WO2022136765A1 - Procédé de bouclage de cheveux - Google Patents
Procédé de bouclage de cheveux Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- WO2022136765A1 WO2022136765A1 PCT/FR2021/052294 FR2021052294W WO2022136765A1 WO 2022136765 A1 WO2022136765 A1 WO 2022136765A1 FR 2021052294 W FR2021052294 W FR 2021052294W WO 2022136765 A1 WO2022136765 A1 WO 2022136765A1
- Authority
- WO
- WIPO (PCT)
- Prior art keywords
- mandrel
- hair
- lock
- winding
- around
- Prior art date
Links
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 38
- 238000004804 winding Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 78
- 230000008878 coupling Effects 0.000 claims description 34
- 238000010168 coupling process Methods 0.000 claims description 34
- 238000005859 coupling reaction Methods 0.000 claims description 34
- 238000010438 heat treatment Methods 0.000 claims description 25
- 230000008569 process Effects 0.000 claims description 10
- 230000003811 curling process Effects 0.000 description 7
- 230000015556 catabolic process Effects 0.000 description 6
- 238000006731 degradation reaction Methods 0.000 description 6
- 230000014509 gene expression Effects 0.000 description 5
- 230000002688 persistence Effects 0.000 description 4
- 230000000930 thermomechanical effect Effects 0.000 description 4
- 230000003100 immobilizing effect Effects 0.000 description 3
- 238000006073 displacement reaction Methods 0.000 description 2
- 230000001815 facial effect Effects 0.000 description 2
- 210000003128 head Anatomy 0.000 description 2
- 230000002441 reversible effect Effects 0.000 description 2
- 238000007493 shaping process Methods 0.000 description 2
- 230000000295 complement effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000010586 diagram Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000009477 glass transition Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000005259 measurement Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000012986 modification Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000004048 modification Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000005096 rolling process Methods 0.000 description 1
- 210000004761 scalp Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 238000006467 substitution reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000000725 suspension Substances 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
- A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
- A45D7/00—Processes of waving, straightening or curling hair
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
- A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
- A45D1/00—Curling-tongs, i.e. tongs for use when hot; Curling-irons, i.e. irons for use when hot; Accessories therefor
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
- A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
- A45D2/00—Hair-curling or hair-waving appliances ; Appliances for hair dressing treatment not otherwise provided for
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
- A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
- A45D7/00—Processes of waving, straightening or curling hair
- A45D7/02—Processes of waving, straightening or curling hair thermal
Definitions
- the present invention relates to a process for curling hair, and more particularly to a process for thermo-mechanical curling of hair.
- thermo-mechanical curling of hair comprises, in a known manner, the following steps:
- a hairdressing device comprising a mandrel which is heated and which has a radius of winding of a lock of hair greater than 10 mm, for example approximately 12.5 mm,
- a high winding stress on the lock of hair in particular greater than 20 MPa, and for example of approximately 30 MPa, induces a degradation of the internal structure of the hair, in particular of the hair fiber. hair.
- the present invention aims to remedy all or part of these drawbacks.
- the technical problem underlying the invention consists in particular in providing a process for curling hair which makes it possible to obtain curls having a high remanence, while limiting the risks of degradation of the hair.
- the present invention relates to a process for curling hair, advantageously a process for thermo-mechanical curling of hair, comprising the following steps:
- a hairdressing device comprising a mandrel which is heated and which has a radius of winding of a lock of hair of between 2.5 and 7.5 mm, for example between 4 and 6 mm and advantageously of 5mm order,
- mandrel which is heated designates various types of mandrel well known to those skilled in the art. Thus, it covers in particular a directly heating mandrel, that is to say a mandrel which can itself provide heat, for example by comprising a heating element, such as an electrical resistor for example; in other words the heat is internal to the chuck.
- This expression also covers an indirectly heated chuck, that is to say a chuck which will release the heat it has accumulated, for example after being placed in a hot environment, or by receiving heat from the outside, for example by receiving a flow of hot air.
- mandrel is meant any shape, preferably cylindrical, serving as a support for rolling up an element, in this case hair.
- the mandrel may have a round, oval, multi-lobed (cloverleaf-shaped) section, etc.
- the applicant has found surprisingly that the winding of a lock of hair around a mandrel having a small winding radius, and therefore of small diameter, with a low winding stress makes it possible to obtain curls having a persistence greater than that obtained with the hair curling methods of the prior art.
- the curling process according to the present invention makes it possible to obtain curls that hold over time, while substantially reducing the internal degradation of the hair due to the fact that the latter undergo only very low winding stresses during the winding step.
- the hair curling method may additionally have one or more of the following characteristics, taken alone or in combination.
- the mandrel has a mandrel diameter of between 5 and 15 mm, for example between 8 and 12 mm and advantageously of the order of 10 mm.
- the winding step and the application step are carried out simultaneously.
- the curling method further comprises heating the lock of hair which is wrapped around the mandrel to a heating temperature of between 110 and 150° C., and preferably lower than 144°C which corresponds to the glass transition temperature of a hair.
- the heating temperature may for example be between 120 and 140°C and advantageously be of the order of 130°C. It was previously accepted in the prior art that it was necessary to heat a lock of hair wrapped around a mandrel at a high temperature, in particular of the order of 200° C., to obtain loops having a high remanence. However, the applicant has surprisingly found that heating a lock of hair, which is wound around a mandrel, to a temperature of between 110 and 150° C. is sufficient to obtain curls having a high persistence. These provisions therefore make it possible to further limit the risks of degradation of the hair wound around the mandrel.
- the winding step consists of manually or automatically winding the lock of hair around the mandrel.
- the hairdressing appliance comprises a gripping body configured to allow a user to be able to manipulate the hairdressing appliance.
- the mandrel is configured to be coupled in rotation to the gripping body, that is to say is integral in rotation with the gripping body, and the winding step consists in rotating the gripping body about an axis of rotation which is substantially parallel to an axis of extension of the mandrel so as to manually wind the lock of hair around the mandrel.
- the chuck is fixedly mounted on the gripping body.
- the hairdressing appliance comprises a drive motor configured to drive the mandrel in rotation about an axis of rotation which is substantially parallel to an axis of extension of the mandrel, and the winding step consists of driving the mandrel in rotation so as to automatically wind the lock of hair around the mandrel.
- the hairdressing appliance comprises a winder mounted rotatably around the mandrel and a drive motor configured to drive the winder in rotation around the mandrel, and the winding step consists in driving the winder in rotation so as to automatically wind the lock of hair around the mandrel.
- the hairdressing appliance comprises a housing which is fixed to the gripping body and which contains the winder and the mandrel.
- the housing comprises a facial opening provided at a free end of the housing which is located opposite the gripping body, and a first side opening and a second side opening which are each extend from the facial aperture toward the grip body.
- the housing and the winder at least partially delimit an outer chamber configured to accommodate the lock of hair before it is shaped, and the mandrel and the winder at least partially delimit a internal chamber configured to accommodate the lock of hair after it has been shaped.
- the hairdressing appliance comprises a hair immobilizing device which is arranged at a distal end of the mandrel.
- the hair immobilization device may for example comprise a plurality of barbs projecting from the distal end of the mandrel.
- the hairdressing appliance comprises a coupling member, such as a clutch, which is movable between a coupling position in which the coupling member is mechanically coupled to the chuck or the reel, and an uncoupling position in which the coupling member is mechanically uncoupled from the chuck or the reel, the coupling member being configured to occupy the coupling position when the constraint winding stress applied to the lock of hair that is wrapped around the mandrel is less than 0.25 MPa, and to be moved to the uncoupling position when the winding stress applied to the lock of hair that is wrapped around the mandrel reaches or exceeds 0.25 MPa.
- a coupling member such as a clutch
- the coupling member is configured to occupy the coupling position as long as a winding torque applied to the mandrel or the winder, for example by a user via the gripping body or by the driving motor, during the winding step remains lower than a predetermined value, and to be moved into the uncoupling position when the winding torque applied to the mandrel or the winder during the step winding becomes greater than or equal to the predetermined value.
- the coupling member is mechanically interposed between the gripping body and the chuck, or between an output shaft of the drive motor and the chuck, or even between the drive motor output shaft and winder.
- the hairdressing appliance comprises a stress sensor which is configured to determine the winding stress applied to the lock of hair which is wound around the mandrel, and a control unit which is configured to move the coupling member into the uncoupling position when the winding strain determined by the strain sensor reaches or exceeds 0.25 MPa.
- the hairdressing device comprises a retaining member which is mounted to move between a first operating position in which the retaining member is remote from the mandrel so as to allow positioning of a lock of hair between the mandrel and the retainer, and a second operating position in which the retainer is configured to bear against the mandrel so as to allow the lock of hair to be pinched between the mandrel and the retainer.
- the hairdressing appliance comprises a heating element which is integrated into the mandrel and which is configured to heat the mandrel.
- Figure 1 is a diagram representing the steps of a hair curling process according to the present invention.
- FIG. 2 is a perspective view of a hairdressing device that can be used in the context of the method for curling hair according to the present invention.
- FIG. 3 is a cutaway perspective view of another hairdressing device that can be used in the context of the method of curling hair according to the present invention.
- Figure 4 is a schematic representation of a sectional view of a lock of hair at the start of its winding around a mandrel according to the curling method of the invention.
- Figure 5 is a schematic representation of a sectional view of a lock of hair at the end of its winding around a mandrel according to the curling method of the invention.
- the present invention relates to a process for the thermo-mechanical curling of hair comprising in particular a supply step SI consisting in supplying a hairdressing appliance.
- FIG. 2 shows an embodiment of a hairdressing appliance 1 that can be provided in the supply step SI.
- the hairdressing appliance 1 comprises a gripping body 2, such as a gripping handle or a gripping handle, which is configured to allow a user to manipulate the hairdressing appliance 1 during its use.
- the hairdressing appliance 1 further comprises a mandrel 3 which extends the gripping body 2 along a longitudinal axis A.
- the mandrel 3 has a winding radius r of a lock of hair X of between 2.5 and 7, 5 mm, for example between 4 and 6 mm and advantageously of the order of 5 mm.
- the mandrel 3 can for example be cylindrical and have a mandrel diameter of between 5 and 15 mm, for example between 8 and 12 mm and advantageously of the order of 10 mm.
- the mandrel 3 is coupled in rotation to the gripping body 2, that is to say that the mandrel 3 is for example mounted fixed on the gripping body 2.
- the gripping body 2 includes an inlet 200 for a power cord, for example an electric cord.
- the inlet 200 advantageously constitutes the reference point with respect to which the distal and proximal expressions refer: thus the expression “proximal end” refers to an end located on the side of the inlet 200 while on the contrary, the expression “distal end” refers to an end located opposite the inlet 200.
- the hairdressing device 1 further comprises a retaining member 4, such as a retaining tile, which is mounted so as to move relative to the gripping body 2 between a first operating position in which the retaining member 4 is moved away of the mandrel 3 so as to allow positioning of a lock of hair X between the mandrel 3 and the retaining member 4, and a second operating position in which the retaining member 4 is configured to bear against the mandrel 3 so as to allow the lock of hair to be pinched between the mandrel 3 and the retaining member 4.
- a retaining member 4 such as a retaining tile
- the retainer 4 has a globally arcuate shape which is adapted (that is to say of complementary shape) to that of the mandrel 3.
- the proximal end 5 of the retainer 4 is fixed to a manipulation finger 6 which is mounted articulated with respect to the distal end 7 of the gripping body 2. Pressure on the rear part 8 of the manipulation finger 6 makes it possible to move the retaining member 4 towards the first operating position, to allow the introduction of a lock of hair between the mandrel 3 and the retaining member 4.
- the distal end 11 of the retaining member 4 is located substantially opposite a distal end portion 12 of the mandrel 3.
- the hairdressing appliance 1 further comprises a heating element 13, such as an electrical resistance, which is integrated into the mandrel 3 and which is configured to heat the mandrel 3, and a control unit 14 which is configured to regulate the heating temperature of the heating element 13.
- a heating element 13 such as an electrical resistance
- the hairdressing appliance 1 could be devoid of a heating element, and be configured to restore the heat that it has accumulated, by for example after being placed in a hot environment, or to receive heat from the outside, for example from a flow of hot air.
- the curling method according to the present invention further comprises a winding step S2 consisting in winding a lock of hair around the mandrel 3.
- such a winding step S2 comprises in particular:
- a positioning step consisting in positioning a lock of hair between the retaining member 4 and the mandrel 3,
- a rotary drive step consisting in driving the gripping body 2 in rotation about an axis of rotation which is substantially parallel, and for example coincident, with the longitudinal axis A so as to manually roll up the lock of hair around the chuck 3.
- the apparatus for hairstyle 1 could comprise a drive motor configured to drive the mandrel 3 in rotation about an axis of rotation which is substantially parallel to, and for example coincident with, the longitudinal axis A, and the rotational drive step would then consist in driving the mandrel 3 in rotation around the axis of rotation so as to automatically wind the lock of hair around the mandrel 3.
- the mandrel 3 would then be mounted in pivot connection with respect to the gripping body 2, around the longitudinal axis A.
- the hairdressing appliance 1 supplied in the supply step SI could include, instead of the retaining member 4, a winder which is hollow and mounted rotatable around the mandrel 3, and furthermore a drive motor configured to drive the winder in rotation around an axis of rotation which is substantially parallel, and for example coinciding, with the longitudinal axis A, and the step drive in rotation would then consist in driving the winder in rotation so as to automatically wind the lock of hair around the mandrel 3.
- FIG. 3 represents a hairdressing appliance 1 according to this embodiment of the method of curling hair and which can be supplied in the supply step SI.
- the hairdressing device 1 represented in FIG. 3 comprises a casing 11 which is fixed to the gripping body 2 and which is hollow.
- the housing 11 comprises a free end 12 intended to be oriented substantially perpendicularly with the head of the user, and more particularly with his scalp, at the time of the curling operation.
- the housing 11 contains the mandrel 3, and forms in its interior a winding chamber 13 intended to accommodate the lock of hair, before its shaping, in an external chamber 131, then after its shaping, in an internal chamber 132.
- the housing 11 includes a face opening 14 made at the free end 12 of the housing 11, and also a first side opening 15 and a second side opening 16 which each extend from the face opening 14 in the direction of the body of grip 2.
- the first side opening 15 is designed to accommodate the lock of hair, in particular when the free end 12 is placed substantially perpendicular to the head of the user.
- the second side opening 16 is advantageously in the form of an inverted T notch from the free end 12. The particular shape of the second side opening 16 allows, when the lock of hair is placed in the "small bar" of the T, to maintain the lock of hair at the bottom of the second lateral opening 16, and to optimize the guidance of the latter during its winding.
- the hairdressing appliance 1 represented in FIG. 3 further comprises a winder 17 which is mounted so as to be able to rotate with respect to the mandrel 3 and which is configured to wind a lock of hair around the mandrel 3 during the rotation of the winder
- the reel 17 in a predetermined direction.
- the reel 17 is arranged in the housing 11.
- the winder 17 is hollow and has a shape of revolution.
- the winder 17 is positioned coaxially around the mandrel 3.
- the winder 17 has a first longitudinal end 171 which is secured to a toothed wheel 18. This toothed wheel
- the winder 17 preferably has a conical shape which expands in the direction of the distal end of the mandrel 3.
- the winder 17 could however have a surface of revolution of cylindrical rather than conical shape.
- the retractor 17 comprises a notch 172, or cutout, which extends over its surface of revolution and which opens onto a free edge 173 at a second longitudinal end 174 of said retractor 17.
- Two hooks 175 are arranged opposite in the extension of the free edge 173, at the two ends of the notch 172.
- the hairdressing appliance 1 represented in FIG. 3 also comprises a hair immobilizing device 22 arranged at the distal end of the mandrel 3.
- This hair immobilizing device 22 comprises a plurality of pins 221 projecting at the distal end of the mandrel 3.
- This hair immobilization device 22 makes it possible to guide the lock of hair during its winding so as to prevent the lock from rotating around the distal end of the mandrel 3.
- this hair immobilization device 22 allows the release of the curly lock without damaging it.
- the retractor 17 When the retractor 17 is driven in rotation, the latter carries the lock of hair which remains guided on one of the pins 221 of the hair immobilizer 22, forcing it to wrap around the mandrel. 3.
- the direction of the loops made therefore depends on the direction of rotation of the winder 17. One could however provide a single direction of looping without departing from the scope of the invention.
- the hairdressing device 1 is an automatic hairdressing device for automatically winding a lock of hair around the mandrel 3.
- the user does not have to wrap the lock of hair around the mandrel 3 himself: he just has to activate a switch and the hairdressing device 1 goes automatically, thanks to the winder 17, wind the lock of hair around the mandrel 3.
- the curling method according to the present invention also comprises a heating step S3 consisting in heating the lock of hair which is wrapped around the mandrel 3 to a heating temperature of between 110 and 150° C., for example between 120 and 140° C. and advantageously of the order of 130°C.
- the curling process according to the present invention further comprises an application step S4 consisting in applying a winding stress of less than or equal to 0.25 MPa on the lock of hair which is wound around the mandrel 3.
- the hairdressing appliance 1 provided in the supply step SI further comprises a coupling member, for example mechanically interposed between the gripping body 2 and the mandrel 3 or between the chuck 3 and an output shaft of the aforementioned drive motor, movable between a coupling position in which the coupling member is mechanically coupled to the chuck 3, and an uncoupling position in which the coupling member is mechanically uncoupled from the mandrel 3, the coupling member being configured to occupy the coupling position when the winding stress applied to the lock of hair which is wound around the mandrel 3 is less than 0.25 MPa, and for be moved into the uncoupling position when the winding stress applied to the lock of hair which is wound around the mandrel 3 reaches or exceeds 0.25 MPa.
- a coupling member for example mechanically interposed between the gripping body 2 and the mandrel 3 or between the chuck 3 and an output shaft of the aforementioned drive motor, movable between a coupling position in which the coupling member is mechanically coupled to the
- the coupling member is mechanically interposed between the drive motor and the reel.
- Such a configuration of the coupling member makes it possible to no longer be able to transmit a rotational torque to the mandrel 3 when the winding stress applied to the lock of hair which is wound around the mandrel 3 reaches or exceeds 0.25 MPa, and therefore to limit the degradation of the hair during the winding step.
- a movement of the coupling member between the coupling and uncoupling positions could for example be controlled mechanically.
- the coupling member could be configured to occupy the coupling position as long as a winding torque applied to the mandrel 3, for example by a user via the gripping body 2 or by the motor of drive if the hairdressing appliance is motorized, during the winding step remains below a predetermined value, and to be moved into the uncoupling position when the winding torque applied to the mandrel 3 during the winding step reaches or exceeds the predetermined value.
- Movement of the coupling member between the coupling and uncoupling positions could also be controlled electrically or electronically.
- the hairdressing appliance 1 could include a stress sensor configured to determine the winding stress applied to the strand of hair which is wrapped around the mandrel 3, and the control unit 14 could be configured to control a movement of the coupling member into the uncoupling position when the winding stress determined by the stress sensor reaches or exceeds 0.25 MPa.
- Hair curling methods were applied to test hair strands formed from real human hair.
- Hair curling methods differ in particular in the curling parameters used, such as the heating temperature applied during the heating step, the mandrel diameter of the mandrel used during the winding step and the stress of winding applied during the application step.
- a first table showing the variation of a curvature index, also called Curl Index, as a function of the heating temperature and the mandrel diameter is reproduced below.
- the results mentioned in the first table were obtained by applying a winding stress of 0.25 MPa during the application step.
- the curvature index corresponds to a ratio of the length of a lock of hair at rest after curling to the length of said lock of hair before curling in the extended state.
- the lock of hair is manually extended without extension.
- curvature index value mentioned in Table 2 corresponds to an average of several “curvature index” values obtained by applying the same curling process to at least five identical test locks of hair. The measurements were carried out 3 hours after the completion of the looping process according to the invention. It appears from Table 2 reproduced above that, contrary to an existing prejudice, a high heating temperature, for example of the order of 200° C., has very little influence on the curvature index. , and therefore on the remanence of a lock of hair.
Landscapes
- Physics & Mathematics (AREA)
- Thermal Sciences (AREA)
- Hair Curling (AREA)
- Shaping Of Tube Ends By Bending Or Straightening (AREA)
Abstract
Description
Claims
Priority Applications (2)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
EP21848005.1A EP4266943A1 (fr) | 2020-12-22 | 2021-12-13 | Procédé de bouclage de cheveux |
CN202180086550.8A CN116669589A (zh) | 2020-12-22 | 2021-12-13 | 卷发方法 |
Applications Claiming Priority (2)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
FRFR2013877 | 2020-12-22 | ||
FR2013877A FR3117746B1 (fr) | 2020-12-22 | 2020-12-22 | Procédé de bouclage de cheveux |
Publications (1)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
---|---|
WO2022136765A1 true WO2022136765A1 (fr) | 2022-06-30 |
Family
ID=74592257
Family Applications (1)
Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
---|---|---|---|
PCT/FR2021/052294 WO2022136765A1 (fr) | 2020-12-22 | 2021-12-13 | Procédé de bouclage de cheveux |
Country Status (4)
Country | Link |
---|---|
EP (1) | EP4266943A1 (fr) |
CN (1) | CN116669589A (fr) |
FR (1) | FR3117746B1 (fr) |
WO (1) | WO2022136765A1 (fr) |
Citations (2)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
FR2675985A1 (fr) * | 1991-04-30 | 1992-11-06 | Oreal | Procede pour appliquer une deformation a des cheveux en utilisant un bigoudi, et bigoudi pour la mise en óoeuvre d'un tel procede. |
EP2392222A1 (fr) * | 2010-06-07 | 2011-12-07 | Seb S.A. | Appareil de coiffure avec mandrin motorisé |
-
2020
- 2020-12-22 FR FR2013877A patent/FR3117746B1/fr active Active
-
2021
- 2021-12-13 CN CN202180086550.8A patent/CN116669589A/zh active Pending
- 2021-12-13 WO PCT/FR2021/052294 patent/WO2022136765A1/fr active Application Filing
- 2021-12-13 EP EP21848005.1A patent/EP4266943A1/fr active Pending
Patent Citations (2)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
FR2675985A1 (fr) * | 1991-04-30 | 1992-11-06 | Oreal | Procede pour appliquer une deformation a des cheveux en utilisant un bigoudi, et bigoudi pour la mise en óoeuvre d'un tel procede. |
EP2392222A1 (fr) * | 2010-06-07 | 2011-12-07 | Seb S.A. | Appareil de coiffure avec mandrin motorisé |
Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
---|---|
EP4266943A1 (fr) | 2023-11-01 |
FR3117746A1 (fr) | 2022-06-24 |
CN116669589A (zh) | 2023-08-29 |
FR3117746B1 (fr) | 2022-11-18 |
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