WO2023275497A1

WO2023275497A1 - Coloured solid cosmetic composition with a non-silicone elastomer and a phospholipid

Info

Publication number: WO2023275497A1
Application number: PCT/FR2022/051306
Authority: WO
Inventors: Marie HERVÉ-BERDYS; Corinne PIOFFET
Original assignee: L V M H Recherche
Priority date: 2021-06-30
Filing date: 2022-06-30
Publication date: 2023-01-05
Also published as: FR3124728A1

Abstract

The present invention relates to a solid, preferably anhydrous, composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: i) a crosslinked polyurethane elastomer gel comprising at least one solvent and a single crosslinked polyurethane elastomer or a mixture of at least two crosslinked polyurethane elastomers, said elastomer or said elastomer mixture being obtained from a prepolymer having at least two hydroxyl groups and from a (poly)isocyanate, ii) a phospholipid, preferably a lecithin, and iii) one or more pigments.

Description

DESCRIPTION

TITLE: Solid cosmetic composition colored with a non-silicone elastomer and a phospholipid

FIELD OF THE INVENTION

The present invention relates to the cosmetic field and in particular to solid, preferably anhydrous, colored cosmetic compositions comprising a non-silicone elastomer and a phospholipid, preferably a lecithin. The non-silicone elastomer is preferably biosourced.

STATE OF THE ART

Silicone elastomers are widely used in cosmetics for their ability to impart sensoriality and mattness to care and makeup products in which they are incorporated.

However, they have the disadvantage of a silicone chemistry that the consumer abandons, in favor of more natural, biodegradable products.

There is therefore still a need to develop new compositions, preferably anhydrous, with ingredients of natural or bio-sourced origin, as an alternative to silicone ingredients, but without compromising on the stability (texture) of the composition and its sensory and matte properties at the app.

The international application published under number W02021/041046 in the name of GRANT INDUSTRIES INC. describes a new biosourced elastomer, which is marketed under the name Gransense™. But when this biosourced elastomer is formulated in a solid composition, preferably anhydrous, comprising pigments, such as lip sticks, it can lead to color inhomogeneities (flow) in the bulk or on the surface of the composition. This color problem is even more visible to the naked eye for light colors, comprising white pigments (eg: titanium dioxide), in particular in a content of at least 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition . It is therefore sought to improve the stability and the homogeneity of the color of such a preferably anhydrous solid composition comprising said biosourced elastomer and pigments. The Applicant has precisely shown that the use of a phospholipid, in particular a lecithin, in an anhydrous solid colored composition, makes it possible to solve this problem.

This combination makes it possible to obtain an anhydrous solid colored composition with a uniform shade, comfort and a gummed and homogeneous effect on keratin materials and in particular the lips, and is advantageously an alternative to compositions for the lips comprising silicone elastomers.

DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION

A first aspect of the invention is therefore a solid composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: i) a crosslinked polyurethane elastomer gel comprising at least one solvent and a single crosslinked polyurethane elastomer or a mixture of at least two cross-linked polyurethane elastomers, said elastomer or said mixture of elastomers being obtained from a prepolymer having at least two hydroxyl groups and from a (poly)isocyanate, ii) a phospholipid, preferably a lecithin, and iii) a or more pigments. According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention is an anhydrous composition.

According to a particular embodiment, the pigments are chosen from inorganic pigments, organic pigments and mixtures thereof.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition comprises at least one organic pigment (lacquer) on an alumina or aluminum oxide support.

According to one particular embodiment, the composition comprises at least white pigments, such as titanium dioxide, in particular in a content of at least 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and inorganic and/or organic pigments , in particular at least one organic pigment on an alumina or aluminum oxide support.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition will also comprise a fatty phase comprising one or more oils and at least one fatty substance chosen from pasty fatty substances, waxes, butters and mixtures thereof.

According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the composition also comprises at least one filler, in particular a mineral filler, more preferably a silica.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least 70%, 80%, 90%, or even at least 95% by weight of biobased ingredients.

The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin and/or the lips and preferably the lips, comprising the application to the said keratin materials and preferably the lips of a composition according to the invention.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

A first aspect of the invention is therefore a solid cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: i) a crosslinked polyurethane elastomer gel comprising at least one solvent and a single crosslinked polyurethane elastomer or a mixture of at least two cross-linked polyurethane elastomers, said elastomer or said mixture of elastomers being obtained from a prepolymer having at least two hydroxyl groups and from a (poly)isocyanate, ii) a phospholipid, preferably a lecithin, and iii) one or more pigments.

The composition of the invention is in solid form.

The term “solid” is understood to mean a composition exhibiting, at 20° C. and at atmospheric pressure (1 atm=105 Pa), a hardness greater than 0.5 N, preferably greater than 1.5 N, said hardness preferably being measured using a texturometer equipped with a hemispherical base with a diameter of 11.6 mm.

According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention is an anhydrous composition.

By “anhydrous” is meant in particular that the water is preferably not deliberately added to the compositions but may be present in trace form in the various compounds used in the compositions. In particular, the composition according to the invention comprises less 4% by weight of water, preferably less than 3%, preferably less than 2%, more preferably less than 1%, even more preferably less than 0.5% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of said composition, or even is completely free of water. Advantageously, the ingredients present in the composition of the invention are biosourced ingredients.

By “biosourced” ingredients according to the invention, we mean ingredients obtained essentially from materials of natural origin. According to the definition given by ADEME (Ecological Transition Agency), biobased products are non-food industrial products obtained from renewable raw materials from biomass (plants for example).

Thus, according to a particular and preferred mode, the composition will comprise at least 70% by weight of bio-based ingredients, in particular at least 80%, 90% or even at least 95% by weight of bio-based compounds, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Advantageously, the composition of the invention contains less than 5%, preferably less than 1%, of silicone compounds. It is preferably free from it. The term “silicone compound” means a molecule comprising at least one silicon atom. The composition is preferably devoid of a compound chosen from crosslinked silicone polymers such as silicone elastomers, silicone resins, silicone surfactants, silicone gums, cyclic silicones of a volatile nature, and phenyl silicone oils, and dimethicones.

NON-SILICONE ELASTOMER

We will speak indiscriminately of non-silicone elastomer or cross-linked polyurethane elastomer of the invention.

By ‘elastomer’ we generally mean a cross-linked polymer with elastic properties.

The crosslinked polyurethane elastomer is in particular in the form of a gel, in which the crosslinked polyurethane elastomer is dispersed in at least one solvent. The elastomer gel can comprise one or more cross-linked polyurethane elastomers.

Preferably, the composition of the invention comprises a crosslinked polyurethane elastomer gel comprising at least one solvent and a single crosslinked polyurethane elastomer or a mixture of at least two crosslinked polyurethane elastomers, said elastomer or said mixture of elastomers being obtained from a prepolymer having at least two hydroxyl groups and from a (poly)isocyanate.

Preferably the polyurethane elastomer(s) are/is micronized (particle size of 1 to 100 microns, preferably 1 to 60 microns in diameter).

The crosslinked polyurethane elastomer gel used in the invention may consist of a single crosslinked polyurethane elastomer or of a mixture of at least two crosslinked polyurethane elastomers, the elastomer or the mixture of elastomers being obtained by reacting a (poly)isocyanate with a prepolymer having at least two hydroxyl groups and a cosmetic solvent under conditions to form the crosslinked polyurethane elastomer. In particular, a urethanization reaction catalyst is used, such as a catalyst based on bismuth or zinc.

The crosslinked polyurethane elastomer is advantageously biosourced, that is to say obtained from raw materials of natural origin (85%, better still 90%, or even 95% biosourced). Thus, according to a preferred mode, the prepolymer, the (poly)isocyanate and the cosmetic solvent are of natural origin (for example vegetable) at more than 85%, even more than 95%.

Pre-polymers

According to a particular embodiment, the prepolymer having at least two hydroxyl groups is a copolymer of a carboxylic acid dimer or trimer, and of a polyol.

As prepolymers, mention may in particular be made of copolymers of a dimer or a trimer of a carboxylic acid, preferably C16-C20, and of a polyol.

Examples are cited in the application published under the number WO202141046 in the name of Grant Industries Inc.

The carboxylic acid may comprise a linear carbon chain with at least one carbon-carbon double bond, as is the case with an unsaturated fatty acid.

Preferably, the carboxylic acid is a dimer of C12-C18 fatty acids, in particular dilinoleic acid.

The polyol can be saturated or unsaturated, can include two or three -OH functions, and optionally include other functions such as one or more ester functions. The polyol is for example an aliphatic diol comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms, in particular 3 or 4 carbon atoms, such as propanediol or butanediol. The polyol can also be a fatty acid triglyceride comprising at least two —OH groups, for example ricinoleic acid triglyceride, or a natural plant source containing it, such as castor oil.

Thus, according to a particular embodiment, the polyol is chosen from the group consisting of an aliphatic diol comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as 1,2 ethanediol, propanediols such as 1,2 propanediol, 1,3 propanediol , butanediol, pentanediol, caprylyl glycol, preferably propanediols and butanediol; a fatty acid triglyceride comprising at least two -OH groups, such as ricinoleic acid triglyceride or a vegetable source containing it, such as castor oil.

According to a particular embodiment, the prepolymer is a copolymer of dilinoleic acid and propanediol (DAPD) or a copolymer of dilinoleic acid and butanediol (DABP).

(Poly)isocyanates

(Poly)isocyanates are compounds containing an isocyanate (-NCO) group. They react with prepolymers containing hydroxyl groups to produce polyurethane polymers. The (poly)isocyanate is advantageously a diisocyanate, preferably an aliphatic diisocyanate which may contain 5 or 6 carbon atoms (in its main chain or its cycle). The diisocyanate can be linear or cyclic.

Thus, according to a particular embodiment, the (poly)isocyanate is a diisocyanate, in particular an aliphatic diisocyanate which may contain from 5 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably chosen from 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate (HDI), 1 ,5-pentamethylene diisocyanate (PDI) or isophorone diisocyanate (IPDI).

As preferred (poly)isocyanate, mention may be made of the 1,5-pentamethylene diisocyanate trimer. cosmetic solvent As cosmetic solvents used in the synthesis of the crosslinked polyurethane elastomer and/or the formation of the crosslinked polyurethane elastomer gel, mention may be made of esters, ethers, alkanes and their mixtures. According to a particular method, it is possible to use: triglycerides of plant origin such as glycerol trihexanoate, glycerol triheptanoate (triheptanoin), glycerol trioctanoate, coco-caprylate/caprate, C9-C22 alkanes such as undecane, tridecane; esters of natural origin and mixtures thereof, preferably glycerol triheptanoate (triheptanoin), coco-caprylate/caprate, C9-C22 alkanes, esters of natural origin and mixtures thereof.

Crosslinked polyurethane elastomers which can be used according to the invention are described in the application published under the number W0202141046 in the name of Grant Industries Inc.

The preparation of a crosslinked polyurethane elastomer and the subsequent formation of a crosslinked polyurethane elastomer gel as used according to the invention may comprise the following steps:

- Reaction of a biobased prepolymer with a biobased (poly)isocyanate using a urethanization reaction catalyst such as a bismuth catalyst at a suitable and controlled temperature, for example from 20° C. to 100° C., in a reaction medium comprising a bio-based solvent or a mixture of preferably bio-based solvents to form the crosslinked polyurethane elastomer; alternatively, the formation of the crosslinked polyurethane elastomer can take place without stirring, at room temperature, for about 24 hours;

- Formation of a concentrated elastomer gel in the form of a dispersion, by micronizing said crosslinked polyurethane elastomer until a particle size preferably ranging from 1 to 100 microns is obtained and optionally the addition of a cosmetic solvent before or after the micronization step;

- The concentrated elastomer can then optionally be diluted with a secondary solvent, volatile or non-volatile, to obtain the desired viscosity for the cross-linked polyurethane elastomer gel.

According to a particular mode, the prepolymer, which contains 2 hydroxyl groups, represents a content ranging from 5 to 25% by weight of the crosslinked polyurethane elastomer. The preferably bio-based (poly)isocyanate contains 15 to 38%, or 15 to 28% -NCO group. The total molar ratio of the -NCO groups of the isocyanate to the -OH groups of the polyol can range from 2:1 to 1:2, and is preferably 1:1.

The content of cosmetic solvent(s) will generally be 70 to 95% by weight relative to the weight of cross-linked polyurethane elastomer.

The catalyst content may be from 0.1 to 2.5% by weight.

The elastomer gel can comprise at least one solvent and a crosslinked polyurethane elastomer or a mixture of crosslinked polyurethane elastomers.

According to one particular embodiment, the crosslinked polyurethane elastomer gel used in the compositions according to the invention may comprise from 5 to 30% by weight, in particular from 5 to 17% by weight of active material of elastomer(s) of cross-linked polyurethane(s), and from 70 to 95% by weight, in particular from 83 to 95% by weight of solvent(s).

According to a particular embodiment, the crosslinked polyurethane elastomer gel used according to the invention is the crosslinked polyurethane elastomer gel prepared in Example 6 or in Example 9 of application WO202141046 from Grant Industries Inc. The pre -polymer is a copolymer of C8 dimer acid and 1,3 propanediol (DAPD) or 1,4 butanediol (DABD), the polyisocyanate is a pentylene diisocyanate (PDT) trimer, the catalyst is bismuth neodecanoate and the solvent is a mixture of coco-caprylate/caprate and glycerol triheptanoate. The concentrated gel is then formed by the micronization of said cross-linked polyurethane elastomer and the addition of glycerol triheptanoate. The concentrated gel is then diluted with the addition of C9-C12 alkanes (Vegelight 1214).

Such crosslinked polyurethane elastomer gels are marketed under the name Gransense™ by Grant Industries.

According to a particular embodiment, the prepolymer is a reaction product of a diol and a dimer acid, in particular of a dilinoleic acid and propanediol or butanediol and the (poly)isocyanate is a trimer of 1, 5-pentamethylene diisocyanate.

Thus, according to a particular embodiment, the crosslinked polyurethane elastomer is obtained from dilinoleic acid, propanediol or butanediol and pentamethylene diisocyanate. This cross-linked polyurethane elastomer can be described as a non-silicone elastomer of a polyester nature and have the INCI name: polyurethane-10 Elastomer or polyurethane-100 Elastomer.

The following commercial references of the company Grant Industries Inc. can be mentioned in particular:

GRANSENSE TC-11X with INCI name Coco-Caprylate/Caprate (and) Triheptanoin (and) Polyurethane-10 Elastomer; and

GRANSENSE TC-8X with INCI name Coco-Caprylate/Caprate (and) Triheptanoin (and) C9-12 Alkane (and) Polyurethane-100 Elastomer.

According to another particular embodiment, the gel of crosslinked polyurethane elastomers comprises a mixture of at least two crosslinked polyurethane elastomers, said mixture being obtained from prepolymers of dilinoleic acid/polyols and of isophorone diisocyanate, the two polyols being butanediol and castor oil.

The mixture of these elastomers may have the following INCI names:

Triheptanoin (and) Coco-Caprylate/Caprate (and) Dilinoleic Acid/Butanediol Copolymer (and) Castor Oil/IPDI Copolymer Elastomer, or

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate (and) Triheptanoin (and) C9-12 Alkane (and) Dilinoleic Acid/Butanediol Copolymer (and) Castor Oil/IPDI Copolymer Elastomer.

GRANSENSE TC-18-X-C INCI name: Coco-Caprylate/Caprate (and) Triheptanoin (and) C9-12 Alkane (and) Dilinoleic Acid/Butanediol Copolymer (and) Castor Oil/IPDI Copolymer Elastomer GRANSENSE TC-21 -X-C INCI name: Triheptanoin (and) Coco-Caprylate/Caprate (and) Dilinoleic Acid/Butanediol Copolymer (and) Castor Oil/IPDI Copolymer Elastomer GRANSENSE TC-21X-SBC INCI name: Triheptanoin (and) Coco-caprylate/caprate (and ) Dilinoleic Acid/Butanediol Copolymer (and) Castor Oil/IPDI Copolymer Elastomer (and) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter).

The crosslinked polyurethane elastomer (alone or mixture of two elastomers) according to the invention will generally be present in the composition in a total dry matter (active) content ranging from 0.5% to 5% by weight, in particular from 1 % to 3% and in particular from 2 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

PHOSPHOLIPID The composition further comprises a phospholipid, preferably a phospholipid of plant origin.

The phospholipids can be phosphatidylcholine, phosphatidylserine, phosphatidylethanolamine, phosphatidylserine, phosphatidylglycerol, phosphatidylinositol or mixtures thereof, preferably phosphatidylcholine.

Mention may in particular be made of lecithin.

Lecithin is a mixture composed of choline, fatty acids, glycerol, glycolipids, triglycerides, carbohydrates and phospholipids (ex: phosphatidylcholine, phosphatidylethanolamine, phosphatidylserine and phosphatidylinositol). It can be isolated from vegetable oils such as soybean oil, sunflower oil, corn oil, from which it is chemically or mechanically extracted.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises a lecithin (INCI name lecithin).

Compliant lecithins are for example:

- Lecithins of plant origin (sunflower, rapeseed, soya) marketed under the name SOLEC® Lecithin by the company Dupont Nutrition &Bioscience;

- Soy lecithins marketed under the name ALCOLEC® by the American Lecithin Company;

- Lecithins marketed by Lucas Meyer Cosmetics under the brand names Emulmetik™:

• Emulmetik™ 100 (INCI name: lecithin): 60% phospholipids and glycolipids and 12% phosphatidylcholine,

• Emulmetik™ 300 (INCI name: lecithin): 97% phospholipids and glycolipids and 23% phosphatidylcholine.

According to a particular mode, the commercial reference Emulmetik™ 300 (INCI name: lecithin) is used: 97% phospholipids and glycolipids and 23% phosphatidylcholine.

The composition of the invention comprises a total content of phospholipid(s), in particular a total content of lecithin(s) ranging from 0.1 to 2%, in particular from 0.2 to 1% and in particular from 0.4 at 0.8%, or even from 0.5 to 0.6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

PIGMENTS

The composition of the invention comprises one or more pigments for coloring keratin materials, in particular the skin and/or the lips, in particular the lips.

In particular, the pigment(s) are present in a total content ranging from 1% to 15% by weight, in particular from 2% to 12%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

By “pigments” is meant white or colored, mineral or organic particles, insoluble in an aqueous solution, intended to color and/or opacify the resulting deposit. Mention may be made of inorganic pigments (otherwise called mineral pigments), organic pigments, and composite pigments (that is to say pigments based on inorganic and/or organic materials).

Among the “inorganic pigments”, mention may be made, by way of examples, of titanium dioxide; black, yellow, red and brown iron oxides and manganese violet. Among the "organic pigments", mention may be made, for example, of the pigments D & C red No. 19; D & C red No. 9; D&C Red No. 22; D&C Red No. 21; D&C Red No. 28; D&C Yellow No. 6; D & C Orange No. 4; D & C Orange No. 5; D & C Red No. 27; D & C red No. 13; D&C Red No. 7; D&C Red No. 6; D&C Yellow No. 5; D&C Red No. 36; D&C Red No. 33; D & C Orange No. 10; D & C yellow No. 6; D&C Red No. 30; D&C red No. 3; D&C Blue 1; D&C Red No.7 lake; D&C Red No.28 lake (Cl 45410); FD&C Yellow 5 Al Lake (C69-4424); FD&C Yellow 6 Al Lake (C70-5270); FD&C Blue 1 Al Lake (C39-4433); carbon black and cochineal carmine-based lakes.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition comprises an organic pigment consisting of a colorant on an alumina or aluminum hydroxide base, such as the pigments D&C Red No.7 lake (Cl 15850 (and) Aluminum Hydroxide), FD&C Yellow 5 Al Lake ( C69-4424); FD&C Yellow 6 Al Lake (C70-5270); FD&C Blue 1 Al Lake (C39-4433), and mixtures thereof.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises pigments chosen from inorganic pigments, organic pigments and mixtures thereof, in particular:

- one or more inorganic pigments chosen from titanium dioxide, iron oxides (for example red, yellow, brown, black) and mixtures thereof, preferably a mixture of titanium dioxide and iron oxides, and

- one or more organic pigments chosen from the pigments D & C Red No. 7, D & C Red No.7 lake (Cl 15850), D & C Red No. 28 lake (Cl 45410); FD&C Yellow 5 Al Lake (C69-4424); FD&C Yellow 6 Al Lake (C70-5270); FD&C Blue 1 Al Lake (C39-4433), and mixtures thereof.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least inorganic pigments. According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least inorganic pigments and organic pigments.

Thus, according to a particular embodiment, the composition comprises at least titanium dioxide, one or more iron oxides (yellow, red, brown and/or black) and one or more organic pigments, in particular chosen from D & C Red no. 7, D&C Red No.7 lake (Cl 15850), D&C Red No.28 lake (Cl 45410); FD&C Yellow 5 Al Lake (C69-4424); FD&C Yellow 6 Al Lake (C70-5270); FD&C Blue 1 Al Lake (C39-4433), and mixtures thereof.

According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention comprises titanium dioxide in a content of at least 0.5% by weight, in particular at least 0.8% by weight, or even at least 1% by weight with respect to by weight of the composition, one or more iron oxides (yellow, red, brown and/or black) and one or more organic pigments, in particular chosen from D & C Red No. 7, D & C Red No.7 lake (Cl 15850), D&C Red No.28 lake (Cl 45410); FD&C Yellow 5 Al Lake (C69-4424); FD&C Yellow 6 Al Lake (C70-5270); FD&C Blue 1 Al Lake (C39-4433), and mixtures thereof.

In particular, the total content of pigment(s) ranges from 1 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

According to a particular embodiment, the inorganic pigments are present in a content ranging from 1 to 15% by weight, in particular from 2 to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a particular embodiment, the organic pigments are present in a content ranging from 1 to 15% by weight, in particular from 2 to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to one particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises: a) A crosslinked polyurethane elastomer (alone or as a mixture) in a total dry matter content ranging from 0.5% to 5% by weight, in particular from 1% to 3% and in particular from 2 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, b) A lecithin in a content ranging from 0.4 to 0.8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and c) Inorganic and/or organic pigments in a total content ranging from 2 to 12% by weight per relative to the total weight of the composition.

FAT PHASE

The composition of the invention also comprises a fatty phase.

This fatty phase comprises oils (identical to or distinct from the solvents present in the gel of the non-silicone elastomer) and at least one fatty substance chosen from waxes, pasty fatty substances, butters, and mixtures thereof.

By "oil" is meant a fatty substance, insoluble in water, liquid at 25° C. and atmospheric pressure.

By “fat” according to the invention, is meant a solid compound or comprising a solid fraction at 25°C. Mention may in particular be made of butters, waxes, pasty compounds, and mixtures thereof.

By “wax”, within the meaning of the present invention, is meant to denote a solid compound at 25° C. which exhibits a reversible solid/liquid state change and a melting temperature greater than 30° C., preferably greater than 45° C. .

The term “pasty fatty substance” denotes a non-crystalline fatty compound comprising, at a temperature of 25° C., a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

The additional oils and fatty substances that can be used according to the invention can be of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin. Preferably, biosourced oils and fatty substances will be used.

As fatty substances or vegetable oils that can be used, mention may be made in particular of the following vegetable oils and fatty substances:

- "vegetable oils" such as: deodorized oleic sunflower oil, virgin sweet almond oil, virgin muscat rose oil, avocado oil, safflower oil, camelina oil, jojoba oil, borage oil, grape seed oil, argan oil, nigella oils, pumpkin seed oil, perilla oil, castor oil and mixtures thereof,

- “butters” such as: Murumuru butter, Mango butter, Shea butter, cocoa butter and Cupuaçu butter, and mixtures thereof,

- “vegetable waxes” such as: carnauba wax, beeswax, candelilla wax, jojoba wax, sunflower wax, rice bran wax and mixtures thereof,

- "pasty fatty substances" chosen from the group consisting of esters of polyol(s) and of fatty acid diacid dimer, or of one of its esters, hydrogenated castor oil esters, oligomeric glycerol esters, in particular diglycerol esters, and mixtures thereof,

- and mixtures thereof.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention will comprise, as pasty fatty substance, at least one ester of diol dimer and diacid dimer, where appropriate, esterified on their alcohol(s) or acid function(s). s) free(s) by acid or alcohol radicals, in particular dimer dilinoleate esters, such as those with the following INCI nomenclature:

- the copolymer of polyglyceryl-2 isostearate/dimer dilinoleate (Hailucent ISDA from Estenity); - bis-behenyl/isostearyl/phytosteryl dimerdilinoleyl dimerdilinoleate (Plandool G from Estenity), or phytosteryl/isosteryl/cetyl/stearyl/behenyl dimerdilinoleate (Plandool H or Plandool S),

- dimerdilinoleyl dimerdilinoleate (Lusplan DDA7 from Unipex), and mixtures thereof.

The total content of diol ester(s) and fatty acid diacid dimer, or one of its esters in the composition of the invention will generally range from 0.5% to 20% by weight, in particular from 1% to 10% by weight and preferably from 2% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention will comprise at least one vegetable oil and at least one vegetable fatty substance chosen from a vegetable wax, a vegetable butter and mixtures thereof.

According to one particular embodiment, the composition further comprises, as additional oil distinct from the oils (solvents) present in the gel of the non-silicone elastomer, at least one polar hydrocarbon-based oil.

By “polar oil” within the meaning of the present invention, is meant an oil whose solubility parameter at 25° C., Δa, is different from 0 (J/cm ³ ) ^1/2 .

In particular, the polar hydrocarbon-based oil or oils comprise at least one alcohol function (it is then an “alcohol oil”) or at least one ester function (it is then an “ester oil”).

Among the “alcohol oils”, mention may in particular be made of C10-C26, more particularly C10-C24, and preferably C12-C22 alcohols, saturated or not, branched or not, more particularly monoalcohols. More particularly, the C10-C26 alcohols are fatty monoalcohols, preferably branched when they comprise at least 16 carbon atoms. As examples of fatty alcohols which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of linear or branched fatty alcohols, of synthetic or even natural origin. As specific examples of fatty alcohols which can be used on a preferred basis, mention may in particular be made of lauryl, isostearyl or oleic alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol , octyldodecanol and mixtures thereof. According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the fatty alcohol is octyldodecanol.

Among the ester oils, mention may be made in particular of:

- hydroxylated esters, preferably having a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70, such as polyglycerol-2 triisostearate, isostearyl lactate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, glycerol stearate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate;

- fatty acid esters, in particular with 4 to 22 carbon atoms,

- synthetic esters such as oils of formula R1COOR2 in which Ri represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular branched, containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms at provided that R1+R2 is >16, such as isononyl isononanoate, 2-hexyl ethyl palmitate, octyledodecyl neopentanoate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl-2 dodecyl benzoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethyl-hexyl palmitate, 2-hexyl-decyl laurate, 2-octyl-decyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, 2-diethylhexyl succinate;

- linear fatty acid esters having a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70;

- esters of aromatic acids and alcohols comprising 4 to 22 atoms; - esters of fatty alcohol or of branched C24-C28 fatty acids;

- polyesters resulting from the esterification of at least one triglyceride of hydroxylated carboxylic acid(s) with an aliphatic monocarboxylic acid and with an optionally unsaturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acid; and their mixtures.

The composition of the invention may also comprise at least one hydrocarbon oil chosen from: capric/caprylic triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether, dicaprylyl carbonate, coco-caprylate/caprate, triheptanoin, linear or branched C9-C22 alkanes , in particular: C8-C16 iso-alkanes (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names ISOPAR® or PERMETYL®, linear or branched alkanes having hydrocarbon chains in

- C9-C17, C10-C14, such as a mixture of undecane and tridecane, marketed by BASF Care Créations under the name Cetiol® Ultimate,

- C15-C19, such as those marketed by Seppic under the name EMOGREEN® L15,

- C9-C12, C12-C14, such as those marketed by BIOSYNTHIS under the name VEGELIGHT® SILK (INCI name C9-12 ALKANE), VEGELIGHT® 1214LC,

- n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14), in particular sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL® 12-97 and PARAFOL® 14-97, and mixtures thereof.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises oils chosen from the group consisting of vegetable oils, C10-C26 alcohol oils, preferably hydroxylated ester oils, and mixtures thereof.

According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least one vegetable oil and at least one polar hydrocarbon oil, in particular a C10-C26 alcohol oil, in particular octyldodecanol, and an ester oil chosen from hydroxylated esters. and in particular polyglycerol-2 triisostearate.

The alcohol oils may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 1 to 20%, preferably from 5 to 15%, preferably from 8 to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The ester oils may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 5 to 45%, preferably from 15 to 40%, preferably from 20 to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The vegetable oils may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 1 to 20%, preferably from 5 to 15% and preferably from 7 to 13% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The total content of oil(s) in the composition of the invention may range, for example, from 30 to 90% by weight, in particular from 40 to 80%, preferably from 50 to 75% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. This oil(s) content takes into account the oils (or solvents) present in the gel of the non-silicone elastomer.

The total content of wax(es) in the composition of the invention may range, for example, from 5 to 20%, preferably from 8 to 18% by weight, in particular from 10 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The total content of butter(s) in the composition of the invention may range, for example, from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

OTHER INGREDIENTS

The composition may include other ingredients commonly used in cosmetic compositions. Such ingredients can be chosen from antioxidants, perfumes, preservatives, cosmetic active agents, fillers, pigments, and mixtures thereof.

The fillers and pigments can be treated with a hydrophobic agent to facilitate their dispersion in the oily or fatty phase.

Advantageously, the composition also comprises at least one filler.

Among the fillers, mention may in particular be made of mineral fillers, such as powders of alumina, silica, aluminum silicate, fumed silica, silica silylate, titanium dioxide or sericite.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least one filler, in particular a mineral filler, more preferably a silica, such as that marketed under the name Sunsphere H33. Advantageously, the content of filler(s), in particular silica in the composition of the invention will range from 0.1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The cosmetic active agents, preferably biosourced (eg: plant extracts) can for example be advantageously chosen from those having an action on the care of the skin and/or the lips, such as moisturizing agents.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises:

- a dry matter content of 0.5% to 5%, in particular from 1% to 3% and in particular from 2 to 3% by weight, of a crosslinked polyurethane elastomer (alone or as a mixture),

- a content of 0.4% to 0.8% by weight of lecithin,

- a content of 2 to 12% by weight of pigments, and advantageously in addition

- a total content of 1 to 5% by weight of filler(s), in particular mineral fillers, more preferably silica,

- relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a particular embodiment, the crosslinked polyurethane elastomer gel comprises at least one solvent and a single crosslinked polyurethane elastomer or a mixture of at least two crosslinked polyurethane elastomers, said elastomer or said mixture of elastomers being obtained from a prepolymer having at least two hydroxyl groups and a (poly)isocyanate.

According to a first preferred mode, the prepolymer is a reaction product of a diol and a dimer acid, in particular of a dilinoleic acid and propanediol or butanediol and the (poly)isocyanate is a trimer of 1.5 -pentamethylene diisocyanate.

According to another preferred embodiment, the composition comprises a mixture of two crosslinked polyurethane elastomers, said mixture being obtained from acid prepolymers dilinoleic/polyols and isophorone diisocyanate, the two polyols being butanediol and castor oil.

According to a particular embodiment, said composition further comprises:

- a total content of 50 to 70% by weight of oil(s), in particular chosen from the group consisting of vegetable oils, C10-C26 alcohol oils, preferably octyldodecanol, preferably hydroxylated ester oils of preferably polyglycerol-2 triisostearate, and mixtures thereof,

- a total content of 10 to 20% by weight of wax(es), in particular vegetable or animal waxes, preferably carnauba wax, sunflower wax, and/or beeswax and

- a total content of 3 to 15% by weight of pasty fatty substances chosen from the group consisting of (i) esters of polyol(s) and of fatty acid diacid dimer, or of one of its esters , (ii) hydrogenated castor oil esters, (iii) oligomeric glycerol esters, in particular diglycerol esters, and mixtures thereof, preferably esters of polyol(s) and fatty acid diacid dimer, or one of its esters.

The total oil(s) content includes the content of oils present in the cross-linked polyurethane elastomer gel.

Thus, according to a particular mode, the composition of the invention will comprise a content of biosourced compounds of at least 70%, 80%, 90%, 95%, 96%, 97%, 98%, 99%, 100% in weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

GALENIC

The composition according to the invention is a colored solid cosmetic composition for topical application to keratin materials, in particular the skin and/or the lips, preferably the lips. It is in particular a composition for caring for and/or making up the skin and/or the lips.

It may in particular be in the form of a lip stick, a lip balm, poured into a dish, preferably a balm or a stick.

COSMETIC PROCESS

The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for and/or making up the skin and/or the lips, comprising at least the application to the skin and/or the lips of a composition according to the invention.

The combination of a non-silicone elastomer and a phospholipid, in particular a lecithin, as described above, preferably biosourced, makes it possible to obtain a homogeneous composition in shade with a very high natural origin and having an appeal desired cosmetic: melting, comfort, and a gummed and homogeneous effect on keratin materials and in particular the lips.

Thus the cosmetic process of the invention is intended in particular to obtain a matte and comfortable deposit on the lips.

The invention will be illustrated by the following non-limiting examples. The percentages (%) are expressed as percentage by weight of raw material relative to the total weight of the composition, unless otherwise indicated.

EXAMPLES

Example 1: Selection of an agent to stabilize the shade The following composition was prepared:

[Table 1]

The composition is prepared according to the following protocol:

- the ingredients of phase A1 are weighed and melted in a water bath at 95° C., then homogenized under Rayneri for 15 minutes;

- the non-silicone elastomer (A2) is added and stirred for 15 minutes;

- the pigments (B), previously dispersed in polyglycerol-2 Triisostearate, are added and mixed for 15 minutes with Rayneri;

- the silica (C) is then dispersed, stirred for 5 minutes and passed through Turrax to obtain a homogeneous composition

- the composition is then hot poured into a tool to obtain a stick (e.g.: silicone teat, metal mold or cup) or directly into the final packaging (bottle).

The appearance of the composition is inhomogeneous: a flow is observed in the bulk and/or on the surface of the composition.

Different compositions identical to the one described above are prepared according to the same protocol, and 0.5% by weight of a wetting agent has been added (qsp on polyglycerol-2 Triisostearate). The wetting agent is pre-mixed in polyglycerol-2 Triisostearate and mixed with the phase B pigments (themselves pre-dispersed in polyglycerol-2 Triisostearate to form pigment dispersions).

Various wetting agents have thus been tested and the appearance of the compositions, in particular the homogeneity and stability of the color (absence of flow), is observed (in the bulk before shaping the composition and on the surface of the composition formatting).

The results are presented in Table 2 below, with the following legend:

'-' = inhomogeneous aspect, presence of flow, '+/-' = partially inhomogeneous aspect, slightly less important flow, '+++' = homogeneous aspect, absence of flow.

[Table 2]

These results therefore demonstrate that lecithin makes it possible to obtain, in a colored solid composition according to the invention comprising a non-silicone elastomer, a composition whose appearance (colour) is homogeneous and stable (absence of flux).

Example 2: Colored lip balm [Table 3]

The composition is prepared according to the following protocol:

- the non-silicone elastomer (A2) is added and stirred for 15 minutes;

- the lecithin is pre-mixed with polyglycerol-2 triisostearate, then mixed with the pigment dispersions (pigments of phase (B) themselves dispersed in polyglycerol-2 triisostearate); this mixture (lecithin and pigmentary dispersions) is then added and mixed for 15 minutes with Rayneri;

- the silica (C) is then dispersed, stirred for 5 minutes and passed through Turrax to obtain a homogeneous composition - the composition is then hot poured into a tool making it possible to obtain a stick (eg: silicone teat, metal mold or cup) or directly into the final packaging (bottle).

The composition obtained is in the form of a stick that is homogeneous in shade, with a gummy and slightly colored matte finish (bitten lips effect) on the lips.

Claims

1. Anhydrous solid cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: i) a crosslinked polyurethane elastomer gel comprising at least one solvent and a single crosslinked polyurethane elastomer or a mixture of at least two crosslinked polyurethane elastomers, said elastomer or said mixture of elastomers being obtained from a prepolymer having at least two hydroxyl groups and from a (poly)isocyanate, ii) a phospholipid, preferably a lecithin, and iii) one or more pigments.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the prepolymer having at least two hydroxyl groups is a copolymer of a carboxylic acid dimer or trimer, and of a polyol.

3. Composition according to claim 2, characterized in that the carboxylic acid is a dimer of C12-C18 fatty acids, in particular dilinoleic acid.

4. Composition according to claim 2, characterized in that the polyol is chosen from the group consisting of an aliphatic diol comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as 1,2 ethanediol, propanediols such as 1,2 propanediol, 1,3 propanediol, butanediol, pentanediol, caprylyl glycol, preferably propanediols and butanediol; a fatty acid triglyceride comprising at least two -OH groups, such as ricinoleic acid triglyceride or a vegetable source containing it, such as castor oil.

5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that (poly)isocyanate is a diisocyanate, in particular an aliphatic diisocyanate which may contain from 5 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably chosen from 1,6- hexamethylene diisocyanate (HDI), 1,5-pentamethylene diisocyanate (PDI) or isophorone diisocyanate (I PDI).

6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the prepolymer is a copolymer of dilinoleic acid and propanediol or butanediol and the (poly)isocyanate is a trimer of 1,5-pentamethylene diisocyanate.

7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it comprises a mixture of two crosslinked polyurethane elastomers, said mixture being obtained from prepolymers of dilinoleic acid/polyols and isophorone diisocyanate ( I PDI), the two polyols being butanediol and castor oil.

8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the polyurethane elastomer gel comprises at least one solvent chosen from the group consisting of triglycerides of plant origin such as glycerol trihexanoate, glycerol triheptanoate (triheptanoin), glycerol trioctanoate, coco-caprylate/caprate, C9-C22 alkanes such as undecane, tridecane; esters of natural origin and mixtures thereof, preferably glycerol triheptanoate (triheptanoin), coco-caprylate/caprate, C9-C22 alkanes, esters of natural origin and mixtures thereof.

9. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the total dry (active) matter content of crosslinked polyurethane elastomer(s) in the composition ranges from 0.5% to 5 % by weight, in particular from 1% to 3% and in particular from 2 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the pigments are chosen from inorganic pigments, organic pigments and mixtures thereof, in particular:

- one or more inorganic pigments chosen from titanium dioxide, iron oxides and mixtures thereof, preferably a mixture of titanium dioxide and iron oxides, and

11. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that the total content of pigment(s) ranges from 1 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that it comprises a fatty phase comprising one or more oil(s) and at least one fatty substance chosen from pasty fatty substances, waxes, butters and their mixtures.

13. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that it further comprises at least one filler, in particular a mineral filler, more preferably a silica.

14. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13, characterized in that it comprises at least 70%, 80%, 90%, 95% by weight of biosourced ingredients.

15. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14, characterized in that it is a stick for the lips, a balm for the lips, poured into a dish, preferably a balm or a stick.

16. Cosmetic process for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin and/or the lips and preferably the lips, characterized in that it comprises the application to the said keratin materials and preferably the lips of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 15.