WO2024101178A1 - Cosmetic for correcting unevenness - Google Patents
Cosmetic for correcting unevenness Download PDFInfo
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- WO2024101178A1 WO2024101178A1 PCT/JP2023/038811 JP2023038811W WO2024101178A1 WO 2024101178 A1 WO2024101178 A1 WO 2024101178A1 JP 2023038811 W JP2023038811 W JP 2023038811W WO 2024101178 A1 WO2024101178 A1 WO 2024101178A1
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- WO
- WIPO (PCT)
- Prior art keywords
- oil
- cosmetic
- mass
- powder
- acid
- Prior art date
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- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 78
- 239000000843 powder Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 47
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- 239000007762 w/o emulsion Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 9
- 239000003921 oil Substances 0.000 claims description 66
- -1 fatty acid esters Chemical class 0.000 claims description 28
- 235000014113 dietary fatty acids Nutrition 0.000 claims description 27
- 239000000194 fatty acid Substances 0.000 claims description 27
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- 238000002156 mixing Methods 0.000 claims description 15
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- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 abstract description 27
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- JAZBEHYOTPTENJ-JLNKQSITSA-N all-cis-5,8,11,14,17-icosapentaenoic acid Chemical compound CC\C=C/C\C=C/C\C=C/C\C=C/C\C=C/CCCC(O)=O JAZBEHYOTPTENJ-JLNKQSITSA-N 0.000 description 2
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Definitions
- the present invention relates to an unevenness-correcting cosmetic. More specifically, it relates to a low-viscosity cosmetic that contains a polar oil such as an ultraviolet absorbent, and is an oil-based or water-in-oil emulsion-type cosmetic that can provide an excellent unevenness-correcting effect (pore correction effect) that can be sustained.
- a polar oil such as an ultraviolet absorbent
- base makeup makeup base and foundation
- base makeup makesup base and foundation
- Conventional unevenness-correcting cosmetics use oil-based powder dispersed in it that penetrates into pores and other recesses to correct unevenness in the skin, while the powder's light reflection, diffusion, or interference effects blur the unevenness, making it less visible.
- Patent Document 1 discloses a cosmetic that achieves both pore and texture correction and a glossy finish by blending a hydrophilic spherical powder in the internal phase (aqueous phase) of a water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic and a hydrophobic plate-shaped powder in the external phase (oil phase).
- Patent Document 2 discloses a skin preparation that is effective in concealing aging pores with enlarged openings on the skin surface, by combining and blending hemispherical or semi-ellipsoidal powder with a powder whose main component is a (meth)acrylic acid ester polymer and whose particles are plate-shaped.
- Patent Document 3 discloses a cosmetic composition for correcting unevenness that contains a prescribed amount of (a) fumed hydrophobic silica, (b) octamethyltrisiloxane and/or decamethyltetrasiloxane, (c) batyl alcohol, and (d) a powder other than (a), and is said to be free of so-called plastic microbeads and to have excellent usability and stability over time.
- the objective of the present invention is to provide an unevenness (pore) correcting cosmetic product that has low viscosity but is excellent in correcting skin unevenness, particularly pores, and can maintain this excellent correction effect for a long period of time.
- the present invention provides: (A) Powders (excluding color pigments); (B) 0.2 to 15% by weight of a color pigment; (C) a polar oil; and (D) Provided is an oil-based or water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic comprising 2 to 10% by mass of an oil gelling agent.
- the oil-based or water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic of the present invention is excellent in correcting unevenness of the skin, particularly in making pores less noticeable, and this effect lasts for a long time. Therefore, there is no need to frequently touch up your makeup. Also, by adjusting the amount of color pigment blended, it is possible to achieve an extremely natural finish that looks like bare skin without makeup. Furthermore, by blending an ester oil and an ultraviolet absorbing agent as a polar oil, it is possible to create a base makeup that is easy to use and has excellent ultraviolet protection effects.
- the oil-based or water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic of the present invention contains the following essential components: (A) powder (excluding color pigments); (B) color pigment; (C) polar oil; and (D) oil gelling agent.
- the "powder” (also referred to as “component (A)”) in the cosmetic of the present invention may be an inorganic powder or an organic powder that has conventionally been used in cosmetics and the like.
- inorganic powders include talc, kaolin, mica (mica, sericite, white mica, gold mica, synthetic mica, red mica, black mica, etc.), vermiculite, magnesium carbonate, calcium carbonate, aluminum silicate, barium silicate, calcium silicate, magnesium silicate, strontium silicate, metal tungstate, magnesium, silica (anhydrous silicic acid), zeolite, barium sulfate, calcined calcium sulfate (calcined gypsum), calcium phosphate, fluorapatite, hydroxyapatite, ceramic powder, metal soap (e.g., zinc myristate, calcium palmitate, aluminum stearate, etc.), boron nitride, and fine particle titanium oxide and fine particle zinc oxide.
- organic powders examples include polyamide resin powder (nylon powder), polyethylene powder, polymethyl methacrylate powder, polystyrene powder, styrene-acrylic acid copolymer resin powder, benzoguanamine resin powder, polytetrafluoroethylene powder, and cellulose powder.
- the powder (component (A)) to be blended in the cosmetic of the present invention is preferably a powder with hydrophobic surface that can be dispersed in oil. Therefore, in the case of a powder made of a hydrophilic material, it is preferable to blend it as a powder whose surface has been hydrophobized.
- hydrophobization treatment agents include silicone compounds, fluorine-modified silicone compounds, fluorine compounds, higher fatty acids, higher alcohols, fatty acid esters, metal soaps, amino acids, and alkyl phosphates.
- the particle shape of the powder is not particularly limited, and powders of spherical, plate-like, needle-like, etc. shapes can be used.
- the average particle size of the powder is also not particularly limited, but from the viewpoint of ultraviolet protection effect, it is preferable to include fine particle titanium oxide or fine particle zinc oxide, and from the viewpoint of usability, it is preferable to include spherical powder such as spherical silica.
- the amount of powder (component (A)) in the cosmetic of the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it is an amount that exhibits an unevenness correction effect. Usually, it is preferable to blend in an amount in the range of 1 to 50 mass% relative to the total amount of the cosmetic.
- the amount of powder (component (A)) can be appropriately set within the above-mentioned preferred range.
- the lower limit of the blending amount range relative to the total amount of the cosmetic may be 5 mass% or more, 8 mass% or more, 10 mass% or more, or 12 mass% or more.
- the upper limit of the blending amount range relative to the total amount of the cosmetic may be 40 mass% or less, 35 mass% or less, 30 mass% or less, or 20 mass% or less, etc.
- the "coloring pigment” (also referred to as “component (B)”) in the cosmetic of the present invention is a pigment powder that is blended into the cosmetic as a coloring material.
- This "coloring pigment” (component (B)) includes colored pigments such as iron oxide, white pigments such as pigment-grade titanium oxide and pigment-grade zinc oxide, pearl pigments, organic pigments, etc.
- Coloring pigments include, for example, white pigments such as titanium oxide and zinc oxide, inorganic red pigments such as iron oxide (red ocher) and iron titanate, inorganic brown pigments such as gamma-iron oxide, inorganic yellow pigments such as yellow iron oxide and ocher, inorganic black pigments such as black iron oxide, carbon and low-order titanium oxide, inorganic purple pigments such as mango violet and cobalt violet, inorganic green pigments such as chromium oxide, chromium hydroxide and cobalt titanate, inorganic blue pigments such as ultramarine and Prussian blue, titanium oxide-coated mica, titanium oxide-coated bismuth oxychloride and titanium oxide-coated talc.
- white pigments such as titanium oxide and zinc oxide
- inorganic red pigments such as iron oxide (red ocher) and iron titanate
- inorganic brown pigments such as gamma-iron oxide
- inorganic yellow pigments such as yellow iron oxide and ocher
- pearl pigments such as colored titanium oxide-coated mica, bismuth oxychloride, and fish scale foil
- metal powder pigments such as aluminum powder and copper powder
- organic pigments such as Red No. 202, Red No. 205, Red No. 220, Red No. 228, Red No. 405, Orange No. 203, Orange No. 204, Yellow No. 205, Yellow No. 401, and Blue No. 404
- organic pigments such as zirconium, barium, and aluminum lake, including Red No. 3, Red No. 104, Red No. 227, Red No. 401, Orange No. 205, Yellow No. 4, Yellow No. 202, Green No. 3, and Blue No. 1.
- the blending amount of the color pigment (component (B)) in the cosmetic of the present invention is within the range of 0.2 to 15% by mass based on the total amount of the cosmetic. If the blending amount is less than 0.2% by mass, a sufficient unevenness correction effect cannot be obtained. If the blending amount exceeds 15% by mass, although the unevenness correction effect can be obtained, it is not preferable because it gives a thick coating feeling. In order to achieve a natural finish like bare skin without makeup when the cosmetic of the present invention is applied, it is effective to reduce the amount of color pigment to be blended. For example, an extremely natural finish can be achieved by making the amount of color pigment 5% by mass or less, preferably 3% by mass or less, more preferably 2% by mass or less, based on the total amount of the cosmetic.
- polar oil (also referred to as “component (C)) in the present invention refers to an oil with high polarity among oils (excluding silicone oils) that are liquid at room temperature (25°C) and can be blended into a cosmetic, and preferably has an IOB value of 0.10 or more, 0.11 or more, 0.12 or more, or 0.13 or more.
- the upper limit of the IOB value of the polar oil (component (C)) is not particularly limited, but may be, for example, 0.50 or less, 0.45 or less, or 0.40 or less.
- inorganic value is set according to various atoms or functional groups, for example, the “organic value” is 20 for one carbon atom in a molecule, and the “inorganic value” is 100 for one hydroxyl group, and the "inorganic value” and “organic value” of each atom and functional group in an organic compound are integrated to calculate the IOB value of the organic compound (for example, see “Organic Conceptual Diagram - Basics and Applications” by Yoshio Koda, pp. 11-17, Sankyo Publishing, 1984).
- Representative examples of the "polar oil” (component (C)) in the present invention are ester oil and ultraviolet absorbers.
- ester oils include tripropylene glycol dineopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, myristyl myristate, decyl oleate, hexyldecyl dimethyloctanoate, cetyl lactate, myristyl lactate, lanolin acetate, isocetyl stearate, isocetyl isostearate, cholesteryl 12-hydroxystearate, cetyl ethylhexanoate, ethylene glycol di-2-ethylhexanoate, dipentaerythritol fatty acid ester, N-alkyl glycol monoisostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprate
- Ultraviolet absorbers that are liquid at room temperature (25°C) include, but are not limited to, benzoic acid derivatives, salicylic acid derivatives, cinnamic acid derivatives, dibenzoylmethane derivatives, ⁇ , ⁇ -diphenylacrylate derivatives, benzophenone derivatives, benzylidene camphor derivatives, phenylbenzimidazole derivatives, triazine derivatives, phenylbenzotriazole derivatives, anthranil derivatives, imidazoline derivatives, benzalmalonate derivatives, 4,4-diarylbutadiene derivatives, etc.
- benzoic acid derivatives include ethyl p-aminobenzoate (PABA), ethyl-dihydroxypropyl PABA, ethylhexyl-dimethyl PABA, glyceryl PABA, PEG-25-PABA, and diethylaminohydroxybenzoylhexyl benzoate.
- PABA ethyl p-aminobenzoate
- ethyl-dihydroxypropyl PABA ethylhexyl-dimethyl PABA
- glyceryl PABA glyceryl PABA
- PEG-25-PABA diethylaminohydroxybenzoylhexyl benzoate
- salicylic acid derivatives include homosalate, ethylhexyl salicylate (octyl salicylate), dipropylene glycol salicylate, and TEA salicylate.
- cinnamic acid derivatives include ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, isopropyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl methoxycinnamate, cinoxate, DEA methoxycinnamate, diisopropyl methylcinnamate, glyceryl-ethylhexanoate-dimethoxycinnamate, and di-(2-ethylhexyl)-4'-methoxybenzalmalonate.
- dibenzoylmethane derivative is butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane).
- ⁇ , ⁇ -diphenylacrylate derivative is octocrylene.
- benzophenone derivatives include benzophenone (oxybenzone)-1, benzophenone-2, benzophenone-3, benzophenone-4, benzophenone-5, benzophenone-6, benzophenone-8, benzophenone-9, and benzophenone-12.
- triazine derivatives include anisotriazine (bisethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine), ethylhexyl triazone, diethylhexylbutamido triazone, and 2,4,6-tris(diisobutyl-4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine.
- phenylbenzotriazole derivatives include drometrizole trisiloxane and methylene bis(benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol).
- anthranil derivative include menthyl anthranilate.
- the imidazoline derivative include ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidene dioxoimidazolidine propionate.
- benzalmalonate derivatives include polyorganosiloxanes having a benzalmalonate functional group.
- a specific example of the 4,4-diarylbutadiene derivative is 1,1-dicarboxy(2,2'-dimethylpropyl)-4,4-diphenylbutadiene.
- the cosmetic of the present invention when an ester oil is blended as a polar oil, the usability (smoothness) of the cosmetic is improved. Furthermore, when an ultraviolet absorber is blended, the cosmetic can be made to have ultraviolet protection properties.
- the ester oil and the ultraviolet absorber may each be used alone or in a mixture of two or more types. From the viewpoint of obtaining an excellent ultraviolet protection effect (high SPF), it is preferable to include an ultraviolet absorber.
- the amount of polar oil (component (C)) in the cosmetic of the present invention is not particularly limited, but in order to obtain smooth usability, it is preferably blended in at least 5% by mass, more preferably at least 8% by mass, and even more preferably at least 10% by mass, based on the total amount of the cosmetic.
- amount of polar oil blended can be, for example, 98% by mass or less, or 97% by mass or less, based on the total amount of the cosmetic.
- oil gelling agent (also referred to as “component (D)" is a component that has the function of thickening (gelling) an oil by dissolving in the oil or swelling with the oil.
- the "oil gelling agent” (component (D)) in the cosmetic of the present invention has the above-mentioned thickening (gelling) function, particularly with respect to polar oil (component (C)), and can be appropriately selected from substances that can be used in cosmetics and the like.
- crosslinked silicone powder which swells with silicone oil and has the effect of increasing the apparent viscosity of the silicone oil, is considered to have no or only a weak thickening (gelling) function with respect to polar oil, and is therefore not included in the oil gelling agent (component (D)) in the present invention.
- oil gelling agents preferably used in the present invention include amino acid gelling agents, sugar fatty acid esters, waxes, fatty acids or salts thereof that are solid at room temperature (25°C), glyceryl fatty acid esters, and organically modified clay minerals. These oil gelling agents may be used alone or in combination of two or more.
- amino acid gelling agents examples include dibutyl lauroyl glutamide, dibutyl ethylhexanoyl glutamide, polyamide-8, polyamide-3, etc.
- the sugar fatty acid ester includes dextrin fatty acid ester and sucrose fatty acid ester.
- the dextrin fatty acid ester is an ester of dextrin or reduced dextrin with a higher fatty acid, and can be used without any particular limitation as long as it is one that is generally used in cosmetics. It is preferable to use dextrin or reduced dextrin with an average degree of glycopolymerization of 3 to 100. In addition, it is preferable to use a saturated fatty acid having 8 to 22 carbon atoms as the fatty acid constituting the dextrin fatty acid ester. Specific examples include dextrin palmitate, dextrin oleate, dextrin stearate, dextrin myristate, and dextrin (palmitate/2-ethylhexanoate).
- Sucrose fatty acid esters in which the fatty acid is linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and has 12 to 22 carbon atoms can be preferably used. Specific examples include sucrose caprylate, sucrose caprate, sucrose laurate, sucrose myristic acid, sucrose palmitate, sucrose stearate, sucrose oleate, and sucrose erucate.
- Waxes can be selected from those that are commonly used in cosmetics. Specific examples include natural waxes such as candelilla wax, carnauba wax, beeswax, and Japan wax; and mineral waxes such as polyethylene wax, paraffin wax, ceresin wax, and microcrystalline wax, but are not limited to these.
- the fatty acids used as oil gelling agents are solid fatty acids at room temperature (25°C), such as myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, and 12-hydroxystearic acid. These fatty acids may also be blended in the form of a salt (e.g., calcium salt, magnesium salt, aluminum salt, etc.).
- a salt e.g., calcium salt, magnesium salt, aluminum salt, etc.
- Glyceryl fatty acid esters are esterification reaction products obtained by reacting glycerin, a dibasic acid having 18 to 28 carbon atoms, and a fatty acid having 8 to 28 carbon atoms (excluding dibasic acids), and can be used without any particular restrictions as long as they are commonly used in cosmetics, etc. Specific examples include glyceryl (behenic acid/isostearic acid/eicosane dioic acid), glyceryl (behenic acid/eicosane dioic acid), polyglyceryl-10 (behenic acid/eicosane dioic acid), etc.
- organically modified clay minerals include dimethyl distearammonium hectorite, disteardimonium hectorite, dimethyl alkyl ammonium hectorite, benzyl dimethyl stearyl ammonium hectorite, and magnesium aluminum silicate treated with distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride.
- Commercially available products include Bentone 27 (benzyl dimethyl stearyl ammonium chloride treated hectorite: manufactured by Elementis Japan Co., Ltd.) and Bentone 38 (distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride treated hectorite: manufactured by Elementis Japan Co., Ltd.).
- the oil gelling agent (component (D)) used in the cosmetic of the present invention preferably contains at least one selected from the group consisting of amino acid-based gelling agents, sugar fatty acid esters, waxes, fatty acids that are solid at room temperature, and organically modified clay minerals.
- an amino acid-based gelling agent and in particular polyamide-8.
- the amount of oil gelling agent (component (D)) in the cosmetic of the present invention is 2-10% by mass, preferably 2-8% by mass, and more preferably 2-5% by mass, based on the total amount of the cosmetic. If the amount is less than 2% by mass, a sufficient unevenness correction (pore correction) effect cannot be obtained. If the amount is more than 10% by mass, stickiness may occur.
- the cosmetic of the present invention is an "oil-based or water-in-oil type emulsion cosmetic” (hereinafter collectively referred to as “oil-based cosmetic”).
- An “oil-based cosmetic” refers to a cosmetic in which oil is initially felt when applied to the skin, and may contain a small amount of water or may be in a water-free (anhydrous) form.
- the blending amount of water is preferably 25% by mass or less, and more preferably 20% by mass or less.
- the cosmetic composition of the present invention is a cosmetic composition that has low viscosity and excellent unevenness correction (pore correction) effects. Therefore, it is preferable that the viscosity of the cosmetic composition of the present invention is 10,000 mPa ⁇ s or less. By adjusting the viscosity to such a low level, it is possible to achieve a smooth feel when used and a natural finish.
- the cosmetic of the present invention may contain other optional components that may be typically incorporated into cosmetics, etc., to the extent that the effects of the present invention are not impaired.
- Other optional components include, but are not limited to, oils other than polar oils, surfactants, moisturizers, film-forming agents, chelating agents, lower alcohols (ethanol, isopropanol, etc.), pH adjusters (buffers such as lactic acid/sodium lactate, citric acid/sodium citrate, etc.), preservatives, antioxidants, fragrances, and various pharmaceutical agents.
- Oils other than polar oils can be selected from oils that are liquid, semi-solid, or solid at room temperature (25°C) and can be normally used in cosmetics, etc. Specific examples include hydrocarbon oils, higher fatty acids, higher alcohols, oils and fats, silicone oils, etc.
- hydrocarbon oil examples include liquid paraffin and squalane.
- higher fatty acids include lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, undecylenic acid, tallic acid, isostearic acid, linoleic acid, linoleic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA), and docosahexaenoic acid (DHA).
- Higher alcohols include straight-chain alcohols such as lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, and cetostearyl alcohol; and branched-chain alcohols such as monostearyl glycerin ether (batyl alcohol), 2-decyltetradecyl alcohol, lanolin alcohol, cholesterol, phytosterol, hexyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, and octyldodecanol.
- straight-chain alcohols such as lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, and cetostearyl alcohol
- branched-chain alcohols such as monostearyl glycerin ether (batyl alcohol), 2-decyltetradecyl alcohol, lanolin alcohol, cholesterol, phytosterol, hexyldodecanol, is
- silicone oils examples include chain silicone oils and cyclic silicone oils such as dimethylpolysiloxane (dimethicone), phenyl-modified silicone (diphenylsiloxyphenyltrimethicone, etc.), and alkyl-modified silicone (caprylyl methicone, etc.).
- the surfactant is not particularly limited, but examples thereof include silicone surfactants, particularly silicone surfactants having an HLB value of 6 or less, such as PEG-10 dimethicone and PEG-9 dimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone.
- silicone surfactants particularly silicone surfactants having an HLB value of 6 or less, such as PEG-10 dimethicone and PEG-9 dimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone.
- the present invention also encompasses embodiments that do not include siloxane compounds having polyoxyalkylene groups and amidoalkyl groups in the branch polymer, such as PEG-12 methyl ether lauroxy PEG-5 amidopropyl dimethicone.
- moisturizers include dihydric alcohols (ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, propanediol, etc.); trihydric alcohols (glycerin, etc.); tetrahydric alcohols (pentaerythritol such as 1,2,6-hexanetriol, etc.); pentahydric alcohols (xylitol, etc.); polyhydric alcohol polymers (diglycerin, dipropylene glycol, triethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, etc.); sugar alcohols (sorbitol, mannitol, etc.), hyaluronic acid, etc.
- dihydric alcohols ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, propanediol, etc.
- trihydric alcohols glycerin, etc.
- tetrahydric alcohols pentahydric alcohols (xylitol, etc.)
- polyhydric alcohol polymers diglycerin, diprop
- the cosmetic of the present invention can be produced using a method commonly used for oil-based or water-in-oil emulsion cosmetics.
- an oil-based (anhydrous) cosmetic it can be produced by stirring and mixing the oily components while optionally heating them as necessary, and dispersing a powder in the mixture.
- a water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic it can be produced by stirring and mixing the components (including powder) that make up the oil phase while optionally heating them as necessary, separately stirring and mixing the components that make up the water phase while optionally heating them as necessary, and mixing and emulsifying the water phase into the oil phase while stirring.
- the cosmetic of the present invention is an oil-based cosmetic that has low viscosity, a smooth feel when used, and excellent unevenness correction (pore correction) effects. Therefore, it is suitable for use as a makeup cosmetic such as a makeup base or foundation.
- a makeup base in which the blending amount of color pigment is adjusted to 5% by mass or less can achieve a natural finish that looks as if no makeup is being applied.
- Water-in-oil emulsion cosmetics were prepared in the usual manner using the formulations shown in Tables 1 to 4 below. The properties of each example of the cosmetics were measured and evaluated using the following methods.
- Example 5 which contained less than 10% polar oil by mass, spread slightly more heavily when applied.
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- Cosmetics (AREA)
Abstract
The purpose of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic for correcting unevenness (pores) that has an excellent corrective effect on unevenness of the skin, especially pores, while having low viscosity and that is capable of maintaining this excellent corrective effect for an extended period of time. The present invention relates to an oily or a water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic that contains (A) a powder (however, excluding colored pigments); (B) 0.2 to 15 mass% of a colored pigment; (C) a polar oil; and (D) 2 to 10 mass% of an oil gelling agent.
Description
本発明は凹凸補正化粧料に関する。より詳細には、紫外線吸収剤等の極性油を配合した低粘度の化粧料であって、優れた凹凸補正効果(毛穴補正効果)を持続的に発揮することができる、油性または油中水型乳化型の化粧料に関する。
The present invention relates to an unevenness-correcting cosmetic. More specifically, it relates to a low-viscosity cosmetic that contains a polar oil such as an ultraviolet absorbent, and is an oil-based or water-in-oil emulsion-type cosmetic that can provide an excellent unevenness-correcting effect (pore correction effect) that can be sustained.
ベースメーキャップ(化粧下地やファンデーション)に求められる機能の一つとして、毛穴等の肌の凹凸を目立たなくする凹凸補正機能がある。従来の凹凸補正化粧料は、粉末を分散した油分が毛穴等の凹部に入り込み、肌の凹凸を補正するとともに、粉末による光反射や拡散、あるいは干渉作用によって、凹凸をぼかして見えにくくする効果を発揮している。
One of the functions required for base makeup (makeup base and foundation) is the ability to correct unevenness in the skin, making pores and other irregularities less noticeable. Conventional unevenness-correcting cosmetics use oil-based powder dispersed in it that penetrates into pores and other recesses to correct unevenness in the skin, while the powder's light reflection, diffusion, or interference effects blur the unevenness, making it less visible.
特許文献1には、油中水型乳化化粧料の内相(水相)に親水性の球状粉末を配合し、外相(油相)に疎水性板状粉末を配合することにより、毛穴・キメ補正効果とツヤのある仕上がりを両立した化粧料が開示されている。
Patent Document 1 discloses a cosmetic that achieves both pore and texture correction and a glossy finish by blending a hydrophilic spherical powder in the internal phase (aqueous phase) of a water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic and a hydrophobic plate-shaped powder in the external phase (oil phase).
特許文献2には、半球状又は半楕円球状の粉体と、(メタ)アクリル酸エステル系重合体を主成分とし粒子形状が板状である粉体とを組み合わせて配合することにより、皮膚表面の開口部が広がった加齢毛穴を隠す効果に優れた皮膚外用剤が開示されている。
Patent Document 2 discloses a skin preparation that is effective in concealing aging pores with enlarged openings on the skin surface, by combining and blending hemispherical or semi-ellipsoidal powder with a powder whose main component is a (meth)acrylic acid ester polymer and whose particles are plate-shaped.
また、特許文献3には、(a)煙霧状疎水化シリカ、(b)オクタメチルトリシロキサン及び/又はデカメチルテトラシロキサン、(c)バチルアルコール、(d)(a)以外の粉末を所定量配合した凹凸補正化粧料が開示され、いわゆるマイクロプラスチックビーズを含まず、使用感と経時安定性に優れるとされている。
Patent Document 3 discloses a cosmetic composition for correcting unevenness that contains a prescribed amount of (a) fumed hydrophobic silica, (b) octamethyltrisiloxane and/or decamethyltetrasiloxane, (c) batyl alcohol, and (d) a powder other than (a), and is said to be free of so-called plastic microbeads and to have excellent usability and stability over time.
上記のように、毛穴等の凹凸補正効果を持つ化粧料には様々な改良がなされているが、低粘度のベースメーキャップの使用性を向上させ、かつ紫外線防御機能を付与するためにエステル油や紫外線吸収剤を配合すると、経時的に化粧膜が薄くなり、毛穴等の凹部に入り込んだ粉末によって凹凸が却って目立ってしまうという問題が生じていた。
As mentioned above, various improvements have been made to cosmetics that have the effect of correcting unevenness such as pores, but when ester oils or UV absorbers are added to improve the usability of low-viscosity base makeup and to impart UV protection, the cosmetic film becomes thinner over time, and the powder that gets into the recesses of pores and other areas makes the unevenness more noticeable.
本発明は、低粘度でありながら皮膚の凹凸、特に毛穴の補正効果に優れ、当該優れた補正効果を長時間持続することができる凹凸(毛穴)補正化粧料を提供することを課題とする。
The objective of the present invention is to provide an unevenness (pore) correcting cosmetic product that has low viscosity but is excellent in correcting skin unevenness, particularly pores, and can maintain this excellent correction effect for a long period of time.
本発明者らは、前記課題を解決するために鋭意検討を重ねた結果、極性油を含む低粘度の化粧料において、粉末(着色顔料以外)と着色顔料を組み合わせて配合し、なおかつ所定量のオイルゲル化剤を配合することにより、長時間にわたって凹凸補正効果を発揮できることを見出し、本発明を完成するに至った。
As a result of extensive research into solving the above problems, the inventors discovered that in a low-viscosity cosmetic composition containing polar oil, by combining powder (other than color pigments) with color pigments and also adding a specified amount of oil gelling agent, it is possible to achieve a long-term unevenness correction effect, which led to the completion of the present invention.
すなわち本発明は、
(A)粉末(但し、着色顔料を除く);
(B)0.2~15質量%の着色顔料;
(C)極性油;および、
(D)2~10質量%のオイルゲル化剤を含む、油性又は油中水型乳化化粧料を提供する。 That is, the present invention provides:
(A) Powders (excluding color pigments);
(B) 0.2 to 15% by weight of a color pigment;
(C) a polar oil; and
(D) Provided is an oil-based or water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic comprising 2 to 10% by mass of an oil gelling agent.
(A)粉末(但し、着色顔料を除く);
(B)0.2~15質量%の着色顔料;
(C)極性油;および、
(D)2~10質量%のオイルゲル化剤を含む、油性又は油中水型乳化化粧料を提供する。 That is, the present invention provides:
(A) Powders (excluding color pigments);
(B) 0.2 to 15% by weight of a color pigment;
(C) a polar oil; and
(D) Provided is an oil-based or water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic comprising 2 to 10% by mass of an oil gelling agent.
本発明の油性又は油中水型乳化化粧料は、肌の凹凸補正、特に毛穴を目立たなくする効果に優れ、当該効果が長時間にわたって持続する。よって、頻繁に化粧直しをする必要がない。また、着色顔料の配合量を調整することにより、まるで化粧をしていない素肌のような極めて自然な仕上がりとすることができる。さらに、極性油としてエステル油及び紫外線吸収剤を配合すれば、使用性が良好で紫外線防御効果に優れたベースメーキャップとすることができる。
The oil-based or water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic of the present invention is excellent in correcting unevenness of the skin, particularly in making pores less noticeable, and this effect lasts for a long time. Therefore, there is no need to frequently touch up your makeup. Also, by adjusting the amount of color pigment blended, it is possible to achieve an extremely natural finish that looks like bare skin without makeup. Furthermore, by blending an ester oil and an ultraviolet absorbing agent as a polar oil, it is possible to create a base makeup that is easy to use and has excellent ultraviolet protection effects.
本発明の油性又は油中水型乳化化粧料(以下、単に「化粧料」ともいう)は、(A)粉末(但し、着色顔料を除く);(B)着色顔料、(C)極性油;および、(D)オイルゲル化剤を必須成分として含有する。
The oil-based or water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic of the present invention (hereinafter, simply referred to as "cosmetic") contains the following essential components: (A) powder (excluding color pigments); (B) color pigment; (C) polar oil; and (D) oil gelling agent.
(A)粉末
本発明の化粧料における「粉末」(「(A)成分」ともいう)は、化粧料等に従来から使用されている無機粉末または有機粉末であってよい。
無機粉末としては、例えば、タルク、カオリン、マイカ(雲母、絹雲母(セリサイト)、白雲母、金雲母、合成雲母、紅雲母、黒雲母など)、パーミキュライト、炭酸マグネシウム、炭酸カルシウム、ケイ酸アルミニウム、ケイ酸バリウム、ケイ酸カルシウム、ケイ酸マグネシウム、ケイ酸ストロンチウム、タングステン酸金属塩、マグネシウム、シリカ(無水ケイ酸)、ゼオライト、硫酸バリウム、焼成硫酸カルシウム(焼セッコウ)、リン酸カルシウム、弗素アパタイト、ヒドロキシアパタイト、セラミックパウダー、金属石鹸(例えば、ミリスチン酸亜鉛、パルミチン酸カルシウム、ステアリン酸アルミニウム等)、窒化ホウ素、並びに、微粒子酸化チタン及び微粒子酸化亜鉛等が挙げられる。 (A) Powder The "powder" (also referred to as "component (A)") in the cosmetic of the present invention may be an inorganic powder or an organic powder that has conventionally been used in cosmetics and the like.
Examples of inorganic powders include talc, kaolin, mica (mica, sericite, white mica, gold mica, synthetic mica, red mica, black mica, etc.), vermiculite, magnesium carbonate, calcium carbonate, aluminum silicate, barium silicate, calcium silicate, magnesium silicate, strontium silicate, metal tungstate, magnesium, silica (anhydrous silicic acid), zeolite, barium sulfate, calcined calcium sulfate (calcined gypsum), calcium phosphate, fluorapatite, hydroxyapatite, ceramic powder, metal soap (e.g., zinc myristate, calcium palmitate, aluminum stearate, etc.), boron nitride, and fine particle titanium oxide and fine particle zinc oxide.
本発明の化粧料における「粉末」(「(A)成分」ともいう)は、化粧料等に従来から使用されている無機粉末または有機粉末であってよい。
無機粉末としては、例えば、タルク、カオリン、マイカ(雲母、絹雲母(セリサイト)、白雲母、金雲母、合成雲母、紅雲母、黒雲母など)、パーミキュライト、炭酸マグネシウム、炭酸カルシウム、ケイ酸アルミニウム、ケイ酸バリウム、ケイ酸カルシウム、ケイ酸マグネシウム、ケイ酸ストロンチウム、タングステン酸金属塩、マグネシウム、シリカ(無水ケイ酸)、ゼオライト、硫酸バリウム、焼成硫酸カルシウム(焼セッコウ)、リン酸カルシウム、弗素アパタイト、ヒドロキシアパタイト、セラミックパウダー、金属石鹸(例えば、ミリスチン酸亜鉛、パルミチン酸カルシウム、ステアリン酸アルミニウム等)、窒化ホウ素、並びに、微粒子酸化チタン及び微粒子酸化亜鉛等が挙げられる。 (A) Powder The "powder" (also referred to as "component (A)") in the cosmetic of the present invention may be an inorganic powder or an organic powder that has conventionally been used in cosmetics and the like.
Examples of inorganic powders include talc, kaolin, mica (mica, sericite, white mica, gold mica, synthetic mica, red mica, black mica, etc.), vermiculite, magnesium carbonate, calcium carbonate, aluminum silicate, barium silicate, calcium silicate, magnesium silicate, strontium silicate, metal tungstate, magnesium, silica (anhydrous silicic acid), zeolite, barium sulfate, calcined calcium sulfate (calcined gypsum), calcium phosphate, fluorapatite, hydroxyapatite, ceramic powder, metal soap (e.g., zinc myristate, calcium palmitate, aluminum stearate, etc.), boron nitride, and fine particle titanium oxide and fine particle zinc oxide.
有機粉末としては、例えば、ポリアミド樹脂粉末(ナイロン粉末)、ポリエチレン粉末、ポリメタクリル酸メチル粉末、ポリスチレン粉末、スチレンとアクリル酸の共重合体樹脂粉末、ベンゾグアナミン樹脂粉末、ポリ四弗化エチレン粉末、セルロース粉末等が挙げられる。
Examples of organic powders include polyamide resin powder (nylon powder), polyethylene powder, polymethyl methacrylate powder, polystyrene powder, styrene-acrylic acid copolymer resin powder, benzoguanamine resin powder, polytetrafluoroethylene powder, and cellulose powder.
本発明の化粧料に配合する粉末((A)成分)は、表面疎水性の粉末であって、油中に分散されるものが好ましい。従って、親水性素材の粉末の場合は、表面を疎水化処理した粉末として配合するのが好ましい。表面疎水化に用いる処理剤は特に限定されず、例えば、シリコーン化合物、フッ素変性シリコーン化合物、フッ素化合物、高級脂肪酸、高級アルコール、脂肪酸エステル、金属石鹸、アミノ酸又はアルキルホスフェート等の疎水化処理剤を用いることができる。
The powder (component (A)) to be blended in the cosmetic of the present invention is preferably a powder with hydrophobic surface that can be dispersed in oil. Therefore, in the case of a powder made of a hydrophilic material, it is preferable to blend it as a powder whose surface has been hydrophobized. There are no particular limitations on the treatment agent used for surface hydrophobization, and examples of hydrophobization treatment agents that can be used include silicone compounds, fluorine-modified silicone compounds, fluorine compounds, higher fatty acids, higher alcohols, fatty acid esters, metal soaps, amino acids, and alkyl phosphates.
粉末の粒子形状は特に限定されず、球状、板状、針状等の形状の粉末が使用できる。粉末の平均粒子径も特に限定されないが、紫外線防御効果の観点から、微粒子酸化チタンまたは微粒子酸化亜鉛を含めるのが好ましく、使用性の観点から、球状シリカ等の球状粉末を含めるのが好ましい。
The particle shape of the powder is not particularly limited, and powders of spherical, plate-like, needle-like, etc. shapes can be used. The average particle size of the powder is also not particularly limited, but from the viewpoint of ultraviolet protection effect, it is preferable to include fine particle titanium oxide or fine particle zinc oxide, and from the viewpoint of usability, it is preferable to include spherical powder such as spherical silica.
本発明の化粧料における粉末((A)成分)の配合量は、凹凸補正効果を発揮する量であれば特に限定されない。通常は、化粧料全量に対して、1~50質量%の範囲で配合するのが好ましい。粉末((A)成分)の配合量は前記の好ましい範囲内で適宜設定することができる。例えば、化粧料全量に対する配合量範囲の下限値は、5質量%以上、8質量%以上、10質量%以上、または12質量%以上等としてよい。化粧料全量に対する配合量範囲の上限値は、40質量%以下、35質量%以下、30質量%以下、または20質量%以下等とすることができる。
The amount of powder (component (A)) in the cosmetic of the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it is an amount that exhibits an unevenness correction effect. Usually, it is preferable to blend in an amount in the range of 1 to 50 mass% relative to the total amount of the cosmetic. The amount of powder (component (A)) can be appropriately set within the above-mentioned preferred range. For example, the lower limit of the blending amount range relative to the total amount of the cosmetic may be 5 mass% or more, 8 mass% or more, 10 mass% or more, or 12 mass% or more. The upper limit of the blending amount range relative to the total amount of the cosmetic may be 40 mass% or less, 35 mass% or less, 30 mass% or less, or 20 mass% or less, etc.
(B)着色顔料
本発明の化粧料における「着色顔料」(「(B)成分」ともいう)は、化粧料に色材として配合される顔料粉末である。この「着色顔料」((B)成分)には、酸化鉄等の有色顔料、顔料級酸化チタン及び顔料級酸化亜鉛等の白色顔料、パール顔料、有機顔料等が含まれる。 (B) Coloring Pigment The "coloring pigment" (also referred to as "component (B)") in the cosmetic of the present invention is a pigment powder that is blended into the cosmetic as a coloring material. This "coloring pigment" (component (B)) includes colored pigments such as iron oxide, white pigments such as pigment-grade titanium oxide and pigment-grade zinc oxide, pearl pigments, organic pigments, etc.
本発明の化粧料における「着色顔料」(「(B)成分」ともいう)は、化粧料に色材として配合される顔料粉末である。この「着色顔料」((B)成分)には、酸化鉄等の有色顔料、顔料級酸化チタン及び顔料級酸化亜鉛等の白色顔料、パール顔料、有機顔料等が含まれる。 (B) Coloring Pigment The "coloring pigment" (also referred to as "component (B)") in the cosmetic of the present invention is a pigment powder that is blended into the cosmetic as a coloring material. This "coloring pigment" (component (B)) includes colored pigments such as iron oxide, white pigments such as pigment-grade titanium oxide and pigment-grade zinc oxide, pearl pigments, organic pigments, etc.
着色顔料((B)成分)としては、例えば、酸化チタン及び酸化亜鉛等の白色顔料、酸化鉄(ベンガラ)、チタン酸鉄等の無機赤色顔料、γ-酸化鉄等の無機褐色顔料;黄酸化鉄、黄土等の無機黄色顔料、黒酸化鉄、カーボン、低次酸化チタン等の無機黒色顔料、マンゴバイオレット、コバルトバイオレット等の無機紫色顔料、酸化クロム、水酸化クロム、チタン酸コバルト等の無機緑色顔料、群青、紺青等の無機青色顔料、酸化チタン被覆マイカ、酸化チタン被覆オキシ塩化ビスマス、酸化チタン被覆タルク、着色酸化チタン被覆マイカ、オキシ塩化ビスマス、魚鱗箔等のパール顔料、アルミニウムパウダー、カッパーパウダー等の金属粉末顔料、赤色202号、赤色205号、赤色220号、赤色228号、赤色405号、橙色203号、橙色204号、黄色205号、黄色401号、青色404号等の有機顔料;赤色3号、赤色104号、赤色227号、赤色401号、橙色205号、黄色4号、黄色202号、緑色3号、青色1号等を含むジルコニウム、バリウム、アルミニウムレーキ等の有機顔料が挙げられる。
Coloring pigments (component (B)) include, for example, white pigments such as titanium oxide and zinc oxide, inorganic red pigments such as iron oxide (red ocher) and iron titanate, inorganic brown pigments such as gamma-iron oxide, inorganic yellow pigments such as yellow iron oxide and ocher, inorganic black pigments such as black iron oxide, carbon and low-order titanium oxide, inorganic purple pigments such as mango violet and cobalt violet, inorganic green pigments such as chromium oxide, chromium hydroxide and cobalt titanate, inorganic blue pigments such as ultramarine and Prussian blue, titanium oxide-coated mica, titanium oxide-coated bismuth oxychloride and titanium oxide-coated talc. , pearl pigments such as colored titanium oxide-coated mica, bismuth oxychloride, and fish scale foil; metal powder pigments such as aluminum powder and copper powder; organic pigments such as Red No. 202, Red No. 205, Red No. 220, Red No. 228, Red No. 405, Orange No. 203, Orange No. 204, Yellow No. 205, Yellow No. 401, and Blue No. 404; and organic pigments such as zirconium, barium, and aluminum lake, including Red No. 3, Red No. 104, Red No. 227, Red No. 401, Orange No. 205, Yellow No. 4, Yellow No. 202, Green No. 3, and Blue No. 1.
本発明の化粧料における着色顔料((B)成分)の配合量は、化粧料全量に対して、0.2~15質量%の範囲内である。配合量が0.2質量%未満であると、十分な凹凸補正効果が得られない。配合量が15質量%を超えると、凹凸補正効果は得られるが、厚塗り感を生じるため好ましくない。
なお、本発明の化粧料を塗布した際に、まるで化粧を施していない素肌のような自然な仕上がりとするためには、着色顔料の配合量を抑制するのが有効である。例えば、化粧料全量に対して5質量%以下、好ましくは3質量%以下、より好ましくは2質量%以下とすることで、極めて自然な仕上がりとすることができる。 The blending amount of the color pigment (component (B)) in the cosmetic of the present invention is within the range of 0.2 to 15% by mass based on the total amount of the cosmetic. If the blending amount is less than 0.2% by mass, a sufficient unevenness correction effect cannot be obtained. If the blending amount exceeds 15% by mass, although the unevenness correction effect can be obtained, it is not preferable because it gives a thick coating feeling.
In order to achieve a natural finish like bare skin without makeup when the cosmetic of the present invention is applied, it is effective to reduce the amount of color pigment to be blended. For example, an extremely natural finish can be achieved by making the amount of color pigment 5% by mass or less, preferably 3% by mass or less, more preferably 2% by mass or less, based on the total amount of the cosmetic.
なお、本発明の化粧料を塗布した際に、まるで化粧を施していない素肌のような自然な仕上がりとするためには、着色顔料の配合量を抑制するのが有効である。例えば、化粧料全量に対して5質量%以下、好ましくは3質量%以下、より好ましくは2質量%以下とすることで、極めて自然な仕上がりとすることができる。 The blending amount of the color pigment (component (B)) in the cosmetic of the present invention is within the range of 0.2 to 15% by mass based on the total amount of the cosmetic. If the blending amount is less than 0.2% by mass, a sufficient unevenness correction effect cannot be obtained. If the blending amount exceeds 15% by mass, although the unevenness correction effect can be obtained, it is not preferable because it gives a thick coating feeling.
In order to achieve a natural finish like bare skin without makeup when the cosmetic of the present invention is applied, it is effective to reduce the amount of color pigment to be blended. For example, an extremely natural finish can be achieved by making the amount of color pigment 5% by mass or less, preferably 3% by mass or less, more preferably 2% by mass or less, based on the total amount of the cosmetic.
(C)極性油
本発明における「極性油」(「(C)成分」ともいう)は、化粧料に配合可能な常温(25℃)で液状の油分(シリコーン油を除く)の中で、極性が高い油分を意味し、例えば、IOB値が0.10以上、0.11以上、0.12以上、又は0.13以上の油分が好ましい。極性油((C)成分)のIOB値の上限値は特に限定されないが、例えば、0.50以下、0.45以下、又は0.40以下であってよい。
ここで、「IOB値」とは、「Inorganic/Organic Balance」(無機性/有機性比)の略であり、無機性値の有機性値に対する比率を表す値であり、有機化合物の極性の程度を示す指標の一つとなる。IOB値は、具体的には、IOB値=無機性値/有機性値として表される。「無機性値」、「有機性値」のそれぞれについては、例えば、分子中の炭素原子1個について「有機性値」が20、水酸基1個について「無機性値」が100といったように、各種原子又は官能基に応じた「無機性値」、「有機性値」が設定されており、有機化合物中の全ての原子及び官能基の「無機性値」、「有機性値」を積算することによって、当該有機化合物のIOB値を算出することができる(例えば、甲田善生著、「有機概念図-基礎と応用-」、p.11~17、三共出版、1984年発行参照)。
本発明における「極性油」((C)成分)の代表例は、エステル油及び紫外線吸収剤である。 (C) Polar Oil The "polar oil" (also referred to as "component (C)") in the present invention refers to an oil with high polarity among oils (excluding silicone oils) that are liquid at room temperature (25°C) and can be blended into a cosmetic, and preferably has an IOB value of 0.10 or more, 0.11 or more, 0.12 or more, or 0.13 or more. The upper limit of the IOB value of the polar oil (component (C)) is not particularly limited, but may be, for example, 0.50 or less, 0.45 or less, or 0.40 or less.
Here, the "IOB value" is an abbreviation for "Inorganic/Organic Balance" (inorganic/organic ratio), and is a value that represents the ratio of the inorganic value to the organic value, and is one of the indicators that indicate the degree of polarity of an organic compound. Specifically, the IOB value is expressed as IOB value = inorganic value / organic value. For each of the "inorganic value" and "organic value", "inorganic value" is set according to various atoms or functional groups, for example, the "organic value" is 20 for one carbon atom in a molecule, and the "inorganic value" is 100 for one hydroxyl group, and the "inorganic value" and "organic value" of each atom and functional group in an organic compound are integrated to calculate the IOB value of the organic compound (for example, see "Organic Conceptual Diagram - Basics and Applications" by Yoshio Koda, pp. 11-17, Sankyo Publishing, 1984).
Representative examples of the "polar oil" (component (C)) in the present invention are ester oil and ultraviolet absorbers.
本発明における「極性油」(「(C)成分」ともいう)は、化粧料に配合可能な常温(25℃)で液状の油分(シリコーン油を除く)の中で、極性が高い油分を意味し、例えば、IOB値が0.10以上、0.11以上、0.12以上、又は0.13以上の油分が好ましい。極性油((C)成分)のIOB値の上限値は特に限定されないが、例えば、0.50以下、0.45以下、又は0.40以下であってよい。
ここで、「IOB値」とは、「Inorganic/Organic Balance」(無機性/有機性比)の略であり、無機性値の有機性値に対する比率を表す値であり、有機化合物の極性の程度を示す指標の一つとなる。IOB値は、具体的には、IOB値=無機性値/有機性値として表される。「無機性値」、「有機性値」のそれぞれについては、例えば、分子中の炭素原子1個について「有機性値」が20、水酸基1個について「無機性値」が100といったように、各種原子又は官能基に応じた「無機性値」、「有機性値」が設定されており、有機化合物中の全ての原子及び官能基の「無機性値」、「有機性値」を積算することによって、当該有機化合物のIOB値を算出することができる(例えば、甲田善生著、「有機概念図-基礎と応用-」、p.11~17、三共出版、1984年発行参照)。
本発明における「極性油」((C)成分)の代表例は、エステル油及び紫外線吸収剤である。 (C) Polar Oil The "polar oil" (also referred to as "component (C)") in the present invention refers to an oil with high polarity among oils (excluding silicone oils) that are liquid at room temperature (25°C) and can be blended into a cosmetic, and preferably has an IOB value of 0.10 or more, 0.11 or more, 0.12 or more, or 0.13 or more. The upper limit of the IOB value of the polar oil (component (C)) is not particularly limited, but may be, for example, 0.50 or less, 0.45 or less, or 0.40 or less.
Here, the "IOB value" is an abbreviation for "Inorganic/Organic Balance" (inorganic/organic ratio), and is a value that represents the ratio of the inorganic value to the organic value, and is one of the indicators that indicate the degree of polarity of an organic compound. Specifically, the IOB value is expressed as IOB value = inorganic value / organic value. For each of the "inorganic value" and "organic value", "inorganic value" is set according to various atoms or functional groups, for example, the "organic value" is 20 for one carbon atom in a molecule, and the "inorganic value" is 100 for one hydroxyl group, and the "inorganic value" and "organic value" of each atom and functional group in an organic compound are integrated to calculate the IOB value of the organic compound (for example, see "Organic Conceptual Diagram - Basics and Applications" by Yoshio Koda, pp. 11-17, Sankyo Publishing, 1984).
Representative examples of the "polar oil" (component (C)) in the present invention are ester oil and ultraviolet absorbers.
エステル油の具体例には、ジネオペンタン酸トリプロピレングリコール、イソノナン酸イソノニル、ミリスチン酸イソプロピル、オクタン酸セチル、ミリスチン酸オクチルドデシル、パルミチン酸イソプロピル、ステアリン酸ブチル、ラウリン酸ヘキシル、ミリスチン酸ミリスチル、オレイン酸デシル、ジメチルオクタン酸ヘキシルデシル、乳酸セチル、乳酸ミリスチル、酢酸ラノリン、ステアリン酸イソセチル、イソステアリン酸イソセチル、12-ヒドロキシステアリン酸コレステリル、エチルヘキサン酸セチル、ジ-2-エチルヘキサン酸エチレングリコール、ジペンタエリスリトール脂肪酸エステル、モノイソステアリン酸N-アルキルグリコール、ジカプリン酸ネオペンチルグリコール、リンゴ酸ジイソステアリル、ジ-2-ヘプチルウンデカン酸グリセリン、トリ-2-エチルヘキサン酸トリメチロールプロパン、テトラ-2-エチルヘキサン酸ペンタエリスリチル、トリエチルヘキサノイン(トリ-2-エチルヘキサン酸グリセリン)、トリオクタン酸グリセリン、トリイソパルミチン酸グリセリン、トリイソステアリン酸トリメチロールプロパン、セチル2-エチルヘキサノエート、2-エチルヘキシルパルミテート、トリミリスチン酸グリセリン、トリ-2-ヘプチルウンデカン酸グリセライド、ヒマシ油脂肪酸メチルエステル、オレイン酸オレイル、アセトグリセライド、パルミチン酸2-ヘプチルウンデシル、アジピン酸ジイソブチル、N-ラウロイル-L-グルタミン酸-2-オクチルドデシルエステル、アジピン酸ジ-2-ヘプチルウンデシル、エチルラウレート、セバシン酸ジ-2-エチルヘキシル、ミリスチン酸2-ヘキシルデシル、パルミチン酸2-ヘキシルデシル、アジピン酸2-ヘキシルデシル、セバシン酸ジイソプロピル、コハク酸2-エチルヘキシル、及びクエン酸トリエチル等が挙げられるが、これらに限定されない。
Specific examples of ester oils include tripropylene glycol dineopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, myristyl myristate, decyl oleate, hexyldecyl dimethyloctanoate, cetyl lactate, myristyl lactate, lanolin acetate, isocetyl stearate, isocetyl isostearate, cholesteryl 12-hydroxystearate, cetyl ethylhexanoate, ethylene glycol di-2-ethylhexanoate, dipentaerythritol fatty acid ester, N-alkyl glycol monoisostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprate, diisostearyl malate, glycerin di-2-heptylundecanoate, trimethylolpropane tri-2-ethylhexanoate, pentaerythrityl tetra-2-ethylhexanoate, Triethylhexanoin (tri-2-ethylhexanoic acid glycerin), trioctanoic acid glycerin, triisopalmitic acid glycerin, triisostearate trimethylolpropane, cetyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, trimyristate glycerin, tri-2-heptylundecanoic acid glyceride, castor oil fatty acid methyl ester, oleyl oleate, acetoglyceride, palmitic acid 2-heptyl undecanoic acid undecyl, diisobutyl adipate, N-lauroyl-L-glutamic acid-2-octyldodecyl ester, di-2-heptylundecyl adipate, ethyl laurate, di-2-ethylhexyl sebacate, 2-hexyldecyl myristate, 2-hexyldecyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl adipate, diisopropyl sebacate, 2-ethylhexyl succinate, and triethyl citrate, but are not limited to these.
常温(25℃)で液状の紫外線吸収剤としては、特に限定されないが、安息香酸誘導体、サリチル酸誘導体、ケイ皮酸誘導体、ジベンゾイルメタン誘導体、β,β-ジフェニルアクリレート誘導体、ベンゾフェノン誘導体、ベンジリデンショウノウ誘導体、フェニルベンゾイミダゾール誘導体、トリアジン誘導体、フェニルベンゾトリアゾール誘導体、アントラニル誘導体、イミダゾリン誘導体、ベンザルマロナート誘導体、4,4-ジアリールブタジエン誘導体等が挙げられる。
Ultraviolet absorbers that are liquid at room temperature (25°C) include, but are not limited to, benzoic acid derivatives, salicylic acid derivatives, cinnamic acid derivatives, dibenzoylmethane derivatives, β,β-diphenylacrylate derivatives, benzophenone derivatives, benzylidene camphor derivatives, phenylbenzimidazole derivatives, triazine derivatives, phenylbenzotriazole derivatives, anthranil derivatives, imidazoline derivatives, benzalmalonate derivatives, 4,4-diarylbutadiene derivatives, etc.
安息香酸誘導体の具体例としては、p-アミノ安息香酸(PABA)エチル、エチル-ジヒドロキシプロピルPABA、エチルヘキシル-ジメチルPABA、グリセリルPABA、PEG-25-PABA、ジエチルアミノヒドロキシベンゾイル安息香酸ヘキシル等が挙げられる。
Specific examples of benzoic acid derivatives include ethyl p-aminobenzoate (PABA), ethyl-dihydroxypropyl PABA, ethylhexyl-dimethyl PABA, glyceryl PABA, PEG-25-PABA, and diethylaminohydroxybenzoylhexyl benzoate.
サリチル酸誘導体の具体例としては、ホモサレート、エチルヘキシルサリチレート(サリチル酸オクチル)、ジプロピレングリコールサリチレート、TEAサリチレート等が挙げられる。
Specific examples of salicylic acid derivatives include homosalate, ethylhexyl salicylate (octyl salicylate), dipropylene glycol salicylate, and TEA salicylate.
ケイ皮酸誘導体の具体例としては、メトキシケイ皮酸エチルヘキシル、メトキシケイ皮酸イソプロピル、メトキシケイ皮酸イソアミル、シノキサート、DEAメトキシシンナメート、メチルケイ皮酸ジイソプロピル、グリセリル-エチルヘキサノエート-ジメトキシシンナメート、ジ-(2-エチルヘキシル)-4'-メトキシベンザルマロネート等が挙げられる。
Specific examples of cinnamic acid derivatives include ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, isopropyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl methoxycinnamate, cinoxate, DEA methoxycinnamate, diisopropyl methylcinnamate, glyceryl-ethylhexanoate-dimethoxycinnamate, and di-(2-ethylhexyl)-4'-methoxybenzalmalonate.
ジベンゾイルメタン誘導体の具体例としては、ブチルメトキシジベンゾイルメタン(4-tert-ブチル-4'-メトキシジベンゾイルメタン)等が挙げられる。
β,β-ジフェニルアクリレート誘導体の具体例としては、オクトクリレン等が挙げられる。 A specific example of the dibenzoylmethane derivative is butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane).
A specific example of the β,β-diphenylacrylate derivative is octocrylene.
β,β-ジフェニルアクリレート誘導体の具体例としては、オクトクリレン等が挙げられる。 A specific example of the dibenzoylmethane derivative is butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane).
A specific example of the β,β-diphenylacrylate derivative is octocrylene.
ベンゾフェノン誘導体の具体例としては、ベンゾフェノン(オキシベンゾン)-1、ベンゾフェノン-2、ベンゾフェノン-3、ベンゾフェノン-4、ベンゾフェノン-5、ベンゾフェノン-6、ベンゾフェノン-8、ベンゾフェノン-9、ベンゾフェノン-12等が挙げられる。
トリアジン誘導体の具体例としては、アニソトリアジン(ビスエチルヘキシルオキシフェノールメトキシフェニルトリアジン)、エチルヘキシルトリアゾン、ジエチルヘキシルブタミドトリアゾン、2,4,6-トリス(ジイソブチル-4'-アミノベンザルマロネート)-s-トリアジン等が挙げられる。 Specific examples of the benzophenone derivatives include benzophenone (oxybenzone)-1, benzophenone-2, benzophenone-3, benzophenone-4, benzophenone-5, benzophenone-6, benzophenone-8, benzophenone-9, and benzophenone-12.
Specific examples of triazine derivatives include anisotriazine (bisethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine), ethylhexyl triazone, diethylhexylbutamido triazone, and 2,4,6-tris(diisobutyl-4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine.
トリアジン誘導体の具体例としては、アニソトリアジン(ビスエチルヘキシルオキシフェノールメトキシフェニルトリアジン)、エチルヘキシルトリアゾン、ジエチルヘキシルブタミドトリアゾン、2,4,6-トリス(ジイソブチル-4'-アミノベンザルマロネート)-s-トリアジン等が挙げられる。 Specific examples of the benzophenone derivatives include benzophenone (oxybenzone)-1, benzophenone-2, benzophenone-3, benzophenone-4, benzophenone-5, benzophenone-6, benzophenone-8, benzophenone-9, and benzophenone-12.
Specific examples of triazine derivatives include anisotriazine (bisethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine), ethylhexyl triazone, diethylhexylbutamido triazone, and 2,4,6-tris(diisobutyl-4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine.
フェニルベンゾトリアゾール誘導体の具体例としては、ドロメトリゾールトリシロキサン、メチレンビス(ベンゾトリアゾリルテトラメチルブチルフェノール)等が挙げられる。
アントラニル誘導体の具体例としては、アントラニル酸メンチル等が挙げられる。
イミダゾリン誘導体の具体例としては、エチルヘキシルジメトキシベンジリデンジオキソイミダゾリジンプロピオナート等が挙げられる。 Specific examples of phenylbenzotriazole derivatives include drometrizole trisiloxane and methylene bis(benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol).
Specific examples of the anthranil derivative include menthyl anthranilate.
Specific examples of the imidazoline derivative include ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidene dioxoimidazolidine propionate.
アントラニル誘導体の具体例としては、アントラニル酸メンチル等が挙げられる。
イミダゾリン誘導体の具体例としては、エチルヘキシルジメトキシベンジリデンジオキソイミダゾリジンプロピオナート等が挙げられる。 Specific examples of phenylbenzotriazole derivatives include drometrizole trisiloxane and methylene bis(benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol).
Specific examples of the anthranil derivative include menthyl anthranilate.
Specific examples of the imidazoline derivative include ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidene dioxoimidazolidine propionate.
ベンザルマロナート誘導体の具体例としては、ベンザルマロネート官能基を有するポリオルガノシロキサン等が挙げられる。
4,4-ジアリールブタジエン誘導体の具体例としては、1,1-ジカルボキシ(2,2'-ジメチルプロピル)-4,4-ジフェニルブタジエン等が挙げられる。 Specific examples of benzalmalonate derivatives include polyorganosiloxanes having a benzalmalonate functional group.
A specific example of the 4,4-diarylbutadiene derivative is 1,1-dicarboxy(2,2'-dimethylpropyl)-4,4-diphenylbutadiene.
4,4-ジアリールブタジエン誘導体の具体例としては、1,1-ジカルボキシ(2,2'-ジメチルプロピル)-4,4-ジフェニルブタジエン等が挙げられる。 Specific examples of benzalmalonate derivatives include polyorganosiloxanes having a benzalmalonate functional group.
A specific example of the 4,4-diarylbutadiene derivative is 1,1-dicarboxy(2,2'-dimethylpropyl)-4,4-diphenylbutadiene.
本発明の化粧料において、極性油としてエステル油を配合すると、化粧料の使用性(なめらかさ)が向上する。また、紫外線吸収剤を配合すると、紫外線防御能を有する化粧料とすることができる。エステル油及び紫外線吸収剤は、各々1種類を用いても、2種類以上の混合物で用いてもよい。優れた紫外線防御効果(高SPF)を得る観点から、紫外線吸収剤を含むことが好ましい。
In the cosmetic of the present invention, when an ester oil is blended as a polar oil, the usability (smoothness) of the cosmetic is improved. Furthermore, when an ultraviolet absorber is blended, the cosmetic can be made to have ultraviolet protection properties. The ester oil and the ultraviolet absorber may each be used alone or in a mixture of two or more types. From the viewpoint of obtaining an excellent ultraviolet protection effect (high SPF), it is preferable to include an ultraviolet absorber.
本発明の化粧料における極性油((C)成分)の配合量は、特に限定されないが、なめらかな使用性を得るために、化粧料全量に対して、5質量%以上配合するのが好ましく、より好ましくは8質量%以上、さらに好ましくは10質量%以上である。極性油配合量の上限値は特に限定されず、例えば、化粧料全量に対して、98質量%以下、あるいは97質量%以下などとすることができる。
The amount of polar oil (component (C)) in the cosmetic of the present invention is not particularly limited, but in order to obtain smooth usability, it is preferably blended in at least 5% by mass, more preferably at least 8% by mass, and even more preferably at least 10% by mass, based on the total amount of the cosmetic. There is no particular upper limit to the amount of polar oil blended, and it can be, for example, 98% by mass or less, or 97% by mass or less, based on the total amount of the cosmetic.
(D)オイルゲル化剤
「オイルゲル化剤」(「(D)成分」ともいう)は、油分に溶解する又は油分で膨潤することにより、当該油分を増粘(ゲル化)する機能を有する成分である。本発明の化粧料における「オイルゲル化剤」((D)成分)は、特に極性油((C)成分)に対して前記の増粘(ゲル化)機能を有し、化粧料等に使用され得る物質から適宜選択することができる。例えば、シリコーン油によって膨潤して当該シリコーン油の見かけの粘度を高める作用がある架橋型シリコーン粉末は、極性油に対する増粘(ゲル化)機能を持たない又は弱いと考えられるため、本願発明におけるオイルゲル化剤((D)成分)に含まれない。 (D) Oil Gelling Agent An "oil gelling agent" (also referred to as "component (D)") is a component that has the function of thickening (gelling) an oil by dissolving in the oil or swelling with the oil. The "oil gelling agent" (component (D)) in the cosmetic of the present invention has the above-mentioned thickening (gelling) function, particularly with respect to polar oil (component (C)), and can be appropriately selected from substances that can be used in cosmetics and the like. For example, crosslinked silicone powder, which swells with silicone oil and has the effect of increasing the apparent viscosity of the silicone oil, is considered to have no or only a weak thickening (gelling) function with respect to polar oil, and is therefore not included in the oil gelling agent (component (D)) in the present invention.
「オイルゲル化剤」(「(D)成分」ともいう)は、油分に溶解する又は油分で膨潤することにより、当該油分を増粘(ゲル化)する機能を有する成分である。本発明の化粧料における「オイルゲル化剤」((D)成分)は、特に極性油((C)成分)に対して前記の増粘(ゲル化)機能を有し、化粧料等に使用され得る物質から適宜選択することができる。例えば、シリコーン油によって膨潤して当該シリコーン油の見かけの粘度を高める作用がある架橋型シリコーン粉末は、極性油に対する増粘(ゲル化)機能を持たない又は弱いと考えられるため、本願発明におけるオイルゲル化剤((D)成分)に含まれない。 (D) Oil Gelling Agent An "oil gelling agent" (also referred to as "component (D)") is a component that has the function of thickening (gelling) an oil by dissolving in the oil or swelling with the oil. The "oil gelling agent" (component (D)) in the cosmetic of the present invention has the above-mentioned thickening (gelling) function, particularly with respect to polar oil (component (C)), and can be appropriately selected from substances that can be used in cosmetics and the like. For example, crosslinked silicone powder, which swells with silicone oil and has the effect of increasing the apparent viscosity of the silicone oil, is considered to have no or only a weak thickening (gelling) function with respect to polar oil, and is therefore not included in the oil gelling agent (component (D)) in the present invention.
本発明で好ましく用いられるオイルゲル化剤((D)成分)の具体例として、アミノ酸系ゲル化剤、糖脂肪酸エステル、ロウ類、常温(25℃)で固体の脂肪酸又はその塩、グリセリル脂肪酸エステル、及び有機変性粘土鉱物等を挙げることができる。これらのオイルゲル化剤は、単独で用いてもよいし、2種以上を組み合わせて用いてもよい。
Specific examples of oil gelling agents (component (D)) preferably used in the present invention include amino acid gelling agents, sugar fatty acid esters, waxes, fatty acids or salts thereof that are solid at room temperature (25°C), glyceryl fatty acid esters, and organically modified clay minerals. These oil gelling agents may be used alone or in combination of two or more.
アミノ酸系ゲル化剤は、ジブチルラウロイルグルタミド、ジブチルエチルヘキサノイルグルタミド、ポリアミド-8、ポリアミド-3等を挙げることができる。
Examples of amino acid gelling agents include dibutyl lauroyl glutamide, dibutyl ethylhexanoyl glutamide, polyamide-8, polyamide-3, etc.
糖脂肪酸エステルは、デキストリン脂肪酸エステルとショ糖脂肪酸エステルを含む。
デキストリン脂肪酸エステルは、デキストリンまたは還元デキストリンと高級脂肪酸とのエステルであり、化粧料に一般的に使用されているものであれば特に制限されず使用することができる。デキストリンまたは還元デキストリンは平均糖重合度が3~100のものを用いるのが好ましい。また、デキストリン脂肪酸エステルを構成する脂肪酸としては、炭素数8~22の飽和脂肪酸を用いるのが好ましい。具体的には、パルミチン酸デキストリン、オレイン酸デキストリン、ステアリン酸デキストリン、ミリスチン酸デキストリン、(パルミチン酸/2-エチルヘキサン酸)デキストリン等を挙げることができる。 The sugar fatty acid ester includes dextrin fatty acid ester and sucrose fatty acid ester.
The dextrin fatty acid ester is an ester of dextrin or reduced dextrin with a higher fatty acid, and can be used without any particular limitation as long as it is one that is generally used in cosmetics. It is preferable to use dextrin or reduced dextrin with an average degree of glycopolymerization of 3 to 100. In addition, it is preferable to use a saturated fatty acid having 8 to 22 carbon atoms as the fatty acid constituting the dextrin fatty acid ester. Specific examples include dextrin palmitate, dextrin oleate, dextrin stearate, dextrin myristate, and dextrin (palmitate/2-ethylhexanoate).
デキストリン脂肪酸エステルは、デキストリンまたは還元デキストリンと高級脂肪酸とのエステルであり、化粧料に一般的に使用されているものであれば特に制限されず使用することができる。デキストリンまたは還元デキストリンは平均糖重合度が3~100のものを用いるのが好ましい。また、デキストリン脂肪酸エステルを構成する脂肪酸としては、炭素数8~22の飽和脂肪酸を用いるのが好ましい。具体的には、パルミチン酸デキストリン、オレイン酸デキストリン、ステアリン酸デキストリン、ミリスチン酸デキストリン、(パルミチン酸/2-エチルヘキサン酸)デキストリン等を挙げることができる。 The sugar fatty acid ester includes dextrin fatty acid ester and sucrose fatty acid ester.
The dextrin fatty acid ester is an ester of dextrin or reduced dextrin with a higher fatty acid, and can be used without any particular limitation as long as it is one that is generally used in cosmetics. It is preferable to use dextrin or reduced dextrin with an average degree of glycopolymerization of 3 to 100. In addition, it is preferable to use a saturated fatty acid having 8 to 22 carbon atoms as the fatty acid constituting the dextrin fatty acid ester. Specific examples include dextrin palmitate, dextrin oleate, dextrin stearate, dextrin myristate, and dextrin (palmitate/2-ethylhexanoate).
ショ糖脂肪酸エステルは、その脂肪酸が直鎖状あるいは分岐鎖状の、飽和あるいは不飽和の、炭素数12~22のものを好ましく用いることができる。具体的には、ショ糖カプリル酸エステル、ショ糖カプリン酸エステル、ショ糖ラウリン酸エステル、ショ糖ミリスチン酸エステル、ショ糖パルミチン酸エステル、ショ糖ステアリン酸エステル、ショ糖オレイン酸エステル、ショ糖エルカ酸エステル等を挙げることができる。
Sucrose fatty acid esters in which the fatty acid is linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and has 12 to 22 carbon atoms can be preferably used. Specific examples include sucrose caprylate, sucrose caprate, sucrose laurate, sucrose myristic acid, sucrose palmitate, sucrose stearate, sucrose oleate, and sucrose erucate.
ロウ類は、化粧料に通常配合されているワックスから選択することができる。具体例としては、キャンデリラロウ、カルナウバロウ、ミツロウ、モクロウ等の天然ワックス;ポリエチレンワックス、パラフィンワックス、セレシンワックス、マイクロクリスタリンワックス等の鉱物ワックス等が挙げられるが、これらに限定されるものではない。
Waxes can be selected from those that are commonly used in cosmetics. Specific examples include natural waxes such as candelilla wax, carnauba wax, beeswax, and Japan wax; and mineral waxes such as polyethylene wax, paraffin wax, ceresin wax, and microcrystalline wax, but are not limited to these.
オイルゲル化剤として使用される脂肪酸は、常温(25℃)で固体の脂肪酸であり、例えば、ミリスチン酸、パルミチン酸、ステアリン酸、ベヘニン酸、12-ヒドロキシステアリン酸等を挙げることができる。また、これらの脂肪酸を塩(例えば、カルシウム塩、マグネシウム塩、アルミニウム塩等)の形態で配合してもよい。
The fatty acids used as oil gelling agents are solid fatty acids at room temperature (25°C), such as myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, and 12-hydroxystearic acid. These fatty acids may also be blended in the form of a salt (e.g., calcium salt, magnesium salt, aluminum salt, etc.).
グリセリル脂肪酸エステルは、グリセリン、炭素数18~28の二塩基酸及び炭素数8~28の脂肪酸(ただし、二塩基酸を除く)を反応させることにより得られるエステル化反応生成物であり、化粧料等に一般的に使用されているものであれば特に制限されず使用することができる。具体的には、(ベヘン酸/イソステアリン酸/エイコサン二酸)グリセリル、(ベヘン酸/エイコサン二酸)グリセリル、(ベヘン酸/エイコサン二酸)ポリグリセリル-10等を挙げることができる。
Glyceryl fatty acid esters are esterification reaction products obtained by reacting glycerin, a dibasic acid having 18 to 28 carbon atoms, and a fatty acid having 8 to 28 carbon atoms (excluding dibasic acids), and can be used without any particular restrictions as long as they are commonly used in cosmetics, etc. Specific examples include glyceryl (behenic acid/isostearic acid/eicosane dioic acid), glyceryl (behenic acid/eicosane dioic acid), polyglyceryl-10 (behenic acid/eicosane dioic acid), etc.
有機変性粘土鉱物の代表例としては、ジメチルジステアルアンモニウムヘクトライト、ジステアルジモニウムヘクトライト、ジメチルアルキルアンモニウムヘクトライト、ベンジルジメチルステアリルアンモニウムヘクトライト、塩化ジステアリルジメチルアンモニウム処理ケイ酸アルミニウムマグネシウム等が挙げられる。市販品としては、ベントン27(ベンジルジメチルステアリルアンモニウムクロライド処理ヘクトライト:エレメンティスジャパン社製)およびベントン38(ジステアリルジメチルアンモニウムクロライド処理ヘクトライト:エレメンティスジャパン社製)が例示される。
Typical examples of organically modified clay minerals include dimethyl distearammonium hectorite, disteardimonium hectorite, dimethyl alkyl ammonium hectorite, benzyl dimethyl stearyl ammonium hectorite, and magnesium aluminum silicate treated with distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride. Commercially available products include Bentone 27 (benzyl dimethyl stearyl ammonium chloride treated hectorite: manufactured by Elementis Japan Co., Ltd.) and Bentone 38 (distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride treated hectorite: manufactured by Elementis Japan Co., Ltd.).
本発明の化粧料で使用するオイルゲル化剤((D)成分)は、アミノ酸系ゲル化剤、糖脂肪酸エステル、ロウ類、常温で固体の脂肪酸、および有機変性粘土鉱物からなる群から選択される少なくとも1種を含むのが好ましい。本発明の化粧料では、特に、アミノ酸系ゲル化剤、中でも、ポリアミド-8を用いるのが好ましい。
The oil gelling agent (component (D)) used in the cosmetic of the present invention preferably contains at least one selected from the group consisting of amino acid-based gelling agents, sugar fatty acid esters, waxes, fatty acids that are solid at room temperature, and organically modified clay minerals. In the cosmetic of the present invention, it is particularly preferable to use an amino acid-based gelling agent, and in particular polyamide-8.
本発明の化粧料におけるオイルゲル化剤((D)成分)の配合量は、化粧料全量に対して、2~10質量%であり、好ましくは2~8質量%、より好ましくは2~5質量%である。配合量が2質量%未満であると、十分な凹凸補正(毛穴補正)効果が得られない。配合量が10質量%を超えると、ベタツキを生じる場合がある。
The amount of oil gelling agent (component (D)) in the cosmetic of the present invention is 2-10% by mass, preferably 2-8% by mass, and more preferably 2-5% by mass, based on the total amount of the cosmetic. If the amount is less than 2% by mass, a sufficient unevenness correction (pore correction) effect cannot be obtained. If the amount is more than 10% by mass, stickiness may occur.
本発明の化粧料は、「油性又は油中水型乳化化粧料」である(以下、包括的に「油性化粧料」という)。「油性化粧料」とは、肌に塗布した際に最初に油分が感じられる化粧料を意味し、少量の水を含んでいてもよく、水を含まない(無水の)形態であってもよい。
本発明の(包括的な意味での)油性化粧料は、水の配合量を25質量%以下とするのが好ましく、より好ましくは20質量%以下である。 The cosmetic of the present invention is an "oil-based or water-in-oil type emulsion cosmetic" (hereinafter collectively referred to as "oil-based cosmetic"). An "oil-based cosmetic" refers to a cosmetic in which oil is initially felt when applied to the skin, and may contain a small amount of water or may be in a water-free (anhydrous) form.
In the oil-based cosmetic preparation (in a comprehensive sense) of the present invention, the blending amount of water is preferably 25% by mass or less, and more preferably 20% by mass or less.
本発明の(包括的な意味での)油性化粧料は、水の配合量を25質量%以下とするのが好ましく、より好ましくは20質量%以下である。 The cosmetic of the present invention is an "oil-based or water-in-oil type emulsion cosmetic" (hereinafter collectively referred to as "oil-based cosmetic"). An "oil-based cosmetic" refers to a cosmetic in which oil is initially felt when applied to the skin, and may contain a small amount of water or may be in a water-free (anhydrous) form.
In the oil-based cosmetic preparation (in a comprehensive sense) of the present invention, the blending amount of water is preferably 25% by mass or less, and more preferably 20% by mass or less.
本発明の化粧料は、低粘度で凹凸補正(毛穴補正)効果に優れた化粧料である。従って、本発明の化粧料の粘度は、10000mPa・s以下とするのが好ましい。このような低粘度に調整することにより、使用感触がなめらかで、自然な仕上がりを実感することができる。
The cosmetic composition of the present invention is a cosmetic composition that has low viscosity and excellent unevenness correction (pore correction) effects. Therefore, it is preferable that the viscosity of the cosmetic composition of the present invention is 10,000 mPa·s or less. By adjusting the viscosity to such a low level, it is possible to achieve a smooth feel when used and a natural finish.
本発明の化粧料には、上記の成分(A)~(D)の他に、化粧料等に通常配合され得る他の任意成分を、本発明の効果を阻害しない範囲で配合できる。他の任意成分には、極性油以外の油分、界面活性剤、保湿剤、皮膜形成剤、キレート剤、低級アルコール(エタノール、イソプロパノール等)、pH調整剤(乳酸/乳酸ナトリウム、クエン酸/クエン酸ナトリウム等の緩衝剤等)、防腐剤、酸化防止剤、香料、及び各種薬剤等が含まれるが、これらに限定されない。
In addition to the above components (A) to (D), the cosmetic of the present invention may contain other optional components that may be typically incorporated into cosmetics, etc., to the extent that the effects of the present invention are not impaired. Other optional components include, but are not limited to, oils other than polar oils, surfactants, moisturizers, film-forming agents, chelating agents, lower alcohols (ethanol, isopropanol, etc.), pH adjusters (buffers such as lactic acid/sodium lactate, citric acid/sodium citrate, etc.), preservatives, antioxidants, fragrances, and various pharmaceutical agents.
極性油以外の油分は、化粧料等に通常使用可能な、常温(25℃)で液状、半固形(半固体)または固形(固体)の油分から選択できる。具体的には、炭化水素油、高級脂肪酸、高級アルコール、油脂、シリコーン油等が含まれる。
Oils other than polar oils can be selected from oils that are liquid, semi-solid, or solid at room temperature (25°C) and can be normally used in cosmetics, etc. Specific examples include hydrocarbon oils, higher fatty acids, higher alcohols, oils and fats, silicone oils, etc.
炭化水素油としては、流動パラフィン、スクワラン等が挙げられる。
高級脂肪酸としては、ラウリン酸、ミリスチン酸、パルミチン酸、ステアリン酸、ベヘン酸、オレイン酸、ウンデシレン酸、トール酸、イソステアリン酸、リノール酸、リノレイン酸、エイコサペンタエン酸(EPA)、ドコサヘキサエン酸(DHA)等が挙げられる。 Examples of the hydrocarbon oil include liquid paraffin and squalane.
Examples of higher fatty acids include lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, undecylenic acid, tallic acid, isostearic acid, linoleic acid, linoleic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA), and docosahexaenoic acid (DHA).
高級脂肪酸としては、ラウリン酸、ミリスチン酸、パルミチン酸、ステアリン酸、ベヘン酸、オレイン酸、ウンデシレン酸、トール酸、イソステアリン酸、リノール酸、リノレイン酸、エイコサペンタエン酸(EPA)、ドコサヘキサエン酸(DHA)等が挙げられる。 Examples of the hydrocarbon oil include liquid paraffin and squalane.
Examples of higher fatty acids include lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, undecylenic acid, tallic acid, isostearic acid, linoleic acid, linoleic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA), and docosahexaenoic acid (DHA).
高級アルコールには、ラウリルアルコール、セチルアルコール、ステアリルアルコール、ベヘニルアルコール、ミリスチルアルコール、オレイルアルコール、セトステアリルアルコール等の直鎖アルコール;モノステアリルグリセリンエーテル(バチルアルコール)、2-デシルテトラデシノール、ラノリンアルコール、コレステロール、フィトステロール、ヘキシルドデカノール、イソステアリルアルコール、オクチルドデカノール等の分岐鎖アルコールが含まれる。
Higher alcohols include straight-chain alcohols such as lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, and cetostearyl alcohol; and branched-chain alcohols such as monostearyl glycerin ether (batyl alcohol), 2-decyltetradecyl alcohol, lanolin alcohol, cholesterol, phytosterol, hexyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, and octyldodecanol.
シリコーン油としては、ジメチルポリシロキサン(ジメチコン)、フェニル変性シリコーン(ジフェニルシロキシフェニルトリメチコン等)、アルキル変性シリコーン(カプリリルメチコン等)等の鎖状シリコーン油あるいは環状シリコーン油が挙げられる。
Examples of silicone oils include chain silicone oils and cyclic silicone oils such as dimethylpolysiloxane (dimethicone), phenyl-modified silicone (diphenylsiloxyphenyltrimethicone, etc.), and alkyl-modified silicone (caprylyl methicone, etc.).
界面活性剤としては、特に限定されないが、シリコーン系の界面活性剤、中でも、HLB値が6以下のシリコーン系界面活性剤、例えば、PEG-10ジメチコン、PEG-9ジメチルシロキシエチルジメチコン等が例示できる。
なお、本発明は、PEG-12メチルエーテルラウロキシPEG-5アミドプロピルジメチコン等のポリオキシアルキレン基とアミドアルキル基とを枝ポリマーに有するシロキサン化合物を含まない態様を包含する。 The surfactant is not particularly limited, but examples thereof include silicone surfactants, particularly silicone surfactants having an HLB value of 6 or less, such as PEG-10 dimethicone and PEG-9 dimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone.
The present invention also encompasses embodiments that do not include siloxane compounds having polyoxyalkylene groups and amidoalkyl groups in the branch polymer, such as PEG-12 methyl ether lauroxy PEG-5 amidopropyl dimethicone.
なお、本発明は、PEG-12メチルエーテルラウロキシPEG-5アミドプロピルジメチコン等のポリオキシアルキレン基とアミドアルキル基とを枝ポリマーに有するシロキサン化合物を含まない態様を包含する。 The surfactant is not particularly limited, but examples thereof include silicone surfactants, particularly silicone surfactants having an HLB value of 6 or less, such as PEG-10 dimethicone and PEG-9 dimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone.
The present invention also encompasses embodiments that do not include siloxane compounds having polyoxyalkylene groups and amidoalkyl groups in the branch polymer, such as PEG-12 methyl ether lauroxy PEG-5 amidopropyl dimethicone.
保湿剤の具体例には、2価アルコール(エチレングリコール、プロピレングリコール、1,3-ブチレングリコール、プロパンジオール等);3価アルコール(グリセリン等);4価アルコール(1,2,6-ヘキサントリオール等のペンタエリスリトール等);5価アルコール(キシリトール等);多価アルコール重合体(ジグリセリン、ジプロピレングリコール、トリエチレングリコール、ポリエチレングリコール等);糖アルコール(ソルビトール、マンニトール等) 、ヒアルロン酸等が含まれる。
Specific examples of moisturizers include dihydric alcohols (ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, propanediol, etc.); trihydric alcohols (glycerin, etc.); tetrahydric alcohols (pentaerythritol such as 1,2,6-hexanetriol, etc.); pentahydric alcohols (xylitol, etc.); polyhydric alcohol polymers (diglycerin, dipropylene glycol, triethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, etc.); sugar alcohols (sorbitol, mannitol, etc.), hyaluronic acid, etc.
本発明の化粧料は、油性又は油中水型乳化化粧料に汎用されている方法を用いて製造することができる。例えば、油性(無水)化粧料の場合は、油性成分を必要に応じて任意に加熱しながら攪拌混合し、当該混合物に粉末を分散させることにより製造できる。油中水型乳化化粧料の場合は、油相を構成する成分(粉末を含む)を必要に応じて任意に加熱しながら撹拌混合し、水相を構成する成分を必要に応じて任意に加熱しながら別途撹拌混合し、前記油相に前記水相を撹拌しながら混合乳化させて製造できる。
The cosmetic of the present invention can be produced using a method commonly used for oil-based or water-in-oil emulsion cosmetics. For example, in the case of an oil-based (anhydrous) cosmetic, it can be produced by stirring and mixing the oily components while optionally heating them as necessary, and dispersing a powder in the mixture. In the case of a water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic, it can be produced by stirring and mixing the components (including powder) that make up the oil phase while optionally heating them as necessary, separately stirring and mixing the components that make up the water phase while optionally heating them as necessary, and mixing and emulsifying the water phase into the oil phase while stirring.
本発明の化粧料は、低粘度でなめらかな使用感を持ち、凹凸補正(毛穴補正)効果に優れた油性化粧料である。よって、化粧下地あるいはファンデーション等のメーキャップ化粧料として提供するのに適している。特に、着色顔料の配合量を5質量%以下に調整した化粧下地は、まるで化粧を施していないような自然な仕上がりとすることができる。
The cosmetic of the present invention is an oil-based cosmetic that has low viscosity, a smooth feel when used, and excellent unevenness correction (pore correction) effects. Therefore, it is suitable for use as a makeup cosmetic such as a makeup base or foundation. In particular, a makeup base in which the blending amount of color pigment is adjusted to 5% by mass or less can achieve a natural finish that looks as if no makeup is being applied.
以下、実施例を挙げて本発明をさらに詳しく説明するが、本発明はこれらの実施例により限定されるものではない。配合量については特記しない限り質量%を示す。
The present invention will be described in more detail below with reference to examples, but the present invention is not limited to these examples. The blend amounts are expressed in mass % unless otherwise specified.
下記の表1~表4に掲げた処方で、油中水型乳化化粧料を常法に従って調製した。各例の化粧料の特性を、以下の方法で測定、評価した。
Water-in-oil emulsion cosmetics were prepared in the usual manner using the formulations shown in Tables 1 to 4 below. The properties of each example of the cosmetics were measured and evaluated using the following methods.
「毛穴補正効果」、「なめらかな使用性」、及び「自然な仕上がり」
各例の化粧料を専門パネラー10名に使用してもらい、以下の基準で評価した。
<評価基準>
A:9人以上が優れていると評価した
B:6~8人が優れていると評価した
C:5人以下が優れていると評価した "Pore correction effect,""smoothapplication," and "natural finish"
Each cosmetic example was used by 10 expert panelists, who evaluated it according to the following criteria.
<Evaluation criteria>
A: 9 or more people rated it as excellent. B: 6 to 8 people rated it as excellent. C: 5 or less people rated it as excellent.
各例の化粧料を専門パネラー10名に使用してもらい、以下の基準で評価した。
<評価基準>
A:9人以上が優れていると評価した
B:6~8人が優れていると評価した
C:5人以下が優れていると評価した "Pore correction effect,""smoothapplication," and "natural finish"
Each cosmetic example was used by 10 expert panelists, who evaluated it according to the following criteria.
<Evaluation criteria>
A: 9 or more people rated it as excellent. B: 6 to 8 people rated it as excellent. C: 5 or less people rated it as excellent.
表1に示すように、本発明の必須成分(A)~(D)を所定量配合した化粧料は、粉末の種類を変えても、毛穴補正効果、使用性、及び自然な仕上がりの全ての項目において、大多数のパネラーが優れていると評価した。但し、極性油の配合量を10質量%未満とした実施例5は、塗布時の伸びが若干重くなった。
As shown in Table 1, the majority of panelists rated the cosmetic composition containing the required components (A) to (D) of the present invention in the prescribed amounts as excellent in all aspects, including pore correction effect, ease of use, and natural finish, even when the type of powder was changed. However, Example 5, which contained less than 10% polar oil by mass, spread slightly more heavily when applied.
表2に示した結果から、オイルゲル化剤の種類を変えても各項目で満足できる評価が得られたが、オイルゲル化剤の配合量が2質量%に満たないと十分な毛穴補正効果が得られないことが示された。
The results shown in Table 2 show that although satisfactory ratings were obtained in each category even when the type of oil gelling agent was changed, a sufficient pore correction effect was not obtained if the amount of oil gelling agent was less than 2% by mass.
表3の結果は、優れた毛穴補正効果を得るためには粉末((A)成分)の配合が必須であることを示している(比較例3)。
また、実施例5(表1)におけるポリアミド-8を同量のシリコーンゲル(架橋型シリコーン粉末を含む)に置換した比較例4、及び、当該シリコーンゲルの配合量を架橋型シリコーン粉末実分の量が実施例5のポリアミド-8と略同量になるように調整した比較例5では、ともに十分な毛穴補正効果が得られなかった。 The results in Table 3 show that the incorporation of powder (component (A)) is essential to obtain an excellent pore correction effect (Comparative Example 3).
Furthermore, in Comparative Example 4, in which the polyamide-8 in Example 5 (Table 1) was replaced with the same amount of silicone gel (containing cross-linked silicone powder), and in Comparative Example 5, in which the amount of silicone gel was adjusted so that the actual amount of cross-linked silicone powder was approximately the same as the polyamide-8 in Example 5, neither of them achieved a sufficient pore correction effect.
また、実施例5(表1)におけるポリアミド-8を同量のシリコーンゲル(架橋型シリコーン粉末を含む)に置換した比較例4、及び、当該シリコーンゲルの配合量を架橋型シリコーン粉末実分の量が実施例5のポリアミド-8と略同量になるように調整した比較例5では、ともに十分な毛穴補正効果が得られなかった。 The results in Table 3 show that the incorporation of powder (component (A)) is essential to obtain an excellent pore correction effect (Comparative Example 3).
Furthermore, in Comparative Example 4, in which the polyamide-8 in Example 5 (Table 1) was replaced with the same amount of silicone gel (containing cross-linked silicone powder), and in Comparative Example 5, in which the amount of silicone gel was adjusted so that the actual amount of cross-linked silicone powder was approximately the same as the polyamide-8 in Example 5, neither of them achieved a sufficient pore correction effect.
表4の結果は、優れた毛穴補正効果には着色顔料の配合が必須であることを示している(比較例6)。一方、着色顔料の配合量が5質量%を超えると、凹凸補正効果の向上という本発明の課題は解決されるが、自然な仕上がりにならない場合があった(実施例12及び13)。
The results in Table 4 show that the inclusion of a color pigment is essential for a good pore correction effect (Comparative Example 6). On the other hand, when the amount of color pigment exceeds 5 mass %, the problem of the present invention of improving the unevenness correction effect is solved, but a natural finish may not be achieved (Examples 12 and 13).
Claims (8)
- (A)粉末(但し、着色顔料を除く);
(B)0.2~15質量%の着色顔料;
(C)極性油;および、
(D)2~10質量%のオイルゲル化剤、
を含む、油性又は油中水型乳化化粧料。 (A) Powders (excluding color pigments);
(B) 0.2 to 15% by weight of a color pigment;
(C) a polar oil; and
(D) 2 to 10 mass % of an oil gelling agent,
An oil-based or water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic comprising: - (B)着色顔料の配合量が5質量%以下である、請求項1に記載の化粧料。 The cosmetic preparation according to claim 1, in which the blending amount of (B) color pigment is 5% by mass or less.
- (C)極性油が紫外線吸収剤を含む、請求項1又は2に記載の化粧料。 The cosmetic preparation according to claim 1 or 2, wherein (C) the polar oil contains an ultraviolet absorber.
- (D)オイルゲル化剤が、アミノ酸系ゲル化剤、糖脂肪酸エステル、ロウ類、常温で固体の脂肪酸又はその塩、グリセリル脂肪酸エステル、および有機変性粘土鉱物からなる群から選択される少なくとも一種を含む、請求項1又は2に記載の化粧料。 The cosmetic preparation according to claim 1 or 2, wherein (D) the oil gelling agent comprises at least one selected from the group consisting of amino acid gelling agents, sugar fatty acid esters, waxes, fatty acids or salts thereof that are solid at room temperature, glyceryl fatty acid esters, and organically modified clay minerals.
- (D)オイルゲル化剤が、アミノ酸系ゲル化剤を含む、請求項4に記載の化粧料。 The cosmetic preparation according to claim 4, wherein (D) the oil gelling agent includes an amino acid-based gelling agent.
- アミノ酸系ゲル化剤が、ポリアミド-8である、請求項5に記載の化粧料。 The cosmetic according to claim 5, wherein the amino acid-based gelling agent is polyamide-8.
- 水の配合量が25質量%以下である、請求項1又は2に記載の化粧料。 The cosmetic preparation according to claim 1 or 2, in which the amount of water is 25% by mass or less.
- 粘度が10000mPa・s以下である、請求項1又は2に記載の化粧料。 The cosmetic preparation according to claim 1 or 2, having a viscosity of 10,000 mPa·s or less.
Applications Claiming Priority (2)
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Citations (6)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
WO2017187977A1 (en) * | 2016-04-28 | 2017-11-02 | 株式会社 資生堂 | Water-in-oil type emulsified cosmetic |
JP2018087144A (en) * | 2016-11-01 | 2018-06-07 | ロレアル | Solid cosmetic composition comprising a fatty acid-based gelling agent and polyamide |
JP2018108952A (en) * | 2016-12-28 | 2018-07-12 | 株式会社 資生堂 | Water-in-oil type emulsion cosmetic |
WO2018225765A1 (en) * | 2017-06-08 | 2018-12-13 | 株式会社 資生堂 | Water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic preparation |
WO2020017650A1 (en) * | 2018-07-19 | 2020-01-23 | 株式会社 資生堂 | Oil-based cosmetic preparation |
JP2022515538A (en) * | 2018-12-31 | 2022-02-18 | エルヴェエムアッシュ ルシェルシュ | A solid cosmetic composition containing an aqueous spheroid dispersed in a solid continuous aqueous phase. |
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- 2023-10-27 WO PCT/JP2023/038811 patent/WO2024101178A1/en unknown
Patent Citations (6)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
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WO2017187977A1 (en) * | 2016-04-28 | 2017-11-02 | 株式会社 資生堂 | Water-in-oil type emulsified cosmetic |
JP2018087144A (en) * | 2016-11-01 | 2018-06-07 | ロレアル | Solid cosmetic composition comprising a fatty acid-based gelling agent and polyamide |
JP2018108952A (en) * | 2016-12-28 | 2018-07-12 | 株式会社 資生堂 | Water-in-oil type emulsion cosmetic |
WO2018225765A1 (en) * | 2017-06-08 | 2018-12-13 | 株式会社 資生堂 | Water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic preparation |
WO2020017650A1 (en) * | 2018-07-19 | 2020-01-23 | 株式会社 資生堂 | Oil-based cosmetic preparation |
JP2022515538A (en) * | 2018-12-31 | 2022-02-18 | エルヴェエムアッシュ ルシェルシュ | A solid cosmetic composition containing an aqueous spheroid dispersed in a solid continuous aqueous phase. |
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