WO2022268401A1

WO2022268401A1 - Substrates containing soapworts

Info

Publication number: WO2022268401A1
Application number: PCT/EP2022/062625
Authority: WO
Inventors: Lara Stegmann; Cecile Ratschow
Original assignee: Beiersdorf Ag
Priority date: 2021-06-22
Filing date: 2022-05-10
Publication date: 2022-12-29
Also published as: DE102021206393A1; EP4359087A1

Abstract

The present application relates to a cosmetic product in solid form for cleansing of the human skin, comprising a binder and a biogenic filling material, wherein the biogenic filling material comprises at least one saponin-containing constituent. The saponin-containing constituent preferably consists of comminuted constituents of the roots of the plants Saponaria officinalis or Gypsophila paniculata.

Description

Substrates with soap roots

In general, cosmetic products not only serve to look beautiful and attractive, but with their effect they make a decisive contribution to increased self-esteem and the well-being of people. Accordingly, a wide variety of cosmetic products are used for the daily cleaning and care of human skin.

Conventional cleaning formulations are most often sold in the form of a liquid, aqueous formulation or as a bar of soap. All products are applied to the skin in a conventional manner by hand.

Typical examples of cleaning formulations in the form of shower gels are disclosed in WO1 994010975A1, WO1993021900A1 and WO2002005758A2.

A particular disadvantage of shower gels is that significant amounts of water are transported from the supplier to the stores and on to the customer to provide the customer with the cleansing formula of their choice. Considering that most customers' homes are connected to the public water supply, it doesn't make ecological sense to ship water to a place that has basically unlimited access to water.

Accordingly, new concepts are required for the provision and application of cleaning products.

On the website https://huerban.wordpress.com/2014/04/16/haare-washen-mit-seifenkraut/ methods are disclosed which disclose the production of his shampoo based on soapwort.

Soapwort (Saponaria officinalis) is a plant whose components, especially its roots, contain saponins. The name was derived from an essential property: when the roots are crushed and rubbed together in water, they foam up like soap. Other well-known names of common soapwort include: soapwort, soapwort, soapwort, red soaproot or cough root. l Another plant that contains saponins is Gypsophila (Gypsophila paniculata).

The fact that very few consumers are willing to produce a cleaning product themselves from plant components is problematic.

There is also a need for cosmetic products that are easy to use.

Surprisingly, it has now been possible to provide a cosmetic cleaning product that meets the requirements.

The subject matter of the present invention is a cosmetic product comprising a) a binder and b) a biogenic filling material, characterized in that the biogenic filling material comprises at least one saponin-containing component.

Another subject of the invention is a method for cleansing the skin, characterized in that the cosmetic product of the invention is moistened with water and applied to the skin.

The invention also relates to a method for producing the cosmetic product according to the invention, comprising the steps

(a) Providing and mixing a biogenic filling material and a binder to form a moldable and hardenable base material binder

mixture,

(b) introducing the base material-binder mixture between pressing surfaces of a pressing device, wherein at least one of the pressing surfaces advantageously has a three-dimensional surface contour that gives the shape,

(c) pressing the base material-binder mixture to obtain the cosmetic product.

Surprisingly, it was found that after the cosmetic product has been moistened with water on the skin, it can form a cleansing foam which can then be rinsed off with water. It was surprisingly possible in this way to provide a reusable product which is at least partially protected against decomposition by the binder. The product can be used several times. Another object of the invention is the use of the cosmetic product, advantageously in combination with water, for cleaning human skin.

If weight percentages (% by weight) are given below without reference to a specific composition or specific mixture, these details always relate to the total weight of the product. If ratios of components/substances/groups of substances are disclosed below, these ratios relate to weight ratios of the components/

Substances/groups of substances.

If weight percentage ranges are given below for the components of the product, the disclosure of the present application also includes all individual values in increments of 0.1% by weight within these weight percentage ranges.

In the context of the present disclosure, the phrases “according to the invention”, “advantageous according to the invention”, “advantageous in the sense of the present invention” etc. always refer to both the product according to the invention and the use according to the invention and the method.

Unless otherwise stated, all tests were carried out under normal conditions. The term "normal conditions" means 20°C, 1013 hPa and a relative humidity of 50%.

If the term skin is used, it preferably refers to human skin.

All of the substances listed below are named using their INCI declaration or a clear chemical name.

Emulsifiers are understood to mean all substances that are listed in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, Thirteenth Edition 2010, (ISBN 1-882621-47-6) under the designation "emulsifying agent". Surfactants are understood to be all substances that are listed under the name “surfactant” in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, Thirteenth Edition 2010, (ISBN 1-882621-47-6). According to the invention, biogenic filling material is understood to mean material which is of biological or organic origin or has arisen from life or living beings.

The cosmetic product is advantageously designed in such a way that it is in the form of a sponge, so that at least one surface has a size of 10 to 100 cm ² . Furthermore, it is advantageous if at least one surface of the cosmetic product has a surface with—preferably a large number of—elevations and depressions. The elevations and depressions advantageously have concave and/or convex curvatures. Such a design surprisingly made it possible to increase the cleaning performance of the product. It is advantageous if the surface has harmoniously flowing wave forms, in a strictly geometric design in the form of a dome, stripes or waffles, or also as an irregular arrangement with or without repetition, in order to achieve optical and design effects.

Furthermore, it is advantageous if the biogenic filling material is in the form of particles. By using particulate filling material, a better, more even sensory and cleaning performance could be achieved.

Furthermore, it is advantageous if the biogenic filling material is suspended in the binder.

Advantageous embodiments are characterized in that the filling material has a bulk density of less than 400 kg/m ³ , preferably less than 350 kg/m ³ .

Advantageous embodiments are characterized in that the filling material has a length of 0.01 to 10 mm, preferably 0.1 to 5 mm, preferably 1 to 30 mm, and particularly preferably 2 to 20 mm. In the specification, the length designates the maximum particle diameter determined in each case per particle.

It is particularly advantageous if the biogenic filling material comprises at least one saponin-containing component. Such components may advantageously be root components of roots containing saponins. These were preferably crushed to enable better cleaning performance. Advantageously, the biogenic filling material comprises at least one plant component which has at least a proportion by weight of 2% of saponins based on the total weight of the plant component.

Beneficial saponin-containing components are selected from components of the plants Saponaria officinalis, Gypsophila paniculata and Gysophila species.

In particular, root components, such as comminuted roots, are used as components of the plants.

It is particularly advantageous to include comminuted roots of Saponaria officinalis and/or Gypsophila paniculata as a plant component.

Roots of Saponaria officinalis contain 2.8 to 8.6% saponins (source: Hager). The roots of Gypsophila paniculata and other Gysophila species can contain up to 20% saponin mixture (source: Hager).

The particle size of the plant components used is advantageously in the range from 0.01 to 10 mm. The particle size describes the largest measurable diameter of the particle.

The proportion of saponin-containing components or of the biogenic filling material which contains saponins is advantageously from 10 to 70% by weight, preferably from 20 to 60% by weight and in particular 30 to 55% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic product.

Furthermore, it is advantageous if the biogenic filling material additionally comprises at least one other material selected from natural fibers made from hemp, straw, flax, kenaf, coconut, stinging nettles, bamboo, wool, cellulose, jute, reed, cotton, wood fibers, natural polymers or mixtures thereof . Hemp, wood or mixtures thereof are particularly preferred.

It can also be provided that the binder is selected from the group consisting of water glass, emulsion polymer isocyanate, formaldehyde resin, water-based acrylate and styrene acrylate dispersion, methyl cellulose, methyl cellulose ester, linseed oil, gluten glue, casein glue, starch glue, pozzolan, polyvinyl alcohol, casein, casein glue, Lime Casein, Epoxy and Polyester Resin, Isocyanate, Polyurethane, PV Ac Glue, UF, Polyvinyl alcohol, UV glue, HF glue and phenolic glue or combinations thereof. Binders of biogenic origin are preferred. Particularly preferably selected from the group of methyl cellulose, methyl cellulose ester, linseed oil, gluten glue, casein glue, polyvinyl alcohol, starch glue, pozzolan, casein, casein glue, lime casein.

Provision is particularly preferably made for the binder to be selected from the group consisting of PVAc glue, UF, methyl cellulose ester, polyvinyl alcohol, starch glue, casein glue, UV glue and HF glue or combinations thereof.

In one embodiment of the invention, it can be provided that the binder comprises a hydraulic binder such as cement, gypsum, magnesia binder or lime.

The proportion of the binder is advantageously from 10 to 70% by weight, 20 to 60% by weight, 25 to 55% by weight and 30 to 50% by weight, based on the cosmetic product.

In a preferred embodiment it is provided that the filling material consists exclusively of materials of biogenic origin. Hemp shives and/or wood shavings are preferred as components. In one embodiment, it can be provided that the product is 100% biodegradable according to DIN EN 13432. This can be achieved, for example, by using materials of biogenic origin throughout the product.

With regard to the production method, it can therefore be provided that a binder and a filler of biogenic origin are mixed and introduced between pressing surfaces. To form the acoustically effective surfaces, the pressing surfaces have a negative shape with concave and/or convex elevations and depressions with different radii and heights for the transmission of corresponding structures. The mixture is pressed and the binder is cured.

For the simple and inexpensive production of the cosmetic product according to the invention with a three-dimensional surface structure, a base material - binder - mixture is used, which is pressed in a pressing device with the mold in which the three-dimensional surface structure is defined to form a sponge in any shape of your choice.

A membrane vacuum press, a roller press or a hydraulic pressing device can be used for production. The pressing surfaces can be heatable in order to shorten the cycle time. The pressing pressure depends on the material recipe varies and can in particular be 1-3 bar, but also be significantly higher at 20 bar. According to the invention, it is possible first to press thin panels and then to thicken them with additional binder and biogenic filling material via further pressing processes. Alternatively, it is possible according to the invention to use the thin panels directly, ie the result of one or more pressing processes, for cleaning the skin. Furthermore, it is also possible according to the invention to apply the panels obtained to another biogenic material and to connect it to it, for example by gluing with the binder. Depending on the nature of the biogenic material, a thicker cosmetic product that is easy to handle is obtained. A typical example of a suitable biogenic material would be cork.

At least one of the pressing surfaces is advantageously equipped with a shaping three-dimensional structure, this structure being designed as a negative mold of the desired shape of the cosmetic product. For example, this negative form can have harmonious waves, different waves or a strictly geometrically arranged waffle pattern.

The binder can, for example, be sprayed, dripped or added in some other way before the pressing process. The mixing of the binder and the biogenic filling material can preferably take place in a drum mixer, but also with conventional stirring and mixing devices and also manually with an electric stirrer.

Furthermore, the binder - biogenic filling material - mixture can also be produced in a vacuum table or vacuum bag, with the mixture being evacuated and thereby pressed under an absolute pressure of maximum 700 mbar, in particular maximum 400 mbar, while the mixture hardens. With complete evacuation, an absolute pressure of 0-50 mbar is reached depending on the material moisture and temperature. Depending on the filling material, evacuation is also carried out to about 50 - 400 mbar absolute, since in this process the raw density can also be determined via the applied absolute pressure. For this purpose, it is particularly advantageous that no shaping mold is required either, since an optically shaping three-dimensional structure can be achieved by contracting the vacuum bag.

The binders used include: those based on water glass, emulsion polymer isocyanate, formaldehyde resins (melamine, urea...), water-based acrylate and styrene acrylate dispersions, methyl cellulose, linseed oil, gluten, casein, starch glues, pozzolan, casein , lime casein, epoxy and polyester resins, isocyanate, Polyurethane and conventional polymer compounds such as PVAc glues, UF, W glues and HF glues. However, all hydraulic binders such as cement, gypsum, magnesia binders or lime can also be used. Mixtures of two or more of the components mentioned are also possible.

The choice of binder significantly influences the water resistance as well as the mechanical and cleaning properties of the product.

The following particles, fibers and tufts can be used as an example of additional filler: These are preferably made from hemp, straw, flax, kenaf, coconut, stinging nettles, bamboo, wool, cellulose, jute, reed, cotton or hard fibers such as wood of various types and others natural polymers selected. In addition, synthetic fibers such as glass wool, Kevlar, glass fiber and other chemical fibers or synthetic polymers or a combination of natural fibers and synthetic fibers such as textiles can also be used.

The fillers used can go through various mechanical, chemical, biological and weather-related processing steps in order to be optimally prepared - these are: cutting, grinding, chopping, squeezing, mapping, lying, fanning out, unraveling, steam digestion, ultrasound, drying and moistening.

Furthermore, depending on the requirements, the fillers can be brought to different lengths, e.g. by chopping, grating, milling, sieving.

A combination of two or more additional biogenic filling materials in fiber form with different lengths can also be seen, as well as the addition of plant material, which in itself does not have good fiber properties, but increases the quality of the product, e.g. in terms of pest resistance. This can be done, for example, by adding tansy. Furthermore, a wide variety of additives such as e.g. ammonium salt, soda and silicic acid can be added, e.g. to increase its fire resistance or to prevent damage by pests. In addition, the manufactured products can also be subsequently sprayed, painted, rolled, dipped, irradiated, impregnated or otherwise treated in order to change the properties.

Examples of materials for cosmetic products according to the invention are listed below in the table: The following particles were used:

The table below specifies mixtures of biogenic filling material and binders that are used to produce the cosmetic product. The percentages refer to the total weight of the mixture:

Claims

patent claims

1. Cosmetic product comprising a. A binder and b. A biogenic filler, characterized in that the biogenic filler comprises at least one saponin-containing component.

2. Cosmetic product according to claim 1, characterized in that biogenic filling material is present in particulate form.

3. Cosmetic product according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the biogenic filling material is suspended in the binder.

4. Cosmetic product according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that biogenic filling material has a bulk density of less than 400 kg/m ³ , preferably less than 350 kg/m ³ .

5. Cosmetic product according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the biogenic filling material comprises at least one plant component which has at least a proportion by weight of 2% of saponins, based on the total weight of the plant component.

6. Cosmetic product according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the saponin-containing components are selected from components of the plants Saponaria officinalis, Gypsophila paniculata and Gysophila species.

7. Cosmetic product according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that root components, such as comminuted roots, are used as the saponin-containing components.

8. Cosmetic product according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the proportion of saponin-containing components or of the biogenic filling material which contains saponins is from 10 to 70% by weight, preferably from 20 to 60% by weight and in particular 30 to 55% by weight % by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic product.

9. Cosmetic product according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the biogenic filling material is additionally selected from at least one other material from natural fibers from hemp, straw, flax, kenaf, coconut, stinging nettles, bamboo, wool, cellulose, jute, reed, cotton, wood fibers , natural polymers or mixtures thereof.

10. Cosmetic product according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the binder is selected from the group consisting of water glass, emulsion polymer isocyanate, formaldehyde resin, acrylate and styrene acrylate dispersion water-based, methyl cellulose, methyl cellulose ester, linseed oil, gluten glue, casein glue, starch glue, pozzolan, casein, casein glue, lime casein, epoxy and polyester resin, isocyanate, polyurethane, PV Ac glue, UF, polyvinyl alcohol, W glue, HF glue and phenolic glue or combinations from it.

11. Cosmetic product according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the proportion of the binder is from 10 to 70% by weight, 20 to 60% by weight, 25 to 55% by weight and 30 to 50% by weight. , based on the cosmetic product.

12. A method for producing the cosmetic product according to any one of the preceding claims comprising the steps

(a) providing and mixing a biogenic filling material and a binder to form a moldable and hardenable base material-binder mixture,

(c) pressing the base material-binder mixture to obtain the cosmetic product.

13. Use of the cosmetic product according to any one of claims 1 to 11, advantageously in combination with water, for cleansing human skin.