 2-hydroxystearate (commercial product Dehymuls* PGPH), - linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms and their Na, K, ammonium, Ca, Mg and Zn salts. (0037] According to the invention, particularly preferred emulsifiers are polyethylene glycol alkyl ethers with alkyl chain lengths of 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms and a degree of ethoxylation of 1 to 1000, preferably 1 to 500 and especially I to 100. [0038] Particularly preferred polyethylene glycol ethers in the context of the invention are the known substances with the INCI names Ceteareth-6, Ceteareth-9, Ceteareth-1 0, Ceteareth-20, Ceteareth-30, Ceteareth-25, Steareth-10 and Steareth-20. [0039] Further particularly preferred emulsifiers in the context of the invention are C, 2

-C

22 fatty acid mono and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 moles ethylene oxide on polyols containing 3 to 6 carbon atoms, particularly on glycerol. PEG-20 Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, PEG-30 Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides, Polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate and Glycereth-2-Cocoate are particularly preferred. [0040] The inventive agents preferably comprise the emulsifiers in quantities of 0.01 to 25 wt.%, preferably in quantities of 0.05 to 20 wt.% and particularly in quantities of 0.1 - 10 wt.%, based on the total agent. 13 H 07320 PCT [0041] According to the invention, suitable dialkyl ethers are di-n-alkyl ethers containing a total of 5 to 50 carbon atoms, preferably with 8 to 40 and especially with 12 to 24 carbon atoms such as, for example, di-n-octyl ether (Cetiol@ OE), di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether, di-n-undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n-decyl n-undecyl ether, n undecyl n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl n-undecyl ether and di-tert.butyl ether, diisopentyl ether, di-3-ethyldecyl ether, tert.butyl n-octyl ether, isopentyl n-octyl ether, 2-methylpentyl n-octyl ether and 1,3-di-(2-ethylhexyl)-cyclohexane (Cetiol* S). According to the invention, dicaprylyl ether is particularly preferred. [0042] The inventive agents preferably comprise the dialkyl ethers in quantities of 0.01 to 50 wt.%, preferably in quantities of 0.05 to 20 wt.% and particularly in quantities of 0.1 - 15 wt.%, based on the total agent. [0043] In regard to the manner in which the combination of active substances according to the invention is applied onto the keratin fibers, especially onto human hair, as well as onto the skin, in principle there are no limitations. Creams, lotions, solutions, waters, emulsions such as W/O, O/W, PIT emulsions (phase inversion emulsions, called PIT), micro emulsions and multiple emulsions, coarse, unstable, single or multiphase shakeable mixtures, gels, sprays, aerosols and foam aerosols are examples of the presentation of these preparations. They are generally formulated on an aqueous or aqueous alcoholic basis. Lower alkanols as well as polyols such as propylene glycol and glycerol can be used as the alcoholic component. Ethanol and isopropanol are preferred alcohols. Water and alcohol can be present in the aqueous alcoholic base in a weight ratio of 1: 10 to 10: 1. Water as well as aqueous alcoholic mixtures, which comprise up to 50 wt.%, particularly up to 25 wt.% alcohol, based on the alcohol/water mixture, can be inventively preferred bases. In principle, the pH of these preparations can be from 2 - 11. The pH is preferably between 2 and 7, values from 3 to 5 being particularly preferred. This pH can be adjusted by the use of practically any acid or base that can be used for cosmetic purposes. Food acids are usually used as the acids. Food acids are understood to mean those acids that are ingested in the scope of the usual 14 H 07320 PCT food intake and have positive effects on the human organism. Exemplary food acids are acetic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, malic acid, ascorbic acid and gluconic acid. In the context of the invention, the use of citric acid and lactic acid is particularly preferred. Preferred bases are ammonia, alkali metal hydroxides, monoethanolamine, triethanolamine as well as N,N,N',N'-tetrakis (2-hydroxypropyl)-ethylenediamine. [0044] Preparations remaining on the skin and the hair have proved to be particularly effective and accordingly can represent preferred embodiments of the inventive teaching. According to the invention, the term "remaining on the skin and the hair" means those preparations that in the context of the treatment are not washed out again from the skin or from the hair for a period of a few seconds to an hour with the help of water or with an aqueous solution. In fact, the preparations remain on the skin or on the hair up to the next wash. [0045] According to a particularly preferred embodiment for application on the hair, the agents according to the invention are formulated as hair cures, hair tonics, conditioners, hair rinses, setting lotions, hair sprays or hair gels. The inventive preparations according to this embodiment can be rinsed out with water or with an at least predominantly water-containing agent at the end of this contact time; preferably, however, they are left on the hair, as described above. In this case it can be preferred to apply the preparation according to the invention onto the hair before using a cleaning agent, a permanent wave or other hair treatment agents. In this case the preparation according to the invention serves as a color protection for the subsequent application. [0046] However, a further preferred application form of the agent according to the invention is also a shampoo. [0047] In a particular embodiment of the inventive agents, it can be preferred that the agents are present as a micro emulsion. In the context of the invention, micro emulsions are also understood to include "PIT" emulsions. In principle, these emulsions are a system with the three components water, oil and emulsifier, which are present at room temperature as oil-in-water (ON) emulsions. On heating, these systems form micro emulsions in a specific 15 H 07320 PCT temperature range (known as the phase inversion temperature or "PIT") and on further heating are converted into water-in-oil (W/O) emulsions. Subsequent cooling again affords O/W emulsions that also exist, however, at room temperature as micro emulsions with a mean particle diameter below 400 nm and particularly between about 100 - 300 nm. Details regarding these very stable, low viscosity systems, for which the name "PIT-emulsions" has been generally accepted, are to be found in numerous publications, for example the publications in Angew. Chem. 97, 655-669 (1985) and Adv. Colloid Interface Series 58, 119-149 (1995). [0048] According to the invention, such micro or "PIT" emulsions that have a mean particle diameter of about 200 nm are preferred. [0049] The micro emulsion according to the invention can be manufactured in such a way, for example, that firstly the phase inversion temperature of the system is determined by heating a sample of the emulsion prepared in a normal manner, and the temperature at which the conductivity strongly decreases is determined by means of a conductivity measuring instrument. The decrease in the specific conductivity of the initially present O/W emulsion generally decreases from originally more than 1 mS/cm to values of below 0.1 mS/cm over a temperature range of 2 to 8 *C. This temperature range then corresponds to the temperature range of the phase inversion. Once the phase inversion temperature range has been determined in this way, the emulsion initially prepared as usual from oil components, non-ionic emulsifier, at least part of the water as well as optional further components, can be heated to a temperature that is within or above the phase inversion temperature range, then cooled down and optional further components as well as the remaining water can be added. Alternatively, the micro emulsion can also be manufactured directly at a temperature within or above the phase inversion temperature range. The thus-manufactured micro emulsion is then cooled down to a temperature below the phase inversion temperature range, usually room temperature. 16 H 07320 PCT [0050] In a preferred embodiment of the inventive teaching, the effect can be further enhanced with polymers. Polymers are understood to mean both natural as well as synthetic polymers that can be anionic, cationic, amphoterically charged or non-ionic. [0051] Cationic polymers are understood to mean polymers that, in their main chain and/or side chain, possess groups that can be "temporarily" or "permanently" cationic. "Permanently cationic" refers, according to the invention, to those polymers, which independently of the pH of the medium, have a cationic group. These are generally polymers, which comprise a quaternary nitrogen atom in the form of an ammonium group, for example. Preferred cationic groups are quaternary ammonium groups. In particular, those polymers in which the quaternary ammonium groups are bonded through a C 1 4 hydrocarbon group to a polymer backbone of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or their derivatives, have proved to be particularly suitable. [0052] Homopolymers of the general Formula (PI),

R

1 i -(CHrC-], X (PI) CO-O-(CHz),n-N*RR 2 "R in which R 1 8 = -H or -CH 3 , R 19 , R 20 and R 21 independently of each other are selected from C 1 4 alkyl, -alkenyl or -hydroxyalkyl groups, m = 1, 2, 3 or 4, n = a natural number and X- is a physiologically compatible organic or inorganic anion, as well as copolymers, essentially consisting of the monomer units listed in Formula (Ill) as well as non-ionic monomer units, are particularly preferred cationic polymers. Regarding these polymers, those that are preferred in accordance with the invention meet at least one of the following conditions: - R 18 stands for a methyl group - R 19 , R 20 and R 21 stand for methyl groups - m has the value 2. 17 H 07320 PCT [0053] Exemplary physiologically compatible counter ions X- include halide ions, sulfate ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ions as well as organic ions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetate ions. Halide ions are preferred, particularly chloride. [0054] A particularly suitable homopolymer is the optionally crosslinked poly(methacryloyloxyethyl trimethyl ammonium chloride) with the INCI name Polyquaternium-37. Crosslinking can be effected, when desired, with the help of olefinically multiply unsaturated compounds, for example divinylbenzene, tetraallyloxyethane, methylene bisacrylamide, diallyl ether, polyallyl polyglyceryl ether, or allyl ethers of sugars or sugar derivatives such as erythritol, pentaerythritol, arabitol, mannitol, sorbitol, sucrose or glucose. Methylene bisacrylamide is a preferred crosslinking agent. [0055] The homopolymer is preferably employed in the form of a non-aqueous polymer dispersion that should have a polymer content of not less than 30 wt.%. Such polymer dispersions are commercially available under the names Salcare* SC 95 (ca. 50 % polymer content, additional components: mineral oil (INCI name: Mineral Oil) and tridecyl-polyoxypropylene polyoxyethylene ether (INCI name: PPG-1-Trideceth-6)) and Salcare@ SC 96 (ca. 50 % polymer content, additional components: mixture of diesters of propylene glycol with a mixture of caprylic- and capric acid (INCI name: Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate) and tridecyl-polyoxypropylene polyoxyethylene ether (INCI name: PPG-1-Trideceth-6)). [0056] Copolymers with monomer units according to formula (PI) preferably comprise acrylamide, methacrylamide, C 1 alkyl esters of acrylic acid and C 1 4 alkyl esters of methacrylic acid as the non-ionic monomer units. Acrylamide is particularly preferred among these non-ionic monomers. These copolymers can also be crosslinked, as in the case of the above described homopolymers. An inventively preferred copolymer is the crosslinked acrylamide/methacryloyloxyethyl trimethyl ammonium chloride copolymer. Such copolymers, in which the monomers are present in a weight ratio of about 20: 18 H 07320 PCT 80, are commercially available as a ca. 50 % conc. non-aqueous polymer dispersion named Salcare* SC 92. [0057] Further preferred cationic polymers are, for example - quaternized cellulose derivatives, commercially available under the trade names Celquat* and Polymer JR*. The compounds Celquat* H 100, Celquat* L 200 and Polymer JR*400 are preferred quaternized cellulose derivatives, - cationic alkyl polyglycosides according to DE-PS 44 13 686, - cationic honey, for example the commercial product Honeyquat* 50, - cationic guar derivatives, such as in particular the products marketed under the trade names Cosmedia* Guar and Jaguar*, - Polysiloxanes with quaternary groups, such as, for example, the commercially available products Q2-7224 (manufacturer: Dow Corning; a stabilized trimethylsilylamodimethicone), Dow Corning* 929 emulsion (comprising a hydroxylamino-modified silicone, also referred to as amodimethicone), SM-2059 (manufacturer: General Electric), SLM 55067 (manufacturer: Wacker), and Abil*-Quat 3270 and 3272 (manufacturer: Th. Goldschmidt; diquaternary polydimethylsiloxanes, Quaternium-80), - polymeric dimethyl diallyl ammonium salts and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid.- The commercially available products Merquat (Merquat*100 (poly(dimethyl diallyl ammonium chloride)) and Merquat @550 (dimethyl diallyl ammonium chloride-acrylamide copolymer) are examples of such cationic polymers, - copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate, such as, for example vinyl pyrrolidone-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymers quaternized with diethyl sulfate. Such compounds are commercially available under the trade names Gafquat* 734 and Gafquat@ 755, 19 H 07320 PCT - vinyl pyrrolidone-vinyl imidazolium methochloride copolymers, as are offered under the trade names Luviquat* FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 and HM 552, - quaternized polyvinyl alcohol, and also the polymers known under the designations _______________lnks --- Formatiert: Einzug: Unks: - Pol"'uaternium 2, 0,66 cm, Hangend: 0,66 cm, Aufgezahlt + Ebene: 1 + Ausgenchtet an: 1,34 cm + - Polyquaternium 17, Tabstopp nach: 2,04 cm + Einzug bei: 2,04 cm, Tabstopps: 1,32 cm, - Polyquaternium 18 and Ustentabstopp + Nicht an 2,04 cm + 2,67 cm - Polyquaternium 27 having quaternary nitrogen atoms in the polymer main chain. [0058] Polymers designated as Polyquaternium-24 (commercial product e.g. Quatrisoft* LM 200) can also be employed as cationic polymers. The copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone are also usable according to the invention, such as the commercially available products Copolymer 845 (manufacturer: ISP), Gaffix* VC 713 (manufacturer: ISP), Gafquat* ASCP 1011, Gafquat*HS 110, Luviquat@ 8155 and Luviquat* MS 370. [0059] Further inventive cationic polymers are the "temporarily cationic" polymers. These polymers usually comprise an amino group that is present at specific pH values as the quaternary ammonium group and is thus cationic. Chitosan and its derivatives, such as for example the commercially available Hydagen* CMF, Hydagen* HCMF, Kytamer* PC and Chitolam* NB/101 are preferred. Chitosans are deacetylated chitins that are commercially available with various degrees of deacetylation and various degrees of degradation (molecular weights). [0060] Particularly well-suited chitosans have a deacetylation degree of at least 80 % and a molecular weight of 5 x 105 to 5 x 106 (g/mol). [0061] The chitosan has to be converted into the salt form for the manufacture of the inventive preparations. This can be effected by dissolution in dilute aqueous acids. Both mineral acids, such as e.g. hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid 20 H 07320 PCT and phosphoric acid and also organic acids, such as e.g. low molecular weight carboxylic acids, polycarboxylic acids and hydroxycarboxylic acids, are suitable acids. Moreover, higher molecular weight alkyl sulfonic acids or alkyl sulfuric acids or organophosphoric acids can also be used, when they possess the required physiological compatibility. Suitable acids for converting chitosan into the salt form are e.g. acetic acid, glycolic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, 2-pyrollidinone-5-carboxylic acid, benzoic acid or salicylic acid. Low molecular weight hydroxycarboxylic acids are preferably used, such as e.g. glycolic acid or lactic acid. [0062] The anionic polymers, which can reinforce the action of the inventive active substance, correspond to an anionic polymer, which has carboxylate and/or sulfonate groups. Exemplary anionic monomers, from which such polymers can be made, are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid. Here, the acidic groups may be fully or partially present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanol ammonium salts. Preferred monomers are 2-acrylamido-2 methylpropane sulfonic acid and acrylic acid. [0063] Anionic polymers that comprise 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid alone or as the comonomer, have proven to be quite particularly effective; the sulfonic acid group may be fully or partially present as the sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanol ammonium salt. [0064] The homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, which is commercially available, for example under the trade name Rheothik* 11-80, is particularly preferred. [0065] In this embodiment, it can be preferred to use copolymers of at least one anionic monomer and at least one non-ionic monomer. Regarding the anionic monomers, reference is made to the abovementioned substances. Preferred non-ionic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic acid esters, methacrylic acid esters, vinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl ethers and vinyl esters. 21 H 07320 PCT [0066] Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and particularly polyacrylamide copolymers with monomers that contain sulfonic acid groups. A particularly preferred anionic copolymer consists of 70 to 55 mole% acrylamide and 30 to 45 mole% 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, wherein the sulfonic acid group may be fully or partially present as the sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanol ammonium salt. This copolymer can also be crosslinked, wherein the preferred crosslinking agents include polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, allyl sucrose, allyl pentaerythritol and methylene bisacrylamide. Such a polymer is comprised in the commercial product Sepigel*305 from the SEPPIC company. The use of this compound, which comprises a mixture of hydrocarbons (C 13

-C

14 isoparaffins) and a non-ionic emulsifier (Laureth-7) besides the polymer components, has proved to be particularly advantageous in the context of the inventive teaching. [0067] The sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymers commercialized as a compound with isohexadecane and polysorbate 80, under the trade name Simulgel*600, have also proved to be particularly effective according to the invention. [0068] Likewise preferred anionic homopolymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids. Here the preferred crosslinking agents can be allyl ethers of pentaerythritol, of sucrose and of propylene. Such compounds are commercially available under the trade name Carbopol*, for example. [0069] Copolymers of maleic anhydride and methyl vinyl ether, especially those with crosslinks are also color-conserving polymers. A maleic acid-methyl vinyl ether copolymer, crosslinked with 1,9-decadiene, is commercially available under the name Stabileze* QM. [0070] In addition, amphoteric polymers can be added as constituent polymers to increase the action of the inventive active substance. The term amphopolymers embraces not only those polymers, whose molecule includes both free amino groups and free -COOH or SO 3 H groups and which are capable of forming inner salts, but also zwitterionic polymers whose molecule 22 H 07320 PCT comprises quaternary ammonium groups and -COO- or -S0 3 ~ groups, and polymers comprising -COOH or SO 3 H groups and quaternary ammonium groups. [0071] An example of an amphopolymer which may be used in accordance with the invention is the acrylic resin obtainable under the designation Amphomere, which constitutes a copolymer of tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate, N-(1,1,3,3 tetramethylbutyl) acrylamide, and two or more monomers from the group consisting of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and their simple esters. [0072] Preferably employed amphoteric polymers are such polymers that are essentially composed from (a) Monomers with quaternary ammonium groups of the general Formula (Pll), R 22CH=CR23-CO-Z-(CnH2n)-N(R24R25R26 A" (Pll) in which R 22 and R 23 independently of each other stand for hydrogen or a methyl group and R 24 , R 2 ' and R 2 1 independently of one another for alkyl groups with 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Z for an NH group or an oxygen atom, n for a whole number from 2 to 5 and A" is the anion of an organic or inorganic acid and (b) monomers of carboxylic acids of the general Formula (Pill),

R

27

-CH=CR

2 1-COOH (Pill) in which R 27 and R 2 8 , independently of one another are hydrogen or methyl groups. 23 H 07320 PCT [0073] According to the invention, these compounds can be both added directly as well as in salt form, which is obtained by neutralization of the polymer with an alkali hydroxide, for example. With regard to the details of the preparation of these polymers, reference is specifically made to the contents of German Offenlegungsschrift 39 29 973. Quite particularly preferred are such polymers, which incorporate monomers of type (a), in which R 2 4 , R 25 and R 2 6 are methyl groups, Z is an NH group and A" is a halide, methoxysulfate or ethoxysulfate ion; acrylamidopropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride is a particularly preferred monomer (a). Acrylic acid is preferably used as the monomer (b) in the cited polymers. [0074] In a third variant, the inventive agents can additionally comprise non ionic polymers. [0075] Suitable non-ionic polymers are, for example: - vinyl pyrrolidone-vinyl ester copolymers, such as, for example, those marketed by BASF under the trade name Luviskol*, Luviskole VA 64 and Luviskol@ VA 73, each vinyl pyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymers, are likewise preferred non-ionic polymers. - cellulose ethers, such as hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, and methyl hydroxypropyl cellulose, as marketed for example under the trademarks Culminal* and Benecel* (AQUALON). - shellac - polyvinyl pyrrolidones, as are marketed, for example, under the designation Luviskol* (BASF). - siloxanes. These siloxanes can be both water-soluble and also water insoluble. Both volatile and non-volatile siloxanes are suitable, whereby non-volatile siloxanes are understood to mean such compounds with a boiling point above 200 *C at normal pressure. Preferred siloxanes are polydialkylsiloxanes, such as, for example polydimethylsiloxane, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, such as, for example polyphenylmethylsiloxane, ethoxylated polydialkylsiloxanes as well as polydialkylsiloxanes, which comprise amine and/or hydroxyl groups. 24 H 07320 PCT - glycosidically substituted silicones according to EP 0612759 B1. [0076] According to the invention, it is also possible for the used preparations to comprise a plurality, particularly two different polymers of the same charge and/or each with an anionic and an amphoteric and/or non-ionic polymer. [0077] According to the invention, the term polymer is also understood to mean specific preparations of polymers such as spherical polymer powder. Various processes are known for the manufacture of such micro spheres from various monomers, e.g. by specific polymerization processes or by dissolving the polymer in a solvent and spraying into a medium, in which the solvent evaporates or which can diffuse out of the particles. A process of this type is known from e.g. EP 466 986 B1. Suitable polymers are e.g. polycarbonates, polyurethanes, polyacrylates, polyolefins, polyesters or polyamides. Such spherical polymer powders having a primary particle diameter of less than 1 pm are particularly preferred. Such products based on a polymethacrylate copolymer are commercially available e.g. under the trade name Polytrap@ Q5 6603 (Dow Corning). Other polymer powders, e.g. based on polyamides (Nylon 6, Nylon 12) can be obtained with a particle size of 2 - 10 pm (90 %) and a specific surface area of ca. 1 0m 2 /g under the trade name Orgasol@ 2002 DU Nat Cos (Atochem S.A., Paris). Further suitable spherical polymer powders for the inventive purpose are e.g. the polymethacrylates (Micropearl M) from SEPPIC or (Plastic Powder A) from NIKKOL, the styrene-divinylbenzene copolymers (Plastic Powder FP) from NIKKOL, the polyethylene and polypropylene powders (ACCUREL EP 400) from AKZO, or also silicone polymers (Silicone Powder X2-1605) from Dow Corning or also spherical cellulose powder. [0078] The agents according to the invention preferably comprise the polymers in quantities of 0.01 to 10 wt.%, based on the total agent. Quantities of 0.05 to 5 wt.%, particularly 0.1 to 3 wt.%, are particularly preferred. [0079] In a further embodiment of the inventive agent, the effect can be additionally enhanced by using protein hydrolyzates and their derivatives. 25 H 07320 PCT Protein hydrolyzates are product mixtures obtained by acid-, base- or enzyme catalyzed degradation of proteins (albumins). [0080] According to the invention, the added protein hydrolyzates can be of both vegetal as well as of animal origin. [0081] Animal protein hydrolyzates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk protein, and milk albumin protein hydrolyzates, which can also be present in the form of their salts. Such products are marketed, for example, under the trade names Dehylan* (Cognis), Promois* (Interorgana), Collapuron* (Cognis), Nutrilan@ (Cognis), Gelita-Sol* (Deutsche Gelatine Fabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein* (Inolex) and Kerasol@ (Croda). [0082] According to the invention, it is preferred to use protein hydrolyzates of vegetal origin, e.g. soya, almond, rice, pea, potato and wheat protein hydrolyzates. Such products are available, for example, under the trade names Gluadin* (Cognis), DiaMin@ (Diamalt), Lexein@ (Inolex) and Crotein@ (Croda). [0083]Although it is preferred to add the protein hydrolyzates as such, optionally other mixtures containing amino acid or individual amino acids can also be added in their place, such as arginine, lysine, histidine or pyroglutamic acid. Likewise, it is possible to add derivatives of protein hydrolyzates, e.g. in the form of their fatty acid condensation products. Such products are marketed, for example, under the trade names Lamepon* (Cognis), Gluadin* (Cognis), Lexein@ (Inolex), Crolastin@ (Croda) or Crotein@ (Croda). [0084] Cationic protein hydrolyzates are also inventively useable, wherein the basic protein hydrolyzate can originate from animals, for example from collagen, milk or keratin, from plants, for example from wheat, maize, rice, potatoes, soya or almonds, from marine life, for example from fish collagen or algae, or from biotechnologically obtained protein hydrolyzates. The inventive cationic derivatives based on protein hydrolyzates can be obtained from the corresponding proteins by a chemical, particularly alkaline or acid hydrolysis, by an enzymatic hydrolysis and/or a combination of both types of hydrolysis. The hydrolysis of proteins generally produces a protein hydrolyzate with a molecular 26 H 07320 PCT weight distribution from about 100 daltons up to several thousand daltons. Cationic protein hydrolyzates are preferred, whose base protein content has a molecular weight of 100 to 25 000 daltons, preferably 250 to 5000 daltons. Moreover, cationic protein hydrolyzates are understood to include quaternized amino acids and their mixtures. Quaternization of the protein hydrolyzates or of the amino acids is often carried out using quaternary ammonium salts such as, for example, N,N-dimethyl-N-(n-alkyl)-N-(2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl) ammonium halides. Moreover, the cationic protein hydrolyzates can also be further derivatized. Typical examples of inventive cationic protein hydrolyzates and derivatives are the commercially available products and those cited under the INCI names in the "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook", (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association 1101 17 n Street, N.W., Suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702): Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hair Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Silk Amino Acids, Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl/Myristyl Ether HCI, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Gelatin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Casein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Conchiolin Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed keratin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Silk, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein/Siloxysilicate, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein/Siloxysilicate, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, 27 H 07320 PCT Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Steartrimonium Hydroxyethyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-76 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Keratin, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Milk Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Silk, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Quatemium-79 Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein. The cationic protein hydrolyzates and derivatives based on plants are quite particularly preferred. [0085] The agents according to the invention comprise the protein hydrolyzates and their derivatives in quantities of 0.01 to 10 wt.%, based on the total agent. Quantities of 0.05 to 5 wt.%, particularly 0.1 to 3 wt.%, are quite particularly preferred. [0086] Accordingly, in a further preferred embodiment, the inventive agents comprise surfactants. The term surfactant is understood to mean surface-active substances that carry an anionic or cationic charge in the molecule. Similarly, both an anionic as well as cationic charge can be present in the molecule. According to the invention, these zwitterionic or amphoteric surface-active substances can likewise be employed. Furthermore, the surface-active substances can also be non-ionic. [0087] Suitable anionic surfactants for the inventive preparations are all anionic surface-active materials that are suitable for use on the human body. They are characterized by a water solubilizing anionic group, such as e.g. a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group containing about 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In addition, the molecule may comprise glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups as well as hydroxyl 28 H 07320 PCT groups. Exemplary suitable anionic surfactants are, each in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium as well as the mono, di and trialkanolammonium salts with 2 to 4 carbon atoms in the alkanol group, - linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms (soaps), - ether carboxylic acids of the formula R-O-(CH 2

-CH

2 0),-CH 2 -COOH, in which R is a linear alkyl group with 8 to 30 carbon atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16, - acyl sarcosides with 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group, - acyl taurides with 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group, - acyl isethionates with 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group, - sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters with 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid mono-alkyl polyoxyethyl esters with 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethylene groups, - linear alkane sulfonates with 8 to 24 carbon atoms, - linear alpha-olefin sulfonates with 8 to 24 carbon atoms, - alpha-sulfo fatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms, - alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of formula R-O(CH 2 CH 2 0).-OSO 3 H, in which R is preferably a linear alkyl group with 8 to 30 carbon atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 12, - mixtures of surface-active hydroxy sulfonates according to DE-A-37 25 030, - sulfated hydroxyalkyl polyethylene- and/or hydroxyalkylene propylene glycol ethers according to DE-A-37 23 354, - sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids containing 8 to 24 carbon atoms and 1 to 6 double bonds according to DE-A-39 26 344, 29 H 07320 PCT - esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols, which represent the addition products of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide on fatty alcohols containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms, - alkyl- and/or alkenyl ether phosphates of Formula (TI) 0 11

R

2 9 (OCH2CH2)n- 0 - P - OR 3 0 (TI) Ox in which R 29 preferably stands for an aliphatic hydrocarbon group containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R 30 stands for hydrogen, a

(CH

2

CH

2 0),R 29 group or X, n for numbers between 1 and 10 and X for hydrogen, an alkali or alkaline earth metal or NR 31 R R 33

R

34 , with R' to

R

34 , independently of each other standing for a C1 to C4 hydrocarbon group, Formatiert: Einzug: Unks: sulfate fatty acid alkylene glycol esters of Formula (TII) 0,7 cm, Aufgez~hlt + Ebene: 1 + Ausgerdchtet an: 1,97 cm + Tabstopp nach: 2,67 cm + CO(Alk0),S0 3 M (TII) Einzug bei: 2,67 cm, Tabstopps: 1,32 cm, Ustentabstopp + Nlcht an 1,4 in which RasCO- stands for a linear or branched, aliphatic, saturated cm + 2,67 cm and/or unsaturated acyl group containing 6 to 22 carbon atoms, Alk for

CH

2

CH

2 , CHCH 3

CH

2 and/or CH 2

CHCH

3 , n for numbers from 0.5 to 5 and M for a cation, such as those described in DE-OS 197 36 906.5 Formla~ - -Formatiert: Einzug: Links: monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates of Formula 0,7 cm, Aufgezht + Ebene: + Ausgerictitet an: 1,97 cm + (Till), Tabstopp nach: 2,67 cm + Tabstopps: 1,32 cm, CH20(CH2CH20)x- COR 36 Ustentabstopp + Nicht an 1,4 CHO(CH2CH2O)yH (Tll)

C-

2 0(CH 2 CH2O)z - S0 3 X 36CO4Formatiert: Einzug: Unks: in which R stands for a linear or branched acyl group containing 6' 0,62 cm, Aufgezhlt + Ebene: I + Ausgerichtet an: 1,97 cm to 22 carbon atoms, the sum of x, y and z is 0 or stands for numbers + Tabstopp nach: 2,67 cm + Einzug bei: 2,67 cm, between 1 and 30, preferably 2 to 10, and X stands for an alkali metal or Tabstopps: 1,32 cm, Ustentabstopp + Nicht an 1,4 alkaline earth metal. In the context of the invention, typical examples of Icm + 2,67 cm suitable monoglyceride (ether) sulfates are the reaction products of 30 H 07320 PCT lauric acid monoglyceride, cocoa fatty acid monoglyceride, palmitic acid monoglyceride, stearic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride and tallow fatty acid monoglyceride as well as their ethylene oxide adducts with sulfur trioxide or chlorosulfonic acid in the form of their sodium salts. Preferably, monoglyceride sulfates of Formula (Tlll) are added, in which R 36 CO stands for a linear acyl group containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms. monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates are for example described in EP-B1-0 561 825, EP-B1-0 561 999, DE Al 42 04 700 or by A.K. Biswas et al. in J. Am. Oil Chem. Soc. 37, 171 (1960) and F.U. Ahmed in J.Am.Oil.Chem.Soc. 67, 8 (1990). [0088] Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids with 10 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule and sulfosuccinic acid mono and dialkyl esters with 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid mono-alkyl polyoxyethyl esters with 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethylene groups. [0089] Zwitterionic surfactants are designated as those surface-active compounds that carry at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO) or -SO3. group in the molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl-N,N-dimethyl ammonium glycinates, for example the cocoalkyl dimethyl ammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N,N-dimethyl ammonium glycinates, for example the cocoacylaminopropyl dimethyl ammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3 carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl imidazolines with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in each of the alkyl or acyl groups, as well as cocoacylaminoethyl hydroxyethyl carboxymethyl glycinate. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative, known under the INC name Cocamidopropyl Betaine. [0090] The ampholytic surfactants are understood to include such surface active compounds that apart from a Ca-C 24 - alkyl or acyl group, comprise at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO 3 H group in the molecule, and are able to form internal salts. Examples of suitable ampholytic 31 H 07320 PCT surfactants are N-alkyl glycines, N-alkylamino propionic acids, N-alkylamino butyric acids, N-alkylimino dipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N alkylamidopropylglycine, N-alkyl taurines, N-alkyl sarcosines, 2-alkylamino propionic acids and alkylamino acetic acids, each with about 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N cocoalkylamino propionate, cocoacylaminoethylamino propionate and C 1 2

-C

1 8 acyl sarcosine. [0091] Non-ionic surfactants comprise e.g. a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether groups as the hydrophilic group. Exemplary compounds of this type are - addition products of 2 to 50 moles ethylene oxide and/or 0 to 5 moles propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms and to alkyl phenols with 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, - methyl or C 2

-C

6 alkyl group end blocked addition products of 2 to 50 moles ethylene oxide and/or 0 to 5 moles propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols with 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms and to alkyl phenols with 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, such as, for example, the commercially available types Dehydol* LS, Dehydol@ LT (Cognis), - C 12

-C

30 fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 moles ethylene oxide to glycerol, - addition products of 5 to 60 moles ethylene oxide on castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil, - polyol esters of fatty acids, such as, for example, the commercial product Hydagen* HSP (Cognis) or Sovermol types (Cognis), - alkoxylated triglycerides, - alkoxylated fatty acid esters of the Formula R 37

CO-(OCH

2

CHR

3 8

),OR

39 (IX), in which R 37 CO- stands for a linear or branched, saturated and/or unsaturated acyl group with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R 3 8 for hydrogen or 32 H 07320 PCT methyl, R 39 for linear or branched alkyl groups with 1 to 4 carbon atoms and w for numbers from 1 to 20, - amine oxides, - mixed hydroxy ethers, such as described for example in DE-OS 19738866, - sorbitol esters of fatty acids and addition products of ethylene oxide to sorbitol esters of fatty acids such as e.g. the polysorbates, - sugar esters of fatty acids and addition products of ethylene oxide to sugar esters of fatty acids, - addition products of ethylene oxide to fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines, - fatty acid N-alkylglucamides, - alkyl polyglycosides corresponding to the general formula RO-(Z)x wherein R stands for alkyl, Z for sugar and x for the number of sugar units. The alkyl polyglycosides used according to the invention may simply comprise a defined alkyl group R. However normally, these compounds are manufactured from natural fats and oils or mineral oils. In which case, the alkyl groups R are present as mixtures corresponding to the starting compounds or to each of the compounds worked up. [0092] Such alkyl polyglycosides are particularly preferred in which R consists - Formatiert: Einzug: Hangend: - essentially of C 8 and C1o alkyl groups, 0,08 cm, Aufgez ht + Ebene: 1 + Ausgerlchtet an: 0,7 cm + Tabstopp nach: 1,4 cm + - essentially of C 12 - and C14 alkyl groups, Einzug bel: 1,4 cm - essentially of C 8 - to C16 alkyl groups or - essentially of C 1 2 - to C1e alkyl groups or - essentially of Cle- to C18 alkyl groups. [0093]Any mono or oligosaccharide can be employed as the sugar building block Z. Usually, sugars with 5 or 6 carbon atoms as well as the corresponding oligosaccharides are used. Such sugars are for example, glucose, fructose, 33 H 07320 PCT galactose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, allose, altrose, mannose, gulose, idose, talose and sucrose. Preferred sugar building blocks are glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose and sucrose; glucose is particularly preferred. [0094] The alkyl polyglycosides used according to the invention comprise on average 1.1 to 5 sugar units. Alkyl polyglycosides with x-values of 1.1 to 2.0 are preferred. Alkyl polyglycosides with x-values of 1.1 to 1.8 are quite particularly preferred. [0095] The alkoxylated homologs of the cited alkyl polyglycosides can also be used according to the invention. These homologs can comprise on average up to 10 ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide units per alkyl glycoside unit. [0096] Alkylene oxide addition products to saturated, linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids, each with 2 to 30 moles ethylene oxide per mole fatty alcohol or fatty acid, have proved to be preferred non-ionic surfactants. Preparations with excellent properties are also obtained when they comprise fatty acid esters of ethoxylated glycerol as the non-ionic surfactant. [0097] These compounds are characterized by the following parameters. The alkyl group R comprises 6 to 22 carbon atoms and may be both linear and also branched. Primary linear aliphatic groups and aliphatic groups that are methyl branched in the 2-position, are preferred. Such alkyl groups are for example 1 octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl, 1-cetyl and 1-stearyl. 1-Octyl, 1-decyl, 1 lauryl, 1-myristyl are particularly preferred. On using so-called "oxo alcohols" as starting materials, compounds with an odd number of carbon atoms in the alkyl chain preponderate. [0098] For compounds with alkyl groups that are used as surfactants, they may each be pure substances. However, it is normally preferred to start with natural vegetal or animal raw materials for the manufacture of these materials, with the result that mixtures of substances are obtained, which have different alkyl chain lengths that depend on each raw material. [0099] For surfactants, which are represented by the addition products of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide to fatty alcohols or derivatives of these 34 H 07320 PCT addition products, both products with a "normal" homolog distribution as well as those with a narrow homolog distribution may be used. The term "normal" homolog distribution is understood to mean mixtures of homologs obtained from the reaction of fatty alcohols and alkylene oxide using alkali metals, alkali metal hydroxides or alkali metal alcoholates as catalysts. On the other hand, narrow homolog distributions are obtained if e.g. hydrotalcite, alkaline earth metal salts of ether carboxylic acids, alkaline earth metal oxides, -hydroxides or -alcoholates are used as catalysts. The use of products with a narrow homolog distribution can be preferred. [0100] The surfactants are used in quantities of 0.1 - 45 wt.%, preferably 0.5 30 wt./o and quite particularly preferably from 1 -15 wt.%, based on the total agent. (0101]According to the invention, cationic surfactants of the type quaternary ammonium compounds, the esterquats and the amido amines are likewise preferred. Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, particularly chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chloride, e.g. cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride, as well as the imidazolium compounds known under the INCI designations Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83. The long alkyl chains of the abovementioned surfactants have preferably 10 to 18 carbon atoms. [0102] Esterquats are known compounds, which both comprise at least one ester function and also a quaternary ammonium group as structural elements. Preferred esterquats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines. Such products are marketed, for example, under the trade names Stepantex*, Dehyquart* and Armocare*. The products Armocare* VGH-70, an N,N-bis(2 palmitoyloxyethyl)dimethyl ammonium chloride, as well as Dehyquart* F-75, 35 H 07320 PCT Dehyquart* C-4046, Dehyquart* L80 and Dehyquart* AU 35 are examples of such esterquats. (0103] The alkylamido amines are normally manufactured by the amidation of natural or synthetic fatty acids and fatty acid fractions with dialkylamino amines. According to the invention, a particularly suitable compound from this substance group is represented by stearamidopropyldimethylamine, commercially available under the designation Tegamid* S 18. [0104] The inventive agents preferably comprise the cationic surfactants in quantities of 0.05 to 10 wt.%, based on the total agent. Quantities of 0.1 to 5 wt.% are particularly preferred. [0105] In a further preferred embodiment of the invention, the action of the inventive agent can be further optimized by means of fats. Fats are understood to mean fatty acids, fatty alcohols, natural and synthetic waxes that can exist both in solid form as well as liquid in aqueous dispersion, and natural and synthetic cosmetic oil components. [0106] Linear and/or branched, saturated and/or unsaturated fatty acids having 6 - 30 carbon atoms can be used as the fatty acids. Fatty acids containing 10 22 carbon atoms are preferred. Among these may be cited the isostearic acids, such as the commercial products Emersol* 871 and Emersol@ 875, and isopalmitic acids such as the commercial product Edenor* IP 95, as well as all other fatty acids commercialized under the trade names Edenor* (Cognis). Further typical examples of such fatty acids are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2 ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidonic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid as well as their technical mixtures, that e.g. result from cracking of natural fats and oils, from the oxidation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxo synthesis or the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids. Usually, the fatty acid fractions obtainable from coconut oil and palm oil are particularly preferred; in general, the addition of stearic acid is particularly preferred. 36 H 07320 PCT [0107] The addition quantity ranges from 0.1-15 wt.%, based on the total agent. In a preferred embodiment, the quantity ranges from 0.5-10 wt.%, quantities of 1-5 wt.% being quite particularly advantageous. [0108] As fatty alcohols, saturated, mono or multiply unsaturated, branched or linear fatty alcohols containing C 6 to C 30 -, preferably C10 to C 22 - and quite particularly preferably C 12 to C 22 - carbon atoms can be added. In the scope of the invention, decanol, octanol, octenol, dodecenol, decenol, octadienol, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, eruca alcohol, ricinol alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, capryl alcohol, caprinic alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol, as well as the Guerbet alcohols can be added, this listing being intended as exemplary and not limiting. However, the fatty alcohols are preferably derived from naturally occurring fatty acids, usually obtained by reducing the fatty acid esters. [0109] Likewise, according to the invention, those fatty alcohols can be added that are obtained by reducing naturally occurring triglycerides like beef tallow, palm oil, peanut oil, oil of rapeseed, cotton seed oil, soya oil, sunflower oil and linen oil, or the fatty acid esters produced from their transesterification products with appropriate alcohols, thereby producing a mixture of different fatty alcohols. Such substances can be bought, for example, under the trade names Stenol*, e.g. Stenol* 1618 or Lanettee, e.g. Lanette* 0 or Lorol@, e.g. Lorol* C8, Lorol@ C14, Lorol@ C18, Lorol@ C8-18, HD-Ocenol@, Crodacol@, e.g. Crodacol@ CS, Novol@, Eutanol* G, Guerbitol@ 16, Guerbitol@ 18, Guerbitol* 20, Isofol@ 12, Isofol@ 16, Isofol@ 24, Isofole 36, Isocarb@ 12, Isocarb@ 16 or Isocarb@ 24. Of course, wool wax alcohols such as those that are commercially available for example, under the trade names Corona*, White Swan*, Coronet* or Fluilan@ can also be added according to the invention. The fatty alcohols are added in quantities of 0.1-20 wt.%, based on the total preparation, preferably in quantities of 0.1-10 wt.%. [0110] According to the invention, solid paraffins or isoparaffins, carnuba wax, beeswax, candelilla wax, ozocerite, ceresine, sperm wax, sunflower wax, fruit 37 H 07320 PCT waxes such as for example apple wax or citrus wax, microwaxes of PE or PP can be added as the natural or synthetic waxes. These types of waxes are available, for example, from Kahl & Co., Trittau. [0111] Exemplary natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies, which can augment the action of the inventive active principle, include: - vegetal oils. Examples of such oils are sunflower oil, olive oil, soya oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach stone oil and the liquid parts of coconut oil. Other triglyceride oils such as the liquid fractions of beef tallow as well as synthetic triglyceride oils are also suitable, however. - liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons. - Ester oils. Ester oils are understood to mean the esters of C 6 - C 30 fatty acids with C2 - C30 fatty alcohols. Monoesters of fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred. Examples of added fatty acids moieties in the esters are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2 ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidonic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid as well as their technical mixtures, that e.g. result from cracking of natural fats and oils, from the oxidation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxo synthesis or the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids. Examples for the fatty alcohol moieties in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, capron alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, caprin alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol und brassidyl alcohol as well as their technical mixtures, that e.g. result from the high pressure hydrogenation of industrial methyl esters based on fats and oils or aldehydes from Roelen's oxo synthesis as well as the monomer fraction on the dimerization of unsaturated fatty 38 H 07320 PCT alcohols. According to the invention, isopropyl myristate (Rilanit* IPM), isononanoic acid-C16-18-alkyl ester (Cetiol* SN), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft* 24), Stearic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (Cetiol* 868), Cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate, cocofatty alcohol caprinate/-caprylate (Cetiol* LC), n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate (Cetiol* J 600), isopropyl palmitate (Rilanit@ IPP), oleyl oleate (Cetiol*), lauric acid hexyl ester (Cetiol* A), di-n-butyl adipate (Cetiol* B), myristyl myristate (Cetiol* MM), cetearyl isononanoate (Cetiol@ SN), oleic acid decyl ester (Cetiol* V) are particularly preferred. - Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di-(2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di-(2-ethylhexyl) succinate und di-isotridecyl acetate as well as diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol di isotridecanoate, propylene glycol di(2-ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol di-isostearate, propylene glycol di-pelargonate, butanediol di isostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprylate, - symmetrical, unsymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbon dioxide with fatty alcohols, e.g. described in DE-OS 197 56 454, glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol* CC), - mono, di and trifatty acid esters of saturated and/or unsaturated linear and/or branched fatty acids with glycerol, e.g. Monomuls* 90-018, Monomuls@ 90-L12 or Cutina* MD. [0112] The added quantities are 0.1 to 50 wt.%, based on the total agent, preferably 0.1 to 20 wt.% and particularly preferably 0.1 to 15 wt.%, based on the total agent. [0113] The total amount of oil and fat components in the inventive agents is normally 6 - 45 wt.%, based on the total agent. Quantities of 10 to 35 wt.% are preferred according to the invention. [0114] In addition it has been shown that the action of the combination of active substances can be enhanced if it is combined with esters of hydroxycarboxylic acids. Preferred hydroxycarboxylic acid esters are fully esterified glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid. Additional fundamentally 39 H07320PCT suitable hydroxycarboxylic acid esters are esters of -hydroxypropionic acid, of tartronic acid, of D-gluconic acid, of saccharic acid, of mucic acid or of glucuronic acid. Primary, linear or branched aliphatic alcohols containing 8 - 22 carbon atoms, i.e. fatty alcohols or synthetic fatty alcohols, are suitable alcohol moieties of these esters. The esters of C 12

-C

15 fatty alcohols are particularly preferred in this respect. Esters of this type are commercially available, e.g. under the trade name Cosmacol* from Enichem, Augusta Industriale. [0115] The hydroxycarboxylic acid esters are added in quantities of 0.1 - 15 wt.% based on the agent, preferably 0.1 - 10 wt.% and quite particularly preferably 0.1 - 5 wt.%. [0116] The combination of vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors as well as their derivatives in the combination of active substances has also proven to be advantageous. [0117]According to the invention, such vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors are preferred, which are normally classified in the groups A, B, C, E, F and H. [0118] In the group of substances designated as vitamin A, belong retinol (vitamin A 1 ) as well as 3,4-Didehydroretinol,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A 2 ). P carotene is the provitamin of retinol. Examples of suitable vitamin A components according to the invention are vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol as well as its esters such as the palmitate and acetate. The preparations according to the invention preferably comprise the vitamin A components in amounts of 0.05 - 1 wt.% based on the total preparation. [0119] The vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include inter alia -Vitamin B 1 (Thiamin) - Vitamin B 2 (Riboflavin) - Vitamin B 3 . The compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often included under this designation. According to the invention, 40 H 07320 PCT nicotinamide is preferred and is comprised in the inventively used agents in amounts of 0.05 to 1 wt.% based on the total agent. - Vitamin B5 (Pantothenic acid and Panthenol). In the context of this group, panthenol is preferably used. Useable derivatives of panthenol according to the invention are especially the esters and ethers of panthenol as well as cationically derivatized panthenols. Specific representatives are for example, panthenol triacetate, panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate as well as the cationic panthenol derivatives disclosed in WO 92/13829. The cited compounds of the vitamin B5 type are preferably comprised in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.05 to 10 wt.%, based on the total agent. Quantities of 0.1 to 5 wt.% are particularly preferred. - Vitamin B6 (Pyridoxine as well as Pyridoxamine and Pyridoxal). [0120] Vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Vitamin C is preferably added to the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.1 to 3 wt.%, based on the total agent. Its use in the form of the palmitate ester, the glucosides or phosphates can be preferred. Its use in combination with tocopherols can also be preferred. [0121] Vitamin E (Tocopherols, especially a-tocopherol). Tocopherol and its derivatives, among which particularly the esters such as the acetate, the nicotinate, the phosphate and the succinate, are used in the agents according to the invention preferably comprised in amounts of 0.05 - 1 wt.%, based on the total agent. [0122] Vitamin F. The term "vitamin F" is usually taken to mean essential fatty acids, particularly linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonoic acid. [0123] Vitamin H. The compound (3aS,4S,6aR)-2-oxohexahydrothieno[3,4-d] imidazole-4-valeric acid denotes Vitamin H, for which the trivial name biotin has become accepted. The agents according to the invention preferably comprise biotin in amounts of 0.0001 to 1.0 wt.%, particularly in amounts of 0.001 to 0.01 wt.%. 41 H 07320 PCT [0124] The agents according to the invention preferably comprise vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, E and H. [0125] Panthenol, pantolactone, pyridoxine and its derivatives as well as nicotinamide and biotin are especially preferred. [0126] One very particularly preferred group of further active ingredients are the silicone oils (S). They are accordingly particularly preferably used in the agents according to the invention. Silicone oils bring about the most varied effects. For example, they simultaneously have an influence both on the feel of dry and wet skin and on its sheen, the skin generally being described as pleasantly silky and not exhibiting an unpleasantly greasy sheen. When used in addition to the active ingredient combination according to the invention, the advantages of the active ingredient combination according to the invention and the silicone oils complement one another excellently. It is therefore very particularly preferred to use silicone oils together with the active ingredient combination according to the invention. The term silicone oils is understood by the person skilled in the art to mean a plurality of organosilicon compounds of different structures. The first among these are the dimethiconols (Si). Dimethiconols form the first group of silicones which are particularly preferred according to the invention. The dimethiconols according to the invention may be both linear and branched and cyclic or cyclic and branched. Linear dimethiconols may be illustrated by the following structural formula (S1-I): (SiOHR' 2 ) - 0 - (SiR 2 2 - 0 - (SiOHR' 2 ) (Si - 1) (0127] Branched dimethiconols may be illustrated by the structural formula (Si-Il):

R

2 (SiOHR' 2 ) - 0 - (SiR 2 2 - 0 -) -Si- - (SiR 2 2 -0- ), (SiOHR' 2 ) (SiR 2 2 - 0 - ) (SiOHR' 2 ) 42 H 07320 PCT [0128]The residues R 1 and R 2 mutually independently denote in each case hydrogen, a methyl residue, a C2 to C30 linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon residue, a phenyl residue and/or an aryl residue. Non-limiting examples of the residues represented by R 1 and R 2 include alkyl residues, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; alkenyl residues, such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; cycloalkyl residues, such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; phenyl residues, benzyl residues, halogenated hydrocarbon residues, such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like and sulfur-containing residues, such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl and the like; R' and R 2 are preferably an alkyl residue containing 1 to approx. 6 carbon atoms, and R 1 and R 2 are most preferably methyl. Examples of R 1 include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene,

-CH

2

CH(CH

3

)CH

2 -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH 2

CH

2

SCH

2

CH

2 -,

-CH

2

CH

2 0CH 2 -, -OCH 2

CH

2 -, -OCH 2

CH

2

CH

2 -, -CH 2

CH(CH

3 )C(0)OCH 2 -,

-(CH

2

)

3

CC(O)OCH

2

CH

2 -, -C 6

H

4

C

6

H

4 -, -C 6

H

4

CH

2

C

6

H

4 -; and (CH 2

)

3

C(O)SCH

2

CH

2 -. R 1 and R 2 are preferably methyl, phenyl and C2 to C22 alkyl residues. The C2 to C22 alkyl residues are very particularly preferably lauryl, stearyl and behenyl residues. The numbers x, y and z are integers and run in each case mutually independently from 0 to 50000. The molar weights of the dimethicones are between 1000 D and 10000000 D. Viscosities are between 100 and 10000000 cPs measured at 25 0 C with the assistance of a glass capillary viscometer using the Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 of 20th July 1970. Preferred viscosities are between 1000 and 5000000 cPs, very particularly preferred viscosities are between 10000 and 3000000 cPs. The most preferred range is between 50000 and 2000000 cPs. [0129] Of course, the teaching according to the invention also provides that the dimethiconols may already be present as an emulsion. In this case, the corresponding dimethiconol emulsion may be produced both after the production of the corresponding dimethiconols from the latter and using the conventional methods of emulsification known to a person skilled in the art. To 43 H 07320 PCT this end, any of cationic, anionic, nonionic or zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers may be used as auxiliary materials for producing the corresponding emulsions. It goes without saying that the dimethiconol emulsions may also be produced directly by an emulsion polymerization method. Such methods are also well known to a person skilled in the art. In this respect, reference is made for example to the "Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering", Volume 15, Second Edition, pages 204 to 308, John Wiley & Sons., Inc. 1989. Reference is explicitly made to this standard work. If the dimethiconols according to the invention are used in the form of an emulsion, the droplet size of the emulsified particles then amounts according to the invention to 0.01 pm to 10000 pm, preferably 0.01 to 100 pm, very particularly preferably 0.01 to 20 pm and most preferably 0.01 to 10 pm. Particle size is here determined using the light scattering method. If branched dimethiconols are used, it should be understood that the branching is greater in this case than the chance branching which arises due to impurities in the respective monomers. For the purposes of the present compound, branched dimethiconols should therefore be taken to mean that the degree of branching is greater than 0.01%. Preferably, the degree of branching is greater than 0.1% and very particularly preferably greater than 0.5%. The degree of branching is determined in this case from the ratio of unbranched monomers, i.e. the quantity of monofunctional siloxane, to the branched monomers, i.e. the quantity of tri- and tetrafunctional siloxanes. According to the invention, dimethiconols with both a low and a high degree of branching may be very particularly preferred. [0130] The following commercial products can be mentioned as examples of such products: Botanisil NU-150M (Botanigenics), Dow Corning 1-1254 Fluid, Dow Corning 2-9023 Fluid, Dow Corning 2-9026 Fluid, Ultrapure Dimethiconol (Ultra Chemical), Unisil SF-R (Universal Preserve), X-21-5619 (Shin-Etsu Chemical Co.), Abil OSW 5 (Degussa Care Specialties), ACC DL-9430 Emulsion (Taylor Chemical Company), AEC Dimethiconol & Sodium Dodecylbenzenesulfonate (A & E Connock (Perfumery & Cosmetics, Ltd.), B C Dimethiconol Emulsion 95 (Basildon Chemical Company, Ltd.), Cosmetic Fluid 1401, Cosmetic Fluid 1403, Cosmetic Fluid 1501, Cosmetic Fluid 1401DC (all 44 H 07320 PCT above-stated from Chemsil Silicones, Inc.), Dow Corning 1401 Fluid, Dow Corning 1403 Fluid, Dow Corning 1501 Fluid, Dow Corning 1784 HVF Emulsion, Dow Corning 9546 Silicone Elastomer Blend (all above-stated from Dow Corning Corporation), Dub Gel SI 1400 (Stearinerie Dubois Fils), HVM 4852 Emulsion (Crompton Corporation), Jeesilc 6056 (Jeen International Corporation), Lubrasil, Lubrasil DS (both from Guardian Laboratories), Nonychosine E, Nonychosine V (both from Exsymol), SanSurf Petrolatum-25, Satin Finish (both from Collaborative Laboratories, Inc.), Silatex-D30 (Cosmetic Ingredient Resources), Silsoft 148, Silsoft E-50, Silsoft E-623 (all above-stated from Crompton Corporation), SM555, SM2725, SM2765, SM2785 (all above stated from GE Silicones), Taylor T-Sil CD-1, Taylor TME-4050E (all from Taylor Chemical Company), TH V 148 (Crompton Corporation), Tixogel CYD 1429 (Sud-Chemie Performance Additives), Wacker-Belsil CM 1000, Wacker Belsil CM 3092, Wacker-Belsil CM 5040, Wacker-Belsil DM 3096, Wacker Belsil DM 3112 VP, Wacker-Belsil DM 8005 VP, Wacker-Belsil DM 60081 VP (all above-stated from Wacker-Chemie GmbH). [0131] If the dimethiconols (S1) are contained in the agent, these agents contain 0.01 to 10 wt.%, preferably 0.1 to 8 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.25 to 7.5 wt.% and in particular 0.5 to 5 wt.% of dimethiconol relative to the agent. [0132] Dimethicones (S2) form the second group of silicones which are particularly preferred according to the invention. The dimethicones according to the invention may be both linear and branched and cyclic or cyclic and branched. Linear dimethicones may be illustrated by the following structural formula (S2-1): (SiR' 3 ) - 0 - (SiR - 0 - - (SiR',) (S2 - 1) 45 H 07320 PCT [0133] Branched dimethicones may be illustrated by the structural formula (S2-l ):

R

2 (SiR 3 ) - O - (SiR 2 2 -O-). -Si-O-(SiR 2 2 - ),- (SiR' 3 ) O - (SiR22 - O - )e(SiR,) [0134] The residues R' and R 2 mutually independently denote in each case hydrogen, a methyl residue, a C 2 to C 30 linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon residue, a phenyl residue and/or an aryl residue. Non-limiting examples of the residues represented by R 1 and R 2 include alkyl residues, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; alkenyl residues, such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; cycloalkyl residues, such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; phenyl residues, benzyl residues, halogenated hydrocarbon residues, such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like and sulfur-containing residues, such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl and the like;

R

1 and R 2 are preferably an alkyl residue containing 1 to approx. 6 carbon atoms, and R' and R 2 are most preferably methyl. Examples of R 1 include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene,

-CH

2

CH(CH

3

)CH

2 -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH 2

CH

2

SCH

2

CH

2 -,

-CH

2

CH

2 0CH 2 -, -OCH 2

CH

2 -, -OCH 2

CH

2

CH

2 -, -CH 2

CH(CH

3

)C(O)OCH

2 -,

-(CH

2

)

3

CC(O)OCH

2

CH

2 -, -C 6

H

4

C

6

H

4 -, -C 6

H

4

CH

2

C

6

H

4 -; and (CH 2

)

3

C(O)SCH

2

CH

2 -. R 1 and R 2 are preferably methyl, phenyl and C 2 to C22 alkyl residues. The C2 to C 22 alkyl residues are very particularly preferably lauryl, stearyl and behenyl residues. The numbers x, y and z are integers and run in each case mutually independently from 0 to 50000. The molar weights of the dimethicones are between 1000 D and 10000000 D. Viscosities are between 100 and 10000000 cPs measured at 25 0 C with the assistance of a glass capillary viscometer using the Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 of 20th July 1970. Preferred viscosities are between 1000 and 5000000 46 H 07320 PCT cPs, very particularly preferred viscosities are between 10000 and 3000000 cPs. The most preferred range is between 50000 and 2000000 cPs. [0135] Of course, the teaching according to the invention also provides that the dimethicones may already be present as an emulsion. In this case, the corresponding dimethicone emulsion may be produced both after the production of the corresponding dimethicones from the latter and using the conventional methods of emulsification known to a person skilled in the art. To this end, any of cationic, anionic, nonionic or zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers may be used as auxiliary materials for producing the corresponding emulsions. It goes without saying that the dimethicone emulsions may also be produced directly by an emulsion polymerization method. Such methods are also well known to a person skilled in the art. In this respect, reference is made for example to the "Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering", Volume 15, Second Edition, pages 204 to 308, John Wiley & Sons., Inc. 1989. Reference is explicitly made to this standard work. If the dimethicones according to the invention are used in the form of an emulsion, the droplet size of the emulsified particles then amounts according to the invention to 0.01 pm to 10000 pm, preferably 0.01 to 100 pm, very particularly preferably 0.01 to 20 pm and most preferably 0.01 to 10 pm. Particle size is here determined using the light scattering method. If branched dimethicones are used, it should be understood that the branching is greater in this case than the chance branching which arises due to impurities in the respective monomers. For the purposes of the present compound, branched dimethicones should therefore be taken to mean that the degree of branching is greater than 0.01%. Preferably, the degree of branching is greater than 0.1% and very particularly preferably greater than 0.5%. The degree of branching is determined in this case from the ratio of unbranched monomers, i.e. the quantity of monofunctional siloxane, to the branched monomers, i.e. the quantity of tri- and tetrafunctional siloxanes. According to the invention, dimethicones with both a low and a high degree of branching may be very particularly preferred. 47 H 07320 PCT [0136] If the dimethicones (S2) are contained in the agent according to the invention, these agents contain 0.01 to 10 wt.%, preferably 0.1 to 8 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.25 to 7.5 wt.% and in particular 0.5 to 5 wt.% of dimethicone relative to the agent. [0137] Dimethicone copolyols (S3) form a further group of preferred silicones. Dimethiconols may be illustrated by the following structural formula: (SiR'2) - O-(SiR,_-O_-), -(SiRPE - O-), -(SiR',) (S3 -1) or by the following structural formula: PE - (SiR' 2 ) -0- (SiR', -O-), -(SiR,) - PE (S3 - Ii) [0138] Branched dimethicone copolyols may be illustrated by the structural formula (S3-ll1):

R

2 PE - (SiR',) - 0 - (SiRN - O - , Si - O - (SiR' , - (SiR',) - PE (S3-111i) (SiR' 2 - - ) - (SiR' 2 ) - PE or by the structural formula (S3-IV): R 2 (SiR',) - O-(SiR',- O- ). - Si - O-(SiR2 PE - O-), -(SiR',) (S3 - IV) (SiR 2 -0 - )z - (SiR',) [0139] The residues R 1 and R 2 mutually independently denote in each case hydrogen, a methyl residue, a C 2 to C 30 linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon residue, a phenyl residue and/or an aryl residue. Non-limiting examples of the residues represented by R' and R 2 include alkyl residues, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; alkenyl residues, such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; cycloalkyl residues, such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; phenyl residues, benzyl 48 H 07320 PCT residues, halogenated hydrocarbon residues, such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like and sulfur-containing residues, such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl and the like;

R

1 and R 2 are preferably an alkyl residue containing 1 to approx. 6 carbon atoms, and R 1 and R 2 are most preferably methyl. Examples of R 1 include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene,

-CH

2

CH(CH

3

)CH

2 -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH 2

CH

2

SCH

2

CH

2 -,

-CH

2

CH

2

OCH

2 -, -OCH 2

CH

2 -, -OCH 2

CH

2

CH

2 -, -CH 2

CH(CH

3

)C(O)OCH

2 -,

-(CH

2

)

3

CC(O)OCH

2

CH

2 -, -C 6

H

4

C

6

H

4 -, -C 6

H

4

CH

2

C

6

H

4 -; and (CH 2

)

3

C(O)SCH

2

CH

2 -. R 1 and R 2 are preferably methyl, phenyl and C 2 to C 2 2 alkyl residues. The C 2 to C 22 alkyl residues are very particularly preferably lauryl, stearyl and behenyl residues. PE denotes a polyoxyalkylene residue. Preferred polyoxyalkylene residues are derived from ethylene oxide, propylene oxide and glycerol. The numbers x, y and z are integers and run in each case mutually independently from 0 to 50000. The molar weights of the dimethicones are between 1000 D and 10000000 D. Viscosities are between 100 and 10000000 cPs measured at 25*C with the assistance of a glass capillary viscometer using the Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 of 20th July 1970. Preferred viscosities are between 1000 and 5000000 cPs, very particularly preferred viscosities are between 10000 and 3000000 cPs. The most preferred range is between 50000 and 2000000 cPs. [0140] Of course, the teaching according to the invention also provides that the dimethicone copolymers may already be present as an emulsion. In this case, the corresponding dimethicone copolyol emulsion may be produced both after the production of the corresponding dimethicone copolyols from the latter and using the conventional methods of emulsification known to a person skilled in the art. To this end, any of cationic, anionic, nonionic or zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers may be used as auxiliary materials for producing the corresponding emulsions. It goes without saying that the dimethicone copolyol emulsions may also be produced directly by an emulsion polymerization method. Such methods are also well known to a person skilled in the art. In this respect, reference is made for example to the "Encyclopedia of Polymer 49 H 07320 PCT Science and Engineering", Volume 15, Second Edition, pages 204 to 308, John Wiley & Sons., Inc. 1989. Reference is explicitly made to this standard work. [0141] If the dimethicone copolyols according to the invention are used in the form of an emulsion, the droplet size of the emulsified particles then amounts according to the invention to 0.01 pm to 10000 pm, preferably 0.01 to 100 pm, very particularly preferably 0.01 to 20 pm and most preferably 0.01 to 10 pm. Particle size is here determined using the light scattering method. If branched dimethicone copolyols are used, it should be understood that the branching is greater in this case than the chance branching which arises due to impurities in the respective monomers. For the purposes of the present compound, branched dimethicone copolyols should therefore be taken to mean that the degree of branching is greater than 0.01%. Preferably, the degree of branching is greater than 0.1% and very particularly preferably greater than 0.5%. The degree of branching is determined in this case from the ratio of unbranched monomers, i.e. the quantity of monofunctional siloxane, to the branched monomers, i.e. the quantity of tri- and tetrafunctional siloxanes. According to the invention, dimethicone copolyols with both a low and a high degree of branching may be very particularly preferred. [0142] If the dimethicone copolyols (S3) are contained in the agent, these agents contain 0.01 to 10 wt.%, preferably 0.1 to 8 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.25 to 7.5 wt.% and in particular 0.5 to 5 wt.% of dimethicone copolyol relative to the agent. [0143] Amino-functional silicones or amodimethicones (S4) are silicones which comprise at least one (optionally substituted) amino group. [0144] Such silicones may, for example, be described by the formula (S4-1) M(R*QOSiOj-.a- (RSiO(, M (S4 - 1) wherein in the above formula R is a hydrocarbon or a hydrocarbon residue with 1 to approx. 6 carbon atoms, Q is a polar residue of the general formula -R'HZ, in which R 1 is a divalent linking group, which is attached to hydrogen and the residue Z, composed of carbon and hydrogen atoms, carbon, hydrogen and 50 H 07320 PCT oxygen atoms or carbon, hydrogen and nitrogen atoms, and Z is an organic, amino-functional residue, which contains at least one amino-functional group; "a" assumes values in the range from approx. 0 to approx. 2, "b" assumes values in the range from approx. 1 to approx. 3, "a" + "b" is less than or equal to 3, and "c" is a number in the range from approx. 1 to approx. 3, and x is a number in the range from 1 to approx. 2000, preferably from approx. 3 to approx. 50 and most preferably from approx. 3 to approx. 25, and y is a number in the range from approx. 20 to approx. 10000, preferably from approx. 125 to approx. 10000 and most preferably from approx. 150 to approx. 1000, and M is a suitable silicone end group, as known in the prior art, preferably trimethylsiloxy. Non-limiting examples of the residues represented by R include alkyl residues, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; alkenyl residues, such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; cycloalkyl residues, such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; phenyl residues, benzyl residues, halogenated hydrocarbon residues, such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like and sulfur-containing residues, such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl and the like; R is preferably an alkyl residue containing 1 to approx. 6 carbon atoms, and R is most preferably methyl. Examples of R 1 include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, -CH 2

CH(CH

3

)CH

2 -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH 2

CH

2

SCH

2

CH

2 -, -CH 2

CH

2 0CH 2 -, -OCH 2

CH

2 -,

-OCH

2

CH

2

CH

2 -, -CH 2

CH(CH

3

)C(O)OCH

2 -, -(CH 2

)

3

CC(O)OCH

2

CH

2 -, -C6H 4

C

6

H

4 -, -C 6

H

4

CH

2

C

6

H

4 -; and -(CH 2

)

3

C(O)SCH

2

CH

2 -. [0145]Z is an organic, amino-functional residue containing at least one functional amino group. A possible formula for Z is NH(CH 2 )zNH 2 , in which z is 1 or more. Another possible formula for Z is -NH(CH 2 )z(CH 2 )zzNH, in which both z and zz are mutually independently an integer greater than or equal to 1, this structure comprising diamino ring structures, such as piperazinyl. Z is most preferably an -NHCH 2

CH

2

NH

2 residue. Another possible formula for said Z is

-N(CH

2 )z(CH 2 )zzNX 2 or -NX 2 , in which each X of X 2 is independently selected 51 H 07320 PCT from the group consisting of hydrogen and alkyl groups having 1 to 12 carbon atoms, and zz is 0. [0146] Q is most preferably a polar, amino-functional residue of the formula

CH

2

CH

2

CH

2

NHCH

2

CH

2

NH

2 . In the formulae, "a" assumes values in the range from 0 to approx. 2, "b" assumes values in the range from approx. 2 to approx. 3, "a" + "b" is less than or equal to 3, and "c" is a number in the range from approx. 1 to approx. 3. The molar ratio of the RaQb SiO(4-a-b)/2 units to the RcSiO( 4

-)/

2 units is in the range from approx 1:2 to 1:65, preferably from approx. 1:5 to approx. 1:65 and most preferably from approx. 1:15 to approx. 1:20. If one or more silicones of the above formula are used, then the various variable substituents in the above formula may be different in the various silicone components which are present in the silicone mixture. [0147] Preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain an amino-functional silicone of the formula (S4-1I) R'sG 3 .a-Si(OSiG 2 )n-(OSiG R'2. )m-O-SiG 3 ..- R'. (S4 - II), in which: - G is -H, a phenyl group, -OH, -0-CH 3 , -CH 3 , -CH 2

CH

3 ,

-CH

2

CH

2

CH

3 , -CH(CH 3

)

2 , -CH 2

CH

2

CH

2

H

3 , -CH 2

CH(CH

3

)

2 ,

-CH(CH

3

)CH

2

CH

3 , -C(CH 3

)

3 ; - a denotes a number between 0 and 3, in particular 0; - b denotes a number between 0 and 1, in particular 1, - m and n are numbers, the sum of which (m + n) amounts to between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, with n preferably assuming values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably assuming values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10, - R' is a monovalent residue selected from o -N(R")-CH 2

-CH

2

-N(R")

2 o -N(R") 2 o -N*(R")3A o -N*H(R") 2

A

52 H 07320 PCT o -N*H2(R")A' o -N(R")-CH 2

-CH

2

-N*R"H

2 A~, each R" denoting identical or different residues from the group -H, -phenyl, -benzyl, C1-20 alkyl residues, preferably

-CH

3 , -CH 2

CH

3 , -CH 2

CH

2

CH

3 , -CH(CH 3

)

2 , -CH 2

CH

2

CH

2

H

3 ,

-CH

2

CH(CH

3

)

2 , -CH(CH 3

)CH

2

CH

3 , -C(CH 3

)

3 , and A represents an anion which is preferably selected from chloride, bromide, iodide or methosulfate. (0148] Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain an amino-functional silicone of the formula (S4-Ill)

(CH

3

)

3 Si-[O-Si(CH 3 )],[OSi(CH3) 2 ].-OSi(CH 3 ), (S4 - 1i),

CH

2

CH(CH

3

)CH

2 NH(CH2)2NH 2 in which m and n are numbers, the sum of which (m + n) amounts to between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, with n preferably assuming values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably assuming values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10. [0149] These silicones are denoted in accordance with the INCI Declaration as trimethylsilylamodimethicones. [0150] Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are also those which are characterized in that they contain an amino-functional silicone of the formula (S4-IV) R-[Si(CH3)Oln [Si(R)-01m-[Si(CH3) 2 1, 2 R (S4 - IV),

(CH

2

)NH(CH

2 )2NH 2 in which R denotes -OH, -0-CH 3 or a -CH 3 group and m, n1 and n2 are numbers the sum of which (m + n1 + n2) amounts to between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, the sum (n1 + n2) preferably assuming values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably assuming values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10. 53 H 07320 PCT [0151] These silicones are denoted in accordance with the INCI Declaration as amodimethicones. [0152] Irrespective of which amino-functional silicones are used, agents preferred according to the invention are those in which the amino-functional silicone has an amine value which is above 0.25 meq/g, preferably above 0.3 meq/g and in particular above 0.4 meq/g. The amine value here denotes the milliequivalents of amine per gram of the amino-functional silicone. It can be determined by titration and may also be stated in the unit mg of KOH/g. [0153] If the amodimethicones (S4) are contained in the agent, these agents contain 0.01 to 10 wt.%, preferably 0.1 to 8 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.25 to 7.5 wt.% and in particular 0.5 to 5 wt.% of amodimethicone relative to the agent. [0154] It goes without saying that the invention also comprises the recognition that a mixture of at least 2 different silicones may be used in the agents according to the invention. Preferred mixtures of different silicones are for example dimethicones and dimethiconols, linear dimethicones and cyclic dimethiconols. Very particularly preferred mixtures of silicones contain at least one cyclic dimethiconol and/or at least one dimethicone, at least one further non-cyclic dimethicone and/or at least one further dimethiconol. The most preferred mixtures contain at least one amino-functional silicone and at least one of the above-described mixtures. If different silicones are used as a mixture, the mixing ratio is extensively variable. However, all the silicones used for the mixture are preferably used in a ratio of from 5:1 to 1:5 in the case of a binary mixture. A ratio of 3:1 to 1:3 is particularly preferable. Very particularly preferred mixtures contain all the silicones contained in the mixture very largely' in a ratio of approx. 1:1, in each case relative to the quantities used in wt.%. [0155] If silicon mixtures are contained in the agent, these agents contain 0.01 to 10 wt.%, preferably 0.1 to 8 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.25 to 7.5 wt.% and in particular 0.5 to 5 wt.% of silicone mixture relative to the agent. 54 H 07320 PCT [0156] A UV filter (1) may furthermore be used in a preferred embodiment of the invention. UV filters to be used according to the invention are not subject to any general restrictions with regard to structure and physical properties. Rather, any UV filters usable in the field of cosmetics whose absorption maximum is in the UVA (315-400 nm), the UVB (280-315 nm) or the UVC (<280 nm) range are suitable. UV filters with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, in particular in the range from approx. 280 to approx. 300 nm, are particularly preferred. [0157] The UV filters serve, on the one hand, to protect the product, preventing bleaching of the colored phases of the shaped articles, for example. At the same time, however, the UV protective filters also serve to protect the washed skin. In particular, use in conjunction with polymers ensures elevated deposition of UV filters onto the skin during washing. As a consequence, an elevated quantity also remains on the skin after rinsing and so gives rise to an enhanced action. [0158] The UV filters may for example be selected from substituted benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, diphenylacrylic acid esters, cinnamic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles and o-aminobenzoic acid esters. [0159] Examples of UV filters usable according to the invention are 4 aminobenzoic acid, N,N,N-trimethyl-4-(2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl)aniline methyl sulfate, 3,3,5-trimethyl cyclohexyl salicylate (Homosalate), 2-hydroxy-4 methoxybenzophenone, (Benzophenone-3; Uvinul@M 40, Uvasorb@MET, Neo Heliopan@BB, Eusolex@4360), 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and the potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts thereof (Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid; Parsol@HS; Neo Heliopan@Hydro), 3,3'-(1,4-phenylene dimethylene)-bis(7,7-dimethyl-2-oxobicyclo-[2.2.1 ]hept-1 -ylmethanesulfonic acid) and the salts thereof, 1-(4-tert.-butylphenyl)-3-(4-methoxyphenyl)propane 1,3-dione (Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane; Parsol@1789, Eusolex@9020), a-(2-oxoborn-3-ylidene)-toluene-4-sulfonic acid and the salts thereof, ethoxylated 4-aminobenzoic acid ethyl ester (PEG-25 PABA; Uvinul@P 25), 4-dimethylaminobenzoic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (Octyl Dimethyl PABA; 55 H 07320 PCT Uvasorb@DMO, Escalol@507, Eusolex@6007), salicylic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (Octyl Salicylate; Escalol@587, Neo Heliopan@OS, Uvinul@018), 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester (Isoamyl p-Methoxycinnamate; Neo Heliopan@E 1000), 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (Octyl Methoxycinnamate; Parsol@MCX, Escalol@557, Neo Heliopan@AV), 2-hydroxy 4-methoxybenzophenone 5-sulfonic acid and the sodium salt thereof (Benzophenone-4; Uvinul@MS 40; Uvasorb@S 5), 3-(4'-methylbenzylidene) D,L-camphor (4-Methylbenzylidene camphor; Parsol@5000, Eusolex@6300), 3-benzylidenecamphor (3-Benzylidene camphor), 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, 2,4,6-trianilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethylhexyl-1'-oxy)-1,3,5-triazine, 3-imidazol-4-yl acrylic acid and the ethyl esters thereof, polymers of N-{(2 and 4)-[2-oxoborn-3 ylidenemethyl]benzyl}-acrylamide, 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone (Benzo phenone-1; Uvasorb@20 H, Uvinul@400), 1,1'-diphenylacrylonitrile acid 2 ethylhexyl ester (Octocrylene; Eusolex@OCR, Neo Heliopan@Type 303, Uvinul@N 539 SG), o-aminobenzoic acid menthyl ester (Menthyl Anthranilate; Neo Heliopan@MA), 2,2',4,4'-tetrahydroxybenzophenone (Benzophenone-2; Uvinul@D-50), 2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxybenzophenone (Benzophenone-6), 2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxybenzophenone-5-sodium sulfonate and 2-cyano 3,3-diphenylacrylic acid 2'-ethylhexyl ester. Preference is given to 4-aminobenzoic acid, N,N,N-trimethyl-4-(2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl)aniline methyl sulfate, 3,3,5-trimethyl cyclohexyl salicylate, 2-hydroxy-4 methoxybenzophenone, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and the potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts thereof, 3,3' (1,4-phenylenedimethylene)-bis(7,7-dimethyl-2-oxobicyclo-2.2.1 ]hept-1 -yl methanesulfonic acid) and the salts thereof, 1-(4-tert.-butylphenyl)-3-(4 methoxyphenyl)propane-1, 3-dione, a-(2-oxoborn-3-ylidene)-toluene-4-sulfonic acid and the salts thereof, ethoxylated 4-aminobenzoic acid ethyl ester, 4-dimethylaminobenzoic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, salicylic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2 ethyihexyl ester, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone 5-sulfonic acid and the sodium salt thereof, 3-(4'-methylbenzylidene)-D,L-camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor, 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, 2,4,6-trianilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethylhexyl-1' oxy)-1,3,5-triazine, 3-imidazol-4-ylacrylic acid and the ethyl esters thereof, 56 H 07320 PCT polymers of N-{(2 and 4)-[2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl]benzyl}-acrylamide. According to the invention, very particular preference is given to 2-hydroxy-4 methoxybenzophenone, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and the potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts thereof, 1-(4-tert.-butylphenyl)-3 (4-methoxyphenyl)propane-1,3-dione, 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester and 3-(4'-methylbenzylidene)-D,L-camphor. [0160] Those UV filters are preferred whose molar extinction coefficient at the absorption maximum is above 15000, in particular above 20000. [0161] It has additionally been found that, in the case of structurally similar UV filters, in many cases the water-insoluble compound displays for the purposes of the teaching according to the invention the greater action relative to those water-soluble compounds which differ therefrom by one or more additionally ionic groups. Those UV filters which are understood for the purposes of the invention to be water-insoluble are those which at 20*C are only 1 wt.%, in particular no more than 0.1 wt.%, soluble in water. Furthermore, these compounds should be at least 0.1, in particular at least 1 wt.%, soluble in conventional cosmetic oil components at room temperature. The use of water insoluble UV filters may therefore be preferred according to the invention. [0162] According to a further embodiment of the invention, those UV-filters are preferred which comprise a cationic group, in particular a quaternary ammonium group. [0163] These UV filters have the general structure U-Q. [0164] The structural element U therein denotes a UV radiation-absorbing group. This group may be derived in principle from the known above-stated UV filters usable in the field of cosmetics, in which a group, generally a hydrogen atom, of the UV filter is replaced by a cationic group Q, in particular with a quaternary amino function. Compounds from which the structural element U may be derived are for example - substituted benzophenones, 57 H 07320 PCT - p-aminobenzoic acid esters, - diphenylacrylic acid esters, - cinnamic acid esters, - salicylic acid esters, - benzimidazoles and - o-aminobenzoic acid esters. [0165] Structural elements U which are, derived from cinnamic acid amide or from N,N-dimethylaminobenzoic acid amide are preferred according to the invention. [0166] The structural elements U may in principle be selected such that the absorption maximum of the UV filters may lie both in the UVA(315-400 nm) and in the UVB (280-315nm) or in the UVC (<280 nm) range. UV filters with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, in particular in the range from approx. 280 to approx. 300 nm, are particularly preferred. [0167] Furthermore, the structural element U, also as a function of structural element Q, is preferably selected such that the molar extinction coefficient of the UV filter at the absorption maximum is above 15000, in particular above 20000. [0168] The structural element Q preferably contains a quaternary ammonium group as the cationic group. This quaternary ammonium group may in principle be linked directly to the structural element U, such that the structural element U is one of the four substituents of the positively charged nitrogen atom. However, one of the four substituents on the positively charged nitrogen atom is preferably a group, in particular an alkylene group with 2 to 6 carbon atoms, which functions as a link between the structural element U and the positively charged nitrogen atom. [0169] Advantageously, the group Q has the general structure -(CH 2 )x N*RR2 R' X~, in which x denotes an integer from 1 to 4, R 1 and R 2 mutually independently denote C 14 alkyl groups, R 3 denotes a C 1

-

22 alkyl group or a benzyl group and X- denotes a physiologically acceptable anion. In the context 58 H 07320 PCT of this general structure, x preferably denotes the number 3, R 1 and R 2 in each case denote a methyl group and R 3 denotes either a methyl group or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, hydrocarbon chain with 8 to 22, in particular 10 to 18, carbon atoms. [0170] Physiologically acceptable anions are for example inorganic anions such as halides, in particular chloride, bromide and fluoride, sulfate ions and phosphate ions and organic anions such as lactate, citrate, acetate, tartrate, methosulfate and tosylate. [0171]Two preferred UV filters with cationic groups are the commercially obtainable compounds cinnamic acid amidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride (incroquat@UV-283) and dodecyldimethylaminobenzamidopropyldimethyl ammonium tosylate (Escalol@ HP 610). [0172] It goes without saying that the teaching according to the invention also includes the use of a combination of two or more UV filters. In the context of this embodiment, the combination of at least one water-insoluble UV filter with at least one UV filter having a cationic group is preferred. [0173]The UV filters (I) are conventionally contained in the agents used according to the invention in quantities of 0.1-5 wt.% relative to the total agent. Quantities of 0.4-2.5 wt.% are preferred. [0174] Finally, the action of the combination of active substances can also be enhanced by the combined use with plant extracts. [0175] Usually, these extracts are manufactured by extraction of the whole plant. In individual cases, however, it can also be preferred to produce the extracts solely from blossoms and/or leaves of the plant. [0176] With regard to the inventively usable plant extracts, we particularly refer to extracts that are listed in the Table beginning on page 44 of the 3rd edition of the Guidelines for the Declaration of Ingredients in Cosmetics, (Leitfadens zur Inhaltsstoffdeklaration kosmetischer Mittel) published by the German 59 H 07320 PCT Cosmetics, Toiletry, Perfumery and Detergent Association e.V. (IKW), Frankfurt. [0177]According to the invention, mainly extracts from green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, hamamelis, hops, henna, camomile, burdock root, field horsetail, hawthorn, linden flowers, almonds, aloe vera, spruce needles, horse chestnut, sandal wood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, malva, lady's smock, common yarrow, thyme, lemon balm, rest-harrow, coltsfoot, marshmallow (althaea), meristem, ginseng and ginger are preferred. [0178] Extracts from green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, hamamelis, hops, camomile, burdock root, hawthorn, linden flowers, almonds, aloe vera, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, lady's smock, common yarrow, rest-harrow, meristem, ginseng, ginger Echinacea purpurea, Olea europea, Foeniculum vulgaris and Apium graveolens are particularly preferred. [0179] Extracts of green tea, almonds, aloe vera, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi and melon are quite particularly suitable for the inventive agent. [0180] The extraction agent used to prepare the cited plant extracts can be water, alcohols as well as their mixtures. Exemplary preferred alcohols are lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, but particularly polyhydroxy alcohols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol and butylene glycol, both as the sole extracting agent as well as in aqueous mixtures. Plant extracts based on water/propylene glycol in the ratio 1: 10 to 10: 1 have proven particularly suitable. [0181]According to the invention, the plant extracts can be used in pure and also in diluted form. When they are used in diluted form, they normally comprise ca. 2 - 80 wt.% active substance and the solvent is the extracting agent or mixture of extracting agents used for their preparation. [0182] In addition, it can be preferred to employ mixtures of a plurality, particularly two different plant extracts in the agents according to the invention. 60 H 07320 PCT [0183] Furthermore, it was found that the action of the inventive combination of active substances in cosmetic agents can be further enhanced in combination with substances that comprise primary or secondary amino groups. Examples of such amino compounds are ammonia, monoethanolamine, 2-amino-2 methyl-1-propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-propanediol as well as basic amino acids such as for example lysine, arginine or histidine. These amines can of course also be employed in the form of the corresponding salts with inorganic and/or organic acids, such as for example as ammonium carbonate, ammonium citrate, ammonium oxalate, ammonium tartrate or lysine hydrochloride. The amines are employed together with the inventive agent in ratios of 1: 10 to 10: 1, preferably 3: 1 to 1: 3 and quite particularly preferably in stoichiometric quantities. [0184] The inventive agents can further comprise a perfume component, preferably a perfume oil. [01851 As perfume oils, the known mixtures of natural and synthetic odoriferous substances can be cited. Natural aromas are extracts of flowers (lilies, lavender, roses, jasmine, neroli, ylang ylang), stalks and leaves (geranium, patchouli, petit grain), fruits (aniseed, coriander, caraway, juniper), fruit skins (bergamot, lemons, oranges), roots (mace, angelica, celery, cardamom, costic, iris, calmus), wood (pine, sandal, guava, cedar, rose wood), herbs and grasses (tarragon, lemon grass, sage, thyme), needles and twigs (spruce, fir, scotch pine, larch), resins and balsam (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, olibanum, opoponax). In addition, raw materials of animal origin such as e.g. civet and castoreum can be considered. Typical synthetic odoriferous compounds are products of the type of the esters, ethers, aldehydes, ketones, alcohols and hydrocarbons. Perfume compounds of the ester type are, for example, benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert.-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, dimethylbenzyl carbinyl acetate, phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, ethylmethylphenyl glycinate, allylcyclohexyl propionate, styrallyl propionate and benzyl salicylate. The ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether; the aldehydes include, for example, the linear alkanals containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamen aldehyde, 61 H 07320 PCT hydroxycitronellal, lilial and bourgeonal; the ketones include, for example, the ionones, a-isomethyl ionone and methyl cedryl ketone; the alcohols include anethol, citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol and the hydrocarbons include, above all, the terpenes and balsams. However, mixtures of various odoriferous substances, which together produce an attractive fragrant note, are preferably used. The ethereal oils of lower volatility that are mostly used as aroma components are suitable as perfume oils, e.g. oil of sage, chamomile oil, clove oil, melissa oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, lime blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetivert oil, olibanum oil, galbanum oil, labolanum oil and lavender oil. Bergamot oil, dihydromyrcenol, lilial, lyral, citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol, a-hexylcinnamaldehyde, geraniol, benzyl acetone, cyclamen aldehyde, linalool, boisambrene forte, ambroxane, indole, hedione, sandelice, lemon oil, mandarin oil, orange oil, allyl amyl glycolate, cyclovertal, lavender oil, muscatel oil of sage, P-damascone, geranium oil bourbon, cyclohexyl salicylate, Vertofix coeur, iso-E-super, Fixolide NP, Evernyl, Iraldein gamma, phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, rose oxide, Romillat, Irotyl and Floramate, singly or in mixtures, are preferably employed. [0186] The perfume oils are added to the agent in quantities of 0.05 to 5 wt.%, preferably in a quantity of 0.1 to 2.5 wt.% and particularly in a quantity of 0.2 to 1.5 wt.%, based on the total agent. [0187] The perfume oils can be added to the agent in liquid form, undiluted or diluted with a solvent. Suitable solvents for this are e.g. ethanol, isopropanol, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, glycerol, propylene glycol, 1,2-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethyl phthalate, triethyl citrate, isopropyl myristate etc. [0188] In addition to the inventively mandatory components and the abovementioned, further preferred components, the inventive agents can, in principle, comprise all additional components for such cosmetic agents, which are known to the person skilled in the art. [0189] Further exemplary active products, auxiliaries and additives are: 62 H 07320 PCT - Thickeners like gelatine or plant gums, for example agar-agar, guar gum, alginates, xanthane gum, gum arabica, karaya gum, locust bean flour, linseed gums, dextrans, cellulose derivatives, e.g. methyl cellulose, hydroxyalkyl cellulose and carboxymethyl cellulose, starch fractions and derivatives such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, clays and layered silicates such as e.g. bentonite or synthetic hydrocolloids such as e.g. polyvinyl alcohol, the Ca, Mg or Zn soaps, - structurants such as maleic acid and lactic acid, - perfume oils, - dimethyl isosorbite, - cyclodextrins, - solvents and solubilizers such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol and diethylene glycol, - fiber structure improvers, particularly mono, di and oligosaccharides, such as, for example glucose, galactose, fructose, fruit sugar and lactose, - quaternized amines, such as methyl-1 -alkylamidoethyl-2 alkylimidazolium methosulfate, - defoamers such as silicones, - dyestuffs to color the agent, - anti-dandruff active materials like piroctone olamine, zinc omadine and climbazole, - photo protective agents, in particular derivatized benzophenones, cinnamic acid derivatives and triazines, - further substances for adjusting the pH, such as for example a- and p hydroxycarboxylic acids, - active principles like allantoin and bisabolol, - cholesterol, 63 H 07320 PCT - chelating agents like EDTA, NTA, P-alanine diacetic acid and phosphonic acids, - swelling and penetration agents such as glycerol, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, hydrogen carbonates, guanidines, ureas, and primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates, - ceramides. Ceramides are understood to mean N-acylsphingosine (fatty acid amides of sphingosine) or synthetic analogs of such lipids ("pseudo-ceramides"). - opacifiers like latex, styrene/PVP copolymers and styrene/acrylamide copolymers, - pearlizing agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate as well as PEG-3-distearate, - pigments, - reducing agents such as e.g. thioglycolic acid and its derivatives, thiolactic acid, cysteamine, thiomalic acid and a-mecaptoethane sulfonic acid, - propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N 2 0, dimethyl ether, CO 2 and air, - antioxidants, - deoxy sugar, - plant glycosides, - polysaccharides such as fucose or rhamnose. [0190] In another preferred embodiment of the invention, the combination of active substances according to the invention is employed in agents for dyeing keratinic fibers. For this, the combination of active substances according to the invention can, in principle, be added directly to the dye. However, the active substance is preferably applied to the dyed keratinic fiber in a separate step, either immediately subsequent to the actual dyeing operation or in separate treatments, optionally even days or weeks after the dyeing operation. 64 H 07320 PCT [0191] Here, the term "dyeing operation" includes all methods known to the person skilled in the art, in which a dye is applied to the optionally wetted hair, and the dye is either left on the hair for a period between a few minutes and ca. 45 minutes and then rinsed out with water or a surfactant-containing agent, or is left intact on the hair. In this context, reference is expressly made to the known handbooks that reproduce the corresponding knowledge of the person skilled in the art, for example the monograph by K. Schrader, Grundlagen und Rezepturen der Kosmetika, 2nd edition, Hithig Buch Verlag, Heidelberg, 1989. [0192] As already mentioned above, it is also possible in the context of the inventive teaching, although less preferred, to incorporate the combination of active substances directly into the dyes or tints. [0193] In principle, the agent of the dye or tint is not subject to any limitations. The following can be employed as dyes (precursors) - oxidation dye precursors of the developer and coupler type, - natural and synthetic substantive dyes and - precursors of nature-analogous dyes, such as indole and indoline derivatives, as well as mixtures of representatives of one or more of these groups. [0194] The oxidation dye precursors of the developer type that are employed are usually primary aromatic amines with an additional free or substituted hydroxyl or amino group in the para or ortho position, diaminopyridine derivatives, heterocyclic hydrazones, 4-aminopyrazole derivatives as well as 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine and derivatives thereof. Exemplary suitable developer components are p-phenylenediamine, p-toluylenediamine, p aminophenol, o-aminophenol, 1-(2'-hydroxyethyl)-2,5-diaminobenzene, N,N bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine, 2-(2,5-diaminophenoxy)-ethanol, 4 amino-3-methylphenol, 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6 triaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6 diaminopyrimidine, 2-dimethylamino-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2 hydroxymethylamino-4-aminophenol, bis-(4-aminophenyl)amine, 4-amino-3 65 H 07320 PCT fluorophenol, 2-aminomethyl-4-aminophenol, 2-hydroxymethyl-4-aminophenol, 4-amino-2-(diethylaminomethyl)phenol, bis-(2-hydroxy-5 aminophenyl)methane, 1,4-bis-(4-aminophenyl)-diazacycloheptane, 1,3-bis(N (2-hydroxyethyl)-N-(4-aminophenylamino))-2-propanol, 4-amino-2-(2 hydroxyethoxy)-phenol, 1,1 0-bis-(2,5-diaminophenyl)-1 4,7,1 0-tetraoxadecane as well as 4,5-diaminopyrazole derivatives according to EP 0 740 741 or WO 94/08970 such as e.g. 4,5-diamino-1-(2'-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole. Particularly advantageous developer components are p-phenylenediamine, p toluylenediamine, p-aminophenol, 1-(2'-hydroxyethyl)-2,5-diaminobenzene, 4 amino-3-methylphenol, 2-aminomethyl-4-aminophenol, 2,4,5,6 tetraaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6 triaminopyrimidine. [0195] m-Phenylenediamine derivatives, naphthol, resorcinol and resorcinol derivatives, pyrazolones and m-aminophenol derivatives are generally used as the oxidation dye precursors of the coupler type. Examples of such coupling components are: - m-aminophenol and derivatives thereof such as, for example, 5-amino 2-methylphenol, 5-(3-hydroxypropylamino)-2-methylphenol, 3-amino-2 chloro-6-methylphenol, 2-hydroxy-4-aminophenoxyethanol, 2,6 dimethyl-3-aminophenol, 3-trifluoroacetylamino-2-chloor-6 methylphenol, 5-amino-4-chloro-2-methylphenol, 5-amino-4-methoxy-2 methylphenol, 5-(2'-hydroxyethyl)-amino-2-methylphenol, 3 (diethylamino)-phenol, N-cyclopentyl-3-aminophenol, 1,3-dihydroxy-5 (methylamino)-benzene, 3-(ethylamino)-4-methylphenol and 2,4 dichloro-3-aminophenol, - o-amino phenol and derivatives thereof, - m-diaminobenzene and derivatives thereof such as, for example, 2,4 diaminophenoxyethanol, 1,3-bis-(2,4-diaminophenoxy)propane, 1 methoxy-2-amino-4-(2'-hydroxyethylamino)benzene, 1,3-bis-(2,4 diaminophenyl)-propane, 2,6-bis-(2-hydroxyethylamino)-1 methylbenzene and 1 -amino-3-bis-(2'-hydroxyethyl)aminobenzene, 66 H 07320 PCT - o-diaminobenzene and derivatives thereof such as, for example, 3,4 diaminobenzoic acid and 2,3-diamino-1-methylbenzene, - di- and trihydroxybenzene derivatives such as, for example, resorcinol, resorcinol monomethyl ether, 2-methyl resorcinol, 5-methyl resorcinol, 2,5-dimethyl resorcinol, 2-chlororesorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, pyrogallol and 1,2,4-trihydroxybenzene, - pyridine derivatives such as for example 2,6-dihydroxypyridine, 2 amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 2-amino-5-chloro-3-hydroxypyridine, 3-amino 2-methylamino-6-methoxypyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, 2,6-diaminopyridine, 2,3-diamino-6 methoxypyridine and 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine, - naphthalene derivatives such as, for example, 1-naphthol, 2-methyl-1 naphthol, 2-hydroxymethyl-1 -naphthol, 2-hydroxyethyl-1 -naphthol, 1,5 dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,6-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,7 dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,8-dihydroxynaphthalene, 2,7 dihydroxynaphthalene and 2,3-dihydroxynaphthalene, - morpholine derivatives such as, for example, 6 hydroxybenzomorpholine and 6-aminobenzomorpholine, - quinoxaline derivatives such as, for example, 6-methyl-1,2,3,4 tetrahydroquinoxaline, - pyrazole derivatives such as, for example, 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5 one, - indole derivatives such as, for example, 4-hydroxyindole, 6 hydroxyindole and 7-hydroxyindole, - methylenedioxybenzene derivatives such as, for example 1-hydroxy 3,4-methylenedioxybenzene, 1-amino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene and 1-(2'-hydroxyethyl)-amino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene. [0196] Particularly suitable coupler components are 1-naphthol, 1,5-, 2,7- and 1,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 3-aminophenol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 2-amino 3-hydroxypyridine, resorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, 2-chloro-6-methyl-3 67 H 07320 PCT aminophenol, 2-methyl resorcinol, 5-methyl resorcinol, 2,5-dimethyl resorcinol and 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine. [0197] Substantive dyes are usually nitrophenylenediamines, nitroamino phenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones or indophenols. Particularly suitable substantive dyes are the compounds known under the international designations or trade names HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, Basic Yellow 57, HC Orange 1, Disperse Orange 3, HC Red 1, HC Red 3, HC Red 13, HC Red BN, Basic Red 76, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, Basic Blue 99, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Black 9, Basic Brown 16 and Basic Brown 17 as well as 1,4-bis(p hydroxyethyl)amino-2-nitrobenzene, 4-amino-2-nitrodiphenylamine-2' carboxylic acid, 6-nitro-1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline, hydroxyethyl-2 nitrotoluidine, picramic acid, 2-amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, 4-ethylamino-3 nitrobenzoic acid and 2-chloro-6-ethylamino-1 -hydroxy-4-nitrobenzene. [0198] Naturally occurring substantive dyestuffs that are comprised are for example henna red, henna neutral, henna black, camomile leaves, sandalwood, black tea, alder buckthorn bark, sage, logwood, madder root, cashew, cedar and alkanet root. [0199] It is not required that each of the oxidation dyestuff precursors or the substantive dyestuffs be pure compounds. In fact, the inventive hair colorants, due to the manufacturing processes for the individual dyestuffs, may comprise minor quantities of even more components, in so far as they have no detrimental influence on the coloration result or that they must be excluded on other, e.g. toxicological grounds. [0200] Indoles and indolines as well as their physiologically compatible salts are used for example as precursors of nature-analogous dyes. Those indoles and indolines are preferably used, which have at least one hydroxy or amino group, preferably as the substituent on the six-membered ring. These groups can carry further substituents, e.g., in the form of an etherified or esterified hydroxyl group or an alkylated amino group. 5,6-Dihydroxyindoline, N-methyl-5,6 dihydroxyindoline, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-propyl-5,6 68 H 07320 PCT dihydroxyindoline, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, 5,6-dihydroxyindoline-2 carboxylic acid, 6-hydroxyindoline, 6-aminoindoline and 4-aminoindoline as well as 5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-ethyl-5,6 dihydroxyindole, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, 5,6-dihydroxyindole-2-carboxylic acid, 6-hydroxyindole, 6-aminoindole and 4 aminoindole have particularly advantageous properties. [0201] Within this group, emphasis is placed particularly on N-methyl-5,6 dihydroxyindoline, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-propyl-5,6 dihydroxyindoline, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline and, in particular, 5,6 dihydroxyindoline as well as N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-ethyl-5,6 dihydroxyindole, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole and especially the 5,6-dihydroxyindole. [0202] In the dyeing agents used in the scope of the method according to the invention, the indoline and indole derivatives can be used either as free bases or else in the form of their physiologically compatible salts with inorganic or organic acids, e.g., the hydrochlorides, the sulfates and hydrobromides. [0203] When using the dye precursors of the indoline or indole type, it can be preferred to employ them with at least one amino acid and/or at least one oligopeptide. Preferred amino acids are amino carboxylic acids, particularly a amino carboxylic acids and w-amino carboxylic acids. Arginine, lysine, ornithine and histidine are again particularly preferred a-amino carboxylic acids. A quite particularly preferred amino acid is arginine, employed particularly in the free state, but also as the hydrochloride. [0204] Hair dyes, in particular when the coloration results oxidatively, be it with atmospheric oxygen or with other oxidizing agents like hydrogen peroxide, are usually weakly acidic to alkaline, i.e. adjusted to the pH range 5 to 11. For this purpose, the dyes comprise alkalizing agents, usually alkali metal hydroxides or alkaline earth metal hydroxides, ammonia or organic amines. Preferred alkalizing agents are monoethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2 methylpropanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-amino-2-ethyl-1,3 propanediol, 2-amino-2-methylbutanol and triethanolamine as well as alkali 69 H 07320 PCT metal hydroxides or alkaline earth metal hydroxides. In particular, monoethanolamine, triethanolamine as well as 2-amino-2-methyl-propanol and 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propane diol are preferred in the scope of this group. The use of w-amino acids such as w-amino caproic acid is also possible as the alkalizing agent. [0205] If the actual hair colors are produced by means of an oxidative process, then conventional oxidizing agents can be used, such as in particular hydrogen peroxide or its addition products on urea, melamine or sodium borate. Oxidation with atmospheric oxygen as the sole oxidizing agent can also be preferred. Moreover, it is possible to carry out the oxidation with the help of enzymes, wherein the enzymes are employed both for producing oxidizing per compounds and also for enhancing the action of a small amount of oxidizing agent that is present, or also enzymes for transferring the electrons from suitable developer components (reducing agents) to atmospheric oxygen. Oxidases such as tyrosinase ascorbatoxidase and laccase are preferred but also glucoseoxidase, uricase or pyruvateoxidase. Mention should also be made of the method concerning the action of small amounts (e.g. 1 % and less, based on the total agent) of peroxidases to boost hydrogen peroxide. [0206] Advantageously, the oxidizing agent is prepared immediately prior to the hair coloration by mixing the preparation with the dye precursors. The resulting ready-for-use hair coloration preparation should preferably have a pH in the range 6 to 10. The hair dye is particularly preferably applied in a weakly alkaline milieu. The application temperatures can be in a range between 15 and 40 0 C, preferably at the scalp temperature. After an action time of ca. 5 to 45, particularly 15 to 30 minutes, the hair dye is removed from the hair to be dyed by rinsing. There is no need to wash the hair with a shampoo if a strong surfactant-containing carrier, e.g. a color enhancing shampoo, was used. [0207] Particularly for difficultly colorable hair, the preparation can be applied with the dye precursors onto the hair without previously blending them with the oxidation components. After an application time of 20 to 30 minutes, and optionally after an intermediate rinse, the oxidation component is applied. After 70 H 07320 PCT an application time of 10 to 20 minutes, the hair is then rinsed and if desired shampooed. In this embodiment, according to a first variant, in which the prior application of the dye precursors was intended to afford a better penetration into the hair, the agent is adjusted to a pH of about 4 to 7. According to a second variant, initially an air oxidation is aimed for, wherein the applied agent preferably has a pH from 7 to 10. In the subsequent accelerated post-oxidation, the use of acidically adjusted peroxydisulfate solutions can be preferred as the oxidizing agent. [0208] Moreover, the development of the coloration can be supported and enhanced by adding certain metal ions to the agent. Suitable metal ions are for example, Zn2+, Cu 2 +, Fe2+, Fe 3 *, Mn2+, Mn4*, Li*, Mg 2 +, Ca2+ and A13+. Zn2+, Cu 2 + and Mn2+ are particularly suitable here. In principle, the metal ions can be employed in the form of any desired, physiologically compatible salt. Preferred salts are the acetates, sulfates, halides, lactates and tartrates. By use of these metal salts, both the formation of the coloration can be accelerated, and the color tint can be selectively influenced. [0209] A second subject of the invention is the use of the inventive agent for activating hair growth. (0210] The use of the agent for increasing the release of the growth factors HGF and KGF and for enhancing the gene expression of a plurality of hair keratins is inventively preferred. [0211] The use of the agent for enhancing the gene expression of the hair keratins hHa4, hHa3-1, hHa2, hHb6 as well as the cytokeratins for strengthening the internal structure of human hair is inventively particularly preferred. [0212] A third subject of the invention is a method of activating the hair growth, in which the inventive agent is applied onto the hair or the hairy skin. [0213] A method for increasing the release of the growth factors HGF and KGF and for enhancing the gene expression of a plurality of hair keratins is inventively preferred. 71 H 07320 PCT [0214] A method for enhancing the gene expression of the hair keratins hHa4, hHa3-1, hHa2, hHb6 as well as the cytokeratins for strengthening the internal structure of human hair is inventively particularly preferred. [0215] The following examples illustrate the invention without, however, restricting it in any way. [0216] All data are in weight percent (wt.%). 72 H 07320 PCT Examples: [0217] A: Shampoo Name wt.% Citric acid 0.5 Laurethsulfate 13 Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate 6 Salicylic acid 0.2 D-Panthenol 75% 0.2 Na-benzoate 0.5 Euperlan*' PK 3000 AM 2.6 Cetioie 2 HE 0.5 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 0.1 Pantolactone 0.1 Ubiquinone 0.001 Ceteareth-25 0.5 NaCI 0.5 Water ad 100 [0218] B: Conditioner Name wt.% Liquid paraffin 1.5 Dehyquart*3 F 75 1.5 Isopropyl myristate 1 Varisoft** W 75 PG 1.5 Cetearyl Alcohol 4 Cyclomethicone 0.5 73 H 07320 PCT Dimethicone 0.5 Propyl paraben 0.2 Ubiquinone 0.01 Cetearath-9 0.8 Stearamidopropyldimethylamine 0.8 Dehyquart*5 A CA 3 Citric acid 0.4 Methylparaben 0.2 Phenoxyethanol 0.2 Pantolactone 0.2 Salcare* SC 96 0.5 Water ad 100 [0219] C: Hair rinse Name wt.% Stenol*l 1618 7 Pantolactone 0.1 Genamin*" KDM-P 1.2 Dehyquart* 3 F 75 1.2 Amodimethicone 0.5 Ubiquinone 0.01 Ceteareth-25 0.8 Cetyl ester 0.5 Methylparaben 0.2 Perfume 0.3 Phenoxyethanol 0.4 74 H 07320 PCT Water ad 100 [0220] D: Hair tonic Name wt.% Pantolactone 0.1 Allantoin 0.1 Benzophenone-4 0.03 Synthalen* 9 K 0.24 Neutral'O TE 0.25 Ethanol 96% DEP denatured 40 Ubiquinone 0.01 Ceteareth-25 0.1 Menthol. natural 0.03 Water ad 100 The following commercial products were used: INCI-Name: Aqua, Glycol Distearate, Glycerin, Laureth-4, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Formic Acid; Active substance: 40% in water; Cognis 2 INCI-Name: PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate; Cognis 3 INCI-Name: Distearoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, Cetearyl Alcohol; Active substance: 65 - 72%; Cognis 4 1-methyl-2-nortallowalkyl-3-tallow fatty acid amidoethylimidazolinium methosulfate; INCI-Name: Quaternium-27, Propylene Glycol ; Active substance: 74 - 77%; Goldschmidt-Rewo 5 trimethylhexadecylammonium chloride; INCI-Name: Aqua, Cetrimonium Chloride; Active substance: 24 - 26%; Cognis 6 INCI-Name: Polyquaternium-37, Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate PPG-1 Trideceth-6; Active substance: 50%; Ciba 7 C16-C18 fatty alcohol, ethoxylated (9 EO) 75 H 07320 PCT 8 NN,N-trimethyl-N-(C20-C22-alkyl)ammonium chloride; INCI-Name: Behentrimonium Chloride; Active substance: 77 - 83%; Clariant 9 polyacrylic acid; INCI-Name: Carbomer; 3V Sigma 10 N,N,N,N-tetrakis(2-hydroxypropyl)ethylenediamine edetol; INCI-Name: Tetrahydroxypropyl Ethylenediamine; BASF 76

Claims (22)

1. Agent, particularly for treating hair, comprising a) at least one bioquinone and c) at least one 2-furanone derivative of Formula (1) and/or Formula (II) 0 R6 R RI R 2 R 3 R4 R7 R 8 Formula (I) Formula (II) in which the groups R 1 to R 10 , independently of one another, stand for: - hydrogen, -OH, a methyl, methoxy, aminomethyl or hydroxymethyl group - -C2 - C4 saturated or singly or doubly-unsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon group, - -C2 - C 4 saturated or singly or doubly-unsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbon group, - -C2 - C4 saturated or singly or doubly-unsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or triamino hydrocarbon group, - an -OR" group, with -R 11 as a -C2 - C4 saturated or singly or doubly unsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon group, -C2 - C4 saturated or singly or doubly-unsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbon group, - an -NR 12 R 13 group, wherein R 1 2 and R 13 each independently of one another stand for hydrogen, a methyl, a -C2 - C4 saturated or singly or doubly- unsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon group, a -C2 - C4 saturated or singly or doubly- unsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di or trihydroxyhydrocarbon group, 77 H 07320 PCT - a -COOR 14 group, wherein R 14 stands for hydrogen, a methyl, a -C2 - C4 saturated or singly or doubly- unsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon group, a -C2 - C4 saturated or singly or doubly unsaturated, branched or linear mono- di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbon group, a C2 - C 4 saturated or singly or doubly-unsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or triamino hydrocarbon group, - a -CONR 5 R 16 group, wherein R 15 and R 16 each stand for hydrogen, methyl, a -C2 - C4 saturated or singly or doubly- unsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon group, a -C2 - C4 saturated singly or doubly unsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbon group, a C2 - C4 saturated or singly or doubly-unsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or triamino hydrocarbon group, - a -COR 16 group, wherein R 1 6 stands for a methyl, a -C2 - C4 saturated or singly or doubly- unsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon group, a C2 - C4 saturated or singly or doubly- unsaturated, branched or linear mono- di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbon group, a C2 - C4 saturated or singly or doubly-unsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or triamino hydrocarbon group, - an -OCORo group, wherein R' 7 stands for a methyl, a -C2 - C30 saturated or mono- or multiply unsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon group, a C2 - C30 saturated or mono- or multiply unsaturated, branched or linear mono- di-, tri- or polyhydroxyhydrocarbon group, a C2 - C30 saturated or mono or multiply unsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di-, tri- or polyamino hydrocarbon group, b) with the proviso provided in case where R 7 and R 8 stand for -OH and simultaneously, R 9 or R' 0 stands for hydrogen, then the remaining group R 9 or R 1 0 does not stand for a dihydroxyethyl group.

2. Cosmetic agent according to claim 1, comprising a 2-furanone derivative of Formula (1) and/or (II), wherein R 1 , R 2 and R 7 independently of one another can stand for: 78 H 07320 PCT - hydrogen, an -OH, a methyl, methoxy, aminomethyl, hydroxymethyl group, - a -C2 - C4 saturated or singly or doubly-unsaturated, branched or linear mono di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbon group, - a -C2 - C4 saturated or singly or doubly-unsaturated, branched or linear mono di- or triamino hydrocarbon group, - an -OR" group, with -R' 1 as a -C2 - C4 saturated or singly or doubly unsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon group, -C2 - C4 saturated or singly or doubly-unsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbon group, - a -COOR' 4 group, wherein R 1 4 stands for hydrogen, a methyl, a -C2 - C4 saturated or singly or doubly- unsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon group, a -C2 - C4 saturated or singly or doubly- unsaturated, branched or linear mono- di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbon group, a C2 - C4 saturated or singly or doubly-unsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or triamino hydrocarbon group, - a -COR 16 group, wherein R 16 stands for hydrogen, a methyl, a -C2 - C4 saturated or singly or doubly- unsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon group, a -C2 - C4 saturated or singly or doubly- unsaturated, branched or linear mono- di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbon group, a C2 - C4 saturated or singly or doubly-unsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or triamino hydrocarbon group, - an -OCOR' 7 group, wherein R 17 stands for a methyl, a -C2 - C30 saturated or singly or doubly- unsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon group, a -C2 C30 saturated or mono- or multiply unsaturated, branched or linear mono- di- tri or polyhydroxyalkyl group or a -C2 - C30 saturated or mono or multiply unsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di-, tri- or polyamino hydrocarbon group.

3. Cosmetic agent according to one of claims 1 or 2, comprising a 2-furanone derivative of Formula (I) and/or Formula (II), wherein R 3 , R 4 and Ra independently of one another can stand for: - hydrogen, an -OH, a methyl, methoxy, aminomethyl, hydroxymethyl group, 79 H 07320 PCT - -C2 - C4 saturated or singly or doubly-unsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon group, - a -C2 - C4 saturated or singly or doubly-unsaturated, branched or linear mono di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbon group or - a -C2 - C4 saturated or singly or doubly-unsaturated, branched or linear mono di- or triamino hydrocarbon group.

4. Cosmetic agent according to one of claims 1 to 3, comprising a 2-furanone derivative of Formula (1) and/or Formula (11), wherein R', R', R' and R' independently of one another can stand for: - hydrogen, an -OH, a methyl, methoxy, aminomethyl, hydroxymethyl group, - -C2 - C4 saturated or singly or doubly-unsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon group, - a -C2 - C4 saturated or singly or doubly-unsaturated, branched or linear mono di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbon group or - a -C2 - C4 saturated or singly or doubly-unsaturated, branched or linear mono di- or triamino hydrocarbon group.

5. Cosmetic agent according to one of claims 1 to 4, comprising a 2-furanone derivative of Formula (1).

6. Cosmetic agent according to claim 5, wherein R 1 and R 2 , independently of one another stand for: - hydrogen, an -OH, a methyl, methoxy, aminomethyl, hydroxymethyl group, - a -C2 - C4 saturated or singly or doubly-unsaturated, branched or linear mono di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbon group, - an -OR' group, with -R' 1 as a -C2 - C4 saturated or singly or doubly unsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon group, -C2 - C4 saturated or singly or doubly-unsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbon groups, - a -COOR' 4 group, wherein R' 4 stands for hydrogen, a methyl, a -C2 - C4 saturated or singly or doubly- unsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon 80 H 07320 PCT group, a -C2 - C4 saturated or singly or doubly- unsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbon group, - a -COR 16 group, wherein R 16 stands for a methyl, a -C2 - C 4 saturated or singly or doubly- unsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon group, a -C2 - C4 saturated or singly or doubly- unsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbon group, - an -OCOR 17 group, wherein R 17 stands for a methyl, a -C2 - C30 saturated and/or mono- or multiply unsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon group, a -C 2 - C30 saturated or mono- or multiply unsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- tri- or polyhydroxyhydrocarbon group.

7. Cosmetic agent according to one of claims 5 or 6, wherein R 3 and R 4 , independently of one another can stand for: hydrogen, an -OH, a methyl, methoxy, aminomethyl, hydroxymethyl group, - a -C2 - C4 saturated or singly or doubly-unsaturated, branched or linear mono di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbon group, - an -OR" group, with -R 11 as a -C2 - C4 saturated or singly or doubly unsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon group, -C2 - C4 saturated or singly or doubly-unsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbon groups, - a -COOR1 4 group, wherein R 1 4 stands for hydrogen, a methyl, a -C2 - C4 saturated or singly or doubly- unsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon group, a -C2 - C4 saturated singly or doubly- unsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbon group, - an -OCOR 1 7 group, wherein R 17 stands for a methyl, a -C2 - C30 saturated or mono- or multiply unsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon group, a C2 C30 saturated or mono- or multiply unsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di-, tri- or polyhydroxyhydrocarbon group.

8. Cosmetic agent according to one of claims 5 to 7, wherein R 5 and R 6 , independently of one another stand for: 81 H 07320 PCT - hydrogen, an -OH, a methyl, methoxy, aminomethyl, hydroxymethyl group, - a -C2 - C 4 saturated or singly or doubly-unsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbon group, - an -OR" group, with -R 11 as a -C2 - C 4 saturated or singly or doubly unsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon group, -C2 - C4 saturated or singly or doubly-unsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbon group.

9. Cosmetic agent according to one of claims 5 to 8, wherein the compound according to Formula (1) is dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-d imethyl-2(3H)-fu ranone.

10. Agent according to one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the bioquinone(s) is (are) selected from ubiquinone(s) and/or plastoquinone(s).

11. Agent according to claim 10, wherein the bioquinone is coenzyme Q10.

12. Agent according to one of claims 1 to 11, wherein the employed ratio of the 2-furanone derivative of Formula (1) or (11) to the bioquinone(s) is in the range between 2: 1 to 1000: 1, preferably in the range between 5: 1 to 500: 1 and particularly in the range between 10: 1 and 100: 1.

13. Agent according to one of claims 1 to 12, further comprising at least one emulsifier and/or at least one dialkyl ether and/or a mixture of these substances.

14. Agent according to one of Claims 1 to 13, wherein the emulsifier is selected from polyethylene glycol alkyl ethers and/or ethoxylated glycerol esters.

15. Agent according to claim 14, wherein the polyethylene glycol alkyl ether has an alkyl chain length of 6 to 30 C atoms, preferably 12 to 22 C atoms, and a degree of ethoxylation of 1 to 1000, preferably 1 to 500 and especially 1 to 100, and the ethoxylated glycerol ester is selected from C12-C22 fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 mole ethylene oxide on polyols containing 3 to 6 carbon atoms, especially on glycerol. 82 H 07320 PCT

16. Agent according to one of claims 1 to 15, wherein said agent is a shampoo, hair cure, hair tonic, conditioner, hair rinse, setting agent, hair spray or hair gel.

17. Use of a agent according to one of claims 1 to 16 for the activation of hair growth.

18. Use according to claim 17, wherein the release of the growth factors HGF and KGF increases, and the gene expression of a plurality of hair keratins is enhanced.

19. Use according to one of claims 17 or 18, wherein the gene expression of the hair keratins hHa4, hHa3-l, hHa2, hHb6 as well as the cytokeratins for strengthening the internal structure of human hair is enhanced.

20. Method for activating hair growth, wherein an agent according to one of claims 1 to 16 is applied onto the hair or the hairy skin.

21. Method according to claim 20, wherein the release of the growth factors HGF and KGF increases, and the gene expression of a plurality of hair keratins is enhanced.

22. Method according to one of claims 20 or 21, wherein the gene expression of the hair keratins hHa4, hHa3-1, hHa2, hHb6 as well as the cytokeratins for strengthening the internal structure of human hair is enhanced. 83