WO2022145808A1 - Oil-in-water-type cosmetic composition comprising oil-gelling agent and preparation method therefor - Google Patents
Oil-in-water-type cosmetic composition comprising oil-gelling agent and preparation method therefor Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- WO2022145808A1 WO2022145808A1 PCT/KR2021/018916 KR2021018916W WO2022145808A1 WO 2022145808 A1 WO2022145808 A1 WO 2022145808A1 KR 2021018916 W KR2021018916 W KR 2021018916W WO 2022145808 A1 WO2022145808 A1 WO 2022145808A1
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- WO
- WIPO (PCT)
- Prior art keywords
- oil
- cosmetic composition
- wax
- water
- inorganic particles
- Prior art date
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- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 83
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
- A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
- A61K2800/33—Free of surfactant
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/48—Thickener, Thickening system
Definitions
- the present invention relates to an oil-in-water cosmetic composition
- an oil-in-water cosmetic composition comprising an oil, an oil gelling agent, and inorganic particles, and more particularly, to an oil; an oil gelling agent including a polyurethane-based polymer, an amino acid-based compound, and a wax; And it relates to an oil-in-water cosmetic composition comprising inorganic particles, wherein the oil gelled by the oil gelling agent is absorbed by the inorganic particles, and the gelled oil absorbed by the inorganic particles is dispersed in an aqueous phase, and a method for preparing the same.
- Cosmetics are originally used as a means to strengthen or restore the original defense function against the influence of the external environment, for example, dust, chemicals, microorganisms, and the like, internal substances, for example, water, fat, electrolyte, and the like.
- Another purpose of cosmetics, especially basic cosmetics, is to supplement the loss of moisture and fat in the skin caused by daily washing. In particular, it can play a very important role when the skin's ability to self-heal is insufficient.
- Emulsification simply refers to a phase comprising a fine phase surrounded by an emulsifier.
- the fine phase is water particles, it is a water-in-oil emulsion, and if it is an oil particle, it is an oil-in-water emulsion.
- emulsification requires a surfactant (emulsifier) because one liquid must be semi-permanently dispersed in another.
- surfactants are molecules having an amphiphilic structure and have a hydrophilic moiety and a lipophilic moiety.
- finely dispersed particles in a single phase are covered with an emulsifying film.
- the surfactant is located at the interface between the two liquids and serves to lower the interfacial tension, and forms an oil/water interface film at the phase boundary to prevent the particles from coalescing with each other.
- surfactants Although various commercially available surfactants are used with safety approvals, chemical surfactants may nevertheless cause irritation or allergies. In addition, surfactants have a detrimental effect on the skin. Specifically, most surfactants tend to form micelles by solubilizing skin lipids like detergents, and when lipids are lost due to continued use of surfactants, the barrier layer is weakened and skin permeability is increased. The barrier layer with increased permeability loses moisture easily, resulting in dull and dry skin. In addition, penetration of foreign substances is facilitated, thereby causing a sensitive skin reaction. Because of the properties of these general surfactants, natural surfactants that can be obtained from nature were searched for, and among them, lecithin was used a lot.
- emulsification containing no surfactant there is an emulsification method using a similar surfactant or using a polymer having amphiphilic properties.
- the former is a method of making a stable emulsion by adding high-pressure energy after forming a temporary emulsification form using a similar surfactant (for example, US Patent US 6,777,450), and the latter is a method of emulsifying using a hydrophilic and lipophilic part in the polymer. way.
- these emulsification methods have the disadvantage that it is difficult to emulsify the water-in-oil type.
- Another method is pickering emulsification using organic or inorganic particles instead of surfactants.
- the particles used in place of the surfactant are well wetted by the dispersion medium but not well wetted by the dispersed phase.
- the wetting ability of the particles is directly related to the contact angle of the particles at the water-oil interface, so it is a very important property for the particles to align at the interface like the surfactant.
- Particles that wet well with water, such as silica will stabilize oil-in-water emulsification
- particles that wet well with oil, such as carbon black will stabilize water-in-oil emulsification.
- the particles are too hydrophilic or too lipophilic, the particles do not exist at the interface and are dispersed in water and oil, respectively.
- Patent Document 1 contains hydrophilic silica and lipophilic titanium dioxide in the inner layer to make oil-in-water emulsion
- Patent Document 2 Korean Patent Application No. 2002-0054603 discloses polymethylsilsesqui
- oxane an amphiphilic particle called oxane
- US Patents US 6,803,049 and US 5,833,951 have also reported on Pickering emulsification using inorganic particles.
- this Pickering emulsification has the advantage of improving the skin safety and feeling of use of the emulsion using the existing surfactant, but has the disadvantage of poor water resistance.
- the present inventors have been conducting research to develop a cosmetic that exhibits excellent effects as a cosmetic while improving skin itching or redness caused by a surfactant by not using a surfactant, and having the same feeling of use as an oil-in-water, the present invention was completed.
- an object of the present invention is to provide a method for preparing the surfactant-free cosmetic composition.
- the present invention oil; an oil gelling agent including a polyurethane-based polymer, an amino acid-based compound, and a wax; and inorganic particles, wherein the oil gelled by the oil gelling agent provides an oil-in-water cosmetic composition that is absorbed by the inorganic particles.
- the gelled oil absorbed by the inorganic particles according to the present invention can be dispersed in an aqueous phase to form an oil-in-water cosmetic composition without a surfactant.
- the oil-in-water cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be finely and stably dispersed in an aqueous phase without a surfactant. Accordingly, skin irritation such as skin itching or redness caused by the surfactant can be reduced. In addition, it is possible to obtain a cosmetic with excellent skin affinity, high skin absorption, good spreadability, and improved skin moisture while having an oil-in-water feeling. In addition, it is possible to develop a cosmetic product that makes the skin more moist because it can obtain a visually transparent effect, and it has good moisturizing power and can keep the skin flexible without surfactant.
- Example 1 is a photograph for a particle comparison test of the cosmetic composition of Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 according to Test Example 1.
- the present invention oil; an oil gelling agent including a polyurethane-based polymer, an amino acid-based compound, and a wax; And it provides an oil-in-water cosmetic composition comprising inorganic particles.
- the oil is gelled by the oil gelling agent, the oil gelled by the oil gelling agent is absorbed by the inorganic particles, and the gelled oil absorbed by the inorganic particles is dispersed in the aqueous phase.
- the gelled oil absorbed by the inorganic particles can be dispersed in the aqueous phase without a surfactant. That is, the gelled oil is absorbed by the inorganic particles, so that the oil does not coalesce with each other, thereby increasing formulation stability, and generating an electrostatic repulsive force between the inorganic particles in which the gelled oil is absorbed. As it is possible to maintain a uniform spacing between particles, it can be finely dispersed in the aqueous phase.
- Such a cosmetic composition can be applied to the skin transparently, has a feeling of use like water droplets bursting from the skin surface, and can form a formulation that can give a deep moisturizing feeling to the skin without irritation.
- the oil gelling agent may be 0.1 to 15% by weight, 0.1 to 12% by weight, 0.1 to 10% by weight, or 0.5 to 5% by weight, and most preferably 0.75 to 4.3% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
- the oil gelling agent is included in an amount of less than 0.1% by weight, gelation of the oil cannot be expected, and when it contains more than 15% by weight, the hardness is too high and the oil cannot be finely dispersed.
- the polyurethane-based polymer is HDI/trimethylolhexyllactone crosspolymer; And it may be at least one selected from the group consisting of HDI/PPG/polycaprolactone crosspolymer, preferably HDI/trimethylolhexyllactone crosspolymer.
- the amino acid-based compound may be a glutamide-based compound.
- the amino acid-based compound may be dibutyllauroylglutamide, dibutylethylhexanoylglutamide, or a combination thereof, preferably dibutyllauroylglutamide and dibutylethylhexanoylglutamide. It can be a combination.
- the wax may be a hydrocarbon-based wax.
- the wax may be one or more selected from the group consisting of ceresin wax, polyethylene wax, microcrystalline wax, paraffin wax, mineral wax including ozokerite, carnauba wax, and vegetable wax including candelilla wax, preferably Preferably, it may be microcrystalline wax.
- the combination of the polyurethane-based polymer, the amino acid-based compound, and the wax may gel the oil.
- the oil gelling agent of the above combination the melting points of each raw material are different, so that formulation stability can be wide.
- the inorganic particles may be porous inorganic particles.
- the inorganic particles are from the group consisting of silica, mica, sericite, titanium dioxide, iron oxide, zinc oxide, synthetic mica, alumina, boron nitride, polymethyl methacrylate, polymethylsilsesquioxane and polypropylsilsesquioxane It may be one or more selected, and preferably, the inorganic particles may be silica. Silica can easily stabilize oil-in-water emulsification because it wets well with aqueous phase components.
- the inorganic particles may be 1 to 10% by weight, preferably 3 to 8% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
- the inorganic particles When the inorganic particles are included in an amount of less than 1% by weight, the oil cannot be absorbed evenly, and when it is included in an amount of more than 10% by weight, there is a disadvantage in that the moisture and softness of the prepared contents are significantly lowered.
- the polyurethane-based polymer may be 0.01 to 1% by weight, 0.01 to 0.8% by weight, 0.03 to 0.8% by weight, 0.03 to 0.6% by weight, or 0.03 to 0.4% by weight, most preferably from 0.05 to 0.4% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition It may be 0.3% by weight.
- the amino acid-based compound may be 0.05 to 5% by weight, 0.1 to 4.5% by weight, 0.1 to 4% by weight, or 0.1 to 3.5% by weight, most preferably 0.2 to 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition .
- the dibutyl lauroyl glutamide is 0.05 to 3 wt %, 0.05 based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition to 2 wt%, or 0.1 to 1 wt%
- the dibutylethylhexanoylglutamide may be 0.05 to 3 wt%, 0.05 to 2 wt%, or 0.1 to 1 wt%.
- the wax may be 0.1 to 5% by weight, 0.3 to 4.5% by weight, 0.3 to 4% by weight, or 0.3 to 3% by weight, most preferably 0.5 to 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
- the oil phase component can be easily gelled, and the oil phase component can be stably dispersed in the aqueous phase without a surfactant.
- the aqueous phase may further include an aqueous phase thickener.
- the aqueous thickener is cellulose gum, hydroxyethyl cellulose, gellan gum, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, sodium polyacrylate starch, xanthan gum, hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, It may include at least one selected from the group consisting of polyacrylate-13, acrylate/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, carbomer, sodium polyacrylate and sodium acrylate copolymer, preferably xanthan gum or It may be an acrylate/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, and more preferably a combination of xanthan gum and an acrylate/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer.
- the aqueous thickener may be 0.01 to 2% by weight, 0.03 to 1.5% by weight, or 0.05 to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
- the water phase thickener comprises xanthan gum, an acrylate/C10-30 alkylacrylate crosspolymer, or a combination thereof
- the xanthan gum may be 0.01 to 1% by weight, or 0.01 to 0.5% by weight
- acrylic The rate/C10-30 alkylacrylate crosspolymer may be 0.01 to 1% by weight, or 0.05 to 0.5% by weight.
- the xanthan gum or acrylate/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer is included in an amount of less than 0.01% by weight, an appropriate thickening effect cannot be expected, and when it contains more than 1% by weight, the viscosity of the aqueous phase becomes too high. There is a disadvantage that the feeling of use of the contents becomes stiff.
- the oil gelled by the oil gelling agent including the polyurethane-based polymer, the amino acid-based compound and the wax is absorbed by the inorganic particles, and the gelled oil absorbed by the inorganic particles is absorbed by the aqueous thickener
- the network can be distributed over the formed water phase.
- the network may include a chain structure of a three-dimensional network. Since the aqueous thickener is a polymer component, these polymers have a high molecular weight and thus can form a three-dimensional network long chain structure in which chains and chains are entangled like a net.
- the oil-in-water cosmetic composition of the present invention may include an oil phase comprising an oil gelling agent, oil, and inorganic particles; and an aqueous phase comprising an aqueous thickener, a moisturizing agent, a preservative and a neutralizing agent.
- the moisturizing agent, preservative, neutralizing agent and flavoring agent may be used without limitation as long as they are commonly used in cosmetic compositions.
- the humectant may include one or more of glycerin, butylene glycol and glycereth-26, and humectants known in the art may be used without limitation.
- the moisturizing agent may be 0.1 to 10% by weight, 1 to 8% by weight, or 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
- the preservative may be hydroxyacetophenone, but any preservative known in the art may be used without limitation.
- the neutralizing agent may be one or more neutralizing agents selected from the group consisting of potassium hydroxide, sodium hydroxide, magnesium hydroxide, triethanolamine, tromethamine, arginine, and aminomethylpropanol, but known in the art Any neutralizing agent may be used without limitation.
- the neutralizing agent may be 0.01 to 0.5% by weight, 0.01 to 0.4% by weight, or 0.05 to 0.3% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
- the oil-in-water cosmetic composition may further include an additive including a fragrance.
- the oil phase may be included in an amount of 15 to 50% by weight based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, and the aqueous phase may be included in an amount of 50 to 85% by weight based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
- the oil gelled with an oil gelling agent without a surfactant can be dispersed in the aqueous phase, and the inorganic particles absorbing the gelled oil can stably and finely disperse the gelled oil in the aqueous phase.
- the oil may be included in an amount of 1 to 50% by weight, 5 to 40% by weight, or 10 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
- the oil is included in an amount of less than 1% by weight, an even distribution of the oil cannot be described as a whole, and when it includes more than 50% by weight, there is a disadvantage in that the stability of the prepared contents becomes unstable.
- the oil may include one or more selected from the group consisting of vegetable oil, mineral oil, hydrocarbon oil, ester oil, silicone oil, and synthetic oil, and is not limited to the type thereof, and is limited as long as it is an oil commonly used in cosmetics doesn't happen
- the oil is a hydrocarbon-based oil comprising cetylethylhexanoate or 2-octyldodecanol; Hydrogenated polyisobutene, caprylic/capric triglyceride, C12-15 alcohol benzoate, isopropyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, isopropyl myristate or butyloctyl salicylate ester-based oil comprising; vegetable oils including castor oil, olive oil or jojoba oil; animal oils including horse fat, mink oil, or egg yolk oil; mineral oil, including mineral oil, isododecane, polybutene or petrolatum; And at least one selected from the group consisting of silicone oil containing phenyltrimethicone, cyclomethicone, or dimethicone may be used.
- Synthetic oils may include sunscreens in addition to ether or ester oils.
- the present invention provides oil gelation comprising HDI/trimethylolhexyllactone crosspolymer, dibutyllauroylglutamide, dibutylethylhexanoylglutamide and microcrystalline wax
- oil gelation comprising HDI/trimethylolhexyllactone crosspolymer, dibutyllauroylglutamide, dibutylethylhexanoylglutamide and microcrystalline wax
- an oil-in-water cosmetic composition in which zero gelled oil is absorbed by silica.
- the present invention provides a method for preparing an oil-in-water cosmetic composition.
- the manufacturing method of the present invention comprises the steps of (A) preparing a first aqueous phase portion comprising an aqueous phase thickener; (B) an oil gelling agent comprising a polyurethane-based polymer, an amino acid-based compound, and a wax; preparing an oil phase by mixing inorganic particles and oil; and (C) stirring and mixing the first aqueous phase part and the oil phase part.
- the step (A) may be a step of preparing the first aqueous phase by mixing an aqueous thickener, a moisturizing agent, and a preservative, and more specifically, (A) is a step of mixing an aqueous thickener, a moisturizing agent, and a preservative to 1,000 at 60 to 90°C.
- It may be a step of preparing the first aqueous phase by mixing and stirring at a speed of 3,000 to 3,000 rpm to prepare the first aqueous phase, more specifically, by dispersing the aqueous phase thickener in purified water and mixing a moisturizing agent and a preservative at 60 to 90° C., preferably may be a step of preparing the first water phase by uniformly mixing and stirring at 70 to 80° C. at a speed of 1,000 to 3,000 rpm, preferably 1,500 to 2,000 rpm for 3 to 15 minutes, preferably 5 to 10 minutes.
- a polyurethane-based polymer, an amino acid-based compound, and an oil gelling agent including a wax, inorganic particles, and oil are mixed to prepare an oil phase by heating and mixing at 60 to 150 ° C, preferably 80 to 120 ° C. can be a step.
- step (C) the first water phase prepared in step (A) and the oil phase prepared in step (B) are 1,500 to 3,000 rpm, preferably 2,000 to 2,500 rpm for 3 to 15 minutes, preferably It may be a step of stirring and mixing for 5 to 10 minutes.
- the manufacturing method of the present invention after the steps (A) to (C), further, (D) the step of mixing the second aqueous phase containing the neutralizing agent in the stirred mixture of (C); and (E) adding and mixing the additive part including the fragrance into the mixture prepared in (D) above, followed by cooling.
- step (D) the second aqueous phase containing the neutralizing agent is added to the stirred mixture of (C) at a speed of 1,500 to 3,000 rpm, preferably 2,000 to 2,500 rpm, for 3 to 15 minutes, preferably 5 It may be a step of mixing by stirring for 10 minutes, and cooling to a temperature of 30 to 50 °C, preferably 40 to 45 °C.
- the step (E) may be a step of cooling to a temperature of 20 to 40 °C, preferably 30 to 35 °C after mixing the additive part containing the fragrance into the mixture prepared in (D), , More specifically, in the step (E), the additive part containing the fragrance is added to the mixture prepared in (D) and uniformly mixed, and then added to the vacuum emulsifying tank, paddle mixer 20 to 40 rpm, preferably 25 to 30 rpm After stirring at a speed of 3 to 15 minutes, preferably 5 to 10 minutes, it may be a step of cooling to 30 to 35 °C.
- Oil, polyurethane-based polymer, amino acid-based compound, wax, oil gelling agent, inorganic particles, aqueous phase thickener, neutralizing agent, fragrance, and the like are all as described in the oil-in-water cosmetic composition of the present invention.
- oil-in-water cosmetic composition of the present invention may be in the form of basic cosmetics such as skin, lotion, essence, cream, sun lotion, sun cream, and the like, and makeup cosmetics such as lipstick, lip gloss, lip tint, primer, foundation, and base.
- the aqueous phase parts (A) and (C), the oil phase part (B) and the additive part (D) were mixed, and the preparation method is as follows.
- the water phase part (A) was put into a vacuum emulsifying tank capable of temperature control and stirring, and stirred at a speed of 1,500 to 2,000 rpm with a homomixer for 5 to 10 minutes while maintaining the temperature at 70 to 80° C. .
- aqueous phase part (C) was put into the vacuum emulsifying tank, and the mixture was stirred by a homo mixer at a speed of 2,000 to 2,500 rpm for 5 to 10 minutes, and then cooled to 40 to 45°C.
- Example 1 Example 2
- Example 3 Award Division (A) Purified water 75.32 65.69 54.31 Butylene Glycol 3.00 3.00 3.00 preservative 0.50 0.50 0.50 xanthan gum 0.05 0.10 0.15 Acrylate/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer 0.10 0.20 0.30 Breast part (B) Hydrogenated polyisobutene 5.00 7.00 9.00 Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides 5.00 7.00 9.00 Cetylethylhexanoate 5.00 7.00 9.00 HDI/trimethylolhexyllactone crosspolymer 0.05 0.15 0.30 dibutyllauroylglutamide 0.10 0.50 1.00 Dibutylethylhexanoylglutamide 0.10 0.50 1.00 microcrystalline wax 0.50 1.00 2.00 silica 3.00 5.00 8.00 Award Division (C) Purified water 2.00 2.00 2.00 tromethamine 0.08 0.16 0.24 Additive part (D) Spices 0.20 0.
- Example 1 The cosmetic composition of the present invention prepared in Example 1 and the cosmetic composition of Comparative Example 1 were compared and evaluated for particle shape and size using an optical microscope (BX53F2, Olympus, Japan). The results are shown in FIG. 1 and Table 3 below.
- Comparative Example 1 containing the surfactant had small and dense particles, but in Example 1 without the surfactant, the particles were relatively large and dense. It can also be confirmed that the lower form compared to Comparative Example 1.
- the result of Example 1 can be analyzed as a phenomenon caused by the absence of surfactant, and when the cosmetic is applied to the skin, the particles are large and stable, so the effect of visually transparent application and immediate moisture supply to the skin and a fresh and moist feeling are realized. do.
- Example 1 which is the cosmetic of the present invention
- the skin conductivity increase rate was very excellent compared to Comparative Example 1. That is, it was found that the cosmetic of the present invention has excellent skin moisturizing effect.
- the cosmetic compositions of Examples 1 to 3 of the present invention have superior effects in improving itching, redness, skin tightness, and dryness compared to the cosmetic compositions of Comparative Examples 1 and 2 could see that
- Example 2 showed the best results in improvement of redness, skin tightening, and dryness, so that Example 2 had the visually transparent effect and moist feeling of use. was the best.
- Comparative Examples 1 and 2 both had good emulsifying power, but the feeling of use was stiff and dry, and there was no phenomenon of visually transparent application.
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Abstract
The present invention provides an oil-in-water type cosmetic composition and a preparation method therefor, the composition comprising: oil; an oil-gelling agent comprising a polyurethane-based polymer, an amino acid-based compound, and wax; and inorganic particles, wherein the oil gelled by the oil-gelling agent is absorbed into the inorganic particles, and the gelled oil absorbed in the inorganic particles is dispersed in the water phase. According to the composition of the present invention, a cosmetic composition that ameliorates skin itching or redness due to surfactants by dispersing oil-phase components finely and stably in the water phase without a surfactant and that has excellent skin affinity, skin absorption rate, applicability, skin moisturizing power, or the like while having an oil-in-water-type feeling when used, may be provided.
Description
본 발명은 오일, 오일 겔화제 및 무기 입자를 포함하는 수중유형 화장료 조성물에 관한 것으로, 보다 구체적으로는, 오일; 폴리우레탄계 폴리머, 아미노산계 화합물, 및 왁스를 포함하는 오일 겔화제; 및 무기 입자를 포함하고, 상기 오일 겔화제에 의해 겔화된 오일은 무기 입자에 흡유되며, 무기 입자에 흡유된 겔화된 오일이 수상에 분산되는 수중유형 화장료 조성물 및 이의 제조방법에 관한 것이다.The present invention relates to an oil-in-water cosmetic composition comprising an oil, an oil gelling agent, and inorganic particles, and more particularly, to an oil; an oil gelling agent including a polyurethane-based polymer, an amino acid-based compound, and a wax; And it relates to an oil-in-water cosmetic composition comprising inorganic particles, wherein the oil gelled by the oil gelling agent is absorbed by the inorganic particles, and the gelled oil absorbed by the inorganic particles is dispersed in an aqueous phase, and a method for preparing the same.
화장품은 원래 외부 환경의 영향, 예를 들어 먼지, 화학물질, 미생물 등과 내부 물질, 예를 들어 물, 지방, 전해질 등에 대한 본래의 방어기능을 강화시키거나 회복시키는 수단으로서 이용된다. 화장품, 특히 기초 화장품의 또 다른 목적은 매일매일 세안함으로써 유발되는 피부의 수분, 지방의 손실을 보충해주는 것이기도 하다. 특히 피부의 자가회복능력이 부족할 때 매우 중요한 역할을 할 수 있다.Cosmetics are originally used as a means to strengthen or restore the original defense function against the influence of the external environment, for example, dust, chemicals, microorganisms, and the like, internal substances, for example, water, fat, electrolyte, and the like. Another purpose of cosmetics, especially basic cosmetics, is to supplement the loss of moisture and fat in the skin caused by daily washing. In particular, it can play a very important role when the skin's ability to self-heal is insufficient.
유화는 단순히 유화제로 둘러싸인 미세한 상을 포함하는 하나의 상을 말한다. 예를 들어, 미세한 상이 물입자라면 유중수형 유화, 오일입자라면 수중유형 유화이다. 대체로 유화는 하나의 액체에 다른 액체를 반영구적으로 분산시켜야하기 때문에 계면활성제(유화제)를 필요로 한다. 계면활성제는 양친매성 구조를 갖는 분자이며 친수부분과 친유부분을 갖는다. 유화에서 하나의 상안에 미세하게 분산된 입자들은 유화제막으로 싸여 있다. 계면활성제는 두 액체사이의 계면에 위치하여 계면장력을 낮추어 주는 역할을 하며 상의 경계에서 오일/물의 계면막을 형성하여 입자들이 서로 합일되는 것을 막아준다. Emulsification simply refers to a phase comprising a fine phase surrounded by an emulsifier. For example, if the fine phase is water particles, it is a water-in-oil emulsion, and if it is an oil particle, it is an oil-in-water emulsion. Generally, emulsification requires a surfactant (emulsifier) because one liquid must be semi-permanently dispersed in another. Surfactants are molecules having an amphiphilic structure and have a hydrophilic moiety and a lipophilic moiety. In emulsification, finely dispersed particles in a single phase are covered with an emulsifying film. The surfactant is located at the interface between the two liquids and serves to lower the interfacial tension, and forms an oil/water interface film at the phase boundary to prevent the particles from coalescing with each other.
상용화된 다양한 계면활성제들이 안전성 허가를 받고 사용되지만 그럼에도 불구하고 화학적 계면활성제는 자극을 유발하거나 알러지를 일으킬 수 있다. 또한 계면활성제는 피부에 유해한 작용을 하게 된다. 구체적으로, 대부분의 계면활성제는 세정제처럼 피부의 지질을 가용화시켜 마이셀을 형성하려는 경향이 있고, 계속된 계면활성제의 사용으로 지질이 손실되면 방어막은 약화되며 피부 투과성이 높아진다. 투과성이 높아진 방어막은 쉽게 수분을 잃게 되고 무디고 건조한 피부를 만들게 된다. 또한, 이물질의 침투가 용이해져 민감한 피부 반응을 일으키게 된다. 이러한 일반 계면활성제의 성질 때문에 자연으로부터 얻을 수 있는 천연 계면활성제를 찾게 되었고, 그 중에서도 레시친을 많이 이용하게 되었다. 하지만 순수 레시친은 변취, 변색의 문제가 있어 화장품에 널리 사용되지 못하고 있으며 널리 사용되는 하이드로제네이티드 레시친은 그 화학적 구조상 팩킹파라미터가 1/3보다 크고 1보다 작기 때문에 에멀젼 보다는 리포좀과 같은 이중막을 형성하려는 성질이 더 강하여 적절한 계면활성제의 역할을 하지 못하였다. Although various commercially available surfactants are used with safety approvals, chemical surfactants may nevertheless cause irritation or allergies. In addition, surfactants have a detrimental effect on the skin. Specifically, most surfactants tend to form micelles by solubilizing skin lipids like detergents, and when lipids are lost due to continued use of surfactants, the barrier layer is weakened and skin permeability is increased. The barrier layer with increased permeability loses moisture easily, resulting in dull and dry skin. In addition, penetration of foreign substances is facilitated, thereby causing a sensitive skin reaction. Because of the properties of these general surfactants, natural surfactants that can be obtained from nature were searched for, and among them, lecithin was used a lot. However, pure lecithin has problems of discoloration and discoloration, so it is not widely used in cosmetics. Hydrogenated lecithin, which is widely used, has a packing parameter greater than 1/3 and less than 1 due to its chemical structure. It had stronger properties and did not act as an appropriate surfactant.
계면활성제를 함유하지 않는 유화의 예로서 유사 계면활성제를 사용하거나 양친매성 성질을 갖는 폴리머를 이용한 유화 방법이 있다. 전자의 것은 유사 계면활성제를 사용하여 일시적인 유화형태를 이룬 후 고압의 에너지를 부가해 안정한 유화를 만드는 방법(예를 들어, 미국특허 US 6,777,450)이고 후자는 고분자내의 친수부와 친유부를 이용해 유화시키는 방법이다. 다만 이러한 유화방법들을 가지고서는 유중수형 형태의 유화가 어렵다는 단점이 있다. 또 다른 방법으로서 계면활성제 대신 유기 혹은 무기 입자를 이용하는 피커링(pickering) 유화가 있다. 이 유화방법에서 계면활성제 대신 사용되는 입자는 분산매에는 습윤이 잘 되지만 분산상에 대해서는 습윤이 잘 되지 않는 성질을 갖는다. 입자의 습윤능력은 물-오일의 계면에서 입자의 접촉각과 직접적인 관련이 있어 입자가 계면활성제와 마찬가지로 계면에 배열하도록 하는데 매우 중요한 성질이다. 실리카 같이 물에 습윤이 잘 되는 입자일 경우 수중유형 유화를 안정화시킬 것이며, 카본 블랙과 같은 오일에 습윤이 잘 되는 입자의 경우에는 유중수형 유화를 안정화시킨다. 다만 입자가 너무 친수성이 강하거나 너무 친유성이 강하다면 입자는 계면에 존재 하지 않고 각각 물, 오일에 분산된다. 예를 들어 대한민국 특허 출원 제2003-0069400호는 내상에 친수성 실리카와 친유성 이산화티탄을 함유시켜 수중유형 유화를 만들었으며(특허문헌 1), 대한민국 특허출원 제2002-0054603호는 폴리메틸실세스퀴옥산이라는 양친매성 입자를 이용하여 유중수형 유화를 만들었다(특허문헌 2). 그 외에 미국특허 US 6,803,049 및 US 5,833,951도 무기 입자를 이용한 피커링 유화에 관하여 보고하였다. 그러나 이러한 피커링 유화는 기존 계면활성제를 이용한 에멀젼의 피부 안전성과 사용감을 개선시키는 장점은 가지고 있으나 내수성이 떨어지는 단점을 갖는다. As an example of emulsification containing no surfactant, there is an emulsification method using a similar surfactant or using a polymer having amphiphilic properties. The former is a method of making a stable emulsion by adding high-pressure energy after forming a temporary emulsification form using a similar surfactant (for example, US Patent US 6,777,450), and the latter is a method of emulsifying using a hydrophilic and lipophilic part in the polymer. way. However, these emulsification methods have the disadvantage that it is difficult to emulsify the water-in-oil type. Another method is pickering emulsification using organic or inorganic particles instead of surfactants. In this emulsification method, the particles used in place of the surfactant are well wetted by the dispersion medium but not well wetted by the dispersed phase. The wetting ability of the particles is directly related to the contact angle of the particles at the water-oil interface, so it is a very important property for the particles to align at the interface like the surfactant. Particles that wet well with water, such as silica, will stabilize oil-in-water emulsification, while particles that wet well with oil, such as carbon black, will stabilize water-in-oil emulsification. However, if the particles are too hydrophilic or too lipophilic, the particles do not exist at the interface and are dispersed in water and oil, respectively. For example, Korean Patent Application No. 2003-0069400 contains hydrophilic silica and lipophilic titanium dioxide in the inner layer to make oil-in-water emulsion (Patent Document 1), and Korean Patent Application No. 2002-0054603 discloses polymethylsilsesqui A water-in-oil type emulsion was made using an amphiphilic particle called oxane (patent document 2). In addition, US Patents US 6,803,049 and US 5,833,951 have also reported on Pickering emulsification using inorganic particles. However, this Pickering emulsification has the advantage of improving the skin safety and feeling of use of the emulsion using the existing surfactant, but has the disadvantage of poor water resistance.
이에 본 발명자들은 계면활성제를 사용하지 않음으로써 계면활성제에 의한 피부 가려움증이나 붉어짐 등을 개선하고 수중유형과 같은 사용감을 가지면서 화장료로서 우수한 효과를 나타내는 화장료를 개발하기 위해 계속 연구를 진행하던 중 본 발명을 완성하였다.Accordingly, the present inventors have been conducting research to develop a cosmetic that exhibits excellent effects as a cosmetic while improving skin itching or redness caused by a surfactant by not using a surfactant, and having the same feeling of use as an oil-in-water, the present invention was completed.
본 발명은, 유상 성분들이 계면활성제 없이 수상에 안정하게 분산된 화장료 조성물을 제공하는 것을 그 목적으로 한다. 또한, 수중유형과 같은 사용감을 지니며 피부 친화력이 뛰어나고 피부 보습력이 향상된 안정한 계면활성제 무첨가 화장료 조성물을 제공하는 것을 그 목적으로 한다.An object of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic composition in which oily components are stably dispersed in an aqueous phase without a surfactant. Another object of the present invention is to provide a stable surfactant-free cosmetic composition having the same feeling of use as oil-in-water, excellent skin affinity, and improved skin moisturizing power.
또한, 본 발명은 상기 계면활성제 무첨가 화장료 조성물의 제조방법을 제공하는 것을 그 목적으로 한다.In addition, an object of the present invention is to provide a method for preparing the surfactant-free cosmetic composition.
본 발명은, 오일; 폴리우레탄계 폴리머, 아미노산계 화합물, 및 왁스를 포함하는 오일 겔화제; 및 무기 입자를 포함하고, 상기 오일 겔화제에 의해 겔화된 오일은 무기 입자에 흡유되는 수중유형 화장료 조성물을 제공한다.The present invention, oil; an oil gelling agent including a polyurethane-based polymer, an amino acid-based compound, and a wax; and inorganic particles, wherein the oil gelled by the oil gelling agent provides an oil-in-water cosmetic composition that is absorbed by the inorganic particles.
본 발명에 따른 무기 입자에 흡유된 겔화된 오일이 수상에 분산되어 계면활성제 없이 수중유형 화장료 조성물을 형성할 수 있다.The gelled oil absorbed by the inorganic particles according to the present invention can be dispersed in an aqueous phase to form an oil-in-water cosmetic composition without a surfactant.
본 발명에 따른 수중유형 화장료 조성물은 유상 성분들이 계면활성제 없이 수상에 미세하고 안정하게 분산될 수 있다. 이에, 계면활성제에 의한 피부 가려움증이나 붉어짐 등과 같은 피부 자극을 줄일 수 있다. 또한, 수중유형의 사용감을 가지면서 피부 친화력이 뛰어나고 피부 흡수율이 높고 발림성이 좋으며 피부 보습력이 향상된 화장료를 얻을 수 있다. 뿐만 아니라, 시각적으로 투명하게 발리는 듯한 효과를 얻을 수 있으며, 보습력이 좋고 계면활성제 없이 피부를 유연하게 유지시킬 수 있어 피부를 보다 촉촉하게 가꾸어 주는 화장 제품을 개발할 수 있다.The oil-in-water cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be finely and stably dispersed in an aqueous phase without a surfactant. Accordingly, skin irritation such as skin itching or redness caused by the surfactant can be reduced. In addition, it is possible to obtain a cosmetic with excellent skin affinity, high skin absorption, good spreadability, and improved skin moisture while having an oil-in-water feeling. In addition, it is possible to develop a cosmetic product that makes the skin more moist because it can obtain a visually transparent effect, and it has good moisturizing power and can keep the skin flexible without surfactant.
도 1은 시험예 1에 따라 실시예 1과 비교예 1의 화장료 조성물의 입자 비교 테스트를 위한 사진이다.1 is a photograph for a particle comparison test of the cosmetic composition of Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 according to Test Example 1.
본 발명은 다양한 변경을 가할 수 있고 여러 가지 실시예를 가질 수 있는 바, 특정 실시예들을 도면에 예시하고 상세한 설명에 구체적으로 설명하고자 한다.Since the present invention can have various changes and can have various embodiments, specific embodiments are illustrated in the drawings and will be described in detail in the detailed description.
그러나, 이는 본 발명을 특정한 실시 형태에 대해 한정하려는 것이 아니며, 본 발명의 사상 및 기술 범위에 포함되는 모든 변경, 균등물 내지 대체물을 포함하는 것으로 이해되어야 한다.However, this is not intended to limit the present invention to specific embodiments, and it should be understood to include all modifications, equivalents and substitutes included in the spirit and scope of the present invention.
본 발명은, 오일; 폴리우레탄계 폴리머, 아미노산계 화합물, 및 왁스를 포함하는 오일 겔화제; 및 무기 입자를 포함하는 수중유형 화장료 조성물을 제공한다. 여기서 오일 겔화제에 의해 오일은 겔화되고, 상기 오일 겔화제에 의해 겔화된 오일은 무기 입자에 흡유되며, 상기 무기 입자에 흡유된 겔화된 오일이 수상에 분산되는 것을 특징으로 한다.The present invention, oil; an oil gelling agent including a polyurethane-based polymer, an amino acid-based compound, and a wax; And it provides an oil-in-water cosmetic composition comprising inorganic particles. Here, the oil is gelled by the oil gelling agent, the oil gelled by the oil gelling agent is absorbed by the inorganic particles, and the gelled oil absorbed by the inorganic particles is dispersed in the aqueous phase.
무기 입자에 흡유된 겔화된 오일은 계면활성제 없이 수상에 분산될 수 있다. 즉, 겔화된 오일은 무기 입자에 흡유됨으로써 오일끼리 서로 합일되는 현상이 발생하지 않아 제형 안정성이 높아지며, 겔화된 오일이 흡유되어 있는 무기 입자들간에 정전기적 반발력이 발생하여 겔화된 오일이 흡유된 무기 입자들간의 균일한 간격 유지가 가능함에 따라 수상에 미세하게 분산될 수 있다. 이러한 화장료 조성물은 피부에 투명하게 발릴 수 있고, 피부 표면에서 물방울이 터지는 듯한 사용감을 지니고 있으며 자극없이 피부에 깊은 보습감을 줄 수 있는 제형을 형성할 수 있다.The gelled oil absorbed by the inorganic particles can be dispersed in the aqueous phase without a surfactant. That is, the gelled oil is absorbed by the inorganic particles, so that the oil does not coalesce with each other, thereby increasing formulation stability, and generating an electrostatic repulsive force between the inorganic particles in which the gelled oil is absorbed. As it is possible to maintain a uniform spacing between particles, it can be finely dispersed in the aqueous phase. Such a cosmetic composition can be applied to the skin transparently, has a feeling of use like water droplets bursting from the skin surface, and can form a formulation that can give a deep moisturizing feeling to the skin without irritation.
상기 오일 겔화제는 화장료 조성물 총 중량 대비 0.1 내지 15중량%, 0.1 내지 12중량%, 0.1 내지 10중량% 또는 0.5 내지 5중량%일 수 있으며, 가장 바람직하게는 0.75 내지 4.3중량%일 수 있다. 상기 오일 겔화제를 0.1중량% 미만으로 포함하는 경우, 오일의 겔화를 기대할 수 없고, 15중량% 초과로 포함하는 경우, 경도가 너무 높아져 오일이 미세하게 분산되지 못하는 단점이 있다. The oil gelling agent may be 0.1 to 15% by weight, 0.1 to 12% by weight, 0.1 to 10% by weight, or 0.5 to 5% by weight, and most preferably 0.75 to 4.3% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. When the oil gelling agent is included in an amount of less than 0.1% by weight, gelation of the oil cannot be expected, and when it contains more than 15% by weight, the hardness is too high and the oil cannot be finely dispersed.
상기 폴리우레탄계 폴리머는 에이치디아이/트라이메틸올헥실락톤크로스폴리머; 및 에이치디아이/피피지/폴리카프로락톤크로스폴리머로 이루어진 군에서 선택되는 하나 이상일 수 있고, 바람직하게는 에이치디아이/트라이메틸올헥실락톤크로스폴리머일 수 있다.The polyurethane-based polymer is HDI/trimethylolhexyllactone crosspolymer; And it may be at least one selected from the group consisting of HDI/PPG/polycaprolactone crosspolymer, preferably HDI/trimethylolhexyllactone crosspolymer.
상기 아미노산계 화합물은 글루타미드계 화합물일 수 있다.The amino acid-based compound may be a glutamide-based compound.
상기 아미노산계 화합물은 다이부틸라우로일글루타마이드, 다이부틸에틸헥사노일글루타마이드, 또는 이들의 조합일 수 있고, 바람직하게는 다이부틸라우로일글루타마이드 및 다이부틸에틸헥사노일글루타마이드의 조합일 수 있다.The amino acid-based compound may be dibutyllauroylglutamide, dibutylethylhexanoylglutamide, or a combination thereof, preferably dibutyllauroylglutamide and dibutylethylhexanoylglutamide. It can be a combination.
상기 왁스는 탄화수소계 왁스일 수 있다.The wax may be a hydrocarbon-based wax.
상기 왁스는 세레신 왁스, 폴리에틸렌 왁스, 마이크로크리스탈린 왁스, 파라핀 왁스, 오조케라이트를 포함하는 광물성 왁스 또는 카나우바 왁스, 칸데릴라 왁스를 포함하는 식물성 왁스로 이루어지는 군으로부터 선택되는 하나 이상일 수 있으며, 바람직하게는 마이크로크리스탈린 왁스일 수 있다.The wax may be one or more selected from the group consisting of ceresin wax, polyethylene wax, microcrystalline wax, paraffin wax, mineral wax including ozokerite, carnauba wax, and vegetable wax including candelilla wax, preferably Preferably, it may be microcrystalline wax.
상기 폴리우레탄계 폴리머, 아미노산계 화합물 및 왁스의 조합으로 오일을 겔화시킬 수 있다. 상기와 같은 조합의 오일 겔화제를 사용하는 경우, 각 원료들의 녹는점들이 상이하여 제형 안정성을 폭넓게 가질 수 있다.The combination of the polyurethane-based polymer, the amino acid-based compound, and the wax may gel the oil. In the case of using the oil gelling agent of the above combination, the melting points of each raw material are different, so that formulation stability can be wide.
상기 무기 입자는 다공성 무기 입자일 수 있다.The inorganic particles may be porous inorganic particles.
상기 무기 입자는 실리카, 마이카, 세리사이트, 이산화티탄, 산화철, 징크옥사이드, 합성마이카, 알루미나, 질화붕소, 폴리메틸메타크릴레이트, 폴리메틸실세스퀴옥세인 및 폴리프로필실세스퀴옥세인으로 이루어진 군으로부터 선택되는 하나 이상일 수 있으며, 바람직하게는 무기 입자는 실리카일 수 있다. 실리카는 수상 성분에 습윤이 잘 되어 수중유형 유화를 용이하게 안정시킬 수 있다.The inorganic particles are from the group consisting of silica, mica, sericite, titanium dioxide, iron oxide, zinc oxide, synthetic mica, alumina, boron nitride, polymethyl methacrylate, polymethylsilsesquioxane and polypropylsilsesquioxane It may be one or more selected, and preferably, the inorganic particles may be silica. Silica can easily stabilize oil-in-water emulsification because it wets well with aqueous phase components.
상기 무기 입자는 화장료 조성물 총 중량 대비 1 내지 10중량%일 수 있으며, 바람직하게는 3 내지 8중량%일 수 있다. The inorganic particles may be 1 to 10% by weight, preferably 3 to 8% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
상기 무기 입자를 1중량% 미만으로 포함하는 경우, 오일이 고르게 흡유될 수 없고, 10중량% 초과로 포함하는 경우, 제조된 내용물의 보습감 및 유연감이 현저히 낮아지는 단점이 있다.When the inorganic particles are included in an amount of less than 1% by weight, the oil cannot be absorbed evenly, and when it is included in an amount of more than 10% by weight, there is a disadvantage in that the moisture and softness of the prepared contents are significantly lowered.
상기 폴리우레탄계 폴리머는 화장료 조성물 총 중량 대비 0.01 내지 1중량%, 0.01 내지 0.8중량%, 0.03 내지 0.8중량%, 0.03내지 0.6중량%, 또는 0.03 내지 0.4중량%일 수 있으며, 가장 바람직하게는 0.05 내지 0.3중량%일 수 있다.The polyurethane-based polymer may be 0.01 to 1% by weight, 0.01 to 0.8% by weight, 0.03 to 0.8% by weight, 0.03 to 0.6% by weight, or 0.03 to 0.4% by weight, most preferably from 0.05 to 0.4% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition It may be 0.3% by weight.
상기 아미노산계 화합물은 화장료 조성물 총 중량 대비 0.05 내지 5중량%, 0.1 내지 4.5중량%, 0.1 내지 4중량%, 또는 0.1 내지 3.5중량%일 수 있으며, 가장 바람직하게는 0.2 내지 2중량%일 수 있다. 상기 아미노산계 화합물이 다이부틸라우로일글루타마이드, 다이부틸에틸헥사노일글루타마이드, 또는 이들의 조합일 경우, 상기 다이부틸라우로일글루타마이드는 화장료 조성물 총 중량 대비 0.05 내지 3중량%, 0.05 내지 2중량%, 또는 0.1 내지 1중량%일 수 있고, 상기 다이부틸에틸헥사노일글루타마이드는 0.05 내지 3중량%, 0.05 내지 2중량%, 또는 0.1 내지 1중량%일 수 있다.The amino acid-based compound may be 0.05 to 5% by weight, 0.1 to 4.5% by weight, 0.1 to 4% by weight, or 0.1 to 3.5% by weight, most preferably 0.2 to 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition . When the amino acid-based compound is dibutyl lauroyl glutamide, dibutyl ethyl hexanoyl glutamide, or a combination thereof, the dibutyl lauroyl glutamide is 0.05 to 3 wt %, 0.05 based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition to 2 wt%, or 0.1 to 1 wt%, and the dibutylethylhexanoylglutamide may be 0.05 to 3 wt%, 0.05 to 2 wt%, or 0.1 to 1 wt%.
상기 왁스는 화장료 조성물 총 중량 대비 0.1 내지 5중량%, 0.3 내지 4.5중량%, 0.3 내지 4중량%, 또는 0.3 내지 3중량%이고, 가장 바람직하게는 0.5 내지 2중량%일 수 있다.The wax may be 0.1 to 5% by weight, 0.3 to 4.5% by weight, 0.3 to 4% by weight, or 0.3 to 3% by weight, most preferably 0.5 to 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
폴리우레탄계 폴리머, 아미노산계 화합물 및 왁스가 상기 중량 범위인 경우, 유상 성분을 용이하게 겔화시킬 수 있으며, 유상 성분을 계면활성제 없이 수상에 안정하게 분산시킬 수 있다.When the polyurethane-based polymer, the amino acid-based compound, and the wax are in the above weight range, the oil phase component can be easily gelled, and the oil phase component can be stably dispersed in the aqueous phase without a surfactant.
본 발명의 수중유형 화장료 조성물에 있어서, 상기 수상은 수상 증점제를 추가로 포함할 수 있다.In the oil-in-water cosmetic composition of the present invention, the aqueous phase may further include an aqueous phase thickener.
상기 수상 증점제는 셀룰로오스검, 하이드록시에칠셀룰로오스, 겔란검, 하이드록시프로필스타치포스페이트, 소듐폴리아크릴레이트스타치, 잔탄검, 하이드록시에칠아크릴레이트/소듐아크릴로일디메칠타우레이트코폴리머, 폴리아크릴레이트-13, 아크릴레이트/C10-30알킬아크릴레이트크로스폴리머, 카보머, 소듐폴리아크릴레이트 및 소듐아크릴레이트코폴리머로 이루어진 군으로부터 선택된 하나 이상을 포함할 수 있으며, 바람직하게는 잔탄검 또는 아크릴레이트/C10-30알킬아크릴레이트크로스폴리머일 수 있고, 보다 바람직하게는 잔탄검 및 아크릴레이트/C10-30알킬아크릴레이트크로스폴리머의 조합일 수 있다.The aqueous thickener is cellulose gum, hydroxyethyl cellulose, gellan gum, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, sodium polyacrylate starch, xanthan gum, hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, It may include at least one selected from the group consisting of polyacrylate-13, acrylate/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, carbomer, sodium polyacrylate and sodium acrylate copolymer, preferably xanthan gum or It may be an acrylate/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, and more preferably a combination of xanthan gum and an acrylate/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer.
상기 수상 증점제는 화장료 조성물 총 중량 대비 0.01 내지 2중량%, 0.03 내 1.5중량%, 또는 0.05 내지 0.5중량%일 수 있다. 바람직하게는, 수상 증점제가 잔탄검, 아크릴레이트/C10-30알킬아크릴레이트크로스폴리머, 또는 이들의 조합을 포함하는 경우, 잔탄검은 0.01 내지 1중량%, 또는 0.01 내지 0.5중량%일 수 있고, 아크릴레이트/C10-30알킬아크릴레이트크로스폴리머는 0.01 내지 1중량%, 또는 0.05 내지 0.5중량%일 수 있다.The aqueous thickener may be 0.01 to 2% by weight, 0.03 to 1.5% by weight, or 0.05 to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. Preferably, when the water phase thickener comprises xanthan gum, an acrylate/C10-30 alkylacrylate crosspolymer, or a combination thereof, the xanthan gum may be 0.01 to 1% by weight, or 0.01 to 0.5% by weight, and acrylic The rate/C10-30 alkylacrylate crosspolymer may be 0.01 to 1% by weight, or 0.05 to 0.5% by weight.
여기서, 상기 잔탄검 또는 아크릴레이트/C10-30알킬아크릴레이트크로스폴리머를 0.01중량% 미만으로 포함하는 경우 적정한 증점 효과를 기대할 수 없고, 1중량% 초과로 포함하는 경우 수상의 점도가 너무 높아져 제조된 내용물의 사용감이 뻑뻑해지는 단점이 있다. Here, when the xanthan gum or acrylate/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer is included in an amount of less than 0.01% by weight, an appropriate thickening effect cannot be expected, and when it contains more than 1% by weight, the viscosity of the aqueous phase becomes too high. There is a disadvantage that the feeling of use of the contents becomes stiff.
본 발명의 수중유형 화장료 조성물은, 폴리우레탄계 폴리머, 아미노산계 화합물 및 왁스를 포함하는 오일 겔화제에 의해 겔화된 오일이 무기 입자에 흡유되고, 이러한 무기 입자에 흡유된 겔화된 오일이 수상 증점제에 의해 네트워크가 형성된 수상에 분산될 수 있다. In the oil-in-water cosmetic composition of the present invention, the oil gelled by the oil gelling agent including the polyurethane-based polymer, the amino acid-based compound and the wax is absorbed by the inorganic particles, and the gelled oil absorbed by the inorganic particles is absorbed by the aqueous thickener The network can be distributed over the formed water phase.
상기 네트워크는 3차원 망상의 사슬 구조를 포함할 수 있다. 상기 수상 증점제는 고분자 성분이기 때문에, 이러한 고분자들이 분자량이 높아 사슬과 사슬이 그물처럼 엉킨 3차원 망상의 긴 사슬구조를 이룰 수 있다.The network may include a chain structure of a three-dimensional network. Since the aqueous thickener is a polymer component, these polymers have a high molecular weight and thus can form a three-dimensional network long chain structure in which chains and chains are entangled like a net.
본 발명의 수중유형 화장료 조성물은 오일 겔화제, 오일 및 무기 입자를 포함하는 유상부;와 수상 증점제, 보습제, 보존제 및 중화제를 포함하는 수상부;를 포함할 수 있다.The oil-in-water cosmetic composition of the present invention may include an oil phase comprising an oil gelling agent, oil, and inorganic particles; and an aqueous phase comprising an aqueous thickener, a moisturizing agent, a preservative and a neutralizing agent.
상기 보습제, 보존제, 중화제 및 향료는 화장료 조성물에 통상적으로 사용되는 것이라면 제한없이 사용될 수 있다.The moisturizing agent, preservative, neutralizing agent and flavoring agent may be used without limitation as long as they are commonly used in cosmetic compositions.
상기 보습제는 글리세린, 부틸렌글리콜 및 글리세레스-26 중 하나 이상을 포함할 수 있으며, 당업계에서 알려진 보습제는 제한없이 사용될 수 있다. 상기 보습제는 화장료 조성물 총 중량 대비 0.1 내지 10중량%, 1 내지 8중량%, 1 내지 5중량%일 수 있다.The humectant may include one or more of glycerin, butylene glycol and glycereth-26, and humectants known in the art may be used without limitation. The moisturizing agent may be 0.1 to 10% by weight, 1 to 8% by weight, or 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
상기 보존제는 하이드록시아세토페논일 수 있으나, 당업계에서 알려진 보존제라면 제한없이 사용될 수 있다. The preservative may be hydroxyacetophenone, but any preservative known in the art may be used without limitation.
상기 중화제는 포타슘하이드록사이드, 소듐하이드록사이드, 마그네슘하이드록사이드, 트리에탄올아민, 트로메타민, 알지닌, 및 아미노메칠프로판올로 이루어지는 군으로부터 선택되는 1종 이상의 중화제일 수 있으나, 당업계에서 알려진 중화제라면 제한없이 사용될 수 있다. 상기 중화제는 화장료 조성물 총 중량 대비 0.01 내지 0.5중량%, 0.01 내지 0.4중량%, 또는 0.05 내지 0.3중량%일 수 있다.The neutralizing agent may be one or more neutralizing agents selected from the group consisting of potassium hydroxide, sodium hydroxide, magnesium hydroxide, triethanolamine, tromethamine, arginine, and aminomethylpropanol, but known in the art Any neutralizing agent may be used without limitation. The neutralizing agent may be 0.01 to 0.5% by weight, 0.01 to 0.4% by weight, or 0.05 to 0.3% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
상기 수중유형 화장료 조성물에는 향료를 포함하는 첨가제를 추가로 포함할 수 있다. The oil-in-water cosmetic composition may further include an additive including a fragrance.
본 발명의 일 양태에서, 유상부는 화장료 조성물의 총 중량 대비 15 내지 50 중량%로 포함될 수 있고, 수상부는 화장료 조성물의 총 중량 대비 50 내지 85 중량%로 포함될 수 있다.In one aspect of the present invention, the oil phase may be included in an amount of 15 to 50% by weight based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, and the aqueous phase may be included in an amount of 50 to 85% by weight based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
본 발명의 수중유형 화장료 조성물은, 계면활성제 없이 오일 겔화제로 겔화된 오일이 수상부에 분산될 수 있으며, 겔화된 오일을 흡유한 무기 입자가 겔화된 오일을 수상부에 안정하고 미세하게 분산시킬 수 있다.In the oil-in-water cosmetic composition of the present invention, the oil gelled with an oil gelling agent without a surfactant can be dispersed in the aqueous phase, and the inorganic particles absorbing the gelled oil can stably and finely disperse the gelled oil in the aqueous phase. have.
본 발명의 일 양태에서, 오일은 화장료 조성물 총 중량 대비 1 내지 50중량%, 5 내지 40중량% 또는 10 내지 30중량%로 포함될 수 있다. 상기 오일을 1중량% 미만으로 포함하는 경우에는 전체적으로 오일의 고른 분포를 기재할 수 없고, 50중량%를 초과하여 포함하는 경우에는 제조된 내용물의 안정도가 불안해지는 단점이 있다.
In one aspect of the present invention, the oil may be included in an amount of 1 to 50% by weight, 5 to 40% by weight, or 10 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. When the oil is included in an amount of less than 1% by weight, an even distribution of the oil cannot be described as a whole, and when it includes more than 50% by weight, there is a disadvantage in that the stability of the prepared contents becomes unstable.
상기 오일은 식물성 오일, 광물성 오일, 탄화수소계 오일, 에스테르계 오일, 실리콘 오일 및 합성 오일로 이루어진 군으로부터 선택된 하나 이상을 포함할 수 있으며, 이의 종류에 한정되지 않고 화장품에 통상적으로 사용되는 오일이라면 제한되지 않는다.The oil may include one or more selected from the group consisting of vegetable oil, mineral oil, hydrocarbon oil, ester oil, silicone oil, and synthetic oil, and is not limited to the type thereof, and is limited as long as it is an oil commonly used in cosmetics doesn't happen
본 발명의 일 구체 양태에서, 상기 오일은 세틸에틸헥사노에이트 또는 2-옥틸도데칸올을 포함하는 탄화수소계 오일; 하이드로제네이티드폴리이소부텐, 카프릴릭/카프릭트라이글리세라이드, C12-15알코올스벤조에이트, 이소프로필팔미테이트, 2-옥틸도데실미리스테이트, 이소프로필미리스테리트 또는 부틸옥틸살리실레이트를 포함하는 에스테르계 오일; 카스터오일, 올리브 오일 또는 호호바 오일을 포함하는 식물성 오일; 호오스팻, 밍크오일, 또는 난황유을 포함하는 동물성 오일; 미네랄오일, 이소도데칸, 폴리부텐 또는 페트롤라툼을 포함하는 광물성 오일; 및 페닐트리메치콘, 사이클로 메치콘 또는 디메치콘을 포함하는 실리콘 오일로 이루어진 군으로부터 선택되는 1종 이상을 사용할 수 있다. In one embodiment of the present invention, the oil is a hydrocarbon-based oil comprising cetylethylhexanoate or 2-octyldodecanol; Hydrogenated polyisobutene, caprylic/capric triglyceride, C12-15 alcohol benzoate, isopropyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, isopropyl myristate or butyloctyl salicylate ester-based oil comprising; vegetable oils including castor oil, olive oil or jojoba oil; animal oils including horse fat, mink oil, or egg yolk oil; mineral oil, including mineral oil, isododecane, polybutene or petrolatum; And at least one selected from the group consisting of silicone oil containing phenyltrimethicone, cyclomethicone, or dimethicone may be used.
합성 오일은 에테르 또는 에스테르계 오일 외에 자외선 차단제를 포함할 수 있다.Synthetic oils may include sunscreens in addition to ether or ester oils.
본 발명의 가장 바람직한 일 양태에서, 본 발명은, 에이치디아이/트라이메틸올헥실락톤크로스폴리머, 다이부틸라우로일글루타마이드, 다이부틸에틸헥사노일글루타마이드 및 마이크로크리스탈린 왁스를 포함하는 오일 겔화제로 겔화된 오일이 실리카에 흡유된 수중유형 화장료 조성물을 제공한다. In one most preferred aspect of the present invention, the present invention provides oil gelation comprising HDI/trimethylolhexyllactone crosspolymer, dibutyllauroylglutamide, dibutylethylhexanoylglutamide and microcrystalline wax Provided is an oil-in-water cosmetic composition in which zero gelled oil is absorbed by silica.
또한, 본 발명은, 수중유형 화장료 조성물의 제조방법을 제공한다.In addition, the present invention provides a method for preparing an oil-in-water cosmetic composition.
구체적으로, 본 발명의 제조방법은, (A) 수상 증점제를 포함하는 제1수상부를 제조하는 단계; (B) 폴리우레탄계 폴리머, 아미노산계 화합물 및 왁스를 포함하는 오일 겔화제; 무기 입자 및 오일을 혼합하여 유상부를 제조하는 단계; 및 (C) 상기 제1수상부와 유상부를 교반 혼합하는 단계를 포함할 수 있다.Specifically, the manufacturing method of the present invention comprises the steps of (A) preparing a first aqueous phase portion comprising an aqueous phase thickener; (B) an oil gelling agent comprising a polyurethane-based polymer, an amino acid-based compound, and a wax; preparing an oil phase by mixing inorganic particles and oil; and (C) stirring and mixing the first aqueous phase part and the oil phase part.
상기 (A) 단계는 수상 증점제와 보습제, 보존제를 혼합하여 제1수상부를 제조하는 단계일 수 있고, 더 구체적으로, (A) 단계는 수상 증점제, 보습제 및 보존제를 혼합하여 60 내지 90℃에서 1,000 내지 3,000rpm의 속도로 3 내지 15분간 혼합 및 교반시켜 제1수상부를 제조하는 단계일 수 있으며, 보다 구체적으로, 수상 증점제를 정제수에 분산한 후 보습제와 보존제를 혼합하여 60 내지 90℃, 바람직하게는 70 내지 80℃에서 1,000 내지 3,000rpm, 바람직하게는 1,500 내지 2,000rpm 의 속도로 3 내지 15분간, 바람직하게는 5 내지 10분간 균일하게 혼합 및 교반시켜 제1수상부를 제조하는 단계일 수 있다. The step (A) may be a step of preparing the first aqueous phase by mixing an aqueous thickener, a moisturizing agent, and a preservative, and more specifically, (A) is a step of mixing an aqueous thickener, a moisturizing agent, and a preservative to 1,000 at 60 to 90°C. It may be a step of preparing the first aqueous phase by mixing and stirring at a speed of 3,000 to 3,000 rpm to prepare the first aqueous phase, more specifically, by dispersing the aqueous phase thickener in purified water and mixing a moisturizing agent and a preservative at 60 to 90° C., preferably may be a step of preparing the first water phase by uniformly mixing and stirring at 70 to 80° C. at a speed of 1,000 to 3,000 rpm, preferably 1,500 to 2,000 rpm for 3 to 15 minutes, preferably 5 to 10 minutes.
상기 (B) 단계는 폴리우레탄계 폴리머, 아미노산계 화합물 및 왁스를 포함하는 오일 겔화제, 무기 입자 및 오일을 혼합하여 60 내지 150℃, 바람직하게는 80 내지 120℃에서 가온 교반 혼합하여 유상부를 제조하는 단계일 수 있다.In the step (B), a polyurethane-based polymer, an amino acid-based compound, and an oil gelling agent including a wax, inorganic particles, and oil are mixed to prepare an oil phase by heating and mixing at 60 to 150 ° C, preferably 80 to 120 ° C. can be a step.
상기 (C) 단계는 상기 (A) 단계에서 제조한 제1수상부와 상기 (B) 단계에서 제조한 유상부를 1,500 내지 3,000rpm, 바람직하게는 2,000 내지 2,500rpm 의 속도로 3 내지 15분간, 바람직하게는 5 내지 10분간 교반 혼합하는 단계일 수 있다.In step (C), the first water phase prepared in step (A) and the oil phase prepared in step (B) are 1,500 to 3,000 rpm, preferably 2,000 to 2,500 rpm for 3 to 15 minutes, preferably It may be a step of stirring and mixing for 5 to 10 minutes.
본 발명의 제조방법은, 상기 (A) 내지 (C) 단계 후 추가로, (D) 중화제를 포함하는 제2수상부를 (C) 의 교반 혼합물에 투입하여 혼합시키는 단계; 및 (E) 향료를 포함하는 첨가제부를 상기 (D) 에서 제조한 혼합물에 투입하여 혼합시킨 후 냉각시키는 단계를 포함할 수 있다.The manufacturing method of the present invention, after the steps (A) to (C), further, (D) the step of mixing the second aqueous phase containing the neutralizing agent in the stirred mixture of (C); and (E) adding and mixing the additive part including the fragrance into the mixture prepared in (D) above, followed by cooling.
구체적으로, 상기 (D) 단계는 중화제를 포함하는 제2수상부를 (C) 의 교반 혼합물에 투입하여 1,500 내지 3,000rpm, 바람직하게는 2,000 내지 2,500rpm 의 속도로 3 내지 15분간, 바람직하게는 5 내지 10분간 교반하여 혼합시키고, 30 내지 50℃, 바람직하게는 40 내지 45℃ 의 온도로 냉각시키는 단계일 수 있다.Specifically, in step (D), the second aqueous phase containing the neutralizing agent is added to the stirred mixture of (C) at a speed of 1,500 to 3,000 rpm, preferably 2,000 to 2,500 rpm, for 3 to 15 minutes, preferably 5 It may be a step of mixing by stirring for 10 minutes, and cooling to a temperature of 30 to 50 °C, preferably 40 to 45 °C.
구체적으로, 상기 (E) 단계는 향료를 포함하는 첨가제부를 상기 (D) 에서 제조한 혼합물에 투입하여 혼합시킨 후 20 내지 40℃, 바람직하게는 30 내지 35℃의 온도까지 냉각시키는 단계일 수 있으며, 보다 구체적으로, 상기 (E) 단계는 향을 포함하는 첨가제부를 상기 (D)에서 제조한 혼합물에 투입하여 균일하게 혼합시킨 후 진공 유화조에 첨가하여 패들 믹서 20 내지 40rpm, 바람직하게는 25 내지 30rpm의 속도로 3 내지 15분간, 바람직하게는 5 내지 10분간 교반한 후, 30 내지 35℃까지 냉각시키는 단계일 수 있다.Specifically, the step (E) may be a step of cooling to a temperature of 20 to 40 ℃, preferably 30 to 35 ℃ after mixing the additive part containing the fragrance into the mixture prepared in (D), , More specifically, in the step (E), the additive part containing the fragrance is added to the mixture prepared in (D) and uniformly mixed, and then added to the vacuum emulsifying tank, paddle mixer 20 to 40 rpm, preferably 25 to 30 rpm After stirring at a speed of 3 to 15 minutes, preferably 5 to 10 minutes, it may be a step of cooling to 30 to 35 ℃.
본 발명의 제조방법에서 사용된 used in the production method of the present invention
오일, 폴리우레탄계 폴리머, 아미노산계 화합물, 왁스, 오일 겔화제, 무기 입자, 수상 증점제, 중화제, 향료 등은 모두 상기 본 발명의 수중유형 화장료 조성물에서 서술한 바와 같다.Oil, polyurethane-based polymer, amino acid-based compound, wax, oil gelling agent, inorganic particles, aqueous phase thickener, neutralizing agent, fragrance, and the like are all as described in the oil-in-water cosmetic composition of the present invention.
또한, 본 발명의 수중유형 화장료 조성물은 스킨, 로션, 에센스, 크림, 선로션, 선크림 등과 같은 기초 화장품, 및 립스틱, 립글로스, 립틴트, 프라이머, 파운데이션, 베이스 등과 같은 메이크업 화장품의 형태일 수 있다.In addition, the oil-in-water cosmetic composition of the present invention may be in the form of basic cosmetics such as skin, lotion, essence, cream, sun lotion, sun cream, and the like, and makeup cosmetics such as lipstick, lip gloss, lip tint, primer, foundation, and base.
이하 본 발명에 따르는 실시예 등을 통해 본 발명을 보다 상세히 설명하나, 본 발명의 범위가 하기 제시된 실시예에 의해 제한되는 것은 아니다.Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail by way of Examples and the like according to the present invention, but the scope of the present invention is not limited by the Examples presented below.
실시예Example
<실시예 1 내지 3><Examples 1 to 3>
하기 표 1에 나타낸 조성에 따라 수상부 (A) 및 (C), 유상부(B) 및 첨가제부(D)를 혼합하였으며, 그 제조방법은 다음과 같다.According to the composition shown in Table 1 below, the aqueous phase parts (A) and (C), the oil phase part (B) and the additive part (D) were mixed, and the preparation method is as follows.
(1) 수상부 (A)를 온도조절과 교반이 가능한 진공 유화조 내에 투입하였고, 온도를 70 내지 80℃ 유지하면서 호모믹서로 1,500 내지 2,000rpm의 속도로 5 내지 10분간 교반하여 균일하게 혼합시켰다. (1) The water phase part (A) was put into a vacuum emulsifying tank capable of temperature control and stirring, and stirred at a speed of 1,500 to 2,000 rpm with a homomixer for 5 to 10 minutes while maintaining the temperature at 70 to 80° C. .
(2) 유상부 (B)를 교반이 가능한 유상 용해조에 투입하여 80 내지 120℃로 가온 교반하여 균일하게 혼합시켰다.(2) The oil phase part (B) was put into an oil phase dissolution tank capable of stirring, and the mixture was uniformly mixed by heating and stirring at 80 to 120°C.
(3) 상기 준비된 유상 용해조의 유상부를 진공 유화조의 수상부에 투입하여 호모 믹서로 2,000 내지 2,500rpm의 속도로 5 내지 10분간 교반하여 혼합시켰다. (3) The oil phase of the prepared oil phase dissolution tank was put into the aqueous phase of the vacuum emulsification tank, and the mixture was stirred by a homomixer at a speed of 2,000 to 2,500 rpm for 5 to 10 minutes.
(4) 진공 유화조에 수상부 (C)를 투입하여 호모 믹서로 2,000 내지 2,500rpm의 속도로 5 내지 10분간 교반하여 혼합한 다음 40 내지 45℃로 냉각시켰다. (4) The aqueous phase part (C) was put into the vacuum emulsifying tank, and the mixture was stirred by a homo mixer at a speed of 2,000 to 2,500 rpm for 5 to 10 minutes, and then cooled to 40 to 45°C.
(5) 진공 유화조에 첨가제부 (D)를 투입하여 균일하게 혼합시킨 다음 진공 유화조에 첨가하여 패들 믹서 25 내지 30 rpm의 속도로 5 내지 10분간 교반한 후, 30 내지 35℃까지 냉각시켜 실시예 1 내지 3의 수중유형 화장료 조성물을 제조하였다. (5) After adding the additive part (D) to the vacuum emulsification tank and uniformly mixing it, it was added to the vacuum emulsification tank and stirred at a speed of 25 to 30 rpm with a paddle mixer for 5 to 10 minutes, and then cooled to 30 to 35 ° C. 1 to 3 oil-in-water cosmetic compositions were prepared.
상(Phase)Phase | 성분(중량%)Ingredients (wt%) | 실시예1Example 1 | 실시예2Example 2 | 실시예3Example 3 |
수상부(A)Award Division (A) | 정제수Purified water | 75.3275.32 | 65.6965.69 | 54.3154.31 |
부틸렌글라이콜Butylene Glycol | 3.003.00 | 3.003.00 | 3.003.00 | |
보존제preservative | 0.500.50 | 0.500.50 | 0.500.50 | |
잔탄검xanthan gum | 0.050.05 | 0.100.10 | 0.150.15 | |
아크릴레이트/C10-30알킬아크릴레이트크로스폴리머Acrylate/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer | 0.100.10 | 0.200.20 | 0.300.30 | |
유상부(B)Breast part (B) | 하이드로제네이티드폴리아이소부텐Hydrogenated polyisobutene | 5.005.00 | 7.007.00 | 9.009.00 |
카프릴릭/카프릭트라이글리세라이드Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides | 5.005.00 | 7.007.00 | 9.009.00 | |
세틸에틸헥사노에이트Cetylethylhexanoate | 5.005.00 | 7.007.00 | 9.009.00 | |
에이치디아이/트라이메틸올헥실락톤크로스폴리머HDI/trimethylolhexyllactone crosspolymer | 0.050.05 | 0.150.15 | 0.300.30 | |
다이부틸라우로일글루타마이드dibutyllauroylglutamide | 0.100.10 | 0.500.50 | 1.001.00 | |
다이부틸에틸헥사노일글루타마이드Dibutylethylhexanoylglutamide | 0.100.10 | 0.500.50 | 1.001.00 | |
마이크로크리스탈린왁스microcrystalline wax | 0.500.50 | 1.001.00 | 2.002.00 | |
실리카silica | 3.003.00 | 5.005.00 | 8.008.00 | |
수상부(C)Award Division (C) | 정제수Purified water | 2.002.00 | 2.002.00 | 2.002.00 |
트로메타민tromethamine | 0.080.08 | 0.160.16 | 0.240.24 | |
첨가제부(D)Additive part (D) | 향료Spices | 0.200.20 | 0.200.20 | 0.200.20 |
<비교예 1 및 2><Comparative Examples 1 and 2>
하기 표 2에 나타낸 바와 같이, 상기 <실시예 1 내지 3>의 유상부 (B)에서 오일 겔화제 4종(에이치디아이/트라이메틸올헥실락톤크로스폴리머, 다이부틸라우로일글루타마이드, 다이부틸에틸헥사노일글루타마이드 및 마이크로크리스탈린왁스)과 실리카가 아닌 계면활성제인 폴리솔베이트60을 사용하는 것을 제외하고는 상기 실시예 1 내지 3의 화장료 조성물과 동일한 방법으로 비교예 1 및 2의 화장료 조성물을 제조하였다.As shown in Table 2 below, in the oil phase (B) of <Examples 1 to 3>, 4 types of oil gelling agents (HDI/trimethylolhexyllactone crosspolymer, dibutyllauroylglutamide, dibutylethyl The cosmetic compositions of Comparative Examples 1 and 2 in the same manner as the cosmetic compositions of Examples 1 to 3, except that hexanoylglutamide and microcrystalline wax) and polysorbate 60, a surfactant other than silica, were used. was prepared.
상(Phase)Phase | 성분(중량%)Ingredients (wt%) | 비교예1Comparative Example 1 | 비교예2Comparative Example 2 |
수상부(A)Award Division (A) | 정제수Purified water | 78.0778.07 | 70.8470.84 |
부틸렌글라이콜Butylene Glycol | 3.003.00 | 3.003.00 | |
보존제preservative | 0.500.50 | 0.500.50 | |
잔탄검xanthan gum | 0.050.05 | 0.100.10 | |
아크릴레이트/C10-30알킬아크릴레이트크로스폴리머Acrylate/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer | 0.100.10 | 0.200.20 | |
유상부(B)Breast part (B) | 하이드로제네이티드폴리아이소부텐Hydrogenated polyisobutene | 5.005.00 | 7.007.00 |
카프릴릭/카프릭트라이글리세라이드Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides | 5.005.00 | 7.007.00 | |
세틸에틸헥사노에이트Cetylethylhexanoate | 5.005.00 | 7.007.00 | |
폴리솔베이트60Polysorbate 60 | 1.001.00 | 2.002.00 | |
수상부(C)Award Division (C) | 정제수Purified water | 2.002.00 | 2.002.00 |
트로메타민tromethamine | 0.080.08 | 0.160.16 | |
첨가제부(D)Additive part (D) | 향료Spices | 0.200.20 | 0.200.20 |
<시험예 1> 입자 비교 테스트<Test Example 1> Particle comparison test
상기 실시예 1에서 제조한 본 발명의 화장료 조성물과 비교예 1의 화장료 조성물을 Optical microscope (BX53F2, Olympus, Japan)를 이용하여 입자의 모양 및 크기를 비교, 평가하였다. 그 결과를 하기 도 1과 표 3에 나타내었다.The cosmetic composition of the present invention prepared in Example 1 and the cosmetic composition of Comparative Example 1 were compared and evaluated for particle shape and size using an optical microscope (BX53F2, Olympus, Japan). The results are shown in FIG. 1 and Table 3 below.
시료sample | 입자사이즈(㎛)Particle size (㎛) | 평균(㎛)Average (μm) | ||||
실시예1Example 1 | 4.484.48 | 8.188.18 | 6.726.72 | 5.335.33 | 7.397.39 | 6.42 6.42 |
비교예1Comparative Example 1 | 3.553.55 | 3.643.64 | 4.044.04 | 4.154.15 | 3.783.78 | 3.83 3.83 |
입자의 모양 및 크기를 비교, 평가해 본 결과, 계면활성제가 함유되어 있는 비교예 1은 입자가 작고 조밀하게 형성되어 있으나 계면활성제가 함유되어 있지 않은 실시예 1의 경우는 입자가 비교적 크고 조밀도도 비교예 1에 비하여 낮은 형태를 확인할 수 있다. 이러한 실시예 1의 결과는 계면활성제 미함유에 의한 현상으로 분석될 수 있으며 화장료를 피부에 적용 시 입자가 크고 안정적이므로 시각적으로 투명하게 발리는 듯한 효과와 피부에 즉각적인 수분 공급 및 산뜻하고 촉촉한 사용감이 구현된다.As a result of comparing and evaluating the shape and size of the particles, Comparative Example 1 containing the surfactant had small and dense particles, but in Example 1 without the surfactant, the particles were relatively large and dense. It can also be confirmed that the lower form compared to Comparative Example 1. The result of Example 1 can be analyzed as a phenomenon caused by the absence of surfactant, and when the cosmetic is applied to the skin, the particles are large and stable, so the effect of visually transparent application and immediate moisture supply to the skin and a fresh and moist feeling are realized. do.
<시험예 2> 피부 보습력 테스트<Test Example 2> Skin moisturizing power test
본 발명의 화장료의 피부 보습력 개선 효과를 알아보기 위하여 다음과 같이 실험을 실시하였다. 피부 질환이 없는 20~50대 40명을 대상으로 1조 당 20명씩 2개조로 나누어 각 조별 시험 대상자에 대하여 상기 실시예 1에서 제조한 본 발명의 화장료 조성물과 비교예 1의 화장료 조성물을 매일 2회씩 1개월간 얼굴 및 전박부에 도포하게 하였다. 미리 도포 시작 전 항온, 항습 조건(24도, 습도 40%)에서 Corneometer(CM820 courage, Khazaka electronic GmbH, Germany)를 이용하여 피부 전도도를 측정하여 기본 값을 삼고, 1주, 2주, 4주 경과 후의 피부 전도도를 측정하여 그 증가율을 평가하였다. 그 결과를 하기 표 4에 나타내었다.In order to examine the skin moisturizing effect of the cosmetic of the present invention, an experiment was conducted as follows. For 40 people in their 20s and 50s without skin disease, each group was divided into two groups of 20 people per group. For each test subject in each group, the cosmetic composition of the present invention prepared in Example 1 and the cosmetic composition of Comparative Example 1 were administered daily 2 It was applied to the face and forearm for 1 month each time. Before application, the skin conductivity was measured using a Corneometer (CM820 courage, Khazaka electronic GmbH, Germany) under constant temperature and humidity conditions (24 degrees, 40% humidity) before starting application, and the basic value was taken, and 1 week, 2 weeks, and 4 weeks had elapsed. After measuring the skin conductivity, the rate of increase was evaluated. The results are shown in Table 4 below.
시료sample | 1주후1 week later | 2주후2 weeks later | 4주후4 weeks later |
실시예1Example 1 | 5757 | 6060 | 5858 |
비교예1Comparative Example 1 | 2323 | 2121 | 2222 |
상기 표 4의 결과에서 보는 바와 같이, 본 발명의 화장료인 실시예 1의 경우 비교예 1에 비하여 피부 전도도 증가율이 매우 우수하였다. 즉, 본 발명의 화장료는 피부 보습력 개선 효과가 탁월함을 알 수 있었다.As shown in the results of Table 4, in the case of Example 1, which is the cosmetic of the present invention, the skin conductivity increase rate was very excellent compared to Comparative Example 1. That is, it was found that the cosmetic of the present invention has excellent skin moisturizing effect.
<시험예 3> 관능평가<Test Example 3> Sensory evaluation
본 발명의 화장료 조성물의 피부 상태 개선 효과를 알아보기 위하여 다음과 같이 실험을 실시하였다. 피부 질환이 없는 20~50대 50명을 대상으로 1조 당 10명 씩 5개조로 나누어 각 조별 시험 대상자에 대하여 상기 실시예 1 내지 3에서 제조한 본 발명의 화장료 조성물과 비교예 1 및 2의 화장료 조성물을 매일 2회씩 1개월간 얼굴 및 전박부에 도포하게 하였다. 평가는 가려움증, 붉어짐, 피부당김, 건조함 변화의 각 항목에 대하여 제품의 효과에 대한 만족도를 1~5점(숫자가 클수록 만족도 높음)으로 구분하여 표시하도록 하였으며, 그 결과를 하기 표 5에 나타내었다.In order to examine the skin condition improvement effect of the cosmetic composition of the present invention, an experiment was conducted as follows. The cosmetic compositions of the present invention prepared in Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2 for each group were divided into 5 groups of 10 people per group for 50 people in their 20s and 50s without skin diseases. The cosmetic composition was applied to the face and forearm twice daily for 1 month. For the evaluation, the satisfaction with the effect of the product for each item of itching, redness, skin tightness, and dryness was divided into 1 to 5 points (the higher the number, the higher the satisfaction), and the results are shown in Table 5 below. it was
시료sample | 만족도(평균점수)Satisfaction (average score) | |||
가려움증 개선itching improvement | 붉어짐 개선redness improvement | 피부당김 개선skin tightening improvement | 건조함 개선dryness improvement | |
실시예1Example 1 | 4.64.6 | 4.54.5 | 4.44.4 | 4.34.3 |
실시예2Example 2 | 4.54.5 | 4.64.6 | 4.74.7 | 4.84.8 |
실시예3Example 3 | 4.34.3 | 4.24.2 | 4.64.6 | 4.54.5 |
비교예1Comparative Example 1 | 2.72.7 | 2.62.6 | 3.23.2 | 3.13.1 |
비교예2Comparative Example 2 | 2.52.5 | 2.72.7 | 3.23.2 | 3.33.3 |
상기 표 5의 결과에서 보는 바와 같이, 본 발명의 화장료 조성물인 실시예 1 내지 3의 경우가 비교예 1 및 2의 화장료 조성물에 비하여 가려움증, 붉어짐, 피부당김, 및 건조함을 개선하는 효과가 월등함을 알 수 있었다.As shown in the results of Table 5, the cosmetic compositions of Examples 1 to 3 of the present invention have superior effects in improving itching, redness, skin tightness, and dryness compared to the cosmetic compositions of Comparative Examples 1 and 2 could see that
또한, 실시예 1 내지 3의 마무리감의 경우 거의 비슷했으나 붉어짐 개선, 피부당김 개선 및 건조함 개선이 실시예 2가 가장 좋은 결과를 나타내어 실시예 2가 시각적으로 투명하게 발리는 듯한 효과와 촉촉한 사용감이 가장 우수하였다.In addition, in the case of the finish of Examples 1 to 3, although almost similar, Example 2 showed the best results in improvement of redness, skin tightening, and dryness, so that Example 2 had the visually transparent effect and moist feeling of use. was the best.
그러나, 비교예 1 및 2는 모두 유화력은 좋으나 사용감이 뻑뻑하고 건조하며 시각적으로 투명하게 발리는 듯한 현상도 없었다.However, Comparative Examples 1 and 2 both had good emulsifying power, but the feeling of use was stiff and dry, and there was no phenomenon of visually transparent application.
Claims (17)
- 오일; 폴리우레탄계 폴리머, 아미노산계 화합물, 및 왁스를 포함하는 오일 겔화제; 및 무기 입자를 포함하고, oil; an oil gelling agent including a polyurethane-based polymer, an amino acid-based compound, and a wax; and inorganic particles,오일 겔화제에 의해 겔화된 오일은 무기 입자에 흡유되며, 상기 무기 입자에 흡유된 겔화된 오일이 수상에 분산되는 수중유형 화장료 조성물.An oil-in-water cosmetic composition in which the oil gelled by the oil gelling agent is absorbed by inorganic particles, and the gelled oil absorbed by the inorganic particles is dispersed in an aqueous phase.
- 제 1 항에 있어서,The method of claim 1,상기 폴리우레탄계 폴리머는 에이치디아이/트라이메틸올헥실락톤크로스폴리머; 및 에이치디아이/피피지/폴리카프로락톤크로스폴리머로 이루어진 군에서 선택되는 하나 이상인 수중유형 화장료 조성물.The polyurethane-based polymer is HDI/trimethylolhexyllactone crosspolymer; And at least one oil-in-water cosmetic composition selected from the group consisting of HDI / PG / polycaprolactone cross polymer.
- 제 1 항에 있어서,The method of claim 1,상기 아미노산계 화합물은 다이부틸라우로일글루타마이드, 다이부틸에틸헥사노일글루타마이드, 또는 이들의 조합인 수중유형 화장료 조성물.The amino acid-based compound is dibutyl lauroyl glutamide, dibutyl ethyl hexanoyl glutamide, or a combination thereof, oil-in-water cosmetic composition.
- 제 1 항에 있어서,The method of claim 1,상기 왁스는 세레신 왁스, 폴리에틸렌 왁스, 마이크로크리스탈린 왁스, 파라핀 왁스, 오조케라이트를 포함하는 광물성 왁스 또는 카나우바 왁스, 칸데릴라 왁스를 포함하는 식물성 왁스로 이루어지는 군으로부터 선택되는 하나 이상인 수중유형 화장료 조성물. The wax is ceresin wax, polyethylene wax, microcrystalline wax, paraffin wax, mineral wax including ozokerite, or vegetable wax including carnauba wax and candelilla wax. At least one oil-in-water cosmetic composition selected from the group consisting of.
- 제 1 항에 있어서,The method of claim 1,상기 무기 입자는 실리카, 마이카, 세리사이트, 이산화티탄, 산화철, 징크옥사이드, 합성마이카, 알루미나, 질화붕소, 폴리메틸메타크릴레이트, 폴리메틸실세스퀴옥세인 및 폴리프로필실세스퀴옥세인으로 이루어진 군으로부터 선택되는 하나 이상인 수중유형 화장료 조성물.The inorganic particles are from the group consisting of silica, mica, sericite, titanium dioxide, iron oxide, zinc oxide, synthetic mica, alumina, boron nitride, polymethyl methacrylate, polymethylsilsesquioxane and polypropylsilsesquioxane One or more oil-in-water cosmetic compositions selected.
- 제 1 항에 있어서,The method of claim 1,상기 오일 겔화제는 화장료 조성물 총 중량 대비 0.1 내지 15중량%인 수중유형 화장료 조성물.The oil-gelling agent is an oil-in-water cosmetic composition in an amount of 0.1 to 15% by weight based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
- 제 1 항에 있어서,The method of claim 1,상기 폴리우레탄계 폴리머는 화장료 조성물 총 중량 대비 0.01 내지 1중량%이고, 상기 아미노산계 화합물은 화장료 조성물 총 중량 대비 0.05 내지 5중량%이며, 상기 왁스는 화장료 조성물 총 중량 대비 0.1 내지 5중량%인 수중유형 화장료 조성물.The polyurethane-based polymer is 0.01 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition, the amino acid-based compound is 0.05 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition, and the wax is 0.1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. cosmetic composition.
- 제 1 항에 있어서,The method of claim 1,상기 무기 입자는 화장료 조성물 총 중량 대비 1 내지 10중량%인 수중유형 화장료 조성물.The inorganic particles are oil-in-water cosmetic composition in an amount of 1 to 10% by weight based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
- 제 1 항에 있어서,The method of claim 1,상기 무기 입자에 흡유된 겔화된 오일이 계면활성제 없이 수상에 분산되는 수중유형 화장료 조성물.An oil-in-water cosmetic composition in which the gelled oil absorbed by the inorganic particles is dispersed in an aqueous phase without a surfactant.
- 제 1 항에 있어서,The method of claim 1,상기 수상은 수상 증점제를 추가로 포함하는 수중유형 화장료 조성물.The aqueous phase is an oil-in-water cosmetic composition further comprising an aqueous thickener.
- 제 10 항에 있어서,11. The method of claim 10,상기 수상 증점제는 셀룰로오스검, 하이드록시에칠셀룰로오스, 겔란검, 하이드록시프로필스타치포스페이트, 소듐폴리아크릴레이트스타치, 잔탄검, 하이드록시에칠아크릴레이트/소듐아크릴로일디메칠타우레이트코폴리머, 폴리아크릴레이트-13, 아크릴레이트/C10-30알킬아크릴레이트크로스폴리머, 카보머, 소듐폴리아크릴레이트 및 소듐아크릴레이트코폴리머로 이루어진 군으로부터 선택된 하나 이상을 포함하는 수중유형 화장료 조성물.The aqueous thickener is cellulose gum, hydroxyethyl cellulose, gellan gum, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, sodium polyacrylate starch, xanthan gum, hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, An oil-in-water cosmetic composition comprising at least one selected from the group consisting of polyacrylate-13, acrylate/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, carbomer, sodium polyacrylate and sodium acrylate copolymer.
- 제 10 항에 있어서,11. The method of claim 10,상기 무기 입자에 흡유된 겔화된 오일이 수상 증점제에 의해 3차원 망상의 사슬 구조를 포함하는 네트워크가 형성된 수상에 분산되는 수중유형 화장료 조성물.An oil-in-water cosmetic composition in which the gelled oil absorbed by the inorganic particles is dispersed in an aqueous phase in which a network including a three-dimensional network chain structure is formed by an aqueous thickener.
- 제 1 항에 있어서,The method of claim 1,상기 폴리우레탄계 폴리머는 에이치디아이/트라이메틸올헥실락톤크로스폴리머이고, 상기 아미노산계 화합물은 다이부틸라우로일글루타마이드 및 다이부틸에틸헥사노일글루타마이드이고, 상기 왁스는 마이크로크리스탈린 왁스이며, 상기 무기 입자는 실리카인 수중유형 화장료 조성물.The polyurethane-based polymer is HDI/trimethylolhexyllactone crosspolymer, the amino acid-based compound is dibutyllauroylglutamide and dibutylethylhexanoylglutamide, the wax is microcrystalline wax, and the An oil-in-water cosmetic composition wherein the inorganic particles are silica.
- 제 1 항에 있어서,The method of claim 1,상기 오일은 식물성 오일, 광물성 오일, 탄화수소계 오일, 에스테르계 오일, 실리콘 오일 및 합성 오일로 선택되는 군으로부터 선택되는 하나 이상을 포함하는 수중유형 화장료 조성물.The oil is an oil-in-water cosmetic composition comprising at least one selected from the group consisting of vegetable oils, mineral oils, hydrocarbon oils, ester oils, silicone oils, and synthetic oils.
- 하기 단계를 포함하는 것을 특징으로 하는 수중유형 화장료 조성물의 제조방법:A method for preparing an oil-in-water cosmetic composition comprising the steps of:(A) 수상 증점제를 포함하는 제1수상부를 제조하는 단계;(A) preparing a first aqueous phase comprising an aqueous phase thickener;(B) 폴리우레탄계 폴리머, 아미노산계 화합물 및 왁스를 포함하는 오일 겔화제; 무기 입자 및 오일을 교반 혼합하여 유상부를 제조하는 단계; 및(B) an oil gelling agent comprising a polyurethane-based polymer, an amino acid-based compound, and a wax; preparing an oil phase by stirring and mixing inorganic particles and oil; and(C) 상기 제1수상부와 유상부를 교반 혼합하는 단계.(C) stirring and mixing the first aqueous phase part and the oil phase part.
- 제 15 항에 있어서,16. The method of claim 15,상기 (A) 내지 (C) 단계 후 추가로 하기 단계를 포함하는 것을 특징으로 하는 수중유형 화장료 조성물의 제조방법: Method for producing an oil-in-water cosmetic composition comprising the following steps after the steps (A) to (C):(D) 중화제를 포함하는 제2수상부를 (C) 의 교반 혼합물에 투입하여 혼합시키는 단계; 및 (D) adding a second aqueous phase containing a neutralizing agent to the stirred mixture of (C) and mixing; and(E) 향료를 포함하는 첨가제부를 상기 (D) 에서 제조한 혼합물에 투입하여 혼합시킨 후 냉각시키는 단계.(E) the step of cooling the additive part containing the flavoring after mixing in the mixture prepared in (D).
- 제 15 항에 있어서, 하기 단계를 포함하는 것을 특징으로 하는 수중유형 화장료 조성물의 제조방법:The method according to claim 15, wherein the method for preparing an oil-in-water cosmetic composition comprises the following steps:(A) 수상 증점제, 보습제 및 보존제를 혼합하여 60 내지 90℃에서 1,000 내지 3,000rpm의 속도로 3 내지 15분간 혼합 및 교반시켜 제1수상부를 제조하는 단계;(A) mixing an aqueous phase thickener, a moisturizing agent, and a preservative, mixing and stirring at 60 to 90° C. at a speed of 1,000 to 3,000 rpm for 3 to 15 minutes to prepare a first aqueous phase;(B) 폴리우레탄계 폴리머, 아미노산계 화합물 및 왁스를 포함하는 오일 겔화제; 무기 입자 및 오일을 혼합하여 60 내지 150℃에서 가온 교반 혼합하여 유상부를 제조하는 단계; 및(B) an oil gelling agent comprising a polyurethane-based polymer, an amino acid-based compound, and a wax; preparing an oil phase by mixing inorganic particles and oil and heating and stirring at 60 to 150° C.; and(C) 상기 제1수상부와 상기 유상부를 1,500 내지 3,000rpm의 속도로 3 내지 15분간 교반 혼합하는 단계.(C) stirring and mixing the first water phase part and the oil phase part at a speed of 1,500 to 3,000 rpm for 3 to 15 minutes.
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KR102029653B1 (en) * | 2018-11-13 | 2019-10-08 | 코스맥스 주식회사 | Solid foundation cosmetic compositions having various three-dimensional shapes |
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KR20020060865A (en) * | 2001-01-12 | 2002-07-19 | 주식회사 엘지씨아이 | Color cosmetic composition with silica carrying volatile oils |
KR20100079347A (en) * | 2008-12-31 | 2010-07-08 | 주식회사 코리아나화장품 | Water-in-oil type cosmetic composition characterized sherbet-balm |
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JP2020164448A (en) * | 2019-03-29 | 2020-10-08 | 株式会社コーセー | Oily cosmetic |
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