ZA200202648B

ZA200202648B - Heel lining for use in the shoe industry.

Info

Publication number: ZA200202648B
Application number: ZA200202648A
Authority: ZA
Inventors: Rudolf Wagner; Robert Groten
Original assignee: Freudenberg Carl Kg
Priority date: 1999-10-05
Filing date: 2002-04-04
Publication date: 2003-07-04
Also published as: EP1224355B1; DE19947870C1; HUP0203144A2; DE50008538D1; BR0014542A; SK4592002A3; WO2001025529A1; TR200200909T2; KR20020061601A; CN1164829C; EE200200166A; CZ20021122A3; CA2386389A1; ATE281553T1; MXPA02002723A; CN1377434A; AU769920B2; IL148851A0; BG106565A; AU6842200A

Description

99PA0138/PCT 8 SEPTEMBER 1999

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Applicant: Company Carl Freudenberg, 69469 Weinheim

Heel lining for the shoe industry

Description

The invention relates to a heel lining for the shoe industry and to a process for the manufacture thereof.

In the shoe industry particularly abrasion-resistant materials are used to line the rear part of a shoe, the so-called heel cap. These materials must on the one hand absorb the stresses that are exerted on the shoe by the foot, especially during the rolling movement in the longitudinal direction, and on the other hand they must withstand the abrasion forces that are caused in the shoe during the walking by the at least partly upward and downward moving foot. To avoid an unintentional sliding out of the shoe during the rolling movement, traditionally a rough leather or suede leather type material is used as heel lining, which by friction engagement with the foot or hosiery of the wearer prevents the sliding out of the shoe.

In addition to heel linings made of natural materials, also synthetic materials are used. These synthetic materials are needled bonded fabrics that are obtained by a dry process by carding from polyester, viscose, polyamide, popypropylene fibres or mixtures of these fibres. To this end

SWORN TRANSLATOR

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The invention relates to a heel lining for the shoe industry and to a process for the manufacture thereof. in the shoe industry particularly abrasion-resistant materisis are used to line the ress part of a shoe, the so-called heel cap. These materials must on the I one hand absorb the stresses that are exerted on the shoe by the foot, especially during the rolling movement in the longitudinal direction, and on Li the other hand they must withstand the abrasion forces that are caused in : the shoe during walking by the at least partly upward and downward moving foot. To avoid unintentional sliding out of the shoe during the rolling movement, traditionally a rough leather - or suede leather - type material is used as heel lining, which by frictional engagement with the foot or hosiery of the wearer prevents sliding out of the shoe.

In addition to heel linings made of natural materials, also synthetic materials : are used. These synthetic materials are needled bonded fabrics obtained by a dry process by carding from polyester, viscose, polyamide, popypropylene fibres or mixtures of these fibres. To this end fibrous webs with a mass per unit area of up to 800 g/m? are used, which are mechanically compacted by intensive needling. This process step by itself is already very time-consuming and, therefore, relatively cost-intensive. It is normally followed by a shrinking of the needled bonded fabric by means of hot air or steam, which leads to a compacting of the material as well as a further strengthening with a view to obtaining the thickness desired for the intended use. To obtain the necessary strength parameters such as the tearing-in and tear-propagation resistance of the needled bonded fabric, it is impregnated with a heat-coagulable latex binding agent dispersion, e.g. styrene-butadiene-rubber (SBR) or nitrile- butadiene-rubber (NBR), followed by drying. The latex portion amounts to approx. 30 to 60% by mass of the impregnated bonded fabric mass. The material prepared in this manner is split into two to four thinner layers. This

3 2002/2648 ° splitting process was taken over for bonded fabrics from the leather industry so as to increase the productivity of bonded fabric manufacture. To make the surface uniform and improve the optical finish, the split products can still be ground and polished. Subsequently a fusion or fusible adhesive is applied to one of the two sides in order to simplify the further processing.

Disadvantageous of the synthetic hes! linings used until now are especially 3 the greatly varying strength values in the longitudinal and the transverse direction, the loss of strength due to the splitting of the fibre bundle which due to the needling is arranged vertically, as well as the irregularities of the individual layers related to the going in and out of the needles. ;

It is the object of the invention to provide a heel lining for the shoe industry, which at mass per unit area of 180 to 350 g/m? has tearing-in and tear- propagation strengths in the longitudinal as well as the transverse direction of > 15 N.

A further object of the invention is to provide a process, which is particularly : suitable for manufacturing such a heel lining.

According to the invention, there is provided a heel lining which comprises a bonded fabric impregnated with a polymer, the bonded fabric having a mass per unit area of 180 to 350 g/m? and a tear-propagation strength in the longitudinal as well as the transverse direction of > 15 N, wherein the bonded fabric comprises melt-spun, aerodynamically stretched multi- component endless filaments with a titre of < 2 dtex, directly arranged in a web, and after pre-compacting, the multi-component endless filaments being split up to at least 90% into super-micro endless filaments with a titre of < 0,2 dtex and compacted. These heel linings have high tensile strengths and abrasion resistances at low mass per unit area.

Preferably, the heel lining is one where each multi-component endless filament is a bicomponent endless filament of two incompatible polymers,

oo ® especially a polyester and a polyamide. As a result thereof the multi- } component endless filament has a good splittability and a favourable ratio of strength to mass per unit area.

Preferably, the heel lining is ons where the polyester portion in the multi- BE component endiess filament is greater than the polyamide portion, sspecially 14 in the range of the mass ratio of polyester portion to polyamide portion of bi 1,1: 1 to 3: 1. As a result thereof the heel linings have a very good textile : feel and good ageing resistance.

Particularly preferred is a heel lining where the multi-component endless filaments have a cross-section with orange-like multi-segment structure, : wherein the segments each contain alternately one of the two incompatible polymers. e

Preferably, the heel lining is one where the bonded fabric formed from the multi-component endless filaments is pre-calendered for pre-compacting purposes. As a result thereof the thickness of the material is very uniform.

Particularly preferred furthermore is a heel lining where at least one of the incompatible polymers forming the multi-component endless filament contains an additive, such as colouring pigments, permanently acting anti- static agents and/or additives that influence the hydrophilic or hydrophobic properties, in quantities of up to 15% by mass. As a result thereof the heel lining can be positively influenced with regard to its light-fastness, the tendency to accumulate static charges, the perspiration transport and the moisture accumulation effect. Furthermore, the adding of colouring pigments

Lg to the spinning compound permits the manufacture of deeper and abrasion- resistant colours.

Particularly preferred furthermore is a heel lining where the multi-component endless filament is not crimped, since as a result thereof the textile feel

Particularly preferred according to the invention is a heel lining in which the : bonded fabric is impregnated with 20 to 50 percent by mass of a polymer, relative to the initial mass of the bonded fabric. At comparable degrees of impregnation, the heel lining has superior strength properties compared to known synthetic heel lining materials.

Advantageously, the heel lining in one where one of the sides is provided with a fusion adhesive. Such a material is particularly suitable for further processing on automatic machines.

A process is provided according to the invention for the manufacture of a heel lining in which multi-component endless filaments are spun from the melt, aerodynamically stretched and directly arranged in a web, pre- compacting takes place by pre-calendering or needling and the bonded fabric is compacted by high pressure liquid jets and at the same time split into super-micro endless filaments with a titre of < 0,2 dtex, followed by impregnating with a polymer. The products obtained in this manner are very uniform with regard to their strength seeing that to a large extent an isotropic thread distribution is present in the product. The products do not have a h tendency to delaminate and have high modulus values as well as tearing-in : and tear-propagation strengths. high-pressure water jets, alternately from both sides. This type of compacting and splitting of the multi-component endless filaments leads to very dense EE bonded fabrics with smooth surfaces.

Preferably the compacting and splitting of the multi-component endless filament is carried out on an apparatus with rotating screen drums. This type of apparatus permits the construction of very compact plants.

It is particularly preferred to carry out the impregnation of the bonded fabric, which has mainly been split into super-micro endless filaments and compacted, with an aqueous polyurethane- or NBR-latex dispersion. This avoids solvent residues and the impregnation with a polymer is carried out in a particularly environmentally friendly manner.

Preferably, the impregnated material is still subjected to an after-treatment by grinding or buffing. By these measures the surface quality and feel of the so-obtained material can be improved further. Due to the micro-filaments contained in the structure, this results in a particularly fine and excellent nubuk-like surface, which is very similar to that of natural leather.

. I 7

From multi-component endless filaments consisting of 65% by mass poly(ethylene terephthalate) and 35% by mass poly(hexamethylene adipamide) a fibrous web with a mass per unit area of approx. 160 g/m’ is : produced. The initial filaments have a titre of approx. 1,8 dtex and consist ; of 16 segments, wherein polyester and polyamide segments alternate around ¢ a central axis in the manner of orange segments. The meit-spun multi- i component endless filaments are aerodynamically stretched and deposited ] irregularly on a belt. The fibrous web obtained in this manner is fed to a pre- | J calendering at temperatures of approx. 95°C and a pressure of approx. 100 bar. After a mechanical pre-compacting by needling, a water-jet treatment is : carried out at approx. 100 bar water pressure. Thereupon the splitting of the multi-component endless filaments into super-micro endless filaments with a titre of approx. 0,1 dtex takes place and compacting of the bonded fabric with the aid of high-pressure water jets. The treatment takes place twice : each from both sides at water pressures of 250 to 300 bar and on screen plates with 60 to 100 mesh size. Subsequently the fabric is dried and : subjected to impregnation with polymer with the aid of a dry-in-wet treatment with NBR-latex. Approx. 125% by mass NBR relative to the initial mass of the bonded fabric is applied and fixed by drying at 180°C. After surface-grinding, a heel lining with a mass per unit area of 260 g/m2 and a thickness of 0,75 mm is obtained.

Comparison example

A bonded fabric is produced from polyester and polypropylene staple fibres by intensive needling and impregnated with NBR. By splitting, a heel lining with a mass per unit area of 320 g/m2 and a thickness of 0,85 mm is obtained.

A comparison of the strength values and abrasion resistance is summarised x, 8 ® in the following Table 1. The abrasion resistance was determined by : clamping a test-piece with 90 mm diameter in a rotary clamping head and applying a rubbing pressure of 2,8 N/cm?. The angle of rotation of the clamping head was 50 degrees.

The test-piece was tested against a rubbing element with a surface with diamond shapes.

The test-piece is wetted with E water and made to move to and fro, a rubbing cycle consisting of 300 to and § fro movements, followed by a visual evaluation based on a marking

TABLE 1 example

CT

CT ear-propagation streng N 0 longitudinally

Tear-propagation strength 21 10 transversely

Abrasion (as per WN 3147/1) 1,0-1,5

Claims

1. A heel lining for the shoe industry comprises a bonded fabric impregnated with a polymer, the bonded fabric having a mass per unit area of 180 to 350 g/m? and a tear-propagation strength in the longitudinal as well as ths transverse direction of > 15 N, wherein the component endless filaments with a titre of < 2 dtex, directly arranged in a web, snd after pre-compacting, the multi-component endless filaments being split up to at least 90% into super-micro endless filaments with a titre of < 0,2 dtex and compacted.

2. A heel lining according to claim 1, wherein each muiti-component endless filament is a bicomponent endless filament of two incompatible polymers, especially a polyester and a polyamide.

3. A heel lining according to claim 2, wherein the polyester portion in the multi-component endless filament is greater than the polyamide portion.

4. A heel lining according to claim 3, wherein the mass ratio of the polyester portion to the polyamide portion in the multi-component endless filament is 1,1:1 to 3:1.

5. A heel lining according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the multi- component endless filaments have a cross-section with orange-like multi-segment structure, wherein the segments each contain alternately one of the two incompatible polymers.

6. A heel lining according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the bonded fabric formed from the multi-component endless filaments is pre- calendered for pre-compacting purposes.

LE 11

7. A heel lining according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein at least one of the incompatible polymers forming the multi-component endless filament contains an additive, such as colouring pigments, permanently acting anti-static agents and/or additives that influence the hydrophilic or hydrophobic properties, in quantities of up to 15% by mass.

8. A heel lining according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the muiti- ey

9. A heel lining according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the bonded : fabric is impregnated with 20 to 50% by mass of the polymer, relative to the initial mass of the bonded fabric.

10. A heel lining according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterised in that a high-quality nubuk-like surface is obtained after grinding, caused by micro-filament ends exposed at the surface.

11. A heel lining according to any one of claims 1 to 10, wherein one of the sides is provided with a fusion adhesive.

12. A process for the manufacture of a heel lining according to any one of claims 1 to 11, characterised in that the multi-component endless filaments are spun from the melt, aerodynamically stretched and directly arranged in a web, pre-compacting takes place by pre-calendering or needling, and the bonded fabric is compacted by high pressure liquid jets and at the same time split into super-micro endless filaments with a titre of < 0,2 dtex, followed by impregnating with the polymer.

13. A process according to claim 12, characterised in that the compacting and splitting of the multi-component endless filaments takes place by the pre-compacted bonded fabric being acted upon several times by high-pressure liquid jets, alternately from both sides.

14. A process according to claim 13, characterised in that the compacting and splitting of the multi-component endless filament is carried out on an apparatus with rotating screen drums.

15. A process according to any one of claims 12 to 14, characterised in that the impregnating with the polymer is carried out with an aqueous

16. A process according to any one of claims 12 to 15, characterised in that its after-treatment is carried out by grinding or buffing.

17. A lining according to claim 1, substantially as herein described and illustrated. -

18. A process according to claim 12, substantially as herein described and + illustrated. -

19. A new heel lining, or a new process for the manufacture of a heel lining, substantially as herein described. AMENDED SHEET