WO2023023973A1 - Mask for caring for keratin materials - Google Patents
Mask for caring for keratin materials Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- WO2023023973A1 WO2023023973A1 PCT/CN2021/114513 CN2021114513W WO2023023973A1 WO 2023023973 A1 WO2023023973 A1 WO 2023023973A1 CN 2021114513 W CN2021114513 W CN 2021114513W WO 2023023973 A1 WO2023023973 A1 WO 2023023973A1
- Authority
- WO
- WIPO (PCT)
- Prior art keywords
- acid
- mask
- mask according
- ester
- composition
- Prior art date
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- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 32
- 102000011782 Keratins Human genes 0.000 title claims abstract description 30
- 108010076876 Keratins Proteins 0.000 title claims abstract description 30
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 87
- 239000000758 substrate Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 39
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 33
- SMZOUWXMTYCWNB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-(2-methoxy-5-methylphenyl)ethanamine Chemical compound COC1=CC=C(C)C=C1CCN SMZOUWXMTYCWNB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 31
- CERQOIWHTDAKMF-UHFFFAOYSA-N Methacrylic acid Chemical compound CC(=C)C(O)=O CERQOIWHTDAKMF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 26
- 150000002148 esters Chemical class 0.000 claims abstract description 26
- WROUWQQRXUBECT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-ethylacrylic acid Chemical compound CCC(=C)C(O)=O WROUWQQRXUBECT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 23
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- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 21
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- FENRSEGZMITUEF-ATTCVCFYSA-E [Na+].[Na+].[Na+].[Na+].[Na+].[Na+].[Na+].[Na+].[Na+].OP(=O)([O-])O[C@@H]1[C@@H](OP(=O)([O-])[O-])[C@H](OP(=O)(O)[O-])[C@H](OP(=O)([O-])[O-])[C@H](OP(=O)(O)[O-])[C@H]1OP(=O)([O-])[O-] Chemical compound [Na+].[Na+].[Na+].[Na+].[Na+].[Na+].[Na+].[Na+].[Na+].OP(=O)([O-])O[C@@H]1[C@@H](OP(=O)([O-])[O-])[C@H](OP(=O)(O)[O-])[C@H](OP(=O)([O-])[O-])[C@H](OP(=O)(O)[O-])[C@H]1OP(=O)([O-])[O-] FENRSEGZMITUEF-ATTCVCFYSA-E 0.000 description 1
- 150000007513 acids Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 229920000800 acrylic rubber Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 230000001154 acute effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000000996 additive effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000002411 adverse Effects 0.000 description 1
- AEMOLEFTQBMNLQ-ORELYVPDSA-N alpha-L-glucopyranuronic acid Chemical compound O[C@@H]1O[C@@H](C(O)=O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@@H]1O AEMOLEFTQBMNLQ-ORELYVPDSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 230000000844 anti-bacterial effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000008365 aqueous carrier Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000008346 aqueous phase Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000003899 bactericide agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000011425 bamboo Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000003796 beauty Effects 0.000 description 1
- QUDWYFHPNIMBFC-UHFFFAOYSA-N bis(prop-2-enyl) benzene-1,2-dicarboxylate Chemical compound C=CCOC(=O)C1=CC=CC=C1C(=O)OCC=C QUDWYFHPNIMBFC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 235000014121 butter Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- FAPWYRCQGJNNSJ-UBKPKTQASA-L calcium D-pantothenic acid Chemical compound [Ca+2].OCC(C)(C)[C@@H](O)C(=O)NCCC([O-])=O.OCC(C)(C)[C@@H](O)C(=O)NCCC([O-])=O FAPWYRCQGJNNSJ-UBKPKTQASA-L 0.000 description 1
- 229960002079 calcium pantothenate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 150000001735 carboxylic acids Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 238000012512 characterization method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000002738 chelating agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 150000001875 compounds Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 239000003431 cross linking reagent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000007423 decrease Effects 0.000 description 1
- GTBGXKPAKVYEKJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N decyl 2-methylprop-2-enoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCOC(=O)C(C)=C GTBGXKPAKVYEKJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- JDRSMPFHFNXQRB-IBEHDNSVSA-N decyl glucoside Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCO[C@@H]1O[C@H](CO)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H]1O JDRSMPFHFNXQRB-IBEHDNSVSA-N 0.000 description 1
- FWLDHHJLVGRRHD-UHFFFAOYSA-N decyl prop-2-enoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCOC(=O)C=C FWLDHHJLVGRRHD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- SZXQTJUDPRGNJN-UHFFFAOYSA-N dipropylene glycol Chemical compound OCCCOCCCO SZXQTJUDPRGNJN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 235000019301 disodium ethylene diamine tetraacetate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 description 1
- STVZJERGLQHEKB-UHFFFAOYSA-N ethylene glycol dimethacrylate Substances CC(=C)C(=O)OCCOC(=O)C(C)=C STVZJERGLQHEKB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 238000011156 evaluation Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000000945 filler Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000003205 fragrance Substances 0.000 description 1
- WIGCFUFOHFEKBI-UHFFFAOYSA-N gamma-tocopherol Natural products CC(C)CCCC(C)CCCC(C)CCCC1CCC2C(C)C(O)C(C)C(C)C2O1 WIGCFUFOHFEKBI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000000499 gel Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000010438 heat treatment Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229940051250 hexylene glycol Drugs 0.000 description 1
- WGCNASOHLSPBMP-UHFFFAOYSA-N hydroxyacetaldehyde Natural products OCC=O WGCNASOHLSPBMP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 238000007654 immersion Methods 0.000 description 1
- 150000007529 inorganic bases Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 239000004310 lactic acid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000014655 lactic acid Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000000865 liniment Substances 0.000 description 1
- VTHJTEIRLNZDEV-UHFFFAOYSA-L magnesium dihydroxide Chemical compound [OH-].[OH-].[Mg+2] VTHJTEIRLNZDEV-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
- 239000000347 magnesium hydroxide Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910001862 magnesium hydroxide Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 229910052748 manganese Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000011572 manganese Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000005259 measurement Methods 0.000 description 1
- 150000002734 metacrylic acid derivatives Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 210000004400 mucous membrane Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- ZIUHHBKFKCYYJD-UHFFFAOYSA-N n,n'-methylenebisacrylamide Chemical compound C=CC(=O)NCNC(=O)C=C ZIUHHBKFKCYYJD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000005445 natural material Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229960003966 nicotinamide Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 235000005152 nicotinamide Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011570 nicotinamide Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229960003512 nicotinic acid Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000004745 nonwoven fabric Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000007764 o/w emulsion Substances 0.000 description 1
- HMZGPNHSPWNGEP-UHFFFAOYSA-N octadecyl 2-methylprop-2-enoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCOC(=O)C(C)=C HMZGPNHSPWNGEP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- AEIJTFQOBWATKX-UHFFFAOYSA-N octane-1,2-diol Chemical compound CCCCCCC(O)CO AEIJTFQOBWATKX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 125000002801 octanoyl group Chemical group C(CCCCCCC)(=O)* 0.000 description 1
- 150000007530 organic bases Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 239000003960 organic solvent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000002245 particle Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000011236 particulate material Substances 0.000 description 1
- WXZMFSXDPGVJKK-UHFFFAOYSA-N pentaerythritol Chemical compound OCC(CO)(CO)CO WXZMFSXDPGVJKK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000000049 pigment Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920000728 polyester Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920000573 polyethylene Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920001223 polyethylene glycol Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920000139 polyethylene terephthalate Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000005020 polyethylene terephthalate Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000006116 polymerization reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229920005862 polyol Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 150000003077 polyols Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 229920001155 polypropylene Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000011736 potassium bicarbonate Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910000028 potassium bicarbonate Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 235000015497 potassium bicarbonate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229910000027 potassium carbonate Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 235000011181 potassium carbonates Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- TYJJADVDDVDEDZ-UHFFFAOYSA-M potassium hydrogencarbonate Chemical compound [K+].OC([O-])=O TYJJADVDDVDEDZ-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000003755 preservative agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- ULWHHBHJGPPBCO-UHFFFAOYSA-N propane-1,1-diol Chemical compound CCC(O)O ULWHHBHJGPPBCO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- QQONPFPTGQHPMA-UHFFFAOYSA-N propylene Natural products CC=C QQONPFPTGQHPMA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 125000004805 propylene group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])C([H])([*:1])C([H])([H])[*:2] 0.000 description 1
- 239000002994 raw material Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229960003471 retinol Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 235000020944 retinol Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011607 retinol Substances 0.000 description 1
- 150000003839 salts Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 210000004761 scalp Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 230000001953 sensory effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 229910000029 sodium carbonate Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 235000017550 sodium carbonate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 230000006641 stabilisation Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000011105 stabilization Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229910052712 strontium Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- CIOAGBVUUVVLOB-UHFFFAOYSA-N strontium atom Chemical compound [Sr] CIOAGBVUUVVLOB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229920002994 synthetic fiber Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000012209 synthetic fiber Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940061605 tetrasodium glutamate diacetate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- UZVUJVFQFNHRSY-OUTKXMMCSA-J tetrasodium;(2s)-2-[bis(carboxylatomethyl)amino]pentanedioate Chemical compound [Na+].[Na+].[Na+].[Na+].[O-]C(=O)CC[C@@H](C([O-])=O)N(CC([O-])=O)CC([O-])=O UZVUJVFQFNHRSY-OUTKXMMCSA-J 0.000 description 1
- 230000008719 thickening Effects 0.000 description 1
- 229930003799 tocopherol Natural products 0.000 description 1
- 235000010384 tocopherol Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229960001295 tocopherol Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000011732 tocopherol Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000011200 topical administration Methods 0.000 description 1
- 235000019155 vitamin A Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011719 vitamin A Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000019160 vitamin B3 Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011708 vitamin B3 Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000009492 vitamin B5 Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011675 vitamin B5 Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000019165 vitamin E Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011709 vitamin E Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940046009 vitamin E Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940045997 vitamin a Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000011701 zinc Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910052725 zinc Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- GVJHHUAWPYXKBD-IEOSBIPESA-N α-tocopherol Chemical compound OC1=C(C)C(C)=C2O[C@@](CCC[C@H](C)CCC[C@H](C)CCCC(C)C)(C)CCC2=C1C GVJHHUAWPYXKBD-IEOSBIPESA-N 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/0212—Face masks
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
- A61K8/8147—Homopolymers or copolymers of acids; Metal or ammonium salts thereof, e.g. crotonic acid, (meth)acrylic acid; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
- A61K8/8152—Homopolymers or copolymers of esters, e.g. (meth)acrylic acid esters; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/001—Preparations for care of the lips
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/59—Mixtures
- A61K2800/594—Mixtures of polymers
Definitions
- the present invention relates to a cosmetic mask for topical application.
- the present invention relates to a mask for caring for keratin materials.
- the present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic process for caring for keratin materials.
- Masks are popular with many consumers since they can put the masks on the face for a period of time and then take away the masks, without massaging on the face during the application.
- Such mask products are made of a fibrous/polymer-based sheet material impregnated with a liquid formula.
- the most common sheet material used for such products is nonwovens because of their easy availability and cost effectiveness.
- these sheet mask products are impregnated with a liquid formula comprising skincare ingredients.
- WO 02/062132 discloses a mask comprising: (1) a water insoluble substrate; and (2) a liquid composition comprising: (a) a skin tone changing agent selected from skin tone changing pigments, reflective particulate material, and mixtures thereof, wherein the skin tone changing agent has a particle size of at least about 100nm; (b) a water-soluble thickening agent which provides the liquid composition a viscosity of from about 1000 mPa ⁇ s to about 600,000 mPa ⁇ s; and (c) an aqueous carrier.
- the mask disclosed therein provides acute skin tone changing benefit to the skin.
- US20190142139A1 discloses a face mask for beauty care that can easily be brought into contact with various facial surface shapes differing for each person.
- the face mask is configured to cover the entire face of a user; has a non-linear cut in a portion which comes into contact with the bottom region of a concave portion of the facial surface of the user; and has a non-linear cut in a portion which comes into contact with the apex region of a convex portion of the facial surface of the user.
- tissue marks for topical application has low delivery capacity and poor adherence on the skin.
- an object of the present invention is to provide a mask for caring for keratin materials which has a relatively higher delivery capacity and good adherence on the keratin materials.
- the present invention provides a mask for caring for keratin materials, comprising:
- the mask according to the present invention can provide cosmetic active ingredient to the skin.
- the composition is well impregnated into the substrate, and the mask has a relatively higher delivery capacity and good adherence on the keratin materials.
- the mask of the present invention can present a good sensory to the keratin materials.
- the present invention provides a non-therapeutic process for caring for keratin materials, comprising:
- keratin materials means the entire skin of the body, excluding the scalp and mucous membranes. The lips and the face are especially considered for the present invention.
- the present invention provides a mask for caring for keratin materials, comprising:
- the mask according to the present invention comprises a water insoluble substrate selected from gauze tissues, jellified tissues, and a combination thereof.
- water insoluble means that the substrate is not dissolvable in water and it doesn't break apart upon immersion in water.
- gauze tissues suitable for the present invention mention can be made of gauze tissues consisting of natural fibers such as cellulose fibers, for example cotton, pulp, and bamboo, semi-natural fibers such as viscose rayon fibers and synthetic fibers such as polyester fibers, polyethylene terephthalate fibers, polyethylene fibers, and polypropylene fibers. Two or more selected from the above fibers may be used in combination.
- natural fibers such as cellulose fibers, for example cotton, pulp, and bamboo
- semi-natural fibers such as viscose rayon fibers
- synthetic fibers such as polyester fibers, polyethylene terephthalate fibers, polyethylene fibers, and polypropylene fibers. Two or more selected from the above fibers may be used in combination.
- alginate tissues consisting of water insoluble alginate fibers.
- alginate in particular means a salt of alginic acid.
- Alginic acid a natural substance obtained from brown algae or from certain bacteria, is a polyuronic acid composed of two uronic acids linked together via 1, 4-glycoside bonds: ⁇ -D-mannuronic acid (M) and ⁇ -L-glucuronic acid (G) .
- Suitable water insoluble alginates have a weight-average molecular weight of about 20,000 Daltons to about 500,000 Daltons.
- the weight-average molecular weight is calculated by first determining the intrinsic viscosity, then using the Mark-Houwink Sakurada Equation, as in Martinsen, et al, "Comparison of Different Methods for Determination of Molecular Weights and Molecular Weight Distribution of Alginates” (Carbohydr. Polym., 15, 171-193, 1991) .
- the alginate can be selected from calcium alginate, strontium alginate, zinc alginate, copper alginate, manganese alginate, or a mixture thereof, preferably calcium alginate or copper alginate, in particular calcium alginate.
- Calcium alginate fiber are specifically found in the fronds and stems of seaweeds of the class Phaeophyceae, examples of which are Fucus vesiculosus, Fucus spiralis, Ascophyllum nodosum, Macrocystis pyrifera, Alaria esculenta, Eclonia maxima, Lessonia nigrescens, Lessonia trabeculata, Laminaria japonica, Durvillea antarctica, Laminaria hyperborea, Laminaria longicruris, Laminaria digitata, Laminaria saccharina, Laminaria cloustoni, and Saragassum sp.
- the substrate can have a wide variety of shapes, depending on the desired use and characteristic of the mask.
- the substrate is typically designed to fit the area of the skin to which topical application is desired.
- the substrate is designed to correspond to the shape of the lips.
- the water insoluble substrate has a basis weight ranging from 40 g/m 2 to 60 g/m 2 .
- the fiber from which the water insoluble substrate is made of has a fineness ranging from 1.3 dtex to 2.2 dtex.
- the substrate has a thickness ranging from 0.2 mm to 2 mm.
- a water insoluble substrate selected from a gauze tissue, a jellified tissue (e.g. alginate tissue) , and a combination thereof can have better adherence.
- a water insoluble substrate made of a gauze tissue can release more liquid on the keratin materials and a substrate made of a jellified tissue can form double-jellification after mixed with the aqueous composition, which brings good adherence and a higher delivery capacity.
- water insoluble substrates As commercial examples of water insoluble substrates, mention can be made of, for example, the product sold under the tradename MBT-S60 by HANGZHOU XIEYE MICROFIBER FABRICS CO., LTD, the composition thereof comprises Lyocell fiber and cotton gauze, and the product sold under the tradename M762R-40CN by Sanjiang Enterprise, the composition thereof comprises 20 wt. %alginate fiber and 80 wt. % Tencel.
- the mask according to the present invention comprises an aqueous composition impregnated into the substrate.
- composition comprises:
- the aqueous composition comprises water.
- the aqueous composition comprises an organic solvent miscible with water (at room temperature 25°C) such as ethanol, glycol and polyols having from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and preferentially having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerin, propylene glycol, propanediol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol; and mixtures thereof.
- an organic solvent miscible with water such as ethanol, glycol and polyols having from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and preferentially having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerin, propylene glycol, propanediol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol; and mixture
- water is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 60 wt. %to 95 wt. %, preferably from 70 wt. %to 85 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the composition has a viscosity ranging from 10 UD to 50 UD, preferably from 15 UDto 35 UD.
- the viscosity of the composition can be measured at 25 °C, using a Rheomat 100 Plus viscometer equipped with a spindle M3 rotating at 200 rpm.
- the aqueous composition according to the present invention comprises a combination of hydrophilic thickeners.
- the combination of hydrophilic thickeners comprises at least two hydrophilic thickeners.
- hydrophilic thickener is intended to mean a compound capable of increasing the viscosity of a hydrophilic phase of a composition.
- hydrophilic thickeners mention may in particular be made of water-soluble or water-dispersible thickening polymers.
- the combination of hydrophilic thickeners comprises:
- the homopolymer of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid or ethacrylic acid or an ester thereof is selected from homopolymers of acrylic acid crosslinked with allyl ethers of sucrose or pentaerytritol, mention can be made of carbomers, which can be available as the 900 series from B. F. Goodrich (e.g., 954) .
- copolymer of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate and of acrylic or methacrylic acid or ethacrylic acid or a ester thereof mention can be made of copolymers of:
- R 1 denotes H or CH 3 or C 2 H 5 , that is to say acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or ethacrylic acid monomers
- R 2 denotes H or CH 3 or C 2 H 5 (that is to say, acrylate, methacrylate or ethacrylate units) and preferably H (acrylate units) or CH 3 (methacrylate units) and R 3 denotes a C10-C30 and preferably C12-C22 alkyl radical.
- the (C10-C30) alkyl esters of unsaturated carboxylic acids are preferably selected from lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate, dodecyl acrylate and the corresponding methacrylates, such as lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate and dodecyl methacrylate, and their mixtures.
- the copolymers are crosslinked.
- copolymers resulting from the polymerization of a mixture of monomers comprising:
- crosslinking agent which is a well-known copolymerizable polyethylenic unsaturated monomer, such as diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth) acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly) ethylene glycol dimethacrylate and methylenebisacrylamide.
- acrylate/C10-C30 alkyl acrylate copolymers (INCI name: Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer) , such as the products sold by Lubrizol under the trade names PemulenTM TR-1, Pemulen TR-2, 1382 and EDT 2020 and more preferably still PemulenTM TR-2.
- the combination of hydrophilic thickeners comprises:
- copolymers of C10-C30 alkyl acrylates and of acrylic or methacrylic acid or of their esters for example, Acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, such as the products sold under the names TR-2 POLYMER by the company LUBRIZOL, TR-1, TR2 or 1342 by the company Goodrich.
- the homopolymer of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid or ethacrylic acid or an ester thereof is present in an amount ranging from 0.05 wt. %to 1 wt. %, preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 0.8 wt. %, more preferably from 0.2 wt. %to 0.6 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the copolymer of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate and of acrylic or methacrylic acid or ethacrylic acid or a ester thereof is present in an amount ranging from 0.05 wt. %to 1 wt. %, preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 0.8 wt. %, more preferably from 0.15 wt. %to 0.6 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the aqueous composition of the present invention comprises at least one saponification agent.
- the saponification agent and the combination of hydrophilic thickeners defined above can form a gel network texture.
- the saponification agent can be, for example, inorganic bases, such as alkali metal hydroxides (for example, sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide) , alkaline earth metal hydroxides (for example, magnesium hydroxide) or ammonium hydroxide, or organic bases, for example, monoethanolamine (MEA) , diethanolamine, triethanolamine, tromethamine, N-methylglucamine, arginine, lysine, and arginine.
- inorganic bases such as alkali metal hydroxides (for example, sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide) , alkaline earth metal hydroxides (for example, magnesium hydroxide) or ammonium hydroxide
- organic bases for example, monoethanolamine (MEA) , diethanolamine, triethanolamine, tromethamine, N-methylglucamine, arginine, lysine, and arginine.
- the saponification agent is selected from alkali metal hydroxides, alkaline earth metal hydroxides, ammonium hydroxide, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, tromethamine, N-methylglucamine, arginine, lysine, arginine, and a mixture thereof.
- the saponification agent is selected from monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, tromethamine, and a mixture thereof.
- the saponification agent is present in an amount ranging from 0.05 wt. %to 0.9 wt. %, preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 0.7 wt. %, preferably from 0.12 wt. %to 0.5 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the aqueous composition according to the present invention comprises comprise at least one cosmetic active ingredient.
- cosmetic active ingredient examples include natural extracts; vitamins such as vitamin A (retinol) , vitamin C (ascorbic acid) , vitamin E (tocopherol) , vitamin B5 (panthenol) , vitamin B3 (niacinamide) , and derivatives of said vitamins (in particular esters) and mixtures thereof; urea; caffeine; salicylic acid and derivatives thereof; alpha-hydroxyacids such as lactic acid or glycolic acid and derivatives thereof; sunscreens; extracts from algae, fungi, plants, yeasts and bacteria (such as prunus cerasus fruit extract) ; enzymes; humectants and moisturizers (such as sodium hyaluronate, calcium PCA) ; emollients (such as mangifera indica seed butter) ; anti-inflammatory agents; agents acting on the microcirculation, and mixtures thereof.
- vitamins such as vitamin A (retinol) , vitamin C (ascorbic acid) , vitamin E (tocop
- the composition may comprise may also contain conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives in the aqueous phase or the oily phase depending on their nature, for instance fragrances, chelating agents (for example, sodium phytate, tetrasodium glutamate diacetate and disodium EDTA) , preserving agents (for example, hydroxyacetophenone, pentylene glycol, and phenoxyethanol) and bactericides, pH regulators (for example citric acid ) , fillers (for example, zea mays (corn) starch) and mixtures thereof.
- fragrances for example, sodium phytate, tetrasodium glutamate diacetate and disodium EDTA
- preserving agents for example, hydroxyacetophenone, pentylene glycol, and phenoxyethanol
- bactericides for example, hydroxyacetophenone, pentylene glycol, and phenoxyethanol
- pH regulators for example citric acid
- fillers for example, zea mays (corn)
- the weight ratio of the water insoluble substrate and the aqueous composition ranges from 1 ⁇ 6 to 1 ⁇ 30. More preferably, the weight ratio of the water insoluble substrate and the composition ranges from 1 ⁇ 12 to 1 ⁇ 25.
- the present invention provides a mask for caring for keratin materials, comprising:
- a saponification agent selected from monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, tromethamine, and a mixture thereof;
- weight ratio of the water insoluble substrate and the composition ranges from 1 ⁇ 12 to 1 ⁇ 25.
- the mask according to the present invention can be used as a lip mask or a face mask and is intended for topical administration and for skincare.
- the present invention provides a non-therapeutic process for caring for keratin materials, comprising:
- the application time is from 5 minutes to 45 minutes, preferably from 10 minutes to 30 minutes.
- the keratin materials are the face or the lips.
- Substrates used a gauze tissue, sold under the tradename MBT-S60 by HANGZHOU XIEYE MICROFIBER FABRICS CO. LTD, the composition thereof comprises Lyocell fiber (1.4 dtex*5mm) and cotton gauze (40S-28*24) .
- compositions of invention examples (IE. ) 1 and comparative examples (CE. ) 1-2 were prepared according to the amounts given in Table 2. The amount of each component is given in %by weight of the total weight of the composition.
- Composition of invention example 1 represents the aqueous composition according to the present invention.
- Composition of comparative example 1 comprises sodium polyacrylate instead of a homopolymer of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid or ethacrylic acid or an ester thereof.
- Composition of comparative example 1 comprises no saponification agent.
- compositions listed above were prepared as follows, taking composition of invention example 1 as an example.
- composition of invention example 1 are divided into A) -E) phases as shown in Table 3.
- phase A Water of phase A was added into a vessel, then all other components of phase A were added into the vessel, followed by heating up to 65°C while mixing,
- the mixture was diluted with water of phase C.
- a mask was prepared by filling the substrate with the composition of invention example 1, wherein the weight ratio of the substrate used and the composition is 1 ⁇ 15.
- the viscosity of each composition obtained was measured at 25°C, using a Rheomat 100 Plus viscometer equipped with a spindle M3, the measurement being performed after 10 minutes of rotation of the spindle in the composition (after which time stabilization of the viscosity and of the spin speed of the spindle are observed) , at a shear rate of 200 rpm.
- the results were listed in Table 4.
- Adherence indicates the ability of a tissue to resist to sliding. Adherence can be characterized by a static friction. The bigger the static friction is, the better the adherence is.
- the characterization can be carried out with a Friction-Peel Tester as follows:
- test sample on a bio-skin with one short side clamped for about 1 cm and without any plastic film during installing the sample, avoid attaching on it directly to remove any composition therein;
- the mask of invention composition 1 has good adherence.
- the mask of invention example 1 and a commercial available lip mask (SEPHORA SHEA LIP MASK available from the company SEPHORA (Shanghai) Cosmetic Co. Ltd. ) were evaluated in terms of delivery capacity and evaporate rate.
- Delivery capacity is used to indicate the amount of the cosmetic composition of the mask deposited on the skin and penetrated to the skin, which was evaluated as follows:
- the delivery capacity was calculated according to the following equation:
- a mask the area of the mask tested
- the mask of invention example 1 has higher delivery capacity as compared with the commercial available lip mask.
- the evaporation rate can be tested as follows:
- Lower evaporation rate means the substrate can hold more active ingredients and increase delivery capacity to the skin.
- the mask of invention example 1 can hold more active and has higher delivery capacity as compared with the commercial available lip mask.
- Trans epidermal water loss (TEWL) of the mask of invention example 1 was measured as follows.
- Trans epidermal water loss was determined with a TEWL-meter at immediately (T0) and one hour (T1H) after the mask to be tested was removed.
- the mask of invention example 1 significantly decreases the trans epidermal water loss 1 hour after single application. There is a significant difference in comparison with the control area, indicating that the mask of invention example 1 has a very high dermoprotective effect.
- the mask of invention example 1 was subjected to a consumer test as follows.
- the mask to be test was applied by users under conditions of normal use and self-assessment, respectively. Then the users were invited to fill 3 self-administered questionnaires based on a 5 points-scale (Agree/somewhat agree/neither agree-nor disagree/somewhat disagree/disagree) :
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Abstract
A mask for caring for keratin materials, comprises: A) a water insoluble substrate selected from gauze tissues, jellified tissues, and a combination thereof; B) an aqueous composition impregnated into the substrate comprising: a) a combination of hydrophilic thickeners comprising: i) a homopolymer of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid or ethacrylic acid or an ester thereof; and ii) a copolymer of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate and of acrylic or methacrylic acid or ethacrylic acid or a ester thereof; b) at least one at least one saponification agent; and c) at least one cosmetic active ingredient.
Description
The present invention relates to a cosmetic mask for topical application. In particular, the present invention relates to a mask for caring for keratin materials. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic process for caring for keratin materials.
BACKGROUND ART
Masks are popular with many consumers since they can put the masks on the face for a period of time and then take away the masks, without massaging on the face during the application.
Such mask products are made of a fibrous/polymer-based sheet material impregnated with a liquid formula. The most common sheet material used for such products is nonwovens because of their easy availability and cost effectiveness.
As stated above, these sheet mask products are impregnated with a liquid formula comprising skincare ingredients.
For example, WO 02/062132 discloses a mask comprising: (1) a water insoluble substrate; and (2) a liquid composition comprising: (a) a skin tone changing agent selected from skin tone changing pigments, reflective particulate material, and mixtures thereof, wherein the skin tone changing agent has a particle size of at least about 100nm; (b) a water-soluble thickening agent which provides the liquid composition a viscosity of from about 1000 mPa·s to about 600,000 mPa·s; and (c) an aqueous carrier. The mask disclosed therein provides acute skin tone changing benefit to the skin.
US20190142139A1 discloses a face mask for beauty care that can easily be brought into contact with various facial surface shapes differing for each person. The face mask is configured to cover the entire face of a user; has a non-linear cut in a portion which comes into contact with the bottom region of a concave portion of the facial surface of the user; and has a non-linear cut in a portion which comes into contact with the apex region of a convex portion of the facial surface of the user.
However, most tissue marks for topical application has low delivery capacity and poor adherence on the skin.
Thus, there is a need for a mask for caring for keratin materials which has a relatively higher delivery capacity and good adherence on the keratin materials.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
Thus, an object of the present invention is to provide a mask for caring for keratin materials which has a relatively higher delivery capacity and good adherence on the keratin materials.
Thus, according to a first aspect, the present invention provides a mask for caring for keratin materials, comprising:
A) a water insoluble substrate selected from gauze tissues, jellified tissues, and a combination thereof;
B) an aqueous composition impregnated into the substrate comprising:
a) a combination of hydrophilic thickeners comprising:
i) a homopolymer of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid or ethacrylic acid or an ester thereof; and
ii) a copolymer of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate and of acrylic or methacrylic acid or ethacrylic acid or a ester thereof;
b) at least one at least one saponification agent; and
c) at least one cosmetic active ingredient.
The mask according to the present invention can provide cosmetic active ingredient to the skin.
It was found that for the mask according to the present invention, the composition is well impregnated into the substrate, and the mask has a relatively higher delivery capacity and good adherence on the keratin materials.
In addition, the mask of the present invention can present a good sensory to the keratin materials.
According to a second aspect, the present invention provides a non-therapeutic process for caring for keratin materials, comprising:
(i) applying the mask according to the present invention on the keratin materials;
(ii) allowing the mask to remain on the keratin materials for a period of time; and
(iii) removing the mask from the keratin materials.
Other aspects and advantages of the present invention will emerge more clearly on reading the description and the examples that follow.
Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the art the present invention belongs to. When the definition of a term in the present description conflicts with the meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the art the present invention belongs to, the definition described herein shall apply.
In that which follows and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included within this range, in particular in the expressions "between... and... " and "from ... to ... " .
Moreover, the expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more" .
Throughout the instant application, the term “comprising” is to be interpreted as encompassing all specifically mentioned features as well optional, additional, unspecified ones. As used herein, the use of the term “comprising” also discloses the embodiment wherein no features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (i.e. “consisting of” ) .
Unless otherwise specified, all numerical values expressing amount of ingredients and the like which are used in the description and claims are to be understood as being modified by the term “about” . Accordingly, unless indicated to the contrary, the numerical values and parameters described herein are approximate values, which are capable of being changed according to the desired purpose as required.
All percentages in the present invention refer to weight percentage, unless otherwise specified.
Within the context of the present invention, the term "keratin materials" means the entire skin of the body, excluding the scalp and mucous membranes. The lips and the face are especially considered for the present invention.
According to the first aspect, the present invention provides a mask for caring for keratin materials, comprising:
A) a water insoluble substrate selected from gauze tissues, jellified tissues, and a combination thereof;
B) an aqueous composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion impregnated into the substrate comprising:
a) a combination of hydrophilic thickeners comprising:
i) a homopolymer of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid or ethacrylic acid or an ester thereof; and
ii) a copolymer of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate and of acrylic or methacrylic acid or ethacrylic acid or a ester thereof;
b) at least one at least one saponification agent; and
c) at least one cosmetic active ingredient.
Water insoluble substrate
According to the first aspect, the mask according to the present invention comprises a water insoluble substrate selected from gauze tissues, jellified tissues, and a combination thereof.
For the purpose of the invention, the term “water insoluble” means that the substrate is not dissolvable in water and it doesn't break apart upon immersion in water.
As gauze tissues suitable for the present invention, mention can be made of gauze tissues consisting of natural fibers such as cellulose fibers, for example cotton, pulp, and bamboo, semi-natural fibers such as viscose rayon fibers and synthetic fibers such as polyester fibers, polyethylene terephthalate fibers, polyethylene fibers, and polypropylene fibers. Two or more selected from the above fibers may be used in combination.
As jellified tissues suitable for the present invention, mention can be made of alginate tissues consisting of water insoluble alginate fibers.
The term "alginate" in particular means a salt of alginic acid. Alginic acid, a natural substance obtained from brown algae or from certain bacteria, is a polyuronic acid composed of two uronic acids linked together via 1, 4-glycoside bonds: β-D-mannuronic acid (M) and α-L-glucuronic acid (G) .
Suitable water insoluble alginates have a weight-average molecular weight of about 20,000 Daltons to about 500,000 Daltons. The weight-average molecular weight is calculated by first determining the intrinsic viscosity, then using the Mark-Houwink Sakurada Equation, as in Martinsen, et al, "Comparison of Different Methods for Determination of Molecular Weights and Molecular Weight Distribution of Alginates" (Carbohydr. Polym., 15, 171-193, 1991) .
The alginate can be selected from calcium alginate, strontium alginate, zinc alginate, copper alginate, manganese alginate, or a mixture thereof, preferably calcium alginate or copper alginate, in particular calcium alginate.
Calcium alginate fiber are specifically found in the fronds and stems of seaweeds of the class Phaeophyceae, examples of which are Fucus vesiculosus, Fucus spiralis, Ascophyllum nodosum, Macrocystis pyrifera, Alaria esculenta, Eclonia maxima, Lessonia nigrescens, Lessonia trabeculata, Laminaria japonica, Durvillea antarctica, Laminaria hyperborea, Laminaria longicruris, Laminaria digitata, Laminaria saccharina, Laminaria cloustoni, and Saragassum sp.
The substrate can have a wide variety of shapes, depending on the desired use and characteristic of the mask.
The substrate is typically designed to fit the area of the skin to which topical application is desired. For example, when the mask is applied to the lips, the substrate is designed to correspond to the shape of the lips.
Advantageously, the water insoluble substrate has a basis weight ranging from 40 g/m
2 to 60 g/m
2.
Advantageously, the fiber from which the water insoluble substrate is made of has a fineness ranging from 1.3 dtex to 2.2 dtex.
Advantageously, the substrate has a thickness ranging from 0.2 mm to 2 mm.
It was found that a water insoluble substrate selected from a gauze tissue, a jellified tissue (e.g. alginate tissue) , and a combination thereof, can have better adherence. Meanwhile, a water insoluble substrate made of a gauze tissue can release more liquid on the keratin materials and a substrate made of a jellified tissue can form double-jellification after mixed with the aqueous composition, which brings good adherence and a higher delivery capacity.
As commercial examples of water insoluble substrates, mention can be made of, for example, the product sold under the tradename MBT-S60 by HANGZHOU XIEYE MICROFIBER FABRICS CO., LTD, the composition thereof comprises Lyocell fiber and cotton gauze, and the product sold under the tradename M762R-40CN by Sanjiang Enterprise, the composition thereof comprises 20 wt. %alginate fiber and 80 wt. % Tencel.
Composition
According to the first aspect, the mask according to the present invention comprises an aqueous composition impregnated into the substrate.
The composition comprises:
a) a combination of hydrophilic thickeners comprising:
i) a homopolymer of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid or ethacrylic acid or an ester thereof; and
ii) a copolymer of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate and of acrylic or methacrylic acid or ethacrylic acid or a ester thereof;
b) at least one at least one saponification agent; and
c) at least one cosmetic active ingredient.
The aqueous composition comprises water.
Preferably, the aqueous composition comprises an organic solvent miscible with water (at room temperature 25℃) such as ethanol, glycol and polyols having from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and preferentially having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerin, propylene glycol, propanediol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol; and mixtures thereof.
Advantageously, water is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 60 wt. %to 95 wt. %, preferably from 70 wt. %to 85 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Advantageously, the composition has a viscosity ranging from 10 UD to 50 UD, preferably from 15 UDto 35 UD.
The viscosity of the composition can be measured at 25 ℃, using a Rheomat 100 Plus viscometer equipped with a spindle M3 rotating at 200 rpm.
Hydrophilic thickeners
According to the first aspect, the aqueous composition according to the present invention comprises a combination of hydrophilic thickeners.
The combination of hydrophilic thickeners comprises at least two hydrophilic thickeners.
The term “hydrophilic thickener” is intended to mean a compound capable of increasing the viscosity of a hydrophilic phase of a composition.
As hydrophilic thickeners, mention may in particular be made of water-soluble or water-dispersible thickening polymers.
According to the present invention, the combination of hydrophilic thickeners comprises:
i) a homopolymer of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid or ethacrylic acid or an ester thereof; and
ii) a copolymer of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate and of acrylic or methacrylic acid or ethacrylic acid or a ester thereof.
Preferably, the homopolymer of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid or ethacrylic acid or an ester thereof is selected from homopolymers of acrylic acid crosslinked with allyl ethers of sucrose or pentaerytritol, mention can be made of carbomers, which can be available as the
900 series from B. F. Goodrich (e.g.,
954) .
Preferably, the copolymer of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate and of acrylic or methacrylic acid or ethacrylic acid or a ester thereof, mention can be made of copolymers of:
at least one monomer of following formula (1) :
in which R
1 denotes H or CH
3 or C
2H
5, that is to say acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or ethacrylic acid monomers, and
at least one monomer of unsaturated carboxylic acid (C10-C30) alkyl ester type which corresponds to the monomer of following formula (2) :
in which R
2 denotes H or CH
3 or C
2H
5 (that is to say, acrylate, methacrylate or ethacrylate units) and preferably H (acrylate units) or CH
3 (methacrylate units) and R
3 denotes a C10-C30 and preferably C12-C22 alkyl radical.
The (C10-C30) alkyl esters of unsaturated carboxylic acids are preferably selected from lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate, dodecyl acrylate and the corresponding methacrylates, such as lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate and dodecyl methacrylate, and their mixtures.
Preferably, the copolymers are crosslinked.
Use will more particularly be made of copolymers resulting from the polymerization of a mixture of monomers comprising:
(i) essentially acrylic acid,
(ii) an ester of formula (2) described above in which R2 denotes H or CH3 and R3 denotes an alkyl radical having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and
(iii) a crosslinking agent which is a well-known copolymerizable polyethylenic unsaturated monomer, such as diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth) acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly) ethylene glycol dimethacrylate and methylenebisacrylamide.
Use will more particularly be made, among copolymers of this type, of those composed of 95 wt %to 60 wt %of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit) , 4 wt %to 40 wt %of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic unit) and 0 wt %to 6 wt %of crosslinking polymerizable monomer or else of those composed of 98 wt %to 96 wt %of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit) , 1 wt %to 4 wt %of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic unit) and 0.1 wt %to 0.6 wt %of crosslinking polymerizable monomer, such as those described above.
Preference is very particularly given according to the present invention, among the polymers above, to acrylate/C10-C30 alkyl acrylate copolymers (INCI name: Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer) , such as the products sold by Lubrizol under the trade names PemulenTM TR-1, Pemulen TR-2,
1382 and
EDT 2020 and more preferably still PemulenTM TR-2.
In particular, the combination of hydrophilic thickeners comprises:
i) a homopolymer of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid crosslinked with an allyl ether of pentaerythritol, an allyl ether of sucrose, or an allyl ether of propylene, for example, carbomers, such as the products sold under the names
940,
941,
980,
981 sold by the company LUBRIZOL, the product sold under the name
980 by the company COREL PHARMA CHEM, and the products sold under the names
K by the company 3V;
ii) copolymers of C10-C30 alkyl acrylates and of acrylic or methacrylic acid or of their esters, for example, Acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, such as the products sold under the names
TR-2 POLYMER by the company LUBRIZOL,
TR-1,
TR2 or
1342 by the company Goodrich.
Advantageously, the homopolymer of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid or ethacrylic acid or an ester thereof is present in an amount ranging from 0.05 wt. %to 1 wt. %, preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 0.8 wt. %, more preferably from 0.2 wt. %to 0.6 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Advantageously, the copolymer of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate and of acrylic or methacrylic acid or ethacrylic acid or a ester thereof is present in an amount ranging from 0.05 wt. %to 1 wt. %, preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 0.8 wt. %, more preferably from 0.15 wt. %to 0.6 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Saponification agents
According to the first aspect, the aqueous composition of the present invention comprises at least one saponification agent.
The saponification agent and the combination of hydrophilic thickeners defined above can form a gel network texture.
The saponification agent can be, for example, inorganic bases, such as alkali metal hydroxides (for example, sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide) , alkaline earth metal hydroxides (for example, magnesium hydroxide) or ammonium hydroxide, or organic bases, for example, monoethanolamine (MEA) , diethanolamine, triethanolamine, tromethamine, N-methylglucamine, arginine, lysine, and arginine.
Mention can be also made of sodium carbonate, potassium carbonate, sodium bicarbonate, potassium bicarbonate.
Preferably, the saponification agent is selected from alkali metal hydroxides, alkaline earth metal hydroxides, ammonium hydroxide, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, tromethamine, N-methylglucamine, arginine, lysine, arginine, and a mixture thereof.
More preferably, the saponification agent is selected from monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, tromethamine, and a mixture thereof.
Advantageously, the saponification agent is present in an amount ranging from 0.05 wt. %to 0.9 wt. %, preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 0.7 wt. %, preferably from 0.12 wt. %to 0.5 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Cosmetic active ingredients
According to the first aspect, the aqueous composition according to the present invention comprises comprise at least one cosmetic active ingredient.
As examples of cosmetic active ingredient, mention can be made of natural extracts; vitamins such as vitamin A (retinol) , vitamin C (ascorbic acid) , vitamin E (tocopherol) , vitamin B5 (panthenol) , vitamin B3 (niacinamide) , and derivatives of said vitamins (in particular esters) and mixtures thereof; urea; caffeine; salicylic acid and derivatives thereof; alpha-hydroxyacids such as lactic acid or glycolic acid and derivatives thereof; sunscreens; extracts from algae, fungi, plants, yeasts and bacteria (such as prunus cerasus fruit extract) ; enzymes; humectants and moisturizers (such as sodium hyaluronate, calcium PCA) ; emollients (such as mangifera indica seed butter) ; anti-inflammatory agents; agents acting on the microcirculation, and mixtures thereof.
It is easy for the skilled in the art to adjust the amount of the additional cosmetic active ingredient based on the final use of the composition according to the present invention.
Additional adjuvants or additives
The composition may comprise may also contain conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives in the aqueous phase or the oily phase depending on their nature, for instance fragrances, chelating agents (for example, sodium phytate, tetrasodium glutamate diacetate and disodium EDTA) , preserving agents (for example, hydroxyacetophenone, pentylene glycol, and phenoxyethanol) and bactericides, pH regulators (for example citric acid ) , fillers (for example, zea mays (corn) starch) and mixtures thereof.
The skilled in the art can select the amount of the additional adjuvants or additive so as not to adversely impact the final use of the composition according to the present invention.
Preferably, the weight ratio of the water insoluble substrate and the aqueous composition ranges from 1∶6 to 1∶30. More preferably, the weight ratio of the water insoluble substrate and the composition ranges from 1∶12 to 1∶25.
According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the present invention provides a mask for caring for keratin materials, comprising:
A) a water insoluble substrate selected from gauze tissues, alginate tissues, and a mixture thereof;
B) an aqueous composition impregnated into the substrate comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:
a) a combination of hydrophilic thickeners comprising, :
i) from 0.2 wt. %to 0.6 wt. %of a carbomer; and
ii) from 0.15 wt. %to 0.6 wt. %of a copolymer of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate and of acrylic or methacrylic acid or a ester thereof;
b) from 0.12 wt. %to 0.5 wt. %of a saponification agent selected from monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, tromethamine, and a mixture thereof; and
c) at least one cosmetic active ingredient;
wherein the weight ratio of the water insoluble substrate and the composition ranges from 1∶12 to 1∶25.
Galenic form and use
The mask according to the present invention can be used as a lip mask or a face mask and is intended for topical administration and for skincare.
According to the second aspect, the present invention provides a non-therapeutic process for caring for keratin materials, comprising:
(i) applying the mask according to the present invention on the keratin materials;
(ii) allowing the mask to remain on the keratin materials for a period of time; and
(iii) removing the mask from the keratin materials.
Preferably, the application time is from 5 minutes to 45 minutes, preferably from 10 minutes to 30 minutes.
In particular, the keratin materials are the face or the lips.
The following examples serve to illustrate the present invention without, however, being limiting in nature.
EXAMPLES
Main raw materials used for preparing compositions for masks, trade names and supplier thereof are listed in Table 1.
Table 1
Substrates used: a gauze tissue, sold under the tradename MBT-S60 by HANGZHOU XIEYE MICROFIBER FABRICS CO. LTD, the composition thereof comprises Lyocell fiber (1.4 dtex*5mm) and cotton gauze (40S-28*24) .
Invention Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-2
Compositions of invention examples (IE. ) 1 and comparative examples (CE. ) 1-2 were prepared according to the amounts given in Table 2. The amount of each component is given in %by weight of the total weight of the composition.
Table 2
| Ingredients | IE. 1 | CE. 1 | CE. 2 |
| Panthenol | 0.60 | - | 0.60 |
| Water | QS100 | QS100 | QS100 |
| Caprylyl/capryl glucoside | 0.10 | - | 0.10 |
| Sodium hyaluronate | 0.05 | - | 0.05 |
| Glycerin | 7.00 | 4.00 | 7.00 |
| Carbomer | 0.30 | - | 0.30 |
| Acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer | 0.25 | 0.30 | 0.25 |
| Pentylene glycol | 2.50 | - | 2.50 |
| Tromethamine | 0.18 | - | - |
| Potassium Hydroxide | - | 0.08 | - |
| Propanediol | 5.00 | - | 5.00 |
| Sodium polyacrylate | - | 0.05 | - |
| Calcium PCA | 0.05 | - | 0.05 |
| PrunuS cerasus fruit extract | 0.10 | - | 0.10 |
| Hydroxyacetophenone | 0.50 | 0.50 | 0.50 |
| Phenoxyethanol | - | 0.20 | - |
| Sodium phytate | 0.10 | - | 0.10 |
Composition of invention example 1 represents the aqueous composition according to the present invention.
Composition of comparative example 1 comprises sodium polyacrylate instead of a homopolymer of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid or ethacrylic acid or an ester thereof.
Composition of comparative example 1 comprises no saponification agent.
Preparation process:
The compositions listed above were prepared as follows, taking composition of invention example 1 as an example.
For the purpose of clarity, the components for composition of invention example 1 are divided into A) -E) phases as shown in Table 3.
Table 3
1) . Introduce phase A
Water of phase A was added into a vessel, then all other components of phase A were added into the vessel, followed by heating up to 65℃ while mixing,
2) . Introduce phase B
Components of phase B were added into the vessel, mixing was remained till the mixture became uniform.
3) . Introduce phase C
The mixture was diluted with water of phase C.
4) . Introduce D and E.
Mixing was remained till the mixture became uniform, then the mixture was cooled down, and components of phase D were added when the temperature was below 40℃, mixing was remained till the mixture became uniform, then the mixture was cooled down to 30℃, then components of phase E were added, the mixing was remained till the mixture became uniform, to obtain the composition.
A mask was prepared by filling the substrate with the composition of invention example 1, wherein the weight ratio of the substrate used and the composition is 1∶15.
Evaluation:
Viscosity
The viscosity of each composition obtained was measured at 25℃, using a Rheomat 100 Plus viscometer equipped with a spindle M3, the measurement being performed after 10 minutes of rotation of the spindle in the composition (after which time stabilization of the viscosity and of the spin speed of the spindle are observed) , at a shear rate of 200 rpm. The results were listed in Table 4.
Table 4
| Properties | IE. 1 | CE. 1 | CE. 2 |
| Viscosity (uD) | 26 | 20 | 45 |
It was observed by a microscope that there is a jelly texture formed in the composition of invention example 1, while there is no jelly texture formed in compositions of comparative examples 1 and 2.
Adherence
Adherence indicates the ability of a tissue to resist to sliding. Adherence can be characterized by a static friction. The bigger the static friction is, the better the adherence is.
The characterization can be carried out with a Friction-Peel Tester as follows:
- unfold a wet mask to be tested from a sachet, place it between two thin plastic films;
- cut the mask into samples with a size of 2cm *7cm;
- place the test sample on a bio-skin with one short side clamped for about 1 cm and without any plastic film during installing the sample, avoid attaching on it directly to remove any composition therein;
- give a pressure of 50g on the test sample with a sled wrapped with a thin plastic film for about 10s, then remove it gently before the clamp start moving. The test continues until the test sample has moved forward for 130mm.
- repeat the same test with other two samples, ensuring the position of the sample on the bio-skin is different.
It will be desired if the friction is not less than 0.1N.
The friction values tested were averaged and the results were summarized in Table 5.
Table 5
| Properties | IE. 1 |
| Staticfriction (N) | 0.274 |
It can be seen that the mask of invention composition 1 has good adherence.
Delivery Capacity and Evaporation Rate
The mask of invention example 1 and a commercial available lip mask (SEPHORA SHEA LIP MASK available from the company SEPHORA (Shanghai) Cosmetic Co. Ltd. ) were evaluated in terms of delivery capacity and evaporate rate.
Delivery capacity is used to indicate the amount of the cosmetic composition of the mask deposited on the skin and penetrated to the skin, which was evaluated as follows:
1. prepare one piece of dry nonwoven tissue, and weight it as W
wipes-T0;
2. apply the mask to be tested on a skin FX mannequin for 20 minutes and then remove it;
3. use the weighed dry nonwoven tissue to wipe the residual composition on the mannequin, and weighed the tissue for W
wipes-T20.
The delivery capacity was calculated according to the following equation:
Delivery capacity (mg/cm
2) = (W
wipes-T20min -W
wipes-T0) /A
mask
A
mask= the area of the mask tested
W
wipes = the weight of the tissue
The results of delivery capacity were summarized in Table 6.
Table 6
It can be seen that the mask of invention example 1 has higher delivery capacity as compared with the commercial available lip mask.
The evaporation rate can be tested as follows:
1. prepare a mask sample of 2.00-2.20 g;
2. put the mask sample in a moisturizer analyser and set up the programming into “Low temperature” mode (40 ℃) ;
3. record the evaporation rate after the test was continued for 15 minutes.
The results of evaporation rate were summarized in Table 7.
Table 7
Lower evaporation rate means the substrate can hold more active ingredients and increase delivery capacity to the skin.
It can be seen that the mask of invention example 1 can hold more active and has higher delivery capacity as compared with the commercial available lip mask.
Trans Epidermal Water Loss (TEWL) Test
Trans epidermal water loss (TEWL) of the mask of invention example 1 was measured as follows.
Inclusion Criteria:
- 23 women from 22 to 65 years old with a TEWL value ≥ 6 g. m
-2. h
-1 on the inner surface of the forearms.
Application:
Single standardized application of the product by a technician of BIO-EC on previously defined areas on the inner surface of the forearm (13 cm
2) as follows.
- Take the mask out of its case;
- Apply the mask;
- Remove the mask after 15 minutes exposure time.
Trans epidermal water loss was determined with a
TEWL-meter at immediately (T0) and one hour (T1H) after the mask to be tested was removed.
The results of trans epidermal water loss were summarized in Table 8.
Table 8
S: significantly; NS: not significantly.
It can be seen that the mask of invention example 1 significantly decreases the trans epidermal water loss 1 hour after single application. There is a significant difference in comparison with the control area, indicating that the mask of invention example 1 has a very high dermoprotective effect.
Consumer Test
The mask of invention example 1 was subjected to a consumer test as follows.
Inclusion Criteria:
● Women aged 20-50 years old;
● All Chinese women;
● 50%of sensitive skin/50%of non-sensitive skin
● All casual users of lips balm or lips makeup;
● All having dry or very dry lips, and having chapping from time to time;
● No quota on ethnicity.
The mask to be test was applied by users under conditions of normal use and self-assessment, respectively. Then the users were invited to fill 3 self-administered questionnaires based on a 5 points-scale (Agree/somewhat agree/neither agree-nor disagree/somewhat disagree/disagree) :
- right after the 1
st application: 7 items
- after the 1
st week of test: 19 items
- after 4 weeks of test: 29 items
The results were summarized in Tables 9 and 10.
Table 9
Table 10
It can be concluded that the mask of invention example 1 meets the requirements of consumers.
Claims (15)
- A mask for caring for keratin materials, comprising:A) a water insoluble substrate selected from gauze tissues, jellified tissues, and a combination thereof;B) an aqueous composition impregnated into the substrate comprising:a) a combination of hydrophilic thickeners comprising:i) a homopolymer of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid or ethacrylic acid or an ester thereof; andii) a copolymer of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate and of acrylic or methacrylic acid or ethacrylic acid or a ester thereof;b) at least one at least one saponification agent; andc) at least one cosmetic active ingredient.
- The mask according to claim 1, wherein the jellified tissues are alginate tissues consisting of water insoluble alginate fibers.
- The mask according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the water insoluble substrate has a basis weight ranging from 40 g/m 2 to 60 g/m 2.
- The mask according to any of claims 1-3, wherein the fiber from which the water insoluble substrate is made of has a fineness ranging from 1.3 dtex to 2.2 dtex.
- The mask according to any of claims 1-4, wherein the homopolymer of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid or ethacrylic acid or an ester thereof is selected from homopolymers of acrylic acid crosslinked with allyl ethers of sucrose or pentaerytritol.
- The mask according to any of claims 1-5, wherein the copolymer of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate and of acrylic or methacrylic acid or ethacrylic acid or a ester thereof is selected from copolymers of:at least one monomer of following formula (1) :
in which R 1 denotes H or CH 3 or C 2H 5, andat least one monomer of unsaturated carboxylic acid (C10-C30) alkyl ester type which corresponds to the monomer of following formula (2) :
in which R 2 denotes H or CH 3 or C 2H 5 and and R 3 denotes a C10-C30 alkyl radical. - The mask according to any of claims 1-6, wherein the homopolymer of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid or ethacrylic acid or an ester thereof is present in an amount ranging from 0.05 wt.%to 1 wt. %, preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 0.8 wt. %, more preferably from 0.2 wt. %to 0.6 wt.%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- The mask according to any of claims 1-7, wherein the copolymer of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate and of acrylic or methacrylic acid or ethacrylic acid or a ester thereof is present in an amount ranging from 0.05 wt. %to 1 wt. %, preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 0.8 wt. %, more preferably from 0.15 wt. %to 0.6 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- The mask according to any of claims 1-8, wherein the saponification agent is selected from alkali metal hydroxides, alkaline earth metal hydroxides, ammonium hydroxide, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, tromethamine, N-methylglucamine, arginine, lysine, arginine, and a mixture thereof.
- The mask according to any of claims 1-9, wherein the saponification agent is present in an amount ranging from 0.05 wt. %to 0.9 wt. %, preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 0.7 wt. %, preferably from 0.12 wt. %to 0.5 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- The mask according to any of claims 1-10, wherein the cosmetic active ingredient is selected from natural extracts; vitamins and derivatives thereof; urea; caffeine; salicylic acid and derivatives thereof; alpha-hydroxyacids and derivatives thereof; sunscreens; extracts from algae, fungi, plants, yeasts and bacteria; enzymes; humectants and moisturizers; emollients; anti-inflammatory agents; agents acting on the microcirculation, and mixtures thereof.
- The mask according to any of claims 1-11, wherein the aqueous composition has a viscosity ranging from 10 UD to 50 UD, preferably from 15 UD to 35 UD, as measured at 25℃ using a Rheomat 100 Plus viscometer equipped with a spindle M3 rotating at 200 rpm.
- The mask according to any of claims 1-12, wherein the weight ratio of the water insoluble substrate and the composition ranges from 1: 6 to 1: 30, preferably, from 1: 12 to 1: 25.
- The mask according to claim 1, comprising:A) a water insoluble substrate selected from gauze tissues, alginate tissues, and a mixture thereof;B) an aqueous composition impregnated into the substrate comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:a) a combination of hydrophilic thickeners comprising, :i) from 0.2 wt. %to 0.6 wt. %of a carbomer; andii) from 0.15 wt. %to 0.6 wt. %of a copolymer of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate and of acrylic or methacrylic acid or a ester thereof;b) from 0.12 wt. %to 0.5 wt. %of a saponification agent selected from monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, tromethamine, and a mixture thereof; andc) at least one cosmetic active ingredient;wherein the weight ratio of the water insoluble substrate and the composition ranges from 1: 12 to 1: 25.
- A non-therapeutic process for caring for keratin materials, comprising:(i) applying the mask according to any of claims 1-14 on the keratin materials;(ii) allowing the mask to remain on the keratin materials for a period of time; and(iii) removing the mask from the keratin materials.
Priority Applications (5)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| PCT/CN2021/114513 WO2023023973A1 (en) | 2021-08-25 | 2021-08-25 | Mask for caring for keratin materials |
| BR112023023443A BR112023023443A2 (en) | 2021-08-25 | 2021-08-25 | KERATIN MATERIALS TREATMENT MASK |
| EP21954513.4A EP4391988A1 (en) | 2021-08-25 | 2021-08-25 | Mask for caring for keratin materials |
| CN202180101781.1A CN117858690A (en) | 2021-08-25 | 2021-08-25 | Mask for caring keratin materials |
| FR2110203A FR3126303B1 (en) | 2021-08-25 | 2021-09-28 | Mask for the care of keratinous materials |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| PCT/CN2021/114513 WO2023023973A1 (en) | 2021-08-25 | 2021-08-25 | Mask for caring for keratin materials |
Publications (1)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| WO2023023973A1 true WO2023023973A1 (en) | 2023-03-02 |
Family
ID=85321598
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| PCT/CN2021/114513 WO2023023973A1 (en) | 2021-08-25 | 2021-08-25 | Mask for caring for keratin materials |
Country Status (5)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| EP (1) | EP4391988A1 (en) |
| CN (1) | CN117858690A (en) |
| BR (1) | BR112023023443A2 (en) |
| FR (1) | FR3126303B1 (en) |
| WO (1) | WO2023023973A1 (en) |
Citations (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| WO2008057245A2 (en) * | 2006-10-26 | 2008-05-15 | Momentive Performance Materials Inc. | Water-based skin care composition with polyalkylsilsesquioxane powder emulsion and method for making the same |
| EP2465490A2 (en) * | 2010-12-17 | 2012-06-20 | Johnson & Johnson Consumer Companies Inc. | Compositions comprising Lilium Siberia extracts and uses thereof |
Family Cites Families (5)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| WO2002062312A1 (en) | 2001-02-08 | 2002-08-15 | The Procter & Gamble Company | Mask composition |
| JP6601807B2 (en) | 2017-11-10 | 2019-11-06 | 株式会社エイエムジー | Face mask |
| CN112334124A (en) * | 2018-06-28 | 2021-02-05 | 莱雅公司 | Kit for caring for skin |
| WO2020133361A1 (en) * | 2018-12-29 | 2020-07-02 | L'oreal | Kit for caring for the skin |
| CN114667129B (en) * | 2019-09-25 | 2023-10-20 | 莱雅公司 | Kit for caring for keratin materials |
-
2021
- 2021-08-25 CN CN202180101781.1A patent/CN117858690A/en active Pending
- 2021-08-25 WO PCT/CN2021/114513 patent/WO2023023973A1/en active Application Filing
- 2021-08-25 EP EP21954513.4A patent/EP4391988A1/en active Pending
- 2021-08-25 BR BR112023023443A patent/BR112023023443A2/en unknown
- 2021-09-28 FR FR2110203A patent/FR3126303B1/en active Active
Patent Citations (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| WO2008057245A2 (en) * | 2006-10-26 | 2008-05-15 | Momentive Performance Materials Inc. | Water-based skin care composition with polyalkylsilsesquioxane powder emulsion and method for making the same |
| EP2465490A2 (en) * | 2010-12-17 | 2012-06-20 | Johnson & Johnson Consumer Companies Inc. | Compositions comprising Lilium Siberia extracts and uses thereof |
Also Published As
| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| CN117858690A (en) | 2024-04-09 |
| EP4391988A1 (en) | 2024-07-03 |
| FR3126303A1 (en) | 2023-03-03 |
| BR112023023443A2 (en) | 2024-03-12 |
| FR3126303B1 (en) | 2024-03-15 |
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