WO2023083842A1 - Water-soluble film for topical application - Google Patents

Water-soluble film for topical application Download PDF

Info

Publication number
WO2023083842A1
WO2023083842A1 PCT/EP2022/081219 EP2022081219W WO2023083842A1 WO 2023083842 A1 WO2023083842 A1 WO 2023083842A1 EP 2022081219 W EP2022081219 W EP 2022081219W WO 2023083842 A1 WO2023083842 A1 WO 2023083842A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
composition
film
water
cosmetic
weight
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/EP2022/081219
Other languages
French (fr)
Inventor
Guéne-Gnanh TCHAO
Christa RISSELADA
Emmanuelle Couval
Gaëlle Andre
Charlotte RESMOND
Antoine IDASIAK
Original Assignee
Strand Cosmetics Europe
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Strand Cosmetics Europe filed Critical Strand Cosmetics Europe
Publication of WO2023083842A1 publication Critical patent/WO2023083842A1/en

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0212—Face masks
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/345—Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59—Mixtures
    • A61K2800/592—Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic or dermocosmetic composition in the form of a water-soluble film for topical application, to a kit for formulating a cosmetic or dermocosmetic product comprising such a composition, and to a cosmetic or dermocosmetic which implements such a composition.
  • the skin constitutes a flexible physical barrier that protects the tissues and organs from external aggressions.
  • the skin is resistant to most infections as long as its physical and functional integrity is assured.
  • the skin keeps the inner body environment isolated and limits water loss, while containing body fluids.
  • the main function of the skin is to protect the interior of the body, which is very rich in water, against the external environment.
  • stratum corneum or stratum corneum
  • This outermost thin layer of the epidermis is made up of corneocytes (generally between 5 and 15 layers): these are dead cells that have lost their nucleus and which mainly contain keratins, a very resistant fibrous protein. All of these cells are enclosed in a complex matrix of organized lipids. It is therefore a lipophilic layer, unlike the following layers (viable epidermis and dermis) which are hydrophilic.
  • Cosmetic products containing active agents are intended to improve the condition and/or the function of the skin, due to the properties of these active agents, for example anti-ageing, anti-pollution, or even moisturizing properties.
  • One of the problems with cosmetic products concerns their methods of application to the skin.
  • cosmetic products are traditionally presented in the form of gels or emulsions.
  • a major drawback of these pharmaceutical forms is that the user cannot precisely control the quantity of cosmetic product that he applies to his skin.
  • he generally refers to a user guide which indicates an approximate quantity, and on the other hand, he is content to take a rough volume of product from the bottle, which he applies to his skin, without knowing what precise quantity this volume represents.
  • Masks constitute an alternative presentation of cosmetic products with, however, associated disadvantages: Their homogeneous application remains delicate and their rinsing generally requires a large quantity of water. More recently, disposable masks have been proposed but the presence of a support (fabric, paper, etc.) is not very respectful of the environment, in addition to inducing additional production costs.
  • An object of the invention is to provide a galenic form of cosmetic or dermocosmetic composition which overcomes the disadvantages described above.
  • a composition according to the invention is in the form of a manipulable film, to be applied to the skin, which can be used as a mask then serum or care, or directly as a serum or care.
  • the invention aims in particular to provide such a composition making it possible to make the application of a cosmetic or dermocosmetic product to the skin simpler and quicker, while improving its shelf life.
  • Another object of the invention is to provide a composition which makes it possible to precisely control the quantity of product applied to the skin, without requiring additional manipulation on the part of the user.
  • the invention also aims to provide a composition that is comfortable to use when it is applied to the skin.
  • the invention also aims to implement only constituents of natural origin, and to limit the use of water during cosmetic care, in line with current green and ecological standards and methods.
  • the invention provides a cosmetic or dermocosmetic composition in the form of a water-soluble film for topical application, comprising pullulan or one of its derivatives, xanthan gum or one of its derivatives, and an agent plasticizer advantageously chosen from: glycerin, propylene glycol (1,2-propanediol), 1,3-propanediol, butylene glycol, and pentylene glycol, or their derivatives, even more advantageously glycerin or one of its derivatives .
  • an agent plasticizer advantageously chosen from: glycerin, propylene glycol (1,2-propanediol), 1,3-propanediol, butylene glycol, and pentylene glycol, or their derivatives, even more advantageously glycerin or one of its derivatives .
  • topical application is understood as an application to the surface of the skin, or even of the mucous membranes and of the scalp. This encompasses the different parts of the body, in particular the hands, the forearms, the neck, and preferably the face, including the eye contour.
  • water soluble film refers to a film which yields an aqueous solution without insoluble particles after being suitably mixed with water.
  • an aqueous solution can be obtained by dissolving a film according to the invention of 10 mg in 200 mg of water.
  • the film is a solid film. It has its own structure even without the presence of a support. Such a film is dry or substantially dry in that it contains little or no water, and is intended to be dissolved in water or in an aqueous solution when it is applied to the user's skin.
  • composition of the invention in the form of a water-soluble film makes it possible to precisely control the quantity of product applied to the skin.
  • the user thus achieves a precise and repeatable dosage, overcoming the problem of approximate dosage of state-of-the-art cosmetic products, in particular those in the form of creams or lotions.
  • the contents of the chemical constituents of the water-soluble film are precisely adjusted according to the areas of application. It is therefore easy for the user to always apply the same quantity of product to the same area to be treated.
  • the film according to the invention is a persistent film, that is to say a film that the user leaves on his skin after solubilization and spreading for a certain period of time in order to let it act. It is therefore a non-rinsed product, unlike patches for example, which must be removed from the skin after use.
  • the solubilization of the film according to the invention is carried out in less than one minute.
  • the film is solid, and preferably thin, that is to say with a thickness less than or equal to 1 millimeter.
  • the composition according to the invention contains a low concentration of water, advantageously less than or equal to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, that is to say say to the total weight of the film.
  • This small amount of water makes it possible to limit microbial development, and thus to increase the shelf life of the composition, whether or not the composition contains a preservative.
  • the water concentration in the composition is greater than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • This residual concentration of water in the film results at least in part from water molecules bound to the plasticizer, which do not evaporate during the drying operation described later in connection with the process for preparing a composition according to the invention.
  • derivatives means the substituted forms of the corresponding compounds, in particular those of pullulan, of xanthan gum, and of the plasticizer, particularly at the level of their alcohol functions. These are advantageously esterified derivatives, O-sulfated derivatives, percarboxylated derivatives, crosslinked derivatives or organomineral derivatives based on silicon containing a silanol.
  • the derivatives that can be used are the cosmetically acceptable derivatives.
  • Pullulan or pullulan (INCI name: PULLULAN), is a film-forming agent of natural origin. It has the chemical formula (C3?H6203o)n, and corresponds to the CAS number 9057-02-7.
  • maltotriose units a glucose trisaccharide
  • a-1,4-; a-1,6-glucan The three glucose units that make up maltotriose are connected by an saccharide bond of the a- 1,4 type, while the maltotrioses are connected to each other by saccharide bonds of the a- 1,6 type.
  • pullulan makes it possible to obtain a composition in the form of a film.
  • the pullulan is present in the composition at a concentration of between 5% and 50% by weight, preferably between 10% and 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition excluding water.
  • concentrations makes it possible to form a homogeneous film, i.e. without disparity in chemical nature and mechanical properties over the entire surface of the film.
  • excluding water means the fact that the mass concentration of a constituent of the composition is expressed relative to the composition (or film) except for water. We then speak of a dry film. To do this, we consider that the sum of the concentrations of the constituents of the film, excluding water, is equal to 100%, and we express the concentration of each constituent on the basis of this 100%. Those skilled in the art obviously know how to perform this type of calculation, in particular from the concentrations of the various constituents expressed taking into account water, and vice versa.
  • Xanthan gum (INCI name: XANTHAN GUM) is a thickening and gelling agent. It has the chemical formula C45H49O29, and corresponds to the CAS number 11138-66-2.
  • Xanthan gum has the following structural formula:
  • xanthan gum exhibits an anti-pilling effect with respect to pullulan.
  • Xanthan gum prevents the appearance of solid residues, and thus makes it possible to obtain an aesthetic and comfortable film to use.
  • Xanthan gum also has a gelling effect, and makes it possible to form a gel which improves the texture of the film, making it more pleasant to the touch and therefore more pleasant to handle.
  • the xanthan gum is present in the composition at a concentration of between 5% and 40% by weight, preferably between 10% and 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition excluding water. This range of concentrations makes it possible to optimize the anti-pilling and texturizing properties of the film.
  • the third constituent of a composition according to the invention is a plasticizer.
  • it is a molecule having a short carbon chain, advantageously containing from two to ten carbon atoms, more advantageously from three to five carbon atoms, and at least two alcohol functions, advantageously two or three alcohol functions.
  • the plasticizer is chosen from glycerin, propylene glycol (also called 1,2-propanediol or propane-1,2-diol), 1,3-propanediol (or propane-1, 3-diol), butylene glycol, and pentylene glycol, or their derivatives.
  • the plasticizing agent makes it possible to plasticize the film, thus providing it with mechanical strength while guaranteeing its structural integrity, in particular when the film is removed from its commercial packaging by the user and held in the hand. by the latter during its implementation.
  • the plasticizer also gives the film emollient properties, that is to say softening, softening and moisturizing.
  • the plasticizer is present in the composition at a concentration of between 10% and 60% by weight, preferably between 20% and 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition excluding water.
  • concentrations makes it possible to obtain a film with optimal mechanical properties as well as excellent structural integrity, making the film very resistant to mechanical stress, in particular when it is handled by the user.
  • the plasticizer preferably comprises glycerin or one of its derivatives. Glycerin optimizes the mechanical and emollient properties of the film, mentioned above.
  • Glycerin also known as glycerol (INCI name: GLYCERIN), is a plasticizer. It has the chemical formula C3H8O3, and corresponds to the CAS number 56-81-5.
  • Glycerin has the following structural formula:
  • the film consists of the cosmetic or dermocosmetic composition.
  • the composition is structured in the form of a film, in the absence of any support or additional element on which it could rest, such as a sheet of paper for example.
  • this does not exclude the possibility of positioning the film on a support, in particular for its preparation, packaging and marketing.
  • the user takes the film in hand, in practice between his fingers or by pressing on the end of his fingers, and applied to a determined region of the skin, advantageously of the face, to form a mask.
  • the term “mask” is understood here to mean the solubilized film which covers the determined region of the skin, the latter not necessarily being intended to cover the entire face.
  • Said determined region of the skin, also called the targeted region is moistened, before or after the application of the film. This is advantageously the region around the eyes, for example under the lower eyelid of the eye. However, it can be applied to other areas, including the forehead, cheeks, chin, neck. . .
  • the film corresponds to a cosmetic care unit, and for this purpose contains a determined quantity of pullulan, xanthan gum, and plasticizer, and optionally at least one active ingredient and/or one or more other constituents described in the following.
  • the amount of cosmetic product applied to the skin can therefore be precisely controlled, without the user needing to provide any additional effort.
  • the film When the film is mixed with water, advantageously with agitation (during massage), it disintegrates quickly and completely, without any particular effort on the part of the user.
  • the film also requires little water to fully disintegrate and form the mask.
  • pullulan, xanthan gum, and the chosen plasticizer are natural chemical compounds. This makes it possible not to have recourse to organic synthesis to prepare these constituents, and guarantees the green and natural origin of the composition of the invention.
  • the pullulan/plasticizer mass ratio is between 1/1 and 1/3. This ratio makes it possible to optimize the homogeneity of the film as well as its good mechanical properties.
  • the pullulan/xanthan gum/plasticizer mass ratio is 1/0.3-1.5/1-3.
  • 0.3-1.5 means that the concentration of xanthan gum, relative to the pullulan and the plasticizer, can be chosen from 0.3 to 1.5.
  • the plasticizer with a ratio that can range from 1 to 3. This mass ratio makes it possible to optimize the mechanical and aesthetic properties of the film, described above.
  • the composition also comprises a polysaccharide, called additional polysaccharide, chosen from: a tara gum, a carrageenan, a guar gum, an arabic gum, starch or a derivative hydrolyzed (eg rice or corn starch), tamarind, or mixtures thereof.
  • additional polysaccharide chosen from: a tara gum, a carrageenan, a guar gum, an arabic gum, starch or a derivative hydrolyzed (eg rice or corn starch), tamarind, or mixtures thereof.
  • the composition can therefore comprise pullulan, a xanthan gum, a plasticizing agent and an additional polysaccharide.
  • the additional polysaccharide makes it possible to improve the sensory performance, in particular the feel of the film and of the resulting mask, and to improve the speed of solubilization of the film in water.
  • the additional polysaccharide has a gelling effect, and makes it possible to form a gel which improves the texture of the film, making it more pleasant to the touch and therefore more pleasant to handle.
  • the additional polysaccharide is present in the composition at a concentration of less than or equal to 40% by weight, preferably between 4% and 40% by weight, and more preferably between 4% and 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition excluding water.
  • concentrations makes it possible to optimize the sensory and solubilization properties of the film, described previously.
  • composition may also include excipients, such as rheology modifiers (viscosifiers), gelling agents, preservatives such as methylpropanediol, chlorphenesin or phenoxyethanol (also listed as antimicrobial agents), as well as adjusters pH such as a sodium hydroxide solution (NaOH).
  • excipients such as rheology modifiers (viscosifiers), gelling agents, preservatives such as methylpropanediol, chlorphenesin or phenoxyethanol (also listed as antimicrobial agents), as well as adjusters pH such as a sodium hydroxide solution (NaOH).
  • the composition also comprises the following four constituents:
  • composition according to the invention may comprise the Chronopower plus® formulation, in addition to pullulan, xanthan gum and plasticizer, and optionally the other constituents described above.
  • composition may also comprise at least one active agent exhibiting a cosmetic or dermocosmetic, or even dermatological, effect.
  • active means a molecule or a mixture of molecules having an activity of interest in the context of the invention, namely cosmetic, dermocosmetic, or even dermatological.
  • It may in particular be an anti-ageing, firming, soothing, tightening, anti-pollution, moisturizing, antimicrobial, healing, depigmenting, pro-pigmenting, desquamating, photo-protective, slimming, anti-oxidant, and/or anti-aging active. -seborrheic.
  • the active ingredient can be hydrophilic in nature. It can for example be chosen from hyaluronic acids (moisturizing and anti-ageing actions) or dry plant extracts such as PinoluminTM manufactured by the company MIBELLE (extract of pine trees from the Swiss Alps with antioxidant, soothing and lightening action) or else more DNA (cell regeneration action).
  • hyaluronic acids moistureturizing and anti-ageing actions
  • dry plant extracts such as PinoluminTM manufactured by the company MIBELLE (extract of pine trees from the Swiss Alps with antioxidant, soothing and lightening action) or else more DNA (cell regeneration action).
  • the concentration of hydrophilic active ingredient is preferably between 1% and 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition excluding water, depending on the active ingredient concerned.
  • this or these hydrophilic active agents can be increased thanks to the presence of the Chronopower plus® formulation in the film. Indeed and as already described, this technology makes it possible to trap the active ingredient(s) thanks to the combination of polymers sodium alginate, sodium hyaluronate, arabinogalactan and biosaccharide gum- 1. Their stereochemical organization in solution forms a mesh that traps the active ingredient and gradually releases it onto the skin, thus prolonging the action.
  • the Chronopower plus® formulation When the Chronopower plus® formulation is present in the composition according to the invention, its concentration is preferably between 1% and 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition excluding water, depending on the concentration of the active ingredient concerned. .
  • the active ingredient may be lipophilic in nature. It can for example be chosen from essential oils known for their sanitizing, healing, anti-aging, circulatory properties, etc., such as vegetable oils known for their softening, soothing, moisturizing, anti-aging properties, etc. ..
  • a natural emulsifying agent can be introduced in order to make the two phases miscible, such as Emulpharma® AGC marketed by the company ACETO FCE-INTER' ACTIFS, FluidifeelTM easy marketed by the company SEPPIC, or else EmulmetikTM 320 marketed by LUCAS MEYER COSMETICS for example.
  • the concentration of lipophilic active ingredient is preferably between 1% and 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition excluding water, depending on the active ingredient concerned.
  • the concentration of the emulsifying agent is preferably between 1% and 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition excluding water, depending on its nature and its hydrophilic-lipophilic balance.
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one mineral filler.
  • the mineral fillers are preferably chosen from red, yellow and black iron oxides, such as titanium oxides, zinc oxides and natural nacres. Their presence provides coloring and covering properties for the skin.
  • the concentration of the mineral filler is preferably between 1% and 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition excluding water, depending on the coverage required.
  • Another object of the invention relates to a kit for formulating a cosmetic or dermocosmetic product for topical application.
  • a cosmetic product comes in the form of a cosmetic mask or in the form of a serum or a treatment.
  • the kit comprises at least one cosmetic or dermocosmetic composition in the form of a water-soluble film, as described previously, and at least one aqueous composition.
  • aqueous composition is understood to mean a composition which comprises at least water, advantageously in the majority. It may in particular be only water. Therefore, an aqueous composition is in liquid form.
  • kits and of the method according to the invention which results from the film form of the composition, is that the nature of the cosmetic product obtained after mixing the composition with the aqueous composition is adjustable according to the nature of said composition. watery. The manufacturer and/or the user can thus personalize the cosmetic product according to the application and the effect they wish to obtain.
  • kit is intended for use in the context of a cosmetic or dermocosmetic care process described below, with reference to the diagram in Figure 1.
  • a cosmetic or dermocosmetic composition is provided in the form of a water-soluble film 1, as described above. Such a composition may or may not be part of a kit.
  • the film 1 is applied to a determined region 2 of the skin.
  • the determined region 2 of the skin is a region of the face 3.
  • it may be a region located under the lower eyelid or more generally the contour of the eye.
  • the determined region 2 of the skin is then massaged, according to a step b) referenced as such in FIG. 1, to solubilize the film 1 previously moistened with an aqueous composition, and form a mask 4.
  • the massage illustrated by the arrows 5 in FIG. 1, further makes it possible to spread the mask over the whole of said region.
  • said region 2 is massaged, the region and/or the film being moistened beforehand with an aqueous composition 6, to solubilize the film and form a cosmetic or dermocosmetic product, advantageously a mask 4.
  • the aqueous composition may or may not form part of a kit.
  • the film 1 can be moistened beforehand according to two different embodiments.
  • said region is moistened by application of the aqueous composition.
  • This step is captioned ao) in Figure 1.
  • the aqueous composition 6 is shown schematically by a drop of water.
  • the film 1 is moistened by contact with the aqueous composition 6, during its application to the skin according to step a).
  • the film 1 applied to said region is moistened by application of the aqueous composition 6.
  • the film is therefore first applied on the determined region of the skin, then moistened by applying the aqueous composition thereto.
  • This step which is between steps a) and b), is not illustrated in Figure 1.
  • the method may also comprise, after step b) of massaging, a step c) of moistening the cosmetic mask 4 by applying an aqueous composition, identical to or different from the aqueous composition 6 described previously, and a step d) massaging the moistened mask 4 to spread the latter over a surface 7 greater than that of the determined region 2 of the skin.
  • step c) of wetting the mask is carried out at least 10 minutes after step b) of massaging, preferably 15 minutes later.
  • This step is captioned co) in Figure 1. This ensures that the mask has dried and penetrated well before rewetting it.
  • compositions C1 to C5 are prepared by mixing the corresponding constituents.
  • Compositions C1 to C5 are detailed in Tables 1 to 5 below.
  • compositions C1 to C5 are given "without water”, that is to say that the concentrations of the constituents are given relative to the film obtained at the end of the process, considering that the latter is perfectly dry, that is to say say devoid of water. However and in practice, the film obtained after drying still contains water.
  • the various constituents are first dissolved and/or dispersed in water.
  • a sample 8 is taken from each of the solutions or dispersions and applied to paper 9. The result is illustrated in the photograph in Figure 2.
  • the samples are dried in an oven. The drying is carried out at a temperature between 30° C. and 90° C., for a duration of at least 3 hours. For each sample, a water-soluble film 1 is obtained after drying, as shown in the photograph of FIG. 3.
  • the drying made it possible to eliminate a large quantity of water, and to form the film 1.
  • the film 1 is in the form of a round, flat pellet.
  • the shape of the film can however vary according to the nature of the composition, the drying parameters, the drying support or even the post-treatment applied to the film. It is for example possible to obtain a film in relief, in particular a curved film.
  • Citric acid and sodium hydroxide make it possible to adjust the pH between 5.5 and 7.5 in order to be in the appropriate range of use for a cosmetic product.
  • Phenethylalcohol is a preservative.
  • Unipure Red LC320 is a coloring agent.
  • Table 3 Composition C3 - containing Chronopower plus® and a water-soluble active ingredient (sodium hyaluronate)
  • Table 4 Composition C4 - containing Chronopower plus® and a lipophilic active ingredient (Flower essential oil)
  • GEOGARD 221 is a preservative.
  • Table 5 Composition C5 - containing Chronopower plus® and mineral fillers (oxides)
  • Phenethylalcohol is the INCI name for phenethylenic alcohol
  • compositions C1 to C5 disintegrate almost instantaneously after hydration and massage. It is best to start by moistening the skin with water, then lay the film on the skin and then re-wet over it. After a few seconds of massage, the film dissolves, spreads and penetrates the skin.
  • Said films require a small amount of water for their instantaneous dissolution. At least 20 times the weight of the film is needed in water to dissolve it by massaging it into the skin. For example, a film weighing 20 mg requires approximately 400 mg of water to disintegrate.
  • compositions C1 to C5 lead to the production of very thin films.
  • the thickness increases mainly depending on the mineral filler in case it is present. Otherwise, the thickness is generally between 60 and 130 ⁇ m for composition C2 with Chronopower plus® and without active ingredient, for example.
  • the films based on compositions C1 to C5 have a very fast dissolution time with a determined minimum quantity of water.
  • the films generally disintegrate in less than 1 minute, even in less than 30 seconds for a person familiar with the films and the gestures of implementation.
  • compositions C1 to C5 retain their physical integrity when they are handled by the user. They have a dry, non-sticky, lint-free finish.

Landscapes

  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Emergency Medicine (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic or dermocosmetic composition in the form of a water-soluble film (1) for topical application, comprising pullulan or a derivative thereof, xanthan gum or a derivative thereof, and a plasticizing agent that is advantageously selected from among: glycerin, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, butylene glycol and pentylene glycol, or derivatives thereof, even more advantageously glycerin or a derivative thereof.

Description

FILM HYDROSOLUBLE POUR APPLICATION TOPIQUE WATER SOLUBLE FILM FOR TOPICAL APPLICATION
Domaine technique de l’invention Technical field of the invention
La présente invention se rapporte à une composition cosmétique ou dermocosmétique se présentant sous la forme d’un film hydrosoluble pour application topique, à un kit de formulation d’un produit cosmétique ou dermocosmétique comprenant une telle composition, et à un procédé de soin cosmétique ou dermocosmétique qui met en œuvre une telle composition. The present invention relates to a cosmetic or dermocosmetic composition in the form of a water-soluble film for topical application, to a kit for formulating a cosmetic or dermocosmetic product comprising such a composition, and to a cosmetic or dermocosmetic which implements such a composition.
Arrière-plan technologique Technology background
La peau constitue une barrière physique souple qui protège les tissus et les organes des agressions extérieures. La peau est résistante à la plupart des infections tant que son intégrité physique et fonctionnelle est assurée. The skin constitutes a flexible physical barrier that protects the tissues and organs from external aggressions. The skin is resistant to most infections as long as its physical and functional integrity is assured.
La peau permet de maintenir le milieu corporel intérieur isolé et limite les pertes d’eau, tout en contenant les fluides corporels. The skin keeps the inner body environment isolated and limits water loss, while containing body fluids.
Ainsi, la fonction principale de la peau est de protéger l’intérieur du corps, très riche en eau, contre l’ environnement extérieur. La fonction barrière de la couche cornée (ou stratum corneum) a été démontrée dans les aimées 40. Cette couche fine la plus externe de l’épiderme est constituée de cornéocytes (en général entre 5 et 15 couches) : ce sont des cellules mortes qui ont perdu leur noyau et qui contiennent principalement des kératines, protéine fibreuse très résistante. L’ensemble de ces cellules est enserré dans une matrice complexe de lipides organisés. Il s’agit donc d’une couche lipophile, au contraire des couches suivantes (épiderme viable et derme) qui elles, sont hydrophiles. Thus, the main function of the skin is to protect the interior of the body, which is very rich in water, against the external environment. The barrier function of the stratum corneum (or stratum corneum) has been demonstrated in the 40s. This outermost thin layer of the epidermis is made up of corneocytes (generally between 5 and 15 layers): these are dead cells that have lost their nucleus and which mainly contain keratins, a very resistant fibrous protein. All of these cells are enclosed in a complex matrix of organized lipids. It is therefore a lipophilic layer, unlike the following layers (viable epidermis and dermis) which are hydrophilic.
Les produits cosmétiques contenant des actifs ont pour but d’améliorer l’état et/ou la fonction de la peau, en raison des propriétés de ces actifs, par exemple anti-âge, anti-pollution, ou encore hydratantes. Une des problématiques des produits cosmétiques concerne leurs modalités d’application sur la peau. Cosmetic products containing active agents are intended to improve the condition and/or the function of the skin, due to the properties of these active agents, for example anti-ageing, anti-pollution, or even moisturizing properties. One of the problems with cosmetic products concerns their methods of application to the skin.
Plus précisément, les produits cosmétiques se présentent classiquement sous la forme de gels ou d’émulsions. More specifically, cosmetic products are traditionally presented in the form of gels or emulsions.
Un inconvénient majeur de ces formes galéniques est que l’utilisateur ne peut pas contrôler précisément la quantité de produit cosmétique qu’il applique sur sa peau. D’une part, il se réfère généralement à une notice d’utilisation qui indique une quantité approximative, et d’autre part, il se contente de prélever du flacon un volume grossier de produit, qu’il applique sur sa peau, sans savoir quelle quantité précise ce volume représente. A major drawback of these pharmaceutical forms is that the user cannot precisely control the quantity of cosmetic product that he applies to his skin. On the one hand, he generally refers to a user guide which indicates an approximate quantity, and on the other hand, he is content to take a rough volume of product from the bottle, which he applies to his skin, without knowing what precise quantity this volume represents.
Les masques constituent une présentation alternative des produits cosmétiques avec toutefois des inconvénients associés : Leur application homogène reste délicate et leur rinçage nécessite généralement une grande quantité d’eau. Plus récemment, des masques jetables ont été proposés mais la présence d’un support (tissu, papier, ...) est peu respectueuse de l’environnement, en plus d’induire des coûts de production supplémentaires. Masks constitute an alternative presentation of cosmetic products with, however, associated disadvantages: Their homogeneous application remains delicate and their rinsing generally requires a large quantity of water. More recently, disposable masks have been proposed but the presence of a support (fabric, paper, etc.) is not very respectful of the environment, in addition to inducing additional production costs.
Description de l’invention Description of the invention
Un but de l’invention est de proposer une forme galénique de composition cosmétique ou dermocosmétique qui surmonte les inconvénients décrits précédemment. Ainsi, une composition selon l’invention se présente sous la forme d’un film manipulable, à appliquer sur la peau, qui peut être utilisé en tant que masque puis sérum ou soin, ou directement en tant que sérum ou soin. An object of the invention is to provide a galenic form of cosmetic or dermocosmetic composition which overcomes the disadvantages described above. Thus, a composition according to the invention is in the form of a manipulable film, to be applied to the skin, which can be used as a mask then serum or care, or directly as a serum or care.
L’invention vise en particulier à fournir une telle composition permettant de rendre plus simple et plus rapide l’application d’un produit cosmétique ou dermocosmétique sur la peau, tout en améliorant sa durée de conservation. Un autre but de l’invention est de fournir une composition permettant de contrôler avec précision la quantité de produit appliquée sur la peau, sans nécessiter de manipulation additionnelle de la part de l’utilisateur. The invention aims in particular to provide such a composition making it possible to make the application of a cosmetic or dermocosmetic product to the skin simpler and quicker, while improving its shelf life. Another object of the invention is to provide a composition which makes it possible to precisely control the quantity of product applied to the skin, without requiring additional manipulation on the part of the user.
L’invention vise en outre à fournir une composition confortable d’utilisation lors de son application sur la peau. The invention also aims to provide a composition that is comfortable to use when it is applied to the skin.
L’invention vise en outre à mettre en œuvre uniquement des constituants d’origine naturelle, et à limiter l’utilisation d’eau lors des soins cosmétiques, en phase avec les normes et modalités vertes et écologiques actuelles. The invention also aims to implement only constituents of natural origin, and to limit the use of water during cosmetic care, in line with current green and ecological standards and methods.
A cette fin, l’invention propose une composition cosmétique ou dermocosmétique se présentant sous la forme d’un film hydrosoluble pour application topique, comprenant du pullulan ou un de ses dérivés, de la gomme de xanthane ou un de ses dérivés, et un agent plastifiant avantageusement choisi parmi : la glycérine, le propylène glycol (1,2-propanediol), le 1,3 -propanediol, le butylène glycol, et le pentylène glycol, ou leurs dérivés, encore plus avantageusement de la glycérine ou un de ses dérivés. To this end, the invention provides a cosmetic or dermocosmetic composition in the form of a water-soluble film for topical application, comprising pullulan or one of its derivatives, xanthan gum or one of its derivatives, and an agent plasticizer advantageously chosen from: glycerin, propylene glycol (1,2-propanediol), 1,3-propanediol, butylene glycol, and pentylene glycol, or their derivatives, even more advantageously glycerin or one of its derivatives .
Au sens de l’invention, l’application topique s’entend comme une application à la surface de la peau, voire des muqueuses et du cuir chevelu. Ceci englobe les différentes parties du corps notamment les mains, les avant-bras, le cou, et de préférence le visage, y compris le contour des yeux. Within the meaning of the invention, topical application is understood as an application to the surface of the skin, or even of the mucous membranes and of the scalp. This encompasses the different parts of the body, in particular the hands, the forearms, the neck, and preferably the face, including the eye contour.
Le terme « film hydro soluble » fait référence à un film qui donne une solution aqueuse sans particules insolubles après avoir été mélangé de manière appropriée avec de l’eau. Typiquement, une solution aqueuse peut être obtenue par dissolution d’un film selon l’invention de 10 mg dans 200 mg d’eau. The term “water soluble film” refers to a film which yields an aqueous solution without insoluble particles after being suitably mixed with water. Typically, an aqueous solution can be obtained by dissolving a film according to the invention of 10 mg in 200 mg of water.
Le film est un film solide. Il présente une structure propre même sans la présence d’un support. Un tel film est sec ou sensiblement sec en ce qu’il contient peu ou pas d’eau, et est destiné à être solubilisé dans de l’eau ou dans une solution aqueuse lors de son application sur la peau de l’utilisateur. The film is a solid film. It has its own structure even without the presence of a support. Such a film is dry or substantially dry in that it contains little or no water, and is intended to be dissolved in water or in an aqueous solution when it is applied to the user's skin.
La formulation de la composition de l’invention sous la forme d’un film hydrosoluble permet de contrôler avec précision la quantité de produit appliquée sur la peau. L’utilisateur réalise ainsi un dosage précis et répétable palliant le problème de dosage approximatif des produits cosmétiques de l’état de l’art, notamment ceux qui se présentent sous la forme de crèmes ou de lotions. The formulation of the composition of the invention in the form of a water-soluble film makes it possible to precisely control the quantity of product applied to the skin. The user thus achieves a precise and repeatable dosage, overcoming the problem of approximate dosage of state-of-the-art cosmetic products, in particular those in the form of creams or lotions.
De manière avantageuse, les teneurs des constituants chimiques du film hydrosoluble sont ajustées de façon précise en fonction des zones d’application. Il est donc aisé pour l’utilisateur d’appliquer toujours la même quantité de produit sur la même zone à traiter. Advantageously, the contents of the chemical constituents of the water-soluble film are precisely adjusted according to the areas of application. It is therefore easy for the user to always apply the same quantity of product to the same area to be treated.
En outre, le film selon l’invention est un film persistant, c’est-à-dire un film que l’utilisateur laisse sur sa peau après solubilisation et étalement pendant une certaine durée afin de le laisser agir. Il s’agit donc d’un produit non rincé, contrairement aux patchs par exemple qu’il est nécessaire de retirer de la peau après utilisation. In addition, the film according to the invention is a persistent film, that is to say a film that the user leaves on his skin after solubilization and spreading for a certain period of time in order to let it act. It is therefore a non-rinsed product, unlike patches for example, which must be removed from the skin after use.
Avantageusement, la solubilisation du film selon l’invention est réalisée en moins d’une minute. Advantageously, the solubilization of the film according to the invention is carried out in less than one minute.
Selon l’invention, le film est solide, et de préférence fin c’est-à-dire d’une épaisseur inférieure ou égale à 1 millimètre. According to the invention, the film is solid, and preferably thin, that is to say with a thickness less than or equal to 1 millimeter.
La composition selon l’invention, c’est-à-dire le film hydrosoluble, contient une faible concentration d’eau, avantageusement inférieure ou égale à 25% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition, c’est-à-dire au poids total du film. Cette faible quantité d’eau permet de limiter le développement microbien, et ainsi d’augmenter la durée de conservation de la composition, et ce, que la composition contienne ou non un agent conservateur. De préférence, la concentration en eau dans la composition est supérieure ou égale à 5% en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition. Cette concentration résiduelle d’eau dans le film résulte au moins en partie de molécules d’eau liées à l’agent plastifiant, qui ne s’évaporent pas lors de l’opération de séchage décrite ultérieurement en lien avec le procédé de préparation d’une composition selon l’invention. The composition according to the invention, that is to say the water-soluble film, contains a low concentration of water, advantageously less than or equal to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, that is to say say to the total weight of the film. This small amount of water makes it possible to limit microbial development, and thus to increase the shelf life of the composition, whether or not the composition contains a preservative. Preferably, the water concentration in the composition is greater than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. This residual concentration of water in the film results at least in part from water molecules bound to the plasticizer, which do not evaporate during the drying operation described later in connection with the process for preparing a composition according to the invention.
Au sens de l’invention, on entend par « dérivés » les formes substituées des composés correspondant, notamment celles du pullulan, de la gomme de xanthane, et de l’agent plastifiant, tout particulièrement au niveau de leurs fonctions alcool. Il s’agit avantageusement des dérivés estérifiés, des dérivés O-sulfatés, des dérivés percarboxylés, des dérivés réticulés ou des dérivés organominéraux à base de silicium contenant un silanol. Within the meaning of the invention, the term "derivatives" means the substituted forms of the corresponding compounds, in particular those of pullulan, of xanthan gum, and of the plasticizer, particularly at the level of their alcohol functions. These are advantageously esterified derivatives, O-sulfated derivatives, percarboxylated derivatives, crosslinked derivatives or organomineral derivatives based on silicon containing a silanol.
Au sens de l’invention, les dérivés utilisables sont les dérivés cosmétiquement acceptables. Within the meaning of the invention, the derivatives that can be used are the cosmetically acceptable derivatives.
Le pullulan, ou pullulane (nom INCI : PULLULAN), est un agent filmogène d’origine naturelle. Il présente la formule chimique (C3?H6203o)n, et correspond au numéro CAS 9057-02-7. Pullulan, or pullulan (INCI name: PULLULAN), is a film-forming agent of natural origin. It has the chemical formula (C3?H6203o)n, and corresponds to the CAS number 9057-02-7.
Il s’agit d’un sucre complexe produit à partir d’amidon par le champignon Aureobasidium pullulans, qui appartient à la famille des polysaccharides. Il est constitué d’unités de maltotriose (un triholoside de glucose), et est aussi connu comme l’a- 1,4- ; a-l,6-glucane. Les trois unités de glucose qui composent le maltotriose sont reliés par une liaison osidique du type a- 1,4, tandis que les maltotrioses sont connectés entre eux par des liaisons osidiques du type a- 1,6. It is a complex sugar produced from starch by the fungus Aureobasidium pullulans, which belongs to the polysaccharide family. It is made up of maltotriose units (a glucose trisaccharide), and is also known as a-1,4-; a-1,6-glucan. The three glucose units that make up maltotriose are connected by an saccharide bond of the a- 1,4 type, while the maltotrioses are connected to each other by saccharide bonds of the a- 1,6 type.
Le pullulan présente la formule développée suivante :
Figure imgf000007_0001
Pullulan has the following structural formula:
Figure imgf000007_0001
Dans le cadre de l’invention, le pullulan permet d’obtenir une composition sous la forme d’un film. In the context of the invention, pullulan makes it possible to obtain a composition in the form of a film.
De préférence, le pullulan est présent dans la composition à une concentration comprise entre 5% et 50% en poids, de préférence entre 10% et 40% en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition hors eau. Cette plage de concentrations permet de former un film homogène, c’est-à-dire sans disparité de nature chimique et de propriétés mécaniques sur toute la surface du film. Preferably, the pullulan is present in the composition at a concentration of between 5% and 50% by weight, preferably between 10% and 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition excluding water. This range of concentrations makes it possible to form a homogeneous film, i.e. without disparity in chemical nature and mechanical properties over the entire surface of the film.
Dans le cadre de l’invention, on entend par « hors eau » le fait que la concentration massique d’un constituant de la composition est exprimée par rapport à la composition (ou film) exceptée l’eau. On parle alors de film sec. Pour ce faire, on considère que la somme des concentrations des constituants du film, en excluant l’eau, est égale à 100%, et on exprime la concentration de chaque constituant sur la base de ces 100%. L’homme du métier sait bien évidemment comment effectuer ce type de calcul, notamment à partir des concentrations des différents constituants exprimés en tenant compte de l’eau, et vice versa. In the context of the invention, the term "excluding water" means the fact that the mass concentration of a constituent of the composition is expressed relative to the composition (or film) except for water. We then speak of a dry film. To do this, we consider that the sum of the concentrations of the constituents of the film, excluding water, is equal to 100%, and we express the concentration of each constituent on the basis of this 100%. Those skilled in the art obviously know how to perform this type of calculation, in particular from the concentrations of the various constituents expressed taking into account water, and vice versa.
La gomme de xanthane (nom INCI : XANTHAN GUM) est un agent épaississant et gélifiant. Elle présente la formule chimique C45H49O29, et correspond au numéro CAS 11138-66-2. Xanthan gum (INCI name: XANTHAN GUM) is a thickening and gelling agent. It has the chemical formula C45H49O29, and corresponds to the CAS number 11138-66-2.
La gomme de xanthane présente la formule développée suivante : Xanthan gum has the following structural formula:
Figure imgf000008_0001
Figure imgf000008_0001
Dans le cadre de l’invention, la gomme de xanthane présente un effet anti-peluchage à l’égard du pullulan. In the context of the invention, xanthan gum exhibits an anti-pilling effect with respect to pullulan.
En effet, lors de sa mise en œuvre, le pullulan est susceptible de former des résidus solides. Ces résidus, couramment appelés peluches, n’empêchent ni la formation du film ni son utilisation, mais dégradent son aspect et son confort d’utilisation. Ils sont désagréables au toucher, et restent dans la main de l’utilisateur lorsque celui-ci manipule le film, ce qui n’est pas souhaitable. Indeed, during its implementation, pullulan is likely to form solid residues. These residues, commonly called fluff, do not prevent the formation of the film or its use, but degrade its appearance and its comfort of use. They are unpleasant to the touch, and remain in the hand of the user when the latter handles the film, which is not desirable.
La gomme de xanthane empêche l’apparition des résidus solides, et permet ainsi d’obtenir un film esthétique et confortable d’utilisation. Xanthan gum prevents the appearance of solid residues, and thus makes it possible to obtain an aesthetic and comfortable film to use.
La gomme de xanthane présente en outre un effet gélifiant, et permet de former un gel qui améliore la texture du film, le rendant plus agréable au toucher et donc plus agréable à manipuler. Xanthan gum also has a gelling effect, and makes it possible to form a gel which improves the texture of the film, making it more pleasant to the touch and therefore more pleasant to handle.
De préférence, la gomme de xanthane est présente dans la composition à une concentration comprise entre 5% et 40% en poids, de préférence entre 10% et 30% en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition hors eau. Cette gamme de concentrations permet d’optimiser les propriétés d’ anti-peluchage et de texturation du film. Preferably, the xanthan gum is present in the composition at a concentration of between 5% and 40% by weight, preferably between 10% and 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition excluding water. This range of concentrations makes it possible to optimize the anti-pilling and texturizing properties of the film.
Le troisième constituant d’une composition selon l’invention est un agent plastifiant. Préférablement, il s’agit d’une molécule présentant une chaîne carbonée courte, contenant avantageusement de deux à dix atomes de carbone, plus avantageusement de trois à cinq atomes de carbone, et au moins deux fonctions alcool, avantageusement deux ou trois fonctions alcool. The third constituent of a composition according to the invention is a plasticizer. Preferably, it is a molecule having a short carbon chain, advantageously containing from two to ten carbon atoms, more advantageously from three to five carbon atoms, and at least two alcohol functions, advantageously two or three alcohol functions.
Selon un mode de réalisation particulier, l’agent plastifiant est choisi parmi la glycérine, le propylène glycol (également appelé 1,2-propanediol ou propane- 1,2- diol), le 1,3 -propanediol (ou propane- 1,3 -diol), le butylène glycol, et le pentylène glycol, ou leurs dérivés. According to a particular embodiment, the plasticizer is chosen from glycerin, propylene glycol (also called 1,2-propanediol or propane-1,2-diol), 1,3-propanediol (or propane-1, 3-diol), butylene glycol, and pentylene glycol, or their derivatives.
Dans le cadre de l’invention, l’agent plastifiant permet de plastifier le film, lui apportant ainsi une tenue mécanique tout en garantissant son intégrité structurelle, en particulier lorsque le film est retiré de son emballage commercial par l’utilisateur et tenu en main par ce dernier lors de sa mise en œuvre. In the context of the invention, the plasticizing agent makes it possible to plasticize the film, thus providing it with mechanical strength while guaranteeing its structural integrity, in particular when the film is removed from its commercial packaging by the user and held in the hand. by the latter during its implementation.
L’agent plastifiant confère en outre au film des propriétés émollientes, c’est-à-dire adoucissantes, assouplissantes, et hydratantes. The plasticizer also gives the film emollient properties, that is to say softening, softening and moisturizing.
De préférence, l’agent plastifiant est présent dans la composition à une concentration comprise entre 10% et 60% en poids, de préférence entre 20% et 40% en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition hors eau. Cette gamme de concentrations permet d’obtenir un film présentant des propriétés mécaniques optimales ainsi qu’une excellente intégrité structurelle, rendant le film très résistant aux contraintes mécaniques, notamment lorsque celui-ci est manipulé par l’utilisateur. Preferably, the plasticizer is present in the composition at a concentration of between 10% and 60% by weight, preferably between 20% and 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition excluding water. This range of concentrations makes it possible to obtain a film with optimal mechanical properties as well as excellent structural integrity, making the film very resistant to mechanical stress, in particular when it is handled by the user.
L’agent plastifiant comprend de préférence de la glycérine ou un de ses dérivés. La glycérine permet d’optimiser les propriétés mécaniques et émollientes du film, mentionnées précédemment. The plasticizer preferably comprises glycerin or one of its derivatives. Glycerin optimizes the mechanical and emollient properties of the film, mentioned above.
La glycérine, dite aussi glycérol (nom INCI : GLYCERIN), est un agent plastifiant. Elle présente la formule chimique C3H8O3, et correspond au numéro CAS 56-81-5. Glycerin, also known as glycerol (INCI name: GLYCERIN), is a plasticizer. It has the chemical formula C3H8O3, and corresponds to the CAS number 56-81-5.
La glycérine présente la formule développée suivante :
Figure imgf000009_0001
La combinaison du pullulan, de la gomme de xanthane, et d’un agent plastifiant avantageusement choisi parmi la glycérine, le propylène glycol, le 1,3 -propanediol, le butylène glycol, et le pentylène glycol, permet d’obtenir un film homogène, confortable à l’utilisation, qui ne laisse pas de résidus solides à l’usage, qui présente une bonne tenue mécanique et conserve son intégrité structurelle lorsqu’il est manipulé par l’utilisateur, avant humidification, avec un fini sec et non-collant. Glycerin has the following structural formula:
Figure imgf000009_0001
The combination of pullulan, xanthan gum, and a plasticizer advantageously chosen from glycerin, propylene glycol, 1,3 -propanediol, butylene glycol, and pentylene glycol, makes it possible to obtain a homogeneous film , comfortable to use, which does not leave solid residues with use, which exhibits good mechanical strength and retains its structural integrity when handled by the user, before wetting, with a dry and non- sticky.
Au sens de l’invention, le film est constitué de la composition cosmétique ou dermocosmétique. En d’autres termes, la composition est structurée sous la forme d’un film, en l’absence de tout support ou élément additionnel sur laquelle celle-ci pourrait prendre appui, tel qu’une feuille de papier par exemple. Bien évidemment, ceci n’exclut pas la possibilité de positionner le film sur un support, notamment pour sa préparation, son conditionnement et sa commercialisation. Within the meaning of the invention, the film consists of the cosmetic or dermocosmetic composition. In other words, the composition is structured in the form of a film, in the absence of any support or additional element on which it could rest, such as a sheet of paper for example. Of course, this does not exclude the possibility of positioning the film on a support, in particular for its preparation, packaging and marketing.
Comme il sera décrit plus en détail dans la suite de la description, pour réaliser le soin cosmétique ou dermocosmétique, l’utilisateur prend le film en main, en pratique entre ses doigts ou en appui sur l’extrémité de ses doigts, et l’applique sur une région déterminée de la peau, avantageusement du visage, pour former un masque. Le terme « masque » s’entend ici au sens du film solubilisé qui recouvre la région déterminée de la peau, celui-ci n’étant pas nécessairement destiné à recouvrir tout le visage. Ladite région déterminée de la peau, également appelée région ciblée, est humidifiée, préalablement ou postérieurement à l’application du film. Il s’agit avantageusement de la région située autour des yeux, par exemple sous la paupière inférieure de l’œil. Il peut toutefois être appliqué sur d’autres zones, notamment sur le front, les joues, le menton, le cou. . . As will be described in more detail later in the description, to perform the cosmetic or dermocosmetic treatment, the user takes the film in hand, in practice between his fingers or by pressing on the end of his fingers, and applied to a determined region of the skin, advantageously of the face, to form a mask. The term “mask” is understood here to mean the solubilized film which covers the determined region of the skin, the latter not necessarily being intended to cover the entire face. Said determined region of the skin, also called the targeted region, is moistened, before or after the application of the film. This is advantageously the region around the eyes, for example under the lower eyelid of the eye. However, it can be applied to other areas, including the forehead, cheeks, chin, neck. . .
Après massage du film humidifié sur la peau, celui-ci forme un masque qui s’étend aisément sur la région ciblée, et laisse un fini sec et non collant. After massaging the moistened film onto the skin, it forms a mask that spreads easily over the targeted area, and leaves a dry, non-sticky finish.
Le film correspond à une unité de soin cosmétique, et contient à cet effet une quantité déterminée de pullulan, de gomme de xanthane, et d’agent plastifiant, et éventuellement d’au moins un actif et/ou un ou plusieurs autres constituants décrits dans la suite. La quantité de produit cosmétique appliquée sur la peau peut donc être précisément contrôlée, et ce sans que l’utilisateur n’ait besoin de fournir un quelconque effort additionnel. The film corresponds to a cosmetic care unit, and for this purpose contains a determined quantity of pullulan, xanthan gum, and plasticizer, and optionally at least one active ingredient and/or one or more other constituents described in the following. The amount of cosmetic product applied to the skin can therefore be precisely controlled, without the user needing to provide any additional effort.
Lorsque le film est mélangé avec de l’eau, avantageusement sous agitation (lors du massage), il se délite rapidement et entièrement, sans effort particulier de la part de l’utilisateur. Le film nécessite en outre peu d’eau pour se déliter entièrement et former le masque. When the film is mixed with water, advantageously with agitation (during massage), it disintegrates quickly and completely, without any particular effort on the part of the user. The film also requires little water to fully disintegrate and form the mask.
A noter que l’utilisation d’un volume supérieur mais modéré d’eau permet de transformer ledit film ou masque en sérum ou soin qui peut être étalé sur une plus grande surface. Note that the use of a higher but moderate volume of water makes it possible to transform said film or mask into a serum or treatment that can be spread over a larger surface.
Par ailleurs, le pullulan, la gomme de xanthane, et l’agent plastifiant choisi sont des composés chimiques naturels. Ceci permet de ne pas avoir recours à de la synthèse organique pour préparer ces constituants, et garantit l’origine verte et naturelle de la composition de l’invention. In addition, pullulan, xanthan gum, and the chosen plasticizer are natural chemical compounds. This makes it possible not to have recourse to organic synthesis to prepare these constituents, and guarantees the green and natural origin of the composition of the invention.
De préférence, le rapport massique pullulan / agent plastifiant est compris entre 1 / 1 et 1 / 3. Ce rapport permet d’optimiser l’homogénéité du film ainsi que ses bonnes propriétés mécaniques. Preferably, the pullulan/plasticizer mass ratio is between 1/1 and 1/3. This ratio makes it possible to optimize the homogeneity of the film as well as its good mechanical properties.
De préférence, le rapport massique pullulan / gomme de xanthane / agent plastifiant est 1 / 0,3- 1,5 / 1-3. Dans ce rapport, 0,3- 1,5 signifie que la concentration en gomme de xanthane, relativement au pullulan et à l’agent plastifiant, peut être choisie de 0,3 à 1,5. Il en est de même pour l’agent plastifiant, avec un rapport pouvant aller de 1 à 3. Ce rapport massique permet d’optimiser les propriétés mécaniques et esthétiques du film, décrites précédemment. Preferably, the pullulan/xanthan gum/plasticizer mass ratio is 1/0.3-1.5/1-3. In this ratio, 0.3-1.5 means that the concentration of xanthan gum, relative to the pullulan and the plasticizer, can be chosen from 0.3 to 1.5. The same is true for the plasticizer, with a ratio that can range from 1 to 3. This mass ratio makes it possible to optimize the mechanical and aesthetic properties of the film, described above.
Selon un mode de réalisation particulier, la composition comprend en outre un polysaccharide, dit polysaccharide additionnel, choisi parmi : une gomme tara, une carraghénane, une gomme guar, une gomme arabique, de l’amidon ou un dérivé hydrolysé (par exemple de l’amidon de riz ou de maïs), du tamarin, ou leurs mélanges. According to a particular embodiment, the composition also comprises a polysaccharide, called additional polysaccharide, chosen from: a tara gum, a carrageenan, a guar gum, an arabic gum, starch or a derivative hydrolyzed (eg rice or corn starch), tamarind, or mixtures thereof.
La composition peut donc comprendre du pullulan, une gomme de xanthane, un agent plastifiant et un polysaccharide additionnel. The composition can therefore comprise pullulan, a xanthan gum, a plasticizing agent and an additional polysaccharide.
Dans le cadre de l’invention, le polysaccharide additionnel permet d’améliorer les performances sensorielles, notamment le toucher du film et du masque qui en résulte, et d’améliorer la vitesse de solubilisation du film dans l’eau. In the context of the invention, the additional polysaccharide makes it possible to improve the sensory performance, in particular the feel of the film and of the resulting mask, and to improve the speed of solubilization of the film in water.
Avantageusement, le polysaccharide additionnel présente un effet gélifiant, et permet de former un gel qui améliore la texture du film, le rendant plus agréable au toucher et donc plus agréable à manipuler. Advantageously, the additional polysaccharide has a gelling effect, and makes it possible to form a gel which improves the texture of the film, making it more pleasant to the touch and therefore more pleasant to handle.
De préférence, le polysaccharide additionnel est présent dans la composition à une concentration inférieure ou égale à 40% en poids, de préférence comprise entre 4% et 40% en poids, et plus préférablement entre 4% et 20% en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition hors eau. Cette gamme de concentrations permet d’optimiser les propriétés sensorielles et de solubilisation du film, décrites précédemment. Preferably, the additional polysaccharide is present in the composition at a concentration of less than or equal to 40% by weight, preferably between 4% and 40% by weight, and more preferably between 4% and 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition excluding water. This range of concentrations makes it possible to optimize the sensory and solubilization properties of the film, described previously.
La composition peut également comprendre des excipients, tels que des modificateurs de rhéologie (agents viscosifiants), des gélifiants, des agents conservateurs tels que le méthylpropanediol, la chlorphénésine ou le phénoxyéthanol (également listés en tant qu’ agents antimicrobiens), ainsi que des ajusteurs de pH tels qu’une solution de soude (NaOH). The composition may also include excipients, such as rheology modifiers (viscosifiers), gelling agents, preservatives such as methylpropanediol, chlorphenesin or phenoxyethanol (also listed as antimicrobial agents), as well as adjusters pH such as a sodium hydroxide solution (NaOH).
Selon un mode de réalisation particulier, la composition comprend en outre les quatre constituants suivants : According to a particular embodiment, the composition also comprises the following four constituents:
- de l’acide hyaluronique, un de ses sels ou dérivés, - hyaluronic acid, one of its salts or derivatives,
- de l’acide alginique, un de ses sels ou dérivés, - alginic acid, one of its salts or derivatives,
- de 1’ arabinogalactan, et - arabinogalactan, and
- du biosaccharide gum-1. Une telle formulation, assortie des différentes concentrations de ses quatre polymères constitutifs, est décrite dans le document FR 3 095 345 pour ses propriétés hydratantes intrinsèques et sa capacité à piéger et relarguer progressivement des actifs. Elle est commercialisée sous la dénomination Chronopower plus® (Strand Cosmetics Europe). Ainsi, la composition selon l’invention peut comprendre la formulation Chronopower plus®, en plus du pullulan, de la gomme de xanthane et de l’agent plastifiant, et éventuellement des autres constituants décrits précédemment. - biosaccharide gum-1. Such a formulation, together with different concentrations of its four constituent polymers, is described in document FR 3 095 345 for its intrinsic moisturizing properties and its ability to trap and gradually release active agents. It is marketed under the name Chronopower plus® (Strand Cosmetics Europe). Thus, the composition according to the invention may comprise the Chronopower plus® formulation, in addition to pullulan, xanthan gum and plasticizer, and optionally the other constituents described above.
La composition peut comprendre en outre au moins un actif présentant un effet cosmétique ou dermocosmétique, voire dermatologique. The composition may also comprise at least one active agent exhibiting a cosmetic or dermocosmetic, or even dermatological, effect.
On entend par « actif » une molécule ou un mélange de molécules ayant une activité d’intérêt dans le cadre de l’invention, à savoir cosmétique, dermocosmétique , voire dermatologique. The term “active” means a molecule or a mixture of molecules having an activity of interest in the context of the invention, namely cosmetic, dermocosmetic, or even dermatological.
Il peut notamment s’agir d’un actif anti-âge, fermeté, apaisant, tenseur, antipollution, hydratant, antimicrobien, cicatrisant, dépigmentant, pro-pigmentant, desquamant, photo-protecteur, amincissant, anti-oxydant, et/ou anti-séborrhéique. It may in particular be an anti-ageing, firming, soothing, tightening, anti-pollution, moisturizing, antimicrobial, healing, depigmenting, pro-pigmenting, desquamating, photo-protective, slimming, anti-oxidant, and/or anti-aging active. -seborrheic.
L’actif peut être de nature hydrophile. Il peut par exemple être choisi parmi les acides hyaluroniques (actions hydratante et anti-âge) ou des extraits végétaux secs comme Pinolumin™ fabriqué par la société MIBELLE (extrait de pins des Alpes suisses avec action anti-oxydante, apaisante et éclaircissante) ou bien encore de l’ADN (action de régénération cellulaire). The active ingredient can be hydrophilic in nature. It can for example be chosen from hyaluronic acids (moisturizing and anti-ageing actions) or dry plant extracts such as Pinolumin™ manufactured by the company MIBELLE (extract of pine trees from the Swiss Alps with antioxidant, soothing and lightening action) or else more DNA (cell regeneration action).
Classiquement, la concentration en actif hydrophile est de préférence comprise entre 1% et 30% en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition hors eau, selon l’actif concerné. Conventionally, the concentration of hydrophilic active ingredient is preferably between 1% and 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition excluding water, depending on the active ingredient concerned.
L’activité de ce ou ces actifs hydrophiles peut être augmentée grâce à la présence de la formulation Chronopower plus® dans le film. En effet et comme déjà décrit, cette technologie permet d’entrapper le ou les actifs grâce à l’association des polymères alginate de sodium, hyaluronate de sodium, arabinogalactan et biosaccharide gum- 1. Leur organisation stéréochimique en solution forme un maillage qui emprisonne l’actif et le restitue progressivement sur la peau, permettant ainsi de prolonger l’action. The activity of this or these hydrophilic active agents can be increased thanks to the presence of the Chronopower plus® formulation in the film. Indeed and as already described, this technology makes it possible to trap the active ingredient(s) thanks to the combination of polymers sodium alginate, sodium hyaluronate, arabinogalactan and biosaccharide gum- 1. Their stereochemical organization in solution forms a mesh that traps the active ingredient and gradually releases it onto the skin, thus prolonging the action.
Lorsque la formulation Chronopower plus® est présente dans la composition selon l’invention, sa concentration est de préférence comprise entre 1% et 30% en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition hors eau, selon la concentration de l’actif concerné. When the Chronopower plus® formulation is present in the composition according to the invention, its concentration is preferably between 1% and 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition excluding water, depending on the concentration of the active ingredient concerned. .
L’actif peut être de nature lipophile. Il peut par exemple être choisi parmi les huiles essentielles reconnues pour leurs propriétés aseptisantes, cicatrisantes, anti-âge, circulatoires, etc..., telles que les huiles végétales reconnues pour leurs propriétés adoucissantes, apaisantes, hydratantes, anti-âge, etc... Dans ce cas, un agent émulsionnant naturel peut être introduit afin de rendre miscibles les deux phases, tel que l’Emulpharma® AGC commercialisé par la société ACETO FCE- INTER’ ACTIFS, Fluidifeel™ easy commercialisé par la société SEPPIC, ou bien Emulmetik™ 320 commercialisé par la société LUCAS MEYER COSMETICS par exemple. The active ingredient may be lipophilic in nature. It can for example be chosen from essential oils known for their sanitizing, healing, anti-aging, circulatory properties, etc., such as vegetable oils known for their softening, soothing, moisturizing, anti-aging properties, etc. .. In this case, a natural emulsifying agent can be introduced in order to make the two phases miscible, such as Emulpharma® AGC marketed by the company ACETO FCE-INTER' ACTIFS, Fluidifeel™ easy marketed by the company SEPPIC, or else Emulmetik™ 320 marketed by LUCAS MEYER COSMETICS for example.
Dans ce cas, la concentration en actif lipophile est de préférence comprise entre 1% et 30% en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition hors eau, selon l’actif concerné. La concentration de l’agent émulsionnant est de préférence comprise entre 1% et 50% en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition hors eau, selon sa nature et sa balance hydrophile-lipophile. In this case, the concentration of lipophilic active ingredient is preferably between 1% and 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition excluding water, depending on the active ingredient concerned. The concentration of the emulsifying agent is preferably between 1% and 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition excluding water, depending on its nature and its hydrophilic-lipophilic balance.
La composition selon l’invention peut comprendre en outre au moins une charge minérale. The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one mineral filler.
Les charges minérales sont de préférence choisies parmi les oxydes de fer rouge, jaune et noir, tels que les oxydes de titane, les oxydes de zinc et les nacres naturelles. Leur présence apporte des propriétés colorantes et couvrantes pour la peau. La concentration de la charge minérale est de préférence comprise entre 1% et 70% en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition hors eau, selon la couvrance exigée. The mineral fillers are preferably chosen from red, yellow and black iron oxides, such as titanium oxides, zinc oxides and natural nacres. Their presence provides coloring and covering properties for the skin. The concentration of the mineral filler is preferably between 1% and 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition excluding water, depending on the coverage required.
Un autre objet de l’invention concerne un kit de formulation d’un produit cosmétique ou dermocosmétique pour application topique. Un tel produit cosmétique se présente sous la forme d’un masque cosmétique ou sous la forme d’un sérum ou d’un soin. Another object of the invention relates to a kit for formulating a cosmetic or dermocosmetic product for topical application. Such a cosmetic product comes in the form of a cosmetic mask or in the form of a serum or a treatment.
Le kit comprend au moins une composition cosmétique ou dermocosmétique sous la forme d’un film hydrosoluble, telle que décrite précédemment, et au moins une composition aqueuse. The kit comprises at least one cosmetic or dermocosmetic composition in the form of a water-soluble film, as described previously, and at least one aqueous composition.
On entend par « composition aqueuse » une composition qui comprend au moins de l’eau, avantageusement majoritaire. Il peut en particulier s’agir uniquement d’eau. Par conséquent, une composition aqueuse se présente sous forme liquide. The term “aqueous composition” is understood to mean a composition which comprises at least water, advantageously in the majority. It may in particular be only water. Therefore, an aqueous composition is in liquid form.
Un avantage du kit et du procédé selon l’invention, qui résulte de la forme en film de la composition, est que la nature du produit cosmétique obtenu après mélange de la composition avec la composition aqueuse est ajustable en fonction de la nature de ladite composition aqueuse. Le fabricant et/ou l’utilisateur peuvent ainsi personnaliser le produit cosmétique en fonction de l’application et de l’effet qu’ils souhaitent obtenir. One advantage of the kit and of the method according to the invention, which results from the film form of the composition, is that the nature of the cosmetic product obtained after mixing the composition with the aqueous composition is adjustable according to the nature of said composition. watery. The manufacturer and/or the user can thus personalize the cosmetic product according to the application and the effect they wish to obtain.
Le kit est destiné à être utilisé dans le cadre d’un procédé de soin cosmétique ou dermocosmétique décrit ci-après, en référence au schéma de la figure 1. The kit is intended for use in the context of a cosmetic or dermocosmetic care process described below, with reference to the diagram in Figure 1.
On fournit une composition cosmétique ou dermocosmétique sous la forme d’un film 1 hydrosoluble, telle que décrite précédemment. Une telle composition peut faire partie ou non d’un kit. A cosmetic or dermocosmetic composition is provided in the form of a water-soluble film 1, as described above. Such a composition may or may not be part of a kit.
Selon une étape a), référencée comme telle sur la figure 1, on applique le film 1 sur une région 2 déterminée de la peau. De préférence, la région 2 déterminée de la peau est une région du visage 3. Par exemple, il peut s’agir d’une région située sous la paupière inférieure ou plus généralement du contour de l’œil. According to a step a), referenced as such in FIG. 1, the film 1 is applied to a determined region 2 of the skin. Preferably, the determined region 2 of the skin is a region of the face 3. For example, it may be a region located under the lower eyelid or more generally the contour of the eye.
On vient alors masser la région 2 déterminée de la peau, selon une étape b) référencée comme telle sur la figure 1, pour solubiliser le film 1 préalablement humidifié avec une composition aqueuse, et former un masque 4. Le massage, illustré par les flèches 5 sur la figure 1, permet en outre d’étaler le masque sur l’ensemble de ladite région. The determined region 2 of the skin is then massaged, according to a step b) referenced as such in FIG. 1, to solubilize the film 1 previously moistened with an aqueous composition, and form a mask 4. The massage, illustrated by the arrows 5 in FIG. 1, further makes it possible to spread the mask over the whole of said region.
Autrement dit, on effectue un massage de ladite région 2, la région et/ou le film étant préalablement humidifié avec une composition aqueuse 6, pour solubiliser le film et former un produit cosmétique ou dermocosmétique, avantageusement un masque 4. In other words, said region 2 is massaged, the region and/or the film being moistened beforehand with an aqueous composition 6, to solubilize the film and form a cosmetic or dermocosmetic product, advantageously a mask 4.
La composition aqueuse peut faire partie ou non d’un kit. The aqueous composition may or may not form part of a kit.
Le film 1 peut être préalablement humidifié selon deux modes de réalisation différents. The film 1 can be moistened beforehand according to two different embodiments.
Selon un premier mode de réalisation, préalablement à l’application du film sur la région 2 déterminée de la peau selon l’étape a), on humidifie ladite région par application de la composition aqueuse. Cette étape est légendée ao) sur la figure 1. Sur cette même figure, la composition aqueuse 6 est schématisée par une goutte d’eau. Ainsi, le film 1 est humidifié par contact avec la composition aqueuse 6, lors de son application sur la peau selon l’étape a). According to a first embodiment, prior to the application of the film to the determined region 2 of the skin according to step a), said region is moistened by application of the aqueous composition. This step is captioned ao) in Figure 1. In this same figure, the aqueous composition 6 is shown schematically by a drop of water. Thus, the film 1 is moistened by contact with the aqueous composition 6, during its application to the skin according to step a).
Selon un deuxième mode de réalisation, préalablement au massage de la région 2 déterminée de la peau selon l’étape b), on humidifie le film 1 appliqué sur ladite région par application de la composition aqueuse 6. Le film est donc d’abord appliqué sur la région déterminée de la peau, puis humidifié par application de la composition aqueuse sur celui-ci. Cette étape, qui se situe entre les étapes a) et b), n’est pas illustrée sur la figure 1. Ces deux modes de réalisation peuvent être combinés, afin d’humidifier le film plusieurs fois. According to a second embodiment, prior to the massage of the determined region 2 of the skin according to step b), the film 1 applied to said region is moistened by application of the aqueous composition 6. The film is therefore first applied on the determined region of the skin, then moistened by applying the aqueous composition thereto. This step, which is between steps a) and b), is not illustrated in Figure 1. These two embodiments can be combined, in order to moisten the film several times.
Le procédé peut en outre comprendre, postérieurement à l’étape b) de massage, une étape c) d’humidification du masque 4 cosmétique par application d’une composition aqueuse, identique ou différente de la composition aqueuse 6 décrite précédemment, et une étape d) de massage du masque 4 humidifié pour étaler celui- ci sur une surface 7 supérieure à celle de la région 2 déterminée de la peau. The method may also comprise, after step b) of massaging, a step c) of moistening the cosmetic mask 4 by applying an aqueous composition, identical to or different from the aqueous composition 6 described previously, and a step d) massaging the moistened mask 4 to spread the latter over a surface 7 greater than that of the determined region 2 of the skin.
De préférence, l’étape c) d’humidification du masque est réalisée au moins 10 minutes après l’étape b) de massage, de préférence 15 minutes après. Cette étape est légendée co) sur la figure 1. Ceci permet de s’assurer que le masque a bien séché et pénétré avant de le réhumidifier. Preferably, step c) of wetting the mask is carried out at least 10 minutes after step b) of massaging, preferably 15 minutes later. This step is captioned co) in Figure 1. This ensures that the mask has dried and penetrated well before rewetting it.
Exemples de réalisation de l’invention Examples of embodiments of the invention
On prépare plusieurs compositions cosmétiques Cl à C5 en mélangeant les constituants correspondants. Les compositions Cl à C5 sont détaillées dans les tableaux 1 à 5 ci-après. Several cosmetic compositions C1 to C5 are prepared by mixing the corresponding constituents. Compositions C1 to C5 are detailed in Tables 1 to 5 below.
Les compositions Cl à C5 sont données « hors eau », c’est-à-dire que les concentrations des constituants sont données relativement au film obtenu en fin de procédé, en considérant que ce dernier est parfaitement sec, c’est-à-dire dépourvu d’eau. Toutefois et en pratique, le film obtenu après séchage contient encore de l’eau. The compositions C1 to C5 are given "without water", that is to say that the concentrations of the constituents are given relative to the film obtained at the end of the process, considering that the latter is perfectly dry, that is to say say devoid of water. However and in practice, the film obtained after drying still contains water.
Les différents constituants sont d’abord mis en solution et/ou dispersés dans l’eau. The various constituents are first dissolved and/or dispersed in water.
On prélève un échantillon 8 de chacune des solutions ou dispersions que l’on applique sur du papier 9. Le résultat est illustré sur la photographie de la figure 2. A sample 8 is taken from each of the solutions or dispersions and applied to paper 9. The result is illustrated in the photograph in Figure 2.
On met les échantillons à sécher dans une étuve. Le séchage est réalisé à une température comprise entre 30°C et 90°C, pour une durée d’au moins 3 heures. Pour chaque échantillon, on obtient après séchage un film 1 hydrosoluble tel qu’illustré sur la photographie de la figure 3. The samples are dried in an oven. The drying is carried out at a temperature between 30° C. and 90° C., for a duration of at least 3 hours. For each sample, a water-soluble film 1 is obtained after drying, as shown in the photograph of FIG. 3.
Comme on peut le voir par passage de la figure 2 à la figure 3, le séchage a permis d’éliminer une grande quantité d’eau, et de former le film 1. Sur la figure 3, le film 1 se présente sous la forme d’une pastille ronde et plane. La forme du film peut cependant varier selon la nature de la composition, les paramètres de séchage, le support de séchage ou encore le post-traitement apporté au film. On peut par exemple obtenir un film en relief, notamment un film bombé.
Figure imgf000018_0001
Tableau 1 : Composition Cl As can be seen by passing from FIG. 2 to FIG. 3, the drying made it possible to eliminate a large quantity of water, and to form the film 1. In FIG. 3, the film 1 is in the form of a round, flat pellet. The shape of the film can however vary according to the nature of the composition, the drying parameters, the drying support or even the post-treatment applied to the film. It is for example possible to obtain a film in relief, in particular a curved film.
Figure imgf000018_0001
Table 1: Composition Cl
L’acide citrique et l’hydroxyde de sodium permettent d’ajuster le pH entre 5,5 et 7,5 afin d’être dans la gamme d’utilisation adaptée d’un produit cosmétique. Citric acid and sodium hydroxide make it possible to adjust the pH between 5.5 and 7.5 in order to be in the appropriate range of use for a cosmetic product.
Le « phenethylalcohol » est un agent conservateur. “Phenethylalcohol” is a preservative.
L’Unipure Red LC320 est un agent colorant. Unipure Red LC320 is a coloring agent.
Figure imgf000019_0001
Figure imgf000019_0001
Tableau 2 : Composition C2 - contenant du Chronopower plus® Table 2: Composition C2 - containing Chronopower plus®
Figure imgf000020_0001
Figure imgf000020_0001
Tableau 3 : Composition C3 - contenant du Chronopower plus® et un actif hydrosoluble (Hyaluronate de sodium) Table 3: Composition C3 - containing Chronopower plus® and a water-soluble active ingredient (sodium hyaluronate)
Figure imgf000021_0001
Figure imgf000021_0001
Tableau 4 : Composition C4 - contenant du Chronopower plus® et un actif lipophile (Huile essentielle de Fleur) Table 4: Composition C4 - containing Chronopower plus® and a lipophilic active ingredient (Flower essential oil)
Le « GEOGARD 221 » est un agent conservateur.
Figure imgf000021_0002
Tableau 5 : Composition C5 - contenant du Chronopower plus® et des charges minérales (Oxydes) “GEOGARD 221” is a preservative.
Figure imgf000021_0002
Table 5: Composition C5 - containing Chronopower plus® and mineral fillers (oxides)
Dans les tableaux précédents, les constituants sont désignés avec leur nom INCI. En particulier : In the preceding tables, the constituents are designated with their INCI name. Especially :
- Phenethylalcohol est le nom INCI de l’alcool phénéthylénique, - Phenethylalcohol is the INCI name for phenethylenic alcohol,
- Sodium Hydroxide Solution est le nom INCI de l’hydroxyde de sodium (soude),- Sodium Hydroxide Solution is the INCI name for sodium hydroxide (soda),
- Arabie gum est le nom INCI de la gomme arabique. - Arabia gum is the INCI name for gum arabic.
Les films à base des compositions Cl à C5 se délitent quasi-instantanément après hydratation et massage. Il est préférable de commencer par humidifier la peau avec de l’eau, ensuite déposer le film sur la peau et puis réhumidifier par-dessus. Après quelques secondes de massage, le film se dissout, s’étale et pénètre dans la peau. The films based on compositions C1 to C5 disintegrate almost instantaneously after hydration and massage. It is best to start by moistening the skin with water, then lay the film on the skin and then re-wet over it. After a few seconds of massage, the film dissolves, spreads and penetrates the skin.
Lesdits films nécessitent une faible quantité d’eau à leur dissolution instantanée. Au minimum, 20 fois le poids du film est nécessaire en eau pour le dissoudre par massage sur la peau. Par exemple, un film pesant 20 mg nécessite environ 400 mg d’eau pour se déliter. Said films require a small amount of water for their instantaneous dissolution. At least 20 times the weight of the film is needed in water to dissolve it by massaging it into the skin. For example, a film weighing 20 mg requires approximately 400 mg of water to disintegrate.
Les compositions Cl à C5 conduisent à l’obtention de films très fins. L’épaisseur augmente principalement en fonction de la charge minérale dans le cas où elle est présente. Dans le cas contraire, l’épaisseur est généralement comprise entre 60 et 130 pm pour la composition C2 avec du Chronopower plus® et sans actif, par exemple. Compositions C1 to C5 lead to the production of very thin films. The thickness increases mainly depending on the mineral filler in case it is present. Otherwise, the thickness is generally between 60 and 130 μm for composition C2 with Chronopower plus® and without active ingredient, for example.
Par ailleurs, les films à base des compositions Cl à C5 présentent un temps de dissolution très rapide avec une quantité d’eau minimale déterminée. Les films se délitent généralement en moins de 1 minute, voire en moins de 30 secondes pour une personne familière avec les films et la gestuelle de mise en œuvre. Furthermore, the films based on compositions C1 to C5 have a very fast dissolution time with a determined minimum quantity of water. The films generally disintegrate in less than 1 minute, even in less than 30 seconds for a person familiar with the films and the gestures of implementation.
Enfin, l’ensemble des films des compositions Cl à C5 conservent leur intégrité physique lorsqu’ils sont manipulés par l’utilisateur. Ils ont un fini sec et non collant, ne peluchent pas. Finally, all of the films of compositions C1 to C5 retain their physical integrity when they are handled by the user. They have a dry, non-sticky, lint-free finish.

Claims

22 REVENDICATIONS 22 CLAIMS
1. Composition cosmétique ou dermocosmétique se présentant sous la forme d’un film (1) hydrosoluble pour application topique, comprenant du pullulan ou un de ses dérivés, de la gomme de xanthane ou un de ses dérivés, et un agent plastifiant, avantageusement choisi parmi : la glycérine, le propylène glycol, le 1,3-propanediol, le butylène glycol, et le pentylène glycol, encore plus avantageusement de la glycérine. 1. Cosmetic or dermocosmetic composition in the form of a water-soluble film (1) for topical application, comprising pullulan or one of its derivatives, xanthan gum or one of its derivatives, and a plasticizer, advantageously chosen from: glycerin, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, butylene glycol, and pentylene glycol, even more advantageously glycerin.
2. Composition selon la revendication 1, dans laquelle le pullulan est présent à une concentration comprise entre 5% et 50% en poids, de préférence entre 10% et 40% en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition hors eau. 2. Composition according to claim 1, in which the pullulan is present at a concentration of between 5% and 50% by weight, preferably between 10% and 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition excluding water.
3. Composition selon la revendication 1 ou 2, dans laquelle la gomme de xanthane est présente à une concentration comprise entre 5% et 40% en poids, de préférence entre 10% et 30% en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition hors eau. 3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, in which the xanthan gum is present at a concentration of between 5% and 40% by weight, preferably between 10% and 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition out of water.
4. Composition selon l’une quelconque des revendications précédentes, dans laquelle l’agent plastifiant est présent à une concentration comprise entre 10% et 60% en poids, de préférence entre 20% et 40% en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition hors eau. 4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the plasticizer is present at a concentration of between 10% and 60% by weight, preferably between 20% and 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition out of water.
5. Composition selon l’une quelconque des revendications précédentes, dans laquelle le rapport massique pullulan / gomme de xanthane / agent plastifiant est 1 70,3-1,5 / 1-3. 5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the mass ratio pullulan / xanthan gum / plasticizer is 1 70.3-1.5 / 1-3.
6. Composition selon l’une quelconque des revendications précédentes, comprenant en outre un polysaccharide choisi parmi : une gomme tara, une carraghénane, une gomme guar, une gomme arabique, de l’amidon de riz, de l’amidon ou un dérivé hydrolysé, du tamarin, ou leurs mélanges. Composition selon l’une quelconque des revendications précédentes, comprenant en outre au moins un actif. Kit de formulation d’un produit cosmétique ou dermocosmétique, comprenant : 6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising a polysaccharide chosen from: a tara gum, a carrageenan, guar gum, gum arabic, rice starch, hydrolyzed starch or derivative, tamarind, or mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, additionally comprising at least one active ingredient. Kit for formulating a cosmetic or dermocosmetic product, comprising:
- au moins une composition cosmétique ou dermocosmétique se présentant sous la forme d’un film (1) hydrosoluble selon l’une quelconque des revendications 1 à 7, - at least one cosmetic or dermocosmetic composition in the form of a water-soluble film (1) according to any one of claims 1 to 7,
- au moins une composition aqueuse (6). Procédé de soin cosmétique ou dermocosmétique à l’aide d’une composition selon l’une quelconque des revendications 1 à 7 ou d’un kit selon la revendication 8, comprenant les étapes suivantes : - at least one aqueous composition (6). Cosmetic or dermocosmetic care process using a composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 7 or a kit according to Claim 8, comprising the following steps:
- application du film (1) sur une région (2) déterminée de la peau, - application of the film (1) to a determined region (2) of the skin,
- massage de ladite région (2), la région et/ou le film étant préalablement humidifié avec une composition aqueuse (6), pour solubiliser le film et former un produit cosmétique ou dermocosmétique, avantageusement un masque (4). Procédé selon la revendication 9, comprenant en outre les étapes suivantes :- massage of said region (2), the region and/or the film being moistened beforehand with an aqueous composition (6), to solubilize the film and form a cosmetic or dermocosmetic product, advantageously a mask (4). A method according to claim 9, further comprising the following steps:
- humidification du masque (4) par application d’une composition aqueuse,- moistening the mask (4) by applying an aqueous composition,
- massage du masque (4) humidifié pour étaler celui-ci sur une surface (7) supérieure à celle de la région (2) déterminée de la peau. Procédé selon la revendication 10, dans lequel l’étape d’humidification du masque (4) est réalisée au moins 10 minutes après l’étape de massage, de préférence 15 minutes après. Procédé selon l’une quelconque des revendications 9 à 11, dans lequel la région (2) déterminée de la peau est une région du visage (3). - massage of the moistened mask (4) to spread it over a surface (7) greater than that of the determined region (2) of the skin. Method according to claim 10, in which the step of moistening the mask (4) is carried out at least 10 minutes after the massaging step, preferably 15 minutes later. Method according to any one of Claims 9 to 11, in which the determined region (2) of the skin is a region of the face (3).
PCT/EP2022/081219 2021-11-10 2022-11-09 Water-soluble film for topical application WO2023083842A1 (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR2111928 2021-11-10
FR2111928A FR3128880A1 (en) 2021-11-10 2021-11-10 WATER SOLUBLE FILM FOR TOPICAL APPLICATION

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO2023083842A1 true WO2023083842A1 (en) 2023-05-19

Family

ID=79171071

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
PCT/EP2022/081219 WO2023083842A1 (en) 2021-11-10 2022-11-09 Water-soluble film for topical application

Country Status (2)

Country Link
FR (1) FR3128880A1 (en)
WO (1) WO2023083842A1 (en)

Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US20030086954A1 (en) * 2001-09-27 2003-05-08 Lavipharm Laboratories Inc. Pullulan and polyvinyl alcohol based film forming compositions
WO2004041926A1 (en) * 2002-11-07 2004-05-21 Kabushiki Kaisha Hayashibara Seibutsu Kagaku Kenkyujo Water-soluble film
FR2915388A1 (en) * 2007-04-27 2008-10-31 Oreal COSMETIC WATER SOLUBLE FILM
KR20090056392A (en) * 2007-11-30 2009-06-03 (주)아모레퍼시픽 Mask pack composed of a korean paper and the method for preparing thereof
US20090163530A1 (en) * 1998-09-25 2009-06-25 Sau-Hung Spence Leung Fast dissolving orally consumable films
FR3095345A1 (en) 2019-04-29 2020-10-30 Strand Cosmetics Europe COSMETIC COMPOSITION INCLUDING A POLYMERIC MATRIX

Family Cites Families (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR2972924B1 (en) * 2011-03-24 2013-09-27 Lucas Meyer Cosmetics COSMETIC AND DERMATOLOGICAL COMPOSITION AND USES THEREOF
US10849833B2 (en) * 2017-12-18 2020-12-01 Fengying Qian Manufacturing method of preservative-free facial mask and process equipment thereof

Patent Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US20090163530A1 (en) * 1998-09-25 2009-06-25 Sau-Hung Spence Leung Fast dissolving orally consumable films
US20030086954A1 (en) * 2001-09-27 2003-05-08 Lavipharm Laboratories Inc. Pullulan and polyvinyl alcohol based film forming compositions
WO2004041926A1 (en) * 2002-11-07 2004-05-21 Kabushiki Kaisha Hayashibara Seibutsu Kagaku Kenkyujo Water-soluble film
FR2915388A1 (en) * 2007-04-27 2008-10-31 Oreal COSMETIC WATER SOLUBLE FILM
KR20090056392A (en) * 2007-11-30 2009-06-03 (주)아모레퍼시픽 Mask pack composed of a korean paper and the method for preparing thereof
FR3095345A1 (en) 2019-04-29 2020-10-30 Strand Cosmetics Europe COSMETIC COMPOSITION INCLUDING A POLYMERIC MATRIX

Non-Patent Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Title
CAS , no. 11138-66-2
CAS, no. 9057-02-7

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
FR3128880A1 (en) 2023-05-12

Similar Documents

Publication Publication Date Title
EP1420758B1 (en) Cosmetic composition with skin tightening effect
CA1341321C (en) Aqueous gel comprising hyaluronic acid and deoxyribonucleic acid for use in cosmetic products, and a formulation method
EP2731585B1 (en) Use of oligosaccharide compounds for the prevention and treatment of pathological scars
FR3111795A1 (en) CARE KIT FOR KERATINIC MATERIALS
JP2023502305A (en) Nanofiber Matrix Made of Natural Polymers with Natural Functional Ingredients for Cosmetics
FR2989892A1 (en) COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING A PHOSPHORYLATED OLIGOSACCHARIDE AND A POLYSACCHARIDE
EP2793818B1 (en) Moisturizing composition
WO2023083842A1 (en) Water-soluble film for topical application
WO2016055701A1 (en) Dermatological composition for the prevention and treatment of haemorrhoids
EP1140040A1 (en) Spray-type cosmetic composition and matrix used in said composition for dermal administration
WO2021234074A1 (en) Composition comprising different specific collagens and uses on the skin
EP3773430A1 (en) Use of a dry film for cosmetic topical applications
FR2856925A1 (en) The use of a specified polysaccharide derived from fermentation of Klebsiella aerogenes or Enterobacter to produce a solid, flexible matrix usable as a cosmetic or dermatological patch
EP3630051B1 (en) Composition for remodeling scars
FR3069777B1 (en) COSMETIC SKIN TREATMENT PRODUCT
FR2924340A1 (en) Process, useful for the care and/or make-up of nails, comprises applying a substrate entirely or partly made of biocellulose and containing an active agent and/or a water soluble dye, on the nail surface
FR3036616A1 (en) COSMETIC ACTIVE INGREDIENT IN THE FORM OF GEL COMPRISING AT LEAST ONE FILLED STRUCTURE CLAY AND ALPHA-HYDROXIC ACIDS, AND COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS COMPRISING SAME.
FR3111551A1 (en) Gelled composition comprising a salt of a short chain fatty acid
FR3115990A1 (en) COMPOSITION COMPRISING AT LEAST ONE POLYSACCHARIDE FROM TAMARIN INDICA SEEDS
FR3115985A1 (en) METHOD FOR MAKING A FACE MASK IN THE FORM OF A GEL
WO2023105171A2 (en) Composition for smoothing the skin and/or the lips
WO2022269175A1 (en) Cosmetic use of a phacelia extract
FR3113247A1 (en) Use of a cosmetic composition for mature skin in the form of a dry and soluble film comprising an extract of Tropaeolum majus and an extract of Lens esculenta
EP3738579A1 (en) Cosmetic use of eugenia jambos extract for a protective effect, in particular anti-ageing, for the skin, its associated areas and the mucous membranes
EP2877152A2 (en) Active ingredient and anti-wrinkle cosmetic compositions

Legal Events

Date Code Title Description
121 Ep: the epo has been informed by wipo that ep was designated in this application

Ref document number: 22814373

Country of ref document: EP

Kind code of ref document: A1