WO2024184209A1 - Personal care compositions comprising xanthan gum and hydroxypropyl starch - Google Patents

Personal care compositions comprising xanthan gum and hydroxypropyl starch Download PDF

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WO2024184209A1
WO2024184209A1 PCT/EP2024/055322 EP2024055322W WO2024184209A1 WO 2024184209 A1 WO2024184209 A1 WO 2024184209A1 EP 2024055322 W EP2024055322 W EP 2024055322W WO 2024184209 A1 WO2024184209 A1 WO 2024184209A1
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composition
total weight
relative
fatty acid
compositions
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PCT/EP2024/055322
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French (fr)
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Natalia CHUDINOVA
Marc Beuche
Michal STEPULAK
Sarah TRIDOT
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Basf Se
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A61K8/375Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/46Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
    • A61K8/466Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur containing sulfonic acid derivatives; Salts
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/64Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/732Starch; Amylose; Amylopectin; Derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/10Washing or bathing preparations
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02Preparations for cleaning the hair

Definitions

  • Personal Care Compositions comprising Xanthan Gum and Hydroxypropyl Starch
  • the present invention relates to personal care compositions including hair and skin cleaning and care compositions that comprise both hydroxypropyl starch (phosphate) and xanthan gum in specific amounts and ratios as rheology modifiers to thicken and texturize said compositions. Further encompassed are the use of xanthan gum to stabilize and/or synergistically increase viscosity of compositions that contain hydroxypropyl starch (phosphate) or the use of hydroxypropyl starch (phosphate) to texturize and/or synergistically increase viscosity of xanthan gum-containing compositions as well as related methods.
  • phosphate hydroxypropyl starch
  • xanthan gum to stabilize and/or synergistically increase viscosity of compositions that contain hydroxypropyl starch (phosphate) or the use of hydroxypropyl starch (phosphate) to texturize and/or synergistically increase viscosity of xanthan gum-containing compositions as well as related methods.
  • Cosmetic and personal care compositions containing substantial amounts of water typically comprise one or more thickeners or rheology modifiers. These serve the purpose to ensure a sufficiently high viscosity and to provide for the texture and usability expected by the consumers. To ensure that these compositions have an aesthetically pleasing appearance and texture under various conditions, a variety of thickeners and rheology modifiers are used, the amounts and ratios of which need to be carefully balanced to provide for the desired properties.
  • the present invention is therefore directed to a personal care composition, comprising:
  • the present invention is directed to the use of xanthan gum to stabilize and/or (synergistically) increase the viscosity of a personal care composition containing hydroxypropyl starch (phosphate) or salt thereof.
  • the present invention relates to the use of hydroxypropyl starch (phosphate) or salt thereof to texturize and/or (synergistically) increase the viscosity of a personal care composition containing xanthan gum.
  • the present invention is directed to a method for (synergistically) increasing the viscosity and/or improving the texture of a personal care composition, the method comprising:
  • a personal care base composition comprising water in an amount of at least 60 % by weight, preferably 60 to 90 wt.-%, relative to the total weight of the composition;
  • At least one relates to 1 , 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, ,9 or more. If used herein in relation to any component, said term refers to the number of chemically different entities that fall under the definition of said component, but not to the total number of molecules. “At least one surfactant”, for example, thus means that at least one type of specific surfactant is included, but that also two or more different types of surfactants may be present in the composition.
  • At least one of a surfactant and an emollient means that only one of the two types of compounds needs to be present, i.e. either at least one surfactant or at least one emollient. However, it also covers embodiments in which both types of compounds are present.
  • Numeric values specified herein without decimal places refer to the full value specified with one decimal place if not stated otherwise. For example, “60 %” means 60.0 %, if not stated otherwise.
  • Numeric ranges specified in the format “(in/from) x to y” include the values specified. If several preferred ranges are given in this format, all ranges resulting from the different possible combinations of the different endpoints are also intended to be encompassed by the present invention.
  • Free of may mean that the respective component is not purposively added and thus only present in minor amounts, for example in form of impurities or degradation products. In various embodiments, “free of” thus means that the respective compound or group of compounds is present in amounts less than 0.5 wt.-%, less than 0.1 wt.-%, or less than 0.01 wt.-%, relative to the total weight of the composition. In some embodiments, this may mean that the respective compound is not detectable in a given composition by commonly applied measurements.
  • fatty acids and “fatty alcohols” relate to linear or branched carboxylic acids or alcohols with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, for example 8 to 20 carbon atoms.
  • alkyl or “alkenyl” herein, these terms mean in principle any alkyl or alkenyl radical that may be linear or branched and has 1 to 30 carbon atoms. In various embodiments, these alkyl or alkenyl radicals may have preferred lengths of 3 to 26 carbon atoms, or 4 to 24 or 6 to 22 or 8 to 20 carbon atoms.
  • the term “rheology modifier” is understood to mean substances that alter the deformation and flow properties of material.
  • This term includes organic or inorganic compounds, usually macromolecules, which alter the intermolecular forces through formation of cohesion (intramolecular) or adhesion (intermolecular) in such a way that the viscosity of the coherent phase of the formulation is preferably increased.
  • counterions for anions are typically metal ions, such alkaline metal ions, in particular sodium or potassium, or alkaline earth metal ions, such as magnesium or calcium ions.
  • Counterions for cations include anions selected from halogen ions, such as chloride, as well as sulfate, phosphate and the like.
  • the present invention is based on the inventors’ surprising finding that the combined use of xanthan gum and hydroxypropyl starch phosphate can overcome some of the issues observed if using only one of them. For example, it has been observed that if xanthan gum alone is used as a rheology modifier, the viscosity is increased, but the composition shows an unappealing jelly- like texture and not the desired smooth, homogeneous texture. On the other hand, if hydroxypropyl starch phosphate alone is used for viscosity adjustment, the formulation is not stable and phase separation occurs. The combined use of the two compounds overcomes both issues in that the resulting compositions are stable and also show a smooth texture. Surprisingly, it was also found that the two compounds, if used in combination, have a higher than additive effect (synergy) on viscosity increase. This can, for example, be seen in Figure 1.
  • the present invention is thus directed to personal care compositions that include both, xanthan gum and hydroxypropyl starch phosphate as rheology modifying agents, as well as the use of xanthan gum to stabilize and/or texturize and/or (synergistically) increase the viscosity of hydroxypropyl starch phosphate containing compositions. It also covers the use of hydroxypropyl starch phosphate to texturize and/or (synergistically) increase the viscosity of xanthan gum containing compositions. Also encompassed are the respective methods to stabilize and/or texturize and/or (synergistically) increase the viscosity of said compositions by use of xanthan gum and hydroxypropyl starch phosphate.
  • the present invention relates to personal care compositions that comprise:
  • Personal care composition relate to all compositions known to the person skilled in the art which are exclusively or primarily intended to be used externally on the human body or in its oral cavity for cleaning, care, protection, maintaining a good condition, perfuming, changing the appearance or for the purposes of influencing body odor.
  • the personal care compositions may be cosmetic compositions, with these two terms being used interchangeably herein.
  • Said compositions include formulations for body care, face care, skin care, hand care and hair care as well as decorative cosmetics e.g. a body milk, creams, lotions, aftershave lotions, products for eliminating body odor such as deodorants and antiperspirants, make-up removers, conditioners, and styling products.
  • formulations typically containing surfactants such as e.g. foam and shower baths, hair shampoos and care rinses.
  • the personal care compositions of the present invention can be any of the above. Preferably, they are selected from shower gels, hair shampoos, foam and showers baths, skin care creams, in particular hand care creams, and body lotions.
  • the composition is a rinse off composition. This includes, without limitation, shower gels, shampoos, hair conditioners, foam baths and the like.
  • compositions of the invention are aqueous compositions, i.e. contain substantial amounts of water.
  • the water content of the compositions is at least 60 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the compositions may comprise at least 61 , 62, 63, 64, 65, 66, 67, 68, 69, 70, 71 , 72, 73, 74, 75, 76, 77, 78, 79 or 80 wt.-% water.
  • the water content can be as high as 95 wt.-%, preferably up to 94, 93, 92, 91 , 90, 89, 88, 87, 86, 85, 84, 83, 82, or 81 wt.-%. In some embodiments the water content is in the range of from 65 to 90 wt.-% or 65 to 85 wt.-%, for example 65 to 80 wt.% or 67 to 75 wt.-%.
  • the aqueous compositions may also be in form of emulsions, for example O/W emulsions.
  • the compositions typically comprise 5 to 30 wt.-% surfactants.
  • the compositions have a homogenous appearance or may be single phase compositions. If the compositions are in form of emulsions, the dispersed phase is preferably homogenously distributed in the continuous phase so that there is no visible phase separation.
  • compositions of the invention comprise hydroxypropyl starch or a phosphate derivative thereof as ingredient (A).
  • Hydroxypropyl starch HPS is a starch derivative falling within the group of starch ethers. It can be obtained from renewable raw materials, such as corn, potato or other plant or crop-derived starch, by reaction with propylene oxide.
  • the starch is mainly amylopectin, the compound is thus also referred to as hydroxypropyl amylopectin.
  • Hydroxypropyl starch has the CAS No. 9049-76-7.
  • hydroxypropyl starch may be used as such, in various embodiments it is preferred to use its phosphate derivative: hydroxypropyl starch phosphate (CAS 53124-00-8/39346-84-4/113894- 92-1).
  • Hydroxypropyl starch phosphate is a naturally derived starch derivative that is known for its use in cosmetic compositions, as it provides for a viscosity increase, stabilizes emulsions and reduces the greasiness of compositions and delivers a smooth, thick feeling.
  • corresponding salts of such starch phosphate derivatives in particular the sodium salts, such as the sodium salt of hydroxypropyl starch phosphate. If reference to “hydroxypropyl starch phosphate” is made herein, this always also includes the corresponding salts, in particular the sodium salt.
  • hydroxypropyl starch (phosphate) covers both hydroxypropyl starch and hydroxypropyl starch phosphate as well as the salts thereof.
  • hydroxypropyl starch phosphate is used in the compositions of the invention.
  • the hydroxypropyl starch (phosphate) may have any degree of substitution and all commercially available grades are usable in the compositions of the invention.
  • the hydroxypropyl starch (phosphate) may be cross-linked or non-crosslinked.
  • compositions of the present invention comprise the hydroxypropyl starch (phosphate) or salt thereof in a total amount of 0.2 to 5 wt.-%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount can be at least 0.3, 0.4 or 0.5 wt.-%.
  • the amount can be at least 2.0, 2.5 or 3.0 wt.-%.
  • the amount used can be up to 5 wt.-%, up to 4.5 wt.-%, up to 4.0 wt.-%, up to 3.5 wt.-% or less than 3.5 wt.-%.
  • the amount can thus for example range from 2 to 4 wt.-%, for example 2.5 to 3.5 wt.-% or 2.5 to less than 3.5 wt.-%. In other embodiments, the amounts range from 0.5 to 0.8 wt.-%, for example 0.55 to 0.70 wt.-%. In various embodiments, the amount can be about 3.0 wt.-%, for example in rinse-off formulations and cream formulations. In other embodiments, the amount can be about 0.6 wt.-%, for example in body lotion formulations.
  • hydroxypropyl starch phosphate
  • salts thereof for example in case mixtures of hydroxypropyl starch and hydroxypropyl starch phosphate (salt) are used.
  • compositions of the invention include xanthan gum as the second mandatory ingredient (B).
  • Xanthan gum (CAS No. 11138-66-2) is a natural polysaccharide obtainable from sugar-containing substrates by use of bacteria of the order Xanthomonas.
  • the backbone of xanthan gum is usually made from beta-(1-4)-linked D-glucose units, with every other glucose unit linked by an alpha-(1- 3)-glycosidic bond to side chains comprising (partially acetyled) mannose and glucuronic acid units, with about 50% of the terminal mannose units forming a ketal with pyruvic acid.
  • the molecular weight of xanthan gum is typically high, for example in the range of 200.000 to 2.000.000 Da.
  • Xanthan gum is widely used as a natural thickener in food and cosmetic applications and commercially available from a variety of sources and as such well-known to those skilled in the art.
  • compositions of the present invention comprise the xanthan gum in a total amount of 0.05 to less than 0.5 wt.-%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the total amount is at least 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09 or 0.1 wt.-%.
  • the amount can be up to 0.45, 0.40, 0.39, 0.38, 0.37, 0.36, 0.35, 0.4, 0.33, 0.32, 0.31 , or 0.30 wt.-%.
  • the amounts thus range from 0.05 to 0.45 wt.-% or 0.05 to 0.40 or 0.1 to 0.4 or 0.1 to 0.3 wt.-%.
  • the amount used is about 0.3 wt.-% or about 0.1 wt.-%, depending on the formulation in which it is used, with concentrations of 0.3 wt.-% for example used in rinse-off and body lotion products and concentrations of 0.1 wt.-% for example being used in skin care cream compositions.
  • Hydroxypropyl starch (phosphate) and xanthan gum are used in weight ratios of 1 :1 to 50:1 , i.e. they are either used in equal amounts or the starch is used in excess relative to the xanthan.
  • the starch is used in excess so that the ratio is greater than 1 :1 , for example at least 2:1 , 3:1 , 4:1 , 5:1 , 6:1 , 7:1 , 8:1 , 9:1 or 10:1.
  • the ratio is up to 40:1 or up to 35:1 , up to 30:1 or up to 25:1 or up to 20:1 or up to 15:1.
  • the ratio may range from 2:1 to 20:1 , for example 2:1 to 15:1 or 3:1 to 10:1.
  • the weight ratio is about 2:1 , about 10:1 or about 30:1 , depending on the type of formulation. In rinse- off formulations, for example in shampoo or shower gel formulations, it may be about 10:1 , in skin care formulations, for example, about 30:1 and in body lotion formulations, for example, about 2:1.
  • Suitable surfactants include all those generally used in the field of cosmetic and personal care compositions and known to those skilled in the art.
  • the surfactants used may be anionic, nonionic, cationic, and/or amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants.
  • surfactant-containing compositions for example shower gels, foam baths, shampoos etc. at least one anionic surfactant is preferably present.
  • the anionic surfactant can be combined with another type of surfactant, typically with the exception of cationic surfactants, in particular nonionic or zwitterionic/ampholytic surfactants.
  • more than one surfactant of any type may be included, for example 2, 3, 4, 5 or more different (types of) surfactants.
  • Alkyl (ether) sulfates and “fatty alcohol (ether) sulfates”, as used herein, relate to the well-known class of anionic surfactants of sulfated fatty alcohols and sulfated fatty alcohol ethers, in particular the ethoxylated, propoxylated or mixed ethoxylated/propoxylated ethers of fatty alcohols.
  • surfactants thus include sodium lauryl ether sulfate (SLES) and sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS or SDS). As disclosed herein below, it is preferred that these are only used in low amounts or the compositions are free of such surfactants.
  • Typical examples of usable nonionic surfactants are fatty alcohol polyglycol ethers, alkylphenol polyglycol ethers, fatty acid polyglycol esters, fatty acid amide polyglycol ethers, fatty amine polyglycol ethers, alkoxylated triglycerides, mixed ethers and mixed formals, optionally partially oxidized alk(en)yl (poly)glycosides and glucuronic acid derivatives, fatty acid N-alkylglucamides, protein hydrolysates (especially wheat-based vegetable products), polyol fatty acid esters, sugar esters, sorbitan esters, polysorbates and amine oxides. If the nonionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, they may have a conventional homolog distribution, but preferably have a narrow homolog distribution.
  • Zwitterionic surfactants refer to those surface-active compounds which bear at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO(-) or -SO3(-) group in the molecule.
  • Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the betaines, such as the N-alkyl-N,N- dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyl dimethylammonium glycinate, N- acylaminopropyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylamino- propyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazoline having in each case 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group, and also cocoacylaminoethyl hydroxyethylcarboxymethyl glycinate.
  • ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropyhglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2- alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids having in each case about 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group.
  • Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N- cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethyl-aminopropionate and C12-18-acylsarcosine.
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are alkylbetaines, alkylamidobetaines, aminopropionates, aminoglycinates, imidazolinium betaines and sulfobetaines.
  • anionic surfactants are soaps, alkylbenzenesulfonates, alkanesulfonates, olefin-sulfonates, alkyl ether sulfonates, glycerol ether sulfonates, a-methyl ester sulfonates, sulfo fatty acids, mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinates, mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinamates, sulfotriglycerides, amide soaps, ethercarboxylic acids and salts thereof, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, N-acylamino acids, for example acyl lactylates, acyl tartrates, acyl glutamates and acyl aspartates, alkyl oligoglucoside sulfates, protein fatty acid condensates (especially vegetable products based on wheat)
  • compositions may contain alkyl (ether) sulfates, including fatty alcohol (ether) sulfates, it is preferred that these are only present in low amounts of less than 2 wt.-%, such as 1 wt.-% or lower, or more preferred completely absent.
  • the rinse-off compositions disclosed herein are preferably free of such alkyl (ether)sulfates.
  • Cationic surfactants which can be used are especially quaternary ammonium compounds.
  • ammonium halides especially chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, e.g. cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride.
  • the very readily biodegradable quaternary ester compounds for example the dialkylammonium methosulfates and methylhydroxyalkyldialkyloxyalkylammonium methosulfates sold under the trade name Stepantex® and the corresponding products of the Dehyquart® series can also be used as cationic surfactants.
  • ester quats are generally understood to mean quaternized fatty acid triethanolamine ester salts. These are known substances which are prepared by the relevant methods of organic chemistry.
  • Further cationic surfactants which can be used in accordance with the invention are the quaternized protein hydrolysates.
  • Typical examples of particularly suitable mild, i.e. particularly skin-friendly, surfactants are mono- and/or dialkyl sulfosuccinates, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, fatty acid glutamates, a-olefinsulfonates, ether carboxylic acids, 2-sulfonated fatty acids, alkyl (poly)glycosides/-glucosides and/or mixtures thereof with alkyl oligoglucoside carboxylates, fatty acid glucamides, alkylamidobetaines, amphoacetals, protein hydrolysates, and/or protein fatty acid condensates, the latter preferably based on wheat proteins or salts thereof.
  • These surfactants are preferred surfactants to be used in the compositions of the invention. In the compositions of the invention, these may be used individually or in combination.
  • Preferred surfactants are also generally those that are obtainable from renewable raw materials and are readily biodegradable.
  • Alk(en)yl (poly)glycosides may be compounds of formula (I),
  • APG as used herein, thus is intended to cover both alkyl and alkenyl (poly)glycosides.
  • APGs of the form claimed here can be obtained by the relevant methods of preparative organic chemistry.
  • the APGs can be derived from aldoses or ketoses with 5 or 6 carbon atoms. While various sugar units may be used, in various embodiments, the sugar units of the APGs are derived from glucose.
  • the degree of oligomerization of the APGs is between 1 and 10 and preferably between 1 and 6.
  • p in an individual APG molecule must always be an integer and here in particular assumes the values in the range from 1 to 6, the value p for an APG which is a mixture of different APG molecules, which differ in their individual p values, is an analytically determined calculated parameter which in most cases is a fraction.
  • APGs are used with an average degree of oligomerization p in the range from 1.1 to 3.0 or from 1.1 to 1.8 or from 1.2 to 1.7.
  • the average degree of oligomerization here is to be understood in the sense of how it is defined in the monograph K. Hill, W. von Rybinski, G. Stoll “Alkyl Polyglycosides. Technology, Properties and Applications” (VCH-Verlagsgesellschft, 1996) in the section “Degree of polymerization” (compare pages 11-12 of the book): there it reads “The average number of glycose units linked to an alcohol group is described as the (average) degree of polymerization (DP).” In explanatory figure 2, which describes a typical distribution of dodecyl glycoside oligomers of an AOPG with a degree of DP of 1.3, the average degree of DP is also described by a corresponding mathematical formula.
  • the radical R 1 is preferably derived from primary alcohols with 4 to 12 carbon atoms and preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms.
  • suitable radicals R 1 are butyl, hexyl, octyl, decyl, undecyl, dodecyl and myristyl.
  • APGs which are derived from glucose and in which the radical R 1 is a saturated alkyl radical with 8 to 12 carbon atoms and which have an average degree of oligomerization in the range from 1.1 to 3 and in particular in the range from 1.2 to 1.8 and particularly preferably in the range from 1.2 to 1.7.
  • These APGs can for example be prepared by reacting a sugar, in particular glucose, under acid catalysis with a fatty alcohol mixture, the fatty acid mixture used preferably being a forerunning produced during the distillative separation of technical-grade C 8.18 -coconut fatty alcohol, which comprises predominantly octanol-1 and decanol-1 and also small amounts of dodecanol-1.
  • Suitable 2-sulfonated fatty acids include, without limitation, 2-sulfolaurate and salts thereof, in particular disodium 2-sulfolaurate.
  • the compositions of the invention include at least one surfactant.
  • the at least one surfactant may be present in amounts of from 1 to 30 wt.-%, preferably 2 to 25 wt.-% or 5 to 25 wt.-% or 8 to 30 wt.-% or 10 to 25 wt.-% or 15 to 25 wt.-%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the at least one surfactant is present in amounts of 5 to 20 or 10 to 15 wt.-%.
  • Such surfactant-containing compositions may, in various embodiments, be the rinse-off compositions described herein.
  • At least one anionic surfactant is preferably present, preferably in combination with at least one nonionic or zwitterionic surfactant.
  • the at least one anionic surfactant and the at least one nonionic surfactant may be selected from the surfactants indicated as being preferred above.
  • the anionic surfactant may be a 2-sulfonated fatty acid, such as 2- sulfolaurate, and the nonionic surfactant may be an APG.
  • the anionic surfactant may alternative be a sulfosuccinate or fatty acid glutamate and the nonionic/zwitterionic surfactant may be an alkylamidobetaine.
  • compositions comprise at least one emollient.
  • emollient is understood to mean substances that make the skin soft and supple, especially by supplying the skin with lipids or reducing evaporation or increasing the moisture content of the skin.
  • Suitable emollients are substances from the group of the oils, fats, waxes, hydrocarbons and/or organosilicon compounds that are liquid at room temperature or have a melting point ⁇ 70°C.
  • Emollients present in the base mixture may be oils, fats and/or waxes, for example from the group formed by esters, wax esters, waxes, triglycerides or partial glycerides, natural vegetable oils or fats, hydrocarbons, organosilicon compounds, Guerbet alcohols, mono-/dialkylethers, mono- /dialkyl carbonates, and mixtures thereof.
  • esters that may be present include, but are not limited to, those of linear fatty acids with linear or branched fatty alcohols, esters of linear fatty alcohols with linear or branched carboxylic acids, esters of alkyl hydroxycarboxylic acids with linear or branched fatty alcohols, esters of linear or branched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols such as diols or trimer triol, wax esters, triglycerides or partial glycerides (called mono-/di-/triglyceride esters), esters of fatty alcohols and/or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids, esters of dicarboxylic acids with linear or branched alcohols, natural vegetable oils or fats and mixtures thereof.
  • Suitable examples from the group of esters of linear C6-C22 fatty acids with linear or branched C6-C22 fatty alcohols or esters of branched C6-C22 carboxylic acids with linear or branched 06- 022 fatty alcohols are myristyl myristate (commercially available as Cetiol® MM), myristyl isostearate, myristyl oleate, myristyl erucate, cetyl isostearate, cetyl oleate, cetyl erucate, stearyl myristate, stearyl isostearate, stearyl oleate, stearyl erucate, isostearyl myristate, isostearyl palmitate, isostearyl stearate, isostearyl isostearate, isostearyl oleate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, oleyl myristate, o
  • esters of alkyl hydroxy carboxylic acids with linear or branched C6-C22 fatty alcohols preferably esters of lactic acid such as lauryl lactate.
  • esters of dicarboxylic acids and linear or branched alcohols preferably esters of malic acid, adipic acid and/or sebacic acid, such as dibutyl adipate, dioctyl malate and/or diisopropyl sebacate.
  • esters of linear and/or branched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols such as propylene glycol, dimer diol or trimer triol
  • polyhydric alcohols such as propylene glycol, dimer diol or trimer triol
  • propylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate commercially available as Myritol® PGDC
  • triglycerides based on C6-C10 fatty acids liquid monoglycerides, diglycerides or mono-/di-/triglyceride mixtures based on C6-C18 fatty acids (commercially available as Myritol® 331 , Myritol® 312, Myritol® 318)
  • esters of C6-C22 fatty alcohols and/or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids especially benzoic acid, esters of benzoic acid with linear and/or branched C6-C22 alcohols (e.g. commercially available as Finsolv® TN, Cetiol®
  • vegetable, fats and oils are groundnut oil, soybean oil, jojoba oil, rapeseed oil, hemp seed oil, avocado oil, argan oil, castor oil, sunflower oil, palm oil, palm kernel oil, linseed oil, almond oil, wheat germ oil, macadamia nut oil, olive oil, sesame oil, cocoa butter and shea butter, for example commercially available as Cegesoft® PFO, Cegesoft® PS 6, Cegesoft® SBE, Cegesoft® SH, Cegesoft® VP or Cetiol® SB 45.
  • emollient are, for example, natural vegetable waxes such as fruit waxes (for example orange waxes) and animal waxes such as wool wax.
  • emollient are C12-C15 fatty alcohols that are usually obtained from natural fats, oils and waxes, such as lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol or 1-pentadecanol.
  • emollients are organosilicon compounds, which are frequently referred to simply as silicones. They may take the form of cyclic, branched or linear silicones. Silicones are high molecular weight synthetic polymeric compounds in which silicon atoms are joined via oxygen atoms in a chain-like and/or grid-like manner and the remaining valences of silicon are satisfied by hydrocarbon radicals (usually methyl, more rarely ethyl, propyl, phenyl groups etc.). Systematically, the silicones are referred to as polyorganosiloxanes.
  • Advantageous polyorganosiloxanes are, for example, the methyl-substituted polyorganosiloxanes. They are also referred to as Polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) or Dimethicone (INCI). Dimethicones come in various chain lengths and with various molecular weights. They are available, for example, under the Abil® 350 trade name from Evonik or Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone Fluid trade name from Dow Chemicals.
  • PDMS Polydimethylsiloxane
  • ICI Dimethicone
  • Dimethicones come in various chain lengths and with various molecular weights. They are available, for example, under the Abil® 350 trade name from Evonik or Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone Fluid trade name from Dow Chemicals.
  • phenylmethylpolysiloxane (INCI: Phenyl Dimethicone, Phenyl Trimethicone), cyclic silicones (e.g. decamethylcyclopentasiloxane or dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane), which are also referred to in accordance with INCI as cyclomethicone, amino-modified silicones (INCI: Amodimethicone) and silicone waxes, e.g.
  • polysiloxane-polyalkylene copolymers (INCI: Stearyl Dimethicone and Cetyl Dimethicone) and dialkoxydimethylpolysiloxanes (Stearoxy Dimethicone and Behenoxy Stearyl Dimethicone), which are available as various Abil wax grades from Evonik. Silicones which are particularly preferred are dimethicone, amodimethicone and cyclomethicone.
  • emollients are mono- and/or dialkyl carbonates of linear or branched C6-C22 fatty alcohols, such as dicaprylyl carbonate (commercially available as Cetiol® CC) or dipropylheptyl carbonate (commercially available as Cetiol® 4AII), Guerbet carbonates based on fatty alcohols having 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10, carbon atoms, linear or branched, symmetrical or asymmetrical dialkyl ethers having 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, for example dicaprylyl ether (commercially available as Cetiol® OE).
  • dicaprylyl carbonate commercially available as Cetiol® CC
  • dipropylheptyl carbonate commercially available as Cetiol® 4AII
  • emollients are hydrocarbons such as mineral oils, paraffinum liquidum, undecane/tridecane (commercially available as Cetiol® Ultimate), hydrogenated polyisobutene (Luvitol® Lite), substituted cyclohexanes, isoparaffins or paraffins as well as C9-C12 alkanes.
  • Suitable Guerbet alcohols are those based on fatty alcohols having 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10, carbon atoms (commercially available as Eutanol® G, Eutanol® G 16).
  • the compositions of the invention include at least one emollient.
  • the at least one emollient may be present in amounts of from 1 to 30 wt.-%, preferably 2 to 25 wt.-% or 5 to 25 wt.-% or 8 to 30 wt.-% or 10 to 25 wt.-% or 15 to 25 wt.-%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the at least one emollient is used in amounts of 5 to 20 or 8 to 15 wt.-%.
  • emollient-containing compositions for example skin care creams, including face care and hand care creams, and body creams and lotions, typically at least one, preferably two or more of the above emollients are included.
  • Particularly preferred emollients in the compositions of the invention include, but are not limited to, symmetrical or asymmetrical dialkyl ethers having 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, for example dicaprylyl ether, hydrogenated glycerides, for example hydrogenated vegetable glycerides, mono glycerides, such as glyceryl oleate, liquid mono-/di-/triglyceride mixtures based on C6-C18 fatty acids, and esters of linear C6-C22 fatty acids with isopropanol or linear or branched C6-C22 fatty alcohols, for example isopropyl palmitate, ethylhexyl stearate, coco- caprylate/caprate, and combinations thereof.
  • hydrogenated glycerides for example hydrogenated vegetable glycerides, mono glycerides, such as glyceryl oleate, liquid mono-/di-/triglyceride mixtures
  • the composition may be free of emollients and vice versa.
  • both at least one surfactant and at least one emollient may be used in the same composition.
  • the amounts given for the surfactant or the emollient herein may refer to the total amount of surfactants and emollients in the composition.
  • compositions of the invention can comprise a series of further auxiliaries and additives, such as, for example, preservatives, dyes, coloring agents, pigments, fragrances, humectants, emulsifiers, opacifiers, pearlescent agents, buffering and pH adjustment agents, conditioning agents and antioxidants.
  • auxiliaries and additives such as, for example, preservatives, dyes, coloring agents, pigments, fragrances, humectants, emulsifiers, opacifiers, pearlescent agents, buffering and pH adjustment agents, conditioning agents and antioxidants.
  • Suitable compounds are commercially available and well-known to those skilled in the art.
  • Suitable humectants include sorbitol, glycerol, propylene glycol, xylitol, liquid polyethylene glycol and mixtures thereof. If used in the compositions, the weight ratio of water to humectant is preferably at least 10:1 and up to 30:1 , with the total amount of humectant ranging from 2 to 8 wt.-%, relative to the total weight of the composition, for example 3 to 7 or 4 to 6 wt.- %.
  • the compositions may comprise polyquaternium-10 (quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose) as a conditioning agent.
  • the compositions are preferably rinse-off formulations, such as shower gels, shampoos and bath foams.
  • compositions of the invention comprise cationic guar gum, preferably guar hydroxypropyltrimonium salt, typically the chloride salt.
  • Guar gum is a galactomannan polysaccharide extracted from guar beans that is known for its thickening and stabilizing properties useful in food applications.
  • Cationic guar (gum) is obtained by quaternization of guar gum, the most common cationic guar being guar hydroxypropyltrimonium. It is typically used in form of its salt, in particular the chloride salt.
  • compositions of the invention may optionally contain cationic guar in an amount of 0.01 to 1.0 wt.-%, preferably 0.2 to 0.6 wt.-%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the compositions are preferably rinse-off formulations, such as shower gels, shampoos and bath foams.
  • compositions of the invention are free of (poly)acrylate thickeners or, preferably, generally free of polyacrylates, including acrylate copolymers.
  • the compositions of the invention are generally free of synthetic polymeric thickeners.
  • the compositions do not contain any thickeners or rheology modifying agents other than xanthan gum and hydroxypropyl starch (phosphate).
  • thickeners and rheology modifiers preferably refer to compounds only added for the purpose to increase or adjust viscosity and rheology and which do not function as other components of the composition, such as surfactants, emollients or any of the other auxiliary substances listed above.
  • compositions of the invention are also free of organic UV filters selected from (hydroxy)benzophenones, ethylhexyl triazone, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, octocrylene, and ethylhexyl salicylate.
  • the compositions of the invention are also free of organic UV filters selected from (hydroxy)benzophenones, triazines, triazones, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, octocrylene, homosalate and ethylhexyl salicylate.
  • the personal care compositions of the invention are not sunscreens.
  • compositions of the invention are also free of fluorinated organic compounds, more preferably free of halogenated organic compounds. This relates to organic compounds that have fluorine or any other halogen bonded by a covalent bond, but does not extend to halogen salts (halides).
  • compositions of the invention are preferably also free of alkyl (ether) sulfate surfactants or contain those only in small amounts of less than 2 wt.-%, preferably 1 wt.-% or less.
  • compositions of the invention are preferably also free of oxidizing agents, such as those used in hair dyes, in particular hydrogen peroxide or hydrogen peroxide generating compounds.
  • oxidizing agents such as those used in hair dyes, in particular hydrogen peroxide or hydrogen peroxide generating compounds.
  • the compositions of the invention are not hair dyes.
  • compositions of the present invention may be based, in various embodiments, predominantly on components derived from renewable raw materials. In various embodiments this may mean that more than 50 wt.-%, preferably more than 60, more than 70, more than 80 or more than 90 wt.-% of the components of the composition other than water are derived from renewable raw materials. It may be preferred that all non-water components are derived from renewable raw materials. Said renewable materials include, but are not limited to, plant-based materials. It may be preferred that less than 10 wt.-%, more preferably none of the non-water components of the compositions are derived from fossil sources or fossil fuels.
  • compositions of the present invention may be based, in various embodiments, predominantly on components that are biodegradable. In various embodiments this may mean that more than 50 wt.-%, preferably more than 60, more than 70, more than 80 or more than 90 wt.-% of the components of the composition besides water are biodegradable. It may be preferred that all non- water components are biodegradable.
  • the biodegradability is preferably determined according to OECD 301 F or OECD 302 C (MITI-II test), with ..biodegradable” components preferably having a biodegradability of at least 40%, preferably 60% determined according to OECD 301 F and/or at least 20%, preferably at least 40% according to OECD 302 C.
  • compositions of the invention preferably have a pH at 20°C in the range of 3.5 to 7.0, preferably 4.0 to 6.5. more preferably 4.5 to 6.5, for example 4.8 to 5.2 or 6.0. to 6.2.
  • the pH value may be determined directly or, preferably, as a 1 % solution or dispersion in deionized water.
  • the viscosity of the compositions is preferably at least 2.000 mPa.s (determined at 20°C in a Brookfield DV-I+, Spindle 4, 10 rpm) and may be as high as 50.000 mPa.s (determined at 20°C in a Brookfield DV-I+, Spindle TC, Helipath, 10 rpm).
  • the composition is a hair shampoo composition.
  • Such hair shampoo compositions may comprise, in various embodiments, 10 to 30 wt.-% surfactants, preferably 15 to 25 wt.-% surfactants.
  • These surfactants preferably include at least one anionic surfactant and/or are preferably selected from the preferred skin-friendly surfactants listed above, namely mono- and/or dialkyl sulfosuccinates, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, fatty acid glutamates, a-olefinsulfonates, ether carboxylic acids, 2-sulfonated fatty acids, alkyl (poly)glycosides/-glucosides and/or mixtures thereof with alkyl oligoglucoside carboxylates, fatty acid glucamides, alkylamidobetaines, amphoacetals, protein hydrolysates, and/or protein fatty acid condensates,
  • the anionic surfactant is selected from mono- and/or dialkyl sulfosuccinates, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, fatty acid glutamates, a-olefinsulfonates, ether carboxylic acids, and 2-sulfonated fatty acids, preferably 2- sulfonated fatty acids, such as 2-sulfolaurate.
  • At least one nonionic and/or zwitterionic/amphoteric surfactant may be included, such as APGs, in particular alkyl(poly)glyucosides, or alkylamidobetaines or protein hydrolysates.
  • the anionic surfactant if present, can be present in amounts of from 5 to 20 wt.-%.
  • the nonionic and/or zwitterionic/amphoteric surfactant may also be present in amounts of from 5 to 20 wt.-%.
  • the total amount of surfactants is however defined by the above preferred range of 10 to 30 wt.- %.
  • Such hair shampoo compositions may further comprise at least one conditioning agent.
  • a suitable conditioning agent includes cationic guar, as defined above, which can, in various embodiments, be included in amounts of 0.01 to 1 .0 wt.-%, preferably 0.2 to 0.6 wt.-%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the conditioning agent may also have surfactant properties and may, for example, be a protein hydrolysate, such as wheat protein hydrolysate.
  • commonly used conditioners may be included, such as organosilicones, such as dimethicone, amodimethicone and cyclomethicone.
  • Such hair conditioners also include other compounds listed as emollients above. For example, also PQ-10 may be used as such (hair) conditioning agent.
  • such hair conditioning agents may be present in amounts of from 0.2 to 5.0 wt.-%, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably 0.5 to 3.0 wt.-%, or 1 .0 to 2.5 wt.-%.
  • the hair shampoo composition typically further comprises preservatives and fragrances (perfumes), but may additionally include further auxiliaries as listed above, such as colorants and opacifiers or pearlescent agents. These are usually used in minor amounts of less than 1 wt.-% each, and may, in various embodiments, add up to a total weight portion of up to 5 wt.-% or up to 10 wt.-%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • Such shampoo compositions may have viscosities of at least 2.000 mPa.s, preferably 2.000 to 20.000 mPa.s or 3.000 to 17.000 mPa.s (determined at 20°C in a Brookfield DV-I+, Spindle 4, 10 rpm).
  • the composition is a skin care composition, for example a hand cream.
  • the composition comprises 8 to 20 wt.-% of emollients, preferably 10 to 15 wt.-%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • emollients are preferably selected from those indicated above as being preferred for the compositions of the invention, namely symmetrical or asymmetrical dialkyl ethers having 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, for example dicaprylyl ether, hydrogenated glycerides, for example hydrogenated vegetable glycerides, mono glycerides, such as glyceryl oleate, liquid mono-/di-/triglyceride mixtures based on C6-C18 fatty acids, and esters of linear C6-C22 fatty acids with isopropanol or linear or branched C6-C22 fatty alcohols, for example isopropyl palmitate, ethylhexyl stearate, and coco- caprylate/caprate.
  • the skin care composition comprises one or more of isopropyl palmitate, ethylhexyl stearate, coco-caprylate/caprate, and hydrogenated vegetable glycerides. In various embodiments, the composition comprises two, three, or all four of these compounds. In various embodiments, the skin care composition further comprises a humectant, such as glycerol. The humectant may be present in amounts of 2 to 10 wt.-%, for example 3 to 7 or about 5 wt.-%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the skin care composition further comprises one or more (co-)emulsifiers, such as cetylstearyl alcohol (INCI cetearyl alcohol). These may be present in amounts of from 1 to 5 wt.-%, such as 1.5 to 4 wt.-%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • one or more (co-)emulsifiers such as cetylstearyl alcohol (INCI cetearyl alcohol). These may be present in amounts of from 1 to 5 wt.-%, such as 1.5 to 4 wt.-%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the skin care composition may comprise further ingredients, such as preservatives and fragrances but may also include further auxiliaries as listed above, such as colorants and opacifiers or pearlescent agents. These are usually used in minor amounts of less than 1 wt.-% each, and may, in various embodiments, add up to a total weight portion of up to 5 wt.-% or up to 10 wt.-%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • Such skin care compositions may have viscosities of at least 20.000 mPa.s, preferably 25.000 to 50.000 mPa.s or 30.000 to 40.000 mPa.s (determined at 20°C in a Brookfield DV-I+, Spindle TC, Helipath, 10 rpm).
  • the composition is a body lotion.
  • it may comprise 5 to 20 wt.-% emollients, preferably 6 to 15 wt.-% or 7 to 13 wt.-%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • emollients are preferably selected from those indicated above as being preferred for the compositions of the invention, namely symmetrical or asymmetrical dialkyl ethers having 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, for example dicaprylyl ether, hydrogenated glycerides, for example hydrogenated vegetable glycerides, mono glycerides, such as glyceryl oleate, liquid mono-/di-/triglyceride mixtures based on C6-C18 fatty acids, and esters of linear C6-C22 fatty acids with isopropanol or linear or branched C6-C22 fatty alcohols, for example isopropyl palmitate, ethylhexyl stearate, and coco-caprylate/caprate.
  • hydrogenated glycerides for example hydrogenated vegetable glycerides, mono glycerides, such as glyceryl oleate, liquid mono-/di-/triglyceride mixtures
  • the skin care composition comprises one or more of dicaprylyl ether, cocoglycerides (liquid mono-/di-/triglyceride mixtures based on C6-C18 fatty acids), coco- caprylate/caprate, cetyl palmitate, and hemp seed oil.
  • the composition comprises two, three, four or all five of these compounds.
  • the body lotion composition further comprises a humectant, such as glycerol.
  • a humectant such as glycerol.
  • the humectant may be present in amounts of 2 to 10 wt.-%, for example 3 to 7 or about 5-6 wt.-%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the skin care composition further comprises one or more (co-)emulsifiers, such as cetylstearyl alcohol (INCI cetearyl alcohol). These may be present in amounts of from 1 to 5 wt.-%, such as 1.5 to 4 wt.-%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • one or more (co-)emulsifiers such as cetylstearyl alcohol (INCI cetearyl alcohol). These may be present in amounts of from 1 to 5 wt.-%, such as 1.5 to 4 wt.-%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the body lotion composition may also comprise one or more surfactants, typically in low amounts of less than 2 wt.-% or less than 1 wt.-%. Suitable surfactants include, without limitation, fatty acid glutamates, such as stearoyl glutamate. In some embodiments, the body lotion may also comprise low amounts of alkyl sulfate surfactants, such as cetearyl sulfate. Such low amounts mean about 1 wt.-% or less.
  • the body lotion composition may comprise further ingredients, such as preservatives, antioxidants and fragrances and, additionally and optionally, further auxiliaries as listed above, such as colorants and opacifiers or pearlescent agents. These are usually used in minor amounts of less than 1 wt.-% each, and may, in various embodiments, add up to a total weight portion of up to 5 wt.-%.
  • Such body lotion compositions may have viscosities of at least 10.000 mPa.s, preferably 15.000 to 25.000 mPa.s (determined at 20°C in a Brookfield DV-I+, Spindle TB, Helipath, 10 rpm).
  • compositions of the invention may have the composition as set forth in any one of Tables 1-3 as set forth in the examples below.
  • the present invention features the use of hydroxypropyl starch (phosphate) or salt thereof to texturize a personal care composition that contains xanthan gum.
  • Textturize relates to the property to advantageously influence texture and flow properties of a given composition to achieve the texture attributes desired by consumers.
  • these include a smooth and uniform feel.
  • hydroxypropyl starch (phosphate) and xanthan gum a jelly- like texture observed for compositions containing only xanthan can be avoided without compromising the desired viscosity.
  • Texturizing agents are known mainly from food applications and play a key role in adding high value to innovative food preparations. They are added to food to modify the overall texture and cause a change in the mouthfeel of the food, as well as its appearance.
  • xanthan gum and hydroxypropyl starch (phosphate) is used for the same purpose, namely to provide for a desired feel and appearance of the composition.
  • Hydroxypropyl starch may also be used to (synergistically) increase the viscosity of xanthan gum-containing compositions.
  • “Synergistically”, as used in this context, means that the viscosity increase is higher than the mere additive values of the respective components. This effect is for example derivable from the results shown in Figure 1.
  • xanthan gum may be used to (synergistically) increase the viscosity of compositions containing hydroxypropyl starch (phosphate).
  • Xanthan gum may however also be used to stabilize compositions containing hydroxypropyl starch (phosphate).
  • Stabilize as used in this context, means that it can be used to avoid instability of a given composition that may manifest in phase separation or demixing, as has been observed for compositions containing hydroxypropyl starch phosphate without xanthan gum herein, as reported in the examples.
  • compositions may be the personal care compositions described in more detail above. Specifically, it is understood that all embodiments disclosed above in relation to the compositions of the invention are similarly applicable to the uses.
  • the hydroxypropyl starch phosphate is used in amounts of 0.2 to 5.0 wt.-% relative to the total weight of the composition; and/or the xanthan gum is used in amounts of 0.05 to less than 0.5 wt.-% relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • compositions used typically contain water in an amount of at least 60 wt.-%, preferably 65 to 90 wt.-%, relative to the total weight of the composition and preferably comprises at least one of a surfactant and an emollient.
  • compositions are preferably rinse-off compositions and/or a hair or skin care composition, preferably a hair shampoo or shower gel, a body lotion or a hand cream.
  • the invention relates to a method for (synergistically) increasing the viscosity and/or improving the texture of a personal care composition, said method comprising
  • a personal care base composition comprising water in an amount of at least 60 % by weight, preferably 60 to 90 wt.-%;
  • the personal care base composition may already comprise at least one of a surfactant and an emollient and optionally also one or more of the additional components and auxiliaries disclosed herein above.
  • Example 1 Formulations Table 1: Baby Shampoo
  • the shampoo formulation had a pH value at 20°C of 5.0.
  • the viscosity (as determined by Brookfield; RVDV-II+; spindle 4, 10 rpm, 20°C) was 3.090 mPa.s.
  • the hand care cream formulation had a pH value at 20°C of 6.0-6.2.
  • the viscosity (as determined by Brookfield; DV-I+; spindle TC, Helipath, 10 rpm, 20°C) was 30.000-35.000 mPa.s.
  • the body lotion formulation had a pH value at 20°C of 6.0.
  • the viscosity (as determined by Brookfield; DV-I+; spindle TB, Helipath, 10 rpm, 20°C) was 15.000-20.000 mPa.s.
  • Verbicce® Xanthan xanthan gum
  • Cosmedia® HP Starch hydroxypropyl starch phosphate
  • the shampoo composition according to Example 1 was tested together with modified shampoo compositions in which the Xanthan gum concentration was 0.1 or 0.5 wt.-% instead, with the remaining components being identical.
  • Compositions with only xanthan gum at 0.1 , 0.3, 0.5 and 1.0 wt.-% and without hydroxypropyl starch (phosphate) and only hydroxypropyl starch phosphate at 3.0 wt.-% without xanthan gum were used as a reference.
  • the formulation with only xanthan gum at 1 wt.-% had a viscosity of 3.880 mPa.s but showed a jelly-like texture (not smooth).
  • xanthan gum added to the formulation containing hydroxypropyl starch phosphate helped to stabilize the formulation. No phase separation was observed. Further, the combination of xanthan gum and hydroxypropyl starch phosphate resulted in a synergy regarding viscosity increase and improved texture. At high amounts of xanthan gum, namely 0.5 wt.-%, the composition (also containing 3 wt.-% hydroxypropyl starch phosphate) again showed a jelly-like texture and not the desired smooth texture.
  • compositions according to the invention containing 3 wt.-% hydroxypropyl starch phosphate and 0.1 or 0.3 wt.-% xanthan gum good viscosities and smooth textures were obtained, with the formulation including 0.3 wt.-% xanthan gum having the more desirable higher viscosity.

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Abstract

The present invention relates to personal care compositions as defined herein that comprise both hydroxypropyl starch (phosphate) and xanthan gum in specific amounts and ratios as rheology modifiers to thicken and texturize said compositions. Further encompassed are related uses and methods.

Description

Personal Care Compositions comprising Xanthan Gum and Hydroxypropyl Starch
Field of the Invention
The present invention relates to personal care compositions including hair and skin cleaning and care compositions that comprise both hydroxypropyl starch (phosphate) and xanthan gum in specific amounts and ratios as rheology modifiers to thicken and texturize said compositions. Further encompassed are the use of xanthan gum to stabilize and/or synergistically increase viscosity of compositions that contain hydroxypropyl starch (phosphate) or the use of hydroxypropyl starch (phosphate) to texturize and/or synergistically increase viscosity of xanthan gum-containing compositions as well as related methods.
Background of the Invention
Cosmetic and personal care compositions containing substantial amounts of water typically comprise one or more thickeners or rheology modifiers. These serve the purpose to ensure a sufficiently high viscosity and to provide for the texture and usability expected by the consumers. To ensure that these compositions have an aesthetically pleasing appearance and texture under various conditions, a variety of thickeners and rheology modifiers are used, the amounts and ratios of which need to be carefully balanced to provide for the desired properties.
To date, many of the existing products on the market use synthetic polymeric thickeners, for example polyacrylates. While these provide for good stabilization and allow fine control of rheological properties, there is a general trend and demand for more natural components that are made from renewable resources and have good biodegradability. While various compounds that can be used for such purposes and meet these requirements are known and used in the field, many of them suffer from lower performance compared to the commonly used synthetic compounds. Furthermore, they are often more susceptible to various environmental influences that lead to degradation and break-down and thus negatively impact composition appearance and texture.
There is thus still need in the art for rheology modifying systems that on the one hand provide good performance in that they provide for good viscosity control, preferably also in relatively low amounts to save material and costs, and on the other hand meet the demand for environmentally friendly and sustainable materials that are obtainable from renewable sources and readily biodegradable.
Summary of the Invention
The present invention provides a rheology modifier system that meets this need. The inventors have surprisingly found that a combination of hydroxypropyl starch phosphate and xanthan gum can advantageously be used to control rheology in a variety of personal care compositions, such as hair shampoos, shower gels, skin care creams and body lotions, while providing for a smooth and aesthetically pleasing texture.
In a first aspect, the present invention is therefore directed to a personal care composition, comprising:
(A) hydroxypropyl starch (phosphate) or salt thereof in an amount of 0.2 to 5.0 wt.-%, relative to the total weight of the composition;
(B) xanthan gum in amount of 0.05 to less than 0.5 wt.-%, preferably 0.05 to 0.45 wt.-%, relative to the total weight of the composition;
(C) water in an amount of at least 60 % by weight, preferably 65 to 90 wt.-%; wherein the weight ratio of (A) to (B) is in the range of 1 :1 to 50:1 , preferably 2:1 to 30:1 ; wherein the composition further comprises at least one of a surfactant and an emollient; and wherein the composition is free of fluorinated organic compounds, polyacrylate thickeners, and organic UV filter compounds selected from the group of (hydroxy)benzophenones, ethylhexyl triazone, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, octocrylene, and ethylhexyl salicylate.
In another aspect the present invention is directed to the use of xanthan gum to stabilize and/or (synergistically) increase the viscosity of a personal care composition containing hydroxypropyl starch (phosphate) or salt thereof.
In still another aspect, the present invention relates to the use of hydroxypropyl starch (phosphate) or salt thereof to texturize and/or (synergistically) increase the viscosity of a personal care composition containing xanthan gum.
In a still further aspect, the present invention is directed to a method for (synergistically) increasing the viscosity and/or improving the texture of a personal care composition, the method comprising:
(1) providing a personal care base composition comprising water in an amount of at least 60 % by weight, preferably 60 to 90 wt.-%, relative to the total weight of the composition; and
(2) adding either concomitantly or subsequently xanthan gum in an amount of 0.05 to less than 0.5 wt.-% relative to the total weight of the composition, and hydroxypropyl starch (phosphate) or salt thereof in an amount of 0.2 to 5.0 wt.-% relative to the total weight of the composition to the personal care base composition.
Detailed Description
The term “at least one”, as used herein, relates to 1 , 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, ,9 or more. If used herein in relation to any component, said term refers to the number of chemically different entities that fall under the definition of said component, but not to the total number of molecules. “At least one surfactant”, for example, thus means that at least one type of specific surfactant is included, but that also two or more different types of surfactants may be present in the composition.
“At least one of a surfactant and an emollient”, as used herein, means that only one of the two types of compounds needs to be present, i.e. either at least one surfactant or at least one emollient. However, it also covers embodiments in which both types of compounds are present.
Numeric values specified herein without decimal places refer to the full value specified with one decimal place if not stated otherwise. For example, “60 %” means 60.0 %, if not stated otherwise.
All percentages given herein relate to % by weight if not explicitly indicated otherwise. The value always relates to the total weight of the composition if not indicated otherwise.
The expression “about”, if used herein in relation to a numerical value, means said value ±10%, typically ±5%.
Numeric ranges specified in the format “(in/from) x to y” include the values specified. If several preferred ranges are given in this format, all ranges resulting from the different possible combinations of the different endpoints are also intended to be encompassed by the present invention.
“Free of”, as used herein, may mean that the respective component is not purposively added and thus only present in minor amounts, for example in form of impurities or degradation products. In various embodiments, “free of” thus means that the respective compound or group of compounds is present in amounts less than 0.5 wt.-%, less than 0.1 wt.-%, or less than 0.01 wt.-%, relative to the total weight of the composition. In some embodiments, this may mean that the respective compound is not detectable in a given composition by commonly applied measurements.
All parameters of a composition referred to herein, such as pH, viscosity, etc. are given under standard conditions, i.e. at 20°C and standard pressure (1 atm, 101.325 kPa), if not explicitly indicated otherwise.
In the context of the present invention, “fatty acids” and “fatty alcohols” relate to linear or branched carboxylic acids or alcohols with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, for example 8 to 20 carbon atoms. If reference is made to “alkyl” or “alkenyl” herein, these terms mean in principle any alkyl or alkenyl radical that may be linear or branched and has 1 to 30 carbon atoms. In various embodiments, these alkyl or alkenyl radicals may have preferred lengths of 3 to 26 carbon atoms, or 4 to 24 or 6 to 22 or 8 to 20 carbon atoms. In the context of the present invention, the term “rheology modifier” is understood to mean substances that alter the deformation and flow properties of material. This term includes organic or inorganic compounds, usually macromolecules, which alter the intermolecular forces through formation of cohesion (intramolecular) or adhesion (intermolecular) in such a way that the viscosity of the coherent phase of the formulation is preferably increased.
If reference is made to charged compounds, it is understood that these may be used in the corresponding salt form and may thus include a common counterion for said charged entity. The counterions for anions are typically metal ions, such alkaline metal ions, in particular sodium or potassium, or alkaline earth metal ions, such as magnesium or calcium ions. Counterions for cations include anions selected from halogen ions, such as chloride, as well as sulfate, phosphate and the like.
These and other aspects, features, embodiments, and advantages of the invention become apparent to the skilled person from the following detailed description and claims. Each feature or embodiment from one aspect of the invention similarly applies to any other aspect, if not explicitly indicated otherwise. For example, this means that all aspects and embodiments disclosed herein in relation to the compositions similarly apply to the claimed uses and methods and vice versa. Furthermore, the examples provided are intended to illustrate but not limit the invention.
The present invention is based on the inventors’ surprising finding that the combined use of xanthan gum and hydroxypropyl starch phosphate can overcome some of the issues observed if using only one of them. For example, it has been observed that if xanthan gum alone is used as a rheology modifier, the viscosity is increased, but the composition shows an unappealing jelly- like texture and not the desired smooth, homogeneous texture. On the other hand, if hydroxypropyl starch phosphate alone is used for viscosity adjustment, the formulation is not stable and phase separation occurs. The combined use of the two compounds overcomes both issues in that the resulting compositions are stable and also show a smooth texture. Surprisingly, it was also found that the two compounds, if used in combination, have a higher than additive effect (synergy) on viscosity increase. This can, for example, be seen in Figure 1.
The present invention is thus directed to personal care compositions that include both, xanthan gum and hydroxypropyl starch phosphate as rheology modifying agents, as well as the use of xanthan gum to stabilize and/or texturize and/or (synergistically) increase the viscosity of hydroxypropyl starch phosphate containing compositions. It also covers the use of hydroxypropyl starch phosphate to texturize and/or (synergistically) increase the viscosity of xanthan gum containing compositions. Also encompassed are the respective methods to stabilize and/or texturize and/or (synergistically) increase the viscosity of said compositions by use of xanthan gum and hydroxypropyl starch phosphate.
Personal Care Compositions
The present invention relates to personal care compositions that comprise:
(A) hydroxypropyl starch (phosphate) or salt thereof in a total amount of 0.2 to 5.0 wt.-%, relative to the total weight of the composition;
(B) xanthan gum in amount of 0.05 to less than 0.5 wt.-%, preferably 0.05 to 0.45 wt.-%, relative to the total weight of the composition;
(C) water in an amount of at least 60 % by weight, preferably 65 to 90 wt.-%; wherein the weight ratio of (A) to (B) is in the range of 1 :1 to 50:1 , preferably 2:1 to 30:1 ; wherein the composition further comprises at least one of a surfactant and an emollient, and wherein the composition is free of fluorinated organic compounds, polyacrylate thickeners, and organic UV filter compounds selected from the group of (hydroxy)benzophenones, ethylhexyl triazone, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, octocrylene, and ethylhexyl salicylate.
“Personal care composition”, as used herein, relate to all compositions known to the person skilled in the art which are exclusively or primarily intended to be used externally on the human body or in its oral cavity for cleaning, care, protection, maintaining a good condition, perfuming, changing the appearance or for the purposes of influencing body odor. The personal care compositions may be cosmetic compositions, with these two terms being used interchangeably herein. Said compositions include formulations for body care, face care, skin care, hand care and hair care as well as decorative cosmetics e.g. a body milk, creams, lotions, aftershave lotions, products for eliminating body odor such as deodorants and antiperspirants, make-up removers, conditioners, and styling products. Also included are formulations typically containing surfactants, such as e.g. foam and shower baths, hair shampoos and care rinses. The personal care compositions of the present invention can be any of the above. Preferably, they are selected from shower gels, hair shampoos, foam and showers baths, skin care creams, in particular hand care creams, and body lotions. In various embodiments, the composition is a rinse off composition. This includes, without limitation, shower gels, shampoos, hair conditioners, foam baths and the like.
The personal care compositions of the invention are aqueous compositions, i.e. contain substantial amounts of water. The water content of the compositions is at least 60 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In various embodiments, the compositions may comprise at least 61 , 62, 63, 64, 65, 66, 67, 68, 69, 70, 71 , 72, 73, 74, 75, 76, 77, 78, 79 or 80 wt.-% water. In various embodiments the water content can be as high as 95 wt.-%, preferably up to 94, 93, 92, 91 , 90, 89, 88, 87, 86, 85, 84, 83, 82, or 81 wt.-%. In some embodiments the water content is in the range of from 65 to 90 wt.-% or 65 to 85 wt.-%, for example 65 to 80 wt.% or 67 to 75 wt.-%.
The aqueous compositions may also be in form of emulsions, for example O/W emulsions. In such emulsion embodiments, the compositions typically comprise 5 to 30 wt.-% surfactants. In various embodiments, the compositions have a homogenous appearance or may be single phase compositions. If the compositions are in form of emulsions, the dispersed phase is preferably homogenously distributed in the continuous phase so that there is no visible phase separation.
Hydroxypropyl starch
The compositions of the invention comprise hydroxypropyl starch or a phosphate derivative thereof as ingredient (A). Hydroxypropyl starch (HPS) is a starch derivative falling within the group of starch ethers. It can be obtained from renewable raw materials, such as corn, potato or other plant or crop-derived starch, by reaction with propylene oxide. In typical embodiments, the starch is mainly amylopectin, the compound is thus also referred to as hydroxypropyl amylopectin. Hydroxypropyl starch has the CAS No. 9049-76-7.
While hydroxypropyl starch may be used as such, in various embodiments it is preferred to use its phosphate derivative: hydroxypropyl starch phosphate (CAS 53124-00-8/39346-84-4/113894- 92-1). Hydroxypropyl starch phosphate is a naturally derived starch derivative that is known for its use in cosmetic compositions, as it provides for a viscosity increase, stabilizes emulsions and reduces the greasiness of compositions and delivers a smooth, thick feeling.
Also included in the scope of the invention are the corresponding salts of such starch phosphate derivatives, in particular the sodium salts, such as the sodium salt of hydroxypropyl starch phosphate. If reference to “hydroxypropyl starch phosphate” is made herein, this always also includes the corresponding salts, in particular the sodium salt.
The term “hydroxypropyl starch (phosphate)”, as used herein, covers both hydroxypropyl starch and hydroxypropyl starch phosphate as well as the salts thereof. In preferred embodiments, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate is used in the compositions of the invention.
The hydroxypropyl starch (phosphate) may have any degree of substitution and all commercially available grades are usable in the compositions of the invention. The hydroxypropyl starch (phosphate) may be cross-linked or non-crosslinked.
Suitable hydroxypropyl starches are available from various commercial manufacturers and known to those skilled in the art. The compositions of the present invention comprise the hydroxypropyl starch (phosphate) or salt thereof in a total amount of 0.2 to 5 wt.-%, relative to the total weight of the composition. In various embodiments, the amount can be at least 0.3, 0.4 or 0.5 wt.-%. In other embodiments, the amount can be at least 2.0, 2.5 or 3.0 wt.-%. The amount used can be up to 5 wt.-%, up to 4.5 wt.-%, up to 4.0 wt.-%, up to 3.5 wt.-% or less than 3.5 wt.-%. The amount can thus for example range from 2 to 4 wt.-%, for example 2.5 to 3.5 wt.-% or 2.5 to less than 3.5 wt.-%. In other embodiments, the amounts range from 0.5 to 0.8 wt.-%, for example 0.55 to 0.70 wt.-%. In various embodiments, the amount can be about 3.0 wt.-%, for example in rinse-off formulations and cream formulations. In other embodiments, the amount can be about 0.6 wt.-%, for example in body lotion formulations.
These amounts all relate to the total amount of hydroxypropyl starch (phosphate) and salts thereof, for example in case mixtures of hydroxypropyl starch and hydroxypropyl starch phosphate (salt) are used.
Xanthan gum
The compositions of the invention include xanthan gum as the second mandatory ingredient (B). Xanthan gum (CAS No. 11138-66-2) is a natural polysaccharide obtainable from sugar-containing substrates by use of bacteria of the order Xanthomonas. The backbone of xanthan gum is usually made from beta-(1-4)-linked D-glucose units, with every other glucose unit linked by an alpha-(1- 3)-glycosidic bond to side chains comprising (partially acetyled) mannose and glucuronic acid units, with about 50% of the terminal mannose units forming a ketal with pyruvic acid. The molecular weight of xanthan gum is typically high, for example in the range of 200.000 to 2.000.000 Da.
Xanthan gum is widely used as a natural thickener in food and cosmetic applications and commercially available from a variety of sources and as such well-known to those skilled in the art.
The compositions of the present invention comprise the xanthan gum in a total amount of 0.05 to less than 0.5 wt.-%, relative to the total weight of the composition. In various embodiments, the total amount is at least 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09 or 0.1 wt.-%. In various amounts the amount can be up to 0.45, 0.40, 0.39, 0.38, 0.37, 0.36, 0.35, 0.4, 0.33, 0.32, 0.31 , or 0.30 wt.-%. In various embodiments, the amounts thus range from 0.05 to 0.45 wt.-% or 0.05 to 0.40 or 0.1 to 0.4 or 0.1 to 0.3 wt.-%. In some embodiments, the amount used is about 0.3 wt.-% or about 0.1 wt.-%, depending on the formulation in which it is used, with concentrations of 0.3 wt.-% for example used in rinse-off and body lotion products and concentrations of 0.1 wt.-% for example being used in skin care cream compositions. Hydroxypropyl starch (phosphate) and xanthan gum are used in weight ratios of 1 :1 to 50:1 , i.e. they are either used in equal amounts or the starch is used in excess relative to the xanthan. In various embodiments, it is preferred that the starch is used in excess so that the ratio is greater than 1 :1 , for example at least 2:1 , 3:1 , 4:1 , 5:1 , 6:1 , 7:1 , 8:1 , 9:1 or 10:1. In various embodiments the ratio is up to 40:1 or up to 35:1 , up to 30:1 or up to 25:1 or up to 20:1 or up to 15:1. The ratio may range from 2:1 to 20:1 , for example 2:1 to 15:1 or 3:1 to 10:1. In some embodiments, the weight ratio is about 2:1 , about 10:1 or about 30:1 , depending on the type of formulation. In rinse- off formulations, for example in shampoo or shower gel formulations, it may be about 10:1 , in skin care formulations, for example, about 30:1 and in body lotion formulations, for example, about 2:1.
Surfactants
In one embodiment of the invention, the compositions comprise at least one surfactant.
Surfactants are amphiphilic substances which can dissolve organic, nonpolar substances in water. They cause, as a result of their specific molecular structure with at least one hydrophilic and a hydrophobic molecular moiety, a lowering of the surface tension of the water, the wetting of the skin, the facilitation of soil removal and dissolution, easy rinse-off and - if desired - foam regulation. Surfactants are typically understood to mean surface-active substances which have an HLB value of greater than 20.
Suitable surfactants include all those generally used in the field of cosmetic and personal care compositions and known to those skilled in the art.
The surfactants used may be anionic, nonionic, cationic, and/or amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants. In surfactant-containing compositions, for example shower gels, foam baths, shampoos etc. at least one anionic surfactant is preferably present. In such embodiments, the anionic surfactant can be combined with another type of surfactant, typically with the exception of cationic surfactants, in particular nonionic or zwitterionic/ampholytic surfactants. In all embodiments disclosed herein, more than one surfactant of any type may be included, for example 2, 3, 4, 5 or more different (types of) surfactants.
“Alkyl (ether) sulfates” and “fatty alcohol (ether) sulfates”, as used herein, relate to the well-known class of anionic surfactants of sulfated fatty alcohols and sulfated fatty alcohol ethers, in particular the ethoxylated, propoxylated or mixed ethoxylated/propoxylated ethers of fatty alcohols. Examples of such surfactants thus include sodium lauryl ether sulfate (SLES) and sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS or SDS). As disclosed herein below, it is preferred that these are only used in low amounts or the compositions are free of such surfactants.
Typical examples of usable nonionic surfactants are fatty alcohol polyglycol ethers, alkylphenol polyglycol ethers, fatty acid polyglycol esters, fatty acid amide polyglycol ethers, fatty amine polyglycol ethers, alkoxylated triglycerides, mixed ethers and mixed formals, optionally partially oxidized alk(en)yl (poly)glycosides and glucuronic acid derivatives, fatty acid N-alkylglucamides, protein hydrolysates (especially wheat-based vegetable products), polyol fatty acid esters, sugar esters, sorbitan esters, polysorbates and amine oxides. If the nonionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, they may have a conventional homolog distribution, but preferably have a narrow homolog distribution.
Zwitterionic surfactants refer to those surface-active compounds which bear at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO(-) or -SO3(-) group in the molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the betaines, such as the N-alkyl-N,N- dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyl dimethylammonium glycinate, N- acylaminopropyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylamino- propyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazoline having in each case 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group, and also cocoacylaminoethyl hydroxyethylcarboxymethyl glycinate.
Also suitable, especially as cosurfactants, are ampholytic surfactants. Ampholytic surfactants are understood to mean those surface-active compounds which, apart from a C8-C18-alkyl or acyl group in the molecule, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO3H group and are capable of forming internal salts. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropyhglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2- alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids having in each case about 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N- cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethyl-aminopropionate and C12-18-acylsarcosine.
Typical examples of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are alkylbetaines, alkylamidobetaines, aminopropionates, aminoglycinates, imidazolinium betaines and sulfobetaines.
Typical examples of anionic surfactants are soaps, alkylbenzenesulfonates, alkanesulfonates, olefin-sulfonates, alkyl ether sulfonates, glycerol ether sulfonates, a-methyl ester sulfonates, sulfo fatty acids, mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinates, mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinamates, sulfotriglycerides, amide soaps, ethercarboxylic acids and salts thereof, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, N-acylamino acids, for example acyl lactylates, acyl tartrates, acyl glutamates and acyl aspartates, alkyl oligoglucoside sulfates, protein fatty acid condensates (especially vegetable products based on wheat) and alkyl (ether) phosphates. If the anionic surfactants comprise polyglycol ether chains, these may have a conventional homolog distribution, but preferably have a narrow homolog distribution.
While the compositions may contain alkyl (ether) sulfates, including fatty alcohol (ether) sulfates, it is preferred that these are only present in low amounts of less than 2 wt.-%, such as 1 wt.-% or lower, or more preferred completely absent. In particular the rinse-off compositions disclosed herein are preferably free of such alkyl (ether)sulfates.
Cationic surfactants which can be used are especially quaternary ammonium compounds. Preference is given to ammonium halides, especially chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, e.g. cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride. In addition, the very readily biodegradable quaternary ester compounds, for example the dialkylammonium methosulfates and methylhydroxyalkyldialkyloxyalkylammonium methosulfates sold under the trade name Stepantex® and the corresponding products of the Dehyquart® series can also be used as cationic surfactants. The term “ester quats” are generally understood to mean quaternized fatty acid triethanolamine ester salts. These are known substances which are prepared by the relevant methods of organic chemistry. Further cationic surfactants which can be used in accordance with the invention are the quaternized protein hydrolysates.
Typical examples of particularly suitable mild, i.e. particularly skin-friendly, surfactants are mono- and/or dialkyl sulfosuccinates, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, fatty acid glutamates, a-olefinsulfonates, ether carboxylic acids, 2-sulfonated fatty acids, alkyl (poly)glycosides/-glucosides and/or mixtures thereof with alkyl oligoglucoside carboxylates, fatty acid glucamides, alkylamidobetaines, amphoacetals, protein hydrolysates, and/or protein fatty acid condensates, the latter preferably based on wheat proteins or salts thereof. These surfactants are preferred surfactants to be used in the compositions of the invention. In the compositions of the invention, these may be used individually or in combination.
Preferred surfactants are also generally those that are obtainable from renewable raw materials and are readily biodegradable.
Alk(en)yl (poly)glycosides (APGs) may be compounds of formula (I),
R1O-[G]P (I) in which R1 is an alkyl and/or alkenyl radical with 4 to 18 carbon atoms, G is a sugar radical with 5 or 6 carbon atoms and p is numbers between 1 and 10. While such compounds are commonly referred to as alkyl glycosides or alkyl poly glycosides or alkyl oligo glycosides it is also possible that the alkyl moiety is an alkenyl radical. The term APG, as used herein, thus is intended to cover both alkyl and alkenyl (poly)glycosides.
APGs of the form claimed here can be obtained by the relevant methods of preparative organic chemistry. The APGs can be derived from aldoses or ketoses with 5 or 6 carbon atoms. While various sugar units may be used, in various embodiments, the sugar units of the APGs are derived from glucose.
The index number p in the general formula (I) indicates the degree of oligomerization (DP degree = degree of polymerization). The degree of oligomerization of the APGs is between 1 and 10 and preferably between 1 and 6. Whereas p in an individual APG molecule must always be an integer and here in particular assumes the values in the range from 1 to 6, the value p for an APG which is a mixture of different APG molecules, which differ in their individual p values, is an analytically determined calculated parameter which in most cases is a fraction. Preferably, APGs are used with an average degree of oligomerization p in the range from 1.1 to 3.0 or from 1.1 to 1.8 or from 1.2 to 1.7.
The average degree of oligomerization here is to be understood in the sense of how it is defined in the monograph K. Hill, W. von Rybinski, G. Stoll “Alkyl Polyglycosides. Technology, Properties and Applications” (VCH-Verlagsgesellschft, 1996) in the section “Degree of polymerization” (compare pages 11-12 of the book): there it reads “The average number of glycose units linked to an alcohol group is described as the (average) degree of polymerization (DP).” In explanatory figure 2, which describes a typical distribution of dodecyl glycoside oligomers of an AOPG with a degree of DP of 1.3, the average degree of DP is also described by a corresponding mathematical formula.
The radical R1 is preferably derived from primary alcohols with 4 to 12 carbon atoms and preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms. Typical examples of suitable radicals R1 are butyl, hexyl, octyl, decyl, undecyl, dodecyl and myristyl. They are derived from the saturated fatty alcohols butanol- 1 , caproic alcohol (hexanol-1), caprylic alcohol (octanol-1), capric alcohol (decanol-1), undecanol- 1 , lauryl alcohol (dodecanol-1) and myristyl alcohol (tetradecanol-1), as are obtained for example in the hydrogenation of technical-grade fatty acid methyl esters or in the course of the hydrogenation of aldehydes during Roelen oxo synthesis. Preference is given to APGs which are derived from glucose and in which the radical R1 is a saturated alkyl radical with 8 to 12 carbon atoms and which have an average degree of oligomerization in the range from 1.1 to 3 and in particular in the range from 1.2 to 1.8 and particularly preferably in the range from 1.2 to 1.7. These APGs can for example be prepared by reacting a sugar, in particular glucose, under acid catalysis with a fatty alcohol mixture, the fatty acid mixture used preferably being a forerunning produced during the distillative separation of technical-grade C8.18-coconut fatty alcohol, which comprises predominantly octanol-1 and decanol-1 and also small amounts of dodecanol-1.
Suitable 2-sulfonated fatty acids include, without limitation, 2-sulfolaurate and salts thereof, in particular disodium 2-sulfolaurate.
In various embodiments, the compositions of the invention include at least one surfactant. The at least one surfactant may be present in amounts of from 1 to 30 wt.-%, preferably 2 to 25 wt.-% or 5 to 25 wt.-% or 8 to 30 wt.-% or 10 to 25 wt.-% or 15 to 25 wt.-%, relative to the total weight of the composition. In various embodiments, the at least one surfactant is present in amounts of 5 to 20 or 10 to 15 wt.-%. Such surfactant-containing compositions may, in various embodiments, be the rinse-off compositions described herein.
In such surfactant-containing compositions, for example shower gels, foam baths, shampoos etc. at least one anionic surfactant is preferably present, preferably in combination with at least one nonionic or zwitterionic surfactant. In such embodiments, the at least one anionic surfactant and the at least one nonionic surfactant may be selected from the surfactants indicated as being preferred above. For example, the anionic surfactant may be a 2-sulfonated fatty acid, such as 2- sulfolaurate, and the nonionic surfactant may be an APG. The anionic surfactant may alternative be a sulfosuccinate or fatty acid glutamate and the nonionic/zwitterionic surfactant may be an alkylamidobetaine.
Emollients
In one embodiment of the invention, the compositions comprise at least one emollient.
In the context of the present invention, the term “emollient” is understood to mean substances that make the skin soft and supple, especially by supplying the skin with lipids or reducing evaporation or increasing the moisture content of the skin. Suitable emollients are substances from the group of the oils, fats, waxes, hydrocarbons and/or organosilicon compounds that are liquid at room temperature or have a melting point < 70°C. Emollients present in the base mixture may be oils, fats and/or waxes, for example from the group formed by esters, wax esters, waxes, triglycerides or partial glycerides, natural vegetable oils or fats, hydrocarbons, organosilicon compounds, Guerbet alcohols, mono-/dialkylethers, mono- /dialkyl carbonates, and mixtures thereof.
Exemplary esters that may be present include, but are not limited to, those of linear fatty acids with linear or branched fatty alcohols, esters of linear fatty alcohols with linear or branched carboxylic acids, esters of alkyl hydroxycarboxylic acids with linear or branched fatty alcohols, esters of linear or branched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols such as diols or trimer triol, wax esters, triglycerides or partial glycerides (called mono-/di-/triglyceride esters), esters of fatty alcohols and/or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids, esters of dicarboxylic acids with linear or branched alcohols, natural vegetable oils or fats and mixtures thereof.
Suitable examples from the group of esters of linear C6-C22 fatty acids with linear or branched C6-C22 fatty alcohols or esters of branched C6-C22 carboxylic acids with linear or branched 06- 022 fatty alcohols are myristyl myristate (commercially available as Cetiol® MM), myristyl isostearate, myristyl oleate, myristyl erucate, cetyl isostearate, cetyl oleate, cetyl erucate, stearyl myristate, stearyl isostearate, stearyl oleate, stearyl erucate, isostearyl myristate, isostearyl palmitate, isostearyl stearate, isostearyl isostearate, isostearyl oleate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, oleyl myristate, oleyl palmitate, oleyl stearate, oleyl isostearate, oleyl oleate, oleyl behenate, oleyl erucate (commercially available as Cetiol® J 600), behenyl oleate, behenyl erucate, erucyl myristate, erucyl palmitate, erucyl stearate, erucyl isostearate, erucyl oleate, erucyl behenate and erucyl erucate, ethylhexyl stearate (commercially available as Cetiol® 868), hexyl laurate (commercially available as Cetiol® A), coco-caprylate (commercially available as Cetiol® C5), coco-caprylate/caprate (commercially available as Cetiol® LC, Cetiol® C 5C), propylheptyl caprylate (commercially available as Cetiol® Sensoft), cetearyl isononanoate (commercially available as Cetiol® SN), decyl oleate (commercially available as Cetiol® V), cetearyl ethylhexanoate.
Similarly suitable are esters of alkyl hydroxy carboxylic acids with linear or branched C6-C22 fatty alcohols, preferably esters of lactic acid such as lauryl lactate.
Also suitable are esters of dicarboxylic acids and linear or branched alcohols, preferably esters of malic acid, adipic acid and/or sebacic acid, such as dibutyl adipate, dioctyl malate and/or diisopropyl sebacate.
Also suitable are esters of linear and/or branched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols (such as propylene glycol, dimer diol or trimer triol), such as propylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate (commercially available as Myritol® PGDC), triglycerides based on C6-C10 fatty acids, liquid monoglycerides, diglycerides or mono-/di-/triglyceride mixtures based on C6-C18 fatty acids (commercially available as Myritol® 331 , Myritol® 312, Myritol® 318), esters of C6-C22 fatty alcohols and/or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids, especially benzoic acid, esters of benzoic acid with linear and/or branched C6-C22 alcohols (e.g. commercially available as Finsolv® TN, Cetiol® AB). Also suitable are hydrogenated glycerides, for example hydrogenated vegetable glycerides (commercially available as Cutina® HVG).
Of good suitability as natural, especially vegetable, fats and oils are groundnut oil, soybean oil, jojoba oil, rapeseed oil, hemp seed oil, avocado oil, argan oil, castor oil, sunflower oil, palm oil, palm kernel oil, linseed oil, almond oil, wheat germ oil, macadamia nut oil, olive oil, sesame oil, cocoa butter and shea butter, for example commercially available as Cegesoft® PFO, Cegesoft® PS 6, Cegesoft® SBE, Cegesoft® SH, Cegesoft® VP or Cetiol® SB 45.
Also usable as emollient are, for example, natural vegetable waxes such as fruit waxes (for example orange waxes) and animal waxes such as wool wax.
Also suitable as emollient are C12-C15 fatty alcohols that are usually obtained from natural fats, oils and waxes, such as lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol or 1-pentadecanol.
Further suitable emollients are organosilicon compounds, which are frequently referred to simply as silicones. They may take the form of cyclic, branched or linear silicones. Silicones are high molecular weight synthetic polymeric compounds in which silicon atoms are joined via oxygen atoms in a chain-like and/or grid-like manner and the remaining valences of silicon are satisfied by hydrocarbon radicals (usually methyl, more rarely ethyl, propyl, phenyl groups etc.). Systematically, the silicones are referred to as polyorganosiloxanes.
Advantageous polyorganosiloxanes are, for example, the methyl-substituted polyorganosiloxanes. They are also referred to as Polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) or Dimethicone (INCI). Dimethicones come in various chain lengths and with various molecular weights. They are available, for example, under the Abil® 350 trade name from Evonik or Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone Fluid trade name from Dow Chemicals.
Also advantageous are phenylmethylpolysiloxane (INCI: Phenyl Dimethicone, Phenyl Trimethicone), cyclic silicones (e.g. decamethylcyclopentasiloxane or dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane), which are also referred to in accordance with INCI as cyclomethicone, amino-modified silicones (INCI: Amodimethicone) and silicone waxes, e.g. polysiloxane-polyalkylene copolymers (INCI: Stearyl Dimethicone and Cetyl Dimethicone) and dialkoxydimethylpolysiloxanes (Stearoxy Dimethicone and Behenoxy Stearyl Dimethicone), which are available as various Abil wax grades from Evonik. Silicones which are particularly preferred are dimethicone, amodimethicone and cyclomethicone.
Further suitable emollients are mono- and/or dialkyl carbonates of linear or branched C6-C22 fatty alcohols, such as dicaprylyl carbonate (commercially available as Cetiol® CC) or dipropylheptyl carbonate (commercially available as Cetiol® 4AII), Guerbet carbonates based on fatty alcohols having 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10, carbon atoms, linear or branched, symmetrical or asymmetrical dialkyl ethers having 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, for example dicaprylyl ether (commercially available as Cetiol® OE).
Further suitable emollients are hydrocarbons such as mineral oils, paraffinum liquidum, undecane/tridecane (commercially available as Cetiol® Ultimate), hydrogenated polyisobutene (Luvitol® Lite), substituted cyclohexanes, isoparaffins or paraffins as well as C9-C12 alkanes.
Suitable Guerbet alcohols are those based on fatty alcohols having 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10, carbon atoms (commercially available as Eutanol® G, Eutanol® G 16).
In various embodiments, the compositions of the invention include at least one emollient. The at least one emollient may be present in amounts of from 1 to 30 wt.-%, preferably 2 to 25 wt.-% or 5 to 25 wt.-% or 8 to 30 wt.-% or 10 to 25 wt.-% or 15 to 25 wt.-%, relative to the total weight of the composition. In various embodiments, the at least one emollient is used in amounts of 5 to 20 or 8 to 15 wt.-%.
In such emollient-containing compositions, for example skin care creams, including face care and hand care creams, and body creams and lotions, typically at least one, preferably two or more of the above emollients are included.
Particularly preferred emollients in the compositions of the invention include, but are not limited to, symmetrical or asymmetrical dialkyl ethers having 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, for example dicaprylyl ether, hydrogenated glycerides, for example hydrogenated vegetable glycerides, mono glycerides, such as glyceryl oleate, liquid mono-/di-/triglyceride mixtures based on C6-C18 fatty acids, and esters of linear C6-C22 fatty acids with isopropanol or linear or branched C6-C22 fatty alcohols, for example isopropyl palmitate, ethylhexyl stearate, coco- caprylate/caprate, and combinations thereof.
In some embodiments, if the composition contains at least one surfactant, it may be free of emollients and vice versa. In other embodiments, both at least one surfactant and at least one emollient may be used in the same composition. In such embodiments, the amounts given for the surfactant or the emollient herein may refer to the total amount of surfactants and emollients in the composition.
Further components
Depending on the intended application, the compositions of the invention can comprise a series of further auxiliaries and additives, such as, for example, preservatives, dyes, coloring agents, pigments, fragrances, humectants, emulsifiers, opacifiers, pearlescent agents, buffering and pH adjustment agents, conditioning agents and antioxidants. Suitable compounds are commercially available and well-known to those skilled in the art.
Suitable humectants, for example, include sorbitol, glycerol, propylene glycol, xylitol, liquid polyethylene glycol and mixtures thereof. If used in the compositions, the weight ratio of water to humectant is preferably at least 10:1 and up to 30:1 , with the total amount of humectant ranging from 2 to 8 wt.-%, relative to the total weight of the composition, for example 3 to 7 or 4 to 6 wt.- %.
In some embodiments, the compositions may comprise polyquaternium-10 (quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose) as a conditioning agent. In such embodiments, the compositions are preferably rinse-off formulations, such as shower gels, shampoos and bath foams.
In various embodiments, the compositions of the invention comprise cationic guar gum, preferably guar hydroxypropyltrimonium salt, typically the chloride salt. Guar gum is a galactomannan polysaccharide extracted from guar beans that is known for its thickening and stabilizing properties useful in food applications. Cationic guar (gum) is obtained by quaternization of guar gum, the most common cationic guar being guar hydroxypropyltrimonium. It is typically used in form of its salt, in particular the chloride salt.
The compositions of the invention may optionally contain cationic guar in an amount of 0.01 to 1.0 wt.-%, preferably 0.2 to 0.6 wt.-%, relative to the total weight of the composition. In such embodiments, the compositions are preferably rinse-off formulations, such as shower gels, shampoos and bath foams.
The compositions of the invention are free of (poly)acrylate thickeners or, preferably, generally free of polyacrylates, including acrylate copolymers. In various embodiments, the compositions of the invention are generally free of synthetic polymeric thickeners. In some embodiments, the compositions do not contain any thickeners or rheology modifying agents other than xanthan gum and hydroxypropyl starch (phosphate). In this context, “thickeners” and “rheology modifiers” preferably refer to compounds only added for the purpose to increase or adjust viscosity and rheology and which do not function as other components of the composition, such as surfactants, emollients or any of the other auxiliary substances listed above.
The compositions of the invention are also free of organic UV filters selected from (hydroxy)benzophenones, ethylhexyl triazone, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, octocrylene, and ethylhexyl salicylate. In various embodiments, the compositions of the invention are also free of organic UV filters selected from (hydroxy)benzophenones, triazines, triazones, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, octocrylene, homosalate and ethylhexyl salicylate. In various embodiments, the personal care compositions of the invention are not sunscreens.
The compositions of the invention are also free of fluorinated organic compounds, more preferably free of halogenated organic compounds. This relates to organic compounds that have fluorine or any other halogen bonded by a covalent bond, but does not extend to halogen salts (halides).
The compositions of the invention are preferably also free of alkyl (ether) sulfate surfactants or contain those only in small amounts of less than 2 wt.-%, preferably 1 wt.-% or less.
The compositions of the invention are preferably also free of oxidizing agents, such as those used in hair dyes, in particular hydrogen peroxide or hydrogen peroxide generating compounds. In various embodiments, the compositions of the invention are not hair dyes.
The compositions of the present invention may be based, in various embodiments, predominantly on components derived from renewable raw materials. In various embodiments this may mean that more than 50 wt.-%, preferably more than 60, more than 70, more than 80 or more than 90 wt.-% of the components of the composition other than water are derived from renewable raw materials. It may be preferred that all non-water components are derived from renewable raw materials. Said renewable materials include, but are not limited to, plant-based materials. It may be preferred that less than 10 wt.-%, more preferably none of the non-water components of the compositions are derived from fossil sources or fossil fuels.
The compositions of the present invention may be based, in various embodiments, predominantly on components that are biodegradable. In various embodiments this may mean that more than 50 wt.-%, preferably more than 60, more than 70, more than 80 or more than 90 wt.-% of the components of the composition besides water are biodegradable. It may be preferred that all non- water components are biodegradable. The biodegradability is preferably determined according to OECD 301 F or OECD 302 C (MITI-II test), with ..biodegradable" components preferably having a biodegradability of at least 40%, preferably 60% determined according to OECD 301 F and/or at least 20%, preferably at least 40% according to OECD 302 C.
The compositions of the invention preferably have a pH at 20°C in the range of 3.5 to 7.0, preferably 4.0 to 6.5. more preferably 4.5 to 6.5, for example 4.8 to 5.2 or 6.0. to 6.2. The pH value may be determined directly or, preferably, as a 1 % solution or dispersion in deionized water.
The viscosity of the compositions is preferably at least 2.000 mPa.s (determined at 20°C in a Brookfield DV-I+, Spindle 4, 10 rpm) and may be as high as 50.000 mPa.s (determined at 20°C in a Brookfield DV-I+, Spindle TC, Helipath, 10 rpm).
Specific Embodiments
In various embodiments of the invention, the composition is a hair shampoo composition. Such hair shampoo compositions may comprise, in various embodiments, 10 to 30 wt.-% surfactants, preferably 15 to 25 wt.-% surfactants. These surfactants preferably include at least one anionic surfactant and/or are preferably selected from the preferred skin-friendly surfactants listed above, namely mono- and/or dialkyl sulfosuccinates, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, fatty acid glutamates, a-olefinsulfonates, ether carboxylic acids, 2-sulfonated fatty acids, alkyl (poly)glycosides/-glucosides and/or mixtures thereof with alkyl oligoglucoside carboxylates, fatty acid glucamides, alkylamidobetaines, amphoacetals, protein hydrolysates, and/or protein fatty acid condensates, the latter preferably based on wheat proteins or salts thereof.
In some embodiments, the anionic surfactant is selected from mono- and/or dialkyl sulfosuccinates, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, fatty acid glutamates, a-olefinsulfonates, ether carboxylic acids, and 2-sulfonated fatty acids, preferably 2- sulfonated fatty acids, such as 2-sulfolaurate.
Additionally, at least one nonionic and/or zwitterionic/amphoteric surfactant may be included, such as APGs, in particular alkyl(poly)glyucosides, or alkylamidobetaines or protein hydrolysates.
The anionic surfactant, if present, can be present in amounts of from 5 to 20 wt.-%. The nonionic and/or zwitterionic/amphoteric surfactant may also be present in amounts of from 5 to 20 wt.-%. The total amount of surfactants is however defined by the above preferred range of 10 to 30 wt.- %.
Such hair shampoo compositions may further comprise at least one conditioning agent. A suitable conditioning agent includes cationic guar, as defined above, which can, in various embodiments, be included in amounts of 0.01 to 1 .0 wt.-%, preferably 0.2 to 0.6 wt.-%, relative to the total weight of the composition. In various embodiments, the conditioning agent may also have surfactant properties and may, for example, be a protein hydrolysate, such as wheat protein hydrolysate. Alternatively or additionally, commonly used conditioners may be included, such as organosilicones, such as dimethicone, amodimethicone and cyclomethicone. Such hair conditioners also include other compounds listed as emollients above. For example, also PQ-10 may be used as such (hair) conditioning agent.
Generally, such hair conditioning agents may be present in amounts of from 0.2 to 5.0 wt.-%, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably 0.5 to 3.0 wt.-%, or 1 .0 to 2.5 wt.-%.
The hair shampoo composition typically further comprises preservatives and fragrances (perfumes), but may additionally include further auxiliaries as listed above, such as colorants and opacifiers or pearlescent agents. These are usually used in minor amounts of less than 1 wt.-% each, and may, in various embodiments, add up to a total weight portion of up to 5 wt.-% or up to 10 wt.-%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Such shampoo compositions may have viscosities of at least 2.000 mPa.s, preferably 2.000 to 20.000 mPa.s or 3.000 to 17.000 mPa.s (determined at 20°C in a Brookfield DV-I+, Spindle 4, 10 rpm).
In other embodiments, the composition is a skin care composition, for example a hand cream.
In such embodiments, the composition comprises 8 to 20 wt.-% of emollients, preferably 10 to 15 wt.-%, relative to the total weight of the composition. These emollients are preferably selected from those indicated above as being preferred for the compositions of the invention, namely symmetrical or asymmetrical dialkyl ethers having 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, for example dicaprylyl ether, hydrogenated glycerides, for example hydrogenated vegetable glycerides, mono glycerides, such as glyceryl oleate, liquid mono-/di-/triglyceride mixtures based on C6-C18 fatty acids, and esters of linear C6-C22 fatty acids with isopropanol or linear or branched C6-C22 fatty alcohols, for example isopropyl palmitate, ethylhexyl stearate, and coco- caprylate/caprate. In various embodiments the skin care composition comprises one or more of isopropyl palmitate, ethylhexyl stearate, coco-caprylate/caprate, and hydrogenated vegetable glycerides. In various embodiments, the composition comprises two, three, or all four of these compounds. In various embodiments, the skin care composition further comprises a humectant, such as glycerol. The humectant may be present in amounts of 2 to 10 wt.-%, for example 3 to 7 or about 5 wt.-%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
In various embodiments, the skin care composition further comprises one or more (co-)emulsifiers, such as cetylstearyl alcohol (INCI cetearyl alcohol). These may be present in amounts of from 1 to 5 wt.-%, such as 1.5 to 4 wt.-%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The skin care composition may also comprise one or more surfactants, typically in low amounts of less than 2 wt.-%. Suitable surfactants include, without limitation, fatty acid glutamates, such as stearoyl glutamate.
The skin care composition may comprise further ingredients, such as preservatives and fragrances but may also include further auxiliaries as listed above, such as colorants and opacifiers or pearlescent agents. These are usually used in minor amounts of less than 1 wt.-% each, and may, in various embodiments, add up to a total weight portion of up to 5 wt.-% or up to 10 wt.-%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
In some embodiments, the skin care composition may additionally comprise sensory powders with small particles that provide for a powdery light and smooth skin feel. These may be plantbased biopolymers and include starch-based powders, such as rice starch powder. Suitable compounds are commercially available, for example as Verdessence® RiceTouch.
Such skin care compositions may have viscosities of at least 20.000 mPa.s, preferably 25.000 to 50.000 mPa.s or 30.000 to 40.000 mPa.s (determined at 20°C in a Brookfield DV-I+, Spindle TC, Helipath, 10 rpm).
In a still other embodiment, the composition is a body lotion. In such embodiments, it may comprise 5 to 20 wt.-% emollients, preferably 6 to 15 wt.-% or 7 to 13 wt.-%, relative to the total weight of the composition. These emollients are preferably selected from those indicated above as being preferred for the compositions of the invention, namely symmetrical or asymmetrical dialkyl ethers having 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, for example dicaprylyl ether, hydrogenated glycerides, for example hydrogenated vegetable glycerides, mono glycerides, such as glyceryl oleate, liquid mono-/di-/triglyceride mixtures based on C6-C18 fatty acids, and esters of linear C6-C22 fatty acids with isopropanol or linear or branched C6-C22 fatty alcohols, for example isopropyl palmitate, ethylhexyl stearate, and coco-caprylate/caprate. In various embodiments the skin care composition comprises one or more of dicaprylyl ether, cocoglycerides (liquid mono-/di-/triglyceride mixtures based on C6-C18 fatty acids), coco- caprylate/caprate, cetyl palmitate, and hemp seed oil. In various embodiments, the composition comprises two, three, four or all five of these compounds.
In various embodiments, the body lotion composition further comprises a humectant, such as glycerol. The humectant may be present in amounts of 2 to 10 wt.-%, for example 3 to 7 or about 5-6 wt.-%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
In various embodiments, the skin care composition further comprises one or more (co-)emulsifiers, such as cetylstearyl alcohol (INCI cetearyl alcohol). These may be present in amounts of from 1 to 5 wt.-%, such as 1.5 to 4 wt.-%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The body lotion composition may also comprise one or more surfactants, typically in low amounts of less than 2 wt.-% or less than 1 wt.-%. Suitable surfactants include, without limitation, fatty acid glutamates, such as stearoyl glutamate. In some embodiments, the body lotion may also comprise low amounts of alkyl sulfate surfactants, such as cetearyl sulfate. Such low amounts mean about 1 wt.-% or less.
The body lotion composition may comprise further ingredients, such as preservatives, antioxidants and fragrances and, additionally and optionally, further auxiliaries as listed above, such as colorants and opacifiers or pearlescent agents. These are usually used in minor amounts of less than 1 wt.-% each, and may, in various embodiments, add up to a total weight portion of up to 5 wt.-%.
Such body lotion compositions may have viscosities of at least 10.000 mPa.s, preferably 15.000 to 25.000 mPa.s (determined at 20°C in a Brookfield DV-I+, Spindle TB, Helipath, 10 rpm).
In various embodiments of the invention, the compositions of the invention may have the composition as set forth in any one of Tables 1-3 as set forth in the examples below.
Uses
In another aspect the present invention features the use of hydroxypropyl starch (phosphate) or salt thereof to texturize a personal care composition that contains xanthan gum.
“Texturize”, as used herein, relates to the property to advantageously influence texture and flow properties of a given composition to achieve the texture attributes desired by consumers. In the field of personal care compositions, these include a smooth and uniform feel. For example, it has been shown herein that by combining hydroxypropyl starch (phosphate) and xanthan gum a jelly- like texture observed for compositions containing only xanthan can be avoided without compromising the desired viscosity.
Texturizing agents are known mainly from food applications and play a key role in adding high value to innovative food preparations. They are added to food to modify the overall texture and cause a change in the mouthfeel of the food, as well as its appearance. According to the present invention, the combination of xanthan gum and hydroxypropyl starch (phosphate) is used for the same purpose, namely to provide for a desired feel and appearance of the composition.
Hydroxypropyl starch (phosphate) may also be used to (synergistically) increase the viscosity of xanthan gum-containing compositions. “Synergistically”, as used in this context, means that the viscosity increase is higher than the mere additive values of the respective components. This effect is for example derivable from the results shown in Figure 1.
Similarly, xanthan gum may be used to (synergistically) increase the viscosity of compositions containing hydroxypropyl starch (phosphate). Xanthan gum may however also be used to stabilize compositions containing hydroxypropyl starch (phosphate). “Stabilize”, as used in this context, means that it can be used to avoid instability of a given composition that may manifest in phase separation or demixing, as has been observed for compositions containing hydroxypropyl starch phosphate without xanthan gum herein, as reported in the examples.
In these aspects of the invention, the compositions may be the personal care compositions described in more detail above. Specifically, it is understood that all embodiments disclosed above in relation to the compositions of the invention are similarly applicable to the uses.
This means that in various embodiments, the hydroxypropyl starch phosphate is used in amounts of 0.2 to 5.0 wt.-% relative to the total weight of the composition; and/or the xanthan gum is used in amounts of 0.05 to less than 0.5 wt.-% relative to the total weight of the composition.
Further, the compositions used typically contain water in an amount of at least 60 wt.-%, preferably 65 to 90 wt.-%, relative to the total weight of the composition and preferably comprises at least one of a surfactant and an emollient.
As already described above, the compositions are preferably rinse-off compositions and/or a hair or skin care composition, preferably a hair shampoo or shower gel, a body lotion or a hand cream. Method
In still another aspect, the invention relates to a method for (synergistically) increasing the viscosity and/or improving the texture of a personal care composition, said method comprising
(1) providing a personal care base composition comprising water in an amount of at least 60 % by weight, preferably 60 to 90 wt.-%; and
(2) adding xanthan gum and hydroxypropyl starch phosphate either concomitantly or subsequently to the personal care base composition.
All embodiments described above for the personal compositions of the invention and the inventive uses are similarly applicable to the methods of the invention. For example, the personal care base composition may already comprise at least one of a surfactant and an emollient and optionally also one or more of the additional components and auxiliaries disclosed herein above.
Examples
Example 1 : Formulations Table 1: Baby Shampoo
Figure imgf000026_0001
The shampoo formulation had a pH value at 20°C of 5.0. The viscosity (as determined by Brookfield; RVDV-II+; spindle 4, 10 rpm, 20°C) was 3.090 mPa.s.
Table 2: Hand care cream
Figure imgf000027_0001
The hand care cream formulation had a pH value at 20°C of 6.0-6.2. The viscosity (as determined by Brookfield; DV-I+; spindle TC, Helipath, 10 rpm, 20°C) was 30.000-35.000 mPa.s.
Table 3: Body lotion
Figure imgf000027_0002
Figure imgf000028_0001
The body lotion formulation had a pH value at 20°C of 6.0. The viscosity (as determined by Brookfield; DV-I+; spindle TB, Helipath, 10 rpm, 20°C) was 15.000-20.000 mPa.s.
In all formulations, Verdessence® Xanthan (xanthan gum) and Cosmedia® HP Starch (hydroxypropyl starch phosphate) were used
Example 2: Viscosity measurements
The shampoo composition according to Example 1 , Table 1 , was tested together with modified shampoo compositions in which the Xanthan gum concentration was 0.1 or 0.5 wt.-% instead, with the remaining components being identical. Compositions with only xanthan gum at 0.1 , 0.3, 0.5 and 1.0 wt.-% and without hydroxypropyl starch (phosphate) and only hydroxypropyl starch phosphate at 3.0 wt.-% without xanthan gum were used as a reference.
The formulation containing only hydroxypropyl starch phosphate at 3.0 wt.-% without xanthan gum was found to be instable and to show phase separation.
The formulation with only xanthan gum at 1 wt.-% had a viscosity of 3.880 mPa.s but showed a jelly-like texture (not smooth).
The addition of xanthan gum to the formulation containing hydroxypropyl starch phosphate helped to stabilize the formulation. No phase separation was observed. Further, the combination of xanthan gum and hydroxypropyl starch phosphate resulted in a synergy regarding viscosity increase and improved texture. At high amounts of xanthan gum, namely 0.5 wt.-%, the composition (also containing 3 wt.-% hydroxypropyl starch phosphate) again showed a jelly-like texture and not the desired smooth texture. For the compositions according to the invention containing 3 wt.-% hydroxypropyl starch phosphate and 0.1 or 0.3 wt.-% xanthan gum good viscosities and smooth textures were obtained, with the formulation including 0.3 wt.-% xanthan gum having the more desirable higher viscosity.
The results of viscosity measurements are shown in Figure 1.

Claims

Claims
1. Personal care composition, comprising:
(A) hydroxypropyl starch (phosphate) or salt thereof in an amount of 0.2 to 5.0 wt.-%, relative to the total weight of the composition;
(B) xanthan gum in amount of 0.05 to less than 0.5 wt.-%, preferably 0.05 to 0.45 wt.-%, relative to the total weight of the composition;
(C) water in an amount of at least 60 % by weight, preferably 65 to 90 wt.-%; wherein the weight ratio of (A) to (B) is in the range of 1 :1 to 50:1 , preferably 2:1 to 30:1; wherein the composition further comprises at least one of a surfactant and an emollient; and wherein the composition is free of fluorinated organic compounds, polyacrylate thickeners, and organic UV filter compounds selected from the group of (hydroxy)benzophenones, ethylhexyl triazone, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, octocrylene, and ethylhexyl salicylate, and optionally also free of oxidizing agents and/or alkyl (ether) sulfate surfactants.
2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the composition comprises
(1) the at least one surfactant in an amount of 1 to 30 wt.-%, preferably 5 to 25 wt.-%, relative to the total weight of the composition; and/or
(2) the at least one emollient in an amount of 1 to 30 wt.-%, preferably 5 to 25 wt.-%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
3. The composition of claim 1 or 2, wherein the at least one surfactant is selected from mono- and/or dialkyl sulfosuccinates, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, fatty acid glutamates, a-olefinsulfonates, ether carboxylic acids, 2-sulfonated fatty acids, alkyl (poly)glycosides/-glucosides and mixtures thereof with alkyl oligoglucoside carboxylates, fatty acid glucamides, alkylamidobetaines, amphoacetals, protein fatty acid condensates, protein hydrolysates, and combinations thereof.
4. The composition of any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the at least one emollient is selected from symmetrical or asymmetrical dialkyl ethers having 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, preferably dicaprylyl ether, hydrogenated glycerides, preferably hydrogenated vegetable glycerides, mono glycerides, preferably glyceryl oleate, liquid mono-/di-/triglyceride mixtures based on C6-C18 fatty acids, and esters of linear C6-C22 fatty acids with isopropanol or linear or branched C6-C22 fatty alcohols, preferably isopropyl palmitate, ethylhexyl stearate, coco- caprylate/caprate, and combinations thereof.
5. The composition of any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the composition further comprises a cationic guar, preferably guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, optionally in an amount of 0.01 to 1.0 wt.-%, preferably 0.2 to 0.6 wt.-%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
6. The composition of any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the composition further comprises any one or more of preservatives, dyes, coloring agents, pigments, fragrances, humectants, emulsifiers, opacifiers, pearlescent agents, buffering and pH adjustment agents, and antioxidants.
7. The composition of any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein
(1) the composition is a rinse off composition; and/or
(2) the composition is a hair or skin care composition, preferably a hair shampoo or shower gel, a body lotion or a skin care cream.
8. The composition of any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the composition is a hair shampoo composition and comprises 10 to 30 wt.-% surfactants, preferably 15 to 25 wt.-% surfactants, relative to the total weight of the composition, the surfactants being selected from mono- and/or dialkyl sulfosuccinates, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, fatty acid glutamates, a-olefinsulfonates, ether carboxylic acids, 2-sulfonated fatty acids, alkyl (poly)glycosides/-glucosides and/or mixtures thereof with alkyl oligoglucoside carboxylates, fatty acid glucamides, alkylamidobetaines, amphoacetals, protein hydrolysates, and/or protein fatty acid condensates.
9. The composition of any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the composition is a skin care cream composition and comprises 8 to 20 wt.-% of emollients, preferably 10 to 15 wt.-%, relative to the total weight of the composition, the emollients being selected from symmetrical or asymmetrical dialkyl ethers having 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, preferably dicaprylyl ether, hydrogenated glycerides, preferably hydrogenated vegetable glycerides, mono glycerides, preferably glyceryl oleate, liquid mono-/di-/triglyceride mixtures based on C6-C18 fatty acids, and esters of linear C6-C22 fatty acids with isopropanol or linear or branched C6- C22 fatty alcohols, preferably isopropyl palmitate, ethylhexyl stearate, coco-caprylate/caprate, and combinations thereof
10. The composition of any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the composition is a body lotion composition and comprises 5 to 20 wt.-% emollients, preferably 6 to 15 wt.-% or 7 to 13 wt.-%, relative to the total weight of the composition, the emollients being selected from symmetrical or asymmetrical dialkyl ethers having 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, preferably dicaprylyl ether, hydrogenated glycerides, preferably hydrogenated vegetable glycerides, mono glycerides, preferably glyceryl oleate, liquid mono-/di-/triglyceride mixtures based on C6-C18 fatty acids, and esters of linear C6-C22 fatty acids with isopropanol or linear or branched C6- C22 fatty alcohols, preferably isopropyl palmitate, ethylhexyl stearate, coco-caprylate/caprate, and combinations thereof.
11. The composition of any one of claims 1 to 10, wherein
(1) the composition is a hair shampoo and has a viscosity of at least 2.000 mPa.s, preferably 2.000 to 20.000 mPa.s determined at 20°C in a Brookfield DV-I+, Spindle 4, 10 rpm;
(2) the composition is a skin care cream and has a viscosity of at least 20.000 mPa.s, preferably 25.000 to 40.000 mPa.s determined at 20°C in a Brookfield DV-I+, Spindle TC, Helipath, 10 rpm; or
(3) the composition is a body lotion and has a viscosity of at least 10.000 mPa.s, preferably 15.000 to 25.000 mPa.s determined at 20°C in a Brookfield DV-I+, Spindle TB, Helipath, 10 rpm.
12. Use of xanthan gum to stabilize and/or synergistically increase viscosity of a personal care composition containing hydroxypropyl starch phosphate.
13. Use of hydroxypropyl starch phosphate to texturize and/or synergistically increase viscosity of a personal care composition containing xanthan gum.
14. The use of claim 12 or 13, wherein
(i) the hydroxypropyl starch phosphate is used in amounts of 0.2 to 5.0 wt.-% relative to the total weight of the composition; and/or
(ii) the xanthan gum is used in amounts of 0.05 to less than 0.5 wt.-% relative to the total weight of the composition; and/or
(iii) the personal care composition contains water in an amount of at least 60 wt.-%, preferably 65 to 90 wt.-%, relative to the total weight of the composition; and/or
(iv) the cosmetic composition comprises at least one of a surfactant and an emollient; and/or
(v) the composition is free of free of fluorinated organic compounds, polyacrylate thickeners, and organic UV filter compounds selected from the group of (hydroxy)benzophenones, ethylhexyl triazone, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, octocrylene, and ethylhexyl salicylate, and optionally also free of oxidizing agents and/or alkyl (ether) sulfate surfactants; and/or
(vi) the composition is a hair or skin care composition, preferably a hair shampoo or shower gel, a body lotion or a hand cream.
15. Method for synergistically increasing the viscosity and/or improving the texture of a personal care composition, said method comprising
(1) providing a personal care base composition comprising water in an amount of at least 60 % by weight, preferably 60 to 90 wt.-%, relative to the total weight of the composition; and (2) adding either concomitantly or subsequently xanthan gum in an amount of 0.05 to less than 0.5 wt.-% relative to the total weight of the composition, and hydroxypropyl starch (phosphate) or salt thereof in an amount of 0.2 to 5.0 wt.-% relative to the total weight of the composition to the personal care base composition.
PCT/EP2024/055322 2023-03-03 2024-03-01 Personal care compositions comprising xanthan gum and hydroxypropyl starch WO2024184209A1 (en)

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* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
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