WO2024019233A1 - Method for weaving fabric comprising air layer - Google Patents

Method for weaving fabric comprising air layer Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2024019233A1
WO2024019233A1 PCT/KR2022/017191 KR2022017191W WO2024019233A1 WO 2024019233 A1 WO2024019233 A1 WO 2024019233A1 KR 2022017191 W KR2022017191 W KR 2022017191W WO 2024019233 A1 WO2024019233 A1 WO 2024019233A1
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Prior art keywords
yarn
air layer
coating
warp
weaving
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PCT/KR2022/017191
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French (fr)
Korean (ko)
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고재정
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고재정
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Publication of WO2024019233A1 publication Critical patent/WO2024019233A1/en

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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D11/00Double or multi-ply fabrics not otherwise provided for
    • D03D11/02Fabrics formed with pockets, tubes, loops, folds, tucks or flaps
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D13/00Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/20Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/283Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads synthetic polymer-based, e.g. polyamide or polyester fibres
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/56Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads elastic
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M15/00Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M15/19Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with synthetic macromolecular compounds
    • D06M15/37Macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D06M15/564Polyureas, polyurethanes or other polymers having ureide or urethane links; Precondensation products forming them
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M15/00Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M15/19Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with synthetic macromolecular compounds
    • D06M15/37Macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D06M15/643Macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds containing silicon in the main chain
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M15/00Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M15/693Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with natural or synthetic rubber, or derivatives thereof
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M2200/00Functionality of the treatment composition and/or properties imparted to the textile material
    • D06M2200/10Repellency against liquids
    • D06M2200/12Hydrophobic properties
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00Physical properties
    • D10B2401/02Moisture-responsive characteristics
    • D10B2401/021Moisture-responsive characteristics hydrophobic
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2501/00Wearing apparel
    • D10B2501/04Outerwear; Protective garments

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a method of weaving a fabric containing an air layer. More specifically, the present invention relates to a method of weaving a fabric containing an air layer.
  • an air layer can be formed through the extension and contraction process of high-breeding yarn, and the air layer provides excellent thermal insulation and waterproofing properties. It's about the weaving method.
  • Clothing with special functions such as yoga clothes, cycling clothes, sportswear, and wetsuits, requires functions such as thermal insulation, waterproofing, and dehydration, unlike fabrics used to manufacture general clothing.
  • a wetsuit it is worn to suppress heat dissipation of the diver's body heat and to protect the diver's body from fish, etc. when the diver works under the water or enjoys leisure sports such as skin scuba diving.
  • it has become an essential piece of equipment for many divers due to its high ability to maintain body temperature due to its characteristic that water does not seep in at all even when submerged for a long time in the sea tens of meters deep.
  • Some of the fabrics used to manufacture clothing with such special functions may have an embossed air layer, which is a method of implementing an embossed shape on natural fiber fabric according to the prior art "Korea Intellectual Property Office Registered Patent No. 10-0920306" Preparing a natural fiber fabric as described in “Method”;
  • the embossing molded as described above is characterized in that it is manufactured by moving it while maintaining tension in a chamber maintained at 120-140°C and heat-sealing it
  • the present invention was devised to solve the above problems, and provides a method of weaving a fabric including an air layer, which can form an air layer through the extension and contraction process of high shrinkage yarn, and has excellent thermal insulation and waterproofing properties due to the air layer.
  • the purpose is to
  • the above-described object includes a warp preparation step of elastically extending the length of the high-grade yarn, stacking a first yarn on top of the high-stage yarn, and preparing the high-stage yarn and the first yarn as a warp; A warp and weft weaving step of weaving warp and weft yarns using a second yarn as a weft on a warp yarn made up of the high axis yarn and the first yarn; and an air layer forming step of elastically contracting the length of the high stock yarn to form an air layer between the high stock yarn and the first yarn.
  • the air layer is preferably formed to have a thickness 2 to 4 times greater than the thickness of the high livestock building.
  • an air layer can be formed through the extension and contraction process of the high shrinkage yarn, and a fabric with excellent thermal insulation and waterproofing properties can be obtained by the air layer.
  • 1 and 2 are flowcharts of a method of weaving a fabric including an air layer according to an embodiment of the present invention.
  • 1 and 2 are flowcharts of a method of weaving a fabric including an air layer according to an embodiment of the present invention.
  • the weaving method of a fabric containing an air layer includes a warp preparation step (S100), a warp and weft weaving step (S200), an air layer forming step (S300), and a first coating. It includes a step (S400) and a secondary coating step (S500).
  • the length of the high stock yarn 100 is elastically extended, and the first yarn 200 is laminated on the top of the high stock yarn 100 to form the high stock yarn 100 and the first yarn ( This refers to the preparation stage with 200) as the slope.
  • the high tension yarn 100 it is made of a material that is free to extend and contract, such as rubber or neoprene, and the length is elastically extended by pulling the high contraction yarn 100 to both sides or one side.
  • the highly reduced yarn 100 is extended in this way, the length increases and the thickness decreases compared to the high reduced yarn 100 before extension, and the high reduced yarn 100 then elastically contracts to its original length and length. It goes back to thickness.
  • the extended length of the high stock yarn 100 is preferably extended to 150 to 170 lengths, which is an increase of 50 to 70 lengths from the original length of 100, but is not limited thereto.
  • the density of the high livestock yarn decreases from 100 density parts to 40 to 50 density parts, which is 40 to 50 density parts for the 100 density part of the first yarn 200, which will be described later. It corresponds to the density part.
  • the first yarn 200 is laminated on the upper part of the high axis yarn 100 whose length is elastically extended.
  • the first yarn 200 may be polyacrylic, polyester, nylon, etc. for weaving fabric for general clothing, and may be spandex, brushed, aramid, rayon, etc., depending on the purpose, for weaving fabric for special clothing. It may be polyurethane, etc.
  • the first yarn 200 may be laminated so that the entire area is in contact with the high reduction yarn 100.
  • the first yarn 200 is stacked along the longitudinal direction of the high reduction yarn 100. They can be stacked so that contact and separation are repeated. Through this, a fine space can be formed between the high stock yarn 100 and the first yarn 200.
  • the warp and weft weaving step (S200) refers to the step of weaving the warp and weft yarns using the second yarn 300 as a weft on a warp yarn made up of the high axis yarn 100 and the first yarn 200.
  • the warp and weft yarns are woven using the second yarn 300 as a weft yarn on the warp yarn made up of the high stock yarn 100 and the first yarn 200 prepared through the warp preparation step (S100).
  • the second yarn 300 is not woven densely without any extra space like in general fabric weaving, but is woven with a certain gap between the second yarn 300 and the second yarn 300.
  • the area where the high stock yarn 100 and the first yarn 200 are in contact allow the second yarn 300 to be woven, and the area where the high stock yarn 100 and the first yarn 200 are spaced apart are used to weave the second yarn 300. 2.
  • the density at which the weft yarn is woven is 40 to 50 density parts relative to 100 density parts, which is the density at which the warp yarn is woven.
  • the second yarn 300 may be woven in pairs as shown in FIG. 2 in the area where the high axis yarn 100 and the first yarn 200 are in contact.
  • the second yarn 300 like the first yarn 200, may be selected from the group consisting of polyacrylic, polyester, nylon, spandex, brush, aramid, rayon, polyurethane, and mixtures thereof, and the first yarn ( 200) and the second yarn 300 are preferably made of the same material, but are not limited thereto.
  • the high axis yarn 100, the first yarn 200, and the second yarn 300 are made of the same thickness for the uniformity of the fabric to be woven, but the weave is not limited to this, and the weave of the fabric can be a cross weave or a plain weave. , the satin weaving method is most preferable, but this is also not limited.
  • the air layer forming step (S300) refers to the step of elastically contracting the length of the high stock yarn 100 to form an air layer between the high stock yarn 100 and the first yarn 200.
  • the high axis yarn 100 After weaving the high axis yarn 100, which has been extended to 120 to 130 lengths through the warp preparation step (S100), as a warp, the high axis yarn 100 is elastically contracted to its original length before extension to return to the 100 length part. .
  • the high reduction yarn 100 when the high reduction yarn 100 is elastically contracted, the stacked shape of the first yarn 200 laminated on the top of the high reduction yarn 100 is changed.
  • the high reduction yarn 100 Unlike this, it does not elastically contract or extend, so when the high tension yarn 100 is contracted as it is along its length, the gap between the areas in contact with the high density yarn 100 is reduced, resulting in an area that is not in contact with the high density yarn 100.
  • the air layer 400 is formed in a lifted shape.
  • the second yarn (300) increases. 300)
  • the density increases from 40 to 50 parts of density to 60 to 80 parts of density. This is because an air layer 400 is formed between the highly stocked yarn 100 and the first yarn 200 due to shrinkage of the highly stocked yarn 100, and the presence of the air layer 400 makes the second yarn 300 have a density of 100. Since it is woven only with a density of 60 to 80, rather than a small portion, the air layer 400 can be maintained without damaging it.
  • the air layer 400 preferably has a thickness that is 2 to 4 times greater than the thickness of the high livestock building 100. If the thickness of the air layer 400 is less than 2 times, sufficient air cannot be stored in the air layer 400. If the thickness of the air layer 400 exceeds 4 times, the thickness of the fabric is too thick and is not suitable for application to clothing.
  • the first coating step (S400) refers to a first coating step of forming the first coating layer 500 by first coating a coating agent on the upper part of the air layer 400.
  • the fabric in which the air layer 400 is formed between the high-wage yarn 100 and the first yarn 200 through the air layer forming step (S300) is coated with a coating agent 1 on the top of the air layer 400 to maintain the shape of the formed air layer 400. It is coated with tea. If the fabric is used with the air layer 400 exposed at the top without coating the upper part of the air layer 400, there is a risk that the air layer 400 may be damaged, such as losing its shape or being torn by external impact. . Therefore, the first coating layer 500 is formed by first coating the upper part of the air layer 400 with a coating agent so that the air does not escape from the air layer 400 and maintains its shape.
  • the coating agent can be applied in a variety of ways, such as waterproofing agents, water repellent agents, moisture repellent agents, and absorbents, depending on the function of the clothing.
  • waterproofing agents such as waterproofing agents, water repellent agents, moisture repellent agents, and absorbents, depending on the function of the clothing.
  • natural rubber, silicone, urethane, etc. can be applied as coating agents.
  • the first coating layer 500 is preferably made of a thickness of 0.5 to 1 times the thickness of the first yarn 200. If the thickness of the first coating layer 500 is less than 0.5 times, the upper portion of a portion of the air layer 400 Coating may not be done properly, and if it exceeds 1 time, the thickness of the final fabric obtained may be too thick.
  • the secondary coating step (S500) refers to the step of forming a second coating layer 600 with a uniform surface by secondary coating a coating agent on the top of the first coating layer 500.
  • the first coating layer 500 formed through the first coating step (S400) the first coating is applied to a relatively thin thickness to maintain the shape of the air layer 400.
  • the first coating layer 500 is formed into an air layer. It has the same convex surface as (400).
  • a coating agent is secondarily coated on the top of the convex first coating layer 500 to additionally form a second coating layer 600 having a uniform surface.
  • the second coating layer 600 when coating the coating agent on the top of the first coating layer 500, as shown in FIG. 2, when the space between the convex shapes is filled and the second coating is applied, the second coating layer 600 exposed to the outside has a flat shape. It is possible to have a uniform surface. When the second coating layer 600 is formed in this state, it can be applied to various clothing using the final manufactured fabric.
  • an air layer can be formed through the extension and contraction process of the high shrinkage yarn during the weaving process, and a fabric with excellent thermal insulation and waterproofing properties can be obtained by the air layer. .
  • a coating agent suitable for the purpose of the clothing it is possible to obtain a fabric having functions such as waterproofing, water repellency, moisture resistance, and absorbency.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)

Abstract

The technical subject matter of the present invention relates to a method for weaving a fabric comprising an air layer, comprising: a warp preparation step of elastically elongating the length of a high-shrinkage yarn, and stacking a first yarn on the high-shrinkage yarn, thereby preparing, as warp, the high-shrinkage yarn and the first yarn; a warp and weft weaving step of weaving warp and weft by using, as weft, a second yarn in the warp formed from the high-shrinkage yarn and the first yarn; and an air layer formation step of elastically shrinking the length of the high-shrinkage yarn, thereby forming an air layer between the high-shrinkage yarn and the first yarn. Therefore, the air layer can be formed by elongating and shrinking the high-shrinkage yarn, and a fabric with thermal insulation and water resistance that are improved by means of the air layer can be obtained.

Description

공기층을 포함하는 원단의 직조방법Method of weaving fabric containing air layer
본 발명은 공기층을 포함하는 원단의 직조방법에 관한 것으로, 보다 상세하게는 고축사의 연장 및 수축 과정을 통해 공기층을 형성할 수 있으며, 공기층에 의해 보온성 및 방수성이 우수해지는 공기층을 포함하는 원단의 직조방법에 관한 것이다.The present invention relates to a method of weaving a fabric containing an air layer. More specifically, the present invention relates to a method of weaving a fabric containing an air layer. In more detail, an air layer can be formed through the extension and contraction process of high-breeding yarn, and the air layer provides excellent thermal insulation and waterproofing properties. It's about the weaving method.
요가복, 사이클복, 운동복, 잠수복 등과 같이 특수한 기능을 하는 의복의 경우 일반 의복을 제조하는 원단과는 다르게 보온성, 방수성, 탈수성 등의 기능이 필요하다. 예를 들어 잠수복의 경우 잠수자가 수면 밑에서 작업 등을 할 때 또는 스킨 스쿠브 등의 레저 스포츠를 즐길 때 잠수자의 체온 방열을 억제하고, 어류 등으로부터 잠수자의 신체를 포호하기 위해 착용된다. 특히, 수십미터의 깊은 바다 속에서 장시간 동안 잠수하여도 물이 전혀 스며들지 않는 특성으로 인해 체온 유지력이 높아 많은 잠수자들의 필수 장비가 되었다.Clothing with special functions, such as yoga clothes, cycling clothes, sportswear, and wetsuits, requires functions such as thermal insulation, waterproofing, and dehydration, unlike fabrics used to manufacture general clothing. For example, in the case of a wetsuit, it is worn to suppress heat dissipation of the diver's body heat and to protect the diver's body from fish, etc. when the diver works under the water or enjoys leisure sports such as skin scuba diving. In particular, it has become an essential piece of equipment for many divers due to its high ability to maintain body temperature due to its characteristic that water does not seep in at all even when submerged for a long time in the sea tens of meters deep.
이와 같이 특수한 기능을 하는 의복을 제조하기 위해 사용되는 원단의 일부는 엠보 형상의 공기층을 구비하는 경우가 있는데, 이는 종래기술 "대한민국특허청 등록특허 제10-0920306호 천연섬유원단에 엠보싱형상을 구현하는 방법"과 같이 천연섬유원단을 준비하는 단계와; 상기 천연섬유원단을 물과 희석되어지는 수성우레탄계를 물과의 중량대비 5-7중량%로 혼합된 고착제로 사용하여 약품처리하는 전처리 단계와; 상기 전처리 단계 이후에 함침에 의한 로라 가압에 의하여 1차적으로 일정한 수분제거를 위하여 120-130℃의 온도에서 롤러에 의한 가압으로 수분이 80-90%가 제거되어지게 열건조토록하는 단계와; 상기 건조 단계이후에 열온도는 120-140℃의 범위에서 천연섬유원단을 열엠버롤러를 통하여 이송시켜 엠보싱을 성형하는 단계와; 상기와 같이 성형되어진 엠보싱은 120-140℃로 유지되는 챔버내를 텐션을 유지하면서 이동시켜 적외선램프열을 이용하여 열고착을 하는 단계로 제조되어지는 것이 특징이다.Some of the fabrics used to manufacture clothing with such special functions may have an embossed air layer, which is a method of implementing an embossed shape on natural fiber fabric according to the prior art "Korea Intellectual Property Office Registered Patent No. 10-0920306" Preparing a natural fiber fabric as described in “Method”; A pretreatment step of chemically treating the natural fiber fabric using a water-based urethane diluted with water as a fixative mixed at 5-7% by weight based on the weight of water; After the pretreatment step, heat drying to remove 80-90% of moisture by roller pressure at a temperature of 120-130°C to initially remove constant moisture by roller pressure by impregnation; After the drying step, forming the embossing by transferring the natural fiber fabric through a thermal amber roller at a heat temperature in the range of 120-140°C; The embossing molded as described above is characterized in that it is manufactured by moving it while maintaining tension in a chamber maintained at 120-140°C and heat-sealing it using infrared lamp heat.
하지만 이와 같은 종래기술의 경우 고온에서 열처리를 하여 원단을 제조하는 과정을 포함함에 의해 원단 본연의 질감과 성질을 경직되게 변화시키게 되는 문제점이 있으며, 열처리 과정에 의해 작업자의 안전이 보장되지 못한다는 단점이 있다.However, in the case of this prior art, there is a problem in that the original texture and properties of the fabric are changed to become rigid as it involves the process of manufacturing the fabric by heat treatment at high temperature, and the heat treatment process does not guarantee worker safety. There is.
본 발명은 상기와 같은 문제점을 해결하기 위해 안출된 것으로, 고축사의 연장 및 수축 과정을 통해 공기층을 형성할 수 있으며, 공기층에 의해 보온성 및 방수성이 우수해지는 공기층을 포함하는 원단의 직조방법을 제공하는 것을 목적으로 한다.The present invention was devised to solve the above problems, and provides a method of weaving a fabric including an air layer, which can form an air layer through the extension and contraction process of high shrinkage yarn, and has excellent thermal insulation and waterproofing properties due to the air layer. The purpose is to
상기한 목적은, 고축사의 길이를 탄성적으로 연장시키고, 상기 고축사의 상부에 제1원사를 적층하여 상기 고축사 및 상기 제1원사를 경사로 하여 준비하는 경사 준비단계; 상기 고축사 및 상기 제1원사로 이루어진 경사에 제2원사를 위사로 하여 경사 및 위사를 직조하는 경사 및 위사 직조단계; 및 상기 고축사의 길이를 탄성적으로 수축하여 상기 고축사와 상기 제1원사 사이에 공기층을 형성하는 공기층 형성단계;를 포함하는 것을 특징으로 하는 공기층을 포함하는 원단의 직조방법에 의해서 달성된다.The above-described object includes a warp preparation step of elastically extending the length of the high-grade yarn, stacking a first yarn on top of the high-stage yarn, and preparing the high-stage yarn and the first yarn as a warp; A warp and weft weaving step of weaving warp and weft yarns using a second yarn as a weft on a warp yarn made up of the high axis yarn and the first yarn; and an air layer forming step of elastically contracting the length of the high stock yarn to form an air layer between the high stock yarn and the first yarn.
여기서, 상기 공기층 형성단계 이후에, 상기 공기층의 상부에 코팅제를 1차로 코팅하여 제1코팅층을 형성하는 1차 코팅단계; 및 상기 제1코팅층의 상부에 상기 코팅제를 2차로 코팅하여 균일한 표면을 가지는 제2코팅층을 형성하는 2차 코팅단계;를 포함하는 것이 바람직하다.Here, after the air layer forming step, a first coating step of forming a first coating layer by first coating a coating agent on the upper part of the air layer; and a secondary coating step of secondary coating the coating agent on the top of the first coating layer to form a second coating layer having a uniform surface.
또한, 상기 공기층은 상기 고축사의 두께에 대해 2 내지 4배의 큰 두께로 형성되는 것이 바람직하다.In addition, the air layer is preferably formed to have a thickness 2 to 4 times greater than the thickness of the high livestock building.
상술한 바와 같이 본 발명에 따르면, 고축사의 연장 및 수축 과정을 통해 공기층을 형성할 수 있으며, 공기층에 의해 보온성 및 방수성이 우수해지는 원단을 얻을 수 있게 된다.As described above, according to the present invention, an air layer can be formed through the extension and contraction process of the high shrinkage yarn, and a fabric with excellent thermal insulation and waterproofing properties can be obtained by the air layer.
도 1 및 도 2는 본 발명의 실시예에 따른 공기층을 포함하는 원단의 직조방법의 순서도이다.1 and 2 are flowcharts of a method of weaving a fabric including an air layer according to an embodiment of the present invention.
이하, 본 발명의 기술적 사상을 첨부된 도면을 사용하여 더욱 구체적으로 설명한다. 첨부된 도면은 본 발명의 기술적 사상을 더욱 구체적으로 설명하기 위하여 도시한 일예에 불과하므로 본 발명의 기술적 사상이 첨부된 도면의 형태에 한정되는 것은 아니다.Hereinafter, the technical idea of the present invention will be described in more detail using the attached drawings. The attached drawings are merely examples to illustrate the technical idea of the present invention in more detail, so the technical idea of the present invention is not limited to the form of the attached drawings.
도 1 및 도 2는 본 발명의 실시예에 따른 공기층을 포함하는 원단의 직조방법의 순서도이다.1 and 2 are flowcharts of a method of weaving a fabric including an air layer according to an embodiment of the present invention.
본 발명에 따른 공기층을 포함하는 원단의 직조방법은, 도 1 및 도 2에 도시된 바와 같이 경사 준비단계(S100), 경사 및 위사 직조단계(S200), 공기층 형성단계(S300), 1차 코팅단계(S400) 및 2차 코팅단계(S500)를 포함한다.As shown in Figures 1 and 2, the weaving method of a fabric containing an air layer according to the present invention includes a warp preparation step (S100), a warp and weft weaving step (S200), an air layer forming step (S300), and a first coating. It includes a step (S400) and a secondary coating step (S500).
먼저 경사 준비단계(S100)는, 고축사(100)의 길이를 탄성적으로 연장시키고, 고축사(100)의 상부에 제1원사(200)를 적층하여 고축사(100) 및 제1원사(200)를 경사로 하여 준비하는 단계를 의미한다.First, in the warp preparation step (S100), the length of the high stock yarn 100 is elastically extended, and the first yarn 200 is laminated on the top of the high stock yarn 100 to form the high stock yarn 100 and the first yarn ( This refers to the preparation stage with 200) as the slope.
고축사(100)의 경우 고무 또는 네오프렌(neoprene)과 같이 연장 및 수축이 자유로운 소재로 이루어진 구성에 해당하며, 이러한 고축사(100)를 양쪽 또는 한쪽으로 당겨서 길이를 탄성적으로 연장시키게 된다. 이렇게 고축사(100)를 연장시키게 되면 길이가 증가함에 의해 연장 전의 고축사(100)에 비해 두께가 감소하는 형태가 되며, 고축사(100)는 이후에 탄성적으로 수축을 통해 원래의 길이 및 두께로 되돌아가게 된다. 여기서 고축사(100)의 연장 길이는 본래의 길이 100길이부에 대해 50 내지 70길이부가 증가한 150 내지 170길이부로 연장되는 것이 바람직하나 이에 한정되지는 않는다. 이와 같이 고축사(100)의 길이를 연장할 경우 고축사의 밀도는 100밀도부에서 40 내지 50밀도부로 밀도가 감소하게 되며, 이는 후술할 제1원사(200) 100밀도부에 대해서도 40 내지 50밀도부에 해당한다.In the case of the high tension yarn 100, it is made of a material that is free to extend and contract, such as rubber or neoprene, and the length is elastically extended by pulling the high contraction yarn 100 to both sides or one side. When the highly reduced yarn 100 is extended in this way, the length increases and the thickness decreases compared to the high reduced yarn 100 before extension, and the high reduced yarn 100 then elastically contracts to its original length and length. It goes back to thickness. Here, the extended length of the high stock yarn 100 is preferably extended to 150 to 170 lengths, which is an increase of 50 to 70 lengths from the original length of 100, but is not limited thereto. In this way, when the length of the high livestock yarn 100 is extended, the density of the high livestock yarn decreases from 100 density parts to 40 to 50 density parts, which is 40 to 50 density parts for the 100 density part of the first yarn 200, which will be described later. It corresponds to the density part.
길이가 탄성적으로 연장된 고축사(100)의 상부에 제1원사(200)를 적층하게 된다. 여기서 제1원사(200)는 일반 의복용으로 원단을 직조하기 위해서는 폴리아크릴, 폴리에스터, 나일론 등이 될 수 있으며, 특수한 의복용으로 원단을 직조하기 위해서는 용도에 따라 스판, 기모, 아라미드, 레이온, 폴리우레탄 등이 될 수 있다.The first yarn 200 is laminated on the upper part of the high axis yarn 100 whose length is elastically extended. Here, the first yarn 200 may be polyacrylic, polyester, nylon, etc. for weaving fabric for general clothing, and may be spandex, brushed, aramid, rayon, etc., depending on the purpose, for weaving fabric for special clothing. It may be polyurethane, etc.
이때 제1원사(200)는 전 영역이 고축사(100)와 접촉하도록 적층될 수도 있으나, 후술할 공기층(400)의 형성을 위해서는 고축사(100)의 길이방향을 따라 제1원사(200)가 접촉 및 이격이 반복되도록 적층할 수 있다. 이를 통해 고축사(100)와 제1원사(200) 사이에 미세한 공간이 형성될 수 있다.At this time, the first yarn 200 may be laminated so that the entire area is in contact with the high reduction yarn 100. However, in order to form the air layer 400, which will be described later, the first yarn 200 is stacked along the longitudinal direction of the high reduction yarn 100. They can be stacked so that contact and separation are repeated. Through this, a fine space can be formed between the high stock yarn 100 and the first yarn 200.
경사 및 위사 직조단계(S200)는, 고축사(100) 및 제1원사(200)로 이루어진 경사에 제2원사(300)를 위사로 하여 경사 및 위사를 직조하는 단계를 의미한다.The warp and weft weaving step (S200) refers to the step of weaving the warp and weft yarns using the second yarn 300 as a weft on a warp yarn made up of the high axis yarn 100 and the first yarn 200.
경사 준비단계(S100)를 통해 준비된 고축사(100) 및 제1원사(200)로 이루어진 경사에 제2원사(300)를 위사로 하여 경사 및 위사를 직조하게 된다. 여기서 제2원사(300)는 일반적인 원단 직조와 같이 여유 공간이 없게 치밀하게 직조하는 것이 아닌, 제2원사(300)와 제2원사(300) 사이에 일정 간격을 두고 직조를 하게 된다. 상세하게는 고축사(100)와 제1원사(200)가 접촉되어 있는 영역은 제2원사(300)가 직조되도록 하며, 고축사(100)와 제1원사(200)가 이격된 영역은 제2원사(300)가 직조되지 않도록 한다. 이에 의해 경사가 직조되는 밀도인 100밀도부에 대해 위사가 직조되는 밀도는 40 내지 50밀도부로 이루어지게 된다. 경우에 따라서 제2원사(300)는 도 2에 도시된 바와 같이 한 쌍으로 하여 고축사(100)와 제1원사(200)가 접촉되어 있는 영역에 직조될 수도 있다.The warp and weft yarns are woven using the second yarn 300 as a weft yarn on the warp yarn made up of the high stock yarn 100 and the first yarn 200 prepared through the warp preparation step (S100). Here, the second yarn 300 is not woven densely without any extra space like in general fabric weaving, but is woven with a certain gap between the second yarn 300 and the second yarn 300. In detail, the area where the high stock yarn 100 and the first yarn 200 are in contact allow the second yarn 300 to be woven, and the area where the high stock yarn 100 and the first yarn 200 are spaced apart are used to weave the second yarn 300. 2. Prevent yarn 300 from being woven. As a result, the density at which the weft yarn is woven is 40 to 50 density parts relative to 100 density parts, which is the density at which the warp yarn is woven. In some cases, the second yarn 300 may be woven in pairs as shown in FIG. 2 in the area where the high axis yarn 100 and the first yarn 200 are in contact.
이는 위사의 직조가 제1원사(200)가 형성한 미세한 공간에 영향을 주지 않으면서, 이후의 단계들을 통해 고축사(100)가 수축하는 과정 중 제2원사(300)가 방해가 되지 않도록 하기 위함이다. 여기서 제2원사(300)는 제1원사(200)와 마찬가지로 폴리아크릴, 폴리에스터, 나일론, 스판, 기모, 아라미드, 레이온, 폴리우레탄 및 이의 혼합으로 이루어진 군으로부터 선택될 수 있으며, 제1원사(200)와 제2원사(300)는 서로 동일한 소재로 이루어지는 것이 바람직하나 이에 한정되지는 않는다.This is to ensure that the weaving of the weft does not affect the minute space formed by the first yarn 200 and that the second yarn 300 does not interfere with the process of shrinking the high-strength yarn 100 through subsequent steps. It is for this purpose. Here, the second yarn 300, like the first yarn 200, may be selected from the group consisting of polyacrylic, polyester, nylon, spandex, brush, aramid, rayon, polyurethane, and mixtures thereof, and the first yarn ( 200) and the second yarn 300 are preferably made of the same material, but are not limited thereto.
또한, 고축사(100), 제1원사(200) 및 제2원사(300)는 직조되는 원단의 균일성을 위해 서로 동일한 두께로 이루어지는 것이 바람직하나 이에 한정되지 않으며, 원단의 직조는 교직, 평직, 수자직 방식이 가장 바람직하나 이 또한 한정되지는 않는다.In addition, it is preferable that the high axis yarn 100, the first yarn 200, and the second yarn 300 are made of the same thickness for the uniformity of the fabric to be woven, but the weave is not limited to this, and the weave of the fabric can be a cross weave or a plain weave. , the satin weaving method is most preferable, but this is also not limited.
공기층 형성단계(S300)는, 고축사(100)의 길이를 탄성적으로 수축하여 고축사(100)와 제1원사(200) 사이에 공기층을 형성하는 단계를 의미한다.The air layer forming step (S300) refers to the step of elastically contracting the length of the high stock yarn 100 to form an air layer between the high stock yarn 100 and the first yarn 200.
경사 준비단계(S100)를 통해 120 내지 130길이부로 연장된 고축사(100)를 경사로 하여 직조한 후, 고축사(100)를 연장 전 본래의 길이로 탄성적으로 수축하여 100길이부로 되돌아가도록 한다. 이와 같이 고축사(100)를 탄성적으로 수축하게 되면 고축사(100)의 상부에 적층된 제1원사(200)의 적층 형상이 변경되는데, 제1원사(200)의 경우 고축사(100)와는 달리 탄성적으로 수축 또는 연장되지 않기 때문에 제 길이 그대로 고축사(100)의 수축을 받게 되면 고축사(100)와 접촉된 영역 간의 간격이 축소됨에 의해 고축사(100)와 접촉되지 않는 영역이 들뜨는 형상으로 공기층(400)을 형성하게 된다. After weaving the high axis yarn 100, which has been extended to 120 to 130 lengths through the warp preparation step (S100), as a warp, the high axis yarn 100 is elastically contracted to its original length before extension to return to the 100 length part. . In this way, when the high reduction yarn 100 is elastically contracted, the stacked shape of the first yarn 200 laminated on the top of the high reduction yarn 100 is changed. In the case of the first yarn 200, the high reduction yarn 100 Unlike this, it does not elastically contract or extend, so when the high tension yarn 100 is contracted as it is along its length, the gap between the areas in contact with the high density yarn 100 is reduced, resulting in an area that is not in contact with the high density yarn 100. The air layer 400 is formed in a lifted shape.
이와 동시에 고축사(100)의 길이가 수축하게 되면 위사에 해당하는 제2원사(300) 간의 간격이 감소하게 되면서 제2원사(300)의 직조 밀도가 증가하게 되며, 상세하게는 제2원사(300)는 40 내지 50밀도부에서 60 내지 80밀도부로 밀도가 증가하게 된다. 이는 고축사(100)의 수축에 의해 고축사(100)와 제1원사(200) 사이에 공기층(400)이 형성되기 때문이며, 공기층(400)의 존재에 의해 제2원사(300)는 100밀도부가 아닌 60 내지 80밀도부로만 직조되어 공기층(400)을 훼손시키지 않고 유지할 수 있게 된다.At the same time, when the length of the high-axial yarn 100 shrinks, the gap between the second yarns 300 corresponding to the weft decreases, and the weaving density of the second yarn 300 increases. In detail, the second yarn (300) increases. 300), the density increases from 40 to 50 parts of density to 60 to 80 parts of density. This is because an air layer 400 is formed between the highly stocked yarn 100 and the first yarn 200 due to shrinkage of the highly stocked yarn 100, and the presence of the air layer 400 makes the second yarn 300 have a density of 100. Since it is woven only with a density of 60 to 80, rather than a small portion, the air layer 400 can be maintained without damaging it.
또한 공기층(400)은 고축사(100)의 두께에 대해 2 내지 4배로 큰 두께를 가지는 것이 바람직한데, 공기층(400)의 두께가 2배 미만일 경우 공기층(400) 내에 충분한 공기를 저장할 수 없으며, 공기층(400)의 두께가 4배를 초과할 경우 원단의 두께가 너무 두꺼워서 의복에 적용하기 적합하지 않게 된다.In addition, the air layer 400 preferably has a thickness that is 2 to 4 times greater than the thickness of the high livestock building 100. If the thickness of the air layer 400 is less than 2 times, sufficient air cannot be stored in the air layer 400. If the thickness of the air layer 400 exceeds 4 times, the thickness of the fabric is too thick and is not suitable for application to clothing.
1차 코팅단계(S400)는, 공기층(400)의 상부에 코팅제를 1차로 코팅하여 제1코팅층(500)을 형성하는 1차 코팅단계를 의미한다.The first coating step (S400) refers to a first coating step of forming the first coating layer 500 by first coating a coating agent on the upper part of the air layer 400.
공기층 형성단계(S300)를 통해 고축사(100)와 제1원사(200) 사이에 공기층(400)이 형성된 원단은 형성된 공기층(400)의 모양 유지를 위해 공기층(400)의 상부에 코팅제를 1차로 코팅하게 된다. 만약 공기층(400)의 상부에 코팅을 수행하지 않고 공기층(400)이 최상부에 노출된 상태로 원단을 사용할 경우 외부의 충격에 의해 모양이 흐트러지거나 뜯어지는 등 공기층(400)이 훼손될 우려가 있다. 따라서 공기층(400)으로부터 공기가 빠져나가지 않고 제 형상을 유지할 수 있도록 공기층(400)의 상부에 코팅제를 1차로 코팅하여 제1코팅층(500)을 형성하게 된다. 여기서 코팅제는 의복의 기능에 따라 방수제, 발수제, 방습제, 흡수제 등을 다양하게 적용 가능하며, 상세하게는 천연고무, 실리콘, 우레탄 등을 코팅제로 적용 가능하다.The fabric in which the air layer 400 is formed between the high-wage yarn 100 and the first yarn 200 through the air layer forming step (S300) is coated with a coating agent 1 on the top of the air layer 400 to maintain the shape of the formed air layer 400. It is coated with tea. If the fabric is used with the air layer 400 exposed at the top without coating the upper part of the air layer 400, there is a risk that the air layer 400 may be damaged, such as losing its shape or being torn by external impact. . Therefore, the first coating layer 500 is formed by first coating the upper part of the air layer 400 with a coating agent so that the air does not escape from the air layer 400 and maintains its shape. Here, the coating agent can be applied in a variety of ways, such as waterproofing agents, water repellent agents, moisture repellent agents, and absorbents, depending on the function of the clothing. Specifically, natural rubber, silicone, urethane, etc. can be applied as coating agents.
여기서 제1코팅층(500)은 제1원사(200)의 두께에 대해 0.5 내지 1배의 두께로 이루어지는 것이 바람직한데, 제1코팅층(500)의 두께가 0.5배 미만일 경우 일부 공기층(400)의 상부에 코팅이 제대로 이루어지지 않을 수 있으며, 1배를 초과할 경우 최종적으로 얻어지는 원단의 두께가 너무 두껍게 될 수 있다는 단점이 있다.Here, the first coating layer 500 is preferably made of a thickness of 0.5 to 1 times the thickness of the first yarn 200. If the thickness of the first coating layer 500 is less than 0.5 times, the upper portion of a portion of the air layer 400 Coating may not be done properly, and if it exceeds 1 time, the thickness of the final fabric obtained may be too thick.
2차 코팅단계(S500)는, 제1코팅층(500)의 상부에 코팅제를 2차로 코팅하여 균일한 표면을 가지는 제2코팅층(600)을 형성하는 단계를 의미한다.The secondary coating step (S500) refers to the step of forming a second coating layer 600 with a uniform surface by secondary coating a coating agent on the top of the first coating layer 500.
1차 코팅단계(S400)를 통해 형성된 제1코팅층(500)의 경우 공기층(400)의 형상을 유지하기 위해 비교적 얇은 두께로 1차 코팅하는 것으로, 이러한 과정을 통해 제1코팅층(500)은 공기층(400)과 동일하게 볼록한 형상의 표면을 가지게 된다. 하지만 원단의 표면이 볼록한 형상을 가질 경우 의복의 종류에 따라 원단으로 사용하기 적합하지 않을 수 있다. 따라서 볼록한 형상의 제1코팅층(500)의 상부에 코팅제를 2차로 코팅하여 균일한 표면을 가지는 제2코팅층(600)을 추가로 형성하게 된다. In the case of the first coating layer 500 formed through the first coating step (S400), the first coating is applied to a relatively thin thickness to maintain the shape of the air layer 400. Through this process, the first coating layer 500 is formed into an air layer. It has the same convex surface as (400). However, if the surface of the fabric has a convex shape, it may not be suitable for use as a fabric depending on the type of clothing. Therefore, a coating agent is secondarily coated on the top of the convex first coating layer 500 to additionally form a second coating layer 600 having a uniform surface.
상세하게는 제1코팅층(500)의 상부에 코팅제를 코팅할 때 도 2에 도시된 바와 같이 볼록한 형상 사이의 공간을 메우면서 2차로 코팅하게 되면 외부로 노출된 제2코팅층(600)이 편평한 형상으로 이루어져 균일한 표면을 가질 수 있게 된다. 이러한 상태로 제2코팅층(600)이 형성될 경우 최종으로 제조되는 원단을 이용하여 다양한 의복에 적용이 가능해진다.In detail, when coating the coating agent on the top of the first coating layer 500, as shown in FIG. 2, when the space between the convex shapes is filled and the second coating is applied, the second coating layer 600 exposed to the outside has a flat shape. It is possible to have a uniform surface. When the second coating layer 600 is formed in this state, it can be applied to various clothing using the final manufactured fabric.
이와 같이 본 발명에 따른 직조방법을 통해 원단을 직조할 경우, 직조 과정 중 고축사의 연장 및 수축 과정을 통해 공기층을 형성할 수 있으며, 공기층에 의해 보온성 및 방수성이 우수해지는 원단을 얻을 수 있게 된다. 이는 고축사가 수축되더라도 원단을 잘랐을 때 공기층이 무너지지 않고 유지될 수 있다. 또한, 의복의 용도에 따라 적합한 코팅제를 이용하여 제1코팅층 및 제2코팅층을 형성함에 의해 방수성, 발수성, 방습성, 흡수성 등의 기능을 가지는 원단을 얻을 수 있게 된다.In this way, when fabric is woven through the weaving method according to the present invention, an air layer can be formed through the extension and contraction process of the high shrinkage yarn during the weaving process, and a fabric with excellent thermal insulation and waterproofing properties can be obtained by the air layer. . This means that even if the high shrinkage yarn shrinks, the air layer can be maintained without collapsing when the fabric is cut. In addition, by forming the first coating layer and the second coating layer using a coating agent suitable for the purpose of the clothing, it is possible to obtain a fabric having functions such as waterproofing, water repellency, moisture resistance, and absorbency.
본 발명은 상기한 실시예에 한정되지 아니하며, 적용범위가 다양함은 물론이고, 청구범위에서 청구하는 본 발명의 요지를 벗어남이 없이 다양한 변형실시가 가능한 것은 물론이다.The present invention is not limited to the above-described embodiments, and the scope of application is diverse. Of course, various modifications are possible without departing from the gist of the present invention as claimed in the claims.

Claims (3)

  1. 고축사의 길이를 탄성적으로 연장시키고, 상기 고축사의 상부에 제1원사를 적층하여 상기 고축사 및 상기 제1원사를 경사로 하여 준비하는 경사 준비단계;A warp preparation step of elastically extending the length of the high stock yarn and laminating a first yarn on top of the high stock yarn to prepare the high stock yarn and the first yarn as a warp;
    상기 고축사 및 상기 제1원사로 이루어진 경사에 제2원사를 위사로 하여 경사 및 위사를 직조하는 경사 및 위사 직조단계; 및A warp and weft weaving step of weaving warp and weft yarns using a second yarn as a weft on a warp yarn made up of the high axis yarn and the first yarn; and
    상기 고축사의 길이를 탄성적으로 수축하여 상기 고축사와 상기 제1원사 사이에 공기층을 형성하는 공기층 형성단계;를 포함하는 것을 특징으로 하는 공기층을 포함하는 원단의 직조방법.A method of weaving a fabric including an air layer, comprising an air layer forming step of elastically contracting the length of the high stock yarn to form an air layer between the high stock yarn and the first yarn.
  2. 제 1항에 있어서,According to clause 1,
    상기 공기층 형성단계 이후에,After the air layer forming step,
    상기 공기층의 상부에 코팅제를 1차로 코팅하여 제1코팅층을 형성하는 1차 코팅단계; 및A primary coating step of forming a first coating layer by first coating a coating agent on the upper part of the air layer; and
    상기 제1코팅층의 상부에 상기 코팅제를 2차로 코팅하여 균일한 표면을 가지는 제2코팅층을 형성하는 2차 코팅단계;를 포함하는 것을 특징으로 하는 공기층을 포함하는 원단의 직조방법.A secondary coating step of forming a second coating layer having a uniform surface by secondary coating the coating agent on the top of the first coating layer.
  3. 제 1항에 있어서,According to clause 1,
    상기 공기층은 상기 고축사의 두께에 대해 2 내지 4배의 큰 두께로 형성되는 것을 특징으로 하는 공기층을 포함하는 원단의 직조방법.A method of weaving a fabric including an air layer, wherein the air layer is formed with a thickness 2 to 4 times greater than the thickness of the high-breeding yarn.
PCT/KR2022/017191 2022-07-21 2022-11-04 Method for weaving fabric comprising air layer WO2024019233A1 (en)

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