WO2023275211A1

WO2023275211A1 - Composition comprising at least one particular oxidation dye, at least one shea-derived fatty substance and at least one alkaline agent

Info

Publication number: WO2023275211A1
Application number: PCT/EP2022/068003
Authority: WO
Inventors: Sarah BOULEMNAKHER; Marie Giafferi; Maria NIETO
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2021-06-30
Filing date: 2022-06-29
Publication date: 2023-01-05

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition comprising at least one particular oxidation coupler, optionally at least one oxidation base, at least one shea-derived fatty substance and at least one alkaline agent. The invention also relates to a process for dyeing keratin fibres, in particular the hair, using this composition. Another subject of the present invention is the use of the composition according to the invention for dyeing keratin fibres such as the hair.

Description

DESCRIPTION

COMPOSITION COMPRISING AT LEAST ONE PARTICULAR OXIDATION DYE, AT LEAST ONE SHEA-DERIVED FATTY SUBSTANCE AND AT LEAST

ONE ALKALINE AGENT

The present invention relates to a composition comprising at least one particular oxidation coupler, optionally at least one oxidation base, at least one shea-derived fatty substance and at least one alkaline agent.

The invention also relates to a process for dyeing keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres, notably the hair, using this composition.

Another subject of the present invention is the use of the composition according to the invention for dyeing keratin fibres such as the hair.

In the processes for dyeing keratin fibres, it is known practice to dye keratin fibres via various techniques using direct dyes for non-permanent dyeing, or dye precursors for permanent dyeing.

Non-permanent dyeing or direct dyeing consists in dyeing keratin fibres with dye compositions containing direct dyes. These dyes are coloured and colouring molecules that have affinity for keratin fibres. They are applied to the keratin fibres for a time necessary to obtain the desired colouring, and are then rinsed out.

Some of these dyes may be used under lightening conditions, which enables the production of colourings that are visible on dark hair.

It is also known practice to dye keratin fibres permanently via oxidation dyeing. This dyeing technique consists in applying to the keratin fibres a composition containing dye precursors such as oxidation bases and couplers. Under the action of an oxidizing agent, these precursors form one or more coloured substances in the hair.

Existing dyeing and/or lightening processes generally use cosmetic compositions comprising a certain number of ingredients for which the regulatory conditions are increasingly strict. It is thus necessary to develop compositions comprising alternative ingredients.

Consumers are notably in search of dyeing products that are more environmentally friendly, notably based on ingredients of natural origin, and which have good working qualities, are easy to use and give good dyeing properties.

Furthermore, the “natural” dyeing compositions currently available on the market do not make it possible to obtain colourings that are sufficiently persistent in the face of external agents such as light, perspiration, washing, or else rubbing. Moreover, they are not entirely satisfactory either in terms of the cosmetic properties of the hair.

In addition, dyeing compositions referred to as “natural” are not generally entirely satisfactory in terms of the cosmetic properties conferred on the keratin fibres. The performance of the colourings obtained with such compositions is also lower compared to the performance obtained with conventional dye compositions, notably in terms of colour build-up, power and chromaticity.

Such competitions can also damage the scalp.

Thus, there is a real need to provide a composition for dyeing keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, which is more environmentally friendly and which does not have the drawbacks mentioned above, i.e. which is capable of resulting in performance levels, notably in terms of colour build-up, strength and chromaticity, while at the same time having a low selectivity and a good fastness, and which is capable of resulting in good dyeing performance levels, even after a period of storage, while at the same time having good working qualities and resulting in good cosmetic properties, notably in terms of uniformity of the smooth feel.

A subject of the present invention is therefore a composition comprising:

- one or more oxidation dyes chosen from: one or more oxidation couplers chosen from 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline and 2-amino-5-ethylphenol, their addition salts, their solvates and/or the solvates of their salts and mixtures thereof, and one or more oxidation bases chosen from 2-methoxymethyl-para- phenylenediamine, 2-P-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2 - g - h y d ro x y p ro p y 1 p a r a - phenylenediamine, and their salts, their solvates and/or the solvates of their salts and mixtures thereof,

- one or more shea-derived fatty substances, preferably chosen from shea butter, shea olein, and mixtures thereof, in a total content which ranges from 0.5% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,

- one or more alkaline agents.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises:

- one or more oxidation couplers chosen from 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline and 2-amino-5-ethylphenol, their addition salts, their solvates and/or the solvates of their salts and mixtures thereof,

- optionally one or more oxidation bases,

- one or more alkaline agents,

- optionally one or more fatty substances other than fatty acids and other than shea- derived fatty substances and/or one or more surfactants, preferably chosen from non-ionic surfactants, anionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.

According to one variant, the composition according to the invention comprises: - one or more oxidation bases chosen from 2-methoxymethyl-para- phenylenediamine, 2-P-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2 - g - h y d ro x y p ro p y 1 p a ra - phenylenediamine, and their salts, their solvates and/or the solvates of their salts and mixtures thereof,

- optionally one or more oxidation couplers,

- one or more alkaline agents,

- optionally one or more fatty substances other than fatty acids and other than shea- derived fatty substances, and

- optionally one or more surfactants, preferably chosen from non-ionic surfactants, anionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.

According to this variant, preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises:

- one or more oxidation bases chosen from 2-methoxymethyl-para- phenylenediamine, 2-P-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2 - g - h y d ro x y p ro p y 1 p a ra - phenylenediamine, and their salts, their solvates and/or the solvates of their salts and mixtures thereof,

- one or more oxidation couplers,

- one or more alkaline agents,

In this variant, the oxidation coupler(s) may be chosen from all oxidation couplers as defined below.

The composition according to the invention can achieve the above objectives, notably in terms of colour build-up, colour strength, chromaticity, selectivity, fastness and working qualities. Moreover, it results in good cosmetic properties of the hair.

The composition according to the invention also makes it possible to produce varied colour shades, in particular varied vivid or light shades. The composition according to the invention also has the advantage of resulting in efficient lightening of keratin fibres while at the same time reducing unpleasant and offensive odours, in particular of ammonia, which may be given off when it is applied to said fibres.

The composition according to the invention also makes it possible to dye keratin fibres in a less soiling or cleaner manner.

Moreover, the composition according to the invention has good working qualities, such as a wetting effect, a creamy texture and an ease of application and distribution of the composition. The composition is also stable over time.

The composition of the invention also makes it possible to bring comfort to the scalp.

The composition according the invention also makes it possible to efficiently condition keratin fibres, notably by providing them with improved cosmetic properties, in particular by giving them a smoother and more uniform feel, and also suppleness.

The present invention also relates to a process for dyeing keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising the application of the composition as described above.

The dyeing process thus results in improved dyeing performance levels in terms of colour build-up, of dyeing strength and intensity, and also of chromaticity.

The present invention also relates to the use of the composition according to the invention for dyeing keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair.

Yet another subject of the present invention is constituted of a ready-to-use composition comprising the mixture of a composition as defined above and an oxidizing composition.

For the purposes of the invention, the term “ready-to-use composition” is intended to mean the composition intended to be applied in unmodified form to keratin fibres, i.e. it may be stored in unmodified form before use or may result from the extemporaneous mixing of two compositions.

The invention furthermore relates to a multicompartment device comprising at least a first compartment containing the composition according to the invention, and at least a second compartment containing one or more chemical oxidizing agents as described below.

Other subjects, features, aspects and advantages of the invention will become even more clearly apparent on reading the description and the example which follows.

In the text hereinbelow, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included in that range, notably in the expressions “between” and “ranging from ... to ...”. Moreover, the expression “at least one” used in the present description is equivalent to the expression “one or more”.

The term “oxidation dyes” is intended to mean dyes chosen from oxidation couplers and oxidation bases.

Oxidation couplers

The composition according to the invention can comprise one or more oxidation couplers.

According to one variant, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more oxidation couplers chosen from 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, hydroxyethyl- 3, 4-methylenedioxy aniline and 2-amino-5-ethylphenol, their addition salts, their solvates and/or the solvates of their salts, and mixtures thereof.

6-Hydroxybenzomorpholine is an oxidation coupler having chemical formula (I) below:

Hydroxy ethyl-3, 4-methylenedioxy aniline is an oxidation coupler having chemical formula (II) below:

2- Amino -5-ethylphenol is an oxidation coupler having chemical formula (III) below:

The oxidation coupler(s) of the invention can also be present in the composition according to the invention in the form of a salt, for example an addition salt, and/or in the form of a solvate, for example a hydrate, or even in the form of a salt solvate.

The addition salts, when they are present in the composition according to the invention, are chosen especially from the addition salts with an acid, such as the hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates, and the addition salts with a base such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonia, amines or alkanolamines.

Moreover, the solvates, when they are present in the composition according to the invention, represent more particularly the hydrates of said bases and/or the combination of said bases with a linear or branched Ci to C4 alcohol such as methanol, ethanol, isopropanol or n-propanol. Preferably, the solvates are hydrates.

Advantageously, the oxidation couplers chosen from 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline and 2-amino-5-ethylphenol, their addition salts, their solvates and/or the solvates of their salts and mixtures thereof are present in a total content ranging from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5%, even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more oxidation couplers chosen from 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, its addition salts, its solvates and/or the solvates of their salts, and mixtures thereof,

Additional oxidation couplers

The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more additional oxidation couplers, other than 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, hydroxy ethyl-3, 4- methylenedioxyaniline, 2-amino-5-ethylphenol, their addition salts, their solvates and/or the solvates of their salts.

Preferably, the additional couplers are chosen from meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalene -based couplers and heterocyclic couplers, and also their addition salts, their solvates, and/or solvates of their salts.

Examples of additional couplers that may be mentioned include 1,3- dihydroxybenzene, l,3-dihydroxy-2-methylbenzene, 4-chloro-l,3-dihydroxybenzene, 1- hydroxy-3-aminobenzene, l-methyl-2-hydroxy-4-P-hydroxyethylaminobenzene, 4-amino- 2-hydroxytoluene, 5-amino-6-chloro-2-methylphenol, 2,4-diamino- 1-(b- hydroxyethyloxy)benzene, 2-ami no-4-( l-hydiOxycthylami no)- 1 -mcthoxy benzene, 1,3- diaminobenzene, l,3-bis(2,4-diaminophenoxy)propane, 3-ureidoaniline, 3-ureido-l- dimethylaminobenzene, sesamol, l-P-hydroxyethylamino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene, a- naphthol, 2-methyl- 1-naphthol, 6-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxy-N- methylindole, 5-methoxy-6-hydroxyindole, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 2-amino-4- hydroxyethylaminoanisole, 3-amino-6-methoxy-2-methylaminopyridine, 3,5-diamino-2,6- dimethoxypyridine, l-N-(P-hydroxyethyl)amino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene, 2,6-bis(P- hydroxyethylamino)toluene, 6-hydroxyindoline, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, 2- chloro-3,5-diaminopyridine, 2-chloro-3,5-diamino-6-methoxypyridine, 2-chloro-3,5- diamino-6-methylpyridine, l-H-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, l-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 4-(3,5-diaminopyridin-2-yl)-l-(2-hydroxyethyl)-l-methylpiperazin-l-ium chloride, 2,6- dimethylpyrazolo-[l,5-b]-l, 2, 4-triazole, 2,4,6-trimethoxyaniline hydrochloride, 2,6- dimethyl-[3,2-c]-l, 2, 4-triazole, 6-methylpyrazolo[l,5-a]benzimidazole and 2,6- diaminopyrazine, their addition salts, their salts and/or the solvates of their salts, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the additional coupler(s) used in the invention are chosen from 1,3- dihydroxybenzene, l,3-dihydroxy-2-methylbenzene, 4-chloro-l,3-dihydroxybenzene, 1- hydroxy-3-aminobenzene, l-methyl-2-hydroxy-4-P-hydroxyethylaminobenzene, 4-amino- 2-hydroxytoluene, 5-amino-6-chloro-2-methylphenol, 2,4-diamino- 1-(b- hydroxyethyloxy)benzene, a-naphthol, 6-hydroxyindole, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 3- amino-6-methoxy-2-methylaminopyridine, 2-amino-4-hydroxyethylaminoanisole, their addition salts, their solvates and/or the solvates of their salts, and mixtures thereof.

Even more preferentially, the additional coupler(s) used in the invention are chosen from 3-amino-6-methoxy-2-methylaminopyridine, 2,4-diamino- 1-(b- hydroxyethyloxy)benzene, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 5-amino-6-chloro-2- methylphenol, l-methyl-2-hydroxy-4^-hydroxyethylaminobenzene, 2-amino-4- hydroxyethylaminoanisole, and l-hydroxy-3-aminobenzene, their addition salts, their solvates and/or the solvates of their salts, and mixtures thereof.

In general, the addition salts of the additional couplers that may be used in the context of the invention are in particular chosen from addition salts with an acid, such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates, and the addition salts with a base such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonia, amines or alkanolamines.

In one particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of oxidation couplers chosen from resorcinol, 2-methylresorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, their addition salts, their solvates and the solvates of the salts thereof.

Preferably, when it (they) is (are) present, the total content of the additional oxidation couplers, their salts, their solvates and solvates of their salts, and mixtures thereof, ranges from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5%, even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition. Advantageously, the oxidation coupler(s) are present in a total content ranging from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5%, even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

Oxidation bases

The composition optionally comprises one or more oxidation bases.

Preferably, the composition comprises one or more oxidation bases.

The oxidation bases may be present in the form of salts, solvates and/or solvates of salts.

The addition salts of the oxidation bases present in the composition according to the invention are chosen notably from the addition salts with an acid, such as the hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, methanesulfonates, phosphates and acetates, and the addition salts with a base such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, aqueous ammonia, amines or alkanolamines.

Moreover, the solvates of the oxidation bases more particularly represent the hydrates of said oxidation bases and/or the combination of said oxidation bases with a linear or branched Ci to C4 alcohol such as methanol, ethanol, isopropanol or n-propanol. Preferably, the solvates are hydrates.

The oxidation bases may be chosen from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols and heterocyclic bases and their addition salts, their solvates and/or solvates of their salts.

Among the para-phenylenediamines, examples that may be mentioned include para-phenylenediamine, para-tolylenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3- dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para- phenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-para- phenylenediamine, N,N -diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N -dipropyl-para- phenylenediamine, 4-amino-N,N-diethyl-3-methylaniline, N,N-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)-para- phenylenediamine, 4-N,N-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylaniline, 4-N,N-bis(P- hydroxyethyl)amino-2-chloroaniline, 2-P-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2- methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-Y-hydroxypropyl-para-phenylenediamine; 2- fluoro-para-phenylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, N - ( b - h y d o xypropyl)- para-phenylenediamine, 2-hydroxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-3- methyl-para-phenylenediamine, N-ethyl-N-(P-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N- (P,Y-dihydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-(4’-aminophenyl)-para- phenylenediamine, N -phenyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-P-hydroxyethyloxy-para- phenylenediamine, 2-P-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, N-(b- methoxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 4-aminophenylpyrrolidine, 2-thienyl-para- phenylenediamine, 2-P-hydroxycthy lami no-5 -ami notolucnc and 3-hydroxy-l-(4’- aminophenyl)pyrrolidine, and their addition salts, their solvates, and solvates of the salts thereof.

Among the para-phenylenediamines mentioned above, para-phenylenediamine, para-tolylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2- b - h y dro x y ct h y 1 - para- phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-y-hydroxypropyl-para- phenylenediamine, 2-P-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para- phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para- phenylenediamine, N,N-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-chloro-para- phenylenediamine and 2-P-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, and their addition salts, their solvates, and solvates of the salts thereof are particularly preferred.

Among the bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, examples that may be mentioned include N,N’-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)-N,N’-bis(4’-aminophenyl)-l,3-diaminopropanol, N,N’-bis(P- hydroxyethyl)-N,N’ -bis(4’ -aminophenyl)ethylenediamine, N,N’ -bis(4- aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N’-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)-N,N’-bis(4- aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N’ -bis(4- methylaminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N’ -bis(ethyl)-N,N’ -bis(4’ -amino-3 ’ - methylphenyl)ethylenediamine and l,8-bis(2,5-diaminophenoxy)-3,6-dioxaoctane, and their addition salts, their solvates, and solvates of the salts thereof.

Among the para-aminophenols, examples that may be mentioned include para- aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 4-amino-3-chlorophenol, 4-amino-3-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2- hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2-(P-hydroxyethylaminomethyl)phenol and 4-amino-2-fluorophenol, and their addition salts, their solvates, and solvates of the salts thereof.

Among the ortho-aminophenols, examples that may be mentioned include 2- aminophenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol, 2-amino-6-methylphenol and 5-acetamido-2- aminophenol, and their addition salts, their solvates and solvates of the salts thereof.

Among the heterocyclic bases, examples that may be mentioned include pyridine derivatives, pyrimidine derivatives and pyrazole derivatives.

Among the pyridine derivatives, mention may be made of the compounds described, for example, in patents GB 1 026 978 and GB 1 153 196, such as 2,5- diaminopyridine, 2-(4-methoxyphenyl)amino-3-aminopyridine, 3,4-diaminopyridine, and their addition salts, their solvates, and solvates of the salts thereof.

Other pyridine oxidation bases that are useful in the present invention are the 3- aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine oxidation bases or their addition salts described, for example, in patent application FR 2801 308. Examples that may be mentioned include pyrazolo[l,5- a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-acetylaminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-(morpholin-4- yl)pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine-2-carboxylic acid, 2- methoxypyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, (3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)methanol, 2- (3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)ethanol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)ethanol, (3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-2-yl)methanol, 3,6-diaminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine, 3,4- diaminopyrazolo [ 1 ,5-a]pyridine, pyrazolo [1,5- a]pyridine-3 ,7 -diamine, 7 -(morpholin-4- yl)pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine-3, 5-diamine, 5-(morpholin-4- yl)pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)(2- hydroxyethyl)amino] ethanol, 2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)(2- hydroxyethyl)amino] ethanol, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-5-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5- a]pyridin-4-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-6-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-7-ol and 2-(3-amino-pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-2-yl)oxyethanol, and their addition salts, their solvates, and solvates of the salts thereof.

Among the pyrimidine derivatives, mention may be made of the compounds described, for example, in patents DE 2359399, JP 88-169571, JP 05-63124 and EP 0770375 or patent application WO 96/15765, such as 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4- hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2, 4-dihydroxy - 5,6-diaminopyrimidine, 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine and their addition salts, and the tautomeric forms thereof, when a tautomeric equilibrium exists.

Among the pyrazole derivatives that may be mentioned are the compounds described in patents DE 3843892 and DE 4133957 and patent applications WO 94/08969, WO 94/08970, FR-A-2733 749 and DE 19543 988, such as 4,5-diamino-l-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino- l-(P-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole, 3,4-diaminopyrazole, 4,5-diamino- 1-(4’- chlorobenzyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino- 1 ,3-dimethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl- 1- phenylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino- 1 -methyl-3 -phenylpyrazole, 4-amino- 1 ,3 -dimethyl- 5- hydrazinopyrazole, 1 -benzyl-4, 5-diamino-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-tert-butyl-l- methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino- l-tert-butyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino- 1-(b- hydroxyethyl)-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino- 1 -ethyl-3 -methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino- 1- ethyl-3-(4’-methoxyphenyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino- 1 -ethyl-3 -hydroxymethylpyrazole, 4,5- diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-l-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-l- isopropylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-l-isopropylpyrazole, 4-amino-5-(2’- aminoethyl)amino-l,3-dimethylpyrazole, 3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, l-methyl-3,4,5- triaminopyrazole, 3,5-diamino-l-methyl-4-methylaminopyrazole and 3,5-diamino-4-(P- hydroxyethyl)amino- 1 -methylpyrazole, and their addition salts, their solvates, and solvates of the salts thereof. Use may also be made of 4,5-diamino- l-(P-methoxyethyl)pyrazole.

Use will preferably be made of a 4,5-diaminopyrazole and even more preferentially of 4 , 5 -di a m i no - 1 - (b - h y dro x yet h y 1 ) py razo 1 c and/or one of its salts, solvates or solvates of the salts thereof. Pyrazole derivatives that may also be mentioned include diamino-N,N- dihydropyrazolopyrazolones and notably those described in application FR-A-2 886 136, such as the following compounds and their addition salts: 2, 3-diamino-6, 7-dihydro- 1H,5H- pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2-amino-3-ethylamino-6, 7-dihydro- lH,5H-pyrazolo[l, 2- a]pyrazol-l-one, 2-amino-3-isopropylamino-6, 7-dihydro- lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l- one, 2-amino-3-(pyrrolidin-l-yl)-6, 7-dihydro- lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 4,5- diamino- 1 ,2-dimethyl- 1 ,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino- 1 ,2-diethyl- 1 ,2- dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino- 1 ,2-di(2-hydroxyethyl)- 1 ,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 2- amino-3-(2-hydroxyethyl)amino-6, 7-dihydro- lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2- amino-3-dimethylamino-6, 7-dihydro- lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2,3-diamino- 5,6,7,8-tetrahydro-lH,6H-pyridazino[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 4-amino- l,2-diethyl-5-

(pyrrolidin-l-yl)-l,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4-amino-5-(3-dimethylaminopyrrolidin-l-yl)- 1, 2-diethyl- 1,2-dihy drop yrazol-3 -one or 2, 3-diamino-6-hydroxy-6, 7-dihydro- 1H,5H- pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, the salts thereof, their solvates and/or solvates of the salts thereof.

Use will preferably be made of 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2- a]pyrazol-l-one and/or one of its salts, solvates or solvates of the salts thereof.

Heterocyclic bases that will preferentially be used include 4,5-diamino- 1-(b- hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and/or 2, 3-diamino-6, 7-dihydro- lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l- one and/or 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-2-yl)oxyethanol and/or one of their salts, solvates or solvates of the salts thereof.

Preferably, the oxidation bases are chosen from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and/or the solvates of their salts and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the oxidation bases are chosen from 2-methoxymethyl-para- phenylenediamine, 2-P-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2 - g - h y d ro x y p ro p y 1 p a ra - phenylenediamine, their salts, their solvates and/or the solvates of their salts.

Advantageously, the oxidation base(s) are present in a total content ranging from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5%, even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

In one particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of oxidation bases chosen from para-phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, their addition salts, their solvates and the solvates of their salts.

Shea-derived fatty substance The composition according to the present invention comprises one or more shea- derived fatty substances, preferably chosen from shea butter, shea olein, and mixtures thereof.

In a known manner, shea butter is extracted from the fruit (also called “kernels” or “nuts”) of the Butyrospemum parkii tree. Each fruit contains between 45% and 55% fatty substance, which is generally extracted and refined.

Shea butter contains fatty acid triglycerides.

The fatty acid distribution of shea butter is variable, notably depending on the geographical origin of the nuts, the total percentage of stearic and oleic acids being very greatly predominant and generally greater than 80% by weight relative to the total weight of fatty acids.

Shea olein is obtained from shea butter.

Shea olein is liquid at ambient temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa).

In a known manner, shea olein results from the continuous or batchwise fractionation of shea butter using an organic solvent such as alkanes, ketones, alcohols or azeotropic binary and ternary mixtures thereof.

The fatty acid distribution of shea olein is variable, notably depending on the geographical origin of the nuts, the percentage of oleic acid being very greatly predominant and generally greater than 50% by weight relative to the total weight of fatty acids.

Advantageously, the total content of shea-derived fatty substances ranges from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 2% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Advantageously, the total content of fatty substance(s) chosen from shea butter, shea olein, and mixtures thereof ranges from 1% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 2% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition

In one particular embodiment, the total content of shea butter ranges from 1% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 2% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In another particular embodiment, the total content of shea olein ranges from 1% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 2% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Alkaline agent

The composition according to the present invention comprises one or more alkaline agent(s).

Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises one or more alkaline agents chosen from mineral, organic or hybrid alkaline agent(s). For the purposes of the present invention, the terms "alkaline agent" and "basifying agent" are used interchangeably.

The mineral basifying agent(s) are preferably chosen from aqueous ammonia, alkali metal carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium (hydrogen)carbonate and potassium (hydrogen)carbonate, alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal phosphates such as sodium phosphates or potassium phosphates, sodium or potassium hydroxides, alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal silicates or metasilicates such as sodium metasilicate and mixtures thereof.

The organic basifying agent(s) is/are preferably chosen from alkanolamines, amino acids, organic amines other than alkanolamines, oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, 1,3-diaminopropane, spermine or spermidine and mixtures thereof.

The term “alkanolamine” means an organic amine comprising a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, and one or more linear or branched Ci-Cs alkyl groups bearing one or more hydroxyl radicals.

Organic amines chosen from alkanolamines such as monoalkanolamines, dialkanolamines or trialkanolamines comprising one to three identical or different C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl radicals are in particular suitable for performing the invention.

In particular, the alkanolamine(s) are chosen from monoethanolamine (MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N- dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-l -propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2- methyl- 1 ,3-propanediol, 3-amino- 1 ,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino- 1 ,2-propanediol, tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane and mixtures thereof.

Advantageously, the amino acids are basic amino acids comprising an additional amine function. Such basic amino acids are preferably chosen from histidine, lysine, arginine, ornithine and citrulline.

The organic amine may also be chosen from organic amines of heterocyclic type. Besides histidine that has already been mentioned in the amino acids, mention may in particular be made of pyridine, piperidine, imidazole, triazole, tetrazole and benzimidazole. The organic amine may also be chosen from amino acid dipeptides. As amino acid dipeptides that may be used in the present invention, mention may notably be made of camosine, anserine and balenine. The organic amine may also be chosen from compounds including a guanidine function. As amines of this type other than arginine that may be used in the present invention, mention may notably be made of creatine, creatinine, 1,1- dimethylguanidine, 1,1-diethylguanidine, glycocy amine, metformin, agmatine, n- amidoalanine, 3-guanidinopropionic acid, 4-guanidinobutyric acid and 2- ([amino(imino)methyl]amino)ethane- 1 -sulfonic acid.

As hybrid compounds, use may be made in particular of guanidine carbonate or monoethanolamine hydrochloride. The alkaline agent(s) that may be used according to the invention is/are preferably chosen from alkanolamines such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine; aqueous ammonia, carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium (hydrogen)carbonate and potassium (hydrogen)carbonate, alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal silicates or metasilicates such as sodium metasilicate and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from aqueous ammonia and alkanolamines, better still from alkanolamines, even better still the alkaline agent is monoethanolamine.

Preferably, the alkaline agent(s) are organic.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of aqueous ammonia.

Advantageously, the total content of the alkaline agent(s), when they are present, preferably ranges from 0.1% to 40% by weight,

In one preferred embodiment, the total content of the alkaline agent(s) is preferably greater than or equal to 5% by weight, preferentially ranges from 5% to 40% by weight, more preferentially from 6% to 30% by weight, more preferentially still from 8% to 20% by weight, better still from 10% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to one embodiment, the pH of the composition is between 8 and 13, preferably between 9 and 12.

The pH of the composition may be adjusted to the desired value by means of acidic or alkaline agent(s) commonly used in the dyeing of keratin fibres, such as those described hereinabove, or alternatively using buffer systems known to those skilled in the art.

The composition according to the invention can optionally also comprise one or more fatty substances other than fatty acids and other than shea-derived fatty substances and/or one or more surfactants, preferably chosen from non-ionic surfactants, anionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.

Fatty substances other than fatty acids and the shea-derived fatty substances

The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more fatty substances other than fatty acids and shea-derived fatty substances.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more fatty substances other than fatty acids and shea-derived fatty substances.

The term “fatty substance” means an organic compound that is insoluble in water at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (1.013xl0⁵ Pa) (solubility of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight and even more preferentially less than 0.1% by weight). They bear in their structure at least one hydrocarbon-based chain including at least 6 carbon atoms and/or a sequence of at least two siloxane groups. In addition, the fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for instance chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), liquid petroleum jelly or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

In other words, the term “fatty substances” means an organic compound that is insoluble in water at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (1.013xl0⁵ Pa), in particular with a solubility of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight and even more preferentially less than 0.1% by weight.

The fatty substances are different from fatty acids.

In other words, the fatty substances are particularly different from fatty acids in free form, for instance fatty acids that are not in the form of esters (or fatty acids that are not esterified).

Preferably, the fatty substances do not comprise any carboxylic acid functions -COOH or any carboxylates functions -COO .

The fatty substances that may be used in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated.

In particular, the fatty substances are different from nonionic surfactants.

Preferably, the fatty substances according to the invention are neither (poly )oxy alky lenated or (poly)glycerolated and are different from nonionic surfactants.

Preferably, the fatty substances that may be used according to the invention are non-silicone fatty substances.

The term “non-silicone fatty substance” refers to a fatty substance not containing any Si-0 bonds and the term “silicone fatty substance” refers to a fatty substance containing at least one Si-0 bond.

Preferably, the fatty substances are non-silicone fatty substances different from nonionic surfactants and are in particular neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated.

The fatty substances that are useful according to the invention may be liquid fatty substances (or oils) and/or solid fatty substances. A liquid fatty substance is understood to be a fatty substance having a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013xl0⁵ Pa). A solid fatty substance is understood to be a fatty substance having a melting point of greater than 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013xl0⁵ Pa).

For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed on thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in the standard ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA Instruments. In the present application, all the melting points are determined at atmospheric pressure (1.013xl0⁵ Pa).

More particularly, the liquid fatty substance(s) according to the invention may be chosen from Ce to C_\e liquid hydrocarbons, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin, oils of triglyceride type of plant or synthetic origin, fluoro oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of fatty acid and/or of fatty alcohol other than triglycerides, and mixtures thereof.

It is recalled that the fatty alcohols and esters more particularly contain at least one saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based group, comprising 6 to 40 and better still from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally substituted, in particular, with one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

As regards the C6 to C16 liquid hydrocarbons, these may be linear, branched, or optionally cyclic, and are preferably chosen from alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane or isoparaffins, such as isohexadecane or isodecane, and mixtures thereof.

The liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms may be linear or branched, and of mineral or synthetic origin, and are preferably chosen from liquid paraffins or liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®, and mixtures thereof.

A hydrocarbon-based oil of animal origin that may be mentioned is perhydrosqualene.

The triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from liquid fatty acid triglycerides including from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, maize oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company Stearinerie Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, and jojoba oil, and mixtures thereof.

As regards the fluoro oils, they may be chosen from perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-l,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names Flutec® PCI and Flutec® PC3 by the company BNFF Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-l,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names PF 5050® and PF 5060® by the company 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name Foralkyl® by the company Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives such as 4- trifluoromethylperfluoromorpholine sold under the name PF 5052® by the company 3M. The liquid fatty alcohols that are suitable for use in the invention are more particularly chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alcohols, preferably unsaturated or branched alcohols, comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated. Examples that may be mentioned include octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, ricinoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol and linoleyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, oleyl alcohol will be used.

As regards the liquid esters of fatty acids and/or of fatty alcohols other than the triglycerides mentioned above, mention may be made notably of esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear Ci to C26 or branched C3 to C26 aliphatic monoacids or poly acids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear Ci to C26 or branched C3 to C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total carbon number of the esters being greater than or equal to 6 and more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.

Preferably, for the esters of monoalcohols, at least one from among the alcohol and the acid is branched.

Among the monoesters, mention may be made of dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; octyl isononanoate; 2- ethylhexyl isononanoate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate, isobutyl stearate; 2-hexyldecyl laurate, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, among the monoesters of monoacids and of monoalcohols, use will be made of ethyl palmitate and isopropyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.

Esters of C4 to C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of Ci to C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C2 to C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.

Mention may notably be made of: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and polyethylene glycol distearates, and mixtures thereof.

The composition may also comprise, as fatty ester, sugar esters and diesters of Ce to C₃₀, preferably C₁₂ to C₂₂, fatty acids. It is recalled that the term “sugar” refers to oxygen bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds bearing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which include at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides other than the anionic polysaccharides as described below.

Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, notably alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance methylglucose.

The sugar esters of fatty acids may be notably chosen from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Ce to C₃₀ and preferably C₁₂ to C₂₂ fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

The esters may also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates, arachidonates or mixtures thereof notably such as the mixed oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate and palmito- stearate esters

More particularly, use is made of monoesters and diesters and notably sucrose, glucose or methylglucose mono- or di-oleates, -stearates, -behenates, -oleopalmitates, - linoleates, -linolenates and -oleostearates, and mixtures thereof.

An example that may be mentioned is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

Preferably, use will be made of a liquid ester of a monoacid and of a monoalcohol.

According to one embodiment, fatty substances that are useful according to the invention are chosen from liquid fatty substances, preferably from liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, plant oils other than shea oils, liquid fatty alcohols and liquid fatty esters, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from liquid fatty alcohols.

Preferentially, the liquid fatty substance(s) are chosen from liquid fatty alcohols, in particular oleyl alcohol.

The solid fatty substances preferably have a viscosity of greater than 2 Pa.s, measured at 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s ¹.

The solid fatty substance(s) is/are preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and/or of fatty alcohols, waxes, ceramides and mixtures thereof. The term “fatty alcohol” means a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and comprising at least one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated.

The solid fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated, and linear or branched, and include from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, the solid fatty alcohols have the structure R-OH with R denoting a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40, preferentially from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, or even from 12 to 24 atoms and even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

The solid fatty alcohols that may be used are preferably chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, preferably linear and saturated, (mono)alcohols including from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 and even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

The solid fatty alcohols that may be used may be chosen, alone or as a mixture, from: myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecanol); arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol); ceryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol); montanyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol); myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).

Preferentially, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol. Particularly preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol.

The solid esters of a fatty acid and/or of a fatty alcohol that may be used are preferably chosen from esters resulting from a C9-C26 carboxylic fatty acid and/or from a C9-C26 fatty alcohol.

Preferably, these solid fatty esters are esters of a linear or branched, saturated carboxylic acid including at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and of a linear or branched, saturated monoalcohol, including at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The saturated carboxylic acids may optionally be hydroxylated, and are preferably monocarboxylic acids.

Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C2-C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxylated alcohols may also be used.

Mention may notably be made of octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, octyl pelargonate, cetyl myristate, myristyl myristate, stearyl myristate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, dioctyl maleate, octyl palmitate, myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the solid esters of a fatty acid and/or of a fatty alcohol are chosen from C9-C26 alkyl palmitates, notably myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate or stearyl palmitate; C9- C26 alkyl myristates, such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyl myristate; C9- C26 alkyl stearates, in particular myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate and stearyl stearate; and mixtures thereof.

For the purposes of the present invention, a wax is a lipophilic compound, which is solid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, with a reversible solid/liquid change of state, having a melting point greater than about 40°C, which may be up to 200°C, and having in the solid state anisotropic crystal organization. In general, the size of the wax crystals is such that the crystals diffract and/or scatter light, giving the composition that comprises them a more or less opaque cloudy appearance. By bringing the wax to its melting point, it is possible to make it miscible with oils and to form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but on returning the temperature of the mixture to ambient temperature, recrystallization of the wax, which is microscopically and macroscopically detectable (opalescence), is obtained.

In particular, the waxes that are suitable for use in the invention may be chosen from waxes of animal, plant or mineral origin, non-silicone synthetic waxes, and mixtures thereof.

Mention may be made notably of hydrocarbon-based waxes, for instance beeswax, notably of organic origin, lanolin wax and Chinese insect waxes; rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japan wax and sumac wax; montan wax, orange wax and lemon wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, the waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, and also esters thereof.

Mention may also be made of C20 to Ceo microcrystalline waxes, such as Microwax

HW.

Mention may also be made of the MW 500 polyethylene wax sold under the reference Permalen 50-L polyethylene.

Mention may also be made of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils containing linear or branched Cs to C32 fatty chains. Among these waxes mention may notably be made of isomerized jojoba oil such as the trans-isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, notably the product manufactured or sold by the company Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut kernel oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil and bis(l,l,l-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate, notably the product sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company Heterene. The waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax Castor 16L64® and 22L73® by the company Sophim, may also be used.

A wax that may also be used is a C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group containing from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture. Such a wax is notably sold under the names Kester Wax K 82 P®, Hydroxypolyester K 82 P® and Kester Wax K 80 P® by the company Koster Keunen.

It is also possible to use microwaxes in the compositions of the invention; mention may notably be made of carnauba microwaxes, such as the product sold under the name MicroCare 350® by the company Micro Powders, synthetic-wax microwaxes, such as the product sold under the name MicroEase 114S® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes constituted of a mixture of carnauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as the products sold under the names Micro Care 300® and 310® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes constituted of a mixture of carnauba wax and of synthetic wax, such as the product sold under the name Micro Care 325® by the company Micro Powders, polyethylene microwaxes, such as the products sold under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by the company Micro Powders, and polytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes, such as the products sold under the names Microslip 519® and 519 L® by the company Micro Powders.

The waxes are preferably chosen from mineral waxes, for instance paraffin, petroleum jelly, lignite or ozokerite wax; plant waxes, for instance cocoa butter or cork fibre or sugar cane waxes, olive tree wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, ouricury wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, esparto grass wax, or absolute waxes of flowers, such as the essential wax of blackcurrant blossom sold by the company Bertin (France); waxes of animal origin, for instance beeswaxes or modified beeswaxes (cera bellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; microcrystalline waxes; and mixtures thereof.

The ceramides, or ceramide analogues such as glycoceramides, that may be used in the compositions according to the invention, are known; mention may be made in particular of ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the Dawning classification.

The ceramides or analogues thereof that may be used preferably correspond to the following formula: R³CH(OH)CH(CH₂OR²)(NHCOR¹), in which:

R¹ denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group, derived from C14-C30 fatty acids, it being possible for this group to be substituted with a hydroxyl group in the alpha position, or a hydroxyl group in the omega position esterified with a saturated or unsaturated C16-C30 fatty acid;

R² denotes a hydrogen atom, a (glycosyl)n group, a (galactosyl)m group or a sulfogalactosyl group, in which n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8; R³ denotes a C15-C26 hydrocarbon-based group, saturated or unsaturated in the alpha position, it being possible for this group to be substituted with one or more C1-C14 alkyl groups; it being understood that in the case of natural ceramides or glycoceramides, R³ may also denote a C15-C26 alpha-hydroxyalkyl group, the hydroxyl group being optionally esterified with a C16-C30 alpha-hydroxy acid.

The ceramides that are more particularly preferred are the compounds for which R¹ denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from C16-C22 fatty acids; R² denotes a hydrogen atom and R³ denotes a saturated linear C15 group.

Preferentially, use is made of ceramides for which R¹ denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from C14-C30 fatty acids; R² denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl group; and R³ denotes a -CH=CH-(CH2)i2-CH3 group.

Use may also be made of the compounds for which R¹ denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical derived from C12-C22 fatty acids; R² denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl radical; and R³ denotes a saturated or unsaturated C12-C22 hydrocarbon- based radical and preferably a -CH=CH-(CH2)i2-CH3 group.

As compounds that are particularly preferred, mention may also be made of 2-N- linoleoylaminooctadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-oleoylaminooctadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N- palmitoylaminooctadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N- behenoylaminooctadecane- 1 ,3-diol; 2-N-[2-hydroxypalmitoyl]aminooctadecane- 1 ,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane-l,3,4-triol and in particular N-stearoylphytosphingosine, 2- N-palmitoylaminohexadecane- 1 ,3-diol, N-linoleoyldihydrosphingosine, N- oleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-palmitoyldihydrosphingosine, N- stearoyldihydrosphingosine, and N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine, N-docosanoyl-N-methyl- D-glucamine, cetylic acid N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N-(3-cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl)amide and bis(N-hydroxyethyl-N-cetyl)malonamide; and mixtures thereof. N- Oleoyldihydrosphingosine will preferably be used.

The solid fatty substances other than fatty acids and shea-derived fatty substances are preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols, in particular from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol.

Use may also be made of butters, other than shea butters.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “butter” (also referred to as a “pasty fatty substance”) means a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid/liquid change of state, comprising at a temperature of 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. Preferably, the butter(s) according to the invention have a melting start temperature of more than 25 °C and a melting end temperature of less than 60°C.

Preferably, the particular butter(s) are of plant origin, such as those described in Ullmann’s Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry (“Fats and Fatty Oils”, A. Thomas, published online: JUN 15, 2000, DOI: 10.1002/14356007.al0_173, point 13.2.2.2. Shea Butter, Borneo Tallow, and Related Fats (Vegetable Butters)).

Mention may be made more particularly of galam butter, ( Butyrospermum parkii ), Borneo butter or fat or tengkawang tallow ( Shorea stenoptera), shorea butter, illipe butter, madhuca butter or Bassia madhuca longifolia butter, mowrah butter ( Madhuca latifolia ), katiau butter ( Madhuca mottleyana), phulwara butter (M. butyracea ), mango butter ( Mangifera indica), murumuru butter ( Astrocaryum murumuru), kokum butter ( Garcinia indica ), ucuuba butter ( Virola sebifera), tucuma butter, painya butter (Kpangnan) ( Pentadesma butyracea), coffee butter ( Coffea arabicd), apricot butter ( Prunus armeniaca), macadamia butter ( Macadamia ternifolia), grapeseed butter iVilis vinifera), avocado butter ( Persea gratissima), olive butter ( Olea europaea), sweet almond butter ( Prunus amygdalus dulcis), cocoa butter and sunflower butter.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one liquid fatty substance other than fatty acids and shea-derived fatty substances, preferentially chosen from liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, plant oils, liquid fatty alcohols and liquid fatty esters, and mixtures thereof.

Preferentially, the liquid fatty substance(s) is/are chosen from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, in particular liquid petroleum jelly and liquid fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

According to another preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more solid fatty substances other than fatty acids and shea- derived fatty substances, preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof, and one or more liquid fatty substances other than fatty acids and shea-derived fatty substances, preferably chosen from liquid fatty alcohols, and liquid fatty esters, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from liquid fatty alcohols.

When the composition according to the invention comprises one or more fatty substances other than fatty acids and shea-derived fatty substances, the total content of said fatty substance(s) preferably ranges from 5% to 40% by weight, more preferentially from 8% to 30% by weight and better still from 10% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In one particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more fatty substances other than fatty acids and shea-derived fatty substances, the total content of said fatty substance(s) preferably ranging from 5% to 40% by weight, more preferentially from 8% to 30% by weight and better still from 10% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Surfactants The composition according to the present invention may comprise one or more surfactants. Said surfactants may be chosen from anionic surfactants, non-ionic surfactants and cationic surfactants and/or mixtures thereof, preferably from anionic surfactants and non-ionic surfactants and/or mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises one or more surfactants.

The term "anionic surfactant" is understood to mean a surfactant including, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups. These anionic groups are preferably chosen from CO2H, COT, SO3H, S03-, OSO3H, OSO3-, H2PO3, HPO³ , PO3²-, H2PO2, HPO2-, PO2²-, POH and PO- groups.

As examples of anionic surfactants that may be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, alkyl sulfonates, alkylamide sulfonates, alkylaryl sulfonates, a-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, acyl sarcosinates, acyl glutamates, alkyl sulfosuccinamates, acyl isethionates and N-(C1- C4)alkyl N-acyl taurates, salts of alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, acyl lactylates, salts of D-galactoside uronic acids, salts of alkyl ether carboxylic acids, salts of alkylaryl ether carboxylic acids, salts of alkylamido ether carboxylic acids; fatty acid salts, and the corresponding non-salified forms of all these compounds; the alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds (unless specified otherwise) generally including from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group generally denoting a phenyl group.

These compounds may be oxyethylenated and then preferably include from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units.

The salts of C₆-C₂₄ alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids may be chosen from C₆-C₂₄ alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C₆-C₂₄ alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and C₆-C₂₄ alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates.

When the anionic surfactant(s) are in salt form, they may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt and preferably the sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts or alkaline-earth metal salts such as the magnesium salt.

Examples of amino alcohol salts that may notably be mentioned include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-l -propanol salts, 2- amino-2-methyl- 1,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.

Alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used. The anionic surfactants that may be present may be mild anionic surfactants, i.e. anionic surfactants not bearing a sulfate function.

As regards the mild anionic surfactants, mention may be made in particular of the following compounds and salts thereof, and also mixtures thereof: polyoxyalkylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated alkylaryl ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated alkylamido ether carboxylic acids, in particular those including 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, alkyl D-galactoside uronic acids, acyl sarcosinates, acyl glutamates and alky lpoly glycoside carboxylic esters.

Use may be made most particularly of polyoxyalkylenated carboxylic acid alkyl ethers, for instance carboxylic acid lauryl ether (4.5 OE) sold, for example, under the name Akypo RLM 45 CA from Kao.

The anionic surfactants that may be present may be carboxylic acids comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, also known as fatty acids, optionally in salified form.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “fatty acid” means an acid comprising at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based chain, such as an alkyl or alkenyl chain, including at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and better still from 10 to 22 carbon atoms.

The carboxylic acids comprising at least 6 carbon atoms (or fatty acids) according to the invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated, nor (poly)glycerolated; in particular, they are neither (poly)oxyethylenated, nor (poly)oxypropylenated.

They preferably have the structure R-COOH in which R denotes a linear or branched C7-C29, preferably C9-C23 and better still C9-C17 alkyl or alkenyl group.

Preferably, the fatty acid according to the invention is chosen from linear fatty acids, better still from unsaturated linear C10-C22 and notably Cio-Cis fatty acids (R is a linear C9-C23 or even C9-C17 alkenyl).

Mention may be made notably of lauric acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, undecylenic acid, isocetylic acid, isostearylic acid, cetylic acid, stearylic acid and cetylstearylic acid, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, oleic acid will be used.

Among the anionic surfactants mentioned above, fatty acids are preferably used.

The non-ionic surfactant(s) that may be used in the composition of the present invention are notably described, for example, in the “Handbook of Surfactants” by M.R. Porter, published by Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, pages 116-178.

Examples of non-ionic surfactants that may be mentioned include the following compounds, alone or as a mixture:

- oxyalkylenated (Cx-C24)alkylphcnols;

- saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated or glycerolated Cs- C40 alcohols, preferably comprising one or two fatty chains; - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated Cs to C₃₀ fatty acid amides;

- esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C₈-C₃₀ acids and of polyethylene glycols;

- preferably oxyethylenated esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, Cs to C₃₀ acids and of sorbitol;

- fatty acid esters of sucrose;

- (C₈-C₃o)alkyl(poly)glucosides, (Cs-C₃o)alkenyl(poly)glucosides, which are optionally oxyalkylenated (0 to 10 oxyalkylene units) and comprising from 1 to 15 glucose units, (Cs-C₃o)alkyl(poly)glucoside esters;

- saturated or unsaturated oxyethylenated plant oils;

- condensates of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide;

- N-(C₈-C₃o)alkylglucamine and N-(C₈-C₃o)acylmethylglucamine derivatives;

- amine oxides.

They are notably chosen from alcohols, a-diols and (Ci-C₂o)alkylphenols, these compounds being ethoxylated, propoxylated or glycerolated and containing at least one fatty chain including, for example, from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups possibly ranging notably from 1 to 200, and the number of glycerol groups possibly ranging notably from 1 to 30.

Mention may also be made of condensates of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols, ethoxylated fatty amides preferably containing from 1 to 30 ethylene oxide units, polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average from 1 to 5, and in particular from 1.5 to 4, glycerol groups, ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan containing from 1 to 30 ethylene oxide units, fatty acid esters of sucrose, fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol, (C₆-C₂₄ alkyl)polyglycosides, oxyethylenated plant oils, N-(C₆-C₂₄ alkyl)glucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (C₁₀-C₁₄ alkyl)amine oxides or N-(Cio- Ci₄ acyl)aminopropylmorpholine oxides.

The C₈-C₃₀ and preferably C₁₂-C₂₂ fatty acid esters (especially monoesters, diesters and triesters) of sorbitan may be chosen from: sorbitan caprylate; sorbitan cocoate; sorbitan isostearate; sorbitan laurate; sorbitan oleate; sorbitan palmitate; sorbitan stearate; sorbitan diisostearate; sorbitan dioleate; sorbitan distearate; sorbitan sesquicaprylate; sorbitan sesquiisostearate; sorbitan sesquioleate; sorbitan sesquistearate; sorbitan triisostearate; sorbitan trioleate; and sorbitan tristearate.

The polyoxyethylenated C₈-C₃₀ (preferably C₁₂-C₁₈) fatty acid esters (notably monoesters, diesters and triesters) of sorbitan notably containing from 2 to 20 mol of ethylene oxide may be chosen from polyoxyethylenated esters of C₁₂-C₁₈ fatty acids, in particular lauric, myristic, cetylic or stearic acid, of sorbitan notably containing from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide, such as: polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monolaurate (4 OE) (Polysorbate-21), polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monolaurate (20 OE) (Polysorbate-20), polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monopalmitate (20 OE) (Polysorbate-40), polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monostearate (20 OE) (Polysorbate-60), polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monostearate (4 OE) (Polysorbate-61), polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monooleate (20 OE) (Polysorbate-80), polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monooleate (5 OE) (Polysorbate-81), polyoxyethylenated sorbitan tristearate (20 OE) (Polysorbate-65), polyoxyethylenated sorbitan trioleate (20 OE) (Polysorbate-85).

The polyoxyethylenated C8-C30 (preferably C12-C18) fatty acid esters (notably monoesters, diesters, triesters and tetraesters) of sorbitan, notably containing from 2 to 20 mol of ethylene oxide, may be chosen from polyoxyethylenated esters, notably containing from 2 to 20 mol of ethylene oxide, such as of C12-C18 fatty acids, in particular lauric, myristic, cetylic or stearic acid, and of sorbitan, such as:

- the ester polyoxyethylenated with 20 OE of sorbitan and of cocoic acid (PEG-20 sorbitan cocoate);

- the polyoxyethylenated esters (especially containing from 2 to 20 OE) of sorbitan and of isostearic acid (such as PEG-2 sorbitan isostearate; PEG-5 sorbitan isostearate; PEG- 20 sorbitan isostearate such as the product sold under the name Nikkol TI 10 V by the company Nikkol),

- the polyoxyethylenated esters (notably containing from 2 to 20 OE) of sorbitan and of lauric acid (such as PEG- 10 Sorbitan Laurate),

- the polyoxyethylenated esters (notably containing from 2 to 20 OE) of sorbitan and of oleic acid containing 10 oxyethylene groups (such as PEG-6 sorbitan oleate; PEG- 20 sorbitan oleate),

- the polyoxyethylenated esters (notably containing from 3 to 20 OE) of sorbitan and of stearic acid (such as PEG-3 Sorbitan Stearate; PEG-4 Sorbitan Stearate; PEG-6 Sorbitan Stearate).

The non-ionic surfactant(s) are preferably chosen from ethoxylated C8-C24 fatty alcohols comprising from 1 to 200 ethylene oxide groups, ethoxylated C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan containing from 1 to 30 ethylene oxide units, (C6-C24 alkyl)polyglycosides, and mixtures thereof, better still from (C6-C24 alkyl)polyglycosides, even better still from (C6-C24 alkyl)polyglycosides such as: cocoyl glucoside, caprylyl/capryl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, decyl glucoside and cetearyl glucoside. The cationic surfactant(s) that may be used in the composition according to the invention are generally chosen from optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

The fatty amines generally comprise at least one C₈-C₃₀ hydrocarbon-based chain. Among the fatty amines that may be used according to the invention, examples that may be mentioned include stearylamidopropyldimethylamine and distearylamine.

Examples of quaternary ammonium salts that may notably be mentioned include:

- those corresponding to the general formula (X) below:

in which the groups Rg to Rn, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group including from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups Rs to Rn including from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The aliphatic groups may include heteroatoms notably such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens.

The aliphatic groups are chosen, for example, from C₁-C₃₀ alkyl, C₁-C₃₀ alkoxy, polyoxy(C2-C6)alkylene, C₁-C₃₀ alkylamide, (Ci2-C22)alkylamido(C2-C6)alkyl, (C₁₂- C22)alkyl acetate and C₁-C₃₀ hydroxyalkyl groups, X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates, (Ci-C4)alkylsulfonates or (Ci- C4)alkylarylsulfonates .

Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (X), preference is given, firstly, to tetraalkylammonium chlorides, for instance dialky ldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group comprises from about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride, or else, secondly, to distearoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate or distearoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, or else, finally, to palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride or stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium chloride, sold under the name Ceraphyl® 70 by the company Van Dyk;

- quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, for instance those of formula (XI) below:

in which Rn represents an alkenyl or alkyl group containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, derived, for example, from tallow fatty acids, Rn represents a hydrogen atom, a Ci- C4 alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R14 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group, R15 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group, X- is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates, (Ci-C4)alkylsulfonates or (Ci-C4)alkylarylsulfonates.

Preferably, R12 and R13 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups including from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example tallow fatty acid derivatives, R14 denotes a methyl group and Ri5 denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is sold, for example, under the name Rewoquat® W 75 by the company Rewo,

- quaternary diammonium or triammonium salts, in particular of formula (XII) below:

in which R_½ denotes an alkyl group containing approximately from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxy lated and/or interrupted with one or more oxygen atoms, Ri7 is chosen from hydrogen, an alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group

-(CH2)3-N+(Ri6a)(Ri7a)(Ri8a), Ri6a, Rna, Ri8a, Ri8, Ri9, R20 and R21, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen and an alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates, and (Ci-C4)alkyl- or (Ci-C4)alkylarylsulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate.

Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P, sold by the company Finetex (Quatemium 89), and Finquat CT, sold by the company Finetex (Quatemium 75);

- quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functions, for instance those of formula (XIII) below: (C_SH_2SO)_Z - R₂₅

O

R₂₄— C - (O— C_rH_r2(OH)_r1)_y— |jj⁺— (C_tH_t2(OH)_t1— 0) — R₂₃ X

^Rs2 (XIII) in which: R22 is chosen from C1-C6 alkyl groups and C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups; R23 is chosen from: the group -C(0)R26, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C22 hydrocarbon-based groups R27, a hydrogen atom; R25 is chosen from: the group -C(0)R2s, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C6 hydrocarbon-based groups R29, a hydrogen atom; R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C21 hydrocarbon-based groups; r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are integers from 2 to 6 ; rl and tl, which may be identical or different, are 0 or l; r2 + rl = 2 r and tl + t2 = 2 t, y is an integer from 1 to 10, x and z, which may be identical or different, are integers from 0 to 10, X- is an organic or inorganic, simple or complex anion, with the proviso that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 R23 denotes R27 and that when z is 0 R25 denotes R29.

The alkyl groups R22 may be linear or branched, and more particularly linear.

Preferably, R22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.

Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10.

When R23 is a hydrocarbon-based group R27, it may be long and contain from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and contain from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

When R25 is a hydrocarbon-based group R29, it preferably contains 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

Advantageously, R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C11-C21 hydrocarbon-based groups, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C11-C21 alkyl and alkenyl groups.

Preferably, x and z, which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1.

Advantageously, y is equal to 1.

Preferably, r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.

The anion X is preferably a halide, preferably chloride, bromide or iodide, a (Ci- C4)alkyl sulfate or a (Ci-C4)alkyl- or (Ci-C4)alkylarylsulfonate. However, use may be made of methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid, such as acetate or lactate, or any other anion that is compatible with the ammonium bearing an ester function.

The anion X is even more particularly chloride, methyl sulfate or ethyl sulfate. Use is made more particularly, in the composition according to the invention, of the ammonium salts of formula (XIII) in which: R22 denotes a methyl or ethyl group, x and y are equal to 1, z is equal to 0 or 1, r, s and t are equal to 2; R23 is chosen from: the group -C(0)R26, methyl, ethyl or C14-C22 hydrocarbon-based groups, a hydrogen atom, R25 is chosen from: the group -C(0)R2s, a hydrogen atom, R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 hydrocarbon-based groups, and preferably from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups.

Advantageously, the hydrocarbon-based groups are linear.

Among the compounds of formula (XIII), examples that may be mentioned include salts, notably the chloride or methyl sulfate, of diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium or monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium, and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably contain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are derived more particularly from a plant oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these groups may be identical or different.

These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, an alkyldiethanolamine or an alkyldiisopropanolamine, which are optionally oxyalkylenated, with fatty acids or with fatty acid mixtures of plant or animal origin, or by transesterification of the methyl esters thereof. This esterification is followed by quatemization by means of an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl halide, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably dimethyl or diethyl sulfate, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.

Such compounds are sold, for example, under the names Dehyquart® by the company Henkel, Stepanquat® by the company Stepan, Noxamium® by the company CECA or Rewoquat® WE 18 by the company Rewo-Witco.

The composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium monoester, diester and triester salts with a weight majority of diester salts.

Use may also be made of the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function that are described in patents US-A-4 874 554 and US-A-4 137 180.

Use may also be made of the behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride sold, for example, by the company Kao under the name Quartamin BTC 131.

Preferably, the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions. Among the cationic surfactants, it is more particularly preferred to choose cetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium and dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethyl- methylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly behenyl trimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, and dipalmitoylethyl- hydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the surfactant(s) are chosen from anionic surfactants, non-ionic surfactants and mixtures thereof, preferentially from fatty acids, ethoxylated C8-C24 fatty alcohols comprising from 1 to 200 ethylene oxide groups, ethoxylated C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan containing from 1 to 30 ethylene oxide units, (C6-C24 alkyl)polyglycosides, and mixtures thereof.

More preferentially, the surfactant(s) are chosen from fatty acids, (C6-C24 alkyl)polyglycosides and mixtures thereof.

When the composition comprises one or more surfactants, the total content of surfactant(s) in the composition preferably ranges from 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 8% by weight, even better still from 1% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

When the composition comprises one or more surfactants chosen from fatty acids, the total content of fatty acids in the composition preferably ranges from 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 8% by weight, even better still from 1% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

When the composition comprises one or more surfactants chosen from (C6-C24 alkyl)polyglycosides, the total content of (C6-C24 alkyl)polyglycosides in the composition preferably ranges from 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 8% by weight, even better still from 0.3% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Sequestrants

The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one sequestrant (or chelating agent).

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more sequestrants.

The definition of a “sequestrant” (or “chelating agent”) is well known to those skilled in the art and refers to a compound or a mixture of compounds that are capable of forming a chelate with a metal ion. A chelate is an inorganic complex in which a compound (the sequestrant or chelating agent) is coordinated to a metal ion, i.e. it forms one or more bonds with the metal ion (formation of a ring including the metal ion). A sequestrant (or chelating agent) generally comprises at least two electron- donating atoms which enable the formation of bonds with the metal ion.

Within the context of the present invention, the sequestrant(s) may be chosen from carboxylic acids, preferably aminocarboxylic acids, phosphonic acids, preferably aminophosphonic acids, polyphosphoric acids, preferably linear polyphosphoric acids, salts thereof, and derivatives thereof.

The salts are in particular alkali metal, alkaline-earth metal, ammonium and substituted ammonium salts.

The following compounds may be mentioned as examples of chelating agents based on carboxylic acids: diethylenetriamine pentaacetic acid (DTPA), ethylenediamine disuccinic acid (EDDS) and trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate such as Octaquest E30 from Octel, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and salts thereof such as disodium EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA, ethylenediamine-N,N’-diglutaric acid (EDDG), glycinamide- N,N’ -disuccinic acid (GADS), 2-hydroxypropylenediamine-N,N’ -disuccinic acid (HPDDS), ethylenediamine-N,N’-bis(ortho-hydroxyphenylacetic acid) (EDDHA), N,N’- bis(2-hydroxybenzyl)ethylenediamine-N,N’-diacetic acid (HBED), nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA), methylglycinediacetic acid (MGDA), N-2-hydroxyethyl-N,N-diacetic acid and glyceryliminodiacetic acid (as described in EP-A-317 542 and EP-A-399 133), iminodiacetic acid-N-2-hydroxypropylsulfonic acid and aspartic acid-N-carboxymethyl-N- 2-hydroxypropyl-3-sulfonic acid (as described in EP-A-516 102), beta-alanine-N,N’- diacetic acid, aspartic acid-N,N’-diacetic acid, and aspartic acid-N-monoacetic acid (described in EP-A-509 382), chelating agents based on iminodisuccinic acid (IDS A) (as described in EP-A-509382), ethanoldiglycine acid, phophonobutane tricarboxylic acid such as the compound sold by Bayer under the reference Bayhibit AM, N,N- dicarboxymethylglutamic acid and salts thereof such as tetrasodium glutamate diacetate (GLDA) such as Dissolvine GL38 or 45S from Akzo Nobel.

The following compounds may be mentioned as examples of chelating agents based on mono- or polyphosphonic acid: diethylenetriaminepenta(methylene phosphonic acid) (DTPMP), ethane- l-hydroxy-l,l,2-triphosphonic acid (E1HTP), ethane-2-hydroxy- 1,1,2-triphosphonic acid (E2HTP), ethane- l-hydroxy-l,l-triphosphonic acid (EHDP), ethane- 1,1, 2 -triphosphonic acid (ETP), ethylenediaminetetramethylene phosphonic acid (EDTMP), hydroxy ethane- 1,1-diphosphonic acid (HEDP, or etidronic acid), and salts such as disodium etidronate, tetrasodium etidronate.

The following compounds may be mentioned as examples of chelating agents based on polyphosphoric acid: sodium tripolyphosphate (STP), tetrasodium diphosphate, hexametaphosphoric acid, sodium metaphosphate, phytic acid. According to one embodiment, the sequestrant(s) that are useful according to the invention are phosphorus-based sequestrants, i.e. sequestrants which comprise one or more phosphorus atoms, preferably at least two phosphorus atoms.

The phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) used in the composition according to the invention are preferably chosen from:

- inorganic phosphorus-based derivatives preferably chosen from alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, preferably alkali metal, phosphates and pyrophosphates, such as sodium pyrophosphate, potassium pyrophosphate, sodium pyrophosphate decahydrate; and alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, preferably alkali metal, polyphosphates, such as sodium hexametaphosphate, sodium polyphosphate, sodium tripolyphosphate, sodium trimetaphosphate; which are optionally hydrated, and mixtures thereof;

- organic phosphorus-based derivatives, such as organic (poly)phosphates and (poly)phosphonates, such as etidronic acid and/or alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts thereof, for instance tetrasodium etidronate, disodium etidronate, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) are chosen from linear or cyclic compounds comprising at least two phosphorus atoms bonded together covalently via at least one linker L comprising at least one oxygen atom and/or at least one carbon atom.

The phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) may be chosen from inorganic phosphorus- based derivatives, preferably comprising at least two phosphorus atoms. More preferentially, the phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) are chosen from alkali metal or alkaline- earth metal pyrophosphates, better still from alkali metal pyrophosphates, in particular sodium pyrophosphate (also known as tetrasodium pyrophosphate).

The phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) may be chosen from organic phosphorus- based derivatives, preferably comprising at least two phosphorus atoms. More preferentially, the phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) are chosen from etidronic acid (also known as 1 -hydroxy ethane- 1,1-diphosphonic acid) and/or alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, preferably alkali metal, salts thereof, for instance tetrasodium etidronate and disodium etidronate.

Thus, preferably, the phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) are chosen from alkali metal pyrophosphates, etidronic acid and/or alkali metal salts thereof, and a mixture of these compounds.

Particularly preferably, the phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) are chosen from tetrasodium etidronate, disodium etidronate, etidronic acid, tetrasodium pyrophosphate, and a mixture of these compounds.

According to the present invention, the sequestrants are preferably chosen from diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DTPA) and salts thereof, diethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and salts thereof, ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS) and salts thereof, etidronic acid and salts thereof, N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid and salts thereof (GLDA), and mixtures thereof.

More preferentially, the sequestrant(s) are chosen from N,N- dicarboxymethylglutamic acid and salts thereof (GLDA), and mixtures thereof.

Among the salts of these compounds, the alkali metal salts and notably the sodium or potassium salts are preferred.

When the composition comprises one or more sequestrants, the total content of the sequestrant(s) preferably ranges from 0.001% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.01% to 8% by weight, even better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Thickening polymers

The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one thickening polymer, preferably chosen from polysaccharides, more preferentially from anionic polysaccharides.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more thickening polymer(s), preferably chosen from polysaccharides, more preferentially from anionic polysaccharides.

The term “polysaccharides” means polymers which contain at least 11 monosaccharide units. Preferentially, the polysaccharides of the invention include between 20 and 100000 monosaccharide units.

The anionic polysaccharides according to the invention comprise one or more anionic or anionizable groups, and do not comprise any cationic or cationizable groups.

The anionic polysaccharides that are useful according to the invention may be chosen from those derived from the following sugars: glucose; galactose; arabinose; rhamnose; mannose; xylose; fucose; anhydrogalactose; galacturonic acid; glucuronic acid; mannuronic acid; galactose sulfate; anhydrogalactose sulfate.

The polymers bearing sugar units of the invention may be natural or synthetic.

According to a particular embodiment, the anionic polysaccharides that are useful according to the invention are chosen from native gums such as:

• tree or shrub exudates, for instance: acacia gum (branched polymer of galactose, arabinose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); ghatti gum (polymer derived from arabinose, galactose, mannose, xylose and glucuronic acid); karaya gum (polymer derived from galacturonic acid, galactose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); gum tragacanth (polymer of galacturonic acid, galactose, fucose, xylose and arabinose);

• gums derived from algae, such as: alginates (polymers of mannuronic acid and glucuronic acid); carrageenans and furcellerans (polymers of galactose sulfate and anhydrogalactose sulfate); • microbial gums such as: xanthan gums (polymer of glucose, mannose acetate, mannose/pyruvic acid and glucuronic acid); gellan gums (polymer of partially acylated glucose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid).

For the purposes of the present invention, "microbial gums" is intended to mean substances synthesized by fermentation of sugars by microorganisms.

According to a preferred embodiment, the anionic polysaccharides that are useful according to the invention are chosen from anionic gums, better still from anionic microbial gums, more preferentially from xanthan gums.

When they are present, the total content of thickening polymers preferably ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.05% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

When they are present, the total content of anionic polysaccharides as defined above preferably ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.05% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The total content of the microbial gums as defined above preferably ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Chemical oxidizing agents

The composition according to the invention may optionally additionally comprise one or more chemical oxidizing agents.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more chemical oxidizing agents.

According to another particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention does not comprise chemical oxidizing agents.

According to this embodiment, the composition according to the invention is preferably mixed at the moment of use with at least one composition comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents.

The term "chemical oxidizing agent" is understood to mean, for the purposes of the present invention, an oxidizing agent other than atmospheric oxygen.

The chemical oxidizing agent(s) (or bleaching agents) that may be used in the present invention may be chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea hydrogen peroxide, alkali metal bromates, persalts, such as perborates and persulfates, in particular sodium persulfate, potassium persulfate and ammonium persulfate, peracids and oxidase enzymes (with their optional cofactors), among which mention may be made of peroxidases, 2-electron oxidoreductases, such as uricases, and 4-electron oxygenases, such as laccases, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially, the chemical oxidizing agent(s) is/are chosen from hydrogen peroxide, persalts, and mixtures thereof, more preferably hydrogen peroxide.

Preferably, when they are present in the composition according to the invention, the chemical oxidizing agent(s) is/are present in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 15% by weight, even more preferentially ranging from 2% to 10% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

Solvent

The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one organic solvent.

Examples of organic solvents that may be mentioned include linear or branched C2 to C4 alkanols, such as ethanol, propanol and isopropanol; glycerol; polyols and polyol ethers, for instance 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, 1,3 -propanediol, dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether and monoethyl ether, and also aromatic alcohols or ethers, for instance benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.

The organic solvent(s) may be present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably ranging from 2% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In addition, the composition according to the invention is preferably an aqueous composition. The composition preferably comprises water in an amount of greater than or equal to 5% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 10% by weight, and better still greater than or equal to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the content of water ranges from 15% to 80% by weight, preferentially from 30% to 70% by weight and better still from 40% to 60% by weight.

Additives

The composition according to the invention may contain any adjuvant or additive usually used.

Among the additives which may be contained in the composition according to the invention there may be mentioned reducing agents, thickeners other than those described above, emollients, anti-foaming agents, hydrating agents, UV filters, peptizing agents, solubilizers, fragrances, anionic, cationic, non-ionic or amphoteric polymers or mixtures thereof other than those described above, anti-dandruff agents, anti- seborrheic s, vitamins and provitamins including panthenol, sunscreens, plasticizers, solubilizing agents, acidifying agents, antioxidants, hydroxy acids, fragrances, direct dyes and preservatives. Needless to say, those skilled in the art will take care to select this or these optional additional compounds such that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the composition according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition(s).

The above additives may generally be present in an amount, for each of them, of between 0 and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Advantageously, the composition according to the invention is a composition for dyeing keratin fibres.

Likewise advantageously, the composition according to the invention is a composition for dyeing the hair.

Process

In other words, the dyeing process comprises at least the application of a composition according to the invention comprising:

- one or more shea-derived fatty substances, preferably chosen from shea butter, shea olein, and mixtures thereof, as defined above, in a total content which ranges from 0.5% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,

- one or more alkaline agents as defined above,

- optionally one or more fatty substances other than fatty acids and shea-derived fatty substances and/or one or more surfactants, preferably chosen from non-ionic surfactants, anionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof, as defined above.

In particular, the dyeing process comprises at least one step of applying a composition as defined above.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention is a composition for dyeing keratin fibres, such as the hair. The composition according to the invention may be used on wet or dry keratin fibres, and also on any type of fair or dark, natural or dyed, permanent- waved, bleached or relaxed fibres.

According to a particular embodiment of the process of the invention, the fibres are washed before applying the composition described above.

The application of the composition of the invention to the keratin fibres may be carried out by any conventional means, in particular by means of a comb, a fine brush, a coarse brush or with the fingers.

The dyeing process, i.e. application of the dye composition to the keratin fibres, is generally carried out at ambient temperature (between 15°C and 25°C).

The composition according to the invention may be applied to the keratin fibres for a leave-on time ranging from 30 to 60 minutes.

After application of the composition according to the invention, the keratin fibres may optionally be washed with a shampoo and/or be rinsed with water.

In one particular embodiment, the dyeing process comprises at least the application of a composition according to the invention comprising:

- one or more alkaline agents as defined above,

- optionally one or more fatty substances other than fatty acids and shea-derived fatty substances as defined above,

- one or more non-ionic surfactants as defined above, preferably chosen from (Cs- C3o)alkyl(poly)glucosides.

In another particular embodiment, the dyeing process comprises at least the application of a composition according to the invention comprising:

- one or more alkaline agents as defined above,

- one or more anionic surfactants as defined above, preferably chosen from fatty acids.

Preferably, the dyeing process comprises at least the application to said keratin fibres of at least one composition according to the invention in the presence of one or more chemical oxidizing agents as defined above, preferably hydrogen peroxide.

Preferably, the dyeing process comprises at least the application to said fibres of a composition according to the invention comprising:

- one or more oxidation couplers chosen from 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline and 2-amino-5-ethylphenol, their addition salts, their solvates and/or the solvates of their salts, and mixtures thereof,

- one or more oxidation bases.

- one or more alkaline agents as defined above,

- optionally one or more fatty substances other than fatty acids and shea-derived fatty substances and/or one or more surfactants, preferably chosen from non-ionic surfactants, anionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof as defined above,

- one or more oxidizing agents as defined above, preferably hydrogen peroxide.

According to one particular embodiment, the dyeing process comprises at least the use of a composition as defined above and the use of at least one composition comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents as defined above.

According to a particular embodiment, the dyeing process comprises at least the application, to said fibres, of a composition obtained by mixing, at the moment of use:

• at least one composition, as defined above, comprising:

- one or more oxidation dyes chosen from: one or more oxidation couplers chosen from 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline and 2-amino-5-ethylphenol, their addition salts, their solvates and/or the solvates of their salts and mixtures thereof, and one or more oxidation bases chosen from 2-methoxymethyl-para- phenylenediamine, 2-P-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2 - g - h y d ro x y p ro p y 1 p a ra - phenylenediamine, and their salts, their solvates and/or the solvates of their salts and mixtures thereof,

- one or more alkaline agents,

- optionally one or more fatty substances other than fatty acids and shea-derived fatty substances and/or one or more surfactants, preferably chosen from non-ionic surfactants, anionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof,

• at least one composition comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents as described above, preferably hydrogen peroxide.

According to another particular embodiment, the dyeing process comprises at least the application, to said fibres, of a composition obtained by mixing, at the moment of use:

• at least one composition, as defined above, comprising:

- one or more alkaline agents,

- optionally one or more fatty substances other than fatty acids and shea-derived fatty substances,

- optionally one or more non-ionic surfactants as defined above, preferably chosen from (C8-C3o)alkyl(poly)glucosides,

- optionally one or more anionic surfactants as defined above, preferably chosen from fatty acids, • at least one composition comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents as described above, preferably hydrogen peroxide.

The oxidizing composition is preferably an aqueous composition. In particular, it comprises more than 5% by weight of water, preferably more than 10% by weight of water and even more advantageously more than 20% by weight of water.

The oxidizing composition also preferably comprises one or more acidifying agents. Among the acidifying agents, examples that may be mentioned include mineral or organic acids, for instance hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids, for instance acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid or lactic acid, and sulfonic acids.

The oxidizing composition may also comprise fatty substances such as those described above, preferably chosen from fatty alcohols, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof, surfactants and polymers.

Usually, the pH of the oxidizing composition, when it is aqueous, is less than 7.

Preferably, the oxidizing composition comprises hydrogen peroxide as oxidizing agent, in aqueous solution, the concentration of which ranges, more particularly, from 0.1% to 30% by weight%, more particularly from 1% to 20% by weight and even more preferentially from 2% to 15% by weight, relative to the weight of the oxidizing composition.

The present invention also relates to the use of the composition according to the invention as described above for dyeing keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair.

The present invention also relates to a ready-to-use composition, as defined above, comprising:

- one or more shea-derived fatty substances, preferably chosen from shea butter, shea olein, and mixtures thereof, as described above, in a total content which ranges from 0.5% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,

- one or more alkaline agents as described above,

- optionally one or more fatty substances other than fatty acids and shea-derived fatty substances and/or one or more surfactants, preferably chosen from non-ionic surfactants, anionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof, as defined above, - one or more chemical oxidizing agents as described above, preferably hydrogen peroxide.

The invention further relates to a multicompartment device comprising at least a first compartment containing the composition according to the invention as described hereinabove, and at least a second compartment containing one or more oxidizing agents as described hereinabove, preferably hydrogen peroxide.

The examples that follow serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature.

Examples

Composition A (according to the invention) and composition B (comparative) were prepared from the following ingredients, expressed in % by weight:

[Table 1]

The oxidizing composition C was prepared from the following ingredients, expressed in % by weight:

[Table 2]

At the moment of use, each of the dye compositions A and B is mixed with 1 times ½ of oxidizing composition C.

Each of the mixtures is then applied to a lock of hair containing 90% natural white hairs, in a proportion of 5 g of mixture per gram of hair.

After a leave-on time of 35 minutes on a plate thermostatically regulated at 27°C, the hair is rinsed, washed with a standard shampoo, and dried.

The colour strength is then evaluated.

The colorimetric measurements were performed using a Konica Minolta-3600 spectrocolorimeter (illuminant D65, angle 10°, specular component included) in the CIELab system.

L* represents the lightness; the lower the value of L* , the more powerful the colouration obtained.

The results are given in the table below: [Table 31

Composition A according to the invention results in a lower value of L*, thus in a stronger colouring, compared to the comparative composition.

Claims

1. Composition comprising:

- one or more alkaline agents.

2. Composition according to the preceding claim, comprising:

- optionally one or more oxidation bases,

- one or more alkaline agents,

- optionally one or more fatty substances other than fatty acids and shea-derived fatty acids and/or one or more non-ionic surfactants.

3. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the oxidation couplers(s) are present in a content ranging from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5%, even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. Composition according to Claim 2, characterized in that it comprises one or more oxidation bases, preferably chosen from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases, and the corresponding addition salts, their solvates, the solvates of their salts and mixtures thereof; preferentially from 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-P-hydroxyethyl- para-phenylenediamine, 2-Y-hydroxypropyl-para-phenylenediamine, their addition salts, their solvates, the solvates of their salts and mixtures thereof.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of shea-derived fatty substances ranges from 1% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 2% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the alkaline agent(s) are chosen from alkanolamines such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine; aqueous ammonia, carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium (hydrogen) carbonate and potassium (hydrogen) carbonate, alkali metal or alkaline- earth metal silicates or metasilicates such as sodium metasilicate and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from aqueous ammonia and alkanolamines, better still from alkanolamines, even better still monoethanolamine.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises one or more fatty substances other than fatty acids and shea-derived fatty substances, preferably chosen from fatty alcohols, more preferentially from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, such as cetearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of the fatty substance(s) other than fatty acids and shea-derived fatty substances ranges from 5% to 40% by weight, more preferentially from 8% to 30% by weight and better still from 10% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises one or more surfactants, preferably chosen from non-ionic surfactants, anionic surfactants and mixtures thereof, more preferentially chosen from (Cs- C3o)alkyl(poly)glucosides, fatty acids, and mixtures thereof, better still from coco glucoside, cetearyl glucoside, oleic acid and mixtures thereof.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of the surfactant(s) ranges from 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferentially 0.1% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 8% by weight, even better still from 1% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises one or more chemical oxidizing agents, preferably chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea hydrogen peroxide, alkali metal bromates, persalts, such as perborates and persulfates, peracids and oxidase enzymes (with their optional cofactors), and mixtures thereof; preferably, the chemical oxidizing agent(s) is/are chosen from hydrogen peroxide, persalts, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially hydrogen peroxide.

12. Process for dyeing keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising the application to said keratin fibres of a composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 11.

13. Process according to Claim 12, characterized in that it comprises the use of at least one composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 9 and the use of at least one composition comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents as defined according to Claim 11.

14. Process according to Claim 12 or 13, characterized in that it comprises at least the application to said fibres of a composition obtained by mixing, at the moment of use:

• at least one composition as defined according to any one of Claims 1 to 10, and

• at least one composition comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents as defined according to Claim 11.

15. Use of a composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 11 for dyeing keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair.

16. Multicompartment device comprising at least a first compartment containing the composition as defined according to any one of Claims 1 to 10, and at least a second compartment containing a composition comprising one or more oxidizing agents as defined according to Claim 11.