WO2022129350A1 - Cosmetic composition comprising a combination of two particular couplers and an oxyethylenated fatty acid ester of sorbitan - Google Patents

Cosmetic composition comprising a combination of two particular couplers and an oxyethylenated fatty acid ester of sorbitan Download PDF

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WO2022129350A1
WO2022129350A1 PCT/EP2021/086231 EP2021086231W WO2022129350A1 WO 2022129350 A1 WO2022129350 A1 WO 2022129350A1 EP 2021086231 W EP2021086231 W EP 2021086231W WO 2022129350 A1 WO2022129350 A1 WO 2022129350A1
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weight
solvates
chosen
salts
composition
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PCT/EP2021/086231
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French (fr)
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Laurence COTTARD-MEI
Valerie Nicou
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L'oreal
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/4973—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/4993—Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/10—Preparations for permanently dyeing the hair

Definitions

  • TITLE Cosmetic composition comprising a combination of two particular couplers and an oxyethylenated fatty acid ester of sorbitan
  • a subject of the present invention is a cosmetic composition
  • a cosmetic composition comprising 6- hydroxybenzomorpholine of formula (II), hydroxy ethyl-3,4-methylenedioxy aniline of formula (III) and at least one oxyethylenated fatty acid ester of sorbitan as nonionic surfactant.
  • the present invention also relates to a process for dyeing keratin fibres, such as the hair, wherein the composition as described previously is applied to said fibres.
  • composition according to the invention for the dyeing of keratin fibres such as the hair.
  • oxidation bases notably ortho- or para-phenylenediamines, ortho- or para-aminophenols and heterocyclic compounds.
  • oxidation bases are colourless or weakly coloured compounds, which, when combined with oxidizing products, are able to produce coloured compounds by a process of oxidative condensation.
  • couplers or colour modifiers the latter being notably chosen from aromatic meta-diaminobenzenes, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols and certain heterocyclic compounds such as indole compounds.
  • Permanent dyeing is characterized by the use of oxidation dye precursor(s) (bases and/or couplers) in the presence of oxidizing compound(s). In order to be considered as efficient dyeing, the latter needs to satisfy certain criteria. It must make it possible to obtain shades in the desired intensity with colour differences, between the end and the root of the same lock (also known as the selectivity), which are as small as possible.
  • the colouring must also be resistant over time and must not become degraded in the presence of external agents such as washing, light, bad weather, rubbing and perspiration.
  • the dyeing results obtained are not always very satisfactory, especially in terms of selectivity, of colour build-up, in particular for ensuring good coverage of the hair, more particularly of white hair, of chromaticity, of intensity and/or of persistence, in particular with respect to successive shampooing operations, or of resistance to light or to perspiration.
  • compositions that can dye keratin fibres in an intense, persistent, sparingly selective and chromatic manner, with good buildup of the colour, and which are capable of giving colourings that are resistant to the various attacking factors to which the fibres may be subjected, such as bad weather, washing and perspiration, and are also capable of resulting in good dyeing performance even after a period of storage.
  • a subject of the present invention is thus a cosmetic composition
  • a cosmetic composition comprising:
  • At least one oxidation coupler chosen from 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine of formula (II) below, one of its addition salts, its solvates and/or solvates of its salts:
  • At least one oxidation coupler chosen from hydroxyethyl-3,4- methylenedioxyaniline of formula (III) below, one of its addition salts, its solvates and/or solvates of its salts:
  • nonionic surfactants chosen from oxyethylenated C8-C3O fatty acid esters of sorbitan.
  • composition according to the invention comprising a particular combination of two oxidation couplers and at least one oxyethylenated fatty acid ester of sorbitan as nonionic surfactant, makes it possible to achieve the above objectives, in particular in terms of intensity, colour build-up and selectivity of the dyeing of the keratin fibres, and also in terms of the colouring fastness, in particular with respect to shampooing operations.
  • the present invention also relates to a process for dyeing keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, wherein the composition as described previously is applied to said fibres.
  • the present invention also relates to the use of the composition according to the invention for dyeing keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair.
  • the invention furthermore relates to a multicompartment device comprising at least a first compartment containing the composition according to the invention, and at least a second compartment containing one or more oxidizing agents as described hereinafter.
  • composition according to the invention comprises at least two particular oxidation couplers.
  • composition according to the invention comprises an oxidation coupler chosen from 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine of formula (II) below, one of its addition salts, its solvates and/or solvates of its salts:
  • the oxidation coupler(s) chosen from 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine of formula (II), one of its addition salts, its solvates and/or solvates of its salts is/are present in a content ranging from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5%, even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention also comprises at least one oxidation coupler chosen from hydroxy ethyl-3,4-methylenedioxy aniline of formula (III) below, one of its addition salts, its solvates and/or solvates of its salts:
  • the oxidation coupler(s) chosen from hydroxyethyl-3,4- methylenedioxyaniline of formula (III), one of its addition salts, its solvates and/or solvates of its salts is/are present in a total content ranging from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5%, even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the oxidation coupler(s) chosen from 6- hydroxybenzomorpholine of formula (II), one of its addition salts, its solvates and/or solvates of its salts is/are present in a content ranging from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5%, even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition
  • the oxidation coupler(s) chosen from hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline of formula (III), one of its addition salts, its solvates and/or solvates of its salts is/are present in a total content ranging from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5%, even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the total content of oxidation couplers chosen from 6- hydroxybenzomorpholine of formula (II), its addition salts, its solvates and/or solvates of its salts, and hydroxy ethyl-3,4-methylenedioxy aniline of formula (III), its addition salts, its solvates and/or solvates of its salts ranges from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5%, even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the weight ratio between the content of oxidation couplers chosen from 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine of formula (II) and the content of oxidation couplers chosen from hydroxy ethyl-3,4-methylenedioxy aniline of formula (III), their addition salts, their solvates and/or the solvates of their salts is between 0.1 and 10, preferably between 0.4 and 5, more preferentially between 0.5 and 2.
  • composition according to the invention may optionally additionally comprise one or more oxidation couplers different from 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine of formula (II), hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline of formula (III), their addition salts, their solvates and/or the solvates of their salts.
  • oxidation couplers are referred to herein as additional oxidation couplers.
  • the additional oxidation couplers may be chosen from meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalene -based coupling agents, and heterocyclic coupling agents, and their corresponding addition salts.
  • the additional oxidation coupler(s) is/are chosen from meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalene -based coupling agents, heterocyclic coupling agents, and their corresponding addition salts, their solvates and/or the solvates of their salts; even more preferentially 1,3-dihydroxybenzene, l,3-dihydroxy-2-methylbenzene, 3- aminophenol, 5-N-(P-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylphenol, 2,4-diamino- 1-(P- hydroxyethyloxy)benzene, 2-methyl-5-aminophenol, 2-amino-5-ethylphenol, 6- hydroxyindole, 4-chloro- 1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 3- amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, a-naphthol, 2-([3-aminobenzene, 2-([
  • the composition according to the invention is free from oxidation couplers chosen from resorcinol, 2-methylresorcinol, 4- chlororesorcinol, their addition salts, their solvates and the solvates of their salts.
  • the total content of additional oxidation couplers different from the couplers of formulae (II) and (III), their salts, their solvates and/or solvates of their salts ranges from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5%, even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
  • the total content of oxidation couplers, their salts, their solvates and/or solvates of their salts ranges from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5%, even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention comprises one or more oxyethylenated C8-C3O fatty acid esters of sorbitan as nonionic surfactant.
  • fatty acid is intended to mean a carboxylic acid containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • esters may be chosen from oxyethylenated C8 to C30 fatty acid monoesters and polyesters of sorbitan containing from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units, and preferably from oxyethylenated C12 to C24 fatty acid monoesters and polyesters of sorbitan containing from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units, more preferentially from oxyethylenated C12 to C24 fatty acid monoesters and polyesters of sorbitan containing from 4 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
  • These compounds are known under the name Polysorbates. They are sold, inter alia, under the name Tween.
  • the polyoxyethylenated C8-C3O (preferably C12-C18) fatty acid esters (especially monoesters, diesters and triesters) of sorbitan especially containing from 2 to 20 mol of ethylene oxide may be chosen from polyoxyethylenated esters of C12- C18 fatty acids, in particular lauric, myristic, cetylic or stearic acid, and of sorbitan especially containing from 2 to 20 mol of ethylene oxide, such as:
  • the polyoxyethylenated C8-C3O (preferably C12-C18) fatty acid esters (especially monoesters, diesters, triesters and tetraesters) of sorbitan, especially containing from 2 to 20 mol of ethylene oxide may be chosen from polyoxyethylenated esters, especially containing from 2 to 20 mol of ethylene oxide, of C12-C18 fatty acids, in particular lauric, myristic, cetylic or stearic acid, and of sorbitan, such as:
  • the polyoxyethylenated esters especially containing from 2 to 20 EO
  • the polyoxyethylenated esters especially containing from 2 to 20 EO
  • sorbitan and of isostearic acid such as PEG-2 Sorbitan Isostearate; PEG-5 Sorbitan Isostearate; PEG-20 Sorbitan Isostearate such as the product sold under the name Nikkol TI 10 V by the company Nikkol
  • the polyoxyethylenated esters especially containing from 2 to 20 EO
  • sorbitan and of lauric acid such as PEG- 10 Sorbitan Laurate
  • the polyoxyethylenated esters (especially containing from 2 to 20 EO) of sorbitan and of oleic acid containing 10 oxyethylenated groups (such as PEG-6 Sorbitan Oleate; PEG-20 Sorbitan Oleate), - the polyoxyethylenated esters (especially containing from 3 to 20 EO) of sorbitan and of stearic acid (such as PEG-3 Sorbitan Stearate; PEG-4 Sorbitan Stearate; PEG- 6 Sorbitan Stearate).
  • the term “compound with X EO” is intended to mean an oxyethylenated compound comprising an average number of X ethylene oxide units per molecule.
  • the oxyethylenated C8-C3O fatty acid ester(s) of sorbitan are chosen from oxyethylenated C8-C3O fatty acid esters containing from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units, more preferentially from oxyethylenated C12-C24 fatty acid esters containing from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units, better still from oxyethylenated C12-C18 fatty acid esters of sorbitan containing from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units, even better still from oxyethylenated Cl 2-C 18 fatty acid esters of sorbitan containing from 4 to 10 ethylene oxide units, more preferentially sorbitan monolaurate oxyethylenated with 4 EO.
  • the total content of the oxyethylenated C8-C3O fatty acid ester(s) of sorbitan preferably ranges from 0.2% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 10% by weight, better still from 1.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may optionally also comprise one or more oxidation bases.
  • composition according to the invention additionally comprises one or more oxidation bases.
  • the oxidation bases are chosen from paraphenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, orthoaminophenols, heterocyclic bases and the corresponding addition salts, solvates and solvates of their salts.
  • para-phenylenediamines that may be mentioned are, for example, para-phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3- dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl- para-phenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-para- phenylenediamine, N,N -diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dipropyl-para- phenylenediamine, 4-amino-N,N-diethyl-3-methylaniline, N,N-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)- para-phenylenediamine, 4-N,N-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylaniline, 4-N,N- bis(P-hydroxyethyl)
  • para-phenylenediamine para-toluenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para- phenylenediamine, 2-P-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-(y -hydro xypropyl)- para-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine (A160), 2-P- hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6- diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-bis(P- hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine and 2-P- acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, and the corresponding addition salts
  • bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines that may be mentioned, for example, are N,N'-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)-l,3-diaminopropanol, N,N'- bis(P-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)ethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4- aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4- aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4- methylaminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(ethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-amino-3'- methylphenyl)ethylenediamine and l,8-bis(2,5-diaminophenoxy)
  • para-aminophenols that are mentioned are, for example, paraaminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 4-amino-3- chlorophenol, 4-amino-3 -hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino- 2-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2- aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2-(P-hydroxyethylaminomethyl)phenol and 4-amino-2- fluorophenol, and the corresponding addition salts with an acid, the solvates and/or the solvates of their salts.
  • ortho-aminophenols that may be mentioned, for example, are 2- aminophenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol, 2-amino-6-methylphenol and 5-acetamido-2- aminophenol, and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and/or the solvates of their salts.
  • heterocyclic bases that may be mentioned, for example, are pyridine, pyrimidine and pyrazole derivatives.
  • pyridine derivatives that may be mentioned are the compounds described, for example, in patents GB 1 026 978 and GB 1 153 196, for example 2,5- diaminopyridine, 2-(4-methoxyphenyl)amino-3-aminopyridine and 3,4- diaminopyridine, and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and/or the solvates of their salts.
  • Examples that may be mentioned include pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-acetylaminopyrazolo[l,5- a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-(morpholin-4-yl)pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 3- aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine-2-carboxylic acid, 2-methoxypyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3- ylamine, (3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)methanol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5- a]pyrid-5-yl)ethanol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-7
  • the oxidation bases that are useful in the present invention are chosen from 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridines and preferably substituted on carbon atom 2 with: a) a (di)(Cl-C6)(alkyl)amino group, said alkyl group possibly being substituted with at least one hydroxyl, amino or imidazolium group; b) an optionally cationic 5- to 7-membered heterocycloalkyl group comprising from 1 to 3 heteroatoms, optionally substituted with one or more (Cl- C6)alkyl groups such as a di(Cl-C4)alkylpiperazinium group; or c) a (Cl-C6)alkoxy group optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, such as a P-hydroxyalkoxy group, and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and/or the solvates of their salts.
  • the pyrimidine derivatives which may be mentioned include the compounds described, for example, in patents DE 2359399, JP 88-169571, JP 05-63124 and EP 0 770 375 or patent application WO 96/15765, such as 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4- hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4- dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine, 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine and their addition salts and their tautomeric forms, when a tautomeric equilibrium exists.
  • pyrazole derivatives that may be mentioned are the compounds described in patents DE 3843892 and DE 4133957 and patent applications WO 94/08969, WO 94/08970, FR-A-2 733 749 and DE 195 43 988, for instance 4,5- diamino-l-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino- l-(P-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole, 3,4- diaminopyrazole, 4,5-diamino- l-(4'-chlorobenzyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino- 1,3- dimethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl- 1-phenylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino- l-methyl-3- phenylpyrazole, 4-amino-l,3-dimethyl-5-hydrazinopyrazole, l-benzyl-4,5-diamino-3- methylpyrazole,
  • 4,5-diamino-l-(P-methoxyethyl)pyrazole Use may also be made of 4,5-diamino-l-(P-methoxyethyl)pyrazole.
  • a 4,5-diaminopyrazole will preferably be used and even more preferentially 4,5-diamino-l-(P-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and/or a corresponding salt, the solvates and/or the solvates of its salts.
  • pyrazole derivatives that may also be mentioned comprise diamino-N,N- dihydropyrazolopyrazolones and in particular those described in patent application FR- A-2 886 136, such as the following compounds and the corresponding addition salts: 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2-amino-3- ethylamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2-amino-3- isopropylamino-6,7 -dihydro- 1 H,5H-pyrazolo [ 1 ,2- a]pyrazol- 1 -one, 2-amino-3-
  • Use will preferably be made of 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H- pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one and/or a corresponding salt, a solvate and/or a solvate of its salts.
  • Use will preferably be made, as heterocyclic bases, of 4,5-diamino- 1-(P- hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and/or 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2- a]pyrazol-l-one and/or 2-P-hydroxyethoxy-3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine and/or a corresponding salt, a solvate and/or a solvate of its salts.
  • the oxidation base(s) is/are chosen from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases, and the corresponding addition salts, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-P-hydroxyethyl-para- phenylenediamine, 2-y-hydroxypropyl-para-phenylenediamine, and their addition salts, their solvates and/or the solvates of their salts and mixtures thereof.
  • the oxidation base(s) is/are present in a total content ranging from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5%, even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises one or more oxidation bases, preferentially chosen from 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-P-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-y-hydroxypropyl-para- phenylenediamine, and their addition salts, their solvates and/or the solvates of their salts and mixtures thereof.
  • oxidation bases preferentially chosen from 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-P-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-y-hydroxypropyl-para- phenylenediamine, and their addition salts, their solvates and/or the solvates of their salts and mixtures thereof.
  • the oxidation base(s) chosen from 2- methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-P-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-y-hydroxypropyl-para-phenylenediamine, their addition salts, their solvates and/or the solvates of their salts and mixtures thereof is/are present in a total content ranging from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5%, even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention is free from oxidation bases chosen from para-phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, their addition salts, their solvates and the solvates of their salts.
  • the weight ratio between the total content of oxidation base(s) and the total content of oxidation couplers chosen from 6- hydroxybenzomorpholine of formula (II), hydroxy ethyl-3,4-methylenedioxy aniline of formula (III), one of their addition salts, their solvates and/or the solvates of their salts is between 0.1 and 10, better still between 0.5 and 5.
  • the weight ratio between the total content of oxidation base(s) and the total content of oxidation couplers is between 0.1 and 10, better still between 0.5 and 5.
  • composition according to the invention may comprise one or more fatty substances.
  • Useful fatty substances according to the invention may be liquid fatty substances (or oils) and/or solid fatty substances.
  • a liquid fatty substance is understood to be a fatty substance having a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013xl0 5 Pa).
  • a solid fatty substance is understood to be a fatty substance having a melting point of greater than 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013xl0 5 Pa).
  • the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed on thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in the standard ISO 11357-3; 1999.
  • the melting point may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by the company TA Instruments.
  • DSC differential scanning calorimeter
  • all the melting points are determined at atmospheric pressure (1.013xl0 5 Pa).
  • fatty substance is understood to mean an organic compound that is insoluble in water at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (1.013xl0 5 Pa) (solubility of less than 5% by weight, and preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferentially less than 0.1% by weight). They bear in their structure at least one hydrocarbon-based chain including at least 6 carbon atoms and/or a sequence of at least two siloxane groups.
  • the fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for instance chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), liquid petroleum jelly or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.
  • organic solvents for instance chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), liquid petroleum jelly or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.
  • the fatty substances that may be used in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated.
  • useful fatty substances according to the invention are non-silicone.
  • non-silicone fatty substance is intended to mean a fatty substance not containing any Si-0 bonds and the term “silicone fatty substance” is intended to mean a fatty substance containing at least one Si-0 bond.
  • liquid fatty substance(s) according to the invention is/are chosen from C6 to C16 liquid hydrocarbons, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin, oils of triglyceride type of plant or synthetic origin, fluoro oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of a fatty acid and/or of a fatty alcohol other than triglycerides, and silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.
  • the fatty alcohols, esters and acids more particularly contain at least one saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based group, comprising from 6 to 40 and better still from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally substituted, in particular, with one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
  • these C6 to C16 liquid hydrocarbons these may be linear, branched, or optionally cyclic, and are preferably chosen from alkanes.
  • Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane or isoparaffins, such as isohexadecane or isodecane, and mixtures thereof.
  • the liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms may be linear or branched, and of mineral or synthetic origin, and are preferably chosen from liquid paraffins or liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®, and mixtures thereof.
  • a hydrocarbon-based oil of animal origin that may be mentioned is perhydrosqualene.
  • the triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from liquid fatty acid triglycerides comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, com oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea butter oil, and mixtures thereof.
  • fluoro oils they may be chosen from perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro- 1,3 -dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names Flutec® PCI and Flutec® PC3 by the company BNFE Fluorochemicals; perfluoro- 1,2 -dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names PF 5050® and PF 5060® by the company 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name Foralkyl® by the company Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives such as 4-trifluoromethylperfluoromorpholine sold under the name PF 5052® by the company 3M.
  • the liquid fatty alcohols that are suitable for use in the invention are more particularly chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alcohols, preferably unsaturated or branched alcohols, comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • Examples that may be mentioned include octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, ricinoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol and linoleyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
  • liquid esters of fatty acids and/or of fatty alcohols other than the triglycerides mentioned previously, mention may be made notably of esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear Cl to C26 or branched C3 to C26 aliphatic mono- or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear Cl to C26 or branched C3 to C26 aliphatic mono- or polyalcohols, the total carbon number of the esters being greater than or equal to 6 and more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.
  • At least one from among the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the invention are derived is branched.
  • dihydroabietyl behenate octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate; octyldodecy
  • ethyl palmitate ethyl palmitate
  • isopropyl palmitate alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate
  • isocetyl stearate 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate
  • isodecyl neopentanoate isostearyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.
  • esters of C4 to C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of Cl to C22 alcohols and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C2 to C26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
  • composition may also comprise, as fatty ester, sugar esters and diesters of C6 to C30 and preferably C12 to C22 fatty acids.
  • sugar esters and diesters of C6 to C30 and preferably C12 to C22 fatty acids.
  • sugar esters and diesters of C6 to C30 and preferably C12 to C22 fatty acids.
  • sugar esters are intended to mean oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds bearing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms.
  • sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.
  • suitable sugars include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, notably alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance methylglucose.
  • the sugar esters of fatty acids may be notably chosen from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6 to C30 and preferably C12 to C22 fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
  • esters according to this variant may also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetraesters, polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
  • esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates, arachidonates or mixtures thereof notably such as the mixed oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate and palmito- stearate esters.
  • monoesters and diesters and notably sucrose, glucose or methylglucose mono- or dioleates, -stearates, -behenates, - oleopalmitates, -linoleates, -linolenates and -oleostearates, and mixtures thereof.
  • liquid ester of a monoacid and of a monoalcohol Preferably, use will be made of a liquid ester of a monoacid and of a monoalcohol.
  • the silicone oils that may be used in the composition according to the present invention may be volatile or nonvolatile, cyclic, linear or branched silicone oils, which are unmodified or modified with organic groups, and preferably have a viscosity from 5xl0 -6 to 2.5 m 2 /s at 25°C, and preferably IxlO -5 to 1 m 2 /s.
  • the silicone oils are chosen from poly dialkylsiloxanes, notably polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), and liquid polyorganosiloxanes including at least one aryl group. These silicone oils may also be organomodified.
  • the organomodified silicone oils that may be used in accordance with the invention are preferably liquid silicones as defined above and including in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group, chosen, for example, from amine groups and alkoxy groups.
  • Organopolysiloxanes are defined in greater detail in Walter Noll’s Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press. They may be volatile or nonvolatile.
  • silicone oils are more particularly chosen from those with a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly from:
  • cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes including from 3 to 7 and preferably from 4 to 5 silicon atoms.
  • cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes including from 3 to 7 and preferably from 4 to 5 silicon atoms.
  • octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane notably sold under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 by Rhodia
  • decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Volatile Silicone® 7158 by Union Carbide
  • Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia
  • cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane type such as Volatile Silicone® FZ 3109 sold by the company Union Carbide.
  • linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity of less than or equal to 5xl0 -6 m 2 /s at 25°C.
  • An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane notably sold under the name SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone. Silicones falling within this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pp. 27-32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics.
  • Nonvolatile polydialkylsiloxanes are preferably used.
  • silicone oils are more particularly chosen from poly dialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of polydimethylsiloxanes bearing trimethylsilyl end groups.
  • the viscosity of the silicones is measured at 25°C according to the standard ASTM 445, Appendix C.
  • poly dialkylsiloxanes mention may be made, in a nonlimiting manner, of the following commercial products:
  • oils of the 200 series from the company Dow Corning such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60000 mm 2 /s;
  • CTFA dimethiconol
  • organomodified silicones that may be used in accordance with the invention are silicones as defined previously and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.
  • liquid polyorganosiloxanes including at least one aryl group may notably be poly diphenylsiloxanes, and poly alkylarylsiloxanes functionalized with the organofunctional groups mentioned previously.
  • the polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from linear and/or branched polydimethyl/methylphenylsiloxanes and polydimethyl/diphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity ranging from IxlO -5 to 5xl0 -2 m 2 /s at 25°C.
  • oils of the SF series from General Electric such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.
  • organomodified silicones mention may be made of polyorganosiloxanes including:
  • substituted or unsubstituted amino groups such as the products sold under the names GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by the company Genesee or the products sold under the names Q2 8220 and Dow Coming 929 or 939 by the company Dow Coming.
  • the substituted amino groups are in particular Cl to C4 aminoalkyl groups;
  • the solid fatty substances according to the invention preferably have a viscosity of greater than 2 Pa.s, measured at 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s’ 1 .
  • the solid fatty substance(s) is/are preferably chosen from solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and/or of fatty alcohols, waxes, ceramides and mixtures thereof.
  • fatty acids in the case of solid fatty substances, is intended to mean a long-chain carboxylic acid comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • the solid fatty acids according to the invention preferentially comprise from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. They may possibly be hydroxylated. These fatty acids are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated.
  • the solid fatty acids that may be used in the present invention are notably chosen from myristic acid, cetylic acid, palmitic acid, arachidic acid, stearic acid, lauric acid, behenic acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid, and mixtures thereof.
  • the solid fatty acid(s) is/are chosen from lauric acid, myristic acid, cetylic acid, palmitic acid, and stearic acid.
  • fatty alcohol is intended to mean a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and comprising at least one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated.
  • the solid fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated, and linear or branched, and include from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • the solid fatty alcohols have the structure R-OH with R denoting a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40, preferentially from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 and even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • the solid fatty alcohols that may be used are preferably chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, preferably linear and saturated, (mono)alcohols including from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 and better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • the solid fatty alcohols that may be used may be chosen, alone or as a mixture, from: myristyl alcohol (or 1 -tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol (or 1 -hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (or 1 -octadecanol); arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (or 1- docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol); ceryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol); montanyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol); myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).
  • the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol.
  • the solid fatty alcohol is cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol.
  • the solid esters of a fatty acid and/or of a fatty alcohol that may be used are preferably chosen from esters derived from a C9-C26 carboxylic fatty acid and/or from a C9-C26 fatty alcohol.
  • these solid fatty esters are esters of a linear or branched, saturated carboxylic acid including at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and of a linear or branched, saturated monoalcohol, including at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms.
  • the saturated carboxylic acids may be optionally hydroxylated, and are preferably monocarboxylic acids.
  • Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22 alcohols and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C2-C26 dihydroxylated, trihydroxylated, tetrahydroxylated or pentahydroxylated alcohols may also be used.
  • the solid esters of a fatty acid and/or of a fatty alcohol are chosen from C9-C26 alkyl palmitates, notably myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate or stearyl palmitate; C9-C26 alkyl myristates, such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyl myristate; and C9-C26 alkyl stearates, notably myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate and stearyl stearate; and mixtures thereof.
  • C9-C26 alkyl palmitates notably myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate or stearyl palmitate
  • C9-C26 alkyl myristates such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyl myristate
  • C9-C26 alkyl stearates notably myristyl stearate, cety
  • a wax is a lipophilic compound, which is solid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, with a reversible solid/liquid change of state, having a melting point greater than about 40°C, which may range up to 200°C, and having in the solid state an anisotropic crystal organization.
  • the size of the wax crystals is such that the crystals diffract and/or scatter light, giving the composition that comprises them a more or less opaque cloudy appearance.
  • the waxes that are suitable for use in the invention may be chosen from waxes of animal, plant or mineral origin, non- silicone synthetic waxes, and mixtures thereof.
  • hydrocarbon-based waxes for instance beeswax, notably of biological origin, lanolin wax and Chinese insect waxes; rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japan wax and sumac wax; montan wax, orange wax, lemon wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, the waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, and also esters thereof.
  • beeswax notably of biological origin, lanolin wax and Chinese insect waxes
  • rice bran wax carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japan wax and sumac wax
  • montan wax orange wax, lemon wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite
  • polyethylene waxes the waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch
  • C20 to C60 microcrystalline waxes such as Microwax HW.
  • isomerized jojoba oil such as transisomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, in particular the product manufactured or sold by the company Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil and bis( 1,
  • the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol may also be used.
  • wax use may also be made of a C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture.
  • Such a wax is notably sold under the names Kester Wax K 82 P®, Hydroxypolyester K 82 P® and Kester Wax K 80 P® by the company Koster Keunen.
  • microwaxes in the compositions of the invention; mention may notably be made of carnauba microwaxes, such as the product sold under the name MicroCare 350® by the company Micro Powders, synthetic-wax microwaxes, such as the product sold under the name MicroEase 114S® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes constituted of a mixture of carnauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as the products sold under the names Micro Care 300® and 310® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes constituted of a mixture of carnauba wax and of synthetic wax, such as the product sold under the name Micro Care 325® by the company Micro Powders, polyethylene microwaxes, such as the products sold under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by the company Micro Powders, and polytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes, such as the products sold under the names Microslip 519® and 519 L® by the company Micro Powders.
  • the waxes are preferably chosen from mineral waxes, for instance paraffin, petroleum jelly, lignite or ozokerite wax; plant waxes, for instance cocoa butter or cork fibre or sugar cane waxes, olive tree wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, ouricury wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, esparto grass wax, or absolute waxes of flowers, such as the blackcurrant blossom essential wax sold by the company Bertin (France); waxes of animal origin, for instance beeswaxes or modified beeswaxes (cera bellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; microcrystalline waxes; and mixtures thereof.
  • mineral waxes for instance paraffin, petroleum jelly, lignite or ozokerite wax
  • plant waxes for instance cocoa butter or cork fibre or sugar cane waxes, olive tree wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, ouricury wax, carnauba wax,
  • ceramides or ceramide analogues such as glycoceramides, that may be used in the compositions according to the invention, are known; mention may in particular be made of ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the Dawning classification.
  • ceramides or analogues thereof that may be used preferably correspond to the following formula: R 3 CH(OH)CH(CH2OR 2 )(NHCOR 1 ), in which:
  • R 1 denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group, derived from C14-C30 fatty acids, it being possible for this group to be substituted with a hydroxyl group in the alpha position, or a hydroxyl group in the omega position esterified with a saturated or unsaturated C16-C30 fatty acid;
  • R 2 denotes a hydrogen atom, a (glycosyl)n group, a (galactosyl)m group or a sulfogalactosyl group, in which n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8;
  • R 3 denotes a C15-C26 hydrocarbon-based group, saturated or unsaturated in the alpha position, it being possible for this group to be substituted with one or more C1-C14 alkyl groups; it being understood that in the case of natural ceramides or glycoceramides, R 3 may also denote a C15-C26 alpha-hydroxyalkyl group, the hydroxyl group being optionally esterified by a C16-C30 alpha-hydroxy acid.
  • the ceramides that are more particularly preferred are the compounds for which R 1 denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from C16-C22 fatty acids; R 2 denotes a hydrogen atom and R 3 denotes a saturated linear C15 group.
  • R 1 denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical derived from C12-C22 fatty acids
  • R 2 denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl radical
  • 2-N-linoleoylaminooctadecane-l,3-diol 2-N-oleoylaminooctadecane- 1,3 -diol
  • the solid fatty substances are preferably chosen from solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one liquid fatty substance, preferentially chosen from liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, plant oils, liquid fatty alcohols and liquid fatty esters, silicone oils and mixtures thereof.
  • the liquid fatty substance(s) is/are chosen from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, in particular liquid petroleum jelly, liquid fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one solid fatty substance, preferentially chosen from solid fatty alcohols.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one liquid fatty substance and at least one solid fatty substance, preferentially at least one liquid fatty alcohol and at least one solid fatty alcohol.
  • the total content of fatty substance(s) preferably ranges from 5% to 80% by weight, more preferentially from 8% to 70% by weight and better still from 10% to 65% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises one or more fatty substances, the total content of fatty substance(s) preferably ranging from 30% to 80% by weight, more preferentially from 35% to 70% by weight and better still from 40% to 65% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises one or more liquid fatty substances, the total content of liquid fatty substance(s) preferably ranging from 30% to 80% by weight, more preferentially from 35% to 70% by weight and better still from 40% to 65% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention may comprise one or more surfactants which are different from oxyethylenated C8-C3O fatty acid esters of sorbitan. These may be chosen preferably from anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants and cationic surfactants and/or mixtures thereof.
  • anionic surfactant is understood to mean a surfactant including, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups. These anionic groups are preferably chosen from the groups CO 2 H, CO2-, SO 3 H, SO3-, OSO3H, OSO3-, H2PO3, HPO3-, PO 3 2-, H2PO2, HPO2-, PO 2 2-, POH and PO-.
  • anionic surfactants that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl poly ether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, alkyl sulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylaryl sulfonates, a-olefinsulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, acyl sarcosinates, acyl glutamates, alkyl sulfosuccinamates, acyl isethionates and N-(C1-C4)alkyl N-acyltaurates, salts of alkyl
  • These compounds may be oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units.
  • the salts of C6-C24 alkyl monoesters and of polyglycoside -polycarboxylic acids may be chosen from C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates.
  • anionic surfactant(s) When the anionic surfactant(s) is/are in salt form, it/they may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt and preferably the sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts or alkaline-earth metal salts such as the magnesium salt.
  • alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt and preferably the sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts or alkaline-earth metal salts such as the magnesium salt.
  • amino alcohol salts examples include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2- methyl-1 -propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-l,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.
  • Alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.
  • the anionic surfactants that are optionally present may be mild anionic surfactants, i.e. anionic surfactants without a sulfate function.
  • mild anionic surfactants mention may be made in particular of the following compounds and salts thereof, and also mixtures thereof: polyoxyalkylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated alkylaryl ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated alkylamido ether carboxylic acids, in particular those comprising 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, alkyl D-galactoside uronic acids, acyl sarcosinates, acyl glutamates and alkylpoly glyco side carboxylic esters.
  • Use may be made very particularly of polyoxyalkylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acids, for instance lauryl ether carboxylic acid (4.5 EO) sold, for example, under the name Akypo RLM 45 CA from Kao.
  • lauryl ether carboxylic acid 4.5 EO
  • anionic surfactants such as the alkyl sulfates or alkyl ether sulfates, and the acyl glutamates, more preferentially the alkyl sulfates.
  • nonionic surfactant(s) different from oxyethylenated C8-C3O fatty acid esters of sorbitan that may be used in the composition of the present invention are in particular described, for example, in the Handbook of Surfactants by M.R. Porter, published by Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp 116-178.
  • the nonionic surfactants that may be used in the invention are different from the oxyethylenated fatty acid esters of sorbitan described above.
  • nonionic surfactants examples include the following compounds, alone or as a mixture:
  • (C8-C30)alkyl(poly)glucosides and (C8-C30)alkenyl(poly)glucosides which are optionally oxyalkylenated (0 to 10 oxyalkylene units) and comprise from 1 to 15 glucose units, (C8-C30)alkyl(poly)glucoside esters;
  • They are notably chosen from alcohols, a-diols and (Cl-C20)alkylphenols, these compounds being ethoxylated, propoxylated or glycerolated and bearing at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups possibly ranging notably from 1 to 200, and the number of glycerol groups possibly ranging notably from 1 to 30.
  • the nonionic surfactants are preferably chosen from ethoxylated C8-C24 fatty alcohols comprising from 1 to 200 ethylene oxide groups, (C6-C24 alkyl)polyglycosides and mixtures thereof.
  • the cationic surfactant(s) that may be used in the composition according to the invention are generally chosen from optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.
  • the fatty amines generally comprise at least one C8-C3O hydrocarbon-based chain.
  • examples that may be mentioned include stearylamidopropyldimethylamine and distearylamine.
  • quaternary ammonium salts for example, of:
  • the groups Rs to Rn which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group including from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups Rs to Rn including from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms.
  • the aliphatic groups may include heteroatoms notably such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens.
  • the aliphatic groups are chosen, for example, from C1-C30 alkyl, C1-C30 alkoxy, polyoxy(C2-C6)alkylene, C1-C30 alkylamide, (C12-C22)alkylamido(C2- C6)alkyl, (C12-C22)alkyl acetate and C1-C30 hydroxyalkyl groups,
  • X’ is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (Cl-C4)alkyl sulfates, (Cl-C4)alkylsulfonates or (Cl-C4)alkylarylsulfonates.
  • quaternary ammonium salts of formula (X) preference is given, firstly, to tetraalkylammonium chlorides, for instance dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group comprises from about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride, or else, secondly, to distearoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate or distearoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, or else, finally, to palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride or stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate) ammoni
  • R12 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, derived, for example, from tallow fatty acids
  • R13 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms
  • R14 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group
  • R15 represents a hydrogen atom or a Cl- C4 alkyl group
  • X’ is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (Cl-C4)alkyl sulfates, (Cl-C4)alkylsulfonates or (Cl-C4)alkylarylsulfonates.
  • R12 and R13 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups comprising from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R14 denotes a methyl group and R15 denotes a hydrogen atom.
  • R12 and R13 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups comprising from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids
  • R14 denotes a methyl group
  • R15 denotes a hydrogen atom.
  • Such a product is sold, for example, under the name Rewoquat® W 75 by the company Rewo;
  • Ri6 denotes an alkyl group containing approximately from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and/or interrupted with one or more oxygen atoms
  • R17 is chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group -(CH2)3-N+(Ri6a)(Ri7a)(Ri8a)
  • Ri6a, Ri7a, Ri8a, Ris, R19, R20 and R21 which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms
  • X’ is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (Cl-C4)alkyl sulfates, (Cl- C4)alkylsulfonates or (Cl-C4)alkylarylsulf
  • Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P, sold by the company Finetex (Quatemium 89), and Finquat CT, sold by the company Finetex (Quaternium 75);
  • R22 is chosen from C1-C6 alkyl groups and C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups
  • R23 is chosen from: the group -C(O)R26, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C22 hydrocarbon-based groups R27, a hydrogen atom
  • R25 is chosen from: the group -C(O)R28, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Cl- C6 hydrocarbon-based groups R29, a hydrogen atom
  • R24, R26 and R28 which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7- C21 hydrocarbon-based groups
  • r, s and t which may be identical or different, are integers from 2 to 6
  • rl and tl which may be identical or different, are 0 or 1
  • y is an integer from 1 to 10, x and
  • the alkyl groups R22 may be linear or branched, and more particularly linear.
  • R22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.
  • the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10.
  • R23 is a hydrocarbon-based group R27, it may be long and contain from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and contain from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
  • R25 is a hydrocarbon-based group R29, it preferably contains 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
  • R24, R26 and R28 which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Cl 1-C21 hydrocarbon-based groups, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Cl l- C21 alkyl and alkenyl groups.
  • x and z which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1.
  • y is equal to 1.
  • r, s and t which may be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.
  • the anion X’ is preferably a halide, preferably chloride, bromide or iodide, a (Cl-C4)alkyl sulfate, (Cl-C4)alkylsulfonate or (Cl-C4)alkylarylsulfonate.
  • a halide preferably chloride, bromide or iodide
  • a (Cl-C4)alkyl sulfate, (Cl-C4)alkylsulfonate or (Cl-C4)alkylarylsulfonate preferably a halide, preferably chloride, bromide or iodide, a (Cl-C4)alkyl sulfate, (Cl-C4)alkylsulfonate or (Cl-C4)alkylarylsulfonate.
  • methanesulfonate phosphate, nitrate, tosylate
  • an anion derived from an organic acid such
  • the anion X’ is more particularly still chloride, methyl sulfate or ethyl sulfate.
  • Use is made more particularly, in the composition according to the invention, of the ammonium salts of formula (XIII) in which: R22 denotes a methyl or ethyl group, x and y are equal to 1, z is equal to 0 or 1, r, s and t are equal to 2;
  • R23 is chosen from: the group -C(O)R26, methyl, ethyl or C14-C22 hydrocarbon-based groups, a hydrogen atom,
  • R25 is chosen from: the group -C(O)R28, a hydrogen atom, R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 hydrocarbon-based groups, and preferably from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups.
  • the hydrocarbon-based groups are linear.
  • acyl groups preferably contain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are derived more particularly from a plant oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these groups may be identical or different.
  • This esterification is followed by a quaternization by means of an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl halide, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably dimethyl or diethyl sulfate, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para- toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.
  • an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl halide, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably dimethyl or diethyl sulfate, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para- toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.
  • Such compounds are sold, for example, under the names Dehyquart® by the company Henkel, Stepanquat® by the company Stepan, Noxamium® by the company CECA or Rewoquat® WE 18 by the company Rewo-Witco.
  • composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium monoester, diester and triester salts with a weight majority of diester salts.
  • ammonium salts containing at least one ester function that are described in patents US-A-4 874 554 and US-A-4 137 180.
  • Use may also be made of the behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride sold, for example, by the company Kao under the name Quartamin BTC 131.
  • the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.
  • cetyltrimethylammonium behenyltrimethylammonium and dipalmitoylethylhydroxy ethylmethylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, and dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.
  • the surfactant(s) is/are chosen from anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants different from oxyethylenated C8-C3O fatty acid esters of sorbitan, and mixtures thereof.
  • the surfactant(s) is/are preferably chosen from nonionic surfactants different from oxyethylenated C8-C3O fatty acid esters of sorbitan, better still from ethoxylated C8-C24 fatty alcohols comprising from 1 to 200 ethylene oxide groups, (C6-C24 alkyl)polyglycosides, and mixtures thereof.
  • the total content of surfactant(s) different from oxyethylenated C8-C3O fatty acid esters of sorbitan in the composition preferably ranges from 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 8% by weight, even better still from 1% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the total content of nonionic surfactant(s) different from oxyethylenated C8-C3O fatty acid esters of sorbitan in the composition preferably ranges from 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 8% by weight, even better still from 1% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may comprise at least one sequestrant (or chelating agent).
  • a "sequestrant” (or “chelating agent”) is well known to those skilled in the art and refers to a compound or a mixture of compounds capable of forming a chelate with a metal ion.
  • a chelate is an inorganic complex in which a compound (the sequestrant or chelating agent) is coordinated to a metal ion, i.e. it forms one or more bonds with the metal ion (formation of a ring including the metal ion).
  • a sequestrant (or chelating agent) generally comprises at least two electrondonating atoms which enable the formation of bonds with the metal ion.
  • the sequestrant(s) may be chosen from carboxylic acids, preferably aminocarboxylic acids, phosphonic acids, preferably aminopho sphonic acids, polyphosphoric acids, preferably linear polyphosphoric acids, their salts, and derivatives thereof.
  • the salts are in particular alkali metal, alkaline-earth metal, ammonium and substituted ammonium salts.
  • carboxylic acids diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DTPA), ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS) and trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate such as Octaquest E30 from OCTEL, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), and its salts such as disodium EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA, ethylenediamine-N,N'-diglutaric acid (EDDG), glycinamide- N,N'-disuccinic acid (GADS), glycinamide-N,N'-disuccinic acid (GADS), 2- hydroxypropylenediamine-N,N'-disuccinic acid (HPDDS), ethylenediamine-N-N'- bis(ortho-hydroxyphenylacetic acid) (EDDHA), N,N'-bis(2- hydroxybenzyl)ethylenediamine-N,N'-diacetic acid (EDDA), N,N'-bis
  • chelating agents based on mono- or polypho sphonic acid diethylenetriaminepenta(methylenephosphonic acid) (DTPMP), ethane- 1 -hydroxy- 1,1, 2-triphosphonic acid (E1HTP), ethane-2-hydroxy- 1,1, 2-triphosphonic acid (E2HTP), ethane- l-hydroxy-l,l-triphosphonic acid (EHDP), ethane-1,1,2- tripho sphonic acid (ETP), ethy lenediaminetetrame thy lenepho sphonic acid (EDTMP), hydroxy ethane- 1,1 -dipho sphonic acid (HEDP, etidronic acid), and salts such as disodium etidronate, tetrasodium etidronate.
  • DTPMP diethylenetriaminepenta(methylenephosphonic acid)
  • E1HTP ethane- 1 -hydroxy- 1,1, 2-triphosphonic acid
  • the sequestrant(s) useful according to the invention is/are phosphorus-based sequestrants, i.e. sequestrants which comprise one or more phosphorus atoms, preferably at least two phosphorus atoms.
  • the phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) used in the composition according to the invention is/are preferably chosen from:
  • alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal preferably alkali metal, phosphates and pyrophosphates, such as sodium pyrophosphate, potassium pyrophosphate, sodium pyrophosphate decahydrate; and alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, preferably alkali metal, polyphosphates, such as sodium hexametaphosphate, sodium polyphosphate, sodium tripolyphosphate, sodium trimetaphosphate; which are optionally hydrated, and mixtures thereof;
  • organic phosphorus-based derivatives such as organic (poly)phosphates and (poly)phosphonates, such as etidronic acid and/or alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts thereof, for instance tetrasodium etidronate, disodium etidronate and mixtures thereof.
  • the phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) is/are chosen from linear or cyclic compounds comprising at least two phosphorus atoms bonded together covalently via at least one linker L comprising at least one oxygen atom and/or at least one carbon atom.
  • the phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) may be chosen from inorganic phosphorus-based derivatives, preferably comprising at least two phosphorus atoms. More preferentially, the phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) is/are chosen from alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal pyrophosphates, better still from alkali metal pyrophosphates, in particular sodium pyrophosphate (also known as tetrasodium pyrophosphate).
  • the phosphorus -based sequestrant(s) may be chosen from organic phosphorus-based derivatives, preferably comprising at least two phosphorus atoms. More preferentially, the phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) is/are chosen from etidronic acid (also known as 1 -hydroxy ethane- 1,1 -dipho sphonic acid) and/or alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, preferably alkali metal, salts thereof, for instance tetrasodium etidronate and disodium etidronate.
  • etidronic acid also known as 1 -hydroxy ethane- 1,1 -dipho sphonic acid
  • alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal preferably alkali metal, salts thereof, for instance tetrasodium etidronate and disodium etidronate.
  • the phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) is/are chosen from alkali metal pyrophosphates, etidronic acid and/or alkali metal salts thereof, and a mixture of these compounds.
  • the phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) is/are chosen from tetrasodium etidronate, disodium etidronate, etidronic acid, tetrasodium pyrophosphate, and a mixture of these compounds.
  • the sequestrants are preferably chosen from diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DTP A) and salts thereof, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and salts thereof, ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS) and salts thereof, etidronic acid and salts thereof, N,N- dicarboxymethylglutamic acid and salts thereof, N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid and salts thereof (GLDA) and mixtures thereof.
  • DTP A diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid
  • EDTA ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid
  • EDDS ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid
  • etidronic acid and salts thereof N,N- dicarboxymethylglutamic acid and salts thereof, N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid and salts thereof (GLDA) and mixtures thereof.
  • the alkali metal salts and especially the sodium or potassium salts are preferred.
  • the total content of the sequestrant(s) preferably ranges from 0.001% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.01% to 8% by weight, even better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention may comprise one or more mineral, organic or hybrid alkaline agents.
  • composition according to the present invention comprises one or more mineral, organic or hybrid alkaline agents.
  • alkaline agent and “basifying agent” are used interchangeably.
  • the mineral basifying agent(s) is/are preferably chosen from aqueous ammonia, alkali metal carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium (hydrogen)carbonate and potassium (hydrogen)carbonate, alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal phosphates such as sodium phosphates or potassium phosphates, sodium hydroxides or potassium hydroxides, and mixtures thereof.
  • the organic basifying agent(s) is/are preferably chosen from alkanolamines, amino acids, organic amines, oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, 1,3 -diaminopropane, l,3-diamino-2-propanol, spermine or spermidine and mixtures thereof.
  • alkanolamine is intended to mean an organic amine comprising a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, and one or more linear or branched Cl- C8 alkyl groups bearing one or more hydroxyl radicals.
  • organic amines chosen from alkanolamines such as monoalkanolamines, dialkanolamines or trialkanolamines comprising one to three identical or different Cl -C4 hydroxy alkyl radicals.
  • the alkanolamine(s) is/are chosen from monoethanolamine (MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl- 1-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-l,3-propanediol, 3-amino-l,2-propanediol, 3- dimethylamino-l,2-propanediol, tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane and mixtures thereof.
  • MEA monoethanolamine
  • diethanolamine triethanolamine
  • monoisopropanolamine diisopropanolamine
  • diisopropanolamine N,N-dimethylethanolamine
  • 2-amino-2-methyl- 1-propanol triisopropanolamine
  • 2-amino-2-methyl-l,3-propanediol 3-amino-l,2-
  • the amino acids are basic amino acids comprising an additional amine function.
  • Such basic amino acids are preferably chosen from histidine, lysine, arginine, ornithine and citrulline.
  • the organic amine can also be chosen from organic amines of heterocyclic type. Besides histidine that has already been mentioned in the amino acids, mention may in particular be made of pyridine, piperidine, imidazole, triazole, tetrazole and benzimidazole.
  • the organic amine can also be chosen from amino acid dipeptides. As amino acid dipeptides that can be used in the present invention, mention may notably be made of carnosine, anserine and balenine.
  • the organic amine may also be chosen from compounds comprising a guanidine function.
  • amines of this type different from arginine that may be used in the present invention, mention may notably be made of creatine, creatinine, 1,1 -dimethylguanidine, 1,1 -diethylguanidine, glycocyamine, metformin, agmatine, N-amidoalanine, 3-guanidinopropionic acid, 4-guanidinobutyric acid and 2-([amino(imino)methyl]amino)ethane-l -sulfonic acid.
  • Use may be made in particular of guanidine carbonate or monoethanolamine hydrochloride as hybrid compounds.
  • the alkaline agent(s) that may be used according to the invention is/are preferably chosen from alkanolamines such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine; aqueous ammonia, carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium (hydrogen)carbonate and potassium (hydrogen)carbonate and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from aqueous ammonia and alkanolamines, better still from alkanolamines.
  • alkanolamines such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine
  • aqueous ammonia, carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium (hydrogen)carbonate and potassium (hydrogen)carbonate and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from aqueous ammonia and alkanolamines, better still from alkanolamines.
  • the total content of the alkaline agent(s) preferably ranges from 0.1% to 40% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 30% by weight, better still from 1% to 20% by weight, even better still from 2% to 10%
  • the pH of the composition comprising at least one alkaline agent is between 8 and 13; preferably between 9 and 12.
  • the pH of the composition may be adjusted to the desired value by means of acidic or alkaline agent(s) commonly used in the dyeing of keratin fibres, such as those described hereinabove, or alternatively using buffer systems known to those skilled in the art.
  • composition according to the invention may optionally additionally comprise one or more chemical oxidizing agents.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises one or more chemical oxidizing agents.
  • composition according to the invention does not comprise chemical oxidizing agents.
  • the composition according to the invention is preferably mixed at the moment of use with at least one composition comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents.
  • chemical oxidizing agent is understood to mean an oxidizing agent other than atmospheric oxygen.
  • the chemical oxidizing agent(s) which may be used in the present invention may be chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, persalts, such as perborates and persulfates, in particular sodium persulfate, potassium persulfate and ammonium persulfate, peracids and oxidase enzymes (with their optional cofactors), among which mention may be made of peroxidases, 2-electron oxidoreductases, such as uricases, and 4-electron oxygenases, such as laccases, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially, the chemical oxidizing agent(s) is/are chosen from hydrogen peroxide, persalts, and mixtures thereof, more preferably still hydrogen peroxide.
  • the chemical oxidizing agent(s) is/are present in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 35% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 25% by weight, even more preferentially from 1% to 15% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
  • the chemical oxidizing agent(s) chosen from hydrogen peroxide, persalts and mixtures thereof is/are present in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 35% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 25% by weight, even more preferentially from 1% to 15% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may contain any adjuvant or additive usually used.
  • additives which may be present in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of reducing agents, thickeners, softeners, antifoams, moisturizers, UV-screening agents, peptizers, solubilizers, fragrances, anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric polymers or mixtures thereof, antidandruff agents, antiseborrheic agents, vitamins and provitamins including panthenol, sunscreens, sequestrants, plasticizers, solubilizing agents, acidifying agents, mineral or organic thickeners, especially polymeric thickeners, antioxidants, hydroxy acids, fragrances and preserving agents.
  • reducing agents thickeners, softeners, antifoams, moisturizers, UV-screening agents, peptizers, solubilizers, fragrances, anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric polymers or mixtures thereof, antidandruff agents, antiseborrheic agents, vitamins and provitamins including panth
  • the above additives may generally be present in an amount, for each of them, of between 0 and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the present invention also relates to a process for dyeing keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, wherein the composition as described previously is applied to said fibres.
  • the composition according to the invention is a composition for dyeing keratin fibres, such as the hair.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises one or more oxidation bases, preferentially chosen from 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-P-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-y-hydroxypropyl-para- phenylenediamine, and their addition salts, their solvates and/or the solvates of their salts and mixtures thereof.
  • composition according to the invention can be used on wet or dry keratin fibres, and also on all types of fair or dark, natural or dyed, permanent- waved, bleached or relaxed, fibres.
  • the fibres are washed before application of the composition described above.
  • composition of the invention to the keratin fibres can be carried out by any conventional means, in particular by means of a comb, a fine brush, a coarse brush or with the fingers.
  • the dyeing process i.e. application of the dye composition to the keratin fibres, is generally carried out at ambient temperature (between 15 and 25 °C).
  • composition according to the invention may be applied to the keratin fibres for a leave-on time ranging from 30 to 60 minutes.
  • the keratin fibres may optionally undergo washing with a shampoo and/or be rinsed with water.
  • the dyeing process comprises at least the application, to said fibres, of a composition comprising:
  • At least one oxidation coupler chosen from 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine of formula (II) below, one of its addition salts, its solvates and/or solvates of its salts:
  • At least one oxidation coupler chosen from hydroxyethyl-3,4- methylenedioxyaniline of formula (III) below, one of its addition salts, its solvates and/or solvates of its salts: - one or more nonionic surfactants chosen from oxyethylenated C8-C3O fatty acid esters of sorbitan as described above,
  • oxidation bases as described above, preferably chosen from 2- methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-P-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-y-hydroxypropyl-para-phenylenediamine, and their addition salts, their solvates and/or the solvates of their salts and mixtures thereof,
  • one or more chemical oxidizing agents as described above, preferably hydrogen peroxide.
  • the dyeing process comprises at least the application, to said fibres, of a composition obtained by mixing, at the moment of use:
  • At least one oxidation coupler chosen from 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine of formula (II) below, one of its addition salts, its solvates and/or solvates of its salts:
  • At least one oxidation coupler chosen from hydroxyethyl-3,4- methylenedioxyaniline of formula (III) below, one of its addition salts, its solvates and/or solvates of its salts:
  • nonionic surfactants chosen from oxyethylenated C8-C3O fatty acid esters of sorbitan as described above,
  • oxidation bases as described above, preferably chosen from 2- methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-P-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-y-hydroxypropyl-para-phenylenediamine, and their addition salts, their solvates and/or the solvates of their salts and mixtures thereof, and
  • the oxidizing composition is preferably an aqueous composition. In particular, it comprises more than 5% by weight of water, preferably more than 10% by weight of water and even more advantageously more than 20% by weight of water.
  • It may also comprise one or more organic solvents chosen from those listed previously; these solvents more particularly representing, when they are present, from 1% to 40% by weight and preferably from 5% to 30% by weight, relative to the weight of the oxidizing composition.
  • the oxidizing composition also preferably comprises one or more acidifying agents.
  • acidifying agents examples that may be mentioned include mineral or organic acids, for instance hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids, for instance acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid or lactic acid, and sulfonic acids.
  • the oxidizing composition may additionally comprise fatty substances such as those described hereinabove, preferably chosen from fatty alcohols, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof, surfactants and polymers.
  • the pH of the oxidizing composition when it is aqueous, is less than 7.
  • the oxidizing composition comprises hydrogen peroxide as oxidizing agent, in aqueous solution, the concentration of which ranges, more particularly, from 0.1% to 50%, more particularly between 0.5% and 20% and even more preferentially between 1% and 15% by weight, relative to the weight of the oxidizing composition.
  • At least one of the (dyeing or oxidizing) compositions is aqueous.
  • the pH of the mixture obtained is preferably between 8 and 11, more preferentially between 9 and 10.7.
  • the pH may be adjusted to the desired value by means of acidifying or alkalinizing agents, or alternatively using buffer systems, as defined above.
  • the present invention also relates to the use of the composition according to the invention as described previously for dyeing keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair.
  • the invention furthermore relates to a multicompartment device comprising at least a first compartment containing the composition according to the invention as described hereinabove, and at least a second compartment containing one or more oxidizing agents as described hereinafter, preferably hydrogen peroxide.
  • compositions AO, Al and A2 (dye compositions) and composition B (oxidizing composition B) were prepared from the ingredients whose contents are indicated in the tables below (% active material unless otherwise mentioned):
  • the dye compositions AO, Al and A2 are mixed with 1 times their weight of the oxidizing composition B (6g% H2O2). Each of the mixtures is then applied to locks of hair containing 90% natural white (NW) hair, and sensitized (AS 20) locks of hair, in a proportion of 5 g of mixture per 1 g of hair.
  • Colorimetric measurements were performed using a KONICA MINOLTA CM-3600A spectrocolorimeter (illuminant D65, angle 10°, specular component included) in the CIELab system.
  • L* represents the lightness: the lower the value of L*, the deeper, more powerful and more intense the colouring obtained.
  • the chromaticity is measured by the values a* and b*, a* representing the green/red colour axis and b* the blue/yellow colour axis.
  • the selectivity is represented by the colour difference AE between the locks of dyed natural hair (NW) and the locks of dyed sensitized hair (AS20).
  • the AE value is calculated according to the following equation:
  • L*, a* and b* represent the values measured on dyed natural hair (NW) and L0*, aO* and bO* represent the values measured on dyed sensitized hair AS20.
  • the selectivity is represented by the colour difference AE between the dyed natural locks of hair and the dyed sensitized locks of hair: the lower the value of AE, the better the selectivity.
  • composition according to the invention leads to a lower value of AE, thus to a better selectivity, compared to the comparative compositions 1 and 2 according to the prior art.
  • the colourings obtained with the composition according to the invention are therefore more homogeneous than the colourings obtained with the comparative compositions.

Abstract

A subject of the present invention is a cosmetic composition comprising 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine of formula (II), hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline of formula (III) and at least one oxyethylenated fatty acid ester of sorbitan as nonionic surfactant. The present invention also relates to a process for dyeing keratin fibres, such as the hair, wherein the composition as described previously is applied to said fibres. Another subject of the present invention is the use of the composition according to the invention for dyeing keratin fibres such as the hair.

Description

DESCRIPTION
TITLE: Cosmetic composition comprising a combination of two particular couplers and an oxyethylenated fatty acid ester of sorbitan
A subject of the present invention is a cosmetic composition comprising 6- hydroxybenzomorpholine of formula (II), hydroxy ethyl-3,4-methylenedioxy aniline of formula (III) and at least one oxyethylenated fatty acid ester of sorbitan as nonionic surfactant.
The present invention also relates to a process for dyeing keratin fibres, such as the hair, wherein the composition as described previously is applied to said fibres.
Another subject of the present invention is the use of the composition according to the invention for the dyeing of keratin fibres such as the hair.
It is known practice to dye keratin fibres and in particular human hair with dye compositions containing oxidation dye precursors, such as oxidation bases, notably ortho- or para-phenylenediamines, ortho- or para-aminophenols and heterocyclic compounds. These oxidation bases are colourless or weakly coloured compounds, which, when combined with oxidizing products, are able to produce coloured compounds by a process of oxidative condensation.
It is also known that the shades obtained with these oxidation bases may be varied by combining them with couplers or colour modifiers, the latter being notably chosen from aromatic meta-diaminobenzenes, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols and certain heterocyclic compounds such as indole compounds.
The variety of molecules used as oxidation bases and couplers allows a wide range of colours to be obtained.
"Permanent" dyeing is characterized by the use of oxidation dye precursor(s) (bases and/or couplers) in the presence of oxidizing compound(s). In order to be considered as efficient dyeing, the latter needs to satisfy certain criteria. It must make it possible to obtain shades in the desired intensity with colour differences, between the end and the root of the same lock (also known as the selectivity), which are as small as possible.
The colouring must also be resistant over time and must not become degraded in the presence of external agents such as washing, light, bad weather, rubbing and perspiration.
However, the dyeing results obtained are not always very satisfactory, especially in terms of selectivity, of colour build-up, in particular for ensuring good coverage of the hair, more particularly of white hair, of chromaticity, of intensity and/or of persistence, in particular with respect to successive shampooing operations, or of resistance to light or to perspiration.
There is thus a real need to develop compositions that can dye keratin fibres in an intense, persistent, sparingly selective and chromatic manner, with good buildup of the colour, and which are capable of giving colourings that are resistant to the various attacking factors to which the fibres may be subjected, such as bad weather, washing and perspiration, and are also capable of resulting in good dyeing performance even after a period of storage.
A subject of the present invention is thus a cosmetic composition comprising:
- at least one oxidation coupler chosen from 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine of formula (II) below, one of its addition salts, its solvates and/or solvates of its salts:
Figure imgf000003_0001
- at least one oxidation coupler chosen from hydroxyethyl-3,4- methylenedioxyaniline of formula (III) below, one of its addition salts, its solvates and/or solvates of its salts:
Figure imgf000003_0002
- one or more nonionic surfactants chosen from oxyethylenated C8-C3O fatty acid esters of sorbitan.
The composition according to the invention, comprising a particular combination of two oxidation couplers and at least one oxyethylenated fatty acid ester of sorbitan as nonionic surfactant, makes it possible to achieve the above objectives, in particular in terms of intensity, colour build-up and selectivity of the dyeing of the keratin fibres, and also in terms of the colouring fastness, in particular with respect to shampooing operations.
The present invention also relates to a process for dyeing keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, wherein the composition as described previously is applied to said fibres. The present invention also relates to the use of the composition according to the invention for dyeing keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair.
The invention furthermore relates to a multicompartment device comprising at least a first compartment containing the composition according to the invention, and at least a second compartment containing one or more oxidizing agents as described hereinafter.
Other subjects, characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and the example that follows.
In the text which will follow, and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included in this range, in particular in the expressions "of between" and "ranging from ... to ...".
Moreover, the expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".
The composition according to the invention comprises at least two particular oxidation couplers.
6-Hydroxybenzomorpholine of formula (II)
The composition according to the invention comprises an oxidation coupler chosen from 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine of formula (II) below, one of its addition salts, its solvates and/or solvates of its salts:
Figure imgf000004_0001
Preferably, the oxidation coupler(s) chosen from 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine of formula (II), one of its addition salts, its solvates and/or solvates of its salts is/are present in a content ranging from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5%, even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
Hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline of formula (III) The composition according to the invention also comprises at least one oxidation coupler chosen from hydroxy ethyl-3,4-methylenedioxy aniline of formula (III) below, one of its addition salts, its solvates and/or solvates of its salts:
Figure imgf000005_0001
Preferably, the oxidation coupler(s) chosen from hydroxyethyl-3,4- methylenedioxyaniline of formula (III), one of its addition salts, its solvates and/or solvates of its salts is/are present in a total content ranging from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5%, even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Advantageously, the oxidation coupler(s) chosen from 6- hydroxybenzomorpholine of formula (II), one of its addition salts, its solvates and/or solvates of its salts is/are present in a content ranging from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5%, even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, and the oxidation coupler(s) chosen from hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline of formula (III), one of its addition salts, its solvates and/or solvates of its salts is/are present in a total content ranging from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5%, even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Advantageously, the total content of oxidation couplers chosen from 6- hydroxybenzomorpholine of formula (II), its addition salts, its solvates and/or solvates of its salts, and hydroxy ethyl-3,4-methylenedioxy aniline of formula (III), its addition salts, its solvates and/or solvates of its salts, ranges from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5%, even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Advantageously, the weight ratio between the content of oxidation couplers chosen from 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine of formula (II) and the content of oxidation couplers chosen from hydroxy ethyl-3,4-methylenedioxy aniline of formula (III), their addition salts, their solvates and/or the solvates of their salts is between 0.1 and 10, preferably between 0.4 and 5, more preferentially between 0.5 and 2.
Additional oxidation couplers
The composition according to the invention may optionally additionally comprise one or more oxidation couplers different from 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine of formula (II), hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline of formula (III), their addition salts, their solvates and/or the solvates of their salts.
These oxidation couplers are referred to herein as additional oxidation couplers.
By way of example, the additional oxidation couplers may be chosen from meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalene -based coupling agents, and heterocyclic coupling agents, and their corresponding addition salts.
Mention may be made, for example, of 1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 1,3- dihydroxy-2-methylbenzene, 4-chloro- 1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 2,4-diamino-l-(P- hydroxyethyloxy)benzene, 2-amino-4-(P-hy droxy ethylamino)- 1 -methoxybenzene, 1,3 -diaminobenzene, l,3-bis(2,4-diaminophenoxy)propane, 3-ureidoaniline, 3-ureido-
1 -dimethylaminobenzene, sesamol, a-naphthol, 2-methyl-l -naphthol, 6- hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxy-N-methylindole, 2-amino-3- hydroxypyridine, 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine, 2,6-bis(p- hy droxy ethylamino)toluene, 6-hydroxyindoline, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, 1- H-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, l-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 2,6- dimethylpyrazolo[l,5-b][l,2,4]triazole, 2,6-dimethyl[3,2-c][l,2,4]triazole and 6- methylpyrazolo[l,5-a]benzimidazole, 2-methyl-5-aminophenol, 2-amino-5- ethylphenol, 5-N-(P-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylphenol, 3-aminophenol, 3-amino-
2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 2-([3-amino-4-methoxyphenyl]amino)ethanol, the corresponding addition salts with an acid, the solvates and/or the solvates of the salts.
According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the additional oxidation coupler(s) is/are chosen from meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalene -based coupling agents, heterocyclic coupling agents, and their corresponding addition salts, their solvates and/or the solvates of their salts; even more preferentially 1,3-dihydroxybenzene, l,3-dihydroxy-2-methylbenzene, 3- aminophenol, 5-N-(P-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylphenol, 2,4-diamino- 1-(P- hydroxyethyloxy)benzene, 2-methyl-5-aminophenol, 2-amino-5-ethylphenol, 6- hydroxyindole, 4-chloro- 1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 3- amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, a-naphthol, 2-([3-amino-4- methoxyphenyl]amino)ethanol, their addition salts, their solvates and/or the solvates of their salts.
In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free from oxidation couplers chosen from resorcinol, 2-methylresorcinol, 4- chlororesorcinol, their addition salts, their solvates and the solvates of their salts.
Preferably, when they are present, the total content of additional oxidation couplers different from the couplers of formulae (II) and (III), their salts, their solvates and/or solvates of their salts ranges from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5%, even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
Preferably, the total content of oxidation couplers, their salts, their solvates and/or solvates of their salts ranges from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5%, even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
Oxyethylenated C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan
The composition according to the invention comprises one or more oxyethylenated C8-C3O fatty acid esters of sorbitan as nonionic surfactant.
The term “fatty acid” is intended to mean a carboxylic acid containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
These esters may be chosen from oxyethylenated C8 to C30 fatty acid monoesters and polyesters of sorbitan containing from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units, and preferably from oxyethylenated C12 to C24 fatty acid monoesters and polyesters of sorbitan containing from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units, more preferentially from oxyethylenated C12 to C24 fatty acid monoesters and polyesters of sorbitan containing from 4 to 10 ethylene oxide units. These compounds are known under the name Polysorbates. They are sold, inter alia, under the name Tween.
The polyoxyethylenated C8-C3O (preferably C12-C18) fatty acid esters (especially monoesters, diesters and triesters) of sorbitan especially containing from 2 to 20 mol of ethylene oxide may be chosen from polyoxyethylenated esters of C12- C18 fatty acids, in particular lauric, myristic, cetylic or stearic acid, and of sorbitan especially containing from 2 to 20 mol of ethylene oxide, such as:
- polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monolaurate (4 EO) (POLYSORBATE-21),
- polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monolaurate (20 EO) (POLYSORBATE-20),
- polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monopalmitate (20 EO) (POLYS ORB ATE- 40),
- polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monostearate (20 EO) (POLYSORBATE-60),
- polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monostearate (4 EO) (POLYSORBATE-61),
- polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monooleate (20 EO) (POLYSORBATE-80),
- polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monooleate (5 EO) (POLYSORBATE-81),
- polyoxyethylenated sorbitan tristearate (20 EO) (POLYSORBATE-65),
- polyoxyethylenated sorbitan trioleate (20 EO) (POLYSORBATE-85).
The polyoxyethylenated C8-C3O (preferably C12-C18) fatty acid esters (especially monoesters, diesters, triesters and tetraesters) of sorbitan, especially containing from 2 to 20 mol of ethylene oxide, may be chosen from polyoxyethylenated esters, especially containing from 2 to 20 mol of ethylene oxide, of C12-C18 fatty acids, in particular lauric, myristic, cetylic or stearic acid, and of sorbitan, such as:
- the ester polyoxyethylenated with 20 EO of sorbitan and of cocoic acid (PEG-20 Sorbitan Cocoate);
- the polyoxyethylenated esters (especially containing from 2 to 20 EO) of sorbitan and of isostearic acid (such as PEG-2 Sorbitan Isostearate; PEG-5 Sorbitan Isostearate; PEG-20 Sorbitan Isostearate such as the product sold under the name Nikkol TI 10 V by the company Nikkol),
- the polyoxyethylenated esters (especially containing from 2 to 20 EO) of sorbitan and of lauric acid (such as PEG- 10 Sorbitan Laurate),
- the polyoxyethylenated esters (especially containing from 2 to 20 EO) of sorbitan and of oleic acid containing 10 oxyethylenated groups (such as PEG-6 Sorbitan Oleate; PEG-20 Sorbitan Oleate), - the polyoxyethylenated esters (especially containing from 3 to 20 EO) of sorbitan and of stearic acid (such as PEG-3 Sorbitan Stearate; PEG-4 Sorbitan Stearate; PEG- 6 Sorbitan Stearate).
In the present invention, the term “compound with X EO” is intended to mean an oxyethylenated compound comprising an average number of X ethylene oxide units per molecule.
Preferably, the oxyethylenated C8-C3O fatty acid ester(s) of sorbitan are chosen from oxyethylenated C8-C3O fatty acid esters containing from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units, more preferentially from oxyethylenated C12-C24 fatty acid esters containing from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units, better still from oxyethylenated C12-C18 fatty acid esters of sorbitan containing from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units, even better still from oxyethylenated Cl 2-C 18 fatty acid esters of sorbitan containing from 4 to 10 ethylene oxide units, more preferentially sorbitan monolaurate oxyethylenated with 4 EO.
The total content of the oxyethylenated C8-C3O fatty acid ester(s) of sorbitan preferably ranges from 0.2% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 10% by weight, better still from 1.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Oxidation bases
The composition according to the invention may optionally also comprise one or more oxidation bases.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention additionally comprises one or more oxidation bases.
By way of example, the oxidation bases are chosen from paraphenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, orthoaminophenols, heterocyclic bases and the corresponding addition salts, solvates and solvates of their salts.
Among the para-phenylenediamines that may be mentioned are, for example, para-phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3- dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl- para-phenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-para- phenylenediamine, N,N -diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dipropyl-para- phenylenediamine, 4-amino-N,N-diethyl-3-methylaniline, N,N-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)- para-phenylenediamine, 4-N,N-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylaniline, 4-N,N- bis(P-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-chloroaniline, 2-P-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-fluoro-para-phenylenediamine, 2- isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, N-(P-hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2- (y-hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-hydroxymethyl-para- phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-3-methyl-para-phenylenediamine, N-ethyl-N-(P- hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-(P,y-dihydroxypropyl)-para- phenylenediamine, N-(4'-aminophenyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N -phenyl-para- phenylenediamine, 2-P-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2-P- acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, N-(P-methoxyethyl)-para- phenylenediamine, 4-aminophenylpyrrolidine, 2-thienyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-P- hydroxyethylamino-5-aminotoluene and 3-hydroxy- l-(4'-aminophenyl)pyrrolidine, and the corresponding addition salts with an acid, the solvates and/or the solvates of their salts.
Among the para-phenylenediamines mentioned above, particular preference is given to para-phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para- phenylenediamine, 2-P-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-(y -hydro xypropyl)- para-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine (A160), 2-P- hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6- diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-bis(P- hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine and 2-P- acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, and the corresponding addition salts with an acid, the solvates and/or the solvates of their salts.
Among the bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines that may be mentioned, for example, are N,N'-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)-l,3-diaminopropanol, N,N'- bis(P-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)ethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4- aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4- aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4- methylaminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(ethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-amino-3'- methylphenyl)ethylenediamine and l,8-bis(2,5-diaminophenoxy)-3,6-dioxaoctane, and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and/or the solvates of their salts.
Among the para-aminophenols that are mentioned are, for example, paraaminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 4-amino-3- chlorophenol, 4-amino-3 -hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino- 2-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2- aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2-(P-hydroxyethylaminomethyl)phenol and 4-amino-2- fluorophenol, and the corresponding addition salts with an acid, the solvates and/or the solvates of their salts.
Among the ortho-aminophenols that may be mentioned, for example, are 2- aminophenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol, 2-amino-6-methylphenol and 5-acetamido-2- aminophenol, and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and/or the solvates of their salts.
Among the heterocyclic bases that may be mentioned, for example, are pyridine, pyrimidine and pyrazole derivatives.
Among the pyridine derivatives that may be mentioned are the compounds described, for example, in patents GB 1 026 978 and GB 1 153 196, for example 2,5- diaminopyridine, 2-(4-methoxyphenyl)amino-3-aminopyridine and 3,4- diaminopyridine, and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and/or the solvates of their salts.
Other pyridine oxidation bases that are useful in the present invention are the
3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine oxidation bases or the corresponding addition salts described, for example, in patent application FR 2 801 308. Examples that may be mentioned include pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-acetylaminopyrazolo[l,5- a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-(morpholin-4-yl)pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 3- aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine-2-carboxylic acid, 2-methoxypyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3- ylamine, (3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)methanol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5- a]pyrid-5-yl)ethanol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)ethanol, (3- aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-2-yl)methanol, 3,6-diaminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine, 3,4- diaminopyrazolo[ 1 ,5-a]pyridine, pyrazolo[ 1 ,5-a]pyridine-3 ,7 -diamine, 7-(morpholin-
4-yl)pyrazolo [ 1 ,5-a]pyrid-3 -ylamine, pyrazolo [ 1 ,5-a]pyridine-3 ,5-diamine, 5 -
(morpholin-4-yl)pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-5- yl)(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]ethanol, 2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)(2- hydroxyethyl)amino] ethanol, 3 -aminopyrazolo [ 1 ,5-a]pyridin-5-ol, 3 - aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-4-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-6-ol, 3- aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-7-ol, 2-P-hydroxyethoxy-3-aminopyrazolo[l,5- a]pyridine and 2-(4-dimethylpiperazinium-l-yl)-3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine, and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and/or the solvates of their salts. More particularly, the oxidation bases that are useful in the present invention are chosen from 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridines and preferably substituted on carbon atom 2 with: a) a (di)(Cl-C6)(alkyl)amino group, said alkyl group possibly being substituted with at least one hydroxyl, amino or imidazolium group; b) an optionally cationic 5- to 7-membered heterocycloalkyl group comprising from 1 to 3 heteroatoms, optionally substituted with one or more (Cl- C6)alkyl groups such as a di(Cl-C4)alkylpiperazinium group; or c) a (Cl-C6)alkoxy group optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, such as a P-hydroxyalkoxy group, and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and/or the solvates of their salts.
The pyrimidine derivatives which may be mentioned include the compounds described, for example, in patents DE 2359399, JP 88-169571, JP 05-63124 and EP 0 770 375 or patent application WO 96/15765, such as 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4- hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4- dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine, 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine and their addition salts and their tautomeric forms, when a tautomeric equilibrium exists.
Among the pyrazole derivatives that may be mentioned are the compounds described in patents DE 3843892 and DE 4133957 and patent applications WO 94/08969, WO 94/08970, FR-A-2 733 749 and DE 195 43 988, for instance 4,5- diamino-l-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino- l-(P-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole, 3,4- diaminopyrazole, 4,5-diamino- l-(4'-chlorobenzyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino- 1,3- dimethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl- 1-phenylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino- l-methyl-3- phenylpyrazole, 4-amino-l,3-dimethyl-5-hydrazinopyrazole, l-benzyl-4,5-diamino-3- methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-tert-butyl- 1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino- 1-tert-butyl- 3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino- l-(P-hydroxyethyl)-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino- 1- ethyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino- l-ethyl-3-(4'-methoxyphenyl)pyrazole, 4,5- diamino- l-ethyl-3-hydroxymethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-l- methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl- 1-isopropylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3- methyl-l-isopropylpyrazole, 4-amino-5-(2'-aminoethyl)amino-l,3-dimethylpyrazole, 3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, l-methyl-3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, 3,5-diamino-l-methyl-4- methylaminopyrazole and 3, 5-diamino-4-(P-hydroxyethyl)amino- 1-methylpyrazole and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and/or the solvates of their salts. Use may also be made of 4,5-diamino-l-(P-methoxyethyl)pyrazole. A 4,5-diaminopyrazole will preferably be used and even more preferentially 4,5-diamino-l-(P-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and/or a corresponding salt, the solvates and/or the solvates of its salts.
The pyrazole derivatives that may also be mentioned comprise diamino-N,N- dihydropyrazolopyrazolones and in particular those described in patent application FR- A-2 886 136, such as the following compounds and the corresponding addition salts: 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2-amino-3- ethylamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2-amino-3- isopropylamino-6,7 -dihydro- 1 H,5H-pyrazolo [ 1 ,2- a]pyrazol- 1 -one, 2-amino-3-
(pyrrolidin-l-yl)-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 4,5-diamino- 1,2- dimethyl- 1 ,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino- 1 ,2-diethyl- 1 ,2-dihydropyrazol-3- one, 4,5-diamino-l,2-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)-l,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 2-amino-3-(2- hydroxyethyl)amino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2-amino-3- dimethylamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2,3-diamino- 5,6,7,8-tetrahydro-lH,6H-pyridazino[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 4-amino-l,2-diethyl-5- (pyrrolidin-l-yl)-l,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4-amino-5-(3-dimethylaminopyrrolidin- l-yl)-l,2-diethyl-l,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one and 2,3-diamino-6-hydroxy-6,7-dihydro- 1 H,5H-pyrazolo [ 1 ,2- a]pyrazol- 1 -one.
Use will preferably be made of 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H- pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one and/or a corresponding salt, a solvate and/or a solvate of its salts.
Use will preferably be made, as heterocyclic bases, of 4,5-diamino- 1-(P- hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and/or 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2- a]pyrazol-l-one and/or 2-P-hydroxyethoxy-3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine and/or a corresponding salt, a solvate and/or a solvate of its salts.
Preferably, the oxidation base(s) is/are chosen from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases, and the corresponding addition salts, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-P-hydroxyethyl-para- phenylenediamine, 2-y-hydroxypropyl-para-phenylenediamine, and their addition salts, their solvates and/or the solvates of their salts and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, when they are present in the composition according to the invention, the oxidation base(s) is/are present in a total content ranging from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5%, even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more oxidation bases, preferentially chosen from 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-P-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-y-hydroxypropyl-para- phenylenediamine, and their addition salts, their solvates and/or the solvates of their salts and mixtures thereof.
According to a preferred embodiment, the oxidation base(s) chosen from 2- methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-P-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-y-hydroxypropyl-para-phenylenediamine, their addition salts, their solvates and/or the solvates of their salts and mixtures thereof is/are present in a total content ranging from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5%, even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free from oxidation bases chosen from para-phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, their addition salts, their solvates and the solvates of their salts.
Advantageously, the weight ratio between the total content of oxidation base(s) and the total content of oxidation couplers chosen from 6- hydroxybenzomorpholine of formula (II), hydroxy ethyl-3,4-methylenedioxy aniline of formula (III), one of their addition salts, their solvates and/or the solvates of their salts is between 0.1 and 10, better still between 0.5 and 5.
Advantageously, the weight ratio between the total content of oxidation base(s) and the total content of oxidation couplers is between 0.1 and 10, better still between 0.5 and 5.
Fatty substance
The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more fatty substances.
Useful fatty substances according to the invention may be liquid fatty substances (or oils) and/or solid fatty substances. A liquid fatty substance is understood to be a fatty substance having a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013xl05 Pa). A solid fatty substance is understood to be a fatty substance having a melting point of greater than 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013xl05 Pa).
For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed on thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in the standard ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by the company TA Instruments. In the present patent application, all the melting points are determined at atmospheric pressure (1.013xl05 Pa).
The term "fatty substance" is understood to mean an organic compound that is insoluble in water at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (1.013xl05 Pa) (solubility of less than 5% by weight, and preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferentially less than 0.1% by weight). They bear in their structure at least one hydrocarbon-based chain including at least 6 carbon atoms and/or a sequence of at least two siloxane groups. In addition, the fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for instance chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), liquid petroleum jelly or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.
Advantageously, the fatty substances that may be used in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated.
Preferably, useful fatty substances according to the invention are non-silicone.
The term "non-silicone fatty substance" is intended to mean a fatty substance not containing any Si-0 bonds and the term "silicone fatty substance" is intended to mean a fatty substance containing at least one Si-0 bond.
More particularly, the liquid fatty substance(s) according to the invention is/are chosen from C6 to C16 liquid hydrocarbons, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin, oils of triglyceride type of plant or synthetic origin, fluoro oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of a fatty acid and/or of a fatty alcohol other than triglycerides, and silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.
It is recalled that the fatty alcohols, esters and acids more particularly contain at least one saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based group, comprising from 6 to 40 and better still from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally substituted, in particular, with one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds. As regards the C6 to C16 liquid hydrocarbons, these may be linear, branched, or optionally cyclic, and are preferably chosen from alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane or isoparaffins, such as isohexadecane or isodecane, and mixtures thereof.
The liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms may be linear or branched, and of mineral or synthetic origin, and are preferably chosen from liquid paraffins or liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®, and mixtures thereof.
A hydrocarbon-based oil of animal origin that may be mentioned is perhydrosqualene.
The triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from liquid fatty acid triglycerides comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, com oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea butter oil, and mixtures thereof.
As regards the fluoro oils, they may be chosen from perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro- 1,3 -dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names Flutec® PCI and Flutec® PC3 by the company BNFE Fluorochemicals; perfluoro- 1,2 -dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names PF 5050® and PF 5060® by the company 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name Foralkyl® by the company Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives such as 4-trifluoromethylperfluoromorpholine sold under the name PF 5052® by the company 3M.
The liquid fatty alcohols that are suitable for use in the invention are more particularly chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alcohols, preferably unsaturated or branched alcohols, comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Examples that may be mentioned include octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, ricinoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol and linoleyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof. As regards the liquid esters of fatty acids and/or of fatty alcohols, other than the triglycerides mentioned previously, mention may be made notably of esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear Cl to C26 or branched C3 to C26 aliphatic mono- or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear Cl to C26 or branched C3 to C26 aliphatic mono- or polyalcohols, the total carbon number of the esters being greater than or equal to 6 and more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.
Preferably, for the esters of monoalcohols, at least one from among the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the invention are derived is branched.
Among the monoesters, mention may be made of dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, such as 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate; alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate, isobutyl stearate; 2-hexyldecyl laurate, and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, among the monoesters of monoacids and of monoalcohols, use will be made of ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.
Still within the context of this variant, esters of C4 to C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of Cl to C22 alcohols and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C2 to C26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
Mention may in particular be made of: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate; polyethylene glycol distearates, and mixtures thereof. The composition may also comprise, as fatty ester, sugar esters and diesters of C6 to C30 and preferably C12 to C22 fatty acids. It is recalled that the term "sugar" is intended to mean oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds bearing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.
Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, notably alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance methylglucose.
The sugar esters of fatty acids may be notably chosen from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6 to C30 and preferably C12 to C22 fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
The esters according to this variant may also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetraesters, polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates, arachidonates or mixtures thereof notably such as the mixed oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate and palmito- stearate esters.
More particularly, use is made of monoesters and diesters and notably sucrose, glucose or methylglucose mono- or dioleates, -stearates, -behenates, - oleopalmitates, -linoleates, -linolenates and -oleostearates, and mixtures thereof.
An example that may be mentioned is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.
Preferably, use will be made of a liquid ester of a monoacid and of a monoalcohol.
The silicone oils that may be used in the composition according to the present invention may be volatile or nonvolatile, cyclic, linear or branched silicone oils, which are unmodified or modified with organic groups, and preferably have a viscosity from 5xl0-6 to 2.5 m2/s at 25°C, and preferably IxlO-5 to 1 m2/s.
Preferably, the silicone oils are chosen from poly dialkylsiloxanes, notably polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), and liquid polyorganosiloxanes including at least one aryl group. These silicone oils may also be organomodified. The organomodified silicone oils that may be used in accordance with the invention are preferably liquid silicones as defined above and including in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group, chosen, for example, from amine groups and alkoxy groups.
Organopolysiloxanes are defined in greater detail in Walter Noll’s Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press. They may be volatile or nonvolatile.
When they are volatile, the silicone oils are more particularly chosen from those with a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly from:
(i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes including from 3 to 7 and preferably from 4 to 5 silicon atoms. These are, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane notably sold under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 by Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Volatile Silicone® 7158 by Union Carbide, and Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia, and mixtures thereof.
Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane type, such as Volatile Silicone® FZ 3109 sold by the company Union Carbide.
Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with silicon-based organic compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetra(trimethylsilyl)pentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-l,l'-bis(2,2,2',2',3,3'- hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane;
(ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity of less than or equal to 5xl0-6 m2/s at 25°C. An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane notably sold under the name SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone. Silicones falling within this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pp. 27-32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics.
Nonvolatile polydialkylsiloxanes are preferably used.
These silicone oils are more particularly chosen from poly dialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of polydimethylsiloxanes bearing trimethylsilyl end groups. The viscosity of the silicones is measured at 25°C according to the standard ASTM 445, Appendix C. Among these poly dialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, in a nonlimiting manner, of the following commercial products:
- the Silbione® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or the Mirasil® oils sold by Rhodia, for instance the oil 70047 V 500000;
- the oils of the Mirasil® series sold by the company Rhodia;
- the oils of the 200 series from the company Dow Corning, such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60000 mm2/s;
- the Viscasil® oils from General Electric and certain oils of the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.
Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes bearing dimethylsilanol end groups, known under the name dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils of the 48 series from the company Rhodia.
The organomodified silicones that may be used in accordance with the invention are silicones as defined previously and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.
As regards the liquid polyorganosiloxanes including at least one aryl group, they may notably be poly diphenylsiloxanes, and poly alkylarylsiloxanes functionalized with the organofunctional groups mentioned previously.
The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from linear and/or branched polydimethyl/methylphenylsiloxanes and polydimethyl/diphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity ranging from IxlO-5 to 5xl0-2 m2/s at 25°C.
Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes, examples that may be mentioned include the products sold under the following names:
- the Silbione® oils of the 70 641 series from Rhodia;
- the oils of the Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 series from Rhodia;
- the oil Dow Coming 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid from Dow Corning;
- the silicones of the PK series from Bayer, such as the product PK20;
- the silicones of the PN and PH series from Bayer, such as the products PN1000 and PH1000;
- certain oils of the SF series from General Electric, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.
Among the organomodified silicones, mention may be made of polyorganosiloxanes including:
- substituted or unsubstituted amino groups, such as the products sold under the names GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by the company Genesee or the products sold under the names Q2 8220 and Dow Coming 929 or 939 by the company Dow Coming. The substituted amino groups are in particular Cl to C4 aminoalkyl groups;
- alkoxy groups,
- hydroxyl groups.
The solid fatty substances according to the invention preferably have a viscosity of greater than 2 Pa.s, measured at 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s’1.
The solid fatty substance(s) is/are preferably chosen from solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and/or of fatty alcohols, waxes, ceramides and mixtures thereof.
The term "fatty acids", in the case of solid fatty substances, is intended to mean a long-chain carboxylic acid comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The solid fatty acids according to the invention preferentially comprise from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. They may possibly be hydroxylated. These fatty acids are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated.
The solid fatty acids that may be used in the present invention are notably chosen from myristic acid, cetylic acid, palmitic acid, arachidic acid, stearic acid, lauric acid, behenic acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid, and mixtures thereof.
Particularly preferably, the solid fatty acid(s) is/are chosen from lauric acid, myristic acid, cetylic acid, palmitic acid, and stearic acid.
The term "fatty alcohol" is intended to mean a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and comprising at least one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated.
The solid fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated, and linear or branched, and include from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, the solid fatty alcohols have the structure R-OH with R denoting a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40, preferentially from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 and even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
The solid fatty alcohols that may be used are preferably chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, preferably linear and saturated, (mono)alcohols including from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 and better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. The solid fatty alcohols that may be used may be chosen, alone or as a mixture, from: myristyl alcohol (or 1 -tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol (or 1 -hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (or 1 -octadecanol); arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (or 1- docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol); ceryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol); montanyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol); myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).
Preferentially, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol. Particularly preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol.
The solid esters of a fatty acid and/or of a fatty alcohol that may be used are preferably chosen from esters derived from a C9-C26 carboxylic fatty acid and/or from a C9-C26 fatty alcohol.
Preferably, these solid fatty esters are esters of a linear or branched, saturated carboxylic acid including at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and of a linear or branched, saturated monoalcohol, including at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The saturated carboxylic acids may be optionally hydroxylated, and are preferably monocarboxylic acids.
Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22 alcohols and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C2-C26 dihydroxylated, trihydroxylated, tetrahydroxylated or pentahydroxylated alcohols may also be used.
Mention may notably be made of octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, octyl pelargonate, cetyl myristate, myristyl myristate, stearyl myristate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, dioctyl maleate, octyl palmitate, myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the solid esters of a fatty acid and/or of a fatty alcohol are chosen from C9-C26 alkyl palmitates, notably myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate or stearyl palmitate; C9-C26 alkyl myristates, such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyl myristate; and C9-C26 alkyl stearates, notably myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate and stearyl stearate; and mixtures thereof. For the purposes of the present invention, a wax is a lipophilic compound, which is solid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, with a reversible solid/liquid change of state, having a melting point greater than about 40°C, which may range up to 200°C, and having in the solid state an anisotropic crystal organization. In general, the size of the wax crystals is such that the crystals diffract and/or scatter light, giving the composition that comprises them a more or less opaque cloudy appearance. By bringing the wax to its melting point, it is possible to make it miscible with oils and to form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but on returning the temperature of the mixture to ambient temperature, recrystallization of the wax, which is microscopically and macroscopically detectable (opalescence), is obtained.
In particular, the waxes that are suitable for use in the invention may be chosen from waxes of animal, plant or mineral origin, non- silicone synthetic waxes, and mixtures thereof.
Mention may be made notably of hydrocarbon-based waxes, for instance beeswax, notably of biological origin, lanolin wax and Chinese insect waxes; rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japan wax and sumac wax; montan wax, orange wax, lemon wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, the waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, and also esters thereof.
Mention may additionally be made of C20 to C60 microcrystalline waxes, such as Microwax HW.
Mention may also be made of the MW 500 polyethylene wax sold under the reference Permalen 50-L polyethylene.
Mention may also be made of the waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils containing linear or branched C8-C32 fatty chains. Mention may in particular be made, among these waxes, of isomerized jojoba oil such as transisomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, in particular the product manufactured or sold by the company Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil and bis( 1,1,1 -trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate, in particular the product sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company Heterene.
The waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax Castor 16L64® and 22L73® by the company Sophim, may also be used. As wax, use may also be made of a C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture. Such a wax is notably sold under the names Kester Wax K 82 P®, Hydroxypolyester K 82 P® and Kester Wax K 80 P® by the company Koster Keunen.
It is also possible to use microwaxes in the compositions of the invention; mention may notably be made of carnauba microwaxes, such as the product sold under the name MicroCare 350® by the company Micro Powders, synthetic-wax microwaxes, such as the product sold under the name MicroEase 114S® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes constituted of a mixture of carnauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as the products sold under the names Micro Care 300® and 310® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes constituted of a mixture of carnauba wax and of synthetic wax, such as the product sold under the name Micro Care 325® by the company Micro Powders, polyethylene microwaxes, such as the products sold under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by the company Micro Powders, and polytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes, such as the products sold under the names Microslip 519® and 519 L® by the company Micro Powders.
The waxes are preferably chosen from mineral waxes, for instance paraffin, petroleum jelly, lignite or ozokerite wax; plant waxes, for instance cocoa butter or cork fibre or sugar cane waxes, olive tree wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, ouricury wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, esparto grass wax, or absolute waxes of flowers, such as the blackcurrant blossom essential wax sold by the company Bertin (France); waxes of animal origin, for instance beeswaxes or modified beeswaxes (cera bellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; microcrystalline waxes; and mixtures thereof.
The ceramides, or ceramide analogues such as glycoceramides, that may be used in the compositions according to the invention, are known; mention may in particular be made of ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the Dawning classification.
The ceramides or analogues thereof that may be used preferably correspond to the following formula: R3CH(OH)CH(CH2OR2)(NHCOR1), in which:
R1 denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group, derived from C14-C30 fatty acids, it being possible for this group to be substituted with a hydroxyl group in the alpha position, or a hydroxyl group in the omega position esterified with a saturated or unsaturated C16-C30 fatty acid;
R2 denotes a hydrogen atom, a (glycosyl)n group, a (galactosyl)m group or a sulfogalactosyl group, in which n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8;
R3 denotes a C15-C26 hydrocarbon-based group, saturated or unsaturated in the alpha position, it being possible for this group to be substituted with one or more C1-C14 alkyl groups; it being understood that in the case of natural ceramides or glycoceramides, R3 may also denote a C15-C26 alpha-hydroxyalkyl group, the hydroxyl group being optionally esterified by a C16-C30 alpha-hydroxy acid.
The ceramides that are more particularly preferred are the compounds for which R1 denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from C16-C22 fatty acids; R2 denotes a hydrogen atom and R3 denotes a saturated linear C15 group.
Preferentially, use is made of ceramides for which R1 denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from C14-C30 fatty acids; R2 denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl group; and R3 denotes a -CH=CH-(CH2)i2-CH3 group.
Use may also be made of the compounds for which R1 denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical derived from C12-C22 fatty acids; R2 denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl radical and R3 denotes a saturated or unsaturated C12-C22 hydrocarbon-based radical and preferably a -CH=CH-(CH2)i2-CH3 group.
As compounds that are particularly preferred, mention may also be made of 2-N-linoleoylaminooctadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-oleoylaminooctadecane- 1,3 -diol; 2-N- palmitoylaminooctadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N- behenoylaminooctadecane- 1 ,3-diol; 2-N-[2-hydroxypalmitoyl] aminooctadecane- 1,3- diol; 2 -N- stearoylaminooctadecane- 1,3, 4 -triol and in particular N- stearoylphyto sphingosine; 2-N-palmitoylaminohexadecane- 1 ,3-diol, N- linoleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine, N- palmitoyldihydrosphingosine, N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine, and N- behenoyldihydrosphingosine, N-docosanoyl-N-methyl-D-glucamine, cetylic acid N- (2-hydroxyethyl)-N-(3-cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl)amide and bis(N-hydroxyethyl-N- cetyl)malonamide; and mixtures thereof. N- Oleoyldihydro sphingosine will preferably be used.
The solid fatty substances are preferably chosen from solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof. According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one liquid fatty substance, preferentially chosen from liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, plant oils, liquid fatty alcohols and liquid fatty esters, silicone oils and mixtures thereof.
Preferentially, the liquid fatty substance(s) is/are chosen from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, in particular liquid petroleum jelly, liquid fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.
According to another preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one solid fatty substance, preferentially chosen from solid fatty alcohols.
According to another preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one liquid fatty substance and at least one solid fatty substance, preferentially at least one liquid fatty alcohol and at least one solid fatty alcohol.
When the composition according to the invention comprises one or more fatty substances, the total content of fatty substance(s) preferably ranges from 5% to 80% by weight, more preferentially from 8% to 70% by weight and better still from 10% to 65% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more fatty substances, the total content of fatty substance(s) preferably ranging from 30% to 80% by weight, more preferentially from 35% to 70% by weight and better still from 40% to 65% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
In another particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more liquid fatty substances, the total content of liquid fatty substance(s) preferably ranging from 30% to 80% by weight, more preferentially from 35% to 70% by weight and better still from 40% to 65% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Surfactants
The composition according to the present invention may comprise one or more surfactants which are different from oxyethylenated C8-C3O fatty acid esters of sorbitan. These may be chosen preferably from anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants and cationic surfactants and/or mixtures thereof. The term "anionic surfactant" is understood to mean a surfactant including, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups. These anionic groups are preferably chosen from the groups CO2H, CO2-, SO3H, SO3-, OSO3H, OSO3-, H2PO3, HPO3-, PO32-, H2PO2, HPO2-, PO22-, POH and PO-.
As examples of anionic surfactants that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl poly ether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, alkyl sulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylaryl sulfonates, a-olefinsulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, acyl sarcosinates, acyl glutamates, alkyl sulfosuccinamates, acyl isethionates and N-(C1-C4)alkyl N-acyltaurates, salts of alkyl monoesters and of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, acyl lactylates, salts of D- galactoside uronic acids, salts of alkyl ether carboxylic acids, salts of alkylaryl ether carboxylic acids, salts of alkylamido ether carboxylic acids; and the corresponding non-salified forms of all these compounds; the alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds (unless specified otherwise) generally comprising from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group generally denoting a phenyl group.
These compounds may be oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units.
The salts of C6-C24 alkyl monoesters and of polyglycoside -polycarboxylic acids may be chosen from C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates.
When the anionic surfactant(s) is/are in salt form, it/they may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt and preferably the sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts or alkaline-earth metal salts such as the magnesium salt.
Examples of amino alcohol salts that may especially be mentioned include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2- methyl-1 -propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-l,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.
Alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.
The anionic surfactants that are optionally present may be mild anionic surfactants, i.e. anionic surfactants without a sulfate function. As regards mild anionic surfactants, mention may be made in particular of the following compounds and salts thereof, and also mixtures thereof: polyoxyalkylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated alkylaryl ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated alkylamido ether carboxylic acids, in particular those comprising 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, alkyl D-galactoside uronic acids, acyl sarcosinates, acyl glutamates and alkylpoly glyco side carboxylic esters.
Use may be made very particularly of polyoxyalkylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acids, for instance lauryl ether carboxylic acid (4.5 EO) sold, for example, under the name Akypo RLM 45 CA from Kao.
Among the anionic surfactants mentioned above, use is preferably made of the sulfated surfactants such as the alkyl sulfates or alkyl ether sulfates, and the acyl glutamates, more preferentially the alkyl sulfates.
The nonionic surfactant(s) different from oxyethylenated C8-C3O fatty acid esters of sorbitan that may be used in the composition of the present invention are in particular described, for example, in the Handbook of Surfactants by M.R. Porter, published by Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp 116-178. The nonionic surfactants that may be used in the invention are different from the oxyethylenated fatty acid esters of sorbitan described above.
Examples of nonionic surfactants that may be mentioned include the following compounds, alone or as a mixture:
- oxyalkylenated (C8-C24)alkylphenols;
- saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated or glycerolated C8-C40 alcohols, preferably comprising one or two fatty chains;
- saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated C8 to C30 fatty acid amides;
- esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8 to C30 acids and of polyethylene glycols;
- preferably oxyethylenated esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8 to C30 acids and of sorbitol;
- esters of fatty acids and of sucrose;
- (C8-C30)alkyl(poly)glucosides and (C8-C30)alkenyl(poly)glucosides, which are optionally oxyalkylenated (0 to 10 oxyalkylene units) and comprise from 1 to 15 glucose units, (C8-C30)alkyl(poly)glucoside esters;
- saturated or unsaturated oxyethylenated plant oils; - condensates of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide;
N-(C8-C3O)alkylglucamine and N-(C8-C3O)acylmethylglucamine derivatives;
- amine oxides.
They are notably chosen from alcohols, a-diols and (Cl-C20)alkylphenols, these compounds being ethoxylated, propoxylated or glycerolated and bearing at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups possibly ranging notably from 1 to 200, and the number of glycerol groups possibly ranging notably from 1 to 30.
Mention may also be made of condensates of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols, ethoxylated fatty amides preferably containing from 1 to 30 ethylene oxide units, polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average from 1 to 5, and in particular from 1.5 to 4, glycerol groups, fatty acid esters of sucrose, fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol, (C6-C24 alkyl)polyglycosides, oxyethylenated plant oils, N-(C6-C24 alkyl)glucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (C10-C14 alkyl)amine oxides or N-(C10-C14 acyl)aminopropylmorpholine oxides.
The nonionic surfactants are preferably chosen from ethoxylated C8-C24 fatty alcohols comprising from 1 to 200 ethylene oxide groups, (C6-C24 alkyl)polyglycosides and mixtures thereof.
The cationic surfactant(s) that may be used in the composition according to the invention are generally chosen from optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.
The fatty amines generally comprise at least one C8-C3O hydrocarbon-based chain. Among the fatty amines that may be used according to the invention, examples that may be mentioned include stearylamidopropyldimethylamine and distearylamine.
Mention may in particular be made, as quaternary ammonium salts, for example, of:
- those corresponding to the general formula (X) below:
Figure imgf000029_0001
in which the groups Rs to Rn, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group including from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups Rs to Rn including from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The aliphatic groups may include heteroatoms notably such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens.
The aliphatic groups are chosen, for example, from C1-C30 alkyl, C1-C30 alkoxy, polyoxy(C2-C6)alkylene, C1-C30 alkylamide, (C12-C22)alkylamido(C2- C6)alkyl, (C12-C22)alkyl acetate and C1-C30 hydroxyalkyl groups, X’ is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (Cl-C4)alkyl sulfates, (Cl-C4)alkylsulfonates or (Cl-C4)alkylarylsulfonates.
Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (X), preference is given, firstly, to tetraalkylammonium chlorides, for instance dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group comprises from about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride, or else, secondly, to distearoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate or distearoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, or else, finally, to palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride or stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate) ammonium chloride, sold under the name CERAPHYL® 70 by the company Van Dyk;
- quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, for instance those of formula (XI) below:
Figure imgf000030_0001
in which R12 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, derived, for example, from tallow fatty acids, R13 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R14 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group, R15 represents a hydrogen atom or a Cl- C4 alkyl group, X’ is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (Cl-C4)alkyl sulfates, (Cl-C4)alkylsulfonates or (Cl-C4)alkylarylsulfonates. Preferably, R12 and R13 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups comprising from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R14 denotes a methyl group and R15 denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is sold, for example, under the name Rewoquat® W 75 by the company Rewo;
- quaternary diammonium or triammonium salts, in particular of formula (XII) below:
Figure imgf000031_0001
in which Ri6 denotes an alkyl group containing approximately from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and/or interrupted with one or more oxygen atoms; R17 is chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group -(CH2)3-N+(Ri6a)(Ri7a)(Ri8a); Ri6a, Ri7a, Ri8a, Ris, R19, R20 and R21, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X’ is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (Cl-C4)alkyl sulfates, (Cl- C4)alkylsulfonates or (Cl-C4)alkylarylsulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate.
Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P, sold by the company Finetex (Quatemium 89), and Finquat CT, sold by the company Finetex (Quaternium 75);
- quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functions, for instance those of formula (XIII) below:
(CSH2SO)Z— R25 o
R24— C - (O— CrHr2(OH)r1) — N+ - (CtHt2(OH)t1— O) — R23 X
R22
(XIII) in which: R22 is chosen from C1-C6 alkyl groups and C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups; R23 is chosen from: the group -C(O)R26, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C22 hydrocarbon-based groups R27, a hydrogen atom; R25 is chosen from: the group -C(O)R28, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Cl- C6 hydrocarbon-based groups R29, a hydrogen atom; R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7- C21 hydrocarbon-based groups; r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are integers from 2 to 6; rl and tl, which may be identical or different, are 0 or 1; r2 + rl = 2 r and tl + t2 = 2 t, y is an integer from 1 to 10, x and z, which may be identical or different, are integers from 0 to 10, X’ is an organic or inorganic simple or complex anion, with the proviso that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 R23 denotes R27 and that when z is 0 R25 denotes R29.
The alkyl groups R22 may be linear or branched, and more particularly linear.
Preferably, R22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.
Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10.
When R23 is a hydrocarbon-based group R27, it may be long and contain from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and contain from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
When R25 is a hydrocarbon-based group R29, it preferably contains 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
Advantageously, R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Cl 1-C21 hydrocarbon-based groups, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Cl l- C21 alkyl and alkenyl groups.
Preferably, x and z, which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1. Advantageously, y is equal to 1.
Preferably, r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.
The anion X’ is preferably a halide, preferably chloride, bromide or iodide, a (Cl-C4)alkyl sulfate, (Cl-C4)alkylsulfonate or (Cl-C4)alkylarylsulfonate. However, use may be made of methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid, such as acetate or lactate, or any other anion that is compatible with the ammonium bearing an ester function.
The anion X’ is more particularly still chloride, methyl sulfate or ethyl sulfate. Use is made more particularly, in the composition according to the invention, of the ammonium salts of formula (XIII) in which: R22 denotes a methyl or ethyl group, x and y are equal to 1, z is equal to 0 or 1, r, s and t are equal to 2; R23 is chosen from: the group -C(O)R26, methyl, ethyl or C14-C22 hydrocarbon-based groups, a hydrogen atom, R25 is chosen from: the group -C(O)R28, a hydrogen atom, R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 hydrocarbon-based groups, and preferably from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups.
Advantageously, the hydrocarbon-based groups are linear.
Among the compounds of formula (XIII), examples that may be mentioned include salts, notably the chloride or methyl sulfate, of diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium or monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium, and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably contain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are derived more particularly from a plant oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these groups may be identical or different.
These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, an alkyldiethanolamine or an alkyldiisopropanolamine, which are optionally oxyalkylenated, with fatty acids or with fatty acid mixtures of plant or animal origin, or by transesterification of the methyl esters thereof. This esterification is followed by a quaternization by means of an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl halide, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably dimethyl or diethyl sulfate, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para- toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.
Such compounds are sold, for example, under the names Dehyquart® by the company Henkel, Stepanquat® by the company Stepan, Noxamium® by the company CECA or Rewoquat® WE 18 by the company Rewo-Witco.
The composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium monoester, diester and triester salts with a weight majority of diester salts.
Use may also be made of the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function that are described in patents US-A-4 874 554 and US-A-4 137 180.
Use may also be made of the behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride sold, for example, by the company Kao under the name Quartamin BTC 131.
Preferably, the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.
Among the cationic surfactants, it is more particularly preferred to choose cetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium and dipalmitoylethylhydroxy ethylmethylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, and dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the surfactant(s) is/are chosen from anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants different from oxyethylenated C8-C3O fatty acid esters of sorbitan, and mixtures thereof.
More preferentially, the surfactant(s) is/are preferably chosen from nonionic surfactants different from oxyethylenated C8-C3O fatty acid esters of sorbitan, better still from ethoxylated C8-C24 fatty alcohols comprising from 1 to 200 ethylene oxide groups, (C6-C24 alkyl)polyglycosides, and mixtures thereof.
When the composition comprises one or more surfactants different from oxyethylenated C8-C3O fatty acid esters of sorbitan, the total content of surfactant(s) different from oxyethylenated C8-C3O fatty acid esters of sorbitan in the composition preferably ranges from 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 8% by weight, even better still from 1% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
When the composition comprises one or more nonionic surfactants different from oxyethylenated C8-C3O fatty acid esters of sorbitan, the total content of nonionic surfactant(s) different from oxyethylenated C8-C3O fatty acid esters of sorbitan in the composition preferably ranges from 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 8% by weight, even better still from 1% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Sequestrants
The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one sequestrant (or chelating agent).
The definition of a "sequestrant" (or "chelating agent") is well known to those skilled in the art and refers to a compound or a mixture of compounds capable of forming a chelate with a metal ion. A chelate is an inorganic complex in which a compound (the sequestrant or chelating agent) is coordinated to a metal ion, i.e. it forms one or more bonds with the metal ion (formation of a ring including the metal ion).
A sequestrant (or chelating agent) generally comprises at least two electrondonating atoms which enable the formation of bonds with the metal ion.
Within the scope of the present invention, the sequestrant(s) may be chosen from carboxylic acids, preferably aminocarboxylic acids, phosphonic acids, preferably aminopho sphonic acids, polyphosphoric acids, preferably linear polyphosphoric acids, their salts, and derivatives thereof.
The salts are in particular alkali metal, alkaline-earth metal, ammonium and substituted ammonium salts.
The following compounds may be mentioned as examples of carboxylic acids: diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DTPA), ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS) and trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate such as Octaquest E30 from OCTEL, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), and its salts such as disodium EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA, ethylenediamine-N,N'-diglutaric acid (EDDG), glycinamide- N,N'-disuccinic acid (GADS), glycinamide-N,N'-disuccinic acid (GADS), 2- hydroxypropylenediamine-N,N'-disuccinic acid (HPDDS), ethylenediamine-N-N'- bis(ortho-hydroxyphenylacetic acid) (EDDHA), N,N'-bis(2- hydroxybenzyl)ethylenediamine-N,N'-diacetic acid (HBED), nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA), methylglycinediacetic acid (MGDA), N-2-hydroxyethyl-N,N-diacetic acid and glyceryliminodiacetic acid (as described in documents EP-A-317,542 and EP-A- 399,133), iminodiacetic acid-N-2-hydroxypropylsulfonic acid and aspartic acid-N- carboxymethyl-N-2-hydroxypropyl-3- sulfonic acid (as described in EP-A-516,102), beta-alanine-N,N'-diacetic acid, aspartic acid-N,N'-diacetic acid, aspartic acid-N- monoacetic acid (described in EP-A-509,382), chelating agents based on iminodisuccinic acid (IDSA) (as described in EP-A-509,382), ethanoldiglycine acid, phosphonobutanetricarboxylic acid such as the compound sold by Bayer under the reference Bayhibit AM, N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid and salts thereof such as tetrasodium glutamate diacetate (GLDA) such as Dissolvine GL38 or 45S from Akzo Nobel.
The following compounds may be mentioned as examples of chelating agents based on mono- or polypho sphonic acid: diethylenetriaminepenta(methylenephosphonic acid) (DTPMP), ethane- 1 -hydroxy- 1,1, 2-triphosphonic acid (E1HTP), ethane-2-hydroxy- 1,1, 2-triphosphonic acid (E2HTP), ethane- l-hydroxy-l,l-triphosphonic acid (EHDP), ethane-1,1,2- tripho sphonic acid (ETP), ethy lenediaminetetrame thy lenepho sphonic acid (EDTMP), hydroxy ethane- 1,1 -dipho sphonic acid (HEDP, etidronic acid), and salts such as disodium etidronate, tetrasodium etidronate.
The following compounds may be mentioned as examples of chelating agents based on polyphosphoric acid: sodium tripolyphosphate (STP), tetrasodium diphosphate, hexametaphosphoric acid, sodium metaphosphate, phytic acid. According to a particular embodiment, the sequestrant(s) useful according to the invention is/are phosphorus-based sequestrants, i.e. sequestrants which comprise one or more phosphorus atoms, preferably at least two phosphorus atoms.
The phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) used in the composition according to the invention is/are preferably chosen from:
- inorganic phosphorus -based derivatives preferably chosen from alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, preferably alkali metal, phosphates and pyrophosphates, such as sodium pyrophosphate, potassium pyrophosphate, sodium pyrophosphate decahydrate; and alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, preferably alkali metal, polyphosphates, such as sodium hexametaphosphate, sodium polyphosphate, sodium tripolyphosphate, sodium trimetaphosphate; which are optionally hydrated, and mixtures thereof;
- organic phosphorus-based derivatives, such as organic (poly)phosphates and (poly)phosphonates, such as etidronic acid and/or alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts thereof, for instance tetrasodium etidronate, disodium etidronate and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) is/are chosen from linear or cyclic compounds comprising at least two phosphorus atoms bonded together covalently via at least one linker L comprising at least one oxygen atom and/or at least one carbon atom.
The phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) may be chosen from inorganic phosphorus-based derivatives, preferably comprising at least two phosphorus atoms. More preferentially, the phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) is/are chosen from alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal pyrophosphates, better still from alkali metal pyrophosphates, in particular sodium pyrophosphate (also known as tetrasodium pyrophosphate).
The phosphorus -based sequestrant(s) may be chosen from organic phosphorus-based derivatives, preferably comprising at least two phosphorus atoms. More preferentially, the phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) is/are chosen from etidronic acid (also known as 1 -hydroxy ethane- 1,1 -dipho sphonic acid) and/or alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, preferably alkali metal, salts thereof, for instance tetrasodium etidronate and disodium etidronate.
Thus, preferably, the phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) is/are chosen from alkali metal pyrophosphates, etidronic acid and/or alkali metal salts thereof, and a mixture of these compounds. Particularly preferably, the phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) is/are chosen from tetrasodium etidronate, disodium etidronate, etidronic acid, tetrasodium pyrophosphate, and a mixture of these compounds.
According to the present invention, the sequestrants are preferably chosen from diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DTP A) and salts thereof, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and salts thereof, ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS) and salts thereof, etidronic acid and salts thereof, N,N- dicarboxymethylglutamic acid and salts thereof, N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid and salts thereof (GLDA) and mixtures thereof.
Among the salts of these compounds, the alkali metal salts and especially the sodium or potassium salts are preferred.
When the composition comprises one or more sequestrants, the total content of the sequestrant(s) preferably ranges from 0.001% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.01% to 8% by weight, even better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Alkaline agent
The composition according to the present invention may comprise one or more mineral, organic or hybrid alkaline agents.
Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises one or more mineral, organic or hybrid alkaline agents.
For the purposes of the present invention, the terms "alkaline agent" and "basifying agent" are used interchangeably.
The mineral basifying agent(s) is/are preferably chosen from aqueous ammonia, alkali metal carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium (hydrogen)carbonate and potassium (hydrogen)carbonate, alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal phosphates such as sodium phosphates or potassium phosphates, sodium hydroxides or potassium hydroxides, and mixtures thereof.
The organic basifying agent(s) is/are preferably chosen from alkanolamines, amino acids, organic amines, oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, 1,3 -diaminopropane, l,3-diamino-2-propanol, spermine or spermidine and mixtures thereof. The term "alkanolamine" is intended to mean an organic amine comprising a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, and one or more linear or branched Cl- C8 alkyl groups bearing one or more hydroxyl radicals.
Particularly suitable for performing the invention are organic amines chosen from alkanolamines such as monoalkanolamines, dialkanolamines or trialkanolamines comprising one to three identical or different Cl -C4 hydroxy alkyl radicals.
In particular, the alkanolamine(s) is/are chosen from monoethanolamine (MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl- 1-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-l,3-propanediol, 3-amino-l,2-propanediol, 3- dimethylamino-l,2-propanediol, tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane and mixtures thereof.
Advantageously, the amino acids are basic amino acids comprising an additional amine function. Such basic amino acids are preferably chosen from histidine, lysine, arginine, ornithine and citrulline.
The organic amine can also be chosen from organic amines of heterocyclic type. Besides histidine that has already been mentioned in the amino acids, mention may in particular be made of pyridine, piperidine, imidazole, triazole, tetrazole and benzimidazole. The organic amine can also be chosen from amino acid dipeptides. As amino acid dipeptides that can be used in the present invention, mention may notably be made of carnosine, anserine and balenine. The organic amine may also be chosen from compounds comprising a guanidine function. As amines of this type different from arginine that may be used in the present invention, mention may notably be made of creatine, creatinine, 1,1 -dimethylguanidine, 1,1 -diethylguanidine, glycocyamine, metformin, agmatine, N-amidoalanine, 3-guanidinopropionic acid, 4-guanidinobutyric acid and 2-([amino(imino)methyl]amino)ethane-l -sulfonic acid.
Use may be made in particular of guanidine carbonate or monoethanolamine hydrochloride as hybrid compounds.
The alkaline agent(s) that may be used according to the invention is/are preferably chosen from alkanolamines such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine; aqueous ammonia, carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium (hydrogen)carbonate and potassium (hydrogen)carbonate and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from aqueous ammonia and alkanolamines, better still from alkanolamines. When the composition comprises at least one alkaline agent, the total content of the alkaline agent(s) preferably ranges from 0.1% to 40% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 30% by weight, better still from 1% to 20% by weight, even better still from 2% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
According to one embodiment, the pH of the composition comprising at least one alkaline agent is between 8 and 13; preferably between 9 and 12.
The pH of the composition may be adjusted to the desired value by means of acidic or alkaline agent(s) commonly used in the dyeing of keratin fibres, such as those described hereinabove, or alternatively using buffer systems known to those skilled in the art.
Chemical oxidizing agents
The composition according to the invention may optionally additionally comprise one or more chemical oxidizing agents.
According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more chemical oxidizing agents.
According to another particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention does not comprise chemical oxidizing agents.
According to this embodiment, the composition according to the invention is preferably mixed at the moment of use with at least one composition comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term "chemical oxidizing agent" is understood to mean an oxidizing agent other than atmospheric oxygen.
The chemical oxidizing agent(s) (or bleaching agents) which may be used in the present invention may be chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, persalts, such as perborates and persulfates, in particular sodium persulfate, potassium persulfate and ammonium persulfate, peracids and oxidase enzymes (with their optional cofactors), among which mention may be made of peroxidases, 2-electron oxidoreductases, such as uricases, and 4-electron oxygenases, such as laccases, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially, the chemical oxidizing agent(s) is/are chosen from hydrogen peroxide, persalts, and mixtures thereof, more preferably still hydrogen peroxide. Preferably, when they are present in the composition according to the invention, the chemical oxidizing agent(s) is/are present in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 35% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 25% by weight, even more preferentially from 1% to 15% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
According to a preferred embodiment, when they are present in the composition according to the invention, the chemical oxidizing agent(s) chosen from hydrogen peroxide, persalts and mixtures thereof is/are present in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 35% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 25% by weight, even more preferentially from 1% to 15% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
Additives
The composition according to the invention may contain any adjuvant or additive usually used.
Among the additives which may be present in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of reducing agents, thickeners, softeners, antifoams, moisturizers, UV-screening agents, peptizers, solubilizers, fragrances, anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric polymers or mixtures thereof, antidandruff agents, antiseborrheic agents, vitamins and provitamins including panthenol, sunscreens, sequestrants, plasticizers, solubilizing agents, acidifying agents, mineral or organic thickeners, especially polymeric thickeners, antioxidants, hydroxy acids, fragrances and preserving agents.
Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additional compounds so that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, detrimentally affected by the envisioned addition(s).
The above additives may generally be present in an amount, for each of them, of between 0 and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Process
The present invention also relates to a process for dyeing keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, wherein the composition as described previously is applied to said fibres.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention is a composition for dyeing keratin fibres, such as the hair. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more oxidation bases, preferentially chosen from 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-P-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-y-hydroxypropyl-para- phenylenediamine, and their addition salts, their solvates and/or the solvates of their salts and mixtures thereof.
The composition according to the invention can be used on wet or dry keratin fibres, and also on all types of fair or dark, natural or dyed, permanent- waved, bleached or relaxed, fibres.
According to a particular embodiment of the process of the invention, the fibres are washed before application of the composition described above.
The application of the the composition of the invention to the keratin fibres can be carried out by any conventional means, in particular by means of a comb, a fine brush, a coarse brush or with the fingers.
The dyeing process, i.e. application of the dye composition to the keratin fibres, is generally carried out at ambient temperature (between 15 and 25 °C).
The composition according to the invention may be applied to the keratin fibres for a leave-on time ranging from 30 to 60 minutes.
After application of the composition according to the invention, the keratin fibres may optionally undergo washing with a shampoo and/or be rinsed with water.
According to a particular embodiment, the dyeing process comprises at least the application, to said fibres, of a composition comprising:
- at least one oxidation coupler chosen from 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine of formula (II) below, one of its addition salts, its solvates and/or solvates of its salts:
Figure imgf000041_0001
- at least one oxidation coupler chosen from hydroxyethyl-3,4- methylenedioxyaniline of formula (III) below, one of its addition salts, its solvates and/or solvates of its salts:
Figure imgf000041_0002
- one or more nonionic surfactants chosen from oxyethylenated C8-C3O fatty acid esters of sorbitan as described above,
- one or more oxidation bases as described above, preferably chosen from 2- methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-P-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-y-hydroxypropyl-para-phenylenediamine, and their addition salts, their solvates and/or the solvates of their salts and mixtures thereof,
- one or more chemical oxidizing agents as described above, preferably hydrogen peroxide.
According to another particular embodiment, the dyeing process comprises at least the application, to said fibres, of a composition obtained by mixing, at the moment of use:
• at least one composition comprising:
- at least one oxidation coupler chosen from 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine of formula (II) below, one of its addition salts, its solvates and/or solvates of its salts:
Figure imgf000042_0001
- at least one oxidation coupler chosen from hydroxyethyl-3,4- methylenedioxyaniline of formula (III) below, one of its addition salts, its solvates and/or solvates of its salts:
Figure imgf000042_0002
- one or more nonionic surfactants chosen from oxyethylenated C8-C3O fatty acid esters of sorbitan as described above,
- one or more oxidation bases as described above, preferably chosen from 2- methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-P-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-y-hydroxypropyl-para-phenylenediamine, and their addition salts, their solvates and/or the solvates of their salts and mixtures thereof, and
• at least one composition comprising or more chemical oxidizing agents as described above, preferably hydrogen peroxide. The oxidizing composition is preferably an aqueous composition. In particular, it comprises more than 5% by weight of water, preferably more than 10% by weight of water and even more advantageously more than 20% by weight of water.
It may also comprise one or more organic solvents chosen from those listed previously; these solvents more particularly representing, when they are present, from 1% to 40% by weight and preferably from 5% to 30% by weight, relative to the weight of the oxidizing composition.
The oxidizing composition also preferably comprises one or more acidifying agents. Among the acidifying agents, examples that may be mentioned include mineral or organic acids, for instance hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids, for instance acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid or lactic acid, and sulfonic acids.
The oxidizing composition may additionally comprise fatty substances such as those described hereinabove, preferably chosen from fatty alcohols, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof, surfactants and polymers.
Usually, the pH of the oxidizing composition, when it is aqueous, is less than 7.
Preferably, the oxidizing composition comprises hydrogen peroxide as oxidizing agent, in aqueous solution, the concentration of which ranges, more particularly, from 0.1% to 50%, more particularly between 0.5% and 20% and even more preferentially between 1% and 15% by weight, relative to the weight of the oxidizing composition.
Preferably, at least one of the (dyeing or oxidizing) compositions is aqueous.
When the oxidizing composition is extemporaneously mixed with the dyeing composition according to the invention, the pH of the mixture obtained is preferably between 8 and 11, more preferentially between 9 and 10.7.
The pH may be adjusted to the desired value by means of acidifying or alkalinizing agents, or alternatively using buffer systems, as defined above.
The present invention also relates to the use of the composition according to the invention as described previously for dyeing keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair. The invention furthermore relates to a multicompartment device comprising at least a first compartment containing the composition according to the invention as described hereinabove, and at least a second compartment containing one or more oxidizing agents as described hereinafter, preferably hydrogen peroxide.
The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without, however, exhibiting a limiting nature.
Examples In the examples which follow, all the amounts are shown, unless otherwise indicated, as percentage by weight of active material, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
Compositions AO, Al and A2 (dye compositions) and composition B (oxidizing composition B) were prepared from the ingredients whose contents are indicated in the tables below (% active material unless otherwise mentioned):
[Table 1]
Figure imgf000044_0001
Figure imgf000045_0001
[Table 2]
Figure imgf000045_0002
Protocol: At the moment of use, the dye compositions AO, Al and A2 are mixed with 1 times their weight of the oxidizing composition B (6g% H2O2). Each of the mixtures is then applied to locks of hair containing 90% natural white (NW) hair, and sensitized (AS 20) locks of hair, in a proportion of 5 g of mixture per 1 g of hair.
After a leave-on time of 30 minutes on a hot plate at 27°C, the hair is rinsed, washed with L’Oreal Professionnel Pro Classics universal concentrated shampoo, diluted to 10%, and dried.
Colorimetric measurements were performed using a KONICA MINOLTA CM-3600A spectrocolorimeter (illuminant D65, angle 10°, specular component included) in the CIELab system.
In this system, L* represents the lightness: the lower the value of L*, the deeper, more powerful and more intense the colouring obtained. The chromaticity is measured by the values a* and b*, a* representing the green/red colour axis and b* the blue/yellow colour axis.
The selectivity is represented by the colour difference AE between the locks of dyed natural hair (NW) and the locks of dyed sensitized hair (AS20).
The AE value is calculated according to the following equation:
Figure imgf000046_0001
In this equation, L*, a* and b* represent the values measured on dyed natural hair (NW) and L0*, aO* and bO* represent the values measured on dyed sensitized hair AS20.
The greater the value of AE, the greater the colour difference between the locks of natural hair and the locks of dyed sensitized hair, which represents less homogeneity of the colouring between the tip and the root of the hair, and therefore greater selectivity.
The lower the value of AE, the lower, and hence better, the selectivity (homogeneous colouring).
Selectivity:
The selectivity is represented by the colour difference AE between the dyed natural locks of hair and the dyed sensitized locks of hair: the lower the value of AE, the better the selectivity.
The results are given in Table 3 below.
[Table 3]
Figure imgf000047_0001
The composition according to the invention leads to a lower value of AE, thus to a better selectivity, compared to the comparative compositions 1 and 2 according to the prior art.
The colourings obtained with the composition according to the invention are therefore more homogeneous than the colourings obtained with the comparative compositions.

Claims

47 CLAIMS
1. Cosmetic composition comprising:
- at least one oxidation coupler chosen from 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine of formula (II) below, one of its addition salts, its solvates and/or solvates of its salts:
Figure imgf000048_0001
- at least one oxidation coupler chosen from hydroxyethyl-3,4- methylenedioxyaniline of formula (III) below, one of its addition salts, its solvates and/or solvates of its salts:
Figure imgf000048_0002
(III),
- one or more nonionic surfactants chosen from oxyethylenated C8-C3O fatty acid esters of sorbitan.
2. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the oxidation coupler(s) chosen from 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine of formula (II), one of its addition salts, its solvates and/or solvates of its salts is/are present in a total content ranging from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5%, even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the oxidation coupler(s) chosen from hydroxy ethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline of formula (III), one of its addition salts, its solvates and/or solvates of its salts is/are present in a total content ranging from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5%, even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition. 48
4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of oxidation couplers chosen from 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine of formula (II), one of its addition salts, its solvates and/or solvates of its salts, and hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline of formula (III), one of its addition salts, its solvates and/or solvates of its salts, ranges from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5%, even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio between the content of oxidation couplers chosen from 6- hydroxybenzomorpholine of formula (II) and the content of oxidation couplers chosen from hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline of formula (III), their addition salts, their solvates and/or the solvates of their salts is between 0.1 and 10, preferably between 0.4 and 5, more preferentially between 0.5 and 2.
6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it additionally comprises one or more oxidation couplers different from 6- hydroxybenzomorpholine of formula (II) and hydroxyethyl-3,4- methylenedioxyaniline of formula (III), their addition salts, their solvates and/or the solvates of their salts, preferably chosen from meta-phenylenediamines, metaaminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalene-based coupling agents, heterocyclic coupling agents, and their corresponding addition salts, their solvates and/or the solvates of their salts; even more preferentially 1,3 -dihydroxybenzene, 1,3-dihydroxy- 2-methylbenzene, 3-aminophenol, 5-N-(P-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylphenol, 2,4- diamino-l-(P-hydroxyethyloxy)benzene, 2-methyl-5-aminophenol, 2-amino-5- ethylphenol, 6-hydroxyindole, 4-chloro-l,3-dihydroxybenzene, 2-amino-3- hydroxypyridine, 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, a-naphthol, 2-([3-amino-4- methoxyphenyl]amino)ethanol, their addition salts, their solvates and/or the solvates of their salts.
7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the oxyethylenated C8-C3O fatty acid esters of sorbitan are chosen from oxyethylenated C8-C3O fatty acid esters containing from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units, preferably from oxyethylenated C12-C24 fatty acid esters containing from 2 to 20 49 ethylene oxide units, preferentially from oxyethylenated C12-C18 fatty acid esters of sorbitan containing from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units, better still from oxyethylenated C12-C18 fatty acid esters of sorbitan containing from 4 to 10 ethylene oxide units, even better still sorbitan monolaurate oxyethylenated with 4 EO.
8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of the oxyethylenated C8-C3O fatty acid ester(s) of sorbitan ranges from 0.2% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferentially from 1% to 10% by weight, better still from 1.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises one or more oxidation bases, preferably chosen from paraphenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, orthoaminophenols, heterocyclic bases, and the corresponding addition salts, their solvates, the solvates of their salts and mixtures thereof; preferentially from 2-methoxymethyl- para-phenylenediamine, 2-P-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-y- hydroxypropyl-para-phenylenediamine, their addition salts, their solvates, the solvates of their salts and mixtures thereof.
10. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the oxidation base(s) is/are present in a content ranging from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5%, even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one fatty substance, preferably chosen from liquid fatty substances, solid fatty substances, and mixtures thereof.
12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one liquid fatty substance, preferably chosen from liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, plant oils, liquid fatty alcohols and liquid fatty esters, silicone oils and mixtures thereof, preferentially from liquid hydrocarbons comprising 50 more than 16 carbon atoms, in particular liquid petroleum jelly, liquid fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.
13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one solid fatty substance, preferably chosen from solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and/or of fatty alcohols, waxes, ceramides, and mixtures thereof, preferentially from solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof.
14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one surfactant different from oxyethylenated C8-C3O fatty acid esters of sorbitan, the surfactant(s) preferably being chosen from anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from nonionic surfactants.
15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more sequestrants.
16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one alkaline agent, preferably chosen from alkanolamines such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine; aqueous ammonia, carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium (hydrogen)carbonate and potassium (hydrogen)carbonate and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from aqueous ammonia and alkanolamines, better still from alkanolamines.
17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it additionally comprises one or more chemical oxidizing agents, preferably chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, persalts, such as perborates and persulfates, in particular sodium persulfate, potassium persulfate and ammonium persulfate, peracids and oxidase enzymes, for example peroxidases, 2- electron oxidoreductases, such as uricases, and 4-electron oxygenases, such as laccases, and mixtures thereof; preferably, the chemical oxidizing agent(s) is/are chosen from hydrogen peroxide, persalts, and mixtures thereof, more preferably still hydrogen peroxide.
18. Process for dyeing keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising at least the application, to said fibres, of a composition as defined according to Claim 17.
19. Process according to Claim 18, wherein the composition is obtained by mixing, at the moment of use:
- at least one composition as defined according to any one of Claims 1 to 16, and
- at least one composition comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents as defined according to Claim 17.
20. Use of a cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 17, for dyeing keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair.
21. Multicompartment device comprising at least a first compartment containing the composition as defined according to any one of Claims 1 to 16, and at least a second compartment containing one or more oxidizing agents as defined according to Claim 17.
PCT/EP2021/086231 2020-12-17 2021-12-16 Cosmetic composition comprising a combination of two particular couplers and an oxyethylenated fatty acid ester of sorbitan WO2022129350A1 (en)

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