WO2023275187A1 - Composition comprising shea, an alkyl(poly)glycoside, a polysaccharide and a dye - Google Patents

Composition comprising shea, an alkyl(poly)glycoside, a polysaccharide and a dye Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2023275187A1
WO2023275187A1 PCT/EP2022/067977 EP2022067977W WO2023275187A1 WO 2023275187 A1 WO2023275187 A1 WO 2023275187A1 EP 2022067977 W EP2022067977 W EP 2022067977W WO 2023275187 A1 WO2023275187 A1 WO 2023275187A1
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weight
composition
chosen
salts
acid
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PCT/EP2022/067977
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French (fr)
Inventor
Sarah BOULEMNAKHER
Marie Giafferi
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L'oreal
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Priority to EP22740846.5A priority Critical patent/EP4362906A1/en
Publication of WO2023275187A1 publication Critical patent/WO2023275187A1/en

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/602—Glycosides, e.g. rutin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/604—Alkylpolyglycosides; Derivatives thereof, e.g. esters
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/10—Preparations for permanently dyeing the hair

Definitions

  • TITLE Composition comprising shea, an alkyl(poly)glycoside, a polysaccharide and a dye
  • the invention relates to a composition
  • a composition comprising at least one fatty substance derived from shea, at least one alkyl(poly)glycoside, at least one polysaccharide chosen from anionic microbial gums and at least a dye.
  • the invention also relates to a process for dyeing keratin fibres, notably the hair, using this composition.
  • the invention relates to the use of such a composition for dyeing keratin fibres, and notably the hair.
  • oxidation dye precursors such as ortho- or para-phenylenediamines, ortho- or para-aminophenols, or heterocyclic compounds such as pyrazoles, pyrazolinones or pyrazolo-pyridines.
  • oxidation bases are colourless or weakly coloured compounds which, when combined with oxidizing products, may give rise to coloured compounds via a process of oxidative condensation.
  • the dyeing power obtained may not be entirely satisfactory, or may even be weak, and lead to a restricted range of colours. Moreover, they are not entirely satisfactory in terms of cosmetic properties of the hair.
  • the colourings may also be insufficiently persistent with respect to external agents such as light, shampoo or perspiration, and may also be too selective, i.e. the difference in colouring is too great along the same keratin fibre that is differently sensitized between its end and its root.
  • dyeing compositions often comprise starting materials for which the regulatory conditions are increasingly strict. It is thus necessary to develop compositions comprising alternative compounds.
  • compositions for dyeing keratin fibres in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, which is more environmentally friendly and which does not have the abovementioned drawbacks, i.e. which is capable of giving good colour build-up, intensity and chromaticity when it comprises one or more dyes, while at the same time having low selectivity and good persistence and which is capable of leading to good dyeing performance, , making it possible notably to obtain aesthetic blonds, even after a period of storage, while at the same time having good working qualities and leading to good cosmetic properties, notably in terms of homogeneity of the smooth feel.
  • composition comprising:
  • At least one fatty substance derived from shea preferably chosen from shea butter, shea olein and mixtures thereof;
  • - at least a dye, preferably chosen from oxidation dyes.
  • composition according to the invention may notably lead to chromatic, powerful, intense and sparingly selective colourings, i.e. colourings that are uniform along the length of the fibre. It also allows various shades to be achieved in a very wide range of colours, notably lighter shades. It also enables good colour buildup.
  • This composition also gives particularly good coverage of depigmented keratin fibres such as grey hair.
  • composition according to the invention has good working qualities, notably a creamy texture allowing quick and easy mixing with an oxidizing composition, where appropriate, and easy and uniform spreading over the entire head of hair.
  • the composition according to the invention has good stability over time, notably little or no change in its viscosity during storage.
  • a subject of the invention is also a kit comprising, in a first compartment, a composition as defined previously and, in a second compartment, an oxidizing composition comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent.
  • chemical oxidizing agent means an oxidizing agent other than atmospheric oxygen.
  • composition according to the invention comprises at least one fatty substance derived from shea, preferably chosen from shea butter, shea olein and mixtures thereof.
  • shea butter is extracted from the fruit (also called “kernels” or “nuts”) of the Butyrospemum parkii tree.
  • Each fruit contains between 45% and 55% fatty substance, which is generally extracted and refined.
  • Shea butter contains fatty acid triglycerides.
  • the fatty acid distribution of shea butter is variable, notably depending on the geographical origin of the nuts, the total percentage of stearic and oleic acids being very largely predominant and generally greater than 80% by weight relative to the total weight of fatty acids.
  • Shea olein is obtained from shea butter.
  • Shea olein is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (1 .013x10 5 Pa).
  • shea olein results from the continuous or batchwise fractionation of shea butter using an organic solvent such as alkanes, ketones, alcohols or binary and ternary azeotropic mixtures thereof.
  • the fatty acid distribution of shea olein is variable, notably depending on the geographical origin of the nuts, the percentage of oleic acid being very largely predominant and generally greater than 50% by weight relative to the total weight of fatty acids.
  • the total content of fatty acids obtained from shea ranges from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 2% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the total content of fatty acids chosen from shea butter, shea olein and mixtures thereof ranges from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably from 1 % to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 2% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the total content of shea butter ranges from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably from 1 % to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 2% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the total content of shea olein ranges from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 2% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention also comprises one or more alkyl(poly)glycoside(s).
  • alkyl(poly)glycoside denotes an alkylpolyglycoside or an alkylmonoglycoside, also referred to in the present patent application as an alkylglycoside, which may be alkoxylated with one or more preferentially C 2 to C 4 alkylene oxide groups.
  • alkyl(poly)glycoside(s) may be represented by the following general formula: R 1 O- (R 2 0)t-(G)v in which:
  • - Ri represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical including 6 to 24 carbon atoms, notably 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical in which the linear or branched alkyl radical includes 6 to 24 carbon atoms, notably 8 to 18 carbon atoms,
  • R 2 represents an alkylene radical including 2 to 4 carbon atoms
  • - G represents a sugar unit including 5 to 6 carbon atoms
  • - 1 denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10, preferably from 0 to 4,
  • - v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4.
  • alkyl(poly)glycosides are compounds having the formula described above in which:
  • - Ri denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl radical including from 8 to 18 carbon atoms
  • - F3 ⁇ 4 represents an alkylene radical including 2 to 4 carbon atoms
  • - 1 denotes a value ranging from 0 to 3, preferably equal to 0,
  • - G denotes glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose
  • the degree of polymerization i.e. the value of v, possibly ranging from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4; the mean degree of polymerization more particularly being between 1 and 2.
  • the glucoside bonds between the sugar units are generally of 1-6 or 1-4 type, preferably of 1-4 type.
  • the alkyl(poly)glycoside is an alkyl(poly)glucoside.
  • the composition comprises one or more alkyl(poly)glycosides chosen, alone or as mixtures, from (C6-C24 alkyl)(poly)glycosides, and more particularly (C8-C18 alkyl)(poly)glycosides, preferably chosen from coco glucoside, lauryl glucoside, caprylyl/capryl glucoside and cetearyl glucoside.
  • C8/C18 alkyl (poly)glucosides of 1-4 type and notably the compounds with I NCI name coco glucoside and cetearyl glucoside, are most particularly preferred.
  • the total content of alkyl(poly)glycoside(s) preferably ranges from 0.01 % to 20% by weight, preferentially from 0.02% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.08% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1 % to 3% by weight, or even from 0.2% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention comprises one or more polysaccharides chosen from anionic microbial gums.
  • the composition may comprise other polysaccharides, preferably chosen from anionic polysaccharides.
  • polysaccharides means polymers which contain at least 11 monosaccharide units.
  • the polysaccharides of the invention include between 20 and 100 000 monosaccharide units.
  • the anionic polysaccharides according to the invention comprise one or more anionic or anionizable groups, and do not comprise any cationic or cationizable groups.
  • the anionic polysaccharides that are useful according to the invention may be chosen from those derived from the following sugars: glucose; galactose; arabinose; rhamnose; mannose; xylose; fucose; anhydrogalactose; galacturonic acid; glucuronic acid; mannuronic acid; galactose sulfate; anhydrogalactose sulfate.
  • the anionic polysaccharides of the invention may be natural or synthetic.
  • the anionic polysaccharides that are useful in the composition according to the invention are chosen from native gums such as:
  • acacia gum branched polymer of galactose, arabinose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid
  • ghatti gum polymer derived from arabinose, galactose, mannose, xylose and glucuronic acid
  • karaya gum polymer derived from galacturonic acid, galactose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid
  • gum tragacanth polymer of galacturonic acid, galactose, fucose, xylose and arabinose
  • gums derived from algae such as: alginates (polymers of mannuronic acid and glucuronic acid); carrageenans and furcellerans (polymers of galactose sulfate and anhydrogalactose sulfate);
  • microbial gums such as: xanthan gums (polymer of glucose, mannose acetate, mannose/pyruvic acid and glucuronic acid); gellan gums (polymer of partially acylated glucose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid).
  • microbial gums means substances synthesized by fermentation of sugars by microorganisms.
  • the anionic polysaccharides that are useful in the composition according to the invention are chosen from xanthan gums.
  • the total content of polysaccharides preferably ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.05% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.1 % to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the total content of anionic polysaccharides as defined previously preferably ranges from 0.01 % to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.05% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.1 % to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the total content of the anionic microbial gums as defined previously ranges, when they are present, preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.1 % to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one alkaline agent.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one alkaline agent and at least one dye, the dye preferably being chosen from oxidation dyes.
  • the alkaline agents that are useful according to the invention may be mineral, organic or hybrid alkaline agents.
  • alkaline agent and “basifying agent’ are used interchangeably.
  • the mineral basifying agent(s) are preferably chosen from aqueous ammonia, alkali metal carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium (hydrogen)carbonate and potassium (hydrogen)carbonate, alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal phosphates such as sodium phosphates or potassium phosphates, sodium or potassium hydroxides, alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal silicates or metasilicates such as sodium metasilicate, and mixtures thereof.
  • the organic basifying agent(s) are preferably chosen from alkanolamines, amino acids, organic amines other than alkanolamines, oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, 1 ,3-diaminopropane, spermine, spermidine and mixtures thereof.
  • alkanolamine means an organic amine comprising a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, and one or more linear or branched Ci-Cs alkyl groups bearing one or more hydroxyl radicals.
  • Organic amines chosen from alkanolamines such as monoalkanolamines, dialkanolamines or trialkanolamines comprising one to three identical or different C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl radicals are in particular suitable for performing the invention.
  • the alkanolamine(s) are chosen from monoethanolamine (MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N- dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1 -propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2- methyl-1 ,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1 ,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1 ,2-propanediol, tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane and mixtures thereof.
  • MEA monoethanolamine
  • diethanolamine triethanolamine
  • monoisopropanolamine diisopropanolamine
  • N,N- dimethylethanolamine 2-amino-2-methyl-1 -propanol
  • 2-amino-2-methyl-1 -propanol triisopropanolamine
  • 2-amino-2- methyl-1 ,3-propanediol 3-
  • the amino acids are basic amino acids comprising an additional amine function.
  • Such basic amino acids are preferably chosen from histidine, lysine, arginine, ornithine and citrulline.
  • the organic amine may also be chosen from organic amines of heterocyclic type. Besides histidine that has already been mentioned in the amino acids, mention may in particular be made of pyridine, piperidine, imidazole, triazole, tetrazole and benzimidazole.
  • the organic amine may also be chosen from amino acid dipeptides. As amino acid dipeptides that may be used in the present invention, mention may notably be made of carnosine, anserine and balenine.
  • the organic amine may also be chosen from compounds including a guanidine function.
  • amines of this type other than arginine that may be used in the present invention, mention may notably be made of creatine, creatinine, 1 ,1-dimethylguanidine, 1 ,1- diethylguanidine, glycocyamine, metformin, agmatine, n-amidoalanine, 3- guanidinopropionic acid, 4-guanidinobutyric acid and 2- ([amino(imino)methyl]amino)ethane-1 -sulfonic acid.
  • Hybrid compounds that may be used in particular include guanidine carbonate or monoethanolamine hydrochloride.
  • the alkaline agent(s) that is/are useful according to the invention is/are preferably chosen from alkanolamines such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine; aqueous ammonia, carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium (hydrogen) carbonate and potassium (hydrogen) carbonate, alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal silicates or metasilicates such as sodium metasilicate and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from alkanolamines and aqueous ammonia, better still from alkanolamines, even better still monoethanolamine.
  • alkanolamines such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine
  • aqueous ammonia carbonates or bicarbonates
  • alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal silicates or metasilicates such as sodium metasilicate and mixtures thereof
  • the composition according to the invention is free of aqueous ammonia.
  • the total content of the alkaline agent(s), when they are present, preferably ranges from 0.1 % to 40% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 30% by weight, better still from 2% to 25% by weight, and even better still from 4% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the total content of alkanolamine preferably of monoethanolamine, preferably ranges from 0.1 % to 40% by weight, more preferentially from 1 % to 30% by weight, better still from 2% to 25% by weight, even better still from 4% to 20% by weight, or even from 8% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the pH of the composition according to the invention is between 8 and 13; preferably between 9.0 and 12.
  • the pH of the composition may be adjusted to the desired value by means of acidic or alkaline agent(s) commonly used in the dyeing of keratin fibres, such as those described hereinabove, or alternatively using buffer systems known to those skilled in the art.
  • the dyes are chosen from direct dyes, oxidation dyes and mixtures thereof.
  • These direct dyes may be synthetic or natural.
  • direct dye means coloured species. These are dyes that will spread superficially on the fibre.
  • These synthetic direct dyes are, for example, chosen from the dyes conventionally used for direct dyeing, and among which mention may be made of all the aromatic and/or non aromatic dyes that are commonly used, such as nitrobenzene, azo, hydrazono, nitro(hetero)aryl, tri(hetero)arylmethane, (poly)methine, carbonyl, azine, porphyrin, metalloporphyrin, quinone and in particular anthraquinone, indoamine and phthalocyanine direct dyes, and mixtures thereof.
  • aromatic and/or non aromatic dyes such as nitrobenzene, azo, hydrazono, nitro(hetero)aryl, tri(hetero)arylmethane, (poly)methine, carbonyl, azine, porphyrin, metalloporphyrin, quinone and in particular anthraquinone, indoamine and phthalocyanine direct dyes, and
  • nitrobenzene direct dyes mention may be made of: 1 ,4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, 1 -amino-2-nitro-4- -hydroxyethylaminobenzene, 1 -amino-2-nitro-4-bis( - hydroxyethyl)aminobenzene, 1 ,4-bis( -hydroxyethylamino)-2-nitrobenzene, 1-b- hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-bis( -hydroxyethylamino)benzene, 1 ⁇ -hydroxyethylamino-2- nitro-4-aminobenzene, 1 ⁇ -hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-(ethyl) - hydroxyethyl)aminobenzene, 1 -amino-3-methyl-4 ⁇ -hydroxyethylamino-6-nitrobenzene, 1 - amino-2-nitro-4- -hydroxyethylamino-5-chlorobenzen
  • azo direct dyes mention may be made of: Basic Red 51 , Basic Orange 31 , Disperse Red 17, Acid Yellow 9, Acid Black 1 , Basic Red 22, Basic Red 76, Basic Yellow 57, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Orange 7, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 35, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Orange 24, Disperse Black 9, Basic Brown 16, Basic Brown 17.
  • hydrazono direct dyes mention may be made of: Basic Yellow 87.
  • nitroaryl direct dyes mention may be made of: HC Blue 2, HC Yellow 2, HC Red 3,4-hydroxypropylamino-3-nitrophenol, A/,A/’-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)-2-nitrophenylenediamine.
  • Triarylmethane direct dyes mention may be made of: Basic Violet 1 , Basic Violet 2, Basic Violet 3, Basic Violet 4, Basic Violet 14, Basic Blue 1 , Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic Green 1 , Basic Blue 77 (also known as HC Blue 15), Acid Blue 1 ; Acid Blue 3; Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 9; Acid Violet 49; Acid Green 3; Acid Green 5; Acid Green 50.
  • Disperse Red 15 Solvent Violet 13, Acid Violet 43, Disperse Violet 1 , Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Blue 1 , Disperse Violet 8, Disperse Blue 3, Disperse Red 11 , Acid Blue 62, Disperse Blue 7, Basic Blue 22, Disperse Violet 15, Basic Blue 99, and also the following compounds: 1-N- methylmorpholiniumpropylamino-4-hydroxyanthraquinone, 1-aminopropylamino-4- methylaminoanthraquinone, 1-aminopropylaminoanthraquinone, 5-p-hydroxyethyl-1 ,4- diaminoanthraquinone, 2-aminoethylaminoanthraquinone, 1 ,4-bis( ,y- dihydroxypropylamino)anthraquinone, Acid Blue 25, Acid Blue 43, Acid Blue 78, Acid Blue 129, Acid Blue 138, Acid Blue 140, Acid Blue 25, Acid Blue 43, Acid Blue 78, Acid Blue
  • azine direct dyes mention may be made of: Basic Blue 17, Basic Red 2.
  • indoamine direct dyes mention may be made of: 2-p-hydroxyethlyamino-5- [bis(P-4’-hydroxyethyl)amino]anilino-1 ,4-benzoquinone, 2-p-hydroxyethylamino-5-(2’- methoxy-4’-amino)anilino-1 ,4-benzoquinone, 3-N-(2’-chloro-4’- hydroxy)phenylacetylamino-6-methoxy-1 ,4-benzoquinoneimine, 3-N-(3’-chloro-4’- methylamino)phenylureido-6-methyl-1 ,4-benzoquinoneimine, 3-[4’-N-
  • the natural direct dyes are chosen, for example, from lawsone, juglone, indigo, leuco indigo, indirubin, isatin, hennotannic acid, alizarin, carthamine, morin, purpurin, carminic acid, kermesic acid, laccaic acid, purpurogallin, protocatechaldehyde, curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidin, orceins, carotenoids, betanin, chlorophylls, chlorophyllines, monascus, polyphenols or ortho-diphenols.
  • ortho-diphenols that are useful according to the invention, mention may be made of: catechin, quercetin, brazilin, haematein, haematoxylin, chlorogenic acid, caffeic acid, gallic acid, L-DOPA, cyanidin, (-)-epicatechin, (-)-epigallocatechin, (-)-epigallocatechin 3- gallate (EGCG), isoquercetin, pomiferin, esculetin, 6,7-dihydroxy-3-(3-hydroxy-2,4- dimethoxyphenyl)coumarin, santalin A and B, mangiferin, butein, maritimetin, sulfuretin, robtein, betanidin, pericampylinone A, theaflavin, proanthocyanidin A2, proanthocyanidin B2, proanthocyanidin C1 , procyanidins DP 4-8, tannic acid, purpurogallin, 5,6-d
  • compositions comprise at least one direct dye
  • they are preferably present in a total content ranging from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5%, and even better still from 0.1 % to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises one or more dyes chosen from oxidation dyes.
  • the oxidation dyes may be chosen from one or more oxidation bases, optionally in combination with one or more couplers.
  • the oxidation dye(s) comprise one or more oxidation bases.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises one or more oxidation bases.
  • the oxidation bases may be present in the form of salts, solvates and/or solvates of salts.
  • the addition salts of the oxidation bases present in the composition according to the invention are chosen notably from the addition salts with an acid, such as the hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, methanesulfonates, phosphates and acetates, and the addition salts with a base such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, aqueous ammonia, amines or alkanolamines.
  • an acid such as the hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, methanesulfonates, phosphates and acetates
  • a base such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, aqueous ammonia, amines or alkanolamines.
  • the solvates of the oxidation bases more particularly represent the hydrates of said oxidation bases and/or the combination of said oxidation bases with a linear or branched Ci to C 4 alcohol such as methanol, ethanol, isopropanol or n-propanol.
  • the solvates are hydrates.
  • the oxidation bases are chosen from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases and the corresponding addition salts, solvates and/or solvates of the salts.
  • para-phenylenediamines that may be mentioned are, for example, para- phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl- para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para- phenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-para- phenylenediamine, N , N-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N ,N-dipropyl-para- phenylenediamine, 4-amino-N,N-diethyl-3-methylaniline, N,N-bis -hydroxyethyl)-para- phenylenediamine, 4-N,N-bis -hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylaniline, 4-N,N-bis - hydroxye
  • para-phenylenediamine para-toluenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-b- hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-(y-hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2- methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-b-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6- dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para- phenylenediamine, N,N-bis(b-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-chloro-para- phenylenediamine and 2- -acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, and the corresponding addition salts, solvates and/or solvates
  • bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines that may be mentioned, for example, are N,N’- bis( -hydroxyethyl)-N,N’-bis(4’-aminophenyl)-1 ,3-diaminopropanol, N,N’-bis( - hydroxyethyl)-N,N’-bis(4’-aminophenyl)ethylenediamine, N,N’-bis(4- aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N’-bis( -hydroxyethyl)-N,N’-bis(4- aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N’-bis(4- methylaminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N’-bis(ethyl)-N,N’-bis(4’-amino-3’- methylphenyl)ethylenediamine and 1 ,8-bis(2,5-diaminophenoxy
  • para-aminophenols that are mentioned are, for example, para-aminophenol, 4- amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 4-amino-3-chlorophenol, 4-amino-3- hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino- 2-methoxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2-( - hydroxyethylaminomethyl)phenol and 4-amino-2-fluorophenol, and the addition salts, the solvates and/or the solvates of the salts.
  • para-aminophenol 4- amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 4-amino-3-chlorophenol, 4-amino-3- hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino- 2-methoxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino
  • ortho-aminophenols that may be mentioned, for example, are 2-aminophenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol, 2-amino-6-methylphenol and 5-acetamido-2-aminophenol, and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and the solvates of the salts.
  • heterocyclic bases that may be mentioned, for example, are pyridine, pyrimidine and pyrazole derivatives.
  • pyridine derivatives that may be mentioned are the compounds described, for example, in patents GB 1 026 978 and GB 1 153 196, for example 2,5-diaminopyridine, 2- (4-methoxyphenyl)amino-3-aminopyridine and 3,4-diaminopyridine, and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and the solvates of the salts.
  • pyridine oxidation bases that are useful in the present invention are the 3- aminopyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyridine oxidation bases or the corresponding addition salts described, for example, in patent application FR 2 801 308.
  • Examples that may be mentioned include pyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-acetylaminopyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyrid-3- ylamine, 2-(morpholin-4-yl)pyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 3-aminopyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyridine- 2-carboxylic acid, 2-methoxypyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, (3-aminopyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyrid- 7-yl)methanol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)
  • the oxidation bases that are useful in the present invention are chosen from 3-aminopyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyridines and preferably substituted on carbon atom 2 with: a) a (di)(C1-C6)(alkyl)amino group, said alkyl group possibly being substituted with at least one hydroxyl, amino or imidazolium group; b) an optionally cationic 5- to 7-membered heterocycloalkyl group containing from 1 to 3 heteroatoms, optionally substituted with one or more (C1-C6)alkyl groups, such as a di(C1- C4)alkylpiperazinium group; or c) a (C1-C6)alkoxy group optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, such as a b-hydroxyalkoxy group, and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and the solvates of the salts.
  • pyrimidine derivatives that may be mentioned are the compounds described, for example, in patents DE 2359399; JP 88-169571 ; JP 05-63124; EP 0770375 or patent application WO 96/15765, such as 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6- triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6- diaminopyrimidine, 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine and the addition salts thereof, the solvates and the solvates of the salts thereof, and the tautomeric forms thereof, when a tautomeric equilibrium exists.
  • pyrazole derivatives that may be mentioned are the compounds described in patents DE 3843892 and DE 4133957 and patent applications WO 94/08969, WO 94/08970, FR-A-2733749 and DE 19543988, for instance 4,5-diamino-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1 - -hydroxyethyl)pyrazole, 3,4-diaminopyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1 -(4 - chlorobenzyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1 ,3-dimethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1- phenylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-methyl-3-phenylpyrazole, 4-amino-1 ,3-dimethyl-5- hydrazinopyrazole, 1 -benzyl-4, 5-diamino-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamin
  • a 4,5-diaminopyrazole will preferably be used and even more preferentially 4,5-diamino-1- ( -hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and/or a corresponding salt, a solvate and/or a solvate of a salt.
  • pyrazole derivatives that may also be mentioned comprise diamino-N,N- dihydropyrazolopyrazolones and in particular those described in patent application FR-A-2 886 136, such as the following compounds and the corresponding addition salts: 2,3- diamino-6,7-dihydro-1 H,5H-pyrazolo[1 ,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-ethylamino-6,7- dihydro-1 H,5H-pyrazolo[1 ,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-isopropylamino-6,7-dihydro- 1 H ,5H-pyrazolo[1 ,2-a]pyrazol-1 -one, 2-amino-3-(pyrrolidin-1 -yl)-6,7-dihydro-1 H ,5H- pyrazolo[1 ,2-a]pyrazol-1 -one, 4,5-diamino
  • Use will preferably be made of 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1 H,5H-pyrazolo[1 ,2-a]pyrazol-1- one and/or a corresponding salt, solvate and/or solvate of a salt.
  • Use will preferably be made, as heterocyclic bases, of 4,5-diamino-1-( - hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and/or 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1 H,5H-pyrazolo[1 ,2-a]pyrazol-1-one and/or 2 ⁇ -hydroxyethoxy-3-aminopyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyridine and/or a corresponding salt, solvate and/or solvate of a salt.
  • the oxidation base(s) are chosen from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases, and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates thereof and the solvates of the salts thereof, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from 2-methoxymethyl-para- phenylenediamine, 2- -hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-y-hydroxypropyl-para- phenylenediamine, and the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof and/or the solvates of the salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
  • the oxidation base(s) are preferably present in a total content ranging from 0.001 % to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5%, even better still from 0.1 % to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
  • the composition comprises at least one oxidation base chosen from 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2- -hydroxyethyl- para-phenylenediamine, 2-y-hydroxypropyl-para-phenylenediamine, addition salts thereof, solvates thereof and/or solvates of the salts thereof and mixtures thereof
  • said base(s) are present in a total content ranging from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5%, even better still from 0.1 % to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention is free of oxidation bases chosen from para-phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, addition salts thereof, solvates thereof and solvates of the salts thereof.
  • the oxidation dye(s) may also be chosen from one or more couplers, which may be chosen from the couplers conventionally used for the dyeing of keratin fibres.
  • composition according to the invention comprises one or more couplers.
  • couplers that are useful according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalene- based coupling agents and heterocyclic coupling agents, and also the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and solvates of the salts thereof.
  • the coupler(s) are chosen from: 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof and/or the solvates of the salts thereof, hydroxyethyl-3,4- methylenedioxyaniline, the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof and/or the solvates of the salts thereof, 2-amino-5-ethylphenol, the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof and/or the solvates of the salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
  • addition salts of the couplers that may be used in the context of the invention are chosen in particular from addition salts with an acid, such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates, and the addition salts with a base such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, aqueous ammonia, amines or alkanolamines.
  • an acid such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates
  • a base such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, aqueous ammonia, amines or alkanolamines.
  • the solvates more particularly represent the hydrates of these couplers and/or the combination of these couplers with a linear or branched C1 to C4 alcohol such as methanol, ethanol, isopropanol or n-propanol.
  • a linear or branched C1 to C4 alcohol such as methanol, ethanol, isopropanol or n-propanol.
  • the solvates are hydrates.
  • the composition according to the invention is free of oxidation couplers chosen from resorcinol, 2-methylresorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof and the solvates of the salts thereof.
  • the total content of the coupler(s) present in the composition according to the invention ranges from 0.001 % to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 15% by weight, better still from 0.01 % to 10% by weight, even better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the total content of the couplers chosen from 6- hydroxybenzomorpholine, hydroxyethyl-3-4-methylenedioxyaniline, 2-amino-5-ethylphenol and also the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof and/or the solvates of the salts thereof preferably ranges from 0.001 % to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 15% by weight, better still from 0.01 % to 10% by weight, even better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and even better still from 0.1 % to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the total content of the couplers chosen from 6- hydroxybenzomorpholine, the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof and/or the solvates of the salts thereof preferably ranges from 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 15% by weight, better still 0.01% to 10% by weight, even better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and even better still from 0.1 % to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the total content of the couplers chosen from hydroxyethyl-3,4- methylenedioxyaniline, the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof and/or the solvates of the salts thereof preferably ranges from 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 15% by weight, better still from 0.01% to 10% by weight, even better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and even better still from 0.1 % to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the total content of the couplers chosen from 2-amino-5- ethylphenol, the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof and/or the solvates of the salts thereof preferably ranges from 0.001 % to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 15% by weight, better still from 0.01% to 10% by weight, even better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and even better still from 0.1 % to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the total content of the dyes preferably ranges from 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 15% by weight, better still from 0.01% to 10% by weight, even better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and even better still from 0.1 % to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the total content of the oxidation dyes preferably ranges from 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 15% by weight, better still from 0.01% to 10% by weight, even better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one sequestrant (or chelating agent).
  • sequestrant or chelating agent
  • the composition according to the invention comprises one or more sequestrants.
  • a “sequestrant” (or “chelating agent”) is well known to those skilled in the art and refers to a compound or a mixture of compounds that are capable of forming a chelate with a metal ion.
  • a chelate is an inorganic complex in which a compound (the sequestrant or chelating agent) is coordinated to a metal ion, i.e. it forms one or more bonds with the metal ion (formation of a ring including the metal ion).
  • a sequestrant (or chelating agent) generally comprises at least two electron-donating atoms which enable the formation of bonds with the metal ion.
  • the sequestrant(s) may be chosen from carboxylic acids, preferably aminocarboxylic acids, phosphonic acids, preferably aminophosphonic acids, polyphosphoric acids, preferably linear polyphosphoric acids, salts thereof, and derivatives thereof.
  • the salts are in particular alkali metal, alkaline-earth metal, ammonium and substituted ammonium salts.
  • chelating agents based on carboxylic acids diethylenetriamine pentaacetic acid (DTPA), ethylenediamine disuccinic acid (EDDS) and trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate such as Octaquest E30 from Octel, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and salts thereof such as disodium EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA, ethylenediamine-N,N’-diglutaric acid (EDDG), glycinamide-N,N’- disuccinic acid (GADS), 2-hydroxypropylenediamine-N,N ’-disuccinic acid (HPDDS), ethylenediamine-N,N’-bis(ortho-hydroxyphenylacetic acid) (EDDHA), N,N’-bis(2- hydroxybenzyl)ethylenediamine-N,N’-diacetic acid (HBED), nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA),
  • DTPA diethylenetriamine
  • chelating agents based on mono- or polyphosphonic acid diethylenetriaminepenta(methylene phosphonic acid) (DTPMP), ethane-1 -hydroxy-1, 1,2-triphosphonic acid (E1HTP), ethane-2-hydroxy-1 ,1 ,2- triphosphonic acid (E2HTP), ethane-1 -hydroxy-1, 1-triphosphonic acid (EH DP), ethane- 1 ,1 ,2-triphosphonic acid (ETP), ethylenediaminetetramethylene phosphonic acid (EDTMP), hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonic acid (HEDP, or etidronic acid), and salts such as disodium etidronate, tetrasodium etidronate.
  • DTPMP diethylenetriaminepenta(methylene phosphonic acid)
  • E1HTP 1,2-triphosphonic acid
  • E2HTP ethane-2-hydroxy-1 ,1 ,2- triphosphonic acid
  • chelating agents based on polyphosphoric acid sodium tripolyphosphate (STP), tetrasodium diphosphate, hexametaphosphoric acid, sodium metaphosphate, phytic acid.
  • STP sodium tripolyphosphate
  • tetrasodium diphosphate tetrasodium diphosphate
  • hexametaphosphoric acid sodium metaphosphate
  • phytic acid sodium tripolyphosphate
  • the sequestrant(s) that are useful according to the invention are phosphorus-based sequestrants, i.e. sequestrants which comprise one or more phosphorus atoms, preferably at least two phosphorus atoms.
  • the phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) used in the composition according to the invention are preferably chosen from:
  • alkali metal or alkaline- earth metal preferably alkali metal, phosphates and pyrophosphates, such as sodium pyrophosphate, potassium pyrophosphate, sodium pyrophosphate decahydrate; and alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, preferably alkali metal, polyphosphates, such as sodium hexametaphosphate, sodium polyphosphate, sodium tripolyphosphate, sodium trimetaphosphate; which are optionally hydrated, and mixtures thereof;
  • organic phosphorus-based derivatives such as organic (poly)phosphates and (poly)phosphonates, such as etidronic acid and/or alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts thereof, for instance tetrasodium etidronate, disodium etidronate, and mixtures thereof.
  • the phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) are chosen from linear or cyclic compounds comprising at least two phosphorus atoms bonded together covalently via at least one linker L comprising at least one oxygen atom and/or at least one carbon atom.
  • the phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) may be chosen from inorganic phosphorus-based derivatives, preferably comprising at least two phosphorus atoms. More preferentially, the phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) are chosen from alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal pyrophosphates, better still from alkali metal pyrophosphates, in particular sodium pyrophosphate (also known as tetrasodium pyrophosphate).
  • the phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) may be chosen from organic phosphorus-based derivatives, preferably comprising at least two phosphorus atoms.
  • the phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) are chosen from etidronic acid (also known as 1- hydroxyethane-1 ,1-diphosphonic acid) and/or alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, preferably alkali metal, salts thereof, for instance tetrasodium etidronate and disodium etidronate.
  • etidronic acid also known as 1- hydroxyethane-1 ,1-diphosphonic acid
  • alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal preferably alkali metal, salts thereof, for instance tetrasodium etidronate and disodium etidronate.
  • the phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) are chosen from alkali metal pyrophosphates, etidronic acid and/or alkali metal salts thereof, and a mixture of these compounds.
  • the phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) are chosen from tetrasodium etidronate, disodium etidronate, etidronic acid, tetrasodium pyrophosphate, and a mixture of these compounds.
  • the sequestrants are preferably chosen from diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DTPA) and salts thereof, diethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and salts thereof, ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS) and salts thereof, etidronic acid and salts thereof, N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid and salts thereof (GLDA), and mixtures thereof.
  • DTPA diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid
  • EDTA diethylenediaminetetraacetic acid
  • EDDS ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid
  • etidronic acid and salts thereof etidronic acid and salts thereof, N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid and salts thereof (GLDA), and mixtures thereof.
  • the sequestrant(s) are chosen from N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid and salts thereof (GLDA), and mixtures thereof.
  • the alkali metal salts and notably the sodium or potassium salts are preferred.
  • the total content of the sequestrant(s) preferably ranges from 0.001 % to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.01 % to 8% by weight, even better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more fatty substances other than fatty acids and other than fatty substances derived from shea.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises one or more fatty substances other than fatty acids and other than fatty substances derived from shea.
  • fatty substance means an organic compound that is insoluble in water at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (1 .013x10 5 Pa) (solubility of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferentially less than 0.1% by weight). They bear in their structure at least one hydrocarbon-based chain including at least 6 carbon atoms and/or a sequence of at least two siloxane groups.
  • the fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for instance chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), liquid petroleum jelly or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.
  • organic solvents for instance chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), liquid petroleum jelly or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.
  • the fatty substances that may be used in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated.
  • the fatty substances that may be used according to the invention are non silicone fatty substances.
  • non-silicone fatty substance refers to a fatty substance not containing any Si-0 bonds and the term “silicone fatty substance” refers to a fatty substance containing at least one Si-0 bond.
  • the fatty substances that are useful according to the invention may be liquid fatty substances (or oils) and/or solid fatty substances.
  • liquid fatty substance means a fatty substance with a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1 .013x10 5 Pa) and the term “solid fatty substance” means a fatty substance with a melting point of greater than 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013x10 5 Pa).
  • the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed on thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in the standard ISO 11357-3; 1999.
  • the melting point may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA Instruments.
  • DSC differential scanning calorimeter
  • all the melting points are determined at atmospheric pressure (1.013x10 s Pa).
  • the liquid fatty substance(s) may be chosen from C6 to C16 liquid hydrocarbons, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin, oils of triglyceride type of plant or synthetic origin other than shea oil, fluoro oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of fatty acid and/or of fatty alcohol other than triglycerides, and mixtures thereof.
  • the fatty alcohols and esters more particularly contain at least one saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based group, comprising 6 to 40 and better still from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally substituted, in particular, with one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
  • C6 to C16 liquid hydrocarbons these may be linear, branched, or optionally cyclic, and are preferably chosen from alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane or isoparaffins, such as isohexadecane or isodecane, and mixtures thereof.
  • the liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms may be linear or branched, and of mineral or synthetic origin, and are preferably chosen from liquid paraffins or liquid petroleum jelly (or mineral oil), polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®, and mixtures thereof.
  • a hydrocarbon-based oil of animal origin that may be mentioned is perhydrosqualene.
  • the triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from liquid fatty acid triglycerides including from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, maize oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company Stearinerie Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, and mixtures thereof.
  • liquid fatty acid triglycerides including from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, maize oil, soybean oil,
  • fluoro oils they may be chosen from perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1 ,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names Flutec® PC1 and Flutec® PC3 by the company BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1 ,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names PF 5050® and PF 5060® by the company 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name Foralkyl® by the company Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives such as 4- trifluoromethylperfluoromorpholine sold under the name PF 5052® by the company 3M.
  • liquid fatty alcohols that are suitable for use in the invention are more particularly chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alcohols, preferably unsaturated or branched alcohols, comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated.
  • Examples that may be mentioned include octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2- undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, ricinoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol and linoleyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
  • oleyl alcohol will be used.
  • liquid esters of fatty acids and/or of fatty alcohols other than the triglycerides mentioned previously, mention may be made notably of esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear C1 to C26 or branched C3 to C26 aliphatic mono- or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear C1 to C26 or branched C3 to C26 aliphatic mono- or polyalcohols, the total carbon number of the esters being greater than or equal to 6 and more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.
  • esters of monoalcohols Preferably, for the esters of monoalcohols, at least one from among the alcohol and the acid is branched.
  • dihydroabietyl behenate octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; octyl isononanoate; 2- ethylhexyl isononate; octyldodecyl
  • ethyl palmitate and isopropyl palmitate alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.
  • Esters of C4 to C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C1 to C22 alcohols and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C2 to C26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
  • composition may also comprise, as fatty ester, sugar esters and diesters of C6 to C30 and preferably C12 to C22 fatty acids.
  • sugar esters refers to oxygen bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds bearing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which include at least 4 carbon atoms.
  • sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides other than the anionic polysaccharides described previously.
  • suitable sugars include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, notably alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance methylglucose.
  • the sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen notably from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6 to C30 and preferably C12 to C22 fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
  • the esters may also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
  • esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates, arachidonates or mixtures thereof notably such as the mixed oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate and palmito-stearate esters
  • monoesters and diesters and notably sucrose, glucose or methylglucose mono- or di-oleates, -stearates, -behenates, -oleopalmitates, -linoleates, - linolenates and -oleostearates, and mixtures thereof.
  • liquid ester of a monoacid and of a monoalcohol Preferably, use will be made of a liquid ester of a monoacid and of a monoalcohol.
  • fatty substances that are useful according to the invention are chosen from liquid fatty substances, preferably from liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, plant oils other than shea olein, liquid fatty alcohols and liquid fatty esters, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from liquid fatty alcohols.
  • the liquid fatty substance(s) are chosen from liquid fatty alcohols, in particular oleyl alcohol.
  • the solid fatty substances preferably have a viscosity of greater than 2 Pa.s, measured at 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s 1 .
  • the solid fatty substance(s) are preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and/or of fatty alcohols, waxes, ceramides and mixtures thereof.
  • fatty alcohol means a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and comprising at least one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated.
  • the solid fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated, and linear or branched, and include from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • the solid fatty alcohols have the structure R-OH with R denoting a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40, preferentially from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms and even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • the solid fatty alcohols that may be used are preferably chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, preferably linear and saturated, (mono)alcohols including from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 and even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • the solid fatty alcohols that may be used may be chosen, alone or as a mixture, from: myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (or 1- octadecanol); arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol); ceryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol); montanyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol); myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).
  • the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol.
  • the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof such as cetylstearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol.
  • the solid esters of a fatty acid and/or of a fatty alcohol that may be used are preferably chosen from esters derived from a C9-C26 carboxylic fatty acid and/or from a C9-C26 fatty alcohol.
  • these solid fatty esters are esters of a linear or branched, saturated carboxylic acid including at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and of a linear or branched, saturated monoalcohol, including at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms.
  • the saturated carboxylic acids may optionally be hydroxylated, and are preferably monocarboxylic acids.
  • Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22 alcohols and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C2-C26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
  • the solid esters of a fatty acid and/or of a fatty alcohol are chosen from C9-C26 alkyl palmitates, notably myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate or stearyl palmitate; C9-C26 alkyl myristates, such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyl myristate; and C9-C26 alkyl stearates, notably myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate and stearyl stearate; and mixtures thereof.
  • C9-C26 alkyl palmitates notably myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate or stearyl palmitate
  • C9-C26 alkyl myristates such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyl myristate
  • C9-C26 alkyl stearates notably myristyl stearate, cety
  • a wax is a lipophilic compound, which is solid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, with a reversible solid/liquid change of state, having a melting point greater than about 40°C, which may be up to 200°C, and having in the solid state anisotropic crystal organization.
  • the size of the wax crystals is such that the crystals diffract and/or scatter light, giving the composition that comprises them a more or less opaque cloudy appearance.
  • the waxes that are suitable for use in the invention may be chosen from waxes of animal, plant or mineral origin, non-silicone synthetic waxes, and mixtures thereof.
  • hydrocarbon-based waxes for instance beeswax, notably of organic origin, lanolin wax and Chinese insect waxes; rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japan wax and sumac wax; montan wax, orange wax and lemon wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, the waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, and also esters thereof.
  • beeswax notably of organic origin, lanolin wax and Chinese insect waxes
  • rice bran wax carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japan wax and sumac wax
  • montan wax orange wax and lemon wax
  • microcrystalline waxes microcrystalline waxes
  • polyethylene waxes the waxes obtained
  • C20 to C60 microcrystalline waxes such as Microwax HW.
  • waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils containing linear or branched C8 to C32 fatty chains may also be made of the waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils containing linear or branched C8 to C32 fatty chains.
  • isomerized jojoba oil such as the trans-isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, notably the product manufactured or sold by the company Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut kernel oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil and bis(1 ,1 ,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate, notably the product sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company Heterene.
  • the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol such as those sold under the names Phytowax Castor 16L64® and 22L73® by the company Sophim, may also be used.
  • a wax that may also be used is a C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group containing from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture.
  • a wax is notably sold under the names Kester Wax K 82 P®, Hydroxypolyester K 82 P® and Kester Wax K 80 P® by the company Koster Keunen.
  • microwaxes in the compositions of the invention; mention may notably be made of carnauba microwaxes, such as the product sold under the name MicroCare 350® by the company Micro Powders, synthetic-wax microwaxes, such as the product sold under the name MicroEase 114S® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes constituted of a mixture of carnauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as the products sold under the names Micro Care 300® and 310® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes constituted of a mixture of carnauba wax and of synthetic wax, such as the product sold under the name Micro Care 325® by the company Micro Powders, polyethylene microwaxes, such as the products sold under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by the company Micro Powders, and polytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes, such as the products sold under the names Microslip 519® and 519 L® by the company Micro Powders.
  • the waxes are preferably chosen from mineral waxes, for instance paraffin, petroleum jelly, lignite or ozokerite wax; plant waxes, for instance cocoa butter or cork fibre or sugar cane waxes, olive tree wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, ouricury wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, esparto grass wax, or absolute waxes of flowers, such as the essential wax of blackcurrant blossom sold by the company Bertin (France); waxes of animal origin, for instance beeswaxes or modified beeswaxes (cera bellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; microcrystalline waxes; and mixtures thereof.
  • mineral waxes for instance paraffin, petroleum jelly, lignite or ozokerite wax
  • plant waxes for instance cocoa butter or cork fibre or sugar cane waxes, olive tree wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, ouricury wax, carnauba wax
  • ceramides or ceramide analogues such as glycoceramides, which may be used in the compositions according to the invention, are known; mention may be made in particular of ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the Dawning classification.
  • ceramides or analogues thereof that may be used preferably correspond to the following formula: R 3 CH(0H)CH(CH20R 2 )(NHC0R 1 ), in which:
  • R 1 denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group, derived from C 14 -C 30 fatty acids, it being possible for this group to be substituted with a hydroxyl group in the alpha position, or a hydroxyl group in the omega position esterified with a saturated or unsaturated C 16 -C 30 fatty acid;
  • R 2 denotes a hydrogen atom, a (glycosyl)n group, a (galactosyl)m group or a sulfogalactosyl group, in which n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8;
  • R 3 denotes a C 15 -C 26 hydrocarbon-based group, saturated or unsaturated in the alpha position, this group possibly being substituted with one or more C 1 -C 14 alkyl groups; it being understood that in the case of natural ceramides or glycoceramides, R 3 may also denote a C 15 -C 26 alpha-hydroxyalkyl group, the hydroxyl group being optionally esterified with a C 16 - C 30 alpha-hydroxy acid.
  • the ceramides that are more particularly preferred are the compounds for which R 1 denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from C 16 -C 22 fatty acids; R 2 denotes a hydrogen atom and R 3 denotes a saturated linear C 15 group.
  • R 1 denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical derived from C12-C22 fatty acids
  • R 2 denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl radical
  • 2-N- linoleoylaminooctadecane-1 ,3-diol 2-N-oleoylaminooctadecane-1 ,3-diol
  • 2- N-stearoylaminooctadecane-1 ,3,4-triol and in particular N-stearoylphytosphingosine, 2-N- palmitoylaminohexadecane-1 ,3-diol, N-linole
  • the solid fatty substances are preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols, in particular from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol.
  • the fatty substances, other than fatty acids and other than fatty substances derived from shea, that are useful according to the invention are chosen from solid fatty substances, preferably from solid fatty alcohols.
  • the total content of the fatty substance(s), other than fatty acids and other than fatty substances derived from shea preferably ranges from 5% to 30% by weight, more preferentially from 8% to 25% by weight and better still from 10% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises one or more solid fatty substances other than fatty acids, the total content of the solid fatty substance(s) other than fatty acids preferably ranging from 5% to 30% by weight, more preferentially from 8% to 25% by weight and better still from 10% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises one or more liquid fatty substances other than fatty acids, the total content of the liquid fatty substance(s) other than fatty acids preferably ranging from 0.5% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 1 % to 10% by weight and better still from 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises one or more solid fatty substances other than fatty acids and other than fatty substances derived from shea, preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols and one or more liquid fatty substances other than fatty acids and other than fatty substances derived from shea, preferably chosen from liquid fatty alcohols.
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more anionic surfactants.
  • composition according to the present invention comprises one or more anionic surfactants.
  • anionic surfactant means a surfactant including, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups. These anionic groups are preferably chosen from the following groups:
  • anionic surfactants that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, alkyl sulfonates, alkylamide sulfonates, alkylaryl sulfonates, a-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, acyl sarcosinates, acyl glutamates, alkyl sulfosuccinamates, acyl isethionates and N-(C1-C4)alkyl N-acyl taurates, salts of alkyl
  • These compounds may be oxyethylenated and then preferably include from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units.
  • the salts of C6-C 2 4 alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids may be chosen from C6-C 2 4 alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C6-C 2 4 alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and C6-C 2 4 alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates.
  • the anionic surfactant(s) when they are in salt form, they may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt and preferably the sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts or alkaline-earth metal salts such as the magnesium salt.
  • amino alcohol salts examples include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1 -propanol salts, 2- amino-2-methyl-1 ,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.
  • Alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.
  • the anionic surfactants that may be present may be mild anionic surfactants, i.e. anionic surfactants not bearing a sulfate function.
  • mild anionic surfactants mention may be made in particular of the following compounds and salts thereof, and also mixtures thereof: polyoxyalkylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated alkylaryl ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated alkylamido ether carboxylic acids, in particular those including 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, alkyl D-galactoside uronic acids, acyl sarcosinates, acyl glutamates and alkylpolyglycoside carboxylic esters.
  • Use may be made most particularly of polyoxyalkylenated carboxylic acid alkyl ethers, for instance carboxylic acid lauryl ether (4.5 OE) sold, for example, under the name Akypo RLM 45 CA from Kao.
  • carboxylic acid lauryl ether 4.5 OE
  • the anionic surfactants that may be present may be carboxylic acids comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, also known as fatty acids, optionally in salified form.
  • fatty acid means an acid comprising at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based chain, such as an alkyl or alkenyl chain, including at least 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and better still from 10 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • the carboxylic acids comprising at least 6 carbon atoms (or fatty acids) according to the invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated, nor (poly)glycerolated; in particular, they are neither (poly)oxyethylenated, nor (poly)oxypropylenated.
  • the fatty acid according to the invention is chosen from linear fatty acids, better still from unsaturated linear C10-C22 and notably C10-C18 fatty acids (R is a linear C9-C23 or even C9-C17 alkenyl).
  • Mention may notably be made of oleic, linoleic, linolenic and undecylenic acids, and mixtures thereof.
  • oleic acid will be used.
  • fatty acids are preferably used.
  • the total content of anionic surfactant(s) in the composition preferably ranges from 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1 % to 10% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 8% by weight, even better still from 1% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the total content of fatty acids in the composition preferably ranges from 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 8% by weight, even better still from 1% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention comprises:
  • At least one fatty substance derived from shea preferably chosen from shea butter, shea olein and mixtures thereof;
  • composition according to the invention comprises:
  • At least one fatty substance derived from shea preferably chosen from shea butter, shea olein and mixtures thereof;
  • - at least one alkaline agent - at least one dye chosen from direct dyes, oxidation dyes and mixtures thereof, preferably at least one dye chosen from oxidation dyes and mixtures thereof;
  • - at least one sequestrant preferably chosen from diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DTPA) and salts thereof, diethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and salts thereof, ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS) and salts thereof, etidronic acid and salts thereof, N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid (GLDA) and salts thereof, and mixtures thereof;
  • DTPA diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid
  • EDTA diethylenediaminetetraacetic acid
  • EDDS ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid
  • etidronic acid and salts thereof etidronic acid and salts thereof, N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid (GLDA) and salts thereof, and mixtures thereof;
  • At least one fatty substance other than fatty substances derived from shea and other than fatty acids preferably at least one liquid fatty substance and at least one solid fatty substance.
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one organic solvent.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one organic solvent.
  • organic solvents examples include linear or branched C2-C4 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; polyols and polyol ethers, for instance 2- butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, 1 ,3-propanediol, dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether and monoethyl ether, and also aromatic alcohols or ethers, for instance benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.
  • linear or branched C2-C4 alkanols such as ethanol and isopropanol
  • polyols and polyol ethers for instance 2- butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, 1 ,3-propanediol, dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether and monoethyl ether
  • aromatic alcohols or ethers for instance
  • the organic solvent(s) are chosen from polyols, more preferentially, glycerol, 1 ,3-propanediol, and mixtures thereof.
  • the organic solvent(s) may be present in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably ranging from 2% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention is preferably an aqueous composition.
  • the composition preferably comprises water in an amount of greater than or equal to 5% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 10% by weight, and better still greater than or equal to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more additives, other than the compounds of the invention and among which mention may be made of cationic, anionic, nonionic or amphoteric polymers or mixtures thereof, other than those mentioned previously, antidandruff agents, anti-seborrhoeic agents, agents for preventing hair loss and/or for promoting hair regrowth, vitamins and provitamins including panthenol, sunscreens, mineral or organic pigments, plasticizers, solubilizers, opacifiers or nacreous agents, antioxidants, hydroxy acids, fragrances, and preserving agents.
  • additives other than the compounds of the invention and among which mention may be made of cationic, anionic, nonionic or amphoteric polymers or mixtures thereof, other than those mentioned previously, antidandruff agents, anti-seborrhoeic agents, agents for preventing hair loss and/or for promoting hair regrowth, vitamins and provitamins including panthenol, sunscreens, mineral or
  • the above additives may generally be present in an amount, for each of them, of between 0 and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the ready-to-use composition.
  • composition according to the invention does not comprise any chemical oxidizing agents.
  • the present invention also relates to a process for dyeing keratin fibres, preferably the hair, which comprises the application to said keratin fibres of an effective amount of a composition as defined previously.
  • the composition may be applied to wet or dry keratin fibres.
  • the keratin fibres are optionally rinsed with water, optionally washed with a shampoo and then rinsed with water, before being dried or left to dry.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one oxidizing agent, preferably hydrogen peroxide.
  • the composition according to the invention is mixed at the time of use with a composition comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent, preferably hydrogen peroxide.
  • a composition comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent, preferably hydrogen peroxide.
  • the composition according to the invention results from the mixing of at least two compositions: a dye composition comprising:
  • At least one fatty substance derived from shea preferably chosen from shea butter, shea olein and mixtures thereof;
  • the process according to the invention comprises a step of mixing the composition according to the invention with an oxidizing composition comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent.
  • This mixing step is preferably performed at the time of use, just before applying to the hair the composition resulting from the mixing.
  • the process for dyeing keratin fibres, preferably the hair comprises the step of applying to the keratin fibres a composition resulting from the mixing, at the time of use, of at least two compositions: a) a composition comprising:
  • At least one fatty substance derived from shea preferably chosen from shea butter, shea olein and mixtures thereof;
  • - at least a dye, preferably chosen from oxidation dyes, and b) an oxidizing composition comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents, preferably hydrogen peroxide.
  • the process according to the invention is a process for dyeing keratin fibres, preferably the hair.
  • the process for dyeing keratin fibres, preferably the hair, according to the invention comprises the step of applying to the keratin fibres a composition resulting from the mixing, at the time of use, of at least two compositions: a) a dye composition comprising:
  • At least one fatty substance derived from shea preferably chosen from shea butter, shea olein and mixtures thereof;
  • - at least one dye chosen from direct dyes, oxidation dyes and mixtures thereof, preferably at least one dye chosen from oxidation dyes and mixtures thereof, and b) an oxidizing composition comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents, preferably hydrogen peroxide.
  • the chemical oxidizing agent(s) are chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates or ferricyanides, peroxygenated salts, for instance persulfates, perborates, peracids and precursors thereof and percarbonates of alkali metals or alkaline-earth metals, and mixtures thereof.
  • the oxidizing agent is preferably chosen from hydrogen peroxide.
  • the oxidizing composition is preferably an aqueous composition.
  • it comprises more than 5% by weight of water, preferably more than 10% by weight of water and even more advantageously more than 20% by weight of water.
  • It may also comprise one or more organic solvents chosen from those listed previously; these solvents more particularly representing, when they are present, from 1% to 40% by weight and preferably from 5% to 30% by weight, relative to the weight of the oxidizing composition.
  • the oxidizing composition also preferably comprises one or more acidifying agents.
  • acidifying agents examples that may be mentioned include mineral or organic acids, for instance hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids, for instance acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid or lactic acid, and sulfonic acids.
  • mineral or organic acids for instance hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids, for instance acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid or lactic acid, and sulfonic acids.
  • the oxidizing composition may also comprise fatty substances such as those described previously, preferably chosen from fatty alcohols, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof, surfactants and polymers.
  • the pH of the oxidizing composition when it is aqueous, is less than 7.
  • the oxidizing composition comprises hydrogen peroxide as oxidizing agent, in aqueous solution, the concentration of which ranges, more particularly, from 0.1% to 50%, more particularly between 0.5% and 20% and even more preferentially between 1 % and 15% by weight, relative to the weight of the oxidizing composition.
  • At least one of the compositions is aqueous.
  • Kits Another subject of the invention is a multi-compartment device, preferably comprising two compartments, for dyeing keratin fibres, preferably the hair, comprising at least a first compartment containing the composition according to the invention and at least a second compartment containing an oxidizing composition as described above.
  • the compositions of the device according to the invention are packaged in separate compartments, optionally accompanied by suitable application means, which may be identical or different, such as fine brushes, coarse brushes or sponges.
  • the device mentioned above may also be equipped with a means for dispensing the desired mixture on the hair, for instance the devices described in patent FR 2 586913.
  • the present invention relates to the use of a composition as described above, for dyeing keratin fibres, preferably for dyeing keratin fibres and in particular the hair.
  • the dye compositions A1 to A2 and the oxidizing composition O were prepared from the ingredients of which the contents are indicated in the table below (% AM): Dye compositions [Table 1]
  • each of the dye compositions A1 and A2 is mixed with 1.5 times its weight of oxidizing agent O. Each of the mixtures is then applied to locks of 90% permanent-waved grey hair at a rate of 5 g of mixture/g of hair.
  • the colorimetric measurements were performed with the aid of a Konica Minolta CM- 3600A spectrocolorimeter (illuminant D65, angle 10°, specular component included) in the CIELab system.
  • Composition A1 according to the invention comprising xanthan gum leads to a higher value of C * , and thus to more chromatic colouring, in comparison with comparative composition A2 not comprising xanthan gum.

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Abstract

The invention relates to a composition comprising at least one fatty substance derived from shea, at least one alkyl(poly)glycoside, at least one polysaccharide chosen from anionic microbial gums and at least a dye.

Description

DESCRIPTION
TITLE: Composition comprising shea, an alkyl(poly)glycoside, a polysaccharide and a dye
The invention relates to a composition comprising at least one fatty substance derived from shea, at least one alkyl(poly)glycoside, at least one polysaccharide chosen from anionic microbial gums and at least a dye.
The invention also relates to a process for dyeing keratin fibres, notably the hair, using this composition.
Finally, the invention relates to the use of such a composition for dyeing keratin fibres, and notably the hair.
Many people have sought for a long time to modify the colour of their hair, and in particular to mask their grey hair. It is known practice to dye keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, to obtain “permanent” colourings with dyeing compositions containing oxidation dye precursors, notably oxidation bases, such as ortho- or para-phenylenediamines, ortho- or para-aminophenols, or heterocyclic compounds such as pyrazoles, pyrazolinones or pyrazolo-pyridines. These oxidation bases are colourless or weakly coloured compounds which, when combined with oxidizing products, may give rise to coloured compounds via a process of oxidative condensation.
It is also possible to vary the shades obtained with these oxidation bases by combining them with couplers or colour modifiers. The variety of molecules used as oxidation bases and couplers allows a wide range of colours to be obtained. However, the use of these dye compositions may have a certain number of drawbacks.
Specifically, after application to keratin fibres, the dyeing power obtained may not be entirely satisfactory, or may even be weak, and lead to a restricted range of colours. Moreover, they are not entirely satisfactory in terms of cosmetic properties of the hair.
The colourings may also be insufficiently persistent with respect to external agents such as light, shampoo or perspiration, and may also be too selective, i.e. the difference in colouring is too great along the same keratin fibre that is differently sensitized between its end and its root. Moreover, dyeing compositions often comprise starting materials for which the regulatory conditions are increasingly strict. It is thus necessary to develop compositions comprising alternative compounds.
Consumers are moreover in search of dyeing products that are more environmentally friendly, notably based on ingredients of natural origin, and which have good working qualities, are easy to use and give good dyeing properties.
Thus, there is a real need for a composition for dyeing keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, which is more environmentally friendly and which does not have the abovementioned drawbacks, i.e. which is capable of giving good colour build-up, intensity and chromaticity when it comprises one or more dyes, while at the same time having low selectivity and good persistence and which is capable of leading to good dyeing performance, , making it possible notably to obtain aesthetic blonds, even after a period of storage, while at the same time having good working qualities and leading to good cosmetic properties, notably in terms of homogeneity of the smooth feel.
These aims and others are achieved by the present invention, one subject of which is thus a composition comprising:
- at least one fatty substance derived from shea, preferably chosen from shea butter, shea olein and mixtures thereof;
- at least one alkyl(poly)glycoside;
- at least one polysaccharide chosen from anionic microbial gums;
- at least a dye, preferably chosen from oxidation dyes.
The composition according to the invention may notably lead to chromatic, powerful, intense and sparingly selective colourings, i.e. colourings that are uniform along the length of the fibre. It also allows various shades to be achieved in a very wide range of colours, notably lighter shades. It also enables good colour buildup.
This composition also gives particularly good coverage of depigmented keratin fibres such as grey hair.
Moreover, the composition according to the invention has good working qualities, notably a creamy texture allowing quick and easy mixing with an oxidizing composition, where appropriate, and easy and uniform spreading over the entire head of hair. The composition according to the invention has good stability over time, notably little or no change in its viscosity during storage. A subject of the invention is also a kit comprising, in a first compartment, a composition as defined previously and, in a second compartment, an oxidizing composition comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent.
According to the invention, the term “chemical oxidizing agent’ means an oxidizing agent other than atmospheric oxygen.
Other subjects, characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and the examples that follow.
In the text hereinbelow, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included in that range, notably in the expressions “between” and “ranging from ... to ...”.
Moreover, the expression “at least one” used in the present description is equivalent to the expression “one or more”.
Shea
The composition according to the invention comprises at least one fatty substance derived from shea, preferably chosen from shea butter, shea olein and mixtures thereof.
In a known manner, shea butter is extracted from the fruit (also called “kernels” or “nuts”) of the Butyrospemum parkii tree. Each fruit contains between 45% and 55% fatty substance, which is generally extracted and refined.
Shea butter contains fatty acid triglycerides.
The fatty acid distribution of shea butter is variable, notably depending on the geographical origin of the nuts, the total percentage of stearic and oleic acids being very largely predominant and generally greater than 80% by weight relative to the total weight of fatty acids.
Shea olein is obtained from shea butter.
Shea olein is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (1 .013x105 Pa).
In a known manner, shea olein results from the continuous or batchwise fractionation of shea butter using an organic solvent such as alkanes, ketones, alcohols or binary and ternary azeotropic mixtures thereof.
The fatty acid distribution of shea olein is variable, notably depending on the geographical origin of the nuts, the percentage of oleic acid being very largely predominant and generally greater than 50% by weight relative to the total weight of fatty acids. Advantageously, the total content of fatty acids obtained from shea ranges from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 2% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Advantageously, the total content of fatty acids chosen from shea butter, shea olein and mixtures thereof ranges from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably from 1 % to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 2% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
In a particular embodiment, the total content of shea butter ranges from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably from 1 % to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 2% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
In another particular embodiment, the total content of shea olein ranges from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 2% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Alkyl(poly)glycoside
The composition according to the invention also comprises one or more alkyl(poly)glycoside(s).
The term “alkyl(poly)glycoside” denotes an alkylpolyglycoside or an alkylmonoglycoside, also referred to in the present patent application as an alkylglycoside, which may be alkoxylated with one or more preferentially C2 to C4 alkylene oxide groups.
The alkyl(poly)glycoside(s) may be represented by the following general formula: R1O- (R20)t-(G)v in which:
- Ri represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical including 6 to 24 carbon atoms, notably 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical in which the linear or branched alkyl radical includes 6 to 24 carbon atoms, notably 8 to 18 carbon atoms,
- R2 represents an alkylene radical including 2 to 4 carbon atoms,
- G represents a sugar unit including 5 to 6 carbon atoms,
- 1 denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10, preferably from 0 to 4,
- v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4.
Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycosides are compounds having the formula described above in which:
- Ri denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl radical including from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, - F¾ represents an alkylene radical including 2 to 4 carbon atoms,
- 1 denotes a value ranging from 0 to 3, preferably equal to 0,
- G denotes glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose;
- the degree of polymerization, i.e. the value of v, possibly ranging from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4; the mean degree of polymerization more particularly being between 1 and 2.
The glucoside bonds between the sugar units are generally of 1-6 or 1-4 type, preferably of 1-4 type. Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside is an alkyl(poly)glucoside.
Among the commercial products, mention may be made of the products sold by the company Cognis under the names Plantaren® (600 CS/U, 1200 and 2000) or Plantacare® (818, 1200 and 2000); the products sold by the company SEPPIC under the names Oramix CG 110 and Oramix® NS 10; the products sold by the company BASF under the name Lutensol GD 70; the products sold by the company Chem Y under the name AGIO LK; the products sold by the company Evonik Goldschmidt under the trade names Tego Care CG 90 or Tego Care CG 90 MB, the products sold by the company SEPPIC under the trade names Montanov® 68, Montanov® 68 MB, Montanov® 14 or Montanov® 202 or the products sold by the company BASF under the name Emulgade® PL 68/50.
Preferentially, the composition comprises one or more alkyl(poly)glycosides chosen, alone or as mixtures, from (C6-C24 alkyl)(poly)glycosides, and more particularly (C8-C18 alkyl)(poly)glycosides, preferably chosen from coco glucoside, lauryl glucoside, caprylyl/capryl glucoside and cetearyl glucoside.
C8/C18 alkyl (poly)glucosides of 1-4 type, and notably the compounds with I NCI name coco glucoside and cetearyl glucoside, are most particularly preferred.
The total content of alkyl(poly)glycoside(s) preferably ranges from 0.01 % to 20% by weight, preferentially from 0.02% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.08% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1 % to 3% by weight, or even from 0.2% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Polysaccharide
The composition according to the invention comprises one or more polysaccharides chosen from anionic microbial gums.
In addition to the at least one anionic microbial gum, the composition may comprise other polysaccharides, preferably chosen from anionic polysaccharides. The term “polysaccharides” means polymers which contain at least 11 monosaccharide units. Preferentially, the polysaccharides of the invention include between 20 and 100 000 monosaccharide units.
The anionic polysaccharides according to the invention comprise one or more anionic or anionizable groups, and do not comprise any cationic or cationizable groups.
The anionic polysaccharides that are useful according to the invention may be chosen from those derived from the following sugars: glucose; galactose; arabinose; rhamnose; mannose; xylose; fucose; anhydrogalactose; galacturonic acid; glucuronic acid; mannuronic acid; galactose sulfate; anhydrogalactose sulfate.
The anionic polysaccharides of the invention may be natural or synthetic.
According to a particular embodiment, the anionic polysaccharides that are useful in the composition according to the invention are chosen from native gums such as:
• tree or shrub exudates, for instance: acacia gum (branched polymer of galactose, arabinose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); ghatti gum (polymer derived from arabinose, galactose, mannose, xylose and glucuronic acid); karaya gum (polymer derived from galacturonic acid, galactose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); gum tragacanth (polymer of galacturonic acid, galactose, fucose, xylose and arabinose);
• gums derived from algae, such as: alginates (polymers of mannuronic acid and glucuronic acid); carrageenans and furcellerans (polymers of galactose sulfate and anhydrogalactose sulfate);
• microbial gums such as: xanthan gums (polymer of glucose, mannose acetate, mannose/pyruvic acid and glucuronic acid); gellan gums (polymer of partially acylated glucose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid).
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “microbial gums" means substances synthesized by fermentation of sugars by microorganisms.
According to a preferred embodiment, the anionic polysaccharides that are useful in the composition according to the invention are chosen from xanthan gums.
The total content of polysaccharides preferably ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.05% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.1 % to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The total content of anionic polysaccharides as defined previously preferably ranges from 0.01 % to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.05% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.1 % to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The total content of the anionic microbial gums as defined previously ranges, when they are present, preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.1 % to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one alkaline agent.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one alkaline agent and at least one dye, the dye preferably being chosen from oxidation dyes.
Alkaline agent
The alkaline agents that are useful according to the invention may be mineral, organic or hybrid alkaline agents.
For the purposes of the present invention, the terms “alkaline agent’ and “basifying agent’ are used interchangeably.
The mineral basifying agent(s) are preferably chosen from aqueous ammonia, alkali metal carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium (hydrogen)carbonate and potassium (hydrogen)carbonate, alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal phosphates such as sodium phosphates or potassium phosphates, sodium or potassium hydroxides, alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal silicates or metasilicates such as sodium metasilicate, and mixtures thereof.
The organic basifying agent(s) are preferably chosen from alkanolamines, amino acids, organic amines other than alkanolamines, oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, 1 ,3-diaminopropane, spermine, spermidine and mixtures thereof.
The term “alkanolamine” means an organic amine comprising a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, and one or more linear or branched Ci-Cs alkyl groups bearing one or more hydroxyl radicals.
Organic amines chosen from alkanolamines such as monoalkanolamines, dialkanolamines or trialkanolamines comprising one to three identical or different C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl radicals are in particular suitable for performing the invention.
In particular, the alkanolamine(s) are chosen from monoethanolamine (MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N- dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1 -propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2- methyl-1 ,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1 ,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1 ,2-propanediol, tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane and mixtures thereof.
Advantageously, the amino acids are basic amino acids comprising an additional amine function. Such basic amino acids are preferably chosen from histidine, lysine, arginine, ornithine and citrulline.
The organic amine may also be chosen from organic amines of heterocyclic type. Besides histidine that has already been mentioned in the amino acids, mention may in particular be made of pyridine, piperidine, imidazole, triazole, tetrazole and benzimidazole. The organic amine may also be chosen from amino acid dipeptides. As amino acid dipeptides that may be used in the present invention, mention may notably be made of carnosine, anserine and balenine. The organic amine may also be chosen from compounds including a guanidine function. As amines of this type other than arginine that may be used in the present invention, mention may notably be made of creatine, creatinine, 1 ,1-dimethylguanidine, 1 ,1- diethylguanidine, glycocyamine, metformin, agmatine, n-amidoalanine, 3- guanidinopropionic acid, 4-guanidinobutyric acid and 2- ([amino(imino)methyl]amino)ethane-1 -sulfonic acid.
Hybrid compounds that may be used in particular include guanidine carbonate or monoethanolamine hydrochloride.
The alkaline agent(s) that is/are useful according to the invention is/are preferably chosen from alkanolamines such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine; aqueous ammonia, carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium (hydrogen) carbonate and potassium (hydrogen) carbonate, alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal silicates or metasilicates such as sodium metasilicate and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from alkanolamines and aqueous ammonia, better still from alkanolamines, even better still monoethanolamine.
According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of aqueous ammonia.
The total content of the alkaline agent(s), when they are present, preferably ranges from 0.1 % to 40% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 30% by weight, better still from 2% to 25% by weight, and even better still from 4% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
According to a particular embodiment, the total content of alkanolamine, preferably of monoethanolamine, preferably ranges from 0.1 % to 40% by weight, more preferentially from 1 % to 30% by weight, better still from 2% to 25% by weight, even better still from 4% to 20% by weight, or even from 8% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
According to one embodiment, the pH of the composition according to the invention is between 8 and 13; preferably between 9.0 and 12.
The pH of the composition may be adjusted to the desired value by means of acidic or alkaline agent(s) commonly used in the dyeing of keratin fibres, such as those described hereinabove, or alternatively using buffer systems known to those skilled in the art.
Dyes
The dyes are chosen from direct dyes, oxidation dyes and mixtures thereof.
These direct dyes may be synthetic or natural.
The term “direct dye ” means coloured species. These are dyes that will spread superficially on the fibre.
These synthetic direct dyes are, for example, chosen from the dyes conventionally used for direct dyeing, and among which mention may be made of all the aromatic and/or non aromatic dyes that are commonly used, such as nitrobenzene, azo, hydrazono, nitro(hetero)aryl, tri(hetero)arylmethane, (poly)methine, carbonyl, azine, porphyrin, metalloporphyrin, quinone and in particular anthraquinone, indoamine and phthalocyanine direct dyes, and mixtures thereof.
Among the nitrobenzene direct dyes, mention may be made of: 1 ,4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, 1 -amino-2-nitro-4- -hydroxyethylaminobenzene, 1 -amino-2-nitro-4-bis( - hydroxyethyl)aminobenzene, 1 ,4-bis( -hydroxyethylamino)-2-nitrobenzene, 1-b- hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-bis( -hydroxyethylamino)benzene, 1^-hydroxyethylamino-2- nitro-4-aminobenzene, 1^-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-(ethyl) - hydroxyethyl)aminobenzene, 1 -amino-3-methyl-4^-hydroxyethylamino-6-nitrobenzene, 1 - amino-2-nitro-4- -hydroxyethylamino-5-chlorobenzene, 1 ,2-diamino-4-nitrobenzene, 1- amino-2- -hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene, 1 ,2-bis -hydroxyethylamino)-4- nitrobenzene, 1 -amino-2-tris(hydroxymethyl)methylamino-5-nitrobenzene, 1 -hydroxy-2- amino-5-nitrobenzene, 1 -hydroxy-2-amino-4-nitrobenzene, 1 -hydroxy-3-nitro-4- aminobenzene, 1 -hydroxy-2-amino-4, 6-dinitrobenzene, 1 ^-hydroxyethyloxy-2^- hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene, 1 -methoxy-2^-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene, 1 - P-hydroxyethyloxy-3-methylamino-4-nitrobenzene, 1 - ,y-dihydroxypropyloxy-3- methylamino-4-nitrobenzene, 1^-hydroxyethylamino-4^,y-dihydroxypropyloxy-2- nitrobenzene, 1 - ,Y-dihydroxypropylamino-4-trifluoromethyl-2-nitrobenzene, 1 -b- hydroxyethylamino-4-trifluoromethyl-2-nitrobenzene, 1- -hydroxyethylamino-3-methyl-2- nitrobenzene, 1 - -aminoethylamino-5-methoxy-2-nitrobenzene, 1 -hydroxy-2-chloro-6- ethylamino-4-nitrobenzene, 1 -hydroxy-2-chloro-6-amino-4-nitrobenzene, 1 -hydroxy-6- bis( -hydroxyethyl)amino-3-nitrobenzene, 1 - -hydroxyethylamino-2-nitrobenzene, 1 - hydroxy-4-p-hydroxyethylamino-3-nitrobenzene.
Among the azo direct dyes, mention may be made of: Basic Red 51 , Basic Orange 31 , Disperse Red 17, Acid Yellow 9, Acid Black 1 , Basic Red 22, Basic Red 76, Basic Yellow 57, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Orange 7, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 35, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Orange 24, Disperse Black 9, Basic Brown 16, Basic Brown 17.
Among the hydrazono direct dyes, mention may be made of: Basic Yellow 87.
Among the nitroaryl direct dyes, mention may be made of: HC Blue 2, HC Yellow 2, HC Red 3,4-hydroxypropylamino-3-nitrophenol, A/,A/’-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)-2-nitrophenylenediamine.
Among the triarylmethane direct dyes, mention may be made of: Basic Violet 1 , Basic Violet 2, Basic Violet 3, Basic Violet 4, Basic Violet 14, Basic Blue 1 , Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic Green 1 , Basic Blue 77 (also known as HC Blue 15), Acid Blue 1 ; Acid Blue 3; Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 9; Acid Violet 49; Acid Green 3; Acid Green 5; Acid Green 50.
Among the quinone direct dyes, mention may be made of: Disperse Red 15, Solvent Violet 13, Acid Violet 43, Disperse Violet 1 , Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Blue 1 , Disperse Violet 8, Disperse Blue 3, Disperse Red 11 , Acid Blue 62, Disperse Blue 7, Basic Blue 22, Disperse Violet 15, Basic Blue 99, and also the following compounds: 1-N- methylmorpholiniumpropylamino-4-hydroxyanthraquinone, 1-aminopropylamino-4- methylaminoanthraquinone, 1-aminopropylaminoanthraquinone, 5-p-hydroxyethyl-1 ,4- diaminoanthraquinone, 2-aminoethylaminoanthraquinone, 1 ,4-bis( ,y- dihydroxypropylamino)anthraquinone, Acid Blue 25, Acid Blue 43, Acid Blue 78, Acid Blue 129, Acid Blue 138, Acid Blue 140, Acid Blue 251 , Acid Green 25, Acid Green 41 , Acid Violet 42, Mordant Red 3, Acid Black 48, HC Blue 16.
Among the azine direct dyes, mention may be made of: Basic Blue 17, Basic Red 2.
Among the indoamine direct dyes, mention may be made of: 2-p-hydroxyethlyamino-5- [bis(P-4’-hydroxyethyl)amino]anilino-1 ,4-benzoquinone, 2-p-hydroxyethylamino-5-(2’- methoxy-4’-amino)anilino-1 ,4-benzoquinone, 3-N-(2’-chloro-4’- hydroxy)phenylacetylamino-6-methoxy-1 ,4-benzoquinoneimine, 3-N-(3’-chloro-4’- methylamino)phenylureido-6-methyl-1 ,4-benzoquinoneimine, 3-[4’-N-
(ethylcarbamylmethyl)amino]phenylureido-6-methyl-1 ,4-benzoquinoneimine.
The natural direct dyes are chosen, for example, from lawsone, juglone, indigo, leuco indigo, indirubin, isatin, hennotannic acid, alizarin, carthamine, morin, purpurin, carminic acid, kermesic acid, laccaic acid, purpurogallin, protocatechaldehyde, curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidin, orceins, carotenoids, betanin, chlorophylls, chlorophyllines, monascus, polyphenols or ortho-diphenols.
Among the ortho-diphenols that are useful according to the invention, mention may be made of: catechin, quercetin, brazilin, haematein, haematoxylin, chlorogenic acid, caffeic acid, gallic acid, L-DOPA, cyanidin, (-)-epicatechin, (-)-epigallocatechin, (-)-epigallocatechin 3- gallate (EGCG), isoquercetin, pomiferin, esculetin, 6,7-dihydroxy-3-(3-hydroxy-2,4- dimethoxyphenyl)coumarin, santalin A and B, mangiferin, butein, maritimetin, sulfuretin, robtein, betanidin, pericampylinone A, theaflavin, proanthocyanidin A2, proanthocyanidin B2, proanthocyanidin C1 , procyanidins DP 4-8, tannic acid, purpurogallin, 5,6-dihydroxy-2- methyl-1 ,4-naphthoquinone, alizarin, wedelolactone and natural extracts containing same.
When the composition comprises at least one direct dye, they are preferably present in a total content ranging from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5%, and even better still from 0.1 % to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more dyes chosen from oxidation dyes.
The oxidation dyes may be chosen from one or more oxidation bases, optionally in combination with one or more couplers.
Preferably, the oxidation dye(s) comprise one or more oxidation bases.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more oxidation bases.
The oxidation bases may be present in the form of salts, solvates and/or solvates of salts.
The addition salts of the oxidation bases present in the composition according to the invention are chosen notably from the addition salts with an acid, such as the hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, methanesulfonates, phosphates and acetates, and the addition salts with a base such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, aqueous ammonia, amines or alkanolamines.
Moreover, the solvates of the oxidation bases more particularly represent the hydrates of said oxidation bases and/or the combination of said oxidation bases with a linear or branched Ci to C4 alcohol such as methanol, ethanol, isopropanol or n-propanol. Preferably, the solvates are hydrates.
By way of example, the oxidation bases are chosen from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases and the corresponding addition salts, solvates and/or solvates of the salts.
Among the para-phenylenediamines that may be mentioned are, for example, para- phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl- para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para- phenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-para- phenylenediamine, N , N-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N ,N-dipropyl-para- phenylenediamine, 4-amino-N,N-diethyl-3-methylaniline, N,N-bis -hydroxyethyl)-para- phenylenediamine, 4-N,N-bis -hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylaniline, 4-N,N-bis - hydroxyethyl)amino-2-chloroaniline, 2^-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2- methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-fluoro-para-phenylenediamine, 2-isopropyl- para-phenylenediamine, N- -hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-(y- hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-hydroxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N- dimethyl-3-methyl-para-phenylenediamine, N-ethyl-N- -hydroxyethyl)-para- phenylenediamine, N-( ,y-dihydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-(4’-aminophenyl)- para-phenylenediamine, N-phenyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2^-hydroxyethyloxy-para- phenylenediamine, 2^-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, N-( -methoxyethyl)- para-phenylenediamine, 4-aminophenylpyrrolidine, 2-thienyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-b- hydroxyethylamino-5-aminotoluene and 3-hydroxy-1-(4’-aminophenyl)pyrrolidine, and the addition salts, solvates and/or solvates of salts thereof.
Among the para-phenylenediamines mentioned above, particular preference is given to para-phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-b- hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-(y-hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2- methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-b-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6- dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para- phenylenediamine, N,N-bis(b-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-chloro-para- phenylenediamine and 2- -acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, and the corresponding addition salts, solvates and/or solvates of salts thereof.
Among the bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines that may be mentioned, for example, are N,N’- bis( -hydroxyethyl)-N,N’-bis(4’-aminophenyl)-1 ,3-diaminopropanol, N,N’-bis( - hydroxyethyl)-N,N’-bis(4’-aminophenyl)ethylenediamine, N,N’-bis(4- aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N’-bis( -hydroxyethyl)-N,N’-bis(4- aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N’-bis(4- methylaminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N’-bis(ethyl)-N,N’-bis(4’-amino-3’- methylphenyl)ethylenediamine and 1 ,8-bis(2,5-diaminophenoxy)-3,6-dioxaoctane, and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and/or the solvates of the salts.
Among the para-aminophenols that are mentioned are, for example, para-aminophenol, 4- amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 4-amino-3-chlorophenol, 4-amino-3- hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino- 2-methoxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2-( - hydroxyethylaminomethyl)phenol and 4-amino-2-fluorophenol, and the addition salts, the solvates and/or the solvates of the salts.
Among the ortho-aminophenols that may be mentioned, for example, are 2-aminophenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol, 2-amino-6-methylphenol and 5-acetamido-2-aminophenol, and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and the solvates of the salts.
Among the heterocyclic bases that may be mentioned, for example, are pyridine, pyrimidine and pyrazole derivatives.
Among the pyridine derivatives that may be mentioned are the compounds described, for example, in patents GB 1 026 978 and GB 1 153 196, for example 2,5-diaminopyridine, 2- (4-methoxyphenyl)amino-3-aminopyridine and 3,4-diaminopyridine, and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and the solvates of the salts.
Other pyridine oxidation bases that are useful in the present invention are the 3- aminopyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyridine oxidation bases or the corresponding addition salts described, for example, in patent application FR 2 801 308. Examples that may be mentioned include pyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-acetylaminopyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyrid-3- ylamine, 2-(morpholin-4-yl)pyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 3-aminopyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyridine- 2-carboxylic acid, 2-methoxypyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, (3-aminopyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyrid- 7-yl)methanol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)ethanol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[1 ,5- a]pyrid-7-yl)ethanol, (3-aminopyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyrid-2-yl)methanol, 3,6-diaminopyrazolo[1 ,5- a]pyridine, 3,4-diaminopyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyridine, pyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyridine-3, 7-diamine, 7- (morpholin-4-yl)pyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, pyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyridine-3, 5-diamine, 5- (morpholin-4-yl)pyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)(2- hydroxyethyl)amino]ethanol, 2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)(2- hydroxyethyl)amino]ethanol, 3-aminopyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyridin-5-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[1 ,5- a]pyridin-4-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyridin-6-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyridin-7-ol, 2-b- hydroxyethoxy-3-aminopyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyridine and 2-(4-dimethylpiperazinium-1-yl)-3- aminopyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyridine, and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and the solvates of the salts.
More particularly, the oxidation bases that are useful in the present invention are chosen from 3-aminopyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyridines and preferably substituted on carbon atom 2 with: a) a (di)(C1-C6)(alkyl)amino group, said alkyl group possibly being substituted with at least one hydroxyl, amino or imidazolium group; b) an optionally cationic 5- to 7-membered heterocycloalkyl group containing from 1 to 3 heteroatoms, optionally substituted with one or more (C1-C6)alkyl groups, such as a di(C1- C4)alkylpiperazinium group; or c) a (C1-C6)alkoxy group optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, such as a b-hydroxyalkoxy group, and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and the solvates of the salts.
Among the pyrimidine derivatives that may be mentioned are the compounds described, for example, in patents DE 2359399; JP 88-169571 ; JP 05-63124; EP 0770375 or patent application WO 96/15765, such as 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6- triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6- diaminopyrimidine, 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine and the addition salts thereof, the solvates and the solvates of the salts thereof, and the tautomeric forms thereof, when a tautomeric equilibrium exists.
Among the pyrazole derivatives that may be mentioned are the compounds described in patents DE 3843892 and DE 4133957 and patent applications WO 94/08969, WO 94/08970, FR-A-2733749 and DE 19543988, for instance 4,5-diamino-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1 - -hydroxyethyl)pyrazole, 3,4-diaminopyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1 -(4 - chlorobenzyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1 ,3-dimethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1- phenylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-methyl-3-phenylpyrazole, 4-amino-1 ,3-dimethyl-5- hydrazinopyrazole, 1 -benzyl-4, 5-diamino-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-tert-butyl-1 - methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1 -tert-butyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1 -(b-hydroxyethyl)- 3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1 -ethyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1 -ethyl-3-(4’- methoxyphenyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1 -ethyl-3-hydroxymethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3- hydroxymethyl-1 -methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-1 -isopropylpyrazole, 4,5- diamino-3-methyl-1 -isopropylpyrazole, 4-amino-5-(2’-aminoethyl)amino-1 ,3- dimethylpyrazole, 3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, 1 -methyl-3, 4, 5-triaminopyrazole, 3,5-diamino-1- methyl-4-methylaminopyrazole and 3,5-diamino-4- -hydroxyethyl)amino-1 - methylpyrazole, and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and/or solvates of the salts. Use may also be made of 4,5-diamino-1-( -methoxyethyl)pyrazole.
A 4,5-diaminopyrazole will preferably be used and even more preferentially 4,5-diamino-1- ( -hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and/or a corresponding salt, a solvate and/or a solvate of a salt.
The pyrazole derivatives that may also be mentioned comprise diamino-N,N- dihydropyrazolopyrazolones and in particular those described in patent application FR-A-2 886 136, such as the following compounds and the corresponding addition salts: 2,3- diamino-6,7-dihydro-1 H,5H-pyrazolo[1 ,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-ethylamino-6,7- dihydro-1 H,5H-pyrazolo[1 ,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-isopropylamino-6,7-dihydro- 1 H ,5H-pyrazolo[1 ,2-a]pyrazol-1 -one, 2-amino-3-(pyrrolidin-1 -yl)-6,7-dihydro-1 H ,5H- pyrazolo[1 ,2-a]pyrazol-1 -one, 4,5-diamino-1 ,2-dimethyl-1 ,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4,5- diamino-1 ,2-diethyl-1 ,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino-1 ,2-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)-1 ,2- dihydropyrazol-3-one, 2-amino-3-(2-hydroxyethyl)amino-6,7-dihydro-1 H ,5H-pyrazolo[1 ,2- a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-dimethylamino-6,7-dihydro-1 H,5H-pyrazolo[1 ,2-a]pyrazol-1- one, 2,3-diamino-5,6,7,8-tetrahydro-1 H ,6H-pyridazino[1 ,2-a]pyrazol-1 -one, 4-amino-1 ,2- diethyl-5-(pyrrolidin-1 -yl)-1 ,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4-amino-5-(3-dimethylaminopyrrolidin- 1 -yl)-1 ,2-diethyl-1 ,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one and 2,3-diamino-6-hydroxy-6,7-dihydro-1 H ,5H- pyrazolo[1 ,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, the salts thereof, the solvates thereof and the solvates of the salts thereof.
Use will preferably be made of 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1 H,5H-pyrazolo[1 ,2-a]pyrazol-1- one and/or a corresponding salt, solvate and/or solvate of a salt.
Use will preferably be made, as heterocyclic bases, of 4,5-diamino-1-( - hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and/or 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1 H,5H-pyrazolo[1 ,2-a]pyrazol-1-one and/or 2^-hydroxyethoxy-3-aminopyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyridine and/or a corresponding salt, solvate and/or solvate of a salt.
Preferably, the oxidation base(s) are chosen from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases, and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates thereof and the solvates of the salts thereof, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from 2-methoxymethyl-para- phenylenediamine, 2- -hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-y-hydroxypropyl-para- phenylenediamine, and the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof and/or the solvates of the salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
When the composition comprises at least one oxidation base, the oxidation base(s) are preferably present in a total content ranging from 0.001 % to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5%, even better still from 0.1 % to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
According to a preferred embodiment, when the composition comprises at least one oxidation base chosen from 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2- -hydroxyethyl- para-phenylenediamine, 2-y-hydroxypropyl-para-phenylenediamine, addition salts thereof, solvates thereof and/or solvates of the salts thereof and mixtures thereof, said base(s) are present in a total content ranging from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5%, even better still from 0.1 % to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of oxidation bases chosen from para-phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, addition salts thereof, solvates thereof and solvates of the salts thereof.
The oxidation dye(s) may also be chosen from one or more couplers, which may be chosen from the couplers conventionally used for the dyeing of keratin fibres.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more couplers.
Among the couplers that are useful according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalene- based coupling agents and heterocyclic coupling agents, and also the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and solvates of the salts thereof.
Mention may be made, for example, of 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, hydroxyethyl-3-4- methylenedioxyaniline, 2-amino-5-ethylphenol, 1 ,3-dihydroxybenzene, 1 ,3-dihydroxy-2- methylbenzene, 4-chloro-1 ,3-dihydroxybenzene, 2,4-diamino-1-( - hydroxyethyloxy)benzene, 2-amino-4-( -hydroxyethylamino)-1-methoxybenzene, 1 ,3- diaminobenzene, 1 ,3-bis(2,4-diaminophenoxy)propane, 3-ureidoaniline, 3-ureido-1- dimethylaminobenzene, sesamol, a-naphthol, 2-methyl-1-naphthol, 6-hydroxyindole, 4- hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxy-N-methylindole, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 3,5-diamino-2,6- dimethoxypyridine, 2,6-bis( -hydroxyethylamino)toluene, 6-hydroxyindoline, 2,6-dihydroxy- 4-methylpyridine, 1-H-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 2,6- dimethylpyrazolo[1 ,5-b][1 ,2,4]triazole, 2,6-dimethyl[3,2-c][1 ,2,4]triazole and 6- methylpyrazolo[1 ,5-a]benzimidazole, 2-methyl-5-aminophenol, 5-N-( -hydroxyethyl)amino- 2-methylphenol, 3-aminophenol and 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and the solvates of the salts thereof, and the corresponding mixtures.
Preferably, the coupler(s) are chosen from: 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof and/or the solvates of the salts thereof, hydroxyethyl-3,4- methylenedioxyaniline, the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof and/or the solvates of the salts thereof, 2-amino-5-ethylphenol, the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof and/or the solvates of the salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
In general, the addition salts of the couplers that may be used in the context of the invention are chosen in particular from addition salts with an acid, such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates, and the addition salts with a base such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, aqueous ammonia, amines or alkanolamines.
Moreover, the solvates more particularly represent the hydrates of these couplers and/or the combination of these couplers with a linear or branched C1 to C4 alcohol such as methanol, ethanol, isopropanol or n-propanol. Preferably, the solvates are hydrates.
In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of oxidation couplers chosen from resorcinol, 2-methylresorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof and the solvates of the salts thereof.
When the composition comprises one or more oxidation couplers, the total content of the coupler(s) present in the composition according to the invention ranges from 0.001 % to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 15% by weight, better still from 0.01 % to 10% by weight, even better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
When they are present, the total content of the couplers chosen from 6- hydroxybenzomorpholine, hydroxyethyl-3-4-methylenedioxyaniline, 2-amino-5-ethylphenol and also the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof and/or the solvates of the salts thereof preferably ranges from 0.001 % to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 15% by weight, better still from 0.01 % to 10% by weight, even better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and even better still from 0.1 % to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
When they are present, the total content of the couplers chosen from 6- hydroxybenzomorpholine, the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof and/or the solvates of the salts thereof preferably ranges from 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 15% by weight, better still 0.01% to 10% by weight, even better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and even better still from 0.1 % to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
When they are present, the total content of the couplers chosen from hydroxyethyl-3,4- methylenedioxyaniline, the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof and/or the solvates of the salts thereof preferably ranges from 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 15% by weight, better still from 0.01% to 10% by weight, even better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and even better still from 0.1 % to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
When they are present, the total content of the couplers chosen from 2-amino-5- ethylphenol, the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof and/or the solvates of the salts thereof preferably ranges from 0.001 % to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 15% by weight, better still from 0.01% to 10% by weight, even better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and even better still from 0.1 % to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, the total content of the dyes preferably ranges from 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 15% by weight, better still from 0.01% to 10% by weight, even better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and even better still from 0.1 % to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
When they are present, the total content of the oxidation dyes preferably ranges from 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 15% by weight, better still from 0.01% to 10% by weight, even better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Sequestrants
The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one sequestrant (or chelating agent). Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more sequestrants.
The definition of a “sequestrant” (or “chelating agent”) is well known to those skilled in the art and refers to a compound or a mixture of compounds that are capable of forming a chelate with a metal ion. A chelate is an inorganic complex in which a compound (the sequestrant or chelating agent) is coordinated to a metal ion, i.e. it forms one or more bonds with the metal ion (formation of a ring including the metal ion).
A sequestrant (or chelating agent) generally comprises at least two electron-donating atoms which enable the formation of bonds with the metal ion.
Within the context of the present invention, the sequestrant(s) may be chosen from carboxylic acids, preferably aminocarboxylic acids, phosphonic acids, preferably aminophosphonic acids, polyphosphoric acids, preferably linear polyphosphoric acids, salts thereof, and derivatives thereof.
The salts are in particular alkali metal, alkaline-earth metal, ammonium and substituted ammonium salts.
The following compounds may be mentioned as examples of chelating agents based on carboxylic acids: diethylenetriamine pentaacetic acid (DTPA), ethylenediamine disuccinic acid (EDDS) and trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate such as Octaquest E30 from Octel, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and salts thereof such as disodium EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA, ethylenediamine-N,N’-diglutaric acid (EDDG), glycinamide-N,N’- disuccinic acid (GADS), 2-hydroxypropylenediamine-N,N ’-disuccinic acid (HPDDS), ethylenediamine-N,N’-bis(ortho-hydroxyphenylacetic acid) (EDDHA), N,N’-bis(2- hydroxybenzyl)ethylenediamine-N,N’-diacetic acid (HBED), nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA), methylglycinediacetic acid (MGDA), N-2-hydroxyethyl-N,N-diacetic acid and glyceryliminodiacetic acid (as described in EP-A-317542 and EP-A-399 133), iminodiacetic acid-N-2-hydroxypropylsulfonic acid and aspartic acid-N-carboxymethyl-N-2- hydroxypropyl-3-sulfonic acid (as described in EP-A-516 102), beta-alanine-N,N’-diacetic acid, aspartic acid-N,N’-diacetic acid, and aspartic acid-N-monoacetic acid (described in EP-A-509382), chelating agents based on iminodisuccinic acid (IDSA) (as described in EP-A-509382), ethanoldiglycine acid, phophonobutane tricarboxylic acid such as the compound sold by Bayer under the reference Bayhibit AM, N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid and salts thereof such as tetrasodium glutamate diacetate (GLDA) such as Dissolvine GL38 or 45S from Akzo Nobel. The following compounds may be mentioned as examples of chelating agents based on mono- or polyphosphonic acid: diethylenetriaminepenta(methylene phosphonic acid) (DTPMP), ethane-1 -hydroxy-1, 1,2-triphosphonic acid (E1HTP), ethane-2-hydroxy-1 ,1 ,2- triphosphonic acid (E2HTP), ethane-1 -hydroxy-1, 1-triphosphonic acid (EH DP), ethane- 1 ,1 ,2-triphosphonic acid (ETP), ethylenediaminetetramethylene phosphonic acid (EDTMP), hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonic acid (HEDP, or etidronic acid), and salts such as disodium etidronate, tetrasodium etidronate.
The following compounds may be mentioned as examples of chelating agents based on polyphosphoric acid: sodium tripolyphosphate (STP), tetrasodium diphosphate, hexametaphosphoric acid, sodium metaphosphate, phytic acid.
According to one embodiment, the sequestrant(s) that are useful according to the invention are phosphorus-based sequestrants, i.e. sequestrants which comprise one or more phosphorus atoms, preferably at least two phosphorus atoms.
The phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) used in the composition according to the invention are preferably chosen from:
- inorganic phosphorus-based derivatives preferably chosen from alkali metal or alkaline- earth metal, preferably alkali metal, phosphates and pyrophosphates, such as sodium pyrophosphate, potassium pyrophosphate, sodium pyrophosphate decahydrate; and alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, preferably alkali metal, polyphosphates, such as sodium hexametaphosphate, sodium polyphosphate, sodium tripolyphosphate, sodium trimetaphosphate; which are optionally hydrated, and mixtures thereof;
- organic phosphorus-based derivatives, such as organic (poly)phosphates and (poly)phosphonates, such as etidronic acid and/or alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts thereof, for instance tetrasodium etidronate, disodium etidronate, and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) are chosen from linear or cyclic compounds comprising at least two phosphorus atoms bonded together covalently via at least one linker L comprising at least one oxygen atom and/or at least one carbon atom.
The phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) may be chosen from inorganic phosphorus-based derivatives, preferably comprising at least two phosphorus atoms. More preferentially, the phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) are chosen from alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal pyrophosphates, better still from alkali metal pyrophosphates, in particular sodium pyrophosphate (also known as tetrasodium pyrophosphate). The phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) may be chosen from organic phosphorus-based derivatives, preferably comprising at least two phosphorus atoms. More preferentially, the phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) are chosen from etidronic acid (also known as 1- hydroxyethane-1 ,1-diphosphonic acid) and/or alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, preferably alkali metal, salts thereof, for instance tetrasodium etidronate and disodium etidronate.
Thus, preferably, the phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) are chosen from alkali metal pyrophosphates, etidronic acid and/or alkali metal salts thereof, and a mixture of these compounds.
Particularly preferably, the phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) are chosen from tetrasodium etidronate, disodium etidronate, etidronic acid, tetrasodium pyrophosphate, and a mixture of these compounds.
According to the present invention, the sequestrants are preferably chosen from diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DTPA) and salts thereof, diethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and salts thereof, ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS) and salts thereof, etidronic acid and salts thereof, N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid and salts thereof (GLDA), and mixtures thereof.
More preferentially, the sequestrant(s) are chosen from N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid and salts thereof (GLDA), and mixtures thereof.
Among the salts of these compounds, the alkali metal salts and notably the sodium or potassium salts are preferred.
When the composition comprises one or more sequestrants, the total content of the sequestrant(s) preferably ranges from 0.001 % to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.01 % to 8% by weight, even better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Fatty substances other than fatty acids and other than fatty substances derived from shea
The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more fatty substances other than fatty acids and other than fatty substances derived from shea.
By other than fatty acids is meant other than free fatty acids.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more fatty substances other than fatty acids and other than fatty substances derived from shea. The term “fatty substance” means an organic compound that is insoluble in water at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (1 .013x105 Pa) (solubility of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferentially less than 0.1% by weight). They bear in their structure at least one hydrocarbon-based chain including at least 6 carbon atoms and/or a sequence of at least two siloxane groups. In addition, the fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for instance chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), liquid petroleum jelly or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.
The fatty substances that may be used in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated.
Preferably, the fatty substances that may be used according to the invention are non silicone fatty substances.
The term “non-silicone fatty substance” refers to a fatty substance not containing any Si-0 bonds and the term “silicone fatty substance” refers to a fatty substance containing at least one Si-0 bond.
The fatty substances that are useful according to the invention may be liquid fatty substances (or oils) and/or solid fatty substances. The term “liquid fatty substance” means a fatty substance with a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1 .013x105 Pa) and the term “solid fatty substance” means a fatty substance with a melting point of greater than 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013x105 Pa).
For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed on thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in the standard ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA Instruments. In the present patent application, all the melting points are determined at atmospheric pressure (1.013x10s Pa).
More particularly, the liquid fatty substance(s) may be chosen from C6 to C16 liquid hydrocarbons, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin, oils of triglyceride type of plant or synthetic origin other than shea oil, fluoro oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of fatty acid and/or of fatty alcohol other than triglycerides, and mixtures thereof. It is recalled that the fatty alcohols and esters more particularly contain at least one saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based group, comprising 6 to 40 and better still from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally substituted, in particular, with one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
As regards the C6 to C16 liquid hydrocarbons, these may be linear, branched, or optionally cyclic, and are preferably chosen from alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane or isoparaffins, such as isohexadecane or isodecane, and mixtures thereof.
The liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms may be linear or branched, and of mineral or synthetic origin, and are preferably chosen from liquid paraffins or liquid petroleum jelly (or mineral oil), polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®, and mixtures thereof.
A hydrocarbon-based oil of animal origin that may be mentioned is perhydrosqualene.
The triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from liquid fatty acid triglycerides including from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, maize oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company Stearinerie Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, and mixtures thereof.
As regards the fluoro oils, they may be chosen from perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1 ,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names Flutec® PC1 and Flutec® PC3 by the company BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1 ,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names PF 5050® and PF 5060® by the company 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name Foralkyl® by the company Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives such as 4- trifluoromethylperfluoromorpholine sold under the name PF 5052® by the company 3M.
The liquid fatty alcohols that are suitable for use in the invention are more particularly chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alcohols, preferably unsaturated or branched alcohols, comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated. Examples that may be mentioned include octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2- undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, ricinoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol and linoleyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, oleyl alcohol will be used.
As regards the liquid esters of fatty acids and/or of fatty alcohols, other than the triglycerides mentioned previously, mention may be made notably of esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear C1 to C26 or branched C3 to C26 aliphatic mono- or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear C1 to C26 or branched C3 to C26 aliphatic mono- or polyalcohols, the total carbon number of the esters being greater than or equal to 6 and more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.
Preferably, for the esters of monoalcohols, at least one from among the alcohol and the acid is branched.
Among the monoesters, mention may be made of dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; octyl isononanoate; 2- ethylhexyl isononate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate; alkyl myristates such as isopropyl 2-octyldodecyl myristate, isobutyl stearate; 2-hexyldecyl laurate, and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, among the monoesters of monoacids and of monoalcohols, use will be made of ethyl palmitate and isopropyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.
Esters of C4 to C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C1 to C22 alcohols and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C2 to C26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
Mention may notably be made of: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and polyethylene glycol distearates, and mixtures thereof.
The composition may also comprise, as fatty ester, sugar esters and diesters of C6 to C30 and preferably C12 to C22 fatty acids. It is recalled that the term “sugar” refers to oxygen bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds bearing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which include at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides other than the anionic polysaccharides described previously.
Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, notably alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance methylglucose.
The sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen notably from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6 to C30 and preferably C12 to C22 fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
The esters may also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates, arachidonates or mixtures thereof notably such as the mixed oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate and palmito-stearate esters
More particularly, use is made of monoesters and diesters and notably sucrose, glucose or methylglucose mono- or di-oleates, -stearates, -behenates, -oleopalmitates, -linoleates, - linolenates and -oleostearates, and mixtures thereof.
An example that may be mentioned is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.
Preferably, use will be made of a liquid ester of a monoacid and of a monoalcohol.
According to one embodiment, fatty substances that are useful according to the invention are chosen from liquid fatty substances, preferably from liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, plant oils other than shea olein, liquid fatty alcohols and liquid fatty esters, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from liquid fatty alcohols. Preferentially, the liquid fatty substance(s) are chosen from liquid fatty alcohols, in particular oleyl alcohol.
The solid fatty substances preferably have a viscosity of greater than 2 Pa.s, measured at 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s 1.
The solid fatty substance(s) are preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and/or of fatty alcohols, waxes, ceramides and mixtures thereof.
The term “fatty alcohol” means a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and comprising at least one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated.
The solid fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated, and linear or branched, and include from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, the solid fatty alcohols have the structure R-OH with R denoting a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40, preferentially from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms and even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
The solid fatty alcohols that may be used are preferably chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, preferably linear and saturated, (mono)alcohols including from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 and even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
The solid fatty alcohols that may be used may be chosen, alone or as a mixture, from: myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (or 1- octadecanol); arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol); ceryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol); montanyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol); myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).
Preferentially, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol. Particularly preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof such as cetylstearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol.
The solid esters of a fatty acid and/or of a fatty alcohol that may be used are preferably chosen from esters derived from a C9-C26 carboxylic fatty acid and/or from a C9-C26 fatty alcohol. Preferably, these solid fatty esters are esters of a linear or branched, saturated carboxylic acid including at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and of a linear or branched, saturated monoalcohol, including at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The saturated carboxylic acids may optionally be hydroxylated, and are preferably monocarboxylic acids.
Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22 alcohols and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C2-C26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
Mention may notably be made of octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, octyl pelargonate, cetyl myristate, myristyl myristate, stearyl myristate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, dioctyl maleate, octyl palmitate, myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the solid esters of a fatty acid and/or of a fatty alcohol are chosen from C9-C26 alkyl palmitates, notably myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate or stearyl palmitate; C9-C26 alkyl myristates, such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyl myristate; and C9-C26 alkyl stearates, notably myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate and stearyl stearate; and mixtures thereof.
For the purposes of the present invention, a wax is a lipophilic compound, which is solid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, with a reversible solid/liquid change of state, having a melting point greater than about 40°C, which may be up to 200°C, and having in the solid state anisotropic crystal organization. In general, the size of the wax crystals is such that the crystals diffract and/or scatter light, giving the composition that comprises them a more or less opaque cloudy appearance. By bringing the wax to its melting point, it is possible to make it miscible with oils and to form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but on returning the temperature of the mixture to room temperature, recrystallization of the wax, which is microscopically and macroscopically detectable (opalescence), is obtained.
In particular, the waxes that are suitable for use in the invention may be chosen from waxes of animal, plant or mineral origin, non-silicone synthetic waxes, and mixtures thereof.
Mention may be made notably of hydrocarbon-based waxes, for instance beeswax, notably of organic origin, lanolin wax and Chinese insect waxes; rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japan wax and sumac wax; montan wax, orange wax and lemon wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, the waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, and also esters thereof.
Mention may also be made of C20 to C60 microcrystalline waxes, such as Microwax HW.
Mention may also be made of the MW 500 polyethylene wax sold under the reference Permalen 50-L polyethylene.
Mention may also be made of the waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils containing linear or branched C8 to C32 fatty chains. Among these waxes mention may notably be made of isomerized jojoba oil such as the trans-isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, notably the product manufactured or sold by the company Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut kernel oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil and bis(1 ,1 ,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate, notably the product sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company Heterene.
The waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax Castor 16L64® and 22L73® by the company Sophim, may also be used.
A wax that may also be used is a C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group containing from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture. Such a wax is notably sold under the names Kester Wax K 82 P®, Hydroxypolyester K 82 P® and Kester Wax K 80 P® by the company Koster Keunen.
It is also possible to use microwaxes in the compositions of the invention; mention may notably be made of carnauba microwaxes, such as the product sold under the name MicroCare 350® by the company Micro Powders, synthetic-wax microwaxes, such as the product sold under the name MicroEase 114S® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes constituted of a mixture of carnauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as the products sold under the names Micro Care 300® and 310® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes constituted of a mixture of carnauba wax and of synthetic wax, such as the product sold under the name Micro Care 325® by the company Micro Powders, polyethylene microwaxes, such as the products sold under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by the company Micro Powders, and polytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes, such as the products sold under the names Microslip 519® and 519 L® by the company Micro Powders.
The waxes are preferably chosen from mineral waxes, for instance paraffin, petroleum jelly, lignite or ozokerite wax; plant waxes, for instance cocoa butter or cork fibre or sugar cane waxes, olive tree wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, ouricury wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, esparto grass wax, or absolute waxes of flowers, such as the essential wax of blackcurrant blossom sold by the company Bertin (France); waxes of animal origin, for instance beeswaxes or modified beeswaxes (cera bellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; microcrystalline waxes; and mixtures thereof.
The ceramides, or ceramide analogues such as glycoceramides, which may be used in the compositions according to the invention, are known; mention may be made in particular of ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the Dawning classification.
The ceramides or analogues thereof that may be used preferably correspond to the following formula: R3CH(0H)CH(CH20R2)(NHC0R1), in which:
R1 denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group, derived from C14-C30 fatty acids, it being possible for this group to be substituted with a hydroxyl group in the alpha position, or a hydroxyl group in the omega position esterified with a saturated or unsaturated C16-C30 fatty acid;
R2 denotes a hydrogen atom, a (glycosyl)n group, a (galactosyl)m group or a sulfogalactosyl group, in which n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8;
R3 denotes a C15-C26 hydrocarbon-based group, saturated or unsaturated in the alpha position, this group possibly being substituted with one or more C1-C14 alkyl groups; it being understood that in the case of natural ceramides or glycoceramides, R3 may also denote a C15-C26 alpha-hydroxyalkyl group, the hydroxyl group being optionally esterified with a C16- C30 alpha-hydroxy acid.
The ceramides that are more particularly preferred are the compounds for which R1 denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from C16-C22 fatty acids; R2 denotes a hydrogen atom and R3 denotes a saturated linear C15 group.
Preferentially, use is made of ceramides for which R1 denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from C14-C30 fatty acids; R2 denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl group; and R3 denotes a -CH=CH-(CH2)i2-CH3 group. Use may also be made of compounds for which R1 denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical derived from C12-C22 fatty acids; R2 denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl radical and R3 denotes a saturated or unsaturated C12-C22 hydrocarbon-based radical and preferably a -CH=CH-(CH2)i2-CH3 group.
As compounds that are particularly preferred, mention may also be made of 2-N- linoleoylaminooctadecane-1 ,3-diol; 2-N-oleoylaminooctadecane-1 ,3-diol; 2-N- palmitoylaminooctadecane-1 ,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane-1 ,3-diol; 2-N- behenoylaminooctadecane-1 ,3-diol; 2-N-[2-hydroxypalmitoyl]aminooctadecane-1 ,3-diol; 2- N-stearoylaminooctadecane-1 ,3,4-triol and in particular N-stearoylphytosphingosine, 2-N- palmitoylaminohexadecane-1 ,3-diol, N-linoleoyldihydrosphingosine, N- oleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-palmitoyldihydrosphingosine, N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine, and N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine, N-docosanoyl-N-methyl-D-glucamine, cetylic acid N- (2-hydroxyethyl)-N-(3-cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl)amide and bis(N-hydroxyethyl-N- cetyl)malonamide; and mixtures thereof. N-Oleoyldihydrosphingosine will preferably be used.
The solid fatty substances are preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols, in particular from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol.
According to a preferred embodiment, the fatty substances, other than fatty acids and other than fatty substances derived from shea, that are useful according to the invention are chosen from solid fatty substances, preferably from solid fatty alcohols.
When they are present, the total content of the fatty substance(s), other than fatty acids and other than fatty substances derived from shea, preferably ranges from 5% to 30% by weight, more preferentially from 8% to 25% by weight and better still from 10% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more solid fatty substances other than fatty acids, the total content of the solid fatty substance(s) other than fatty acids preferably ranging from 5% to 30% by weight, more preferentially from 8% to 25% by weight and better still from 10% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
In another particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more liquid fatty substances other than fatty acids, the total content of the liquid fatty substance(s) other than fatty acids preferably ranging from 0.5% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 1 % to 10% by weight and better still from 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more solid fatty substances other than fatty acids and other than fatty substances derived from shea, preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols and one or more liquid fatty substances other than fatty acids and other than fatty substances derived from shea, preferably chosen from liquid fatty alcohols.
Anionic surfactants
The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more anionic surfactants.
Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises one or more anionic surfactants.
The term “anionic surfactant’ means a surfactant including, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups. These anionic groups are preferably chosen from the following groups:
CO2H, CO2-, SO3H, so3-, OSO3H, OSO3-, H2PO3, HPO3-, P03 2-, H2PO2, HPO2-, PO2 2-, POH and PO\
As examples of anionic surfactants that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, alkyl sulfonates, alkylamide sulfonates, alkylaryl sulfonates, a-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, acyl sarcosinates, acyl glutamates, alkyl sulfosuccinamates, acyl isethionates and N-(C1-C4)alkyl N-acyl taurates, salts of alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside- polycarboxylic acids, acyl lactylates, salts of D-galactoside uronic acids, salts of alkyl ether carboxylic acids, salts of alkylaryl ether carboxylic acids, salts of alkylamido ether carboxylic acids; fatty acid salts, and the corresponding non-salified forms of all these compounds; the alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds (unless specified otherwise) generally including from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group generally denoting a phenyl group.
These compounds may be oxyethylenated and then preferably include from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units.
The salts of C6-C24 alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids may be chosen from C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates. When the anionic surfactant(s) are in salt form, they may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt and preferably the sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts or alkaline-earth metal salts such as the magnesium salt.
Examples of amino alcohol salts that may notably be mentioned include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1 -propanol salts, 2- amino-2-methyl-1 ,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.
Alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.
The anionic surfactants that may be present may be mild anionic surfactants, i.e. anionic surfactants not bearing a sulfate function.
As regards the mild anionic surfactants, mention may be made in particular of the following compounds and salts thereof, and also mixtures thereof: polyoxyalkylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated alkylaryl ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated alkylamido ether carboxylic acids, in particular those including 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, alkyl D-galactoside uronic acids, acyl sarcosinates, acyl glutamates and alkylpolyglycoside carboxylic esters.
Use may be made most particularly of polyoxyalkylenated carboxylic acid alkyl ethers, for instance carboxylic acid lauryl ether (4.5 OE) sold, for example, under the name Akypo RLM 45 CA from Kao.
The anionic surfactants that may be present may be carboxylic acids comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, also known as fatty acids, optionally in salified form.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “fatty acid” means an acid comprising at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based chain, such as an alkyl or alkenyl chain, including at least 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and better still from 10 to 22 carbon atoms.
The carboxylic acids comprising at least 6 carbon atoms (or fatty acids) according to the invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated, nor (poly)glycerolated; in particular, they are neither (poly)oxyethylenated, nor (poly)oxypropylenated.
They preferably have the structure R-COOH in which R denotes a linear or branched C7- C29, preferably C9-C23 and better still C9-C17 alkyl or alkenyl group. Preferably, the fatty acid according to the invention is chosen from linear fatty acids, better still from unsaturated linear C10-C22 and notably C10-C18 fatty acids (R is a linear C9-C23 or even C9-C17 alkenyl).
Mention may notably be made of oleic, linoleic, linolenic and undecylenic acids, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, oleic acid will be used.
Among the anionic surfactants mentioned above, fatty acids are preferably used.
When the composition comprises one or more anionic surfactants, the total content of anionic surfactant(s) in the composition preferably ranges from 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1 % to 10% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 8% by weight, even better still from 1% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
When the composition comprises one or more anionic surfactants chosen from fatty acids, the total content of fatty acids in the composition preferably ranges from 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 8% by weight, even better still from 1% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises:
- at least one fatty substance derived from shea, preferably chosen from shea butter, shea olein and mixtures thereof;
- at least one alkyl(poly)glycoside;
- at least one polysaccharide chosen from anionic microbial gums;
- at least one alkaline agent and
- at least one dye chosen from direct dyes, oxidation dyes and mixtures thereof, preferably at least one dye chosen from oxidation dyes and mixtures thereof.
According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises:
- at least one fatty substance derived from shea, preferably chosen from shea butter, shea olein and mixtures thereof;
- at least one alkyl(poly)glycoside;
- at least one polysaccharide, chosen from anionic microbial gums;
- at least one alkaline agent; - at least one dye chosen from direct dyes, oxidation dyes and mixtures thereof, preferably at least one dye chosen from oxidation dyes and mixtures thereof;
- at least one sequestrant, preferably chosen from diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DTPA) and salts thereof, diethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and salts thereof, ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS) and salts thereof, etidronic acid and salts thereof, N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid (GLDA) and salts thereof, and mixtures thereof;
- at least one fatty substance other than fatty substances derived from shea and other than fatty acids, preferably at least one liquid fatty substance and at least one solid fatty substance.
Solvents
The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one organic solvent.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one organic solvent.
Examples of organic solvents that may be mentioned include linear or branched C2-C4 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; polyols and polyol ethers, for instance 2- butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, 1 ,3-propanediol, dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether and monoethyl ether, and also aromatic alcohols or ethers, for instance benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the organic solvent(s) are chosen from polyols, more preferentially, glycerol, 1 ,3-propanediol, and mixtures thereof.
The organic solvent(s) may be present in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably ranging from 2% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
In addition, the composition according to the invention is preferably an aqueous composition. The composition preferably comprises water in an amount of greater than or equal to 5% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 10% by weight, and better still greater than or equal to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Additives
The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more additives, other than the compounds of the invention and among which mention may be made of cationic, anionic, nonionic or amphoteric polymers or mixtures thereof, other than those mentioned previously, antidandruff agents, anti-seborrhoeic agents, agents for preventing hair loss and/or for promoting hair regrowth, vitamins and provitamins including panthenol, sunscreens, mineral or organic pigments, plasticizers, solubilizers, opacifiers or nacreous agents, antioxidants, hydroxy acids, fragrances, and preserving agents.
Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to select this or these optional additional compounds such that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the composition according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition(s).
The above additives may generally be present in an amount, for each of them, of between 0 and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the ready-to-use composition.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention does not comprise any chemical oxidizing agents.
Process
The present invention also relates to a process for dyeing keratin fibres, preferably the hair, which comprises the application to said keratin fibres of an effective amount of a composition as defined previously.
The composition may be applied to wet or dry keratin fibres. On conclusion of the treatment, the keratin fibres are optionally rinsed with water, optionally washed with a shampoo and then rinsed with water, before being dried or left to dry.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one oxidizing agent, preferably hydrogen peroxide.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention is mixed at the time of use with a composition comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent, preferably hydrogen peroxide.
According to this embodiment, at the time of use, the composition according to the invention results from the mixing of at least two compositions: a dye composition comprising:
- at least one fatty substance derived from shea, preferably chosen from shea butter, shea olein and mixtures thereof;
- at least one alkyl(poly)glycoside;
- at least one polysaccharide chosen from anionic microbial gums; - at least a dye, preferably chosen from oxidation dyes, and an oxidizing composition comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents, preferably hydrogen peroxide.
According to one embodiment, the process according to the invention comprises a step of mixing the composition according to the invention with an oxidizing composition comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent. This mixing step is preferably performed at the time of use, just before applying to the hair the composition resulting from the mixing.
According to this embodiment, the process for dyeing keratin fibres, preferably the hair, according to the invention, comprises the step of applying to the keratin fibres a composition resulting from the mixing, at the time of use, of at least two compositions: a) a composition comprising:
- at least one fatty substance derived from shea, preferably chosen from shea butter, shea olein and mixtures thereof;
- at least one alkyl(poly)glycoside;
- at least one polysaccharide chosen from anionic microbial gums;
- at least a dye, preferably chosen from oxidation dyes, and b) an oxidizing composition comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents, preferably hydrogen peroxide.
Preferably, the process according to the invention is a process for dyeing keratin fibres, preferably the hair.
In a preferred embodiment, the process for dyeing keratin fibres, preferably the hair, according to the invention, comprises the step of applying to the keratin fibres a composition resulting from the mixing, at the time of use, of at least two compositions: a) a dye composition comprising:
- at least one fatty substance derived from shea, preferably chosen from shea butter, shea olein and mixtures thereof;
- at least one alkyl(poly)glycoside;
- at least one polysaccharide chosen from anionic microbial gums; - at least one alkaline agent;
- at least one dye chosen from direct dyes, oxidation dyes and mixtures thereof, preferably at least one dye chosen from oxidation dyes and mixtures thereof, and b) an oxidizing composition comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents, preferably hydrogen peroxide.
More particularly, the chemical oxidizing agent(s) are chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates or ferricyanides, peroxygenated salts, for instance persulfates, perborates, peracids and precursors thereof and percarbonates of alkali metals or alkaline-earth metals, and mixtures thereof. The oxidizing agent is preferably chosen from hydrogen peroxide.
The oxidizing composition is preferably an aqueous composition. In particular, it comprises more than 5% by weight of water, preferably more than 10% by weight of water and even more advantageously more than 20% by weight of water.
It may also comprise one or more organic solvents chosen from those listed previously; these solvents more particularly representing, when they are present, from 1% to 40% by weight and preferably from 5% to 30% by weight, relative to the weight of the oxidizing composition.
The oxidizing composition also preferably comprises one or more acidifying agents.
Among the acidifying agents, examples that may be mentioned include mineral or organic acids, for instance hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids, for instance acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid or lactic acid, and sulfonic acids.
The oxidizing composition may also comprise fatty substances such as those described previously, preferably chosen from fatty alcohols, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof, surfactants and polymers.
Usually, the pH of the oxidizing composition, when it is aqueous, is less than 7.
Preferably, the oxidizing composition comprises hydrogen peroxide as oxidizing agent, in aqueous solution, the concentration of which ranges, more particularly, from 0.1% to 50%, more particularly between 0.5% and 20% and even more preferentially between 1 % and 15% by weight, relative to the weight of the oxidizing composition.
Preferably, at least one of the compositions (dye composition or oxidizing composition) is aqueous.
Kit Another subject of the invention is a multi-compartment device, preferably comprising two compartments, for dyeing keratin fibres, preferably the hair, comprising at least a first compartment containing the composition according to the invention and at least a second compartment containing an oxidizing composition as described above. The compositions of the device according to the invention are packaged in separate compartments, optionally accompanied by suitable application means, which may be identical or different, such as fine brushes, coarse brushes or sponges.
The device mentioned above may also be equipped with a means for dispensing the desired mixture on the hair, for instance the devices described in patent FR 2 586913. Finally, the present invention relates to the use of a composition as described above, for dyeing keratin fibres, preferably for dyeing keratin fibres and in particular the hair.
The examples that follow serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature.
Examples In the examples that follow, all the amounts are given as mass percentages of active material (AM) relative to the total weight of the composition (unless otherwise mentioned).
Compositions
The dye compositions A1 to A2 and the oxidizing composition O were prepared from the ingredients of which the contents are indicated in the table below (% AM): Dye compositions [Table 1]
Figure imgf000039_0001
Figure imgf000040_0002
Oxidizing composition
[Table 2]
Figure imgf000040_0003
At the time of use, each of the dye compositions A1 and A2 is mixed with 1.5 times its weight of oxidizing agent O. Each of the mixtures is then applied to locks of 90% permanent-waved grey hair at a rate of 5 g of mixture/g of hair.
After a leave-on time of 30 minutes on a plate thermostatically regulated at 27°C, the hair is rinsed, washed with a standard shampoo and dried. Results
The colorimetric measurements were performed with the aid of a Konica Minolta CM- 3600A spectrocolorimeter (illuminant D65, angle 10°, specular component included) in the CIELab system.
In this system C* = (a*2 + b*2)1/2 The higher the value of C*, the more chromatic the colouring obtained.
[Table 3]
Figure imgf000040_0001
Figure imgf000041_0001
Composition A1 according to the invention comprising xanthan gum leads to a higher value of C*, and thus to more chromatic colouring, in comparison with comparative composition A2 not comprising xanthan gum.

Claims

[Claim 1] Composition comprising:
- at least one fatty substance obtained from shea, preferably chosen from shea butter, shea olein and mixtures thereof;
- at least one alkyl(poly)glycoside;
- at least one polysaccharide chosen from anionic microbial gums;
- at least one dye, preferably chosen from oxidation dyes.
[Claim 2] Composition according to the preceding claim, in which the total content of fatty substances obtained from shea ranges from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 2% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[Claim 3] Composition according to either of the preceding claims, in which the alkyl(poly)glycoside(s) are chosen from (C6-C24 alkyl)(poly)glycosides, preferably from (C8-C18 alkyl)(poly)glycosides, preferentially chosen from coco glucoside, lauryl glucoside, caprylyl/capryl glucoside and cetearyl glucoside, and mixtures thereof, better still cetearyl glucoside.
[Claim 4] Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the total content of alkyl(poly)glycosides ranges from 0.01 % to 20% by weight, preferentially from 0.02% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.08% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, or even from 0.2% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[Claim 5] Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the polysaccharides are chosen from xanthan gums.
[Claim 6] Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the total content of polysaccharides ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.05% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.1 % to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[Claim 7] Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one alkaline agent, preferably chosen from alkanolamines such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine; aqueous ammonia, carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium (hydrogen) carbonate and potassium (hydrogen) carbonate, alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal silicates or metasilicates such as sodium metasilicate, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from alkanolamines and aqueous ammonia, better still from alkanolamines, even better still monoethanolamine.
[Claim 8] Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising the at least one dye chosen from direct dyes, oxidation dyes and mixtures thereof, preferably from oxidation dyes and mixtures thereof.
[Claim 9] Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one coupler, preferably chosen from 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, addition salts thereof, solvates thereof and/or solvates of salts thereof, hydroxyethyl-3,4- methylenedioxyaniline, addition salts thereof, solvates thereof and/or solvates of salts thereof, 2-amino-5-ethylphenol, addition salts thereof, solvates thereof and/or solvates of salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
[Claim 10] Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one oxidation base preferably chosen from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases, and the corresponding addition salts, solvates, solvates of salts and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-/3- hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2- -hydroxypropyl-para-phenylenediamine, and addition salts thereof, solvates thereof and/or solvates of salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
[Claim 11] Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one sequestrant; preferably chosen from diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid
(DTPA) and salts thereof, diethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and salts thereof, ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS) and salts thereof, etidronic acid and salts thereof, N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid (GLDA) and salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
[Claim 12] Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one fatty substance other than fatty acids and other than the fatty substances obtained from shea, preferably chosen from fatty alcohols, more preferentially from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof such as cetylstearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol.
[Claim 13] Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, not comprising any chemical oxidizing agent.
[Claim 14] Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 12, comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent, preferably hydrogen peroxide.
[Claim 15] Process for dyeing keratin fibres, preferably the hair, comprising the application to said keratin fibres of the composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims.
[Claim 16] Process for dyeing keratin fibres, preferably the hair, according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the composition defined according to Claim 14 is obtained from the mixing of at least two compositions: a) a composition containing
- at least one fatty substance obtained from shea, preferably chosen from shea butter, shea olein and mixtures thereof;
- at least one alkyl(poly)glycoside; - at least one polysaccharide chosen from anionic microbial gums;
- at least one dye, preferably chosen from oxidation dyes, and b) an oxidizing composition comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents, preferably hydrogen peroxide.
[Claim 17] Multi-compartment device, preferably two-compartment device, for dyeing keratin fibres, preferably the hair, comprising at least a first compartment containing a composition as defined according to any one of Claims 1 to 13 and at least a second compartment containing an oxidizing composition comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents, preferably hydrogen peroxide.
[Claim 18] Use of a composition as defined in any one of Claims 1 to 14, for dyeing keratin fibres, and in particular the hair.
PCT/EP2022/067977 2021-06-30 2022-06-29 Composition comprising shea, an alkyl(poly)glycoside, a polysaccharide and a dye WO2023275187A1 (en)

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FRFR2107041 2021-06-30
FR2107041A FR3124732B1 (en) 2021-06-30 2021-06-30 Composition comprising shea, an alkyl (poly) glycoside, a polysaccharide and an alkaline agent and/or a coloring agent

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