WO2024126733A1 - Composition comprenant au moins un alcool gras saturé, au moins un tensioactif anionique, au moins un polyol et au moins une huile non siliconée - Google Patents

Composition comprenant au moins un alcool gras saturé, au moins un tensioactif anionique, au moins un polyol et au moins une huile non siliconée Download PDF

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WO2024126733A1
WO2024126733A1 PCT/EP2023/085920 EP2023085920W WO2024126733A1 WO 2024126733 A1 WO2024126733 A1 WO 2024126733A1 EP 2023085920 W EP2023085920 W EP 2023085920W WO 2024126733 A1 WO2024126733 A1 WO 2024126733A1
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composition
weight
preferentially
composition according
hydrocarbon
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PCT/EP2023/085920
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English (en)
Inventor
Caroline SIRICHANDRA
Odile Aubrun
Jean-Yves Fouron
Anne BRUNOU
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L'oreal
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Publication of WO2024126733A1 publication Critical patent/WO2024126733A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0216—Solid or semisolid forms
    • A61K8/022—Powders; Compacted Powders
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A61K8/062—Oil-in-water emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/24—Phosphorous; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/342—Alcohols having more than seven atoms in an unbroken chain
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/345—Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/442—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof substituted by amido group(s)
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/46—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
    • A61K8/466—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur containing sulfonic acid derivatives; Salts
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/925—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of animal origin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, in which an oily phase is dispersed in an aqueous phase, comprising:
  • At least one anionic surfactant including at least one C16-C22 and preferably C16-C18 hydrocarbon-based chain;
  • composition being free of silicone compounds.
  • the present invention also relates to the use of said composition in the cosmetic and dermatological fields, in particular for caring for and treating keratin materials.
  • the particular type of presentation form targeted by the present invention namely an oil-in-water emulsion notably requiring the presence of at least one saturated C16-C22 fatty alcohol and at least one anionic surfactant including at least one C16-C22 hydrocarbon-based chain, allows active agents to be conveyed while at the same time affording advantageous sensory properties when it is applied to keratin materials.
  • Oil-in-water emulsion compositions notably requiring the presence of at least one saturated C16-C22 fatty alcohol and at least one anionic surfactant including at least one C16-C22 hydrocarbon-based chain are described in particular in patent application WO 2018/108878 and in patent application WO 2020/002538.
  • compositions address very specific objectives. Their purpose is, respectively, notably to mask skin imperfections or to moisturize the skin.
  • compositions that are capable of maintaining good stability over time, while at the same time having good sensory properties, notably with little or no soapiness on application.
  • the aim of the present invention is to solve the abovementioned technical problems.
  • compositions with advantageous sensory properties and in particular good uptake from the jar, good glidance, a non-tacky aspect, and little or no soapiness on application, while at the same time retaining satisfactory stability over time.
  • the present invention relates to a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, in which an oily phase is dispersed in an aqueous phase, comprising:
  • At least one anionic surfactant including at least one C16-C22 and preferably C16-C18 hydrocarbon-based chain;
  • composition being free of silicone compounds.
  • the term “free of silicone compounds ” refers to a composition according to the invention which comprises less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, and more preferentially is free (devoid) of silicone compounds.
  • silicone compounds means any silicone compounds that are liable to be used in the cosmetic and/or dermatological fields, i.e. inorganic compounds consisting at least of a mixture of silicon and oxygen, notably including silicone oils, silicone surfactants, dimethylsiloxane polymers, volatile or functionalized silicones, silicone elastomers, silicone resins, phenyl silicones or amino silicones.
  • a subject of the present invention is also a process for caring for keratin materials such as the skin, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratin materials a composition as described previously.
  • the present invention also relates to the use of a composition as described previously for caring for, protecting and/or making up the skin of the body or face, or for haircare.
  • compositions with advantageous sensory properties and in particular good uptake from the jar, good glidance, a non-tacky aspect, and little soapiness, while at the same time retaining satisfactory stability over time.
  • compositions according to the present invention advantageously enable ingredients of various kinds such as cosmetic active agents, sunscreens, particles, polymers, fragrances, dyes or nacres to be conveyed, depending on the various benefit(s) desired.
  • the invention is not limited to the examples illustrated.
  • the characteristics of the various examples may notably be combined within variants which are not illustrated.
  • the term “keratin materials ” refers to the skin of the body, face and/or neck and/or the area around the eyes, the lips, the nails, mucous membranes, the eyelashes, the eyebrows, bodily hair, the scalp and/or the hair, or any other area of bodily skin. More particularly, the keratin materials according to the invention are the scalp, the hair and/or the skin.
  • the keratin material according to the invention is the skin.
  • the composition according to the invention is a cosmetic composition, more preferentially a cosmetic composition for caring for keratin materials such as the skin.
  • composition according to the invention is generally suitable for topical application to the skin and thus generally comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, i.e. a medium that is compatible with the skin.
  • cosmetic refers to a composition that is compatible with the skin, mucous membranes and the integuments.
  • the composition according to the invention is non-therapeutic.
  • a cosmetically acceptable medium i.e. a medium which has a pleasant colour, odour and feel and which does not cause any unacceptable discomfort, i.e. stinging, tautness or redness, liable to discourage the user from applying this composition.
  • composition according to the invention is a composition according to the invention.
  • composition according to the invention comprises at least one saturated C16-C22 and preferably C16-C18 fatty alcohol.
  • saturated fatty alcohol means any alcohol comprising a linear saturated (containing no covalent double or triple bonds) hydrocarbon-based chain, in particular a linear alkyl radical, said chain comprising between 16 and 22 carbon atoms and a hydroxyl function.
  • hydrocarbon-based chain means an organic group predominantly consisting of hydrogen atoms and carbon atoms.
  • the saturated fatty alcohol(s) present in the composition in accordance with the invention comprise between 16 and 22 carbon atoms, preferably between 16 and 18 carbon atoms.
  • the saturated C 16 -C 22 fatty alcohol(s) used in the compositions in accordance with the present invention are solid at room temperature (25°C) and advantageously have an -OH group at the chain end.
  • the saturated fatty alcohol(s) that are of use in the context of the present invention may notably be chosen from cetyl alcohol or hexadecanol (C16), stearyl alcohol or octadecanol (C18), or behenyl alcohol (C22) which are solid at room temperature and advantageously bear a chain-end -OH group.
  • the saturated C16-C22 fatty alcohol(s) are chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof such as cetylstearyl alcohol.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of saturated C16 and C18 fatty alcohols; in particular, the composition comprises cetylstearyl alcohol.
  • the mixture of C16 and C18 fatty alcohols is used in a C16/C18 mass ratio ranging from 20/80 to 80/20 and advantageously in a C16/C18 mass ratio equal to 50/50.
  • the content of saturated C16-C22 and preferably C16-C18 fatty alcohol is strictly greater than 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the saturated C16-C22 and preferably C16-C18 fatty alcohol(s) are present in an amount of between 3.1% and 7% by weight, more preferentially between 3.2% and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • Anionic surfactants including at least one C16-C22 hydrocarbon-based chain
  • composition according to the invention comprises at least one anionic surfactant including at least one C16-C22 and preferably C16-C18 hydrocarbon-based chain.
  • the anionic surfactant(s) that are useful in the context of the invention comprise at least one saturated (not containing any covalent double or triple bonds) or unsaturated (which may contain one or more covalent double and/or triple bonds), preferably saturated, linear hydrocarbon-based chain, in particular a linear alkyl radical, said hydrocarbon-based chain comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 16 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • the anionic surfactant(s) that are useful in the context of the invention comprise only one saturated or unsaturated linear hydrocarbon-based chain.
  • hydrocarbon-based chain means an organic group predominantly consisting of hydrogen atoms and carbon atoms.
  • the anionic surfactant(s) including at least one C16-C22 hydrocarbon-based chain are chosen from surfactants comprising at least one sulfonate function, acylglutamates, and mixtures thereof.
  • the anionic surfactant(s) comprising at least one sulfonate function are chosen from (C16-C22)alkylsulfonates, (C16-C22)alkylamidesulfonates, (C16-C22)alkylarylsulfonates, (C16-C22)alkylsulfoacetates, N-acyl(C16-C22)-N-(C1-C6)alkyltaurates, (C16-C22)acylisethionates, (C16-C22)alkylsulfolaurates, and mixtures thereof.
  • the anionic surfactant(s) comprising at least one sulfonate function are chosen from:
  • acylisethionates the linear or branched acyl group comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 16 to 18 carbon atoms;
  • the linear or branched acyl group comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 16 to 18 carbon atoms, and the linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or the cyclic alkyl group comprising from 3 to 6 carbon atoms; preferably, the alkyl group is a methyl,
  • alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.
  • N-acyl-N-alkyltaurates mention may be made of sodium palmitoyl methyltaurate sold under the name Nikkol PMT® by the company Nikkol; the sodium salt of N-stearoyl N-methyl taurate sold under the name Nikkol SMT by the company Nikko.
  • the acyl glutamate(s) may be chosen from acyl glutamates in which the acyl group comprises from 16 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • acyl glutamates examples include palmitoyl glutamic acid, stearoyl glutamic acid, behenoyl glutamic acid, olivoyl glutamic acid, and the salts of these acids, notably the alkali metal salts such as the Na, Li or K and preferably Na or K salts, the alkaline-earth metal salts such as the Mg salts or the ammonium salts of said acids.
  • Mention may be made, for example, of the compounds having the INCI name sodium stearoyl glutamate, sodium olivoyl glutamate, and mixtures thereof.
  • acylglutamic acid salts mention may also be made of sodium stearoyl glutamate, such as the product sold under the reference Acylglutamate HS 11 by the company Ajinomoto and disodium hydrogenated stearoyl glutamate, such as the product sold under the reference Acylglutamate HS-21 by the company Ajinomoto.
  • the anionic surfactant(s) including at least one C16-C22 hydrocarbon-based chain are chosen from the surfactants of general formula (I): RCOY(CH 2 ) n SO 3 M in which R represents a saturated, linear or branched C16-C22 alkyl group; Y represents -O- or –NR 1 - with R 1 representing a linear or branched C1-C3 alkyl group; M is chosen from the group formed by hydrogen, alkali metals, alkaline-earth metals, the ammonium group and organic amines; n is an integer ranging from 1 to 3.
  • the anionic surfactant of general formula (I) is N-stearoyl-N-methyltaurate, with M corresponding to Na.
  • the anionic surfactant(s) including at least one C 16 -C 22 hydrocarbon-based chain are chosen from surfactants comprising at least one sulfonate function, more preferentially from N-acyl-N-alkyltaurates, the linear or branched acyl group comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 16 to 18 carbon atoms, and the alkyl group being a methyl, in the form of salts of alkali or alkaline-earth metals, such as sodium (Na).
  • the anionic surfactant including at least one C16-C22 hydrocarbon-based chain is sodium N-stearoyl N-methyl taurate.
  • the anionic surfactant(s) including at least one C16-C22 and preferably C16-C18 hydrocarbon-based chain are present in an amount preferably between 0.05% and 5% by weight, more preferentially between 0.1% and 2% by weight, and even more preferentially between 0.1% and 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the fatty alcohols (a)/anionic surfactants (b) mass ratio may be between 10/1 and 6/4, preferably between 19/2 and 7/3, and even more preferentially between 9/1 and 4/1.
  • the fatty alcohol(s) and the anionic surfactant(s) including at least one C16-C22 hydrocarbon-based chain form, with the hydrophilic phase, an alpha crystalline phase, also referred to as alpha gel.
  • This phase may notably be characterized by DSC analysis and by X-ray diffraction at a temperature lower than the melting point of the alpha gel phase.
  • composition in accordance with the invention is capable of forming crystalline lamellar phases.
  • the compositions of the invention contain at least one swollen alpha-crystalline phase having a swelling period of greater than 10 nm, preferably greater than 12 nm and even more preferentially greater than or equal to 15 nm.
  • the period is defined as being the sum of the thickness of a bilayer formed by the fatty alcohols (a) and the anionic surfactants (b) and the thickness of the water layer between two leaflets, this unit being repeated several times.
  • the difference between the number of carbon atoms in the hydrocarbon-based chain of the anionic surfactant(s) (b) and the number of carbon atoms in the fatty alcohol(s) (a) must not differ by more than 5 carbon atoms, and is preferentially less than or equal to 4.
  • composition according to the invention comprises at least one polyol in a content strictly greater than 15% by weight and strictly less than 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • polyol means any organic molecule including at least two free hydroxyl groups.
  • polyol means:
  • PEGs polyethylene glycols
  • the polyol(s) bear a saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain.
  • the polyol(s) comprise a number of carbon atoms ranging from 2 to 20, preferably from 2 to 10, and comprise from 2 to 12 and better still from 2 to 8 hydroxyl functions.
  • the polyol(s) may be chosen from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerol, diglycerol, erythritol, pentaerythritol, arabitol, adonitol, sorbitol, dulcitol, maltitol and panthenol.
  • glycerol glycerol, caprylyl glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, and mixtures thereof, are preferentially chosen.
  • the polyol(s) comprise from 2 to 12 hydroxyl functions, preferably from 2 to 8 hydroxyl functions, and more preferentially are chosen from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerol, diglycerol, and mixtures thereof, preferably glycerol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol and 1,3-propanediol, and even more preferentially glycerol, caprylyl glycol and mixtures thereof.
  • the polyol is chosen from glycerol, caprylyl glycol and mixtures thereof.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of caprylyl glycol and glycerol.
  • the polyol(s) are preferably present in the composition in an amount of between 15.1% and 29.9% by weight, preferably between 17% and 25% by weight, and even more preferentially between 18% and 23% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-silicone oil.
  • oil means a water-immiscible non-aqueous compound that is liquid at room temperature (20°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
  • composition according to the invention may in particular comprise hydrocarbon-based oils.
  • They may be of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin.
  • hydrocarbon-based oil means an oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms.
  • non-silicone oil means an oil not comprising any silicon atoms and notably no Si-O groups.
  • the oils may optionally comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.
  • Hydrocarbon-based oils that may notably be mentioned include:
  • C8-C16 alkanes comprising more than 8 carbon atoms
  • C8-C16 alkanes for instance C8-C16 isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane and, for example, the oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl, branched C8-C16 esters, for instance isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof,
  • oils of plant origin such as glyceride triesters, which are generally triesters of fatty acids and of glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have varied chain lengths of from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, these chains possibly being linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated; these oils are notably wheatgerm oil, rice bran oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppyseed oil, pumpkin oil, marrow oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, musk rose oil, Limnanthes alba seed oil (INCI name
  • R1 represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue including from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain that is notably branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, with the proviso that R1 + R2 is greater than or equal to 10, for instance purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, myristyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, alkyl benzoates containing between 12 and 15 carbon atoms, such as the product sold under the trade name Finsolv TN or Witconol TN by the company Witco or Tegosoft TN by the company Evonik Goldschmidt, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate, such as the commercial product sold under the name X-Tend 226 by the company ISP, isopropyl lanolate, hexyl laurate, diiso
  • dimer dilinoleate esters of diol dimer and diacid dimer, where appropriate esterified on their free alcohol or acid function(s) with acid or alcohol radicals, in particular dimer dilinoleate esters; more particularly chosen from the esters having the following INCI nomenclature: bis-behenyl/isostearyl/phytosteryl dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate (Plandool G), phytosteryl/isostearyl/cetyl/stearyl/behenyl dimer dilinoleate (Plandool H or Plandool S), and mixtures thereof,
  • fatty amides such as isopropyl N-lauroyl sarcosinate, for example the product sold under the trade name Eldew SL205 from Ajinomoto,
  • - fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature, with a branched and optionally unsaturated carbon-based chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for instance octyldodecanol, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol (2-hexyldecanol), 2-butyloctanol or 2-undecylpentadecanol,
  • dicaprylyl carbonate for example the product sold under the name Cetiol CC by the company Cognis.
  • the non-silicone oil(s) are chosen from branched or linear alkanes comprising more than 8 carbon atoms, hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, synthetic ethers including from 10 to 40 carbon atoms, and synthetic esters of formula R1COOR2, in which R1 represents a residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, notably a branched chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, on condition that R1 + R2 is greater than or equal to 10, polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, diol dimer and diacid dimer esters, fatty amides, fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature, with a branched and optionally unsaturated carbon-based chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, higher C19-C
  • the non-silicone oil(s) are chosen from apolar hydrocarbon-based oils.
  • apolar oil means an oil formed essentially from, or even constituted by, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and not containing any oxygen, nitrogen, silicon or fluorine atoms.
  • the apolar hydrocarbon-based oil may be chosen from linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as:
  • the apolar hydrocarbon-based oil(s) have a molecular weight of greater than or equal to 350 g.mol, more preferentially greater than or equal to 400 g.mol.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-silicone oil chosen from apolar hydrocarbon-based oil(s), more preferentially having a molecular weight greater than or equal to 350 g.mol, such as squalane.
  • the non-silicone oil(s) are present in the composition in an amount preferably ranging from 0.5% to 40% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 30% by weight, more preferentially from 3% to 20%, even more preferentially from 5% to 15% relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention comprises an oily phase.
  • the proportion of the oily phase of the emulsion may range, for example, from 0.1% to 40% by weight, preferably from 1% to 30% by weight, even more preferentially from 2% to 20% by weight and better still from 3% to 15% by weight.
  • the oily phase includes any fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, generally oils, or that is solid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, like waxes, or any pasty compound, which are present in said composition, with the exception of the fatty alcohols as defined previously.
  • composition according to the invention comprises an aqueous phase.
  • the aqueous phase of the composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least water and the polyol(s) as defined previously.
  • the amount of aqueous phase may range from 50% to 97.5% by weight, preferably from 60% to 95% by weight and better still from 70% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of water may represent all or some of the aqueous phase and it is generally at least 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably at least 35% by weight, better still at least 40% by weight.
  • aqueous (or hydrophilic) phase of the composition according to the invention may also contain any water-soluble or water-dispersible additive, other than the polyols mentioned previously.
  • water-soluble additive denotes a compound that is liquid at room temperature and water-miscible (miscibility with water of greater than 50% by weight at 25°C and atmospheric pressure).
  • Water-soluble additives that may also be mentioned include primary alcohols, i.e. an alcohol including from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol and isopropanol. It is preferably ethanol.
  • the addition of such an alcohol may notably be suitable when the composition according to the invention is used as a product for the body or the hair.
  • the amount of water-soluble or water-dispersible additives in the composition of the invention may range, for example, from 0% to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 30% by weight and even more preferentially from 2% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the pH of the composition is between 4 and 9 and more preferentially between 4.5 and 7.
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one additional cosmetic active agent.
  • additional active agent means a compound which has, by itself, that is to say not requiring the intervention of an external agent in order to activate it, a biological activity.
  • the additional active agent(s) may notably be chosen from:
  • esters thereof such as tocopherol (vitamin E) and esters thereof (for instance tocopheryl acetate), ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and derivatives thereof, panthenol, niacinamide or vitamin B3;
  • anti-ageing active agents such as hyaluronic acid compounds, and notably sodium hyaluronate, retinol and derivatives thereof, salicylic acid compounds and in particular 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid (capryloylsalicylic acid), caffeine, adenosine, C- ⁇ -D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane and the sodium salt of (3-hydroxy-2-pentylcyclopentyl)acetic acid;
  • hyaluronic acid compounds and notably sodium hyaluronate, retinol and derivatives thereof
  • salicylic acid compounds and in particular 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid (capryloylsalicylic acid), caffeine, adenosine, C- ⁇ -D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane and the sodium salt of (3-hydroxy-2-pentylcyclopentyl)acetic acid
  • composition according to the invention may also include at least one additive chosen from the usual adjuvants in the cosmetic field, such as preserving agents, fragrances, dyes, nacres, pigments, film-forming polymers, thickening polymers, pH adjusters (acids or bases), fillers, dispersants, and mixtures thereof.
  • additives chosen from the usual adjuvants in the cosmetic field, such as preserving agents, fragrances, dyes, nacres, pigments, film-forming polymers, thickening polymers, pH adjusters (acids or bases), fillers, dispersants, and mixtures thereof.
  • the additional active agent used in the composition according to the invention may represent from 0.0001% to 20%, preferably from 0.01% to 10% and better still from 0.01% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition used according to the invention may be in any presentation form normally used in the cosmetics field.
  • composition according to the invention is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. It includes an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase.
  • composition according to the invention may be more or less fluid and may have the appearance of a gel, a white or coloured cream, an ointment, a milk, a lotion, a serum, a paste or a mousse.
  • the composition in accordance with the invention is not solid.
  • composition in accordance with the invention is not in stick form.
  • compositions according to the invention is not solid and is not in stick form.
  • compositions according to the invention are in the form of a non-solid galenic, ranging from a serum texture to a creamy texture that can be kept in a jar.
  • the viscosity of a composition of the invention ranges between 100 cP (centipoises), that is to say 0.1 Pa.s (Pascal.second) (mobile internal measurement 2 , 21UD - fluid milk type) and 20 040 cP, that is to say 20.04 Pa.s (mobile internal measurement 4, 85UD - heavy cream type) measured at 25°C.
  • the viscosity of a composition of the invention can be measured by any method known to the skilled person, and in particular by the following conventional method. For example, measurement can be carried out at 25°C using a Contraves TV or Rheomat RM180, equipped with a mobile rotating at 200 rpm.
  • the person skilled in the art can choose the mobile used to measure viscosity, fro example from M1, M2 or M4 mobiles, on the basis of his general knowledge, so as to be able to carry out the measurement.
  • composition according to the invention is intended for topical application, i.e. for application to the surface of the keratin material under consideration, such as the skin under consideration.
  • the skin is the skin of the face and/or of the body, in particular of the face and/or of the neck and/or of the hands, preferably of the face and/or of the neck and/or and more particularly of the forehead and/or of the alae of the nose and/or of the chin.
  • composition according to the invention may comprise any constituent usually employed in the envisaged topical application and administration.
  • such a composition is not intended to be rinsed off after application.
  • composition according to the invention is advantageously in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.
  • composition may alternatively be in the form of a face and/or body care or makeup product, and may be packaged, for example, in the form of a cream in a jar or a fluid in a tube or a pump bottle or a dropper bottle.
  • composition according to the invention may be manufactured via any known process generally used in the cosmetics field.
  • the ingredients are mixed before forming, in the order and under conditions readily determined by a person skilled in the art.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises cetylstearyl alcohol, the sodium salt of N-stearoyl N-methyl taurate, a mixture of caprylyl glycol and glycerol and optionally squalane.
  • a subject of the present invention is also a process for caring for keratin materials such as the skin, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratin materials a composition as described previously.
  • the present invention also relates to the use of a composition as described previously for caring for, protecting and/or making up the skin of the body or face, or for haircare.
  • the cosmetic uses and processes considered according to the invention are non-therapeutic.
  • the cosmetic use or process of the invention is performed by topically administering a composition according to the invention.
  • Topical administration consists of the external application to the skin of cosmetic compositions according to the usual techniques for the use of these compositions.
  • the cosmetic use or process according to the invention may be performed by topical application, for example daily, of at least one composition according to the invention, which may be formulated, for example, in the form of a gel, a white or coloured cream, an ointment, a milk, a lotion, a serum, a paste or a foam.
  • the application is repeated, for example, once or twice a day for one or more days and generally over an extended period of at least 4 weeks, or even 4 to 15 weeks, with, where appropriate, one or more periods of stoppage.
  • the application is daily (once a day) and generally over an extended period of at least 4 weeks, or even 4 to 15 weeks, with, where appropriate, one or more periods of stoppage.
  • composition according to the invention will be applied to areas of skin that have been previously cleansed using a washing solution.
  • treatment combinations optionally with topical forms may be envisaged, so as to complement or reinforce the activity of the composition according to the invention.
  • the present invention relates in particular to a cosmetic process for treating a keratin material, comprising:
  • step c) optionally, a step of topical application of a composition different from the composition applied in step b);
  • steps b) and c) it being possible for steps b) and c) to be performed simultaneously or successively.
  • Such a composition applied in step c) can be termed a “supplementary composition”.
  • the washing solution may notably be in various forms, such as a solution, an aqueous solution, a lotion, a milky lotion, a cream, a gel, a liquid gel, a paste, a serum, a suspension, a dispersion, a fluid, a milk, an emulsion (O/W or W/O form), or others, preferably in the form of a solution or an aqueous gel.
  • the temperature is given in degrees Celsius and corresponds to room temperature (20-25°C), unless otherwise indicated, and the pressure is the atmospheric pressure at sea level, unless otherwise indicated. Moreover, unless otherwise indicated, the percentages are expressed on a weight basis relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition 1 Three compositions according to the invention (named composition 1, composition 2 and composition 3 ) and a composition outside the invention ( Composition 4 ), in particular comprising a saturated C16-C22 fatty alcohol content of less than 3% by weight (in this case 2%) relative to the total weight of the composition, were prepared.
  • compositions in the form of oil-in-water emulsions, comprise the compounds detailed in Table 1 below, in contents expressed as weight percentages relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • Phase Compounds (INCI name) 1 2 3 4 A Preserving agents qs qs qs qs qs Cetearyl alcohol (1) 3.6 3.8 3.2 2 Sodium methyl stearoyl taurate (2) 0.4 0.4 0.6 0.4 Caprylyl glycol 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 Chelating agent 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 B Squalane (3) 5 10 10 5 C Glycerol 20 10 10 20 Water qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100
  • phase A In a tank, the components of phase A are heated to 75°C until a homogeneous medium is obtained by paddle stirring.
  • the mixture is cooled with stirring and under vacuum, and the pH is adjusted if necessary (pH around 5-6).
  • compositions may be evaluated according to the following protocol.
  • composition to be tested are evaluated immediately after its preparation.
  • composition to be tested is then stored for 2 months at various temperatures: at room temperature or “RT” (about 25°C), at 4°C and at 45°C.
  • RT room temperature
  • the temperature may be regulated using an oven, for example the Bio Concept machine from Firlabo.
  • the properties are evaluated after 1 month and 2 months of storage under the conditions described above.
  • the viscosity of the composition measured with a viscometer, for example a Rheomat RM 100 viscometer from Lamy Rheology according to the CID-012-02 method;
  • the appearance of the composition in particular its microscopic appearance evaluated by observation of the composition under a light microscope between slide and coverslip, at X10 magnification;
  • Phenomena associated with destabilization of the composition will also be observed, such as the appearance of creaming, coalescence, sedimentation, flocculation, the formation of a film on the surface, mottling, etc.
  • composition remains smooth and homogeneous, with no signs of destabilization and with no change in colour or odour, then it is considered to be stable.
  • the evaluation of the sensory effect consists in noting the presence of white marks when compositions 1 to 3 according to the invention and composition 4 outside the invention are applied to the skin, by a panel of six experts.
  • composition to be tested 50 ⁇ L of the composition to be tested are taken up using an Eppendorf micropipette fitted with a 0.5 mL combitip, and are then deposited on a circle 5 cm in diameter drawn on a Lipstain support (Reference: Lipstain/C3).
  • composition is then spread by finger, using approximately 15 rotations, twice at 15-second intervals.
  • the fingers are rinsed using a cloth moistened with warm water.
  • the study is performed by a panel of six experts who individually evaluate the presence of white marks according to the above protocol.
  • composition is considered to suffer from soapiness if its average score according to the above protocol is greater than or equal to 3.0.
  • compositions 1 to 3 according to the invention and of composition 4 outside the invention were evaluated according to the measurement protocols detailed above.
  • compositions 1 (invention) 2 (invention) 3 (invention) 4 (outside the invention) Sensory effect (soapiness) 2 2 1.5 3 Long-term stability Compliant Compliant Compliant Non-compliant (creaming)
  • compositions 1 to 3 according to the invention comprising a saturated C16-C22 fatty alcohol content strictly greater than 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition are stable over time, in the sense that no significant change in their properties is observed, even after storage for two months at 45°C.
  • composition 4 outside the present invention comprising a saturated C16-C22 fatty alcohol content of less than 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition shows creaming after two months of storage at 45°C. Consequently, composition 4, outside the invention, is thus unstable.
  • compositions 1 to 3 according to the invention have good sensory properties, with little soapiness on application, and a glidant and non-tacky feel on application, unlike composition 4 outside the invention.
  • a composition according to the invention comprising a saturated C16-C22 fatty alcohol content strictly greater than 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, has both stability and advantageous sensory properties.
  • compositions outside the invention comprising an amount of polyol of less than or equal to 15% by weight (in this case 5%) or greater than or equal to 30% by weight (in this case 30%) relative to the total weight of the composition, were prepared.
  • Composition 1 according to the invention corresponds to the composition shown in Example 1.
  • compositions in the form of oil-in-water emulsions, comprise the compounds detailed in Table 3 below, in contents expressed as weight percentages relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • Phase Compounds (INCI name) 1 5 6 A Preserving agents qs qs qs qs Cetearyl alcohol (1) 3.6 3.6 3.6 Sodium methyl stearoyl taurate (2) 0.4 0.4 0.4 Caprylyl glycol 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 Chelating agent 0.25 0.25 0.25 B Squalane (3) 5 5 5 C Glycerol 20 5 30 Water qs 100 qs 100 qs 100
  • the viscosity of the compositions may be measured using a rheometer (Rheomat RM200).
  • the measurement is performed using an immersed element (spindle or measuring body) rotating at a constant chosen speed.
  • the measurement is performed with a product to be analysed - cup - measuring body assembly at a given nominal temperature, regulated for example using a thermostatic bath.
  • test composition 60 ml of the test composition are placed in the cup, avoiding the introduction of air and pouring along the wall.
  • the spindle used for performing the measurements is chosen depending on the viscosity of the product to be analysed:
  • the machine is programmed to perform a system of 75 measurements, at a spindle rotation speed of 200 rpm.
  • the nominal temperature is 25°C.
  • the viscosity is measured after 10 minutes of rotation of the measuring body.
  • a composition may be considered to be compact for good consistency in the jar if it has a viscosity of greater than or equal to 650 Pa.s as measured according to the protocol defined above.
  • composition 1 The sensory effect (soapiness) and the viscosity of composition 1 according to the invention and of compositions 5 and 6 outside the invention were evaluated according to the sensory effect measurement protocol detailed in Example 1 and the viscosity measurement protocol detailed above.
  • Composition 1 according to the invention comprising an amount of polyol strictly greater than 15% by weight and strictly less than 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, has a compact consistency in the jar allowing it to be easily taken up by the consumer.
  • composition 5 outside the invention comprising an amount of polyol of less than or equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition has a fluid consistency in the jar, which makes it difficult for the consumer to take it up.
  • composition 1 according to the invention has good sensory properties, with little soapiness on application, and feels glidant and non-tacky on application, unlike composition 6 outside the invention comprising an amount of polyol of greater than or equal to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, which suffers from soapiness.
  • a composition according to the invention comprising an amount of polyol strictly greater than 15% by weight and strictly less than 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, has both a compact texture allowing it to be taken up easily from the jar and advantageous sensory properties.

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne une composition, de préférence une composition cosmétique, sous la forme d'une émulsion huile-dans-eau, dans laquelle une phase huileuse est dispersée dans une phase aqueuse, comprenant (a) au moins un alcool gras saturé en C16-C22 et de préférence en C16-C18, la teneur en alcool gras saturé en C16-C22 étant strictement supérieure à 3% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition ; (b) au moins un tensioactif anionique comprenant au moins une chaîne hydrocarbonée en C16-C22 et de préférence en C16-C18 ; (c) au moins un polyol présent en une quantité strictement supérieure à 15% en poids et strictement inférieure à 30% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition et (d) au moins une huile non siliconée, la composition étant exempte de composés siliconés.
PCT/EP2023/085920 2022-12-15 2023-12-14 Composition comprenant au moins un alcool gras saturé, au moins un tensioactif anionique, au moins un polyol et au moins une huile non siliconée WO2024126733A1 (fr)

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FRFR2213442 2022-12-15
FR2213442A FR3143330A1 (fr) 2022-12-15 2022-12-15 Composition comprenant au moins un alcool gras saturé, au moins un tensioactif anionique, au moins un polyol, et au moins une huile non siliconée

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Citations (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2008155059A2 (fr) 2007-06-19 2008-12-24 Cognis Ip Management Gmbh Mélanges d'hydrocarbures et leur utilisation
WO2013102566A1 (fr) * 2012-01-02 2013-07-11 L'oreal Composition cosmétique aqueuse comprenant une alkylcellulose, des huiles non volatiles, une cire particulière et un tensioactif
US20160120788A1 (en) * 2013-06-03 2016-05-05 L'oreal Cosmetic compositions comprising an associative polyurethane and a hydrophobic coated pigment
US20170326060A1 (en) * 2014-10-31 2017-11-16 Shiseido Company, Ltd. Elastic jelly-like composition
WO2018108878A1 (fr) 2016-12-16 2018-06-21 L'oreal Émulsion de type h/e comprenant un alcool gras en c16 à c30, un tensioactif anionique, une huile, une cire et un solvant hydrophile
WO2020002538A1 (fr) 2018-06-28 2020-01-02 L'oreal Composition comprenant un alcool gras saturé, au moins un tensioactif anionique à chaîne grasse, un polyol et au moins une huile de silicone
US20200109231A1 (en) * 2017-04-04 2020-04-09 Polymerexpert Sa New polyurethane gelling agent

Patent Citations (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2008155059A2 (fr) 2007-06-19 2008-12-24 Cognis Ip Management Gmbh Mélanges d'hydrocarbures et leur utilisation
WO2013102566A1 (fr) * 2012-01-02 2013-07-11 L'oreal Composition cosmétique aqueuse comprenant une alkylcellulose, des huiles non volatiles, une cire particulière et un tensioactif
US20160120788A1 (en) * 2013-06-03 2016-05-05 L'oreal Cosmetic compositions comprising an associative polyurethane and a hydrophobic coated pigment
US20170326060A1 (en) * 2014-10-31 2017-11-16 Shiseido Company, Ltd. Elastic jelly-like composition
WO2018108878A1 (fr) 2016-12-16 2018-06-21 L'oreal Émulsion de type h/e comprenant un alcool gras en c16 à c30, un tensioactif anionique, une huile, une cire et un solvant hydrophile
US20200109231A1 (en) * 2017-04-04 2020-04-09 Polymerexpert Sa New polyurethane gelling agent
WO2020002538A1 (fr) 2018-06-28 2020-01-02 L'oreal Composition comprenant un alcool gras saturé, au moins un tensioactif anionique à chaîne grasse, un polyol et au moins une huile de silicone

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