WO2024180130A1 - Cosmetic composition with zinc oxide and bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine - Google Patents

Cosmetic composition with zinc oxide and bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2024180130A1
WO2024180130A1 PCT/EP2024/055100 EP2024055100W WO2024180130A1 WO 2024180130 A1 WO2024180130 A1 WO 2024180130A1 EP 2024055100 W EP2024055100 W EP 2024055100W WO 2024180130 A1 WO2024180130 A1 WO 2024180130A1
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weight
composition
composition according
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total weight
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PCT/EP2024/055100
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French (fr)
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Martin Josso
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L'oreal
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/494Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with more than one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
    • A61K8/4966Triazines or their condensed derivatives
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/27Zinc; Compounds thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a composition, preferably cosmetic, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, zinc oxide and 2,4-bis- ⁇ [4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]- phenyl ⁇ -6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1 ,3,5-triazine (INCI name: Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine), in specific quantities, said composition being substantially free of other UV filter(s).
  • UVB rays radiation with wavelengths between 280 nm and 400 nm
  • Exposure can also lead to a prejudicial change in the biomechanical properties of the epidermis, resulting in the appearance of wrinkles leading to premature aging of the skin (i.e., photoaging).
  • UVA rays with a wavelength of between 320 and 400 nm penetrate into the skin into the skin more deeply than UVB rays. UVA rays cause immediate and persistent tanning of the skin. Daily exposure to UVA rays, even of short duration, under normal conditions, can damage collagen and elastin fibers, which results in a modification to the microrelief of the skin, the appearance of wrinkles and unequal pigmentation (spots, uneven complexion).
  • Zinc oxide in particular enjoys a very good reputation and is increasingly used.
  • composition comprising the combination of zinc oxide and 2,4-bis- ⁇ [4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl ⁇ -6-(4- methoxyphenyl)-1 ,3,5-triazine (INCI name: Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine; BEMT), with no other sun filter, in specific quantities, has a synergistic effect in terms of sun filtration, and thus an unexpected efficacy.
  • the present invention thus relates to a composition, preferably cosmetic, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: from 4.5% to 10% by weight of 2,4-bis- ⁇ [4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl ⁇ -6-(4- methoxyphenyl)-1 ,3,5-triazine (INCI name: Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine) with respect to the total weight of the composition, and from 5% to 25% of zinc oxide with respect to the total weight of the composition, the composition comprising less than 3% of other UV filter(s) with respect to the total weight of the composition.
  • a composition preferably cosmetic, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: from 4.5% to 10% by weight of 2,4-bis- ⁇ [4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl ⁇ -6-(4- methoxyphenyl)-1 ,3,5-triazine (INCI name: Bis
  • “Physiologically acceptable medium” means a medium compatible with keratin materials.
  • "Keratin materials” in particular means the skin, scalp, keratin fibers, such as the eyelashes, the eyebrows, hair on the head and body, the nails, the mucosa such as the lips, and more particularly the skin and the mucosa (body, face, eye contour, eyelids, lips, preferably body, face and lips).
  • the filtering efficacy is evaluated using the SPF and UVAPF evaluation.
  • SPF Sun Protection Factor
  • SPF Sun Protection Factor
  • the evaluation of the SPF (Sun Protection Factor) can be carried out in vitro with a Labsphere® spectrophotometer.
  • the plate is the equipment on which the sun composition is applied.
  • PMMA polymethylmethacrylate
  • the evaluation of the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) of the compositions can also be performed in-vivo according to the ISO-24444:2019 protocol "Cosmetics-Sun protection test methods-ln-vivo determination of the sun protection factor (SPF)".
  • UVAPF denotes the UVA protection factor.
  • this factor can be measured in vivo according to the "PPD" (Persistent Pigment Darkening) method, I SO-24442 :2022 protocol, and measures the skin color observed 2 to 4 hours after UVA exposure.
  • PPD Persistent Pigment Darkening
  • the evaluation of UVA protection can also be measured in vitro with a Labsphere® spectrophotometer.
  • the plate is the equipment on which the sun composition is applied.
  • PMMA polymethylmethacrylate
  • the present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method of cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, preferably the skin, comprising application of a composition according to the invention on said keratin materials.
  • composition according to the invention comprises from 4.5% to 10% by weight of 2,4- bis- ⁇ [4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl ⁇ -6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1 ,3,5-triazine
  • Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine marketed under the name TINOSORB® S by BASF or under the name PARSOL® SHIELD by DSM can be used. It can also be found in its water-dispersible form having the INCI name Bis- Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (and) Acrylates/C12-22 Alkyl Methacrylate Copolymer, under the trade name TINOSORB® S LiteAqua from BASF.
  • the composition according to the invention preferably comprises from 5% to 9% by weight, preferably from 5.5% to 8% by weight, preferably from 5.7% to 7% by weight of 2,4-bis- ⁇ [4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl ⁇ -6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1 ,3,5-triazine (INCI name: Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine) with respect to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention comprises from 5% to 25% of zinc oxide with respect to the total weight of the composition.
  • Zinc oxide is an inorganic UV filter.
  • the invention is presented in the form of particles with an average elementary particle size of less than or equal to 0.5 pm, preferably between 0.005 and 0.5 pm, and even more preferably between 0.01 and 0.2 pm, even better between 0.01 and 0.1 pm, and more specifically between 0.015 and 0.05 pm.
  • the zinc oxide particles are pigments which can be coated or uncoated.
  • the coated pigments are pigments having undergone one or more chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and/or mechanical surface treatments with compounds such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminum salts of fatty acids, metal (titanium or aluminum) alkoxides, polyethylene, silicones, hydrated silica, proteins (collagen, elastin), alkanolamines, silicon oxides, triethoxycaprylylsilane, oxides of metals or sodium hexametaphosphate.
  • compounds such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminum salts of fatty acids, metal (titanium or aluminum) alkoxides, polyethylene, silicones, hydrated silica, proteins (collagen, elastin), alkanolamines, silicon oxides,
  • Uncoated zinc oxide pigments are for example:
  • Nanophase Technologies those marketed under the trade name "NanoArc® Zinc Oxide” by Nanophase Technologies;
  • Coated zinc oxide pigments are for example:
  • H-Me-Si hydrogen dimethicone
  • the ZnO coating comprises at least hydrated silica.
  • the composition comprises preferably from 5% to 20% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 5% to 15% by weight of zinc oxide, preferably from 5% to 10% by weight.
  • composition according to the invention comprises less than 3% of other UV filter(s) with respect to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight of other UV filter(s) with respect to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention is totally free of other UV filter(s).
  • UV filter(s) refers to UV filters different from zinc oxide and Bis- Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine. These other UV filter(s) can be chosen from lipophilic organic UV filters, hydrophilic organic UV filters and inorganic UV filters.
  • lipophilic UV filter refers to any organic cosmetic or dermatological compound that filters UV radiation that can be completely dissolved in the molecular state in a liquid fatty phase or be solubilized in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid fatty phase.
  • the lipophilic organic filters are particularly chosen among cinnamic compounds; anthranilate compounds; salicylic compounds, dibenzoylmethane compounds, benzylidene camphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; p,p-diphenylacrylate compounds; triazine compounds different from Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine; benzotriazole compounds; benzalmalonate compounds particularly those cited in the patent US5624663; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazoline compounds; bis-benzoazolyl compounds as described in patents EP669323 and US 2,463,264; methylene bis- (hydroxyphenyl benzotriazole) compounds as described in applications US5,237,071 , US 5,166,355, GB2303549, DE 197 26 184 and EP893119; benzoxazole compounds as described in patent applications EP0832642, EP1027883, EP1300137 and DE10162844; filter polymers
  • the lipophilic organic filter(s) are chosen from among salicylic compounds, dibenzoylmethane compounds, benzylidene camphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; triazine compounds different from Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine; benzotriazole compounds; and mixtures thereof.
  • hydrophilic organic UV filter refers, for the purposes of the present invention, to a water-soluble organic UV filter or a water-dispersible organic filter.
  • water-soluble UV filter refers to any organic filter that can be completely dissolved in molecular form in a liquid aqueous phase, or be dissolved in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid aqueous phase.
  • water-dispersible organic filter refers to any organic filter capable of forming in a liquid aqueous phase a homogeneous suspension of particular of median size by volume of less than 100 microns. The median size by volume is determined by laser diffraction granulometry.
  • the inorganic UV filters that can be used are metal oxide pigments, different from zinc oxide. More preferably, the inorganic UV filters can be chosen particularly from among titanium, iron, zirconium and cerium oxides or mixtures thereof.
  • Such metal oxide pigments coated or uncoated, are described in particular in patent application EP-A-0 518 773.
  • composition according to the invention can comprise at least one aqueous phase.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least water.
  • the aqueous phase can comprise at least one other organic solvent soluble in water, at 25°C, chosen for example from among:
  • C1-C4 monoalkanol means any saturated, linear or branched alkane compound with 1 to 4 carbon atoms and a single hydroxyl (OH) function.
  • the C1-C4 monoalkanols present in the compositions according to the invention can be chosen from among methanol, ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, butanol or mixtures thereof. In particular, the choice will be ethanol;
  • polyols particularly with 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, diglycerol, propyleneglycol, isoprene glycol, dipropyleneglycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1 ,3-propanediol, pentylene glycol, simple sugars, water-soluble polyalkyleneglycols; and
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one polyol, preferably chosen from among glycerol, 1 ,3-propanediol and mixtures thereof.
  • compositions are generally present in concentrations ranging from 0.5 to 40% by weight, more preferably from 3 to 30%, and preferably from 5% to 10% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition preferably comprises from 20 to 90% by weight of water with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 30 to 90% by weight, preferably from 40 to 70% by weight.
  • composition according to the invention can comprise at least one thickening polymer.
  • these polymers are water-soluble, water-dispersible or water-swellable.
  • xanthan gum sclerotium gum, carob gum, or cellulose and derivatives thereof such as hydroxyethylcelluose.
  • cross-linked homopolymers of acrylic acid mention can be made of those crosslinked by an allyl alcohol ether in the sugar series, for example such as those sold under the names CARBOPOL 980, 981 , 954, 2984 and 5984 by NOVEON or products sold under the names SYNTHALEN M and SYNTHALEN K by 3 VSA. These polymers are also referred to as carbomers.
  • an acrylic acid homopolymer that is at least partially neutralized is used.
  • the homopolymer used in this invention is chosen particularly from among sodium polyacrylates and potassium polyacrylates. Sodium polyacrylate is used in preference.
  • Acrylic polymers that are neutralized before their use include for example:
  • Cosmedia SP® containing 90% dry substance and 10% water
  • Cosmedia SPL® in inverse emulsion containing about 60% dry active substance, an oil (hydrogenated polydecene) and a surfactant (PPG-5 Laureth-5), both sold by Cognis;
  • - partially neutralized sodium polyacrylates particularly in the form of an inverse emulsion comprising at least one polar oil, for example that sold under the trade name Luvigel® EM by BASF; and
  • An acrylic acid homopolymer that has not been previously neutralized can also be used, that is then partially or completely neutralized by any appropriate means and particularly by the addition of any base such as soda, potash, an alkanolamine such as triethanolamine. This results particularly in sodium polyacrylates. Potassium polyacrylates are also suitable for this invention.
  • C1 -C6 cross-linked copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and alkyl acrylate acid mention can be made of the product sold under the trade name VISCOATEX 538C by COATEX which is a C1 -C4 cross-linked copolymer of (meth)acrylic and ethyl acrylate acid in an aqueous dispersion at 38% of active material, or the product sold under the trade name ACULYN 33 by ROHM & HAAS which is a cross-linked copolymer of acrylic acid and ethyl acrylate acid in aqueous dispersion at 28% of active substance.
  • the homopolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methyl-propane sulfonic acid (AMPS®, Lubrizol monomer) or salts thereof can be optionally cross-linked.
  • AMPS® 2-acrylamido-2-methyl-propane sulfonic acid
  • Such a homopolymer can have a number average molecular weight ranging from 1 ,000 to 20,000,000 g/mole, preferably ranging from 20,000 to 5,000,000 and even more preferably from 100,000 to 1 ,500,000 g/mole.
  • 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane-sulfonic acid and its partially or totally neutralized forms are used.
  • the cross-linking agents can be chosen from among olefinic polyunsaturation compounds routinely used for cross-linking polymers obtained by radical polymerization.
  • cross-linking agents mention can be made for example of divinylbenzene, diallylic ether, dipropyleneglycol-diallylether, polyglycoldiallylethers, triethyleneglycol-divinylether, hydroquinone-diallyl-ether, di(meth)acrylate of ethyleneglycol or tetraethyleneglycol, trimethylol propane triacrylate, methylene-bis- acrylamide, methylene-bis-methacrylamide, triallylamine, triallylcyanurate, diallylmaleate, tetraallylethylenediamine, tetra-allyloxy-ethane, trimethylolpropane-diallylether, allyl (meth)acrylate, allyl alcohol ether in the sugar series, or other
  • the cross-linking agent is chosen from methylene-bis-acrylamide, allyl methacrylate or trimethylol propane triacrylate (TMPTA).
  • TMPTA trimethylol propane triacrylate
  • the degree of cross-linking generally ranges from 0.01 to 10% in moles and more particularly from 0.2 to 2% in moles relative to the polymer.
  • the homopolymer only comprises monomers with a sulfonic group and, if it is cross-linked, one or several cross-linking agents.
  • Preferred homopolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane-sulfonic acid are generally characterized in that they comprise the following, randomly distributed: a) from 90 to 99.9% by weight of structural units with the following general formula:
  • X + designates a proton, an alkaline metal cation, an alkaline-earth cation or the ammonium ion, at most 10% mol of X + cations may consist of H + protons; and cross-linking units from at least one monomer having at least two olefinic double bonds, the proportions by weight being defined with respect to the total weight of the polymer.
  • the more particularly preferred homopoiymers according to the invention comprise from 98 to 99.5% by weight of structural units with formula (I) above and from 0.2 to 2% by weight of cross-linking units.
  • the polymer can also be an amphiphilic homopolymer (or modified hydrophobic homopolymer) chosen from among statistical amphiphilic polymers of 2-acrylamido-2- methylpropane-sulfonic acid modified by reaction with an n-monoalkylamine or a C6-C22 di-n-alkylamine, such as those described in document WO-A-OO/31154, that are grafted homopoiymers.
  • an amphiphilic homopolymer or modified hydrophobic homopolymer chosen from among statistical amphiphilic polymers of 2-acrylamido-2- methylpropane-sulfonic acid modified by reaction with an n-monoalkylamine or a C6-C22 di-n-alkylamine, such as those described in document WO-A-OO/31154, that are grafted homopoiymers.
  • the copolymers of acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonic acid or salts thereof and of one or more non-ionic monomers can be cross-linked or non-cross-linked.
  • the cross-linking agents can be chosen from among olefinic polyunsaturation compounds routinely used for cross-linking polymers obtained by radical polymerization. Such agents are described above.
  • the cross-linking agent is chosen from methylene-bis-acrylamide, allyl methacrylate or trimethylol propane triacrylate (TMPTA).
  • TMPTA trimethylol propane triacrylate
  • the degree of cross-linking generally ranges from 0.01 to 10% in moles and more particularly from 0.2 to 2% in moles relative to the polymer.
  • copolymers according to the invention are obtained from AMPS® (Lubrizol monomer) and one or more non-ionic hydrophilic or hydrophobic monomers with ethylene unsaturation and, if they are cross-linked, one or more cross-linking agents such as those defined above.
  • AMPS® Lubrizol monomer
  • non-ionic hydrophilic or hydrophobic monomers with ethylene unsaturation and, if they are cross-linked, one or more cross-linking agents such as those defined above.
  • the monomer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid of the copolymer contained in the composition according to the invention is in free form or is partially or completely neutralized by an inorganic base (soda, potash, ammonia) or an organic base such as mono-, di-, or tri-ethanolamine, an aminomethylpropanediol, N-methyl-glucamine, basic amino acids such as arginine and lysine and a mixture of these compounds.
  • an inorganic base sala, potash, ammonia
  • organic base such as mono-, di-, or tri-ethanolamine, an aminomethylpropanediol, N-methyl-glucamine, basic amino acids such as arginine and lysine and a mixture of these compounds.
  • the monomer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid is partially or completely salified in the form of an ammonium or sodium salt.
  • the monomer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid is completely salified, preferably in the form of an ammonium or sodium salt.
  • Copolymers of AMPS® contain one or more non-ionic monomers chosen from among water-soluble monomers with ethylenic unsaturation, hydrophobic monomers, or mixtures thereof.
  • non-ionic water-soluble monomers mention can be made for example of:
  • N-vinyllactams comprising a cyclic alkyl group with 4 to 9 carbon atoms such as N-vinylpyrrolidone, N-butyrolactam and N-vinylcaprolactam,
  • - R15 is chosen from among H, -CH 3 , -C2H5 or -C3H7
  • - X 2 is chosen from among -ORie type alkyl oxides wherein R 16 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, with 1 to 6 carbon atoms, possibly substituted by a halogen atom (iodine, bromine, chlorine, fluorine); a hydroxy group (-OH); ether.
  • R 16 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, with 1 to 6 carbon atoms, possibly substituted by a halogen atom (iodine, bromine, chlorine, fluorine); a hydroxy group (-OH); ether.
  • the water-soluble monomer is chosen from among acrylamide, vinylpyrrolidone, hydroxyalkyl(meth)acrylates, and more particularly vinylpyrrolidone.
  • - copolymers of AMPS® Lubrizol monomer
  • hydroxyethyl acrylate such as for example sodium AMPS®/hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer such as that used in the commercial product sold under the trade name SIMULGEL NS® by SEPPIC or under the trade name SEPINOV EMP10 by SEPPIC
  • - hydrophobically modified copolymers of AMPS® such as the copolymer known under the INCI name: - AMMONIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYLTAURATE/STEARETH-25 METHACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER) (marketed under the trade name ARISTOFLEX HMS by CLARIANT.
  • the thickening polymer is sodium AMPS®/hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer.
  • concentration of thickening polymer i.e., of active substance generally ranges from 0.05 to 10% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 1% by weight.
  • compositions according to the invention can be in the form of gel, or in the form of emulsion, particularly oil-in-water emulsion.
  • composition according to the invention when in the form of oil-in-water emulsion, it comprises an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase.
  • oil phase refers to a phase that is liquid at 20-25°C and at a pressure of 1 .01325 10 5 Pa. Such an “oily phase” generally comprises at least one oil.
  • oil denotes any fatty substance that is in liquid form at ambient temperature (20 to 25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm of Hg).
  • the composition according to the invention comprises an oily phase.
  • the composition according to the invention is an oil-in-water emulsion.
  • the quantity of oily phase can range for example from 1 to 50% by weight, preferably from
  • the oily phase can comprise at least one oil, particularly a cosmetic oil. It can further contain other fats.
  • oils suitable for use in the composition according to the invention mention can be made for example of:
  • liquid fatty acid triglycerides having from
  • heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides or, for example, sunflower, corn, soybean, pumpkin, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor, avocado oils, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the trade names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel, coco-caprylate/caprate (esterified oil obtained from coconut oil), jojoba oil, shea butter oil;
  • esters and synthetic esters in particular of fatty acids, such as oils having formulas R1 COOR2 and R1 OR2 wherein R1 is the residue of a fatty acid having from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R2 is a hydrocarbon chain, branched or not, containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, such as for example Purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, ethyl- 2-hexyl palmitate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octylhydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate; heptanoates, octanoates, decan
  • silicone oils such as polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS), optionally volatile with a linear or cyclic silicone chain, liquid or pasty at ambient temperature, particularly cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl pendant or silicon chain-end groups, groups having 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenyl-siloxanes, diphenyl-dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethyl-siloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes; or
  • composition according to the invention can comprise other ingredient(s) in the oily phase.
  • additional ingredients can be chosen from among other fatty substances such as waxes, lipophilic polymers such as semi-crystalline polymers and mixtures thereof.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one semi-crystalline polymer.
  • FSCC functionalized side chain crystalline polymers
  • SCC side chain crystalline polymers
  • poly C10-30 alkyl acrylate TEGO SP 13-1 or TEGO SP 13-6
  • Behenyl Acrylate/Hydroxyethylacrylate copolymers and Stearyl Acrylate/Hydroxyethylacrylate copolymers.
  • composition according to the invention comprises at least one lipophilic polymer comprising monomeric units of formula (A) and (B): [Chem 3] wherein:
  • Ri independently from one another, are chosen from among alkyl or alkenyl radicals; where at least 60% by weight of the Ri groups are radicals chosen from among stearyl and behenyl radicals, the percentage by weight being with respect to the sum of all the Ri groups present in the polymer; the weight ratio of the sum of all the hydroxyethyl acrylate units over the sum of all the acrylate units carrying the Ri ranges from 1 :30 to 1 :1 ; and the sum of the total of units A and B is at least 95% by weight of the total weight of the polymer.
  • Ri consists of alkyl radicals, preferably of C16-C22 alkyl radicals, and more preferably of stearyl (C18) radicals or of behenyl (C22) radicals.
  • At least 70% by weight of the Ri groups are stearyl or behenyl radicals, preferably at least 80% by weight, and more preferably at least 90% by weight.
  • all the Ri groups are behenyl radicals.
  • all the Ri groups are stearyl radicals.
  • said weight ratio ranges from 1 :15 to 1 :1 , preferably ranges from 1 :10 to 1 :4.
  • the polymeric units present in the polymer consist of units (A) and (B) described above.
  • the polymer has a number average molecular weight Mn ranging from 2000 to 9000 g/mol, preferably ranging from 5000 to 9000 g/mole.
  • the number average molecular weight can be measured with the gel permeation chromatography method, for example according to the method described in the example hereinafter.
  • the polymer has a melting point ranging from 40°C to 70°C, and preferably ranging from 45°C to 67°C.
  • the melting point is measured by differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), for example according to the method described in the example hereinafter.
  • the polymer when the polymer is such that at least 60% by weight of the R1 groups are stearyl radicals, then the polymer generally has a melting point ranging from 40 to 60°C, and preferably ranging from 45 to 55°C.
  • the polymer when the polymer is such that at least 60% by weight of the R1 groups are behenyl radicals, then the polymer generally has a melting point ranging from 60 to 70°C, and preferably ranging from 63 to 67°C.
  • the polymerization can be conducted according to known methods, such as polymerization in solution or in emulsion.
  • the polymerization is for example described in the document US 2007/0264204.
  • the lipophilic polymer(s) used within the scope of the invention and as described above can be present in the composition in an active substance quantity ranging from 0.05 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, and better from 0.2 to 2% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention can comprise at least one surfactant, preferably chosen from among non-ionic surfactants.
  • the surfactant is chosen from among polyethoxylated fatty alcohols.
  • the fatty alcohol is preferably a C16-C22 fatty alcohol including 2 to 100 ethylene oxide units.
  • the fatty chain of the alcohol can be chosen particularly from among stearyl, behenyl, arachidyl, palmityl, cetyl units and mixtures thereof, and preferably a stearyl chain.
  • the number of ethylene oxide units can range from 2 to 50, preferably from 2 to 30, and better from 2 to 25.
  • the surfactant is chosen from among stearyl alcohol including 2 ethylene oxide units (steareth-2), stearyl alcohol including 20 ethylene oxide units (steareth-20) and mixtures thereof.
  • the composition comprises a mixture of steareth-2 and steareth-20.
  • the surfactant(s) can be present in the composition according to the invention in a total content ranging from 0.1 % to 7% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from 0.5% to 5% by weight, and more preferably ranging from 1% to 4% by weight.
  • composition according to the invention can comprise at least one photostabilizer.
  • photostabilizer denotes an organic compound which prevents UV filters from undergoing a degradation process during UV radiation or by destabilization due to the presence of other compounds, which can be for example other UV filters.
  • the photostabilizer protects the UV filter either by structural or geometric means, or by dissipating the energy of the UV filter in order to reduce the possibility of destabilization.
  • the photostabilizer is chosen from among butyloctyl salicylate, benzotriazolyl dodecyl p-cresol, ethylhexyl methoxycrylene, polyester-8, diethylhexyl syringylidenemalonate, trimethoxybenzylidene pentanedione, diethylhexyl 2,6- naphthalate, polyester-25 and mixtures thereof.
  • Butyloctyl salicylate is a synthetic ester of salicylic acid and 2-butyloctanol. It is in particular marketed under the name HallBrite BHB® by Hallstar.
  • Benzotriazolyl dodecyl p-cresol is marketed by BASF under the name Tinogard® TL.
  • Ethylhexyl methoxycrylene is marketed by Hallstar under the name SolaStay® S1 .
  • Polyester-8 is a copolymer of adipic acid and of neopentyl glycol terminated by cyanodiphenyl propenoic acid having a molecular weight of approximately 1900 daltons. It is in particular marketed under the name Polycrylene® by Hallstar.
  • Diethylhexyl syringylidenemalonate is a stabilizer for light-sensitive ingredients. It has the formula:
  • Oxynex® ST Liquid It is in particular marketed by Merck KGaA under the name Oxynex® ST Liquid.
  • Trimethoxybenzylidene pentanedione is marketed under the name Synoxyl HSS by Sytheon.
  • Diethylhexyl 2,6-naphthalate is a photostabilizer and an emollient. It is marketed by Symrise under the name Corapan TQ.
  • Polyester-25 is a bis-methoxycrylene/octyldodecyl adipic acid/methylpropanediol copolymer. It is marketed by Hallstar under the name SolaStay® P1 .
  • the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of photostabilizers, preferably a mixture of ethylhexyl methoxycrylene and diethylhexyl syringylidenemalonate, optionally with butyloctyl salicylate.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises less than 1% by weight of butyloctyl salicylate, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, preferably less than 0.3% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention is totally free of butyloctyl salicylate.
  • the quantity of photostabilizer(s) can range for example from 0.5 to 15% by weight, preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 1 .3% to 6% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention further comprises cosmetically acceptable agents and/or excipients, such as preservatives, sequestrants, acids and/or bases.
  • cosmetically acceptable means compatible with the skin and/or integuments thereof, having a pleasant color, odor and texture and not giving rise to unacceptable discomfort (tingling, tightness, redness), liable to dissuade the consumer from using the composition.
  • the ethylene diamine disuccinic acid is a compound of the following formula: [Chem 5]
  • the ethylene diamine disuccinic acid salt is selected from alkali metal salts, such as potassium and sodium salts, ammonium salts, and amine salts.
  • alkali metal salts of ethylenediamine disuccinic acid are more specifically preferred.
  • the ethylene diamine disuccinic acid salt used according to the invention is trisodium ethylene diamine disuccinate.
  • such a compound is that marketed under the trade name Natrlquest® E30 by Innospec Active Chemicals, or else that marketed under the trade name Octaquest E30® by Octel Performance Chemicals.
  • the present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method of cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, preferably the skin, comprising application of a composition according to the invention on said keratin materials.
  • a non-therapeutic method of cosmetic treatment of keratin materials preferably the skin
  • Such a method is intended particularly to protect keratin materials, and particularly the skin, against UV radiation.
  • the temperature is ambient temperature (20°C) expressed in degrees Celsius unless mentioned otherwise, and the pressure is atmospheric pressure, unless mentioned otherwise.
  • the sample is prepared by producing a solution of polymer at 10 mg/ml in tetrahydrofuran.
  • the sample is placed in an oven at 54°C for 10 minutes then in an oscillating stirrer for 60 minutes to assist dissolution. After visual inspection, the sample appears to be fully dissolved in the solvent.
  • the sample prepared was analyzed using to 300 x 7.5 mm polypore columns (manufactured by Agilent Technologies, a Waters 2695 chromatographic system, a tetrahydrofuran mobile phase and a detection by refractive index.
  • the sample was filtered on a 0.45 pm Nylon filter before being injected into the liquid chromatograph.
  • the standards used for the calibration are Easi Vial narrow polystyrene (PS) standards from Agilent Technologies.
  • Polystyrene standards ranging from 2,520,000 to 162 Daltons were used for the calibration.
  • the system is equipped with a PSS SECcurity 1260 Rl detector.
  • the polystyrene calibration curve was used to determine the average molecular weight.
  • the registration of the diagram and the determination of the different molecular weights was performed by the Win GPC Unichrom 81 program.
  • This method describes the general procedure for determining the melting point of polymers by differential scanning calorimetry. This method is based on the ASTM E791 and ASTM D 34182 standards and the DSC calibration is performed according to the ASTM E 9672 standard.
  • Example 1 Measurement of SPF and UVAPF of comparative compositions and composition according to the invention
  • Comparative compositions C1 and C2, and composition according to the invention F1 were prepared with the following protocol:
  • phase B1 Heat the fatty phase B1 to 80°C. Add phase B2 (ZnO) and allow to homogenize for 20 min with a rotor stator, then keep at 65°C; phase B is obtained.
  • phase B2 ZnO
  • phase A1 Place aqueous phase A1 in the production tank under stirring, heat to 65°C. Add phase A2, the mixture must have increased in viscosity; phase A is obtained.
  • the sun protection factor is determined according to the "in vitro" method described by M. Pissavini et al in International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 40, 263-268 (2018), based on the initial absorbance.
  • UVAPF in vitro UVA protection factor
  • a sun protection product against UVA radiation is calculated mathematically by in vitro spectral modeling according to the ISO 24443:2012 (Fr) protocol.
  • Each composition is applied on six rough PMMA plates, in the form of a homogeneous and even deposit at a rate of 1 mg/cm2.
  • Each composition is spread using an automated robot which performs regular and uniform movements on three plates referred to as HD6 (molded granular plates) and three plates referred to as SB6 (sanded granular plates).
  • the plate is weighed before and after spreading. Once the six plates are spread, they are left to stand in Thermo-Masters in the dark at 25°C for 30 minutes.
  • the measurements are made thanks to the UV-1000S spectrophotometer from Labsphere.
  • Nine measurements per plate are performed, then are analyzed using an Excel spreadsheet providing the SPF and UVAPF values of the measured composition.
  • Associating ZnO and BEMT produces a synergistic effect making it possible to obtain an unexpected efficacy greater than that predicted by the sum of the efficacy of each filter taken individually: the SPF and the UVAPF are greater than the expected value in the light of the intrinsic efficacy of each filter.
  • Example 2 Measurement of dose effect of comparative compositions and compositions according to the invention
  • Comparative compositions A1* to A5* below were prepared as described in example 1 .
  • compositions B1 to B4 according to the invention below were prepared as described in example 1 .
  • composition B2 according to the invention shows a SPF in vitro of 71.5, which is higher than the SPF in vitro of 69.8 of composition F1 according to the invention (with 3% of butyloctyl salicylate).

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Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition, preferably cosmetic, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: from 4.5% to 10% by weight of 2,4-bis-{[4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine (INCI name: Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine) with respect to the total weight of the composition, and from 5% to 25% of zinc oxide with respect to the total weight of the composition, the composition comprising less than 3% of other UV filter(s) with respect to the total weight of the composition. It also relates to a non-therapeutic method of cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, preferably the skin, comprising application of a composition according to the invention on said keratin materials.

Description

Cosmetic composition with zinc oxide and Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine
The present invention relates to a composition, preferably cosmetic, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, zinc oxide and 2,4-bis-{[4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]- phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1 ,3,5-triazine (INCI name: Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine), in specific quantities, said composition being substantially free of other UV filter(s).
It is known that radiation with wavelengths between 280 nm and 400 nm enables tanning of the human epidermis, while radiation with wavelengths between 280 and 320 nm, known as UVB rays, impedes the development of a natural tan. Exposure can also lead to a prejudicial change in the biomechanical properties of the epidermis, resulting in the appearance of wrinkles leading to premature aging of the skin (i.e., photoaging).
It is also known that UVA rays with a wavelength of between 320 and 400 nm penetrate into the skin into the skin more deeply than UVB rays. UVA rays cause immediate and persistent tanning of the skin. Daily exposure to UVA rays, even of short duration, under normal conditions, can damage collagen and elastin fibers, which results in a modification to the microrelief of the skin, the appearance of wrinkles and unequal pigmentation (spots, uneven complexion).
Numerous studies demonstrate the need for effect protection against UVA and/or UVB rays to prevent sunburn and/or photoaging.
However, many consumers cast doubt on the safety of sun products, which restricts the use thereof. Zinc oxide in particular enjoys a very good reputation and is increasingly used.
In order to obtain a high-protection product, it is moreover generally necessary to combine a substantial number of sun filters and/or high filter contents to achieve high levels of filtering efficacy.
However, high UV filter contents are not conducive to easy preparation of compositions that have a stabilized and pleasing texture.
Therefore, there is a need to offer consumers high-efficacy sun protection products, containing a reduced number of sun filters at the lowest possible concentration, while retaining good cosmetic agreeableness. This invention meets this need.
In particular, surprisingly, the Applicant discovered that a composition comprising the combination of zinc oxide and 2,4-bis-{[4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-(4- methoxyphenyl)-1 ,3,5-triazine (INCI name: Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine; BEMT), with no other sun filter, in specific quantities, has a synergistic effect in terms of sun filtration, and thus an unexpected efficacy.
The present invention thus relates to a composition, preferably cosmetic, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: from 4.5% to 10% by weight of 2,4-bis-{[4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-(4- methoxyphenyl)-1 ,3,5-triazine (INCI name: Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine) with respect to the total weight of the composition, and from 5% to 25% of zinc oxide with respect to the total weight of the composition, the composition comprising less than 3% of other UV filter(s) with respect to the total weight of the composition.
"Physiologically acceptable medium" means a medium compatible with keratin materials. "Keratin materials" in particular means the skin, scalp, keratin fibers, such as the eyelashes, the eyebrows, hair on the head and body, the nails, the mucosa such as the lips, and more particularly the skin and the mucosa (body, face, eye contour, eyelids, lips, preferably body, face and lips).
Hereinafter, and unless indicated otherwise, the bounds of a range of values are included in this range, in particular in the expressions "between" and "ranging from ... to ...".
Moreover, the expressions "at least one" and "at least" used in the present description are respectively equivalent to the expressions "one or more" and "greater than or equal".
Within the scope of the invention, the filtering efficacy is evaluated using the SPF and UVAPF evaluation.
For the purposes of the present invention, SPF (Sun Protection Factor) means the sun protection factor, which measures the level of protection against UVB. The SPF value corresponds to the ratio between the minimum period required to obtain sunburn with a sunscreen composition and that without product. More specifically, the term "SPF" is defined in the article A new substrate to measure sunscreen protection factors throughout the ultraviolet spectrum, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 40, 127-133 (May/June 1989). The evaluation of the SPF (Sun Protection Factor) can be carried out in vitro with a Labsphere® spectrophotometer. The plate is the equipment on which the sun composition is applied. For this protocol, polymethylmethacrylate (PMMA) plates have proven to be ideal. A particular protocol, described as an example, is currently obtaining ISO approval under the name ISO Committee Draft 23675.
The evaluation of the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) of the compositions can also be performed in-vivo according to the ISO-24444:2019 protocol "Cosmetics-Sun protection test methods-ln-vivo determination of the sun protection factor (SPF)".
For the purposes of the present invention, UVAPF denotes the UVA protection factor. In particular, this factor can be measured in vivo according to the "PPD" (Persistent Pigment Darkening) method, I SO-24442 :2022 protocol, and measures the skin color observed 2 to 4 hours after UVA exposure. The evaluation of UVA protection can also be measured in vitro with a Labsphere® spectrophotometer. The plate is the equipment on which the sun composition is applied. For this protocol, polymethylmethacrylate (PMMA) plates have proven to be ideal. The ISO 24443:2021 protocol describes such an in vitro method.
The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method of cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, preferably the skin, comprising application of a composition according to the invention on said keratin materials.
Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine
The composition according to the invention comprises from 4.5% to 10% by weight of 2,4- bis-{[4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1 ,3,5-triazine
(INCI name: Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine) with respect to the total weight of the composition.
By way of example, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine marketed under the name TINOSORB® S by BASF or under the name PARSOL® SHIELD by DSM can be used. It can also be found in its water-dispersible form having the INCI name Bis- Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (and) Acrylates/C12-22 Alkyl Methacrylate Copolymer, under the trade name TINOSORB® S LiteAqua from BASF.
The composition according to the invention preferably comprises from 5% to 9% by weight, preferably from 5.5% to 8% by weight, preferably from 5.7% to 7% by weight of 2,4-bis-{[4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1 ,3,5-triazine (INCI name: Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine) with respect to the total weight of the composition.
Zinc oxide
The composition according to the invention comprises from 5% to 25% of zinc oxide with respect to the total weight of the composition.
Zinc oxide is an inorganic UV filter.
According to a particular embodiment of the invention, it is presented in the form of particles with an average elementary particle size of less than or equal to 0.5 pm, preferably between 0.005 and 0.5 pm, and even more preferably between 0.01 and 0.2 pm, even better between 0.01 and 0.1 pm, and more specifically between 0.015 and 0.05 pm.
The zinc oxide particles are pigments which can be coated or uncoated.
The coated pigments are pigments having undergone one or more chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and/or mechanical surface treatments with compounds such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminum salts of fatty acids, metal (titanium or aluminum) alkoxides, polyethylene, silicones, hydrated silica, proteins (collagen, elastin), alkanolamines, silicon oxides, triethoxycaprylylsilane, oxides of metals or sodium hexametaphosphate.
Uncoated zinc oxide pigments are for example:
- those marketed under the trade name "Z-COTE®" by BASF;
- those marketed under the trade name "NanoArc® Zinc Oxide" by Nanophase Technologies;
- those marketed under the trade name "MZ-500", "MZ-300", "MZ-200" or "MZ-150" by TAYCA; or
- those marketed under the trade name Solaveil MZP3 by CRODA.
Coated zinc oxide pigments are for example:
- ZnO coated with polymethylhydrogen siloxane;
- "Solaveil™ CZ-100" from CRODA dispersed in C12-15 alkyl benzonate (INCI: Zinc Oxide (and) C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate (and) Poly hydroxystearic Acid (and) Isostearic Acid);
- those marketed under the trade name "DAITOPERSION Zn-60VA®" by Daito Kasei (dispersions in C9-12 alkane with a dispersing agent); - those marketed under the trade name "SPD-Z5®" by Shin-Etsu (ZnO coated with silicone- grafted acrylic polymer, dispersed in cyclodimethylsiloxane);
- ZnO coated with hydrated silica, such as that marketed by TAYCA under the trade name "MZ-500HP";
-ZnO coated with hydrated silica, triethoxysilylethyl polydimethylsiloxyethyl hexyl dimethicone and hydrogen dimethicone (H-Me-Si), such as that marketed by TAYCA under the trade name MZ-510 HPSX;
- ZnO coated with stearic acid or isostearic acid, such as those marketed by TAYCA under the trade name "MZ-505T", "MZY-505EX" or "MZY-304EX";
- ZnO coated with a silicone oil, such as those marketed by TAYCA under the trade name "MZX-510HPS", "MZY-505S", "MZY-510M3S", "MZ-505M", "MZY-303S", "MZY- 303M", "MZY-203S", "MZY-210M3S" or "MZY-153S"; or
- ZnO coated with triethoxycaprylylsilane, such as those marketed by BASF under the trade name Z-COTE HP1 , or by TAYCA under the trade name "MZX-508OTS", "MZY-203OTS" or "MZX-304OTS" or by DSM under the trade name PARSOL ZX, or by CRODA under the trade name Solaveil MZP7.
According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the ZnO coating comprises at least hydrated silica.
The composition comprises preferably from 5% to 20% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 5% to 15% by weight of zinc oxide, preferably from 5% to 10% by weight.
Other UV filter(s)
The composition according to the invention comprises less than 3% of other UV filter(s) with respect to the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight of other UV filter(s) with respect to the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention is totally free of other UV filter(s).
The term "other UV filter(s)" refers to UV filters different from zinc oxide and Bis- Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine. These other UV filter(s) can be chosen from lipophilic organic UV filters, hydrophilic organic UV filters and inorganic UV filters.
The term "lipophilic UV filter" refers to any organic cosmetic or dermatological compound that filters UV radiation that can be completely dissolved in the molecular state in a liquid fatty phase or be solubilized in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid fatty phase.
The lipophilic organic filters are particularly chosen among cinnamic compounds; anthranilate compounds; salicylic compounds, dibenzoylmethane compounds, benzylidene camphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; p,p-diphenylacrylate compounds; triazine compounds different from Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine; benzotriazole compounds; benzalmalonate compounds particularly those cited in the patent US5624663; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazoline compounds; bis-benzoazolyl compounds as described in patents EP669323 and US 2,463,264; methylene bis- (hydroxyphenyl benzotriazole) compounds as described in applications US5,237,071 , US 5,166,355, GB2303549, DE 197 26 184 and EP893119; benzoxazole compounds as described in patent applications EP0832642, EP1027883, EP1300137 and DE10162844; filter polymers and filter silicones such as those described particularly in application WO93/04665; a-alkylstyrene-derived dimers as described in patent application DE19855649; 4,4-diarylbutadiene compounds as described in applications EP0967200, DE19746654, DE19755649, EP-A-1008586, EP1133980 and EP133981 and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the lipophilic organic filter(s) are chosen from among salicylic compounds, dibenzoylmethane compounds, benzylidene camphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; triazine compounds different from Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine; benzotriazole compounds; and mixtures thereof.
The term hydrophilic organic UV filter refers, for the purposes of the present invention, to a water-soluble organic UV filter or a water-dispersible organic filter.
The term "water-soluble UV filter" refers to any organic filter that can be completely dissolved in molecular form in a liquid aqueous phase, or be dissolved in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid aqueous phase.
The term "water-dispersible organic filter" refers to any organic filter capable of forming in a liquid aqueous phase a homogeneous suspension of particular of median size by volume of less than 100 microns. The median size by volume is determined by laser diffraction granulometry.
The inorganic UV filters that can be used are metal oxide pigments, different from zinc oxide. More preferably, the inorganic UV filters can be chosen particularly from among titanium, iron, zirconium and cerium oxides or mixtures thereof.
Such metal oxide pigments, coated or uncoated, are described in particular in patent application EP-A-0 518 773. As commercial pigments, mention can be made of the products sold by CRODA, TAYCA, and MERCK.
Figure imgf000008_0001
The composition according to the invention can comprise at least one aqueous phase.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least water.
The aqueous phase can comprise at least one other organic solvent soluble in water, at 25°C, chosen for example from among:
- C1-C4 monoalkanols. The term “C1-C4 monoalkanol" means any saturated, linear or branched alkane compound with 1 to 4 carbon atoms and a single hydroxyl (OH) function. The C1-C4 monoalkanols present in the compositions according to the invention can be chosen from among methanol, ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, butanol or mixtures thereof. In particular, the choice will be ethanol;
- polyols particularly with 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, diglycerol, propyleneglycol, isoprene glycol, dipropyleneglycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1 ,3-propanediol, pentylene glycol, simple sugars, water-soluble polyalkyleneglycols; and
- mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one polyol, preferably chosen from among glycerol, 1 ,3-propanediol and mixtures thereof.
They are generally present in concentrations ranging from 0.5 to 40% by weight, more preferably from 3 to 30%, and preferably from 5% to 10% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
The composition preferably comprises from 20 to 90% by weight of water with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 30 to 90% by weight, preferably from 40 to 70% by weight.
Figure imgf000009_0001
The composition according to the invention can comprise at least one thickening polymer. According to a particular embodiment, these polymers are water-soluble, water-dispersible or water-swellable.
Among the thickening polymers that can be used, mention can be made of natural polymers, cross-linked homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid, homopolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methyl-propane sulfonic acid, cross-linked or not, and salts thereof, and copolymers of acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonic acid or salts thereof and one or more non-ionic monomers, cross-linked or not, alone or in mixtures.
Among natural polymers, mention can be made of xanthan gum, sclerotium gum, carob gum, or cellulose and derivatives thereof such as hydroxyethylcelluose.
Among cross-linked homopolymers of acrylic acid, mention can be made of those crosslinked by an allyl alcohol ether in the sugar series, for example such as those sold under the names CARBOPOL 980, 981 , 954, 2984 and 5984 by NOVEON or products sold under the names SYNTHALEN M and SYNTHALEN K by 3 VSA. These polymers are also referred to as carbomers.
Preferably, an acrylic acid homopolymer that is at least partially neutralized is used. The homopolymer used in this invention is chosen particularly from among sodium polyacrylates and potassium polyacrylates. Sodium polyacrylate is used in preference.
Acrylic polymers that are neutralized before their use include for example:
- sodium polyacrylates such as those marketed under the trade name Cosmedia SP® containing 90% dry substance and 10% water, or Cosmedia SPL® in inverse emulsion containing about 60% dry active substance, an oil (hydrogenated polydecene) and a surfactant (PPG-5 Laureth-5), both sold by Cognis;
- partially neutralized sodium polyacrylates, particularly in the form of an inverse emulsion comprising at least one polar oil, for example that sold under the trade name Luvigel® EM by BASF; and
- mixtures thereof.
An acrylic acid homopolymer that has not been previously neutralized can also be used, that is then partially or completely neutralized by any appropriate means and particularly by the addition of any base such as soda, potash, an alkanolamine such as triethanolamine. This results particularly in sodium polyacrylates. Potassium polyacrylates are also suitable for this invention.
Among the C1 -C6 cross-linked copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and alkyl acrylate acid, mention can be made of the product sold under the trade name VISCOATEX 538C by COATEX which is a C1 -C4 cross-linked copolymer of (meth)acrylic and ethyl acrylate acid in an aqueous dispersion at 38% of active material, or the product sold under the trade name ACULYN 33 by ROHM & HAAS which is a cross-linked copolymer of acrylic acid and ethyl acrylate acid in aqueous dispersion at 28% of active substance. Mention can be made more particularly of the cross-linked methacrylic/ethyl acrylate acid copolymer in the form of an aqueous dispersion at 30% manufactured and sold under the name CARBOPOL AQUA SF-1 by NOVEON.
The homopolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methyl-propane sulfonic acid (AMPS®, Lubrizol monomer) or salts thereof can be optionally cross-linked. Such a homopolymer can have a number average molecular weight ranging from 1 ,000 to 20,000,000 g/mole, preferably ranging from 20,000 to 5,000,000 and even more preferably from 100,000 to 1 ,500,000 g/mole.
More particularly, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane-sulfonic acid and its partially or totally neutralized forms are used.
When the polymers are cross-linked, the cross-linking agents can be chosen from among olefinic polyunsaturation compounds routinely used for cross-linking polymers obtained by radical polymerization. As examples of cross-linking agents, mention can be made for example of divinylbenzene, diallylic ether, dipropyleneglycol-diallylether, polyglycoldiallylethers, triethyleneglycol-divinylether, hydroquinone-diallyl-ether, di(meth)acrylate of ethyleneglycol or tetraethyleneglycol, trimethylol propane triacrylate, methylene-bis- acrylamide, methylene-bis-methacrylamide, triallylamine, triallylcyanurate, diallylmaleate, tetraallylethylenediamine, tetra-allyloxy-ethane, trimethylolpropane-diallylether, allyl (meth)acrylate, allyl alcohol ether in the sugar series, or other allyl- or vinyl- ethers of polyfunctional alcohols, and allyl esters of phosphoric and/or vinylphosphonic acid derivatives, or mixtures of these compounds.
According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the cross-linking agent is chosen from methylene-bis-acrylamide, allyl methacrylate or trimethylol propane triacrylate (TMPTA). The degree of cross-linking generally ranges from 0.01 to 10% in moles and more particularly from 0.2 to 2% in moles relative to the polymer. The homopolymer only comprises monomers with a sulfonic group and, if it is cross-linked, one or several cross-linking agents.
Preferred homopolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane-sulfonic acid are generally characterized in that they comprise the following, randomly distributed: a) from 90 to 99.9% by weight of structural units with the following general formula:
[Chem 1]
Figure imgf000011_0001
wherein X+ designates a proton, an alkaline metal cation, an alkaline-earth cation or the ammonium ion, at most 10% mol of X+ cations may consist of H+ protons; and cross-linking units from at least one monomer having at least two olefinic double bonds, the proportions by weight being defined with respect to the total weight of the polymer.
The more particularly preferred homopoiymers according to the invention comprise from 98 to 99.5% by weight of structural units with formula (I) above and from 0.2 to 2% by weight of cross-linking units.
As polymers of this type, mention can be made in particular of the cross-linked and neutralized homopolymer of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, marketed by Clariant under the tradename "Hostacerin AMPS®" (INCI name: Ammonium Polyacryldimethyltauramide).
The polymer can also be an amphiphilic homopolymer (or modified hydrophobic homopolymer) chosen from among statistical amphiphilic polymers of 2-acrylamido-2- methylpropane-sulfonic acid modified by reaction with an n-monoalkylamine or a C6-C22 di-n-alkylamine, such as those described in document WO-A-OO/31154, that are grafted homopoiymers.
The copolymers of acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonic acid or salts thereof and of one or more non-ionic monomers can be cross-linked or non-cross-linked. When the polymers are cross-linked, the cross-linking agents can be chosen from among olefinic polyunsaturation compounds routinely used for cross-linking polymers obtained by radical polymerization. Such agents are described above.
According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the cross-linking agent is chosen from methylene-bis-acrylamide, allyl methacrylate or trimethylol propane triacrylate (TMPTA). The degree of cross-linking generally ranges from 0.01 to 10% in moles and more particularly from 0.2 to 2% in moles relative to the polymer.
The copolymers according to the invention are obtained from AMPS® (Lubrizol monomer) and one or more non-ionic hydrophilic or hydrophobic monomers with ethylene unsaturation and, if they are cross-linked, one or more cross-linking agents such as those defined above. The monomer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid of the copolymer contained in the composition according to the invention is in free form or is partially or completely neutralized by an inorganic base (soda, potash, ammonia) or an organic base such as mono-, di-, or tri-ethanolamine, an aminomethylpropanediol, N-methyl-glucamine, basic amino acids such as arginine and lysine and a mixture of these compounds.
Preferably, the monomer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid is partially or completely salified in the form of an ammonium or sodium salt.
Preferably, the monomer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid is completely salified, preferably in the form of an ammonium or sodium salt.
Copolymers of AMPS® (Lubrizol monomer) contain one or more non-ionic monomers chosen from among water-soluble monomers with ethylenic unsaturation, hydrophobic monomers, or mixtures thereof.
Among non-ionic water-soluble monomers, mention can be made for example of:
- (meth)acrylamide,
- N-vinylacetamide and N-methyl N-vinylacetamide,
- N-vinylformamide and N-methyl N-vinylformamide,
- maleic anhydride,
- vinylamine,
- N-vinyllactams comprising a cyclic alkyl group with 4 to 9 carbon atoms such as N-vinylpyrrolidone, N-butyrolactam and N-vinylcaprolactam,
- vinyl alcohol with formula CH2=CHOH,
- water-soluble vinylic monomers with the following formula (2):
[Chem 2]
Figure imgf000013_0001
wherein:
- R15 is chosen from among H, -CH3, -C2H5 or -C3H7
- X2 is chosen from among -ORie type alkyl oxides wherein R16 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, with 1 to 6 carbon atoms, possibly substituted by a halogen atom (iodine, bromine, chlorine, fluorine); a hydroxy group (-OH); ether.
For example, mention can be made of glycidyl (meth)acrylate, hydroxyethyl (meth)acrylate, and ethylene glycol, diethyleneglycol or polyalkyleneglycol (meth)acrylates. Preferably, the water-soluble monomer is chosen from among acrylamide, vinylpyrrolidone, hydroxyalkyl(meth)acrylates, and more particularly vinylpyrrolidone.
Among copolymers of AMPS® (Lubrizol monomer) according to the invention with hydrophilic monomers, mention can for example be made of:
- copolymers of acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonic acid and vinylpyrrolidone, particularly such as the commercial product ARISTOFLEX AVC sold by CLARIANT ;
- cross-linked sodium acrylamide/acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonate copolymers such as those used in the commercial product SEPIGEL 305 (INCI name: Polyacrylamide/Ci3-c14 lsoparaffin/Laureth-7) or that used in the commercial product sold under the trade name SIMULGEL 600® (INCI name: Acrylamide I Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / Isohexadecane/ Polysorbate-80) by SEPPIC;
- copolymers of AMPS® (Lubrizol monomer) and hydroxyethyl acrylate, such as for example sodium AMPS®/hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer such as that used in the commercial product sold under the trade name SIMULGEL NS® by SEPPIC or under the trade name SEPINOV EMP10 by SEPPIC; - hydrophobically modified copolymers of AMPS® such as the copolymer known under the INCI name: - AMMONIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYLTAURATE/STEARETH-25 METHACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER) (marketed under the trade name ARISTOFLEX HMS by CLARIANT. Preferably, the thickening polymer is sodium AMPS®/hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer. The concentration of thickening polymer (i.e., of active substance) generally ranges from 0.05 to 10% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 1% by weight.
The compositions according to the invention can be in the form of gel, or in the form of emulsion, particularly oil-in-water emulsion.
When the composition according to the invention is in the form of oil-in-water emulsion, it comprises an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase.
Figure imgf000014_0001
The term "oily phase" as used for the invention refers to a phase that is liquid at 20-25°C and at a pressure of 1 .01325 105 Pa. Such an "oily phase" generally comprises at least one oil. The term "oil" denotes any fatty substance that is in liquid form at ambient temperature (20 to 25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm of Hg).
Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises an oily phase. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is an oil-in-water emulsion.
The quantity of oily phase can range for example from 1 to 50% by weight, preferably from
3 to 45% by weight, preferably from 5% to 40% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.
The oily phase can comprise at least one oil, particularly a cosmetic oil. It can further contain other fats.
By way of oils suitable for use in the composition according to the invention, mention can be made for example of:
- hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene;
- hydrocarbon oils of plant origin, such as liquid fatty acid triglycerides having from
4 to 10 carbon atoms such as heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides or, for example, sunflower, corn, soybean, pumpkin, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor, avocado oils, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the trade names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel, coco-caprylate/caprate (esterified oil obtained from coconut oil), jojoba oil, shea butter oil;
- esters and synthetic esters, in particular of fatty acids, such as oils having formulas R1 COOR2 and R1 OR2 wherein R1 is the residue of a fatty acid having from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R2 is a hydrocarbon chain, branched or not, containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, such as for example Purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, ethyl- 2-hexyl palmitate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octylhydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate; heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate or dipentaerythrityl pentaisononanoate;
- linear or branched hydrocarbons, whether mineral or synthetic, such as paraffin oils, whether volatile or not, and their derivatives, branched-chain hydrocarbon oils having from 10 to 20 carbon atoms, such as isohexadecane, isododecane, isoparaffins and mixtures thereof, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, polyisobutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as Parleam® marketed by NIPPON OIL FATS, PANALANE H-300 E marketed by AMOCO, VISEAL 20000 marketed by SYNTEAL, REWOPAL PIB 1000 marketed by WITCO, or PARLEAM LITE marketed by NOF Corporation;
- partially hydrocarbon and/or silicone fluorinated oils such as those described in the document JP-A-2-295912;
- silicone oils such as polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS), optionally volatile with a linear or cyclic silicone chain, liquid or pasty at ambient temperature, particularly cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl pendant or silicon chain-end groups, groups having 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenyl-siloxanes, diphenyl-dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethyl-siloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes; or
- mixtures thereof.
As indicated above, the composition according to the invention can comprise other ingredient(s) in the oily phase. These additional ingredients can be chosen from among other fatty substances such as waxes, lipophilic polymers such as semi-crystalline polymers and mixtures thereof.
According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one semi-crystalline polymer.
Among the semi-crystalline polymers, mention can be made of functionalized side chain crystalline polymers (FSCC) and side chain crystalline polymers (SCC). By way of example of such polymers, mention can be made of poly C10-30 alkyl acrylate (TEGO SP 13-1 or TEGO SP 13-6), Behenyl Acrylate/Hydroxyethylacrylate copolymers and Stearyl Acrylate/Hydroxyethylacrylate copolymers.
According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one lipophilic polymer comprising monomeric units of formula (A) and (B): [Chem 3]
Figure imgf000016_0001
wherein:
Ri, independently from one another, are chosen from among alkyl or alkenyl radicals; where at least 60% by weight of the Ri groups are radicals chosen from among stearyl and behenyl radicals, the percentage by weight being with respect to the sum of all the Ri groups present in the polymer; the weight ratio of the sum of all the hydroxyethyl acrylate units over the sum of all the acrylate units carrying the Ri ranges from 1 :30 to 1 :1 ; and the sum of the total of units A and B is at least 95% by weight of the total weight of the polymer.
Preferably, Ri consists of alkyl radicals, preferably of C16-C22 alkyl radicals, and more preferably of stearyl (C18) radicals or of behenyl (C22) radicals.
Preferably, at least 70% by weight of the Ri groups are stearyl or behenyl radicals, preferably at least 80% by weight, and more preferably at least 90% by weight.
According to a preferred embodiment, all the Ri groups are behenyl radicals.
According to another preferred embodiment, all the Ri groups are stearyl radicals. Preferably, said weight ratio ranges from 1 :15 to 1 :1 , preferably ranges from 1 :10 to 1 :4. Advantageously, the polymeric units present in the polymer consist of units (A) and (B) described above.
The polymer has a number average molecular weight Mn ranging from 2000 to 9000 g/mol, preferably ranging from 5000 to 9000 g/mole. The number average molecular weight can be measured with the gel permeation chromatography method, for example according to the method described in the example hereinafter.
Preferably, the polymer has a melting point ranging from 40°C to 70°C, and preferably ranging from 45°C to 67°C. The melting point is measured by differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), for example according to the method described in the example hereinafter.
According to a first embodiment, when the polymer is such that at least 60% by weight of the R1 groups are stearyl radicals, then the polymer generally has a melting point ranging from 40 to 60°C, and preferably ranging from 45 to 55°C.
According to a second embodiment, when the polymer is such that at least 60% by weight of the R1 groups are behenyl radicals, then the polymer generally has a melting point ranging from 60 to 70°C, and preferably ranging from 63 to 67°C.
The polymer used according to the invention can be prepared by polymerizing monomer of formula CH2=CH-COO-Ri, Ri having the meaning described above, and of 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate.
The polymerization can be conducted according to known methods, such as polymerization in solution or in emulsion.
The polymerization is for example described in the document US 2007/0264204.
The lipophilic polymer(s) used within the scope of the invention and as described above can be present in the composition in an active substance quantity ranging from 0.05 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, and better from 0.2 to 2% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.
Surfactants
The composition according to the invention can comprise at least one surfactant, preferably chosen from among non-ionic surfactants.
Preferably, the surfactant is chosen from among polyethoxylated fatty alcohols. The fatty alcohol is preferably a C16-C22 fatty alcohol including 2 to 100 ethylene oxide units. The fatty chain of the alcohol can be chosen particularly from among stearyl, behenyl, arachidyl, palmityl, cetyl units and mixtures thereof, and preferably a stearyl chain.
The number of ethylene oxide units can range from 2 to 50, preferably from 2 to 30, and better from 2 to 25. Preferably, the surfactant is chosen from among stearyl alcohol including 2 ethylene oxide units (steareth-2), stearyl alcohol including 20 ethylene oxide units (steareth-20) and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the composition comprises a mixture of steareth-2 and steareth-20.
The surfactant(s) can be present in the composition according to the invention in a total content ranging from 0.1 % to 7% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from 0.5% to 5% by weight, and more preferably ranging from 1% to 4% by weight.
Photostabilizer
The composition according to the invention can comprise at least one photostabilizer.
The term "photostabilizer" denotes an organic compound which prevents UV filters from undergoing a degradation process during UV radiation or by destabilization due to the presence of other compounds, which can be for example other UV filters. The photostabilizer protects the UV filter either by structural or geometric means, or by dissipating the energy of the UV filter in order to reduce the possibility of destabilization.
Preferably, the photostabilizer is chosen from among butyloctyl salicylate, benzotriazolyl dodecyl p-cresol, ethylhexyl methoxycrylene, polyester-8, diethylhexyl syringylidenemalonate, trimethoxybenzylidene pentanedione, diethylhexyl 2,6- naphthalate, polyester-25 and mixtures thereof.
Butyloctyl salicylate is a synthetic ester of salicylic acid and 2-butyloctanol. It is in particular marketed under the name HallBrite BHB® by Hallstar.
Benzotriazolyl dodecyl p-cresol is marketed by BASF under the name Tinogard® TL.
Ethylhexyl methoxycrylene is marketed by Hallstar under the name SolaStay® S1 .
Polyester-8 is a copolymer of adipic acid and of neopentyl glycol terminated by cyanodiphenyl propenoic acid having a molecular weight of approximately 1900 daltons. It is in particular marketed under the name Polycrylene® by Hallstar.
Diethylhexyl syringylidenemalonate is a stabilizer for light-sensitive ingredients. It has the formula:
[Chem 4]
Figure imgf000019_0001
It is in particular marketed by Merck KGaA under the name Oxynex® ST Liquid.
Trimethoxybenzylidene pentanedione is marketed under the name Synoxyl HSS by Sytheon.
Diethylhexyl 2,6-naphthalate is a photostabilizer and an emollient. It is marketed by Symrise under the name Corapan TQ.
Polyester-25 is a bis-methoxycrylene/octyldodecyl adipic acid/methylpropanediol copolymer. It is marketed by Hallstar under the name SolaStay® P1 .
Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of photostabilizers, preferably a mixture of ethylhexyl methoxycrylene and diethylhexyl syringylidenemalonate, optionally with butyloctyl salicylate.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 1% by weight of butyloctyl salicylate, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, preferably less than 0.3% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention is totally free of butyloctyl salicylate.
The quantity of photostabilizer(s) can range for example from 0.5 to 15% by weight, preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 1 .3% to 6% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.
According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention further comprises cosmetically acceptable agents and/or excipients, such as preservatives, sequestrants, acids and/or bases.
The term "cosmetically acceptable" means compatible with the skin and/or integuments thereof, having a pleasant color, odor and texture and not giving rise to unacceptable discomfort (tingling, tightness, redness), liable to dissuade the consumer from using the composition.
Among the preferred sequestrants, mention may be made of the salts of ethylenediamine disuccinic acid.
The ethylene diamine disuccinic acid is a compound of the following formula: [Chem 5]
Figure imgf000020_0001
Preferably, the ethylene diamine disuccinic acid salt is selected from alkali metal salts, such as potassium and sodium salts, ammonium salts, and amine salts. The alkali metal salts of ethylenediamine disuccinic acid are more specifically preferred.
Preferably, the ethylene diamine disuccinic acid salt used according to the invention is trisodium ethylene diamine disuccinate.
For example, such a compound is that marketed under the trade name Natrlquest® E30 by Innospec Active Chemicals, or else that marketed under the trade name Octaquest E30® by Octel Performance Chemicals.
Finally, the present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method of cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, preferably the skin, comprising application of a composition according to the invention on said keratin materials. Such a method is intended particularly to protect keratin materials, and particularly the skin, against UV radiation.
Concrete, yet non-limiting, examples, illustrating the invention, will now be provided.
In the examples, the temperature is ambient temperature (20°C) expressed in degrees Celsius unless mentioned otherwise, and the pressure is atmospheric pressure, unless mentioned otherwise.
In the examples, quantities of the ingredients of the compositions are given as a % by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition (% w/w).
Figure imgf000020_0002
A/ Examples of synthesis of lipophilic polymers comprising monomeric units of formula (A) and (B) according to the invention
Determination of molecular weight by gel permeation chromatography (GPC):
The sample is prepared by producing a solution of polymer at 10 mg/ml in tetrahydrofuran. The sample is placed in an oven at 54°C for 10 minutes then in an oscillating stirrer for 60 minutes to assist dissolution. After visual inspection, the sample appears to be fully dissolved in the solvent.
The sample prepared was analyzed using to 300 x 7.5 mm polypore columns (manufactured by Agilent Technologies, a Waters 2695 chromatographic system, a tetrahydrofuran mobile phase and a detection by refractive index. The sample was filtered on a 0.45 pm Nylon filter before being injected into the liquid chromatograph. The standards used for the calibration are Easi Vial narrow polystyrene (PS) standards from Agilent Technologies.
Polystyrene standards ranging from 2,520,000 to 162 Daltons were used for the calibration.
The system is equipped with a PSS SECcurity 1260 Rl detector. The polystyrene calibration curve was used to determine the average molecular weight. The registration of the diagram and the determination of the different molecular weights was performed by the Win GPC Unichrom 81 program.
Determination of melting point by differential scanning calorimetry (or DSC):
This method describes the general procedure for determining the melting point of polymers by differential scanning calorimetry. This method is based on the ASTM E791 and ASTM D 34182 standards and the DSC calibration is performed according to the ASTM E 9672 standard.
Figure imgf000021_0001
In a 4-neck flask equipped with a lateral blade stirrer, an internal thermometer, two funnels, a reflux condenser, and an extension for two other necks, 175 g of behenyl acrylate, 25 g of 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate and 0.4 g of 2,2’-azobis(2-methylbutyronitrile (Akzo Nobel) were added for 60 minutes at 80°C in 40 g of isopropanol under stirring after removing oxygen from the system using a nitrogen purge for 20 minutes. The mixture was stirred at 80°C for 3 hours. Then the solvent was removed by vacuum distillation, then 1 g of dilauryl peroxide was added and the reaction was continued for 60 minutes at 110°C. The step was repeated. The mixture was then cooled to 90°C and a demineralized water spray was added and then stirred. The water was removed by vacuum distillation. Molecular weight: Mn = 7300 g/mol, Mw = 21000, Mw/Mn = 2.8.
Melting point: 65°C.
Stearyl acrylate / 2-hvdroxyethyl copolymer (Polymer 2):
In a 4-neck flask equipped with a lateral blade stirrer, an internal thermometer, two funnels, a reflux condenser, and an extension for two other necks, 155 g of behenyl acrylate, 45 g of 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate and 0.4 g of 2,2’-azobis(2-methylbutyronitrile (Akzo Nobel) were added for 90 minutes at 80°C in 50 g of isopropanol under stirring after removing oxygen from the system using a nitrogen purge for 20 minutes. The mixture was stirred at 80°C for 3 hours. Then the solvent was removed by vacuum distillation, then 1 g of dilauryl peroxide was added and the reaction was continued for 60 minutes at 125 °C. The step was repeated. The mixture was then cooled to 90°C and a demineralized water spray was added and then stirred. The water was removed by vacuum distillation. Molecular weight: Mn = 7500 g/mol, Mw = 19000, Mw/Mn = 2.6.
Melting point: 49°C.
B/ Examples of formulations
Example 1: Measurement of SPF and UVAPF of comparative compositions and composition according to the invention
Comparative compositions C1 and C2, and composition according to the invention F1 , were prepared with the following protocol:
Heat the fatty phase B1 to 80°C. Add phase B2 (ZnO) and allow to homogenize for 20 min with a rotor stator, then keep at 65°C; phase B is obtained.
Place aqueous phase A1 in the production tank under stirring, heat to 65°C. Add phase A2, the mixture must have increased in viscosity; phase A is obtained.
Emulsify under stirring at 65°C for 10 minutes, adding phase B to phase A. Cool to 35°C/40°C under stirring.
[Table 1 ]
Figure imgf000022_0001
Figure imgf000023_0001
a.s.: active substance
Filtering efficacy evaluation protocol
In-vitro: The sun protection factor (SPF) is determined according to the "in vitro" method described by M. Pissavini et al in International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 40, 263-268 (2018), based on the initial absorbance.
The in vitro UVA protection factor (UVAPF) of a sun protection product against UVA radiation is calculated mathematically by in vitro spectral modeling according to the ISO 24443:2012 (Fr) protocol. Each composition is applied on six rough PMMA plates, in the form of a homogeneous and even deposit at a rate of 1 mg/cm2. Each composition is spread using an automated robot which performs regular and uniform movements on three plates referred to as HD6 (molded granular plates) and three plates referred to as SB6 (sanded granular plates). The plate is weighed before and after spreading. Once the six plates are spread, they are left to stand in Thermo-Masters in the dark at 25°C for 30 minutes. The measurements are made thanks to the UV-1000S spectrophotometer from Labsphere. Nine measurements per plate are performed, then are analyzed using an Excel spreadsheet providing the SPF and UVAPF values of the measured composition.
The results are as follows:
[Table 2]
Figure imgf000024_0001
Associating ZnO and BEMT produces a synergistic effect making it possible to obtain an unexpected efficacy greater than that predicted by the sum of the efficacy of each filter taken individually: the SPF and the UVAPF are greater than the expected value in the light of the intrinsic efficacy of each filter.
Example 2: Measurement of dose effect of comparative compositions and compositions according to the invention
Comparative compositions A1* to A5* below were prepared as described in example 1 .
[Table 3]
Figure imgf000024_0002
Figure imgf000025_0001
The dose effect of these compositions is measured; the results are as follows:
[Table 4]
Figure imgf000025_0002
Compositions B1 to B4 according to the invention below were prepared as described in example 1 .
[Table 5]
Figure imgf000025_0003
Figure imgf000026_0001
The dose effect of these compositions is measured; the results are as follows:
[Table 6]
Figure imgf000026_0002
The results show that the synergistic effect is confirmed for the various zinc oxide contents tested. Moreover, it is noticed that composition B2 according to the invention (no butyloctyl salicylate) shows a SPF in vitro of 71.5, which is higher than the SPF in vitro of 69.8 of composition F1 according to the invention (with 3% of butyloctyl salicylate).

Claims

1. Composition, preferably cosmetic, comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium: from 4.5% to 10% by weight of 2,4-bis-{[4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-(4- methoxyphenyl)-1 ,3,5-triazine (INCI name: Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine) with respect to the total weight of the composition, and from 5% to 25% of zinc oxide with respect to the total weight of the composition, the composition comprising less than 3% of other UV filter(s) with respect to the total weight of the composition.
2. Composition according to claim 1 , characterized in that it comprises less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1 % by weight of other UV filter(s) with respect to the total weight of the composition.
3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that it is totally free of other UV filter(s).
4. Composition according to the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises from 5% to 9% by weight, preferably from 5.5% to 8% by weight, preferably from 5.7% to 7% by weight of 2,4-bis-{[4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-(4- methoxyphenyl)-1 ,3,5-triazine (INCI name: Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine) with respect to the total weight of the composition.
5. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the zinc oxide is presented in the form of particles which can be coated or uncoated; preferably, the coated pigments are pigments having undergone one or more chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and/or mechanical surface treatments with compounds such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminum salts of fatty acids, metal alkoxides, polyethylene, silicones, hydrated silica, proteins, alkanolamines, silicon oxides, triethoxycaprylylsilane, oxides of metals or sodium hexametaphosphate.
6. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the zinc oxide is chosen from among uncoated zinc oxide pigments, ZnO coated with polymethylhydrogen siloxane, ZnO dispersed in C12-15 alkyl benzonate, ZnO coated with a silicone-grafted acrylic polymer dispersed in cyclodimethylsiloxane, ZnO coated with hydrated silica, ZnO coated with hydrated silica, triethoxysilylethyl polydimethylsiloxyethyl hexyl dimethicone and hydrogen dimethicone (H-Me-Si), ZnO coated with stearic acid or isostearic acid, ZnO coated with a silicone oil and ZnO coated with triethoxycaprylylsilane.
7. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises from 5% to 20% by weight of zinc oxide, preferably from 5% to 15% by weight, preferably from 5% to 10% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.
8. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises an aqueous medium comprising at least water and optionally at least one other organic solvent soluble in water, at 25°C, chosen from among C1 -C4 monoalcohols and polyols particularly with 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, diglycerol, propyleneglycol, isoprene glycol, dipropyleneglycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1 ,3-propanediol, pentylene glycol, simple sugars, water-soluble polyalkyleneglycols and mixtures thereof; preferably, the composition comprises at least one polyol, preferably chosen from among glycerol, 1 ,3-propanediol and mixtures thereof.
9. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is presented in the form of gel, or in the form of emulsion, particularly oil-in-water emulsion and comprises an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase.
10. Composition according to claim 9, characterized in that the oily phase comprises at least one oil chosen from among:
- hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene;
- hydrocarbon oils of plant origin, such as liquid fatty acid triglycerides having from 4 to 10 carbon atoms such as heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides or, for example, sunflower, corn, soybean, pumpkin, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor, avocado oils, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, coco- caprylate/caprate, jojoba oil, shea butter oil;
- esters and synthetic esters, in particular of fatty acids, such as oils having formulas R1 COOR2 and R1 OR2 wherein R1 is the residue of a fatty acid having from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R2 is a hydrocarbon chain, branched or not, containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, such as for example Purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, ethyl- 2-hexyl palmitate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octylhydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate; heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate or dipentaerythrityl pentaisononanoate;
- linear or branched hydrocarbons, of inorganic or synthetic origin, such as volatile or non-volatile paraffin oils and derivatives thereof, hydrocarbon oils with branched chain having from 10 to 20 carbon atoms such as isohexadecane, isododecane, isoparaffins and mixtures thereof, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, polyisobutenes or hydrogenated polyisobutenes;
- partially hydrocarbon and/or silicone fluorinated oils;
- silicone oils such as polymethylsiloxanes, optionally volatile with a linear or cyclic silicone chain, liquid or pasty at ambient temperature, particularly cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl pendant or silicon chain-end groups, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenyl-siloxanes, diphenyl-dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethyl-siloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes; and
- mixtures thereof.
11. Composition according to claim 9 or 10, characterized in that the oily phase comprises at least one other fatty substance, preferably chosen from among waxes, semi-crystalline polymers and mixtures thereof; preferably the semi-crystalline polymer is chosen from among poly C10-30 alkyl acrylate, Behenyl Acrylate/Hydroxyethylacrylate copolymers and Stearyl Acrylate/Hydroxyethylacrylate copolymers.
12. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one photostabilizer, preferably chosen from among butyloctyl salicylate, benzotriazolyl dodecyl p-cresol, ethylhexyl methoxycrylene, polyester-8, diethylhexyl syringylidenemalonate, trimethoxybenzylidene pentanedione, diethylhexyl 2,6- naphthalate, polyester-25 and mixtures thereof; preferably it comprises a mixture of photostabilizers, preferably a mixture of ethylhexyl methoxycrylene and diethylhexyl syringylidenemalonate, optionally with butyloctyl salicylate.
13. Composition according to claim 12, characterized in that the photostabilizer is present in an amount ranging from 0.5 to 15% by weight, preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 1 .3% to 6% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.
14. Composition according to claim 12 or 13, characterized in that it comprises less than 1% by weight of butyloctyl salicylate, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, preferably less than 0.3% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition; preferably the composition is totally free of butyloctyl salicylate.
15. Non-therapeutic method of cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, preferably the skin, comprising application of a composition according to one of the preceding claims on said keratin materials.
PCT/EP2024/055100 2023-02-28 2024-02-28 Cosmetic composition with zinc oxide and bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine WO2024180130A1 (en)

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FR2301829A FR3146067A1 (en) 2023-02-28 2023-02-28 COSMETIC COMPOSITION BASED ON ZINC OXIDE AND BISETHYHEXYLOXYPHENOL METHOXYPHENYL TRIAZINE
FRFR2301829 2023-02-28

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