WO2023275581A1 - Dispositif applicateur pour l'application d'un produit cosmétique fluide ou pâteux, obtenu par moulage d'un biomatériau, et biomatériau associé - Google Patents

Dispositif applicateur pour l'application d'un produit cosmétique fluide ou pâteux, obtenu par moulage d'un biomatériau, et biomatériau associé Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2023275581A1
WO2023275581A1 PCT/IB2021/000438 IB2021000438W WO2023275581A1 WO 2023275581 A1 WO2023275581 A1 WO 2023275581A1 IB 2021000438 W IB2021000438 W IB 2021000438W WO 2023275581 A1 WO2023275581 A1 WO 2023275581A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
biomaterial
core
biomass
cosmetic product
applicator device
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/IB2021/000438
Other languages
English (en)
Inventor
Eric DE BARDONNECHE
Philippe COMBRONDE
Stephan WENDEL PACCAGNELLA
Original Assignee
Societe Industrielle De Matieres Plastiques
HCP Packaging
Aesop Technologies, Inc.
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Societe Industrielle De Matieres Plastiques, HCP Packaging, Aesop Technologies, Inc. filed Critical Societe Industrielle De Matieres Plastiques
Priority to EP21751863.8A priority Critical patent/EP4362744A1/fr
Priority to PCT/IB2021/000438 priority patent/WO2023275581A1/fr
Publication of WO2023275581A1 publication Critical patent/WO2023275581A1/fr

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A46—BRUSHWARE
    • A46D—MANUFACTURE OF BRUSHES
    • A46D1/00—Bristles; Selection of materials for bristles
    • A46D1/02—Bristles details
    • A46D1/0253—Bristles having a shape which is not a straight line, e.g. curved, "S", hook, loop
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A46—BRUSHWARE
    • A46B—BRUSHES
    • A46B9/00—Arrangements of the bristles in the brush body
    • A46B9/02—Position or arrangement of bristles in relation to surface of the brush body, e.g. inclined, in rows, in groups
    • A46B9/021—Position or arrangement of bristles in relation to surface of the brush body, e.g. inclined, in rows, in groups arranged like in cosmetics brushes, e.g. mascara, nail polish, eye shadow
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A46—BRUSHWARE
    • A46D—MANUFACTURE OF BRUSHES
    • A46D1/00—Bristles; Selection of materials for bristles
    • A46D1/02—Bristles details
    • A46D1/0207—Bristles characterised by the choice of material, e.g. metal
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A46—BRUSHWARE
    • A46B—BRUSHES
    • A46B2200/00—Brushes characterized by their functions, uses or applications
    • A46B2200/10—For human or animal care
    • A46B2200/1046—Brush used for applying cosmetics
    • A46B2200/1053—Cosmetics applicator specifically for mascara

Definitions

  • the invention relates to the field of applicator devices for applying a fluid or pasty cosmetic product to keratin fibres or to an epidermis.
  • the invention relates to an applicator device for applying a cosmetic, makeup or care product to the hair, the eyelashes, the eyebrows, the skin or the lips.
  • the invention also relates to a biomaterial for moulding such an applicator device.
  • applicator devices for applying a product of the fluid or pasty type to keratin fibres, such as mascara brushes, for example, comprising a central core of elongate shape extending along a longitudinal axis and at least one row of elongate spikes comprising a first end embedded in the core and a second free end.
  • the spikes and the core are formed in one piece by moulding and are integral with one another.
  • the document FR 2937514 describes such applicator devices.
  • this type of applicator device is obtained by moulding at least one thermoplastic elastomer material such as Hytrel®, which is the preferred material for this type of production of applicator devices by moulding.
  • thermoplastics such as Hytrel® are ether ester copolymers (COPE) belonging to the family of thermoplastic elastomer (TPE) materials.
  • COPE thermoplastic elastomer
  • a thermoplastic such as Hytrel® provides a very good compromise between its mechanical characteristics, its chemical stability with respect to the composition of the cosmetic product used, and the makeup finish effect, in particular for the eyelashes.
  • thermoplastic elastomer materials originating from fossil resources exist and are used to manufacture devices for applying a cosmetic product.
  • the document FR 3 046 340 provides an exhaustive list thereof and can be consulted for more information.
  • the applicator has to pick up the pasty product contained in a closed container via an orifice, and pass through this orifice in a manner loaded with product, in order to apply it to the user’s lips.
  • the applicator device itself is of variable shape and geometry.
  • This applicator is a single applicator and is flocked, meaning that it has a rough outer surface.
  • This flocking consists in microfibres being attached to all or part of the outer surface of the applicator.
  • the invention aims to overcome the drawbacks of the prior art by allowing the production of an applicator device for applying a cosmetic product that is produced by moulding an ecological and recyclable material that has a zero, if not negative, carbon footprint (also known as Life Cycle Analysis, or
  • the invention has the advantage of reducing contamination as far as possible within the limits of the current knowledge of a person skilled in the art.
  • the invention provides an applicator device for applying a fluid or pasty cosmetic product to keratin fibres or an epidermis, which is made of a mouldable material originating from a biomass, also known as biomaterial, that is injection moulded.
  • the device according to the invention has or comprises at least one of the following technical features: - the biomaterial originates from a non-food biomass;
  • the biomaterial is designed to have a carbon footprint score less than or equal to 0 kg CC>2-eq;
  • the biomaterial does not contain any additions of materials originating from fossil resources; - the biomass makes up at least 50% of the biomaterial; the biomass makes up at least 60% of the biomaterial; the biomass makes up at least 80% of the biomaterial; the biomaterial exhibits a tensile strength less than 10 MPa;
  • the biomaterial exhibits an elongation at break less than 490%
  • the device has an elongate core extending along a longitudinal main axis XX and having a longitudinal cylindrical shape, and a plurality of spikes distributed over said core;
  • each spike extends from an end anchored in the core to a free end and is formed integrally with said core;
  • the core is made of a first biomaterial and the spikes of a second biomaterial; - the device also has a stem extending in the continuation of the core along the longitudinal main axis XX; and
  • the device also has a cap mounted on the stem.
  • the invention also provides a makeup assembly having an applicator device for applying a fluid or pasty product to keratin fibres or an epidermis and having an applicator device having at least one of the above technical features, a reservoir and a wiping device mounted on a neck of the reservoir.
  • the assembly according to the invention has or comprises at least one of the following technical features:
  • the wiping device is made of a mouldable material originating from a biomass, also known as a biomaterial, that is injection moulded;
  • the wiping device is made of two mouldable materials originating from a biomass, also known as biomaterials, that are injection moulded, the two biomaterials being different at least in terms of their mechanical characteristics.
  • the invention also provides a biomaterial for manufacturing an applicator device having at least one of the above technical features or for manufacturing the wiping device of the makeup assembly having at least one of the above technical features, the biomaterial comprising the following composition:
  • the biomaterial according to the invention has or comprises at least the following technical feature: the biomaterial optionally comprises cellulose and /or lignin.
  • FIG.1 illustrates a perspective view of a known makeup assembly having a cosmetic product applicator device according to the invention
  • FIG.2 illustrates a perspective view of the applicator device in Figure 1 according to one of a number of embodiments
  • FIG.3 illustrates a comparative graph of the elongation of a spike of the applicator device in Figure 1 as a function of tensile stress
  • FIG.4 illustrates an enlarged graph of a part of the comparative graph in Figure
  • FIG. 1 illustrates a makeup assembly for applying a fluid or pasty product such as a cosmetic makeup product, which is known per se.
  • This assembly comprises a container or reservoir 10 having a neck 5 and a wiping device 11 disposed in the neck 5.
  • This assembly also comprises a stem 12, a cap or gripping handle 13, and an applicator device 14 for applying a cosmetic product, these being fastened together to form an assembly that is removable from the reservoir 10 and the wiping seal 11 .
  • All of the elements set out above generally exhibit symmetry of revolution about the longitudinal main axis XX of the makeup assembly, unless indicated otherwise below.
  • the cosmetic product contained inside the reservoir 10 could be liquid or semi-liquid; various applications can be envisaged.
  • the cosmetic product contained in the reservoir 10 is a product as defined in Regulation EC 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and Council of 30 November 2009 relating to cosmetic products, and directive EU 94_62_EC, the US standard “California Proposition 65” or “REACH”.
  • the cosmetic product intended to be applied by the cosmetic product applicator device 14 according to the invention can also be in the form of a powder or of a solid. It remains preferably in the form of a fluid or paste. It is a product intended to be deposited on a user’s keratin fibres, such as the eyelashes or eyebrows: for example a mascara.
  • the applicator device 14 is, in this case, a mascara brush. It comprises, in this case, a core 2 that extends longitudinally along a longitudinal main axis XX.
  • the core 2 may have a cross section that is or is not constant along its length. In the most common embodiments either the cross section is constant or the cross section decreases from a proximal end engaged with a gripping handle and/or tube to a distal free end.
  • the core 2 has a cylindrical overall shape, preferably exhibiting symmetry of revolution about an axis, the longitudinal main axis XX.
  • the cross section of the core 2 may have a circular, polygonal, oval or other shape. It may be axisymmetric.
  • the core 2 may be solid or hollow.
  • a person skilled in the art will choose the most appropriate core depending on the economic and/or technical constraints.
  • the applicator device 14 according to the invention has a plurality of spikes 15 distributed over the core 2.
  • the spikes 15 protrude from an external peripheral surface of the core 2.
  • the spikes 15 are, for example, integral with the core 2.
  • the spikes 15 are obtained by moulding with the core 2.
  • the spikes 15 are distributed in adjacent rows in pairs extending longitudinally in a manner parallel to the longitudinal main axis XX.
  • the spikes 15 in one and the same row extend in the same way with one and the same orientation, parallel to one another, from the core 2.
  • the spikes 15 in one of the adjacent rows are oriented differently from the spikes 15 in the other of the adjacent rows, for example, as illustrated in Figure 1 , at 180°.
  • the orientation is 90°.
  • Other shapes and/or arrangements of spikes 15 are possible without departing from the scope of the invention and are widely documented in the documents already published on this subject.
  • the cosmetic product applicator device 14 is obtained by moulding a biomaterial.
  • the other elements of the makeup assembly can also be made of biomaterial.
  • the biomaterial used to produce the cosmetic product applicator device 14 according to the invention is a mouldable material obtained from at least 50%, preferably at least 60%, and even more preferably at least 80% biomass.
  • This biomass originates from plants not intended for human consumption.
  • the biomass used for obtaining the mouldable biomaterial comes mainly from production waste from wood processing facilities.
  • the process for converting this biomass makes it possible to obtain a mouldable biomaterial which, after being used, can be recycled in the conventional recycling sector, known as the “poubelle gleich” in France, which deals, among other things, with cardboard, paper and certain plastics.
  • the injection-mouldable biomaterial obtained in this way does not make use of an addition of fossil resources, such as petroleum (also known as “mass balance”).
  • the invention also relates to a novel material, namely the mouldable biomaterial according to the invention.
  • This biomaterial has mechanical and physical properties that are comparable with products well known to a person skilled in the art and in particular ether ester copolymers such as the one known as Hytrel® that is described above.
  • the biomaterial used has the following composition:
  • cellulose can confer greater hardness on the biomaterial, equivalent to that observed for ether ester copolymers such as Hytrel®, for example, namely between 37 ShoreD and 63 ShoreD, the hardness being decisive for the performance and comfort of application of the cosmetic product and thus the makeup finish effect for example.
  • cellulose originates from a biomass which is a renewable plant resource that is not intended for human consumption.
  • the material according to the invention has a density less than 1 , preferably less than 0.95, and thus confers better buoyancy on the devices according to the invention.
  • the ether ester copolymers have a density greater than or equal to 1.
  • the mouldable biomaterials for producing the applicator device 14 for applying the cosmetic product according to the invention have been developed with the company Aesop Technologies, Inc., and bear the names Advanced LW-AB® 4713 X, Advanced LW-AB® 4717 X and Advanced LW-AB® 2705 X.
  • the biomaterial Advanced LW-AB® 4713 X has a score of -0.7 kg C0 2 -eq (for kilogram of CO2 equivalent) and the biomaterial Advanced LW- AB® 4717 X has a score of -2.5 kg C0 2 -eq.
  • the materials of the TPE type such as Hytrel®, which are available industrially for moulding cosmetic product applicator devices mostly originate from fossil resources and consequently have a positive score in terms of kg C0 2 -eq, in particular between +1 and +3 kg C0 2 -eq depending on the grades of TPE such as Hytrel® or SEBS, in contrast to the abovementioned biomaterials according to the invention, which have a negative score.
  • Table 1 - Mechanical properties [0033] The first point that becomes apparent from Table 1 is that the materials used have different mechanical properties, but this is not the case for their hardness, which is relatively equal and around 90-96 ShoreA. It is therefore no longer necessary to use this hardness as a basis, as is conventional for the choice of TPEs such as Hytrel®, to choose the biomaterial suitable for producing the cosmetic product applicator device 14 according to the invention depending on the desired makeup effects.
  • the elastomer NBR 70 ShoreA is, in a manner known per se, a nitrile rubber, also known as buna-N, in particular an acrylonitrile (ACN) and butadiene synthetic elastomer rubber having a hardness of 70 ShoreA.
  • a nitrile rubber also known as buna-N
  • ACN acrylonitrile
  • butadiene synthetic elastomer rubber having a hardness of 70 ShoreA.
  • the relatively constant hardness (90-95 ShoreA) among the biomaterials tested is comparable with that of Hytrel®4068 (around 35 ShoreD) or Hytrel® (around 53 ShoreD), knowing that, on the ShoreD measurement scale, a hardness of 90 ShoreA corresponds substantially to a hardness of 35 to 40 ShoreD.
  • hardness is no longer a selection criterion for producing the cosmetic product applicator device 14 according to the invention and in particular the spikes 15.
  • biomaterials according to the invention exhibit excellent integrity. Specifically, the biomaterials according to the invention interact very little, if at all, with the cosmetic composition contained in the reservoir 10. Thus, the biomaterials according to the invention have the advantage of being safe materials from a user’s health point of view since they do not give rise to unidentified degradation products that are potentially toxic in the medium to long term.
  • a formulation for dyeing or treating keratin fibres with an applicator device 14 for applying a cosmetic product according to the invention having spikes moulded from one of the biomaterials from the company Aesop Technologies makes the hand movements used for applying makeup more fluid and comfortable by reducing the application effort, with a reduced application force, more comfortable gliding over the eyelashes, and a new “touch” sensation. Moreover, more rapid transfer of a load of cosmetic product has been found. Thus, this improvement in the finish and the hand movements for applying makeup is due to the consistent mechanical properties of the chemistry of the biomaterials presented.
  • the resistance to and compatibility with the cosmetic product are similar to those obtained with a TPE such as Hytrel®, without having the latter’s drawbacks of not being recyclable.
  • the biomaterials from the company Aesop Technologies that are used are entirely compatible with conventional sectors, in particular those associated with recycling.
  • applicator device 14 corresponding to a mascara brush
  • all the above applies to any applicator device for applying a cosmetic product, in particular to an epidermis, such as a “gloss” or flat applicator device, which is producible from one or more biomaterials according to the invention.
  • the makeup assembly in Figure 1 comprises, among other things as described above, a container or reservoir 10 and a wiping device 11 .
  • Biomaterials are usable to produce these elements.
  • the wiping device 11 is also known as a wiper, the function of which is to “wipe” the applicator device 14 as it is withdrawn from the reservoir 10 in order that said applicator device 14 only retains an optimal quantity of cosmetic product to be applied.
  • This wiping device 11 is producible from a biomaterial according to the invention as described above.
  • the documents FR 3 005 835, WO2018/069217 and W02021/019131 describe two-part wiping devices 11. It is possible to refer thereto for more information.
  • These wiping devices described in those documents are formed from two parts that are joined together: a part known as the upper part allowing the wiping device 11 to be fixed in the neck 5 of the reservoir 10, and a lower part forming the wiping lip attached to the upper part.
  • the upper part needs to have mechanical properties that allow secure retention in the neck 5 of the reservoir 10: it is produced, for example, by injection moulding the biomaterial Advanced LW-AB® 4713 X.
  • the lower part forming the wiping lip needs to have a degree of “flexibility” to allow the applicator device 14 to pass through more easily while leaving an optimal quantity of cosmetic product thereon: it is produced, for example, by injection moulding the biomaterial Advanced LW-AB® 4717 X.
  • the wiping device 11 is in one piece and formed from two materials distributed so as to produce an upper part for fixing the wiping device 11 in the neck 5 of the reservoir 10 and a lower part forming the wiping lip.
  • the upper part needs to have mechanical characteristics that allow secure retention in the neck 5 of the reservoir 10: it is produced, for example, from the biomaterial Advanced LW-AB® 4713 X.
  • the lower part forming the wiping lip needs to have a degree of “flexibility” to allow the applicator device 14 to pass through more easily while leaving an optimal quantity of cosmetic product thereon: it is produced, for example, from the biomaterial Advanced LW-AB® 4717 X.
  • the wiping device 11 is produced by injection moulding the two biomaterials either simultaneously in one and the same mould, or successively by overmoulding one of the biomaterials over the other of the biomaterials.

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  • Cosmetics (AREA)
  • Brushes (AREA)

Abstract

Le dispositif applicateur 14 pour appliquer un produit cosmétique fluide ou pâteux sur des fibres de kératine ou un épiderme est constitué d'un matériau moulable provenant d'une biomasse, également connu sous le nom de biomatériau, qui est moulé par injection.
PCT/IB2021/000438 2021-06-30 2021-06-30 Dispositif applicateur pour l'application d'un produit cosmétique fluide ou pâteux, obtenu par moulage d'un biomatériau, et biomatériau associé WO2023275581A1 (fr)

Priority Applications (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP21751863.8A EP4362744A1 (fr) 2021-06-30 2021-06-30 Dispositif applicateur pour l'application d'un produit cosmétique fluide ou pâteux, obtenu par moulage d'un biomatériau, et biomatériau associé
PCT/IB2021/000438 WO2023275581A1 (fr) 2021-06-30 2021-06-30 Dispositif applicateur pour l'application d'un produit cosmétique fluide ou pâteux, obtenu par moulage d'un biomatériau, et biomatériau associé

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
PCT/IB2021/000438 WO2023275581A1 (fr) 2021-06-30 2021-06-30 Dispositif applicateur pour l'application d'un produit cosmétique fluide ou pâteux, obtenu par moulage d'un biomatériau, et biomatériau associé

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO2023275581A1 true WO2023275581A1 (fr) 2023-01-05

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PCT/IB2021/000438 WO2023275581A1 (fr) 2021-06-30 2021-06-30 Dispositif applicateur pour l'application d'un produit cosmétique fluide ou pâteux, obtenu par moulage d'un biomatériau, et biomatériau associé

Country Status (2)

Country Link
EP (1) EP4362744A1 (fr)
WO (1) WO2023275581A1 (fr)

Citations (12)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR2826246A1 (fr) 2001-06-26 2002-12-27 Oreal Essoreur a montage simplifie
FR2937514A1 (fr) 2008-10-29 2010-04-30 Ile M V R Soc Civ Dispositif applicateur d'un produit cosmetique fluide ou pateux, typiquement du mascara
US7866906B2 (en) 2004-07-13 2011-01-11 L'oreal Packaging and applicator device for applying a cosmetic or another care product
WO2013153528A1 (fr) 2012-04-11 2013-10-17 L'oreal Dispositif de conditionnement et d'application d'un produit cosmétique ou d'un produit de soin sur les lèvres
FR3005835A1 (fr) 2013-05-22 2014-11-28 Montaigu Dev Dispositif d'essuyage pour produit pateux, procede de montage associe
FR3046340A1 (fr) 2016-01-05 2017-07-07 Oreal Organe d'application pour applicateur de produit cosmetique, ledit organe d'application etant obtenu au moins partiellement par moulage d'au moins un materiau thermoplastique elastomere
EP3193663A1 (fr) 2014-09-19 2017-07-26 Simp Dispositif applicateur de produit fluide sur une surface complexe
WO2018069217A1 (fr) 2016-10-13 2018-04-19 L'oreal Dispositif d'essuyage en deux parties
WO2020116671A1 (fr) * 2018-12-05 2020-06-11 주식회사 브러시월드 Brosse à dents modulaire biodégradable et respectueuse de l'environnement
FR3095115A1 (fr) * 2019-04-16 2020-10-23 Toly Management Ltd. Applicateur de cosmétique avec structures de brosse et d'applicateur moulé séparées
US20200367631A1 (en) * 2019-05-22 2020-11-26 Toly Management Ltd. Cosmetic applicator with separately formed surfaces
WO2021019131A1 (fr) 2019-07-31 2021-02-04 Societe Industrielle De Matieres Plastiques Dispositif d'essorage en deux parties

Patent Citations (12)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR2826246A1 (fr) 2001-06-26 2002-12-27 Oreal Essoreur a montage simplifie
US7866906B2 (en) 2004-07-13 2011-01-11 L'oreal Packaging and applicator device for applying a cosmetic or another care product
FR2937514A1 (fr) 2008-10-29 2010-04-30 Ile M V R Soc Civ Dispositif applicateur d'un produit cosmetique fluide ou pateux, typiquement du mascara
WO2013153528A1 (fr) 2012-04-11 2013-10-17 L'oreal Dispositif de conditionnement et d'application d'un produit cosmétique ou d'un produit de soin sur les lèvres
FR3005835A1 (fr) 2013-05-22 2014-11-28 Montaigu Dev Dispositif d'essuyage pour produit pateux, procede de montage associe
EP3193663A1 (fr) 2014-09-19 2017-07-26 Simp Dispositif applicateur de produit fluide sur une surface complexe
FR3046340A1 (fr) 2016-01-05 2017-07-07 Oreal Organe d'application pour applicateur de produit cosmetique, ledit organe d'application etant obtenu au moins partiellement par moulage d'au moins un materiau thermoplastique elastomere
WO2018069217A1 (fr) 2016-10-13 2018-04-19 L'oreal Dispositif d'essuyage en deux parties
WO2020116671A1 (fr) * 2018-12-05 2020-06-11 주식회사 브러시월드 Brosse à dents modulaire biodégradable et respectueuse de l'environnement
FR3095115A1 (fr) * 2019-04-16 2020-10-23 Toly Management Ltd. Applicateur de cosmétique avec structures de brosse et d'applicateur moulé séparées
US20200367631A1 (en) * 2019-05-22 2020-11-26 Toly Management Ltd. Cosmetic applicator with separately formed surfaces
WO2021019131A1 (fr) 2019-07-31 2021-02-04 Societe Industrielle De Matieres Plastiques Dispositif d'essorage en deux parties

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