WO2023206341A1 - Composition for conditioning the hair - Google Patents

Composition for conditioning the hair Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2023206341A1
WO2023206341A1 PCT/CN2022/090208 CN2022090208W WO2023206341A1 WO 2023206341 A1 WO2023206341 A1 WO 2023206341A1 CN 2022090208 W CN2022090208 W CN 2022090208W WO 2023206341 A1 WO2023206341 A1 WO 2023206341A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
oil
composition according
composition
gum
hair
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/CN2022/090208
Other languages
French (fr)
Inventor
Paul EDUARDO ALVAREZ CAPOTE
Lingchao KONG
Wi Soon CHIA
Xing GU
Xiaoyin ZHOU
Shuhong Yuan
Original Assignee
L'oreal
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by L'oreal filed Critical L'oreal
Priority to PCT/CN2022/090208 priority Critical patent/WO2023206341A1/en
Priority to FR2205663A priority patent/FR3136368A1/en
Publication of WO2023206341A1 publication Critical patent/WO2023206341A1/en

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/11—Encapsulated compositions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/345—Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A61K8/375—Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/737—Galactomannans, e.g. guar; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B01—PHYSICAL OR CHEMICAL PROCESSES OR APPARATUS IN GENERAL
    • B01J—CHEMICAL OR PHYSICAL PROCESSES, e.g. CATALYSIS OR COLLOID CHEMISTRY; THEIR RELEVANT APPARATUS
    • B01J13/00—Colloid chemistry, e.g. the production of colloidal materials or their solutions, not otherwise provided for; Making microcapsules or microballoons
    • B01J13/02—Making microcapsules or microballoons

Definitions

  • the present invention belongs to the field of cosmetic product.
  • the present invention relates to a composition for conditioning the hair.
  • the present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for conditioning the hair.
  • the appearance and/or condition of keratin fibers are often affected by both extrinsic and intrinsic factors such as aging.
  • Keratin fibers, especially hair are constantly exposed to harsh extrinsic conditions, such as sun, chemical damage, e.g., from detergents, bleaching, relaxing, dyeing, and permanent waving, heat, e.g., from hair dryers or curlers, and mechanical stress or wear, e.g., from brushing or grooming activities.
  • any type of hair can diminish in quality and/or quantity over time by age and/or due to factors such as natural greasiness, sweat, skin cells shedded from the scalp, pollution, dirt, and extreme humidity conditions.
  • hair can dry out and lose its shine or color or become frizzy and less manageable under low and high humidity conditions. Under low humidity conditions, hair can dry out and dried-out hair tends to be less shiny and more brittle. Conversely, under high humidity conditions, hair tends to absorb water, causing hair to lose its shape and become unmanageable and unattractive.
  • hair can lose its desirable attributes due to physical stress on the hair such as brushing and application of heat. As such, these factors generally result in damage to the keratin fibers, either by affecting protective materials on the surface of the hair (the cuticle) , or by altering the hair fiber internally (the cortex) .
  • An object of the present invention is thus to develop a composition for conditioning the hair, which can effectively provide the hair conditioning benefits.
  • Another object of the present invention is thus to develop a composition for conditioning the hair, which is stable over time and easy to use with various types of hair products such as conditioning products.
  • the present invention provides a composition for conditioning the hair comprising hydrogel capsules suspended in a liquid medium, wherein the capsules comprises:
  • an inner core comprising at least one oil
  • hydrogel outer shell comprising water and at least one polysaccharide thickener
  • liquid medium comprises is a hydroalcoholic medium.
  • composition according to the present invention comprises an inner core oil phase, a hydrogel outer shell phase, and a liquid medium phase, thus it is a three-phase system, which is stable under room temperature, 4°C, and 45°C for at least 2 months.
  • composition according to the present invention can provide the hair with conditioning benefits.
  • compositions according to the present invention can be applied easily and uniformly on the hair, and be rinsed off easily.
  • the present invention provides a process for conditioning the hair comprising applying the composition as described above onto the hair.
  • a composition for conditioning the hair comprises hydrogel capsules suspended in a liquid medium, wherein the capsules comprises:
  • an inner core comprising at least one oil
  • hydrogel outer shell comprising water at least one polysaccharide thickener
  • liquid medium is a hydroalcoholic medium.
  • the weight ratio of the capsules to the medium is from 10: 90 to 40: 60, preferably from 20: 80 to 40: 60.
  • hydrogel capsule means beads consisting of an inner core and a hydrogel outer shell that covers and protects the core, wherein the outer shell is hydrogel.
  • the hydrogel capsules have a particle size of 0.3-15 mm, preferably 1-10 mm, more preferably 2-6 mm.
  • particle size of the hydrogel capsules means the average diameter size thereof.
  • the hydrogel capsules comprise an inner core comprising at least one oil and a hydrogel outer shell comprising at least one polysaccharide thickener.
  • Inner core comprising at least one oil
  • the hydrogel capsules comprise an inner core comprising at least one oil.
  • oil means a fatty compound or substance which is in the form of a liquid or a paste (non-solid) at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) .
  • oil (s) those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination thereof.
  • the oil (s) may be volatile or non-volatile, preferably non-volatile.
  • the oil may be a non-polar oil such as hydrocarbons, silicones, or the like; a polar oil such as esters, fatty alcohols and ethers; or a mixture thereof.
  • the oil may be oils of plant or animal origin and synthetic oils.
  • the oil is a triglyceride oil.
  • the triglyceride oil has the following formula (I) :
  • R 1 , R 2 and R 3 are independently chosen from C 6 -C 30 alkyl and C 6 -C 30 alkenyl.
  • R 1 , R 2 and R 3 are independently chosen from C 6 -C 24 alkyl and C 6 -C 24 alkenyl, preferably C 6 -C 20 alkyl and C 6 -C 20 alkenyl, more preferably C 6 -C 14 alkyl and C 6 -C 14 alkenyl, more preferably C 6 -C 12 alkyl and C 6 -C 12 alkenyl, most preferably C 6 -C 10 alkyl and C 6 -C 10 alkenyl, said alkyl or alkenyl is linear or branched.
  • R 1 , R 2 and R 3 may be different, or two or all of R 1 , R 2 and R 3 may be the same.
  • Preferred triglyceride oil according to formula (I) are obtained from carboxylic acids of carbon chain length ranging from C 6 to C 24 , preferably from C 6 to C 20 , and more preferably from C 6 to C 18 , linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and glycerol.
  • the triglyceride oil according to formula (I) are synthetic.
  • the triglyceride according to formula (I) are of plant origin.
  • the plant oils that comprise triglyceride according to formula (I) , or triglyceride according to formula (I) obtained from the plant oils can be used.
  • Vegetable derived triglyceride oils according to formula (I) are particularly preferred, and specific examples of preferred materials as sources of triglyceride according to formula (I) include peanut oil, sesame oil, avocado oil, coconut oil, cocoa butter oil, almond oil, safflower oil, corn oil, cotton seed oil, olive oil, jojoba oil, palm oil, soybean oil, wheat germ oil, linseed oil, and sunflower seed oil.
  • the composition according to the present invention comprises a triglyceride oil selected from peanut oil, sesame oil, avocado oil, coconut oil, cocoa butter oil, almond oil, safflower oil, corn oil, cotton seed oil, olive oil, jojoba oil, palm oil, soybean oil, wheat germ oil, linseed oil, sunflower seed oil, and a combination thereof.
  • a triglyceride oil selected from peanut oil, sesame oil, avocado oil, coconut oil, cocoa butter oil, almond oil, safflower oil, corn oil, cotton seed oil, olive oil, jojoba oil, palm oil, soybean oil, wheat germ oil, linseed oil, sunflower seed oil, and a combination thereof.
  • composition according to the present invention comprises soybean oil.
  • the oil is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 3 wt. %to 40 wt. %, more preferably from 5 wt. %to 35 wt. %, most preferably from 8 wt. %to 25 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the core may also comprise a fragrance.
  • the flagrance is not particularly limited.
  • Hydrogel outer shell comprising water and at least one polysaccharide thickener
  • the composition according to the invention comprises water and at least one polysaccharide thickener.
  • the outer shell has a thickness of 0.1-2 ⁇ m, preferably 0.1-1.5 ⁇ m.
  • polysaccharides is intended to mean a polymer constituted of sugar units.
  • sucrose unit is intended to mean an oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compound containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprises at least 4 carbon atoms.
  • the sugar units may be optionally modified by substitution, and/or by oxidation and/or by dehydration.
  • the sugar units that may be included in the polysaccharide thickener of the present invention are preferably derived from one or more of the following sugars: glucose, galactose, arabinose, rhamnose, mannose, xylose, fucose, anhydrogalactose, galacturonic acid, glucuronic acid, mannuronic acid, galactose sulfate, anhydrogalactose sulfate and fructose.
  • a) tree or shrub exudates including:
  • gum arabic branched polymer of galactose, arabinose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid
  • ghatti gum polymer derived from arabinose, galactose, mannose, xylose and glucuronic acid
  • karaya gum (polymer derived from galacturonic acid, galactose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid) ;
  • gum tragacanth polymer of galacturonic acid, galactose, fucose, xylose and arabinose
  • gums derived from algae including:
  • alginates polymers of mannuronic acid and of glucuronic acid
  • gums derived from seeds or tubers including:
  • guar gum polymer of mannose and galactose
  • locust bean gum polymer of mannose and galactose
  • tamarind gum polymer of galactose, xylose and glucose
  • microbial gums including:
  • xanthan gum polymer of glucose, mannose acetate, mannose/pyruvic acid and glucuronic acid
  • gellan gum polymer of partially acylated glucose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid
  • the polysaccharide (s) of the composition according to the invention can also be chosen from mixtures of the polysaccharides above.
  • These polymers can be physically or chemically modified.
  • physical treatment mention may in particular be made of a heat treatment.
  • Chemical treatments that may be mentioned include esterification, etherification, amidation and oxidation reactions. These treatments make it possible to produce polymers that may especially be non-ionic, anionic or amphoteric.
  • these chemical or physical treatments are applied to guar gums, and locust bean gums.
  • non-ionic guar gums that may be used according to the invention may be modified with C1-C6 (poly) hydroxyalkyl groups.
  • C1-C6 (poly) hydroxyalkyl groups mention may be made, by way of example, of hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.
  • guar gums are well known in the prior art and may be prepared, for example, by reacting corresponding alkene oxides, for instance, propylene oxides, with the guar gum so as to obtain a guar gum modified with hydroxypropyl groups.
  • the degree of hydroxyalkylation preferably varies from 0.4 to 1.2 and corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present on the guar gum.
  • non-ionic guar gums optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups are sold, for example, under the trade names Jaguar HP8, Jaguar HP60 and Jaguar HP120 by the company Rhodia Chimie.
  • the cationic guar gum is preferably hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, typically commercially available under the tradename of JAGUAR C 162, from the company Rhodia.
  • the polysaccharide thickener is chosen from:
  • these polysaccharide thickeners being optionally modified by a heat treatment, an esterification reaction, an etherification reaction, an amidation reaction or an oxidation reaction,
  • the polysaccharide thickener is selected from agar, hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, and a combination thereof.
  • the polysaccharide thickener can be mineral esters of cellulose (cellulose nitrates, sulfates, phosphates, etc. ) , organic cellulose esters (cellulose monoacetates, triacetates, amidopropionates, acetatebutyrates, acetatepropionates and acetatetrimellitates, etc. ) , and mixed organic/mineral esters of cellulose, such as cellulose acetatebutyrate sulfates and cellulose acetatepropionate sulfates.
  • cellulose ester ethers mention may be made of hydroxypropylmethylcellulose phthalates and ethylcellulose sulfates.
  • the polysaccharide thickener can non-ionic cellulose ethers, mention may be made of (C1-C4) alkylcelluloses, such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses (for example, Ethocel standard 100 Premium from Dow Chemical) ; (poly) hydroxy (C1-C4) alkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses (for example, Natrosol 250 HHR provided by Ashland) and hydroxypropylcelluloses (for example, Klucel EF from Aqualon) ; mixed (poly) hydroxy (C1-C4) alkyl (C1-C4) alkylcelluloses, such as hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses (for example, Methocel E4M from Dow Chemical) , hydroxyethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylethylcelluloses (for example, Bermocoll E 481 FQfrom Akzo Nobel) and hydroxybutylmethylcelluloses.
  • the polysaccharide thickener can be anionic cellulose ethers, mention may be made of (poly) carboxy (Cl-C4) alkylcelluloses and salts thereof. By way of example, mention may be made of carboxymethylcelluloses, carboxymethylmethylcelluloses (for example Blanose 7M from the company Aqualon) and carboxymethylhydroxyethylcelluloses, and the sodium salts thereof.
  • the polysaccharide thickener can be cationic cellulose ethers, mention may be made of cationic cellulose derivatives such as cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, and described in particular in patent US 4 131 576, such as (poly) hydroxy (Cl-C4) alkyl celluloses, for instance hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl-or hydroxypropylcelluloses grafted especially with a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt.
  • the commercial products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the names L 200 and H 100 by the company National Starch.
  • the composition comprises at least two distinct polysaccharides such as those mentioned above.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises a combination of agar, celluloses and guar such as those mentioned above, in particular a combination of agar and cationic hydroxyalkyl guar such as hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride and hydroxyalkyl cellulose such as hydroxypropyl methyl celllulose.
  • the polysaccharide thickener is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.05 wt. %to 2 wt. %, preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 1.5 wt. %, more preferably from 0.2 wt. %to 1.0 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the outer shell of the capsules comprise from 0.1 wt. %to 2 wt. %of agar and from 0.05 wt. %to 2 wt. %of cationic hydroxyalkylguar, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the present invention.
  • the outer shell of the capsules comprises from 0.1 wt. %to 1 wt. %of agar and from 0.05 wt. %to 1 wt. %of hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the present invention.
  • the shell may also comprise a pigment.
  • the pigment is not particularly limited.
  • the pigment can be selected from titanium dioxide, zirconium oxide, cerium oxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, alumina, aluminum hydroxide, chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, ferric blue, aluminum powder, copper powder, silver powder, gold powder, barium sulfate, carbon black, mica, and a mixture thereof.
  • the outer shell in the composition according to the present invention comprises mica as pigment.
  • the liquid medium in the composition according to the invention is a hydroalcoholic medium.
  • the liquid medium is a hydroalcoholic medium comprising water and monoalcohols and/or polyols, preferably polyol.
  • polyol should be understood as meaning, within the meaning of the present disclosure, an organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups.
  • the polyols of the cosmetic composition may be glycols or compounds with numerous hydroxyl groups.
  • the one or more polyols is/are selected from the group consisting of C2-C32 polyols.
  • the one or more polyols are liquid at ambient temperature (25°C) .
  • the one or more polyols may have from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 3 to 10 carbon atoms, more preferably from 3 to 8 carbon atoms.
  • Monoalcohols can be ethanol, propanol, butanol, etc.
  • Polyols that may be included in the compositions of the present disclosure include from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1, 3-propanediol, polyethylene glycols, caprylyl glycol, diglycerin, glycerin, or mixtures thereof.
  • the polyol is butylene glycol.
  • the at least one polyol comprises butylene glycol.
  • the compositions comprise at least butylene glycol, and one or more polyols other than butylene glycol such as propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and/or glycerin.
  • Non-limiting examples of polyols that may, optionally, be included in the cosmetic include and/or may be chosen from alkanediols such as glycerin, 1, 2, 6-hexanetriol, trimethylolpropane, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentaethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-butene-1, 4-diol, 2-ethyl-1, 3-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2, 4-pentanediol, caprylyl glycol, 1, 2-hexanediol, 1, 2-pentanediol, and 4-methyl-1, 2-pentanediol; glycol ethers such as ethylene glycol monomethyl ether, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether, ethylene glycol monobutyl ether, ethylene glycol monomethyl ether acetate, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glyco
  • the one or more polyols may, optionally, be glycols or glycol ethers such as, e.g., monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or ethers thereof such as, e.g., monomethyl ether of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol as well as alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, e.g., monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether of diethylene glycol.
  • glycols or glycol ethers such as, e.g., monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or ethers thereof such as, e.g., monomethyl ether of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol as well as alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, e
  • the one or more polyols may include or are chosen from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, 1, 3-propanediol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerin, and a mixture thereof.
  • the at least one polyol comprises one or more glycols.
  • the glycols are selected from the group consisting of hexylene glycol, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and combinations thereof.
  • the at least one polyol comprises butylene glycol, in particular, 1, 3-butylene glycol.
  • the butylene glycol is produced by biotechnology.
  • the alcohol (s) is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 2 wt. %to 50 wt. %, more preferably from 4 wt. %to 40 wt. %, most preferably from 4 wt. %to 20 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the medium comprises 50-80 wt. %of water in the medium, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the liquid medium or the hydrogel outer shell of the present invention may comprise conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, for instance preserving agents and bactericides, hydrophilic thickener hair conditioners.
  • hydrophilic thickener examples include celluloses as above described.
  • hair conditioner mention can be made of cationic polymers, fatty alcohol, fatty ester, silicones, aminosilicones
  • the hydrophilic thickener in the liquid medium is present in an amount ranging from 0.05 wt. %to 5 wt. %, preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 3 wt. %, more preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 2 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the liquid medium comprises 0.05 wt%to 1 wt%of hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the present invention provides a composition for conditioning the hair comprising, hydrogel capsules suspended in a liquid medium, wherein the capsules comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition:
  • an inner core comprising from 8 wt. %to 25 wt. %of soybean oil
  • a hydrogel outer shell comprising from 0.1 wt. %to 1 wt. %of agar and from 0.05 wt. %to 1 wt. %of hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, and water;
  • liquid medium comprises from 2 wt. %to 40 wt. %of polyol, espically butylene glycol, and from 0.1 wt. %to 2 wt. %of alkylcellulose, especially, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose and water.
  • composition according to the present invention can be prepared by firstly preparing capsules and then suspending the hydrogel capsules in the liquid medium.
  • the capsules can be prepared with a known process.
  • the composition according to the present invention can be prepared as follows:
  • phase (A) for the outer shell is prepared separately to include all ingredients in the outer shell;
  • phase (B) for the inner core is prepared separately to include all ingredients in the core;
  • a medium is prepared separately to include all ingredients in the medium
  • capsules are formed in a cooling base by a dripping process with both phases (A) and (B) ;
  • the capsules formed are cleaned and mixed with the medium so that the capsules are suspended in the medium.
  • hydrogel capsules are well known in the art.
  • the hydrogel capsules can be prepared through phase separation with different surface tensions.
  • athree-flow concentric dripper can be used to prepare hydrogel capsules, the center is for the core phase, the middle layer is for the hydrogel outer shell concentrically wrapped the core phase, the outermost layer is for a gas flow or cooling fluid.
  • composition according to the present invention can be used individually or mixed with cationic hair-treatment system to improve hair conditioning benefits.
  • composition can be done on wet or dry hair.
  • aprocess for conditioning the hair comprising applying the composition as described above onto the hair.
  • the process comprises the step of mixing the composition according to the present invention with a hair composition comprising a cationic conditioner and then applying the mixture obtained onto the hair.
  • the conditioning composition comprising a cationic conditioner is not particularly limited.
  • it can be any commonly used in the art, such as distearyldimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyitrimethylammonium chloride, behentrimontum chloride, cetrimonium chloride oleocetyldimethylhydroxyethylammonium chloride, stearamidopropyldimethyl (myristyl acetate) ammonium chloride, di (C1-C2 alkyl) (C12-C22 alkyl) hydroxy (C1-C2alkyl) ammonium salt, such as dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salt in which the alkyl radical preferably comprises 12 to 24 carbon atoms, propanetallowdiammonium dichloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.
  • composition according to the present invention can be combined with a mask preferably containing one or more cationic conditioner and then put on the hair.
  • compositions according to invention examples (IE. ) 1-3 were prepared with the ingredients listed in Table 2 (the contents are expressed in gram) :
  • the average diameter size can be measured with a Brookhaven type particle sizer based on quasielastic light scattering (QELS) .
  • compositions above were prepared as follows, taking composition of invention example 1 as an example.
  • phase (A) for the outer shell was prepared separately to include water, agar, hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, and black mica;
  • phase (B) for the inner core was prepared separately to include glycine soja (soybean) oil;
  • a liquid medium was prepared separately to include butylene glycol, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, and water;
  • Capsules were formed in a cooling base by a dripping process with both phases (A) and (B) ;
  • phase (B) was transported to the center of a three-flow concentric dripper, the phase (A) was transported to the middle layer of the concentric dripper, a concentric liquid column was formed by the phase (A) , and compressed air was blown out from the outmost layer of the concentric dripper to force the liquid column and the phase (B) to be blown into small capsules and drip into a collection container;
  • Stability of each composition can be assessed based on quick stability tests under extreme conditions, full stability, and shaking stability as follows.
  • the sample is deemed stable if there is no separation between capsules and the medium and no change on organoleptic properties.
  • the sample to be tested was filled in a plastic box, and placed in a shacking plaque during a period of 60 minutes.
  • the samples were open and checked if there is any breakage of the capsules.
  • a white color means a breakage of the capsules due to emulsification between the oil in the inner core and the liquid medium, The test was repeated for 2 times.
  • Half head comparison between each composition of invention examples 1-3 in combination with a hair mask (available as Kerastase Chronologiste Mask from the company L’Oréal) and a commercial product in the market sold under the name Kérastase Perles de caviar Chronologiste by the company Kérastase (which comprises agar beads suspended in water gel) in combination with the same hair mask was carried out by inviting 6 models (women aged 30-50 years old with middle to high damage hair level) to put the composition to be tested on the hair mask, to mix the beads in the mask and then apply the hair mask with the composition to be tested on the head, one half with the composition of invention example to be evaluated, and the other half with the commercial product, and asking hair experts (the salon hairdresser from Kérastase Salon and R&I) to provide feedback on the usage and cosmetic performance.
  • a hair mask available as Kerastase Chronologiste Mask from the company L’Oréal
  • Kérastase which comprises agar beads suspended in water gel
  • compositions of the invention provide an improved conditioning effect over the commercial products.
  • compositions of the invention are easier with the compositions of the invention, particularly with compositions IE. 2 and IE. 3.
  • the resulting inventive compositions after mixing are more uniform with no bead residue, thus rendering easier the application step onto the hair.
  • the resulting inventive mixtures are also easier to rinse.
  • compositions according to the present invention are stable and can provide the hair with conditioning benefits. Meanwhile, the compositions according to the present invention can be applied easily and uniformly on the hair, and be rinsed off easily.

Abstract

It relates to a composition for conditioning the hair comprising hydrogel capsules suspended in a liquid medium, wherein the capsules comprises: a) an inner core comprising at least one oil; and b) a hydrogel outer shell comprising water and at least one polysaccharide thickener, wherein the liquid medium is a hydroalcoholic medium. It also relates to a process for caring for the hair comprising at least a step of applying the composition onto the hair.

Description

COMPOSITION FOR CONDITIONING THE HAIR
TECHNIAL FIELD
The present invention belongs to the field of cosmetic product. In particular, the present invention relates to a composition for conditioning the hair. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for conditioning the hair.
BACKGROUND ART
The appearance and/or condition of keratin fibers are often affected by both extrinsic and intrinsic factors such as aging.
Keratin fibers, especially hair, are constantly exposed to harsh extrinsic conditions, such as sun, chemical damage, e.g., from detergents, bleaching, relaxing, dyeing, and permanent waving, heat, e.g., from hair dryers or curlers, and mechanical stress or wear, e.g., from brushing or grooming activities. In addition, any type of hair can diminish in quality and/or quantity over time by age and/or due to factors such as natural greasiness, sweat, skin cells shedded from the scalp, pollution, dirt, and extreme humidity conditions.
The above-described factors can result in thinning hair and/or harm the visual appearance and the feel of the hair, and lead to lank body and decreased volume.
For example, hair can dry out and lose its shine or color or become frizzy and less manageable under low and high humidity conditions. Under low humidity conditions, hair can dry out and dried-out hair tends to be less shiny and more brittle. Conversely, under high humidity conditions, hair tends to absorb water, causing hair to lose its shape and become unmanageable and unattractive.
Furthermore, hair can lose its desirable attributes due to physical stress on the hair such as brushing and application of heat. As such, these factors generally result in damage to the keratin fibers, either by affecting protective materials on the surface of the hair (the cuticle) , or by altering the hair fiber internally (the cortex) .
Thus, it is highly desirable to have products providing the hair conditioning benefits.
In addition, for products for conditioning the hair, it is also desired that the products are stable over time.
Thus, there is also a need to formulate a cosmetic composition for caring for the hair, which can condition the hair and is stable over time.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
An object of the present invention is thus to develop a composition for conditioning the hair, which can effectively provide the hair conditioning benefits.
Another object of the present invention is thus to develop a composition for conditioning the hair, which is stable over time and easy to use with various types of hair products such as conditioning products.
Thus, according to a first aspect, the present invention provides a composition for conditioning the hair comprising hydrogel capsules suspended in a liquid medium, wherein the capsules comprises:
a) an inner core comprising at least one oil; and
b) a hydrogel outer shell comprising water and at least one polysaccharide thickener,
wherein the liquid medium comprises is a hydroalcoholic medium.
The composition according to the present invention comprises an inner core oil phase, a hydrogel outer shell phase, and a liquid medium phase, thus it is a three-phase system, which is stable under room temperature, 4℃, and 45℃ for at least 2 months.
The composition according to the present invention can provide the hair with conditioning benefits.
In addition, the compositions according to the present invention can be applied easily and uniformly on the hair, and be rinsed off easily.
According to a second aspect, the present invention provides a process for conditioning the hair comprising applying the composition as described above onto the hair.
Other characteristics and advantages of the invention will emerge more clearly on reading the description and the examples that follow.
DETAILD DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
As used herein, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included within this range, in particular in the expressions "between…and…" and "from…to…” .
As used herein, the term “comprising” is to be interpreted as encompassing all specifically mentioned features as well as optional, additional, unspecified ones.
As used herein, the use of the term “comprising” also discloses the embodiment wherein no features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (i.e. “consisting of” ) .
Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the field the present invention belongs to. When the definition of a term in the present description conflicts with the meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the field the present invention belongs to, the definition described herein shall apply.
Unless otherwise specified, all numerical values expressing amount of ingredients and the like used in the description and claims are to be understood as being modified by the term “about” . Accordingly, unless indicated to the contrary, the numerical values and parameters described herein are approximate values which are capable of being changed according to the desired performance obtained as required.
As used herein, the expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more" and may be substituted for it.
According to the first aspect of the present invention, a composition for conditioning the hair comprises hydrogel capsules suspended in a liquid medium, wherein the capsules comprises:
a) an inner core comprising at least one oil; and
b) a hydrogel outer shell comprising water at least one polysaccharide thickener,
wherein the liquid medium is a hydroalcoholic medium.
Preferably, the weight ratio of the capsules to the medium is from 10: 90 to 40: 60, preferably from 20: 80 to 40: 60.
Hydrogel capsules
As used herein, the term hydrogel capsule means beads consisting of an inner core and a hydrogel outer shell that covers and protects the core, wherein the outer shell is hydrogel.
Advantageously, the hydrogel capsules have a particle size of 0.3-15 mm, preferably 1-10 mm, more preferably 2-6 mm.
As used herein, particle size of the hydrogel capsules means the average diameter size thereof.
According to the first aspect, the hydrogel capsules comprise an inner core comprising at least one oil and a hydrogel outer shell comprising at least one polysaccharide thickener.
Inner core comprising at least one oil
According to the first aspect, the hydrogel capsules comprise an inner core comprising at least one oil.
Here, "oil" means a fatty compound or substance which is in the form of a liquid or a paste (non-solid) at room temperature (25℃) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) .
As the oil (s) , those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination thereof. The oil (s) may be volatile or non-volatile, preferably non-volatile.
The oil may be a non-polar oil such as hydrocarbons, silicones, or the like; a polar oil such as esters, fatty alcohols and ethers; or a mixture thereof.
The oil may be oils of plant or animal origin and synthetic oils.
Preferably, the oil is a triglyceride oil.
Preferably, the triglyceride oil has the following formula (I) :
CH 2 (OOCR 1) CH (OOCR 2) CH 2 (OOCR 3) (I)
wherein R 1, R 2 and R 3 are independently chosen from C 6-C 30 alkyl and C 6-C 30 alkenyl.
Advantageously, in formula (I) , R 1, R 2 and R 3 are independently chosen from C 6-C 24 alkyl and C 6-C 24 alkenyl, preferably C 6-C 20 alkyl and C 6-C 20 alkenyl, more preferably C 6-C 14 alkyl and C 6-C 14 alkenyl, more preferably C 6-C 12 alkyl and C 6-C 12 alkenyl, most preferably C 6-C 10 alkyl and C 6-C 10 alkenyl, said alkyl or alkenyl is linear or branched.
In formula (I) , R 1, R 2 and R 3 may be different, or two or all of R 1, R 2 and R 3 may be the same.
Examples of triglyceride oil according to formula (I) are given in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook.
Preferred triglyceride oil according to formula (I) are obtained from carboxylic acids of carbon chain length ranging from C 6 to C 24, preferably from C 6 to C 20, and more preferably from C 6 to C 18, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and glycerol.
In some embodiments, the triglyceride oil according to formula (I) are synthetic.
In some embodiments, the triglyceride according to formula (I) are of plant origin. For example, the plant oils that comprise triglyceride according to formula (I) , or triglyceride according to formula (I) obtained from the plant oils can be used.
Vegetable derived triglyceride oils according to formula (I) are particularly preferred, and specific examples of preferred materials as sources of triglyceride according to formula (I) include peanut oil, sesame oil, avocado oil, coconut oil, cocoa butter oil, almond oil, safflower oil, corn oil, cotton seed oil, olive oil, jojoba oil, palm oil, soybean oil, wheat germ oil, linseed oil, and sunflower seed oil.
Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises a triglyceride oil selected from peanut oil, sesame oil, avocado oil, coconut oil, cocoa butter oil, almond oil, safflower oil, corn oil, cotton seed oil, olive oil, jojoba oil, palm oil, soybean oil, wheat germ oil, linseed oil, sunflower seed oil, and a combination thereof.
More preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises soybean oil.
Advantageously, the oil is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 3 wt. %to 40 wt. %, more preferably from 5 wt. %to 35 wt. %, most preferably from 8 wt. %to 25 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The core may also comprise a fragrance.
The flagrance is not particularly limited.
The skilled in the art can adjust the amount of the flagrance through conventional means.
Hydrogel outer shell comprising water and at least one polysaccharide  thickener
According to the first aspect, the composition according to the invention comprises water and at least one polysaccharide thickener.
Advantageously, the outer shell has a thickness of 0.1-2μm, preferably 0.1-1.5 μm.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “polysaccharides” is intended to mean a polymer constituted of sugar units.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term "sugar unit" is intended to mean an oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compound containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprises at least 4 carbon atoms.
The sugar units may be optionally modified by substitution, and/or by oxidation and/or by dehydration.
The sugar units that may be included in the polysaccharide thickener of the present invention are preferably derived from one or more of the following sugars: glucose, galactose, arabinose, rhamnose, mannose, xylose, fucose, anhydrogalactose, galacturonic acid, glucuronic acid, mannuronic acid, galactose sulfate, anhydrogalactose sulfate and fructose.
Mention may in particular be made, by way of polysaccharides, of native gums such as:
a) tree or shrub exudates, including:
- gum arabic (branched polymer of galactose, arabinose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid) ;
- ghatti gum (polymer derived from arabinose, galactose, mannose, xylose and glucuronic acid) ;
- karaya gum (polymer derived from galacturonic acid, galactose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid) ;
- gum tragacanth (polymer of galacturonic acid, galactose, fucose, xylose and arabinose) ;
b) gums derived from algae, including:
- agar (polymer derived from galactose and anhydrogalactose) ;
- alginates (polymers of mannuronic acid and of glucuronic acid) ;
- carrageenans and furcellerans (polymers of galactose sulfate and of anhydrogalactose sulfate) ;
c) gums derived from seeds or tubers, including:
- guar gum (polymer of mannose and galactose) ;
- locust bean gum (polymer of mannose and galactose) ;
- fenugreek gum (polymer of mannose and galactose) ;
- tamarind gum (polymer of galactose, xylose and glucose) ;
- konjac gum (polymer of glucose and mannose) ;
d) microbial gums, including:
- xanthan gum (polymer of glucose, mannose acetate, mannose/pyruvic acid and glucuronic acid) ;
- gellan gum (polymer of partially acylated glucose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid) ;
- scleroglucan gum (glucose polymer) .
The polysaccharide (s) of the composition according to the invention can also be chosen from mixtures of the polysaccharides above.
These polymers can be physically or chemically modified. As physical treatment, mention may in particular be made of a heat treatment.
Chemical treatments that may be mentioned include esterification, etherification, amidation and oxidation reactions. These treatments make it possible to produce polymers that may especially be non-ionic, anionic or amphoteric.
Preferably, these chemical or physical treatments are applied to guar gums, and locust bean gums.
The non-ionic guar gums that may be used according to the invention may be modified with C1-C6 (poly) hydroxyalkyl groups.
Among the C1-C6 (poly) hydroxyalkyl groups, mention may be made, by way of example, of hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.
These guar gums are well known in the prior art and may be prepared, for example, by reacting corresponding alkene oxides, for instance, propylene oxides, with the guar gum so as to obtain a guar gum modified with hydroxypropyl groups.
The degree of hydroxyalkylation preferably varies from 0.4 to 1.2 and corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present on the guar gum.
Such non-ionic guar gums optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups are sold, for example, under the trade names Jaguar HP8, Jaguar HP60 and Jaguar HP120 by the company Rhodia Chimie.
The cationic guar gum is preferably hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, typically commercially available under the tradename of JAGUAR C 162, from the company Rhodia.
Particularly preferably, the polysaccharide thickener is chosen from:
- agar,
- guars, and
- combinations of these compounds,
these polysaccharide thickeners being optionally modified by a heat treatment, an esterification reaction, an etherification reaction, an amidation reaction or an oxidation reaction,
Even more preferably, the polysaccharide thickener is selected from agar, hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, and a combination thereof.
The polysaccharide thickener can be mineral esters of cellulose (cellulose nitrates, sulfates, phosphates, etc. ) , organic cellulose esters (cellulose monoacetates, triacetates, amidopropionates, acetatebutyrates, acetatepropionates and acetatetrimellitates, etc. ) , and mixed organic/mineral esters of cellulose, such as cellulose acetatebutyrate sulfates and cellulose acetatepropionate sulfates. Among the cellulose ester ethers, mention may be made of hydroxypropylmethylcellulose phthalates and ethylcellulose sulfates.
The polysaccharide thickener can non-ionic cellulose ethers, mention may be made of (C1-C4) alkylcelluloses, such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses (for  example, Ethocel standard 100 Premium from Dow Chemical) ; (poly) hydroxy (C1-C4) alkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses (for example, Natrosol 250 HHR provided by Ashland) and hydroxypropylcelluloses (for example, Klucel EF from Aqualon) ; mixed (poly) hydroxy (C1-C4) alkyl (C1-C4) alkylcelluloses, such as hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses (for example, Methocel E4M from Dow Chemical) , hydroxyethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylethylcelluloses (for example, Bermocoll E 481 FQfrom Akzo Nobel) and hydroxybutylmethylcelluloses.
The polysaccharide thickener can be anionic cellulose ethers, mention may be made of (poly) carboxy (Cl-C4) alkylcelluloses and salts thereof. By way of example, mention may be made of carboxymethylcelluloses, carboxymethylmethylcelluloses (for example Blanose 7M from the company Aqualon) and carboxymethylhydroxyethylcelluloses, and the sodium salts thereof.
The polysaccharide thickener can be cationic cellulose ethers, mention may be made of cationic cellulose derivatives such as cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, and described in particular in patent US 4 131 576, such as (poly) hydroxy (Cl-C4) alkyl celluloses, for instance hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl-or hydroxypropylcelluloses grafted especially with a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt. The commercial products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the names
Figure PCTCN2022090208-appb-000001
L 200 and
Figure PCTCN2022090208-appb-000002
H 100 by the company National Starch.
In a most particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least two distinct polysaccharides such as those mentioned above.
In particular in this preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises a combination of agar, celluloses and guar such as those mentioned above, in particular a combination of agar and cationic hydroxyalkyl guar such as hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride and hydroxyalkyl cellulose such as hydroxypropyl methyl celllulose.
Advantageously, the polysaccharide thickener is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.05 wt. %to 2 wt. %, preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 1.5 wt. %, more preferably from 0.2 wt. %to 1.0 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Advantageously, the outer shell of the capsules comprise from 0.1 wt. %to 2 wt. %of agar and from 0.05 wt. %to 2 wt. %of cationic hydroxyalkylguar, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the present invention.
More advantageously, the outer shell of the capsules comprises from 0.1 wt. %to 1 wt. %of agar and from 0.05 wt. %to 1 wt. %of hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the present invention.
The shell may also comprise a pigment.
The pigment is not particularly limited.
For example, the pigment can be selected from titanium dioxide, zirconium oxide, cerium oxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, alumina, aluminum hydroxide, chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, ferric blue, aluminum powder, copper powder, silver powder, gold powder, barium sulfate, carbon black, mica, and a mixture thereof.
In some embodiments, the outer shell in the composition according to the present invention comprises mica as pigment.
Liquid medium
According to the first aspect, the liquid medium in the composition according to the invention is a hydroalcoholic medium.
In particular, the liquid medium is a hydroalcoholic medium comprising water and monoalcohols and/or polyols, preferably polyol.
The term "polyol" should be understood as meaning, within the meaning of the present disclosure, an organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups. The polyols of the cosmetic composition may be glycols or compounds with numerous hydroxyl groups. In some cases, the one or more polyols is/are selected from the group consisting of C2-C32 polyols. The one or more polyols are liquid at ambient temperature (25℃) . The one or more polyols may have from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 3 to 10 carbon atoms, more preferably from 3 to 8 carbon atoms.
Monoalcohols can be ethanol, propanol, butanol, etc.
Polyols that may be included in the compositions of the present disclosure, in certain instances, include from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1, 3-propanediol, polyethylene glycols, caprylyl glycol, diglycerin, glycerin, or mixtures  thereof. In some cases, the polyol is butylene glycol. In some further cases, the at least one polyol comprises butylene glycol. Additionally, in some cases, the compositions comprise at least butylene glycol, and one or more polyols other than butylene glycol such as propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and/or glycerin.
Non-limiting examples of polyols that may, optionally, be included in the cosmetic include and/or may be chosen from alkanediols such as glycerin, 1, 2, 6-hexanetriol, trimethylolpropane, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentaethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-butene-1, 4-diol, 2-ethyl-1, 3-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2, 4-pentanediol, caprylyl glycol, 1, 2-hexanediol, 1, 2-pentanediol, and 4-methyl-1, 2-pentanediol; glycol ethers such as ethylene glycol monomethyl ether, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether, ethylene glycol monobutyl ether, ethylene glycol monomethyl ether acetate, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-iso-propyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-iso-propyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-n-butyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, 1-methyl-1-methoxybutanol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, propylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, propylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether, propylene glycol mono-iso-propyl ether, dipropylene glycol monomethyl ether, dipropylene glycol monoethyl ether, dipropylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether, dipropylene glycol mono-iso-propyl ether, sorbitol, sorbitan, triacetin, and a mixture thereof.
The one or more polyols may, optionally, be glycols or glycol ethers such as, e.g., monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or ethers thereof such as, e.g., monomethyl ether of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol as well as alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, e.g., monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether of diethylene glycol. In some cases, the one or more polyols may include or are chosen from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, 1, 3-propanediol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerin, and a mixture thereof.
In one or more embodiments, the at least one polyol comprises one or more glycols.
Preferably, the glycols are selected from the group consisting of hexylene glycol, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and combinations thereof.
Even more preferably, the at least one polyol comprises butylene glycol, in particular, 1, 3-butylene glycol. Most preferably, the butylene glycol is produced by biotechnology.
Advantageously, the alcohol (s) , especially the polyol (s) , is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 2 wt. %to 50 wt. %, more preferably from 4 wt. %to 40 wt. %, most preferably from 4 wt. %to 20 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
In some embodiments, the medium comprises 50-80 wt. %of water in the medium, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Adjuvants or additives
The liquid medium or the hydrogel outer shell of the present invention may comprise conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, for instance preserving agents and bactericides, hydrophilic thickener hair conditioners.
As examples of hydrophilic thickener, mention can be made of celluloses as above described.
As hair conditioner, mention can be made of cationic polymers, fatty alcohol, fatty ester, silicones, aminosilicones
If presents, the hydrophilic thickener in the liquid medium is present in an amount ranging from 0.05 wt. %to 5 wt. %, preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 3 wt. %, more preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 2 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, the liquid medium comprises 0.05 wt%to 1 wt%of hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose, relative to the total weight of the composition.
According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention provides a composition for conditioning the hair comprising, hydrogel capsules suspended in a liquid medium, wherein the capsules comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition:
a) an inner core comprising from 8 wt. %to 25 wt. %of soybean oil; and
b) a hydrogel outer shell comprising from 0.1 wt. %to 1 wt. %of agar and from 0.05 wt. %to 1 wt. %of hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, and water;
wherein the liquid medium comprises from 2 wt. %to 40 wt. %of polyol, espically butylene glycol, and from 0.1 wt. %to 2 wt. %of alkylcellulose, especially, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose and water.
Preparation and use
The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by firstly preparing capsules and then suspending the hydrogel capsules in the liquid medium.
The capsules can be prepared with a known process. For example, the composition according to the present invention can be prepared as follows:
1) a phase (A) for the outer shell is prepared separately to include all ingredients in the outer shell;
2) a phase (B) for the inner core is prepared separately to include all ingredients in the core;
3) a medium is prepared separately to include all ingredients in the medium;
4) capsules are formed in a cooling base by a dripping process with both phases (A) and (B) ;
5) the capsules formed are cleaned and mixed with the medium so that the capsules are suspended in the medium.
The process for producing hydrogel capsules are well known in the art. In particular, the hydrogel capsules can be prepared through phase separation with different surface tensions.
For example, athree-flow concentric dripper can be used to prepare hydrogel capsules, the center is for the core phase, the middle layer is for the hydrogel outer shell concentrically wrapped the core phase, the outermost layer is for a gas flow or cooling fluid.
The composition according to the present invention can be used individually or mixed with cationic hair-treatment system to improve hair conditioning benefits.
The use of the composition can be done on wet or dry hair.
According to the second aspect of the present invention, aprocess for conditioning the hair comprising applying the composition as described above onto the hair.
In some embodiments, the process comprises the step of mixing the composition according to the present invention with a hair composition comprising a cationic conditioner and then applying the mixture obtained onto the hair.
The conditioning composition comprising a cationic conditioner is not particularly limited. For example, it can be any commonly used in the art, such as  distearyldimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyitrimethylammonium chloride, behentrimontum chloride, cetrimonium chloride oleocetyldimethylhydroxyethylammonium chloride, stearamidopropyldimethyl (myristyl acetate) ammonium chloride, di (C1-C2 alkyl) (C12-C22 alkyl) hydroxy (C1-C2alkyl) ammonium salt, such as dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salt in which the alkyl radical preferably comprises 12 to 24 carbon atoms, propanetallowdiammonium dichloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.
Furthermore, the composition according to the present invention can be combined with a mask preferably containing one or more cationic conditioner and then put on the hair.
The following examples are given by way of illustration of the present invention and shall not be interpreted as limiting the scope.
EXAMPLES
Main raw materials used, trade names and supplier thereof are listed in Table 1.
Table 1
Figure PCTCN2022090208-appb-000003
Invention Examples 1-3
Compositions according to invention examples (IE. ) 1-3 were prepared with the ingredients listed in Table 2 (the contents are expressed in gram) :
Table 2
Figure PCTCN2022090208-appb-000004
*The average diameter size can be measured with a Brookhaven type 
Figure PCTCN2022090208-appb-000005
particle sizer based on quasielastic light scattering (QELS) .
Preparation procedure:
The compositions above were prepared as follows, taking composition of invention example 1 as an example.
1) a phase (A) for the outer shell was prepared separately to include water, agar, hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, and black mica;
2) a phase (B) for the inner core was prepared separately to include glycine soja (soybean) oil;
3) a liquid medium was prepared separately to include butylene glycol, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, and water;
4) Capsules were formed in a cooling base by a dripping process with both phases (A) and (B) ;
In particular, with syringe pumps, the phase (B) was transported to the center of a three-flow concentric dripper, the phase (A) was transported to the middle layer of the concentric dripper, a concentric liquid column was formed by the phase (A) , and compressed air was blown out from the outmost layer of the concentric dripper to force the liquid column and the phase (B) to be blown into small capsules and drip into a collection container;
5) The capsules formed, which are spherical, were cleaned and mixed with the liquid medium so that the capsules were suspended in the medium.
Evaluation
Stability evaluation and sensorial evaluation were performed on the compositions prepared above.
Stability
Stability of each composition can be assessed based on quick stability tests under extreme conditions, full stability, and shaking stability as follows.
Stability tests:
The following tests were conducted
1. Stability in extreme conditions
· The sample to be tested was placed in the oven at 50℃ for 2 weeks.
· The sample to be tested was placed in the fridge at-10℃ for 24 hours.
2. Full stability
· The samples to be tested were placed in an oven at 45℃, 4℃ and room temperature, respectively, for two months.
After each test, the organoleptic properties Aspect, Color and Odor of the sample were checked.
The sample is deemed stable if there is no separation between capsules and the medium and no change on organoleptic properties.
Shaking stability
The sample to be tested was filled in a plastic box, and placed in a shacking plaque during a period of 60 minutes.
After the test finished, the samples were open and checked if there is any breakage of the capsules. A white color means a breakage of the capsules due to emulsification between the oil in the inner core and the liquid medium, The test was repeated for 2 times.
The results for stability tests are summarized in Table 3.
Table 3
  IE. 2
Stability at extreme conditions Stable
Full stability Stable
Shaking stability No color change
In vivo expert sensorial evaluation
Half head comparison between each composition of invention examples 1-3 in combination with a hair mask (available as Kerastase Chronologiste Mask from the company L’Oréal) and a commercial product in the market sold under the name Kérastase Perles de caviar Chronologiste by the company Kérastase (which comprises agar beads suspended in water gel) in combination with the same hair mask was carried out by inviting 6 models (women aged 30-50 years old with middle to high damage hair level) to put the composition to be tested on the hair mask, to mix the beads in the mask and then apply the hair mask with the composition to be tested on the head, one half with the composition of invention example to be evaluated, and the other half with the commercial product, and asking hair experts (the salon hairdresser from Kérastase Salon and R&I) to provide feedback on the usage and cosmetic performance.
The sensorial evaluation results show that the compositions of the invention provide an improved conditioning effect over the commercial products.
The mixing of the beads with the mask is easier with the compositions of the invention, particularly with compositions IE. 2 and IE. 3.
The resulting inventive compositions after mixing are more uniform with no bead residue, thus rendering easier the application step onto the hair. The resulting inventive mixtures are also easier to rinse.
It can be seen that the compositions according to the present invention are stable and can provide the hair with conditioning benefits. Meanwhile, the compositions according to the present invention can be applied easily and uniformly on the hair, and be rinsed off easily.

Claims (17)

  1. A composition for conditioning the hair comprising hydrogel capsules suspended in a liquid medium, wherein the capsules comprises:
    a) an inner core comprising at least one oil; and
    b) a hydrogel outer shell comprising water and at least one polysaccharide thickener,
    wherein the liquid medium is a hydroalcoholic medium.
  2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the oil is a triglyceride oil with the following formula (I)
    CH 2 (OOCR 1) CH (OOCR 2) CH 2 (OOCR 3)  (I)
    wherein R 1, R 2 and R 3 are independently chosen from C 6-C 30 alkyl and C 6-C 30 alkenyl, preferably, R 1, R 2 and R 3 are independently chosen from C 6-C 20 alkyl and C 6-C 20 alkenyl, more preferably, R 1, R 2 and R 3 are independently chosen from C 6-C 12 alkyl and C 6-C 12 alkenyl, said alkyl or alkenyl is linear or branched,
    preferably the triglyceride is selected from peanut oil, sesame oil, avocado oil, coconut oil, cocoa butter oil, almond oil, safflower oil, corn oil, cotton seed oil, olive oil, jojoba oil, palm oil, soybean oil, wheat germ oil, linseed oil, sunflower seed oil, and a combination thereof.
  3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the oil is present in an amount ranging from 3 wt. %to 40 wt. %, more preferably from 5 wt. %to 35 wt. %, most preferably from 8 wt. %to 25 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  4. Composition according to any of claims 1-3, wherein the sugar units included in the polysaccharide thickener are derived from one or more of the following sugars: glucose, galactose, arabinose, rhamnose, mannose, xylose, fucose, anhydrogalactose, galacturonic acid, glucuronic acid, mannuronic acid, galactose sulfate, anhydrogalactose sulfate and fructose.
  5. Composition according to any of claims 1-4, wherein the polysaccharide thickener is selected from agar, guars, and combinations of these compounds, these polysaccharide gum being optionally modified by a heat treatment, an esterification reaction, an etherification reaction, an amidation reaction or an oxidation reaction,  preferably, the polysaccharide thickener is selected from agar, hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, and a combination thereof.
  6. Composition according to any of claims 1-5, wherein the polysaccharide thickener is selected from
    a) tree or shrub exudates, including: gum arabic; ghatti gum; karaya gum; gum tragacanth;
    b) gums derived from algae, including: agar; alginates; carrageenans and furcellerans;
    c) gums derived from seeds or tubers, including: guar gum; locust bean gum; fenugreek gum; tamarind gum; konjac gum; and
    d) microbial gums, including: xanthan gum; gellan gum; scleroglucan gum,
    and the polysaccharide thickener is optionally physically or chemically modified, preferably modified by a heat treatment, an esterification reaction, an etherification reaction, an amidation reaction or an oxidation reaction.
  7. Composition according to any of claims 1-6, wherein the polysaccharide thickener is present in an amount ranging from 0.05 wt. %to 2 wt. %, preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 1.5 wt. %, more preferably from 0.2 wt. %to 1.0 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  8. Composition according to any of claims 1-7, wherein the hydroalcoholic medium comprises a polyol.
  9. Composition according to claim 8 wherein the polyol has from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, from 3 to 10 carbon atoms, more preferably from 3 to 8carbon atoms, even more preferably, the polyol is selected from hexylene glycol, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerin, and combinations thereof.
  10. Composition according to any of claims 1-9, wherein the polyol is present in an amount ranging from 2 wt. %to 50 wt. %, more preferably from 4 wt. %to 40 wt. %, most preferably from 4 wt. %to 20 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  11. Composition according to any of claims 1-10, further comprising as a hydrophilic thickener in the liquid medium at least one alkylcellulose, preferably  selected from (C1-C4) alkylcelluloses; (poly) hydroxy (C1-C4) alkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses and hydroxypropylcelluloses; mixed (poly) hydroxy (Cl-C4) alkyl (C1-C4) alkylcelluloses, such as hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylethylcelluloses and hydroxybutylmethylcelluloses, and a combination thereof.
  12. Composition according to claim 11, wherein the hydrophilic thickener is present in an amount ranging from 0.05 wt. %to 5 wt. %, preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 3 wt. %, more preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 2 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  13. Composition according to claim 1, comprising hydrogel capsules suspended in a liquid medium, wherein the capsules comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition:
    a) an inner core comprising from 8 wt. %to 25 wt. %of soybean oil; and
    b) an outer shell comprising from 0.1 wt. %to 1 wt. %of agar and from 0.05 wt. %to 1 wt. %of hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, and water;
    wherein the liquid medium comprises from 2 wt. %to 40 wt. %of polyol and from 0.1 wt. %to 2 wt. %alkylcellulose.
  14. Composition according to any of claims 1-13, wherein the hydrogel capsules have a particle size of 0.3-15 mm, preferably 1-10 mm, more preferably 2-6 mm, preferably, the outer shell has a thickness of 0.1-2μm, preferably 0.1-1.5 μm.
  15. Composition according to any of claims 1-14, wherein the weight ratio of the capsules to the medium is from 10: 90 to 40: 60, preferably from 20: 80 to 40: 60.
  16. A process for conditioning the hair comprising applying the composition according to any of claims 1-15 onto the hair.
  17. The process according to claim 16 comprising the step of mixing the composition according to any of claims 1-15 with a hair composition comprising a cationic conditioner and then applying the mixture obtained onto the hair.
PCT/CN2022/090208 2022-04-29 2022-04-29 Composition for conditioning the hair WO2023206341A1 (en)

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FR2205663A FR3136368A1 (en) 2022-04-29 2022-06-13 HAIR CONDITIONING COMPOSITION

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CN104434548A (en) * 2014-12-16 2015-03-25 重庆小丸科贸有限公司 Hydrogel microcapsule with sunscreen effect
US20190224086A1 (en) * 2015-12-30 2019-07-25 International Flavors & Fragrances Inc. Microcapsule compositions with improved deposition
WO2020254370A1 (en) * 2019-06-21 2020-12-24 V. Mane Fils Colored hydrogel materials and method making same
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