WO2023209746A1

WO2023209746A1 - Method of manufacturing a cast cosmetic product with a core, and cast cosmetic product thus obtained

Info

Publication number: WO2023209746A1
Application number: PCT/IT2023/050106
Authority: WO
Inventors: Umberto CARRARA; Luca GUERINI ROCCO; Lucio Serafino PAGLIOLI
Original assignee: Ve.Tra.Co Srl
Priority date: 2022-04-26
Filing date: 2023-04-20
Publication date: 2023-11-02
Also published as: IT202200008135A1

Abstract

The present invention relates to a method of manufacturing a cast cosmetic product (100, 300) with a core (200), comprising the steps of: providing a first mould (1 ) provided with a first cavity (11 ) having the same shape as the core (200) to be obtained; casting at least one first product formulation (10) into said cavity (11 ) of said first mould (1 ); cooling said first product formulation (10) inside said first cavity (11 ) to obtain a preformed core (200); extracting the preformed core (200) from said first mould (1 ); providing a second mould (2) comprising a second cavity (12) having the same shape as the cosmetic product (100, 300) to be obtained; arranging said preformed core (200) inside said second mould (2) occupying only a central portion of said second cavity (12), pushing it or not to touch the second mould (2); applying a second product formulation (20, 20') different from said first product formulation (10) on said preformed core (200) so as to at least partially coat it; cooling said second product formulation (20, 20') inside said cavity (12) to obtain a cast cosmetic product (100, 300) comprising said preformed core (200) inside it; extracting said cast cosmetic product (100, 300) with preformed core (200) from said second mould (2).

Description

METHOD OF MANUFACTURING A CAST COSMETIC PRODUCT WITH A CORE, AND CAST COSMETIC PRODUCT THUS OBTAINED

Technical field of application

The present invention relates to the cosmetic industry sector, and in particular it relates to a method of manufacturing a cast cosmetic product with a core, in particular a lipstick of the crayon type with a core. The invention also relates to a lipstick of the crayon type with core obtained by such method, and more generally to a cast cosmetic product with an internal core.

Background art

Cast cosmetic products generally comprise formulations of products processed by their casting inside suitable forming moulds.

Examples of cast cosmetic products are lipsticks, glosses, concealers, eye shadows, blushes, foundations, etc.

A widespread example of a cast cosmetic product is crayon-type lipsticks, and in the following description particular reference will be made to crayon-type lipsticks with core.

Lipsticks of the crayon type with core are compound lipsticks, comprising a crayon with an elongated external body and an internal core arranged longitudinally, precisely defined as the core, coaxial to the external body or even offset from it, and a package for the protection and the use of the crayon.

Said core may be through, or blind and not passing through the whole crayon, but stopping at a certain distance from the tip, so as to be covered by the external body.

The cross-sectional shape of the core remains constant throughout its length and is usually round or oval, but other common sections may be in the shape of a heart, flower, or lozenge.

Said core with a constant section then comprises a smooth lateral surface, free of protrusions or recesses and workings in relief and recessed.

From a cosmetic point of view, cored crayon lipsticks offer, compared to single colour lipsticks, two formulas with different properties in a single crayon. This, combined with the unusual and captivating aspect, gives lipsticks with a core a certain share of the cosmetic market.

Particular mention should be made of crayon lipsticks with a transparent body and coloured core, certainly more striking and original in appearance than traditional lipsticks with an opaque external body.

To produce crayon lipsticks with a core, the following main operations are currently carried out:

- providing at least one mould comprising a cavity having the same shape as the crayon to be obtained;

- arranging inside said mould a tubular metal insert with a cross section of constant shape which occupies a central portion of said cavity crossing it longitudinally in part or wholly;

- casting a first product formulation into said cavity and around said insert;

- cooling said first product inside said mould to obtain a crayon comprising a substantially cylindrical elongated body, a bottom, a shaped tip ;

- extracting said insert to obtain a longitudinal, blind or through central duct depending on how much said insert is immersed along the mould cavity;

- casting a second product formulation into the central duct of said crayon;

- cooling said second product inside said central longitudinal duct to obtain a lipstick of the crayon type with a core;

- removing the crayon with core from the mould.

From patent application no. 102019000002831 in the name of COSMATIC SRL a method of manufacturing crayon lipsticks with a core of the type described above is known.

The traditional manufacturing method described above has limitations and drawbacks mainly due to the use of metal inserts, and concerning the realization of the core inside the crayon, in fact obtained in the space left free by the metal insert in the crayon.

Of course, since the metal insert may only be extracted by sliding it upwards inside the crayon, said insert must have a smooth surface and a substantially constant cross-section, free of undercuts or elements in relief or recessed, to prevent the crayon from being damaged or broken during extraction. The possibility of diversifying lipsticks, with different core shapes, is in fact very limited. A further drawback in the production process, and in particular in the step of extracting the insert from the crayon once the first formulation has cooled, is due to the adhesion force of the cast product to the metal insert which occurs during the hardening of the first formulation. During the extraction of the metal insert, two problematic cases may thus occur: some residues of solidified product could remain clinging to the insert, leaving a cavity for the casting of the second formulation which is not smooth, but provided with holes, cracks or imperfections; in an even more disadvantageous case, the insert could carry with it the entire solidified body of the crayon, tearing it away from the mould cavity.

Disadvantageously, the metal inserts require the use of large amounts of lubricants to ensure the easy extraction thereof from the crayon: these lubricants, in addition to being expensive, can pollute the crayon on which residues can remain.

The use of metal inserts, combined with flexible moulds, also requires special and expensive centring means to guarantee the perfect axial alignment of the inserts in the mould cavity during the casting step of the first product formulation, and its maintenance in position until it cools down. However, the risk of creating lipsticks with an offset, slanted and misaligned core remains high.

The use of inserts therefore obliges to have a complex and bulky production machine: the inserts, in addition to being pieces in addition to the moulds, in fact require support and centring components which create bulk on the machine. Furthermore, each insert must remain inside the respective mould for different production steps, not only during the casting of the first product formulation, but also until it cools down: in order to produce several lipsticks in sequence, a considerable quantity of inserts and respective centring means must be used, which affects the cost of implementing the manufacturing method.

Furthermore, during a crayon format change, or even just a change of shape of the through core inside the crayon, which as mentioned before also constitutes an attractive aesthetic element and therefore subject to modifications and diversifications, it is necessary to use an entire set of new inserts, with all the costs thus multiplied both of purchase and of preparation.

Disclosure of the invention

The object of the present invention is therefore to propose a method of manufacturing cast cosmetic products provided with a core, for example lipsticks of the crayon type with a core, which is efficient and safe, which allows to obtain high quality cast cosmetic products free from defects, which is cost-effective, fast and easily manageable, and which does not force to the use of cumbersome and expensive manufacturing machines.

It is also an object of the invention to implement a method which allows the diversification of cast cosmetic products with a core, allowing for example to create lipsticks of the crayon type with an easily modifiable preformed core, which may be, according to market demands, both through and blind, smooth or shaped, with constant or variable section, single-color or multicolour.

The objects are achieved with a method of manufacturing a cast cosmetic product with a core, characterized in that it comprises the main steps of:

- providing a first mould comprising a first cavity having the same shape as the core to be obtained;

- casting at least one first product formulation into said cavity of said first mould;

- cooling said at least one first product formulation inside said first cavity to obtain a preformed core;

- extracting the preformed core from said first mould;

- providing a second mould comprising a second cavity having the same shape as the cosmetic product to be obtained;

- arranging said preformed core inside said second mould so as to occupy only a central portion of said second cavity, pushing it or not to touch said second mould;

- applying a second product formulation different from said first product formulation on said preformed core so as to at least partially coat it;

- cooling said second product formulation inside said cavity to obtain a cast cosmetic product comprising said preformed core inside it;

- extracting said cast cosmetic product with preformed core from said second mould.

According to a possible embodiment variant, said step of applying a second product formulation different from said first product formulation on said preformed core comprises the step of casting said second product formulation in the second cavity of said second mould, following the step of arranging the preformed core inside said second cavity.

Alternatively, said step of applying a second product formulation different from said first product formulation on said preformed core comprises the step of casting said second product formulation in the second cavity of said second mould, prior to the step of arranging the preformed core inside said second cavity.

According to one aspect of the invention, said step of casting said second product formulation into the second cavity of said second mould comprises the step of dosing said second product formulation into said second cavity up to a filling level such as to leave in said second cavity an empty volume corresponding to the volume of said preformed core.

Preferably, said steps of extracting the preformed core from said first mould and arranging said preformed core inside said second mould comprise the step of grasping and keeping suspended said preformed core.

In a preferred variant of the invention, said step of arranging said core inside said second mould comprises the step of leaning said preformed core to said second mould so that it passes through said cast cosmetic product.

According to a particularly advantageous aspect of the invention, said step of extracting said core from said first flexible mould comprises the step of deforming said first mould to facilitate the release of said preformed core.

Alternatively, said step of extracting said core from said first flexible mould comprises the step of opening said first mould to facilitate the release of said preformed core.

Preferably, said manufacturing method comprises the step of providing a first mould comprising a first cavity provided with smooth walls or with raised or recessed elements.

Moreover, said manufacturing method comprises the step of providing a first mould comprising a first cavity having cross sections of constant or different shape along its extension.

Advantageously, said manufacturing method comprises the step of casting in said cavity of said first mould a plurality of product formulations different at least in colour.

The invention also relates to a cast cosmetic product with a core characterized in that it comprises a preformed core and is obtained by the manufacturing method described above.

In a possible embodiment, said cast cosmetic product with a core comprises a preformed core of the cast wafer type.

In a preferred embodiment, said cast cosmetic product with a core comprises a crayon-type lipstick with a preformed core.

According to further aspects of the invention, said preformed core is smooth or comprises elements in relief or recessed, has cross sections of constant or different shape along its development, is passing through or confined within said crayon, is single-coloured or multi-coloured.

The main advantage of the manufacturing method object of the invention lies in the possibility of creating cores for cast cosmetic products of the most varied shapes, not only smooth and with a constant or slightly tapered section.

Making the core beforehand with a first dedicated mould and inserting said preformed core inside a second mould which will give the final shape to the cosmetic product eliminates all the limitations due to the problems of extracting the metal inserts.

The first mould with which the core is made may have the most varied shapes and include geometric protrusions or recessed artistic elements in relief, as well as being able to have variable cross-sections. In the same way, the surface of the cavity of the first mould does not necessarily have to be smooth, but may include bosses, reliefs, holes, swellings, incisions, grooves: the deformability of the mould will facilitate the core extraction step once it has solidified.

The preformed core, of any shape and geometry, is inserted and kept suspended in the second mould which will give shape to the final cosmetic product and it remains there permanently without needing to be moved, whether it is placed in the still empty second mould and then covered by the second product formulation, or if it is immersed in the second product formulation already previously cast. Depending on the size of the core and how far it is inserted into the cavity of the second mould, it is possible to obtain cosmetic products, for example crayon lipsticks, with a through core or with an internal core.

Brief description of the drawings

Further features and advantages of the invention will become apparent from the more detailed description set forth below, with the aid of the figures which show preferred embodiments thereof, illustrated by way of non-limiting example, in which:

Figures 1 a, 1 b, 1 c, 1d, 1e, 1f, 1 g, 1 h represent, in schematic form with vertical sections, different steps in sequence of the manufacturing method of cast cosmetic products with a core according to a possible variant of the invention;

Figures 2a, 2b, 2c, 2d, 2e, 2f, 2g represent, in schematic form with vertical sections, different steps in sequence of the manufacturing method of cast cosmetic products with a core according to a possible variant of the invention;

Figures 3, 4, 5 show, in vertical section, lipsticks of the crayon type with a core according to possible embodiments, obtained by means of the manufacturing method object of the invention;

Figure 6 represents, in vertical section, a cast cosmetic product, in wafer with a core, obtained by the manufacturing method object of the invention.

Detailed description of preferred embodiments of the invention

With particular reference to Figures 1 a-1 h, the main steps of the method of manufacturing lipsticks 100 of the crayon type with a core 200 according to a first variant object of the invention are illustrated schematically.

Figure 1 a shows the step of providing a first mould 1 comprising a first cavity 11 of a substantially elongated shape and having the same shape as the core 200 to be obtained.

Said first cavity 11 comprises a side wall 13 and a shaped tip 14.

In the illustrated variant, said cavity 11 has cross sections which differ in shape and size; along its longitudinal development it has a succession of swellings and bottlenecks; the shaped tip 14 is rounded.

Alternatively, as will be seen in the variants illustrated further on, said cavity 11 may be substantially cylindrical and its side wall 13 may be smooth or comprising bosses or swellings or raised or recessed elements; said shaped tip 14 may be flat, inclined, ogival, or other alternative shapes.

In all the variants illustrated, reference will always be made to a first mould 1 of the deformable type, made for example of a flexible material such as silicone.

Alternatively, said first mould 1 could also be made of rigid metallic material, and be composed for example of two shells and of the openable type.

Figure 1 b illustrates the step of casting a first product formulation 10 into said cavity 11 of said first mould 1 , followed immediately by the cooling step of said first cast product formulation 10 to obtain a preformed core 200. According to possible variants, several formulations of product 10, 10' having different features, for example different in colour, may be cast into the cavity 11 of said first mould 1 , where after the casting of each formulation, the cooling thereof is provided.

Figure 1 c illustrates the extraction step of said preformed and cooled core 200 from said first mould 1 .

In the variant illustrated in which said first mould 1 is made of flexible material such as silicone, said step of extracting said core 200 from said first flexible mould 1 comprises the step of deforming said first mould 1 to facilitate the release of said core 200.

To deform said first mould 1 , it is possible to act by suction from the outside on the side wall 13 of its cavity 11 , detaching it from the preformed core 200 and thus leaving the latter free to be picked up.

During the extraction step of said preformed core 200, the latter is kept suspended vertically.

In an alternative variant in which said first mould is metallic, the extraction of the core 200 provides for the opening of the mould and the removal of its shells to release the preformed core 200.

Figure 1d illustrates the step of providing a second mould 2 comprising a second cavity 12 having the same shape as the crayon to be obtained, provided in this case with a smooth and substantially cylindrical side wall and a convex tip.

Preferably, said second mould 2 is also made of silicone, i.e. a deformable material which will then facilitate the step of extracting the finished crayon. Figure 1 e illustrates the step of arranging longitudinally inside said second mould 2 said preformed core 200 so as to occupy a central portion of said second cavity 12.

Even during positioning in said second mould 2, said core 200 continues to be kept vertically suspended.

In the illustrated variant, said preformed core 200 only partially occupies the cavity 12 of the second mould 2 and does not pass through it completely, but alternatively, said preformed core 200 can be lowered into the cavity 12 of the second mould 2 until it touches its tip, remaining perfectly coaxial to the cavity 12 of the mould 2.

Figure 1f illustrates the step of applying a second product formulation 20 different from said first product formulation 10 on said preformed core 200.

This application takes place by casting the second product formulation 20 into the second cavity 12 of said second mould 2 so as to at least partially coat said preformed core 200 or until it is completely enclosed.

Figure 1 g illustrates the cooling step of said second product formulation 20 inside said cavity 12 to obtain a crayon comprising said preformed core 200 inside it.

The final steps provide for applying a cup to the crayon thus obtained and extracting said crayon with preformed core 200 from said second mould 2, thus obtaining the lipstick 100 of the crayon type with internal preformed core 200 with sections of different shapes illustrated in Figure 1 h. With particular reference to Figures 2a-2g, the main steps of the method of manufacturing lipsticks 100 of the crayon type with a core 200 in an alternative variant to that described above are illustrated schematically.

The first steps of the method, relating to the preforming of a core 200, are the same, namely:

- providing a first deformable mould 1 comprising a first cavity 11 reproducing the same shape of the core 200 to be obtained (Figure 2a);

- casting at least one first formulation of the product 10 (Figure 2b) into said cavity 11 of said first mould 1 and cooling it to obtain a preformed core 200;

- extracting the preformed core 200 from said first mould 1 (Figure 2c).

The core 200 shown here has a cylindrical shape, comprises a smooth side wall 13 and a flat and inclined tip 14.

Particular attention should be paid to the steps for inserting the core 200 into a second mould 2 and to the actual creation of the crayon, which differ from the process steps illustrated above.

Figure 2d illustrates the step of providing a second mould 2 comprising a second cavity 12 having the same shape as the crayon to be obtained.

Figure 2e illustrates the step of casting a second product formulation 20 into the second cavity 12 of said second mould 2, when still empty, and therefore, with respect to what is illustrated in Figures 1 e-1 f, before inserting the preformed core 200 in the second mould 2. The step of casting the second product formulation 20 comprises the step of dosing said second product formulation 20 into said second cavity 12 up to a filling level such as to leave an empty volume in said second cavity 12 corresponding to the volume of said core 200.

Figure 2f illustrates the step of arranging longitudinally inside the cavity 12 of said second mould 2 full with said second formulated product 20 just cast, said preformed core 200 so as to occupy a central portion thereof.

The core 200 is introduced into the cavity 12 of said second mould 2 until its shaped tip 14 touches the bottom of the mould itself.

During the insertion of the core 200, the filling level of the cavity 12 with the second product formulation 20 rises, until it reaches the edge of the side wall of the cavity 12 of said second mould 2.

The operation of introducing the preformed core 200 is carried out before the cooling step of the second product formulation 20, shown instead in Figure 2g where the by now solidified crayon with the preformed core 200 inside is evident.

The lipsticks 100 with preformed core 200 obtained with the method described above are therefore configured as crayons comprising a central core 200, made with a first product formulation 10 having its own properties, and an external body, partially or totally crossed by said core 200, made with a second product formulation 20 advantageously having other properties.

Figures 3, 4 and 5 illustrate, by way of example only but without being limiting, possible variants of the lipsticks 100 of the crayon type with preformed core 200.

In all variants, the crayon has a substantially cylindrical shape and comprises a bottom, a more or less tapered side surface, and a tip shaped according to the shape of the cavity 12 of the second mould 2 used.

It is clear that the external body of the crayon may also have a shape that is not exactly cylindrical, for example tapered, and the cross section may be elliptical or oval as well as round.

The most scenographic version for this type of lipstick 100 provides that the external body of the crayon is transparent to allow to see and appreciate the original shape of the central core 200 inside; for this purpose said second product formulation 20, with which said outer body is made, will be transparent or translucent.

Granules may be contained in said second formulated product 20 for an even more surprising effect.

In detail, Figure 3 illustrates a crayon lipstick 100 with an internal core 200 comprising bulges, or raised elements 201 , in particular shaped and comprising a plurality of cross sections narrowed in sequence. The core 200 is confined within the crayon.

Figure 4 instead illustrates a crayon lipstick 100 with a through core 200 comprising reliefs and recesses 201 opposite each other; said core 200 is multi-coloured, made with two product formulations 10, 10' of different colours cast in overlapping layers alternated with each other. Being a through core 200, its tip 14 is coplanar with the tip of said crayon.

Figure 5 illustrates a crayon lipstick 100 with a smooth multicoloured through core 200, made with product formulations 10, 10' of different colours cast in oblique layers for a “spiral” effect.

The invention has so far been illustrated and described with reference preferably to the manufacture of a particular cosmetic product, i.e. a lipstick 100 of the crayon type with an external body and an internal core 200.

However, the same claimed manufacturing method may also be used to make other types of cosmetic products, such as cosmetic products 300 in cast wafers, such as for example eye shadows or blushes, coated with a further cosmetic product, advantageously of the transparent type (Figure 6).

In the same manufacturing method described above, mutatis mutandis, a cast wafer 200, previously prepared according to the prior art by means of at least a first product formulation 10, may be assimilated to said preformed core; said cast wafer 200 is then immersed in a mould, which will give the shape to the finished cosmetic product 300, where, beforehand or subsequently, a finishing cosmetic product formulation 20' will be cast; this finishing cosmetic product formulation 20' is preferably transparent so as to coat the wafer protecting it but allowing a glimpse of it inside.

Claims

1. Method of manufacturing a cast cosmetic product (100, 300) with a core (200), characterized in that it comprises the main steps of:

- providing a first mould (1 ) comprising a first cavity (11 ) having the same shape as the core (200) to be obtained;

- casting at least one first product formulation (10) into said cavity (11 ) of said first mould (1 );

- cooling said at least one first product formulation (10) inside said first cavity (11 ) to obtain a preformed core (200);

- extracting the preformed core (200) from said first mould (1 );

- providing a second mould (2) comprising a second cavity (12) having the same shape as the cosmetic product (100, 300) to be obtained;

- arranging said preformed core (200) inside said second mould (2) so as to occupy only a central portion of said second cavity (12), pushing it or not to touch said second mould (2);

- applying a second product formulation (20, 20’) different from said first product formulation (10) on said preformed core (200) so as to at least partially coat it;

- cooling said second product formulation (20, 20’) inside said cavity (12) to obtain a cast cosmetic product (100, 300) comprising said preformed core (200) inside it;

- extracting said cast cosmetic product (100, 300) with preformed core (200) from said second mould (2). Manufacturing method according to claim 1 , characterized in that said step of applying a second product formulation (20, 20’) different from said first product formulation (10) on said preformed core (200) comprises the step of casting said second product formulation (20, 20’) in the second cavity (12) of said second mould (2), following the step of arranging the preformed core (200) inside said second cavity (12). Manufacturing method according to claim 1 , characterized in that said step of applying a second product formulation (20, 20’) different from said first product formulation (10) on said preformed core (200) comprises the step of casting said second product formulation (20, 20’) in the second cavity (12) of said second mould (2), prior to the step of arranging the preformed core (200) inside said second cavity (12). Manufacturing method according to claim 3, characterized in that it comprises the step of dosing said second product formulation (20, 20’) into said second cavity (12) up to a filling level such as to leave an empty volume in said second cavity (12) corresponding to the volume of said preformed core (200). Manufacturing method according to claim 1 , characterized in that said steps of extracting the preformed core (200) from said first mould (1 ) and arranging said preformed core (200) inside said second mould (2) comprise the step of grasping and keeping suspended said preformed core (200). Manufacturing method according to claim 1 , characterized in that said step of arranging said preformed core (200) inside said second mould (2) comprises the step of leaning said preformed core (200) to said second mould (2) so that it passes through said cast cosmetic product (100, 300). Manufacturing method according to claim 1 , characterized in that said step of extracting said preformed core (200) from said first mould (1 ) comprises the step of deforming said first mould (1 ) to facilitate the escape of said preformed core (200). Manufacturing method according to claim 1 , characterized in that said step of extracting said preformed core (200) from said first mould (1 ) comprises the step of opening said first mould (1 ) to facilitate the escape of said preformed core (200). Manufacturing method according to claim 1 , characterized in that it comprises the step of providing a first mould (1 ) comprising a first cavity (11 ) provided with smooth walls or with raised or recessed elements. Manufacturing method according to claim 1 , characterized in that it comprises the step of providing a first mould (1 ) comprising a first cavity (11 ) having cross sections of constant or different shape along its extension. Manufacturing method according to claim 1 , characterized in that it comprises the step of casting in said cavity (11 ) of said first mould (1 ) a plurality of product formulations (10, 10’) different at least in colour. Cast cosmetic product (100, 300) with a core, characterized in that it comprises a preformed core (200) and is obtained by the manufacturing method according to claims 1 -11. Cast cosmetic product (300) with a core according to claim 12, characterized in that it comprises a preformed core (200) of the cast wafer type. Cast cosmetic product (100) with a core according to claim 12, characterized in that it comprises a lipstick (100) of the crayon type with preformed core (200). Crayon type lipstick (100) with a core (200) according to claim 14, characterized in that said preformed core (200) is smooth or comprises raised or recessed elements (201 ). Crayon type lipstick (100) with a core (200) according to claim 14, characterized in that said preformed core (200) has cross sections of constant or different shape along its extension. Crayon type lipstick (100) with a core (200) according to claim 14, characterized in that said preformed core (200) is passing through or confined within said crayon. Crayon type lipstick (100) with core (200) according to claim 14, characterized in that said preformed core (200) is monochrome or multi-coloured.