WO2024101178A1 - 凹凸補正化粧料 - Google Patents
凹凸補正化粧料 Download PDFInfo
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- WO2024101178A1 WO2024101178A1 PCT/JP2023/038811 JP2023038811W WO2024101178A1 WO 2024101178 A1 WO2024101178 A1 WO 2024101178A1 JP 2023038811 W JP2023038811 W JP 2023038811W WO 2024101178 A1 WO2024101178 A1 WO 2024101178A1
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
- A61K8/06—Emulsions
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
- A61K8/25—Silicon; Compounds thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/88—Polyamides
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
Definitions
- the present invention relates to an unevenness-correcting cosmetic. More specifically, it relates to a low-viscosity cosmetic that contains a polar oil such as an ultraviolet absorbent, and is an oil-based or water-in-oil emulsion-type cosmetic that can provide an excellent unevenness-correcting effect (pore correction effect) that can be sustained.
- a polar oil such as an ultraviolet absorbent
- base makeup makeup base and foundation
- base makeup makesup base and foundation
- Conventional unevenness-correcting cosmetics use oil-based powder dispersed in it that penetrates into pores and other recesses to correct unevenness in the skin, while the powder's light reflection, diffusion, or interference effects blur the unevenness, making it less visible.
- Patent Document 1 discloses a cosmetic that achieves both pore and texture correction and a glossy finish by blending a hydrophilic spherical powder in the internal phase (aqueous phase) of a water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic and a hydrophobic plate-shaped powder in the external phase (oil phase).
- Patent Document 2 discloses a skin preparation that is effective in concealing aging pores with enlarged openings on the skin surface, by combining and blending hemispherical or semi-ellipsoidal powder with a powder whose main component is a (meth)acrylic acid ester polymer and whose particles are plate-shaped.
- Patent Document 3 discloses a cosmetic composition for correcting unevenness that contains a prescribed amount of (a) fumed hydrophobic silica, (b) octamethyltrisiloxane and/or decamethyltetrasiloxane, (c) batyl alcohol, and (d) a powder other than (a), and is said to be free of so-called plastic microbeads and to have excellent usability and stability over time.
- the objective of the present invention is to provide an unevenness (pore) correcting cosmetic product that has low viscosity but is excellent in correcting skin unevenness, particularly pores, and can maintain this excellent correction effect for a long period of time.
- the present invention provides: (A) Powders (excluding color pigments); (B) 0.2 to 15% by weight of a color pigment; (C) a polar oil; and (D) Provided is an oil-based or water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic comprising 2 to 10% by mass of an oil gelling agent.
- the oil-based or water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic of the present invention is excellent in correcting unevenness of the skin, particularly in making pores less noticeable, and this effect lasts for a long time. Therefore, there is no need to frequently touch up your makeup. Also, by adjusting the amount of color pigment blended, it is possible to achieve an extremely natural finish that looks like bare skin without makeup. Furthermore, by blending an ester oil and an ultraviolet absorbing agent as a polar oil, it is possible to create a base makeup that is easy to use and has excellent ultraviolet protection effects.
- the oil-based or water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic of the present invention contains the following essential components: (A) powder (excluding color pigments); (B) color pigment; (C) polar oil; and (D) oil gelling agent.
- the "powder” (also referred to as “component (A)”) in the cosmetic of the present invention may be an inorganic powder or an organic powder that has conventionally been used in cosmetics and the like.
- inorganic powders include talc, kaolin, mica (mica, sericite, white mica, gold mica, synthetic mica, red mica, black mica, etc.), vermiculite, magnesium carbonate, calcium carbonate, aluminum silicate, barium silicate, calcium silicate, magnesium silicate, strontium silicate, metal tungstate, magnesium, silica (anhydrous silicic acid), zeolite, barium sulfate, calcined calcium sulfate (calcined gypsum), calcium phosphate, fluorapatite, hydroxyapatite, ceramic powder, metal soap (e.g., zinc myristate, calcium palmitate, aluminum stearate, etc.), boron nitride, and fine particle titanium oxide and fine particle zinc oxide.
- organic powders examples include polyamide resin powder (nylon powder), polyethylene powder, polymethyl methacrylate powder, polystyrene powder, styrene-acrylic acid copolymer resin powder, benzoguanamine resin powder, polytetrafluoroethylene powder, and cellulose powder.
- the powder (component (A)) to be blended in the cosmetic of the present invention is preferably a powder with hydrophobic surface that can be dispersed in oil. Therefore, in the case of a powder made of a hydrophilic material, it is preferable to blend it as a powder whose surface has been hydrophobized.
- hydrophobization treatment agents include silicone compounds, fluorine-modified silicone compounds, fluorine compounds, higher fatty acids, higher alcohols, fatty acid esters, metal soaps, amino acids, and alkyl phosphates.
- the particle shape of the powder is not particularly limited, and powders of spherical, plate-like, needle-like, etc. shapes can be used.
- the average particle size of the powder is also not particularly limited, but from the viewpoint of ultraviolet protection effect, it is preferable to include fine particle titanium oxide or fine particle zinc oxide, and from the viewpoint of usability, it is preferable to include spherical powder such as spherical silica.
- the amount of powder (component (A)) in the cosmetic of the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it is an amount that exhibits an unevenness correction effect. Usually, it is preferable to blend in an amount in the range of 1 to 50 mass% relative to the total amount of the cosmetic.
- the amount of powder (component (A)) can be appropriately set within the above-mentioned preferred range.
- the lower limit of the blending amount range relative to the total amount of the cosmetic may be 5 mass% or more, 8 mass% or more, 10 mass% or more, or 12 mass% or more.
- the upper limit of the blending amount range relative to the total amount of the cosmetic may be 40 mass% or less, 35 mass% or less, 30 mass% or less, or 20 mass% or less, etc.
- the "coloring pigment” (also referred to as “component (B)”) in the cosmetic of the present invention is a pigment powder that is blended into the cosmetic as a coloring material.
- This "coloring pigment” (component (B)) includes colored pigments such as iron oxide, white pigments such as pigment-grade titanium oxide and pigment-grade zinc oxide, pearl pigments, organic pigments, etc.
- Coloring pigments include, for example, white pigments such as titanium oxide and zinc oxide, inorganic red pigments such as iron oxide (red ocher) and iron titanate, inorganic brown pigments such as gamma-iron oxide, inorganic yellow pigments such as yellow iron oxide and ocher, inorganic black pigments such as black iron oxide, carbon and low-order titanium oxide, inorganic purple pigments such as mango violet and cobalt violet, inorganic green pigments such as chromium oxide, chromium hydroxide and cobalt titanate, inorganic blue pigments such as ultramarine and Prussian blue, titanium oxide-coated mica, titanium oxide-coated bismuth oxychloride and titanium oxide-coated talc.
- white pigments such as titanium oxide and zinc oxide
- inorganic red pigments such as iron oxide (red ocher) and iron titanate
- inorganic brown pigments such as gamma-iron oxide
- inorganic yellow pigments such as yellow iron oxide and ocher
- pearl pigments such as colored titanium oxide-coated mica, bismuth oxychloride, and fish scale foil
- metal powder pigments such as aluminum powder and copper powder
- organic pigments such as Red No. 202, Red No. 205, Red No. 220, Red No. 228, Red No. 405, Orange No. 203, Orange No. 204, Yellow No. 205, Yellow No. 401, and Blue No. 404
- organic pigments such as zirconium, barium, and aluminum lake, including Red No. 3, Red No. 104, Red No. 227, Red No. 401, Orange No. 205, Yellow No. 4, Yellow No. 202, Green No. 3, and Blue No. 1.
- the blending amount of the color pigment (component (B)) in the cosmetic of the present invention is within the range of 0.2 to 15% by mass based on the total amount of the cosmetic. If the blending amount is less than 0.2% by mass, a sufficient unevenness correction effect cannot be obtained. If the blending amount exceeds 15% by mass, although the unevenness correction effect can be obtained, it is not preferable because it gives a thick coating feeling. In order to achieve a natural finish like bare skin without makeup when the cosmetic of the present invention is applied, it is effective to reduce the amount of color pigment to be blended. For example, an extremely natural finish can be achieved by making the amount of color pigment 5% by mass or less, preferably 3% by mass or less, more preferably 2% by mass or less, based on the total amount of the cosmetic.
- polar oil (also referred to as “component (C)) in the present invention refers to an oil with high polarity among oils (excluding silicone oils) that are liquid at room temperature (25°C) and can be blended into a cosmetic, and preferably has an IOB value of 0.10 or more, 0.11 or more, 0.12 or more, or 0.13 or more.
- the upper limit of the IOB value of the polar oil (component (C)) is not particularly limited, but may be, for example, 0.50 or less, 0.45 or less, or 0.40 or less.
- inorganic value is set according to various atoms or functional groups, for example, the “organic value” is 20 for one carbon atom in a molecule, and the “inorganic value” is 100 for one hydroxyl group, and the "inorganic value” and “organic value” of each atom and functional group in an organic compound are integrated to calculate the IOB value of the organic compound (for example, see “Organic Conceptual Diagram - Basics and Applications” by Yoshio Koda, pp. 11-17, Sankyo Publishing, 1984).
- Representative examples of the "polar oil” (component (C)) in the present invention are ester oil and ultraviolet absorbers.
- ester oils include tripropylene glycol dineopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, myristyl myristate, decyl oleate, hexyldecyl dimethyloctanoate, cetyl lactate, myristyl lactate, lanolin acetate, isocetyl stearate, isocetyl isostearate, cholesteryl 12-hydroxystearate, cetyl ethylhexanoate, ethylene glycol di-2-ethylhexanoate, dipentaerythritol fatty acid ester, N-alkyl glycol monoisostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprate
- Ultraviolet absorbers that are liquid at room temperature (25°C) include, but are not limited to, benzoic acid derivatives, salicylic acid derivatives, cinnamic acid derivatives, dibenzoylmethane derivatives, ⁇ , ⁇ -diphenylacrylate derivatives, benzophenone derivatives, benzylidene camphor derivatives, phenylbenzimidazole derivatives, triazine derivatives, phenylbenzotriazole derivatives, anthranil derivatives, imidazoline derivatives, benzalmalonate derivatives, 4,4-diarylbutadiene derivatives, etc.
- benzoic acid derivatives include ethyl p-aminobenzoate (PABA), ethyl-dihydroxypropyl PABA, ethylhexyl-dimethyl PABA, glyceryl PABA, PEG-25-PABA, and diethylaminohydroxybenzoylhexyl benzoate.
- PABA ethyl p-aminobenzoate
- ethyl-dihydroxypropyl PABA ethylhexyl-dimethyl PABA
- glyceryl PABA glyceryl PABA
- PEG-25-PABA diethylaminohydroxybenzoylhexyl benzoate
- salicylic acid derivatives include homosalate, ethylhexyl salicylate (octyl salicylate), dipropylene glycol salicylate, and TEA salicylate.
- cinnamic acid derivatives include ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, isopropyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl methoxycinnamate, cinoxate, DEA methoxycinnamate, diisopropyl methylcinnamate, glyceryl-ethylhexanoate-dimethoxycinnamate, and di-(2-ethylhexyl)-4'-methoxybenzalmalonate.
- dibenzoylmethane derivative is butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane).
- ⁇ , ⁇ -diphenylacrylate derivative is octocrylene.
- benzophenone derivatives include benzophenone (oxybenzone)-1, benzophenone-2, benzophenone-3, benzophenone-4, benzophenone-5, benzophenone-6, benzophenone-8, benzophenone-9, and benzophenone-12.
- triazine derivatives include anisotriazine (bisethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine), ethylhexyl triazone, diethylhexylbutamido triazone, and 2,4,6-tris(diisobutyl-4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine.
- phenylbenzotriazole derivatives include drometrizole trisiloxane and methylene bis(benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol).
- anthranil derivative include menthyl anthranilate.
- the imidazoline derivative include ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidene dioxoimidazolidine propionate.
- benzalmalonate derivatives include polyorganosiloxanes having a benzalmalonate functional group.
- a specific example of the 4,4-diarylbutadiene derivative is 1,1-dicarboxy(2,2'-dimethylpropyl)-4,4-diphenylbutadiene.
- the cosmetic of the present invention when an ester oil is blended as a polar oil, the usability (smoothness) of the cosmetic is improved. Furthermore, when an ultraviolet absorber is blended, the cosmetic can be made to have ultraviolet protection properties.
- the ester oil and the ultraviolet absorber may each be used alone or in a mixture of two or more types. From the viewpoint of obtaining an excellent ultraviolet protection effect (high SPF), it is preferable to include an ultraviolet absorber.
- the amount of polar oil (component (C)) in the cosmetic of the present invention is not particularly limited, but in order to obtain smooth usability, it is preferably blended in at least 5% by mass, more preferably at least 8% by mass, and even more preferably at least 10% by mass, based on the total amount of the cosmetic.
- amount of polar oil blended can be, for example, 98% by mass or less, or 97% by mass or less, based on the total amount of the cosmetic.
- oil gelling agent (also referred to as “component (D)" is a component that has the function of thickening (gelling) an oil by dissolving in the oil or swelling with the oil.
- the "oil gelling agent” (component (D)) in the cosmetic of the present invention has the above-mentioned thickening (gelling) function, particularly with respect to polar oil (component (C)), and can be appropriately selected from substances that can be used in cosmetics and the like.
- crosslinked silicone powder which swells with silicone oil and has the effect of increasing the apparent viscosity of the silicone oil, is considered to have no or only a weak thickening (gelling) function with respect to polar oil, and is therefore not included in the oil gelling agent (component (D)) in the present invention.
- oil gelling agents preferably used in the present invention include amino acid gelling agents, sugar fatty acid esters, waxes, fatty acids or salts thereof that are solid at room temperature (25°C), glyceryl fatty acid esters, and organically modified clay minerals. These oil gelling agents may be used alone or in combination of two or more.
- amino acid gelling agents examples include dibutyl lauroyl glutamide, dibutyl ethylhexanoyl glutamide, polyamide-8, polyamide-3, etc.
- the sugar fatty acid ester includes dextrin fatty acid ester and sucrose fatty acid ester.
- the dextrin fatty acid ester is an ester of dextrin or reduced dextrin with a higher fatty acid, and can be used without any particular limitation as long as it is one that is generally used in cosmetics. It is preferable to use dextrin or reduced dextrin with an average degree of glycopolymerization of 3 to 100. In addition, it is preferable to use a saturated fatty acid having 8 to 22 carbon atoms as the fatty acid constituting the dextrin fatty acid ester. Specific examples include dextrin palmitate, dextrin oleate, dextrin stearate, dextrin myristate, and dextrin (palmitate/2-ethylhexanoate).
- Sucrose fatty acid esters in which the fatty acid is linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and has 12 to 22 carbon atoms can be preferably used. Specific examples include sucrose caprylate, sucrose caprate, sucrose laurate, sucrose myristic acid, sucrose palmitate, sucrose stearate, sucrose oleate, and sucrose erucate.
- Waxes can be selected from those that are commonly used in cosmetics. Specific examples include natural waxes such as candelilla wax, carnauba wax, beeswax, and Japan wax; and mineral waxes such as polyethylene wax, paraffin wax, ceresin wax, and microcrystalline wax, but are not limited to these.
- the fatty acids used as oil gelling agents are solid fatty acids at room temperature (25°C), such as myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, and 12-hydroxystearic acid. These fatty acids may also be blended in the form of a salt (e.g., calcium salt, magnesium salt, aluminum salt, etc.).
- a salt e.g., calcium salt, magnesium salt, aluminum salt, etc.
- Glyceryl fatty acid esters are esterification reaction products obtained by reacting glycerin, a dibasic acid having 18 to 28 carbon atoms, and a fatty acid having 8 to 28 carbon atoms (excluding dibasic acids), and can be used without any particular restrictions as long as they are commonly used in cosmetics, etc. Specific examples include glyceryl (behenic acid/isostearic acid/eicosane dioic acid), glyceryl (behenic acid/eicosane dioic acid), polyglyceryl-10 (behenic acid/eicosane dioic acid), etc.
- organically modified clay minerals include dimethyl distearammonium hectorite, disteardimonium hectorite, dimethyl alkyl ammonium hectorite, benzyl dimethyl stearyl ammonium hectorite, and magnesium aluminum silicate treated with distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride.
- Commercially available products include Bentone 27 (benzyl dimethyl stearyl ammonium chloride treated hectorite: manufactured by Elementis Japan Co., Ltd.) and Bentone 38 (distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride treated hectorite: manufactured by Elementis Japan Co., Ltd.).
- the oil gelling agent (component (D)) used in the cosmetic of the present invention preferably contains at least one selected from the group consisting of amino acid-based gelling agents, sugar fatty acid esters, waxes, fatty acids that are solid at room temperature, and organically modified clay minerals.
- an amino acid-based gelling agent and in particular polyamide-8.
- the amount of oil gelling agent (component (D)) in the cosmetic of the present invention is 2-10% by mass, preferably 2-8% by mass, and more preferably 2-5% by mass, based on the total amount of the cosmetic. If the amount is less than 2% by mass, a sufficient unevenness correction (pore correction) effect cannot be obtained. If the amount is more than 10% by mass, stickiness may occur.
- the cosmetic of the present invention is an "oil-based or water-in-oil type emulsion cosmetic” (hereinafter collectively referred to as “oil-based cosmetic”).
- An “oil-based cosmetic” refers to a cosmetic in which oil is initially felt when applied to the skin, and may contain a small amount of water or may be in a water-free (anhydrous) form.
- the blending amount of water is preferably 25% by mass or less, and more preferably 20% by mass or less.
- the cosmetic composition of the present invention is a cosmetic composition that has low viscosity and excellent unevenness correction (pore correction) effects. Therefore, it is preferable that the viscosity of the cosmetic composition of the present invention is 10,000 mPa ⁇ s or less. By adjusting the viscosity to such a low level, it is possible to achieve a smooth feel when used and a natural finish.
- the cosmetic of the present invention may contain other optional components that may be typically incorporated into cosmetics, etc., to the extent that the effects of the present invention are not impaired.
- Other optional components include, but are not limited to, oils other than polar oils, surfactants, moisturizers, film-forming agents, chelating agents, lower alcohols (ethanol, isopropanol, etc.), pH adjusters (buffers such as lactic acid/sodium lactate, citric acid/sodium citrate, etc.), preservatives, antioxidants, fragrances, and various pharmaceutical agents.
- Oils other than polar oils can be selected from oils that are liquid, semi-solid, or solid at room temperature (25°C) and can be normally used in cosmetics, etc. Specific examples include hydrocarbon oils, higher fatty acids, higher alcohols, oils and fats, silicone oils, etc.
- hydrocarbon oil examples include liquid paraffin and squalane.
- higher fatty acids include lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, undecylenic acid, tallic acid, isostearic acid, linoleic acid, linoleic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA), and docosahexaenoic acid (DHA).
- Higher alcohols include straight-chain alcohols such as lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, and cetostearyl alcohol; and branched-chain alcohols such as monostearyl glycerin ether (batyl alcohol), 2-decyltetradecyl alcohol, lanolin alcohol, cholesterol, phytosterol, hexyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, and octyldodecanol.
- straight-chain alcohols such as lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, and cetostearyl alcohol
- branched-chain alcohols such as monostearyl glycerin ether (batyl alcohol), 2-decyltetradecyl alcohol, lanolin alcohol, cholesterol, phytosterol, hexyldodecanol, is
- silicone oils examples include chain silicone oils and cyclic silicone oils such as dimethylpolysiloxane (dimethicone), phenyl-modified silicone (diphenylsiloxyphenyltrimethicone, etc.), and alkyl-modified silicone (caprylyl methicone, etc.).
- the surfactant is not particularly limited, but examples thereof include silicone surfactants, particularly silicone surfactants having an HLB value of 6 or less, such as PEG-10 dimethicone and PEG-9 dimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone.
- silicone surfactants particularly silicone surfactants having an HLB value of 6 or less, such as PEG-10 dimethicone and PEG-9 dimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone.
- the present invention also encompasses embodiments that do not include siloxane compounds having polyoxyalkylene groups and amidoalkyl groups in the branch polymer, such as PEG-12 methyl ether lauroxy PEG-5 amidopropyl dimethicone.
- moisturizers include dihydric alcohols (ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, propanediol, etc.); trihydric alcohols (glycerin, etc.); tetrahydric alcohols (pentaerythritol such as 1,2,6-hexanetriol, etc.); pentahydric alcohols (xylitol, etc.); polyhydric alcohol polymers (diglycerin, dipropylene glycol, triethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, etc.); sugar alcohols (sorbitol, mannitol, etc.), hyaluronic acid, etc.
- dihydric alcohols ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, propanediol, etc.
- trihydric alcohols glycerin, etc.
- tetrahydric alcohols pentahydric alcohols (xylitol, etc.)
- polyhydric alcohol polymers diglycerin, diprop
- the cosmetic of the present invention can be produced using a method commonly used for oil-based or water-in-oil emulsion cosmetics.
- an oil-based (anhydrous) cosmetic it can be produced by stirring and mixing the oily components while optionally heating them as necessary, and dispersing a powder in the mixture.
- a water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic it can be produced by stirring and mixing the components (including powder) that make up the oil phase while optionally heating them as necessary, separately stirring and mixing the components that make up the water phase while optionally heating them as necessary, and mixing and emulsifying the water phase into the oil phase while stirring.
- the cosmetic of the present invention is an oil-based cosmetic that has low viscosity, a smooth feel when used, and excellent unevenness correction (pore correction) effects. Therefore, it is suitable for use as a makeup cosmetic such as a makeup base or foundation.
- a makeup base in which the blending amount of color pigment is adjusted to 5% by mass or less can achieve a natural finish that looks as if no makeup is being applied.
- Water-in-oil emulsion cosmetics were prepared in the usual manner using the formulations shown in Tables 1 to 4 below. The properties of each example of the cosmetics were measured and evaluated using the following methods.
- Example 5 which contained less than 10% polar oil by mass, spread slightly more heavily when applied.
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Abstract
Description
(A)粉末(但し、着色顔料を除く);
(B)0.2~15質量%の着色顔料;
(C)極性油;および、
(D)2~10質量%のオイルゲル化剤を含む、油性又は油中水型乳化化粧料を提供する。
本発明の化粧料における「粉末」(「(A)成分」ともいう)は、化粧料等に従来から使用されている無機粉末または有機粉末であってよい。
無機粉末としては、例えば、タルク、カオリン、マイカ(雲母、絹雲母(セリサイト)、白雲母、金雲母、合成雲母、紅雲母、黒雲母など)、パーミキュライト、炭酸マグネシウム、炭酸カルシウム、ケイ酸アルミニウム、ケイ酸バリウム、ケイ酸カルシウム、ケイ酸マグネシウム、ケイ酸ストロンチウム、タングステン酸金属塩、マグネシウム、シリカ(無水ケイ酸)、ゼオライト、硫酸バリウム、焼成硫酸カルシウム(焼セッコウ)、リン酸カルシウム、弗素アパタイト、ヒドロキシアパタイト、セラミックパウダー、金属石鹸(例えば、ミリスチン酸亜鉛、パルミチン酸カルシウム、ステアリン酸アルミニウム等)、窒化ホウ素、並びに、微粒子酸化チタン及び微粒子酸化亜鉛等が挙げられる。
本発明の化粧料における「着色顔料」(「(B)成分」ともいう)は、化粧料に色材として配合される顔料粉末である。この「着色顔料」((B)成分)には、酸化鉄等の有色顔料、顔料級酸化チタン及び顔料級酸化亜鉛等の白色顔料、パール顔料、有機顔料等が含まれる。
なお、本発明の化粧料を塗布した際に、まるで化粧を施していない素肌のような自然な仕上がりとするためには、着色顔料の配合量を抑制するのが有効である。例えば、化粧料全量に対して5質量%以下、好ましくは3質量%以下、より好ましくは2質量%以下とすることで、極めて自然な仕上がりとすることができる。
本発明における「極性油」(「(C)成分」ともいう)は、化粧料に配合可能な常温(25℃)で液状の油分(シリコーン油を除く)の中で、極性が高い油分を意味し、例えば、IOB値が0.10以上、0.11以上、0.12以上、又は0.13以上の油分が好ましい。極性油((C)成分)のIOB値の上限値は特に限定されないが、例えば、0.50以下、0.45以下、又は0.40以下であってよい。
ここで、「IOB値」とは、「Inorganic/Organic Balance」(無機性/有機性比)の略であり、無機性値の有機性値に対する比率を表す値であり、有機化合物の極性の程度を示す指標の一つとなる。IOB値は、具体的には、IOB値=無機性値/有機性値として表される。「無機性値」、「有機性値」のそれぞれについては、例えば、分子中の炭素原子1個について「有機性値」が20、水酸基1個について「無機性値」が100といったように、各種原子又は官能基に応じた「無機性値」、「有機性値」が設定されており、有機化合物中の全ての原子及び官能基の「無機性値」、「有機性値」を積算することによって、当該有機化合物のIOB値を算出することができる(例えば、甲田善生著、「有機概念図-基礎と応用-」、p.11~17、三共出版、1984年発行参照)。
本発明における「極性油」((C)成分)の代表例は、エステル油及び紫外線吸収剤である。
β,β-ジフェニルアクリレート誘導体の具体例としては、オクトクリレン等が挙げられる。
トリアジン誘導体の具体例としては、アニソトリアジン(ビスエチルヘキシルオキシフェノールメトキシフェニルトリアジン)、エチルヘキシルトリアゾン、ジエチルヘキシルブタミドトリアゾン、2,4,6-トリス(ジイソブチル-4'-アミノベンザルマロネート)-s-トリアジン等が挙げられる。
アントラニル誘導体の具体例としては、アントラニル酸メンチル等が挙げられる。
イミダゾリン誘導体の具体例としては、エチルヘキシルジメトキシベンジリデンジオキソイミダゾリジンプロピオナート等が挙げられる。
4,4-ジアリールブタジエン誘導体の具体例としては、1,1-ジカルボキシ(2,2'-ジメチルプロピル)-4,4-ジフェニルブタジエン等が挙げられる。
「オイルゲル化剤」(「(D)成分」ともいう)は、油分に溶解する又は油分で膨潤することにより、当該油分を増粘(ゲル化)する機能を有する成分である。本発明の化粧料における「オイルゲル化剤」((D)成分)は、特に極性油((C)成分)に対して前記の増粘(ゲル化)機能を有し、化粧料等に使用され得る物質から適宜選択することができる。例えば、シリコーン油によって膨潤して当該シリコーン油の見かけの粘度を高める作用がある架橋型シリコーン粉末は、極性油に対する増粘(ゲル化)機能を持たない又は弱いと考えられるため、本願発明におけるオイルゲル化剤((D)成分)に含まれない。
デキストリン脂肪酸エステルは、デキストリンまたは還元デキストリンと高級脂肪酸とのエステルであり、化粧料に一般的に使用されているものであれば特に制限されず使用することができる。デキストリンまたは還元デキストリンは平均糖重合度が3~100のものを用いるのが好ましい。また、デキストリン脂肪酸エステルを構成する脂肪酸としては、炭素数8~22の飽和脂肪酸を用いるのが好ましい。具体的には、パルミチン酸デキストリン、オレイン酸デキストリン、ステアリン酸デキストリン、ミリスチン酸デキストリン、(パルミチン酸/2-エチルヘキサン酸)デキストリン等を挙げることができる。
本発明の(包括的な意味での)油性化粧料は、水の配合量を25質量%以下とするのが好ましく、より好ましくは20質量%以下である。
高級脂肪酸としては、ラウリン酸、ミリスチン酸、パルミチン酸、ステアリン酸、ベヘン酸、オレイン酸、ウンデシレン酸、トール酸、イソステアリン酸、リノール酸、リノレイン酸、エイコサペンタエン酸(EPA)、ドコサヘキサエン酸(DHA)等が挙げられる。
なお、本発明は、PEG-12メチルエーテルラウロキシPEG-5アミドプロピルジメチコン等のポリオキシアルキレン基とアミドアルキル基とを枝ポリマーに有するシロキサン化合物を含まない態様を包含する。
各例の化粧料を専門パネラー10名に使用してもらい、以下の基準で評価した。
<評価基準>
A:9人以上が優れていると評価した
B:6~8人が優れていると評価した
C:5人以下が優れていると評価した
また、実施例5(表1)におけるポリアミド-8を同量のシリコーンゲル(架橋型シリコーン粉末を含む)に置換した比較例4、及び、当該シリコーンゲルの配合量を架橋型シリコーン粉末実分の量が実施例5のポリアミド-8と略同量になるように調整した比較例5では、ともに十分な毛穴補正効果が得られなかった。
Claims (8)
- (A)粉末(但し、着色顔料を除く);
(B)0.2~15質量%の着色顔料;
(C)極性油;および、
(D)2~10質量%のオイルゲル化剤、
を含む、油性又は油中水型乳化化粧料。 - (B)着色顔料の配合量が5質量%以下である、請求項1に記載の化粧料。
- (C)極性油が紫外線吸収剤を含む、請求項1又は2に記載の化粧料。
- (D)オイルゲル化剤が、アミノ酸系ゲル化剤、糖脂肪酸エステル、ロウ類、常温で固体の脂肪酸又はその塩、グリセリル脂肪酸エステル、および有機変性粘土鉱物からなる群から選択される少なくとも一種を含む、請求項1又は2に記載の化粧料。
- (D)オイルゲル化剤が、アミノ酸系ゲル化剤を含む、請求項4に記載の化粧料。
- アミノ酸系ゲル化剤が、ポリアミド-8である、請求項5に記載の化粧料。
- 水の配合量が25質量%以下である、請求項1又は2に記載の化粧料。
- 粘度が10000mPa・s以下である、請求項1又は2に記載の化粧料。
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| WO2017187977A1 (ja) * | 2016-04-28 | 2017-11-02 | 株式会社 資生堂 | 油中水型乳化化粧料 |
| JP2018087144A (ja) * | 2016-11-01 | 2018-06-07 | ロレアル | 脂肪酸系ゲル化剤及び共ゲル化剤を含む固体化粧用組成物 |
| JP2018108952A (ja) * | 2016-12-28 | 2018-07-12 | 株式会社 資生堂 | 油中水型乳化化粧料 |
| WO2018225765A1 (ja) * | 2017-06-08 | 2018-12-13 | 株式会社 資生堂 | 油中水型乳化化粧料 |
| WO2020017650A1 (ja) * | 2018-07-19 | 2020-01-23 | 株式会社 資生堂 | 油性化粧料 |
| JP2022515538A (ja) * | 2018-12-31 | 2022-02-18 | エルヴェエムアッシュ ルシェルシュ | 固体連続水相中に分散された水性スフェロイドを含有する固体化粧品組成物 |
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| WO2017187977A1 (ja) * | 2016-04-28 | 2017-11-02 | 株式会社 資生堂 | 油中水型乳化化粧料 |
| JP2018087144A (ja) * | 2016-11-01 | 2018-06-07 | ロレアル | 脂肪酸系ゲル化剤及び共ゲル化剤を含む固体化粧用組成物 |
| JP2018108952A (ja) * | 2016-12-28 | 2018-07-12 | 株式会社 資生堂 | 油中水型乳化化粧料 |
| WO2018225765A1 (ja) * | 2017-06-08 | 2018-12-13 | 株式会社 資生堂 | 油中水型乳化化粧料 |
| WO2020017650A1 (ja) * | 2018-07-19 | 2020-01-23 | 株式会社 資生堂 | 油性化粧料 |
| JP2022515538A (ja) * | 2018-12-31 | 2022-02-18 | エルヴェエムアッシュ ルシェルシュ | 固体連続水相中に分散された水性スフェロイドを含有する固体化粧品組成物 |
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