WO2022048939A1 - Triglyceride of docosanoic acid / at least one long chain fatty acid and hair styling and restyling composition comprising the same - Google Patents

Triglyceride of docosanoic acid / at least one long chain fatty acid and hair styling and restyling composition comprising the same Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2022048939A1
WO2022048939A1 PCT/EP2021/073302 EP2021073302W WO2022048939A1 WO 2022048939 A1 WO2022048939 A1 WO 2022048939A1 EP 2021073302 W EP2021073302 W EP 2021073302W WO 2022048939 A1 WO2022048939 A1 WO 2022048939A1
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Prior art keywords
acid
long chain
fatty acid
chain fatty
docosanoic
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PCT/EP2021/073302
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French (fr)
Inventor
Ben Chuan ZHU
Markus Dierker
Takanori Wakebe
Aya Fujii
Zhen Zhang
Lan LIAO
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Basf Se
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Publication of WO2022048939A1 publication Critical patent/WO2022048939A1/en

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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37Esters of carboxylic acids
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring

Definitions

  • Triglyceride of docosanoic acid / at least one long chain fatty acid and hair styling and restyling composition comprising the same
  • the present invention relates to a triglyceride of docosanoic acid I at least one long chain fatty acid, wherein the long chain fatty acid has from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, is different from docosanoic acid and comprises eicosanoic acid and wherein the weight ratio of docosanoic acid to eicosanoic acid is in the range from 7 to 14, and relates to a hair styling and restyling composition comprising the same.
  • Hair wax is one kind of hair styling product containing wax to assist the holding of the hair. Comparing to hair gel, which usually uses polymer as the styling agent, hair wax provides more detailed expressions and accentuating hairstyle. It also allows restyling of hair without application of new product.
  • one of the main styling and restyling agent of hair wax is from various plant sourcing natural waxes, such as Candelilla wax, beeswax, palm wax, carnauba wax, lanolin etc., especially Candelilla wax.
  • the styling and restyling agent of hair wax can also be petrolatum-based waxes or fixation polymers.
  • Candelilla wax has the disadvantages like high price and limited supply.
  • the plant of candelilla is also facing distinguish.
  • natural waxes are often sticky and difficult to wash off.
  • petrolatum-based waxes usually have undesirable image in personal care.
  • synthetic waxes from the natural starting substances can be the alternatives of natural occurring waxes.
  • Tribehenin is a bio-based substance and can be prepared from the esterification of glycerol with behenic acid and/or other fatty acid.
  • the commercial products of tribehenin are mainly used in skincare and color cosmetics in the market. While, the inventor of the present invention found that the commercial products of tribehenin are not really suitable for the hair wax application due to the insufficient styling performance. Summary of the Invention
  • Another object of the present invention is to provide a hair styling and restyling composition
  • a hair styling and restyling composition comprising the triglyceride of docosanoic acid I at least one long chain fatty acid in a specific weight ratio, wherein the composition can show excellent styling performance without sticky sensory
  • a further objection of the present invention is to provide a process for preparing the triglyceride of docosanoic acid I at least one long chain fatty acid of the present invention.
  • a further objection of the present invention is to provide a process for preparing the hair styling and restyling composition of the present invention.
  • the triglyceride of docosanoic acid /at least one long chain fatty acid according to any one of items 1 to 3, wherein the C14-C30 fatty acid different from eicosanoic acid has from 14 to 25 carbon atoms, preferably from 16 to 24 carbon atoms.
  • the triglyceride of docosanoic acid /at least one long chain fatty acid according to any one of items 1 to 4, wherein the C14-C30 fatty acid different from eicosanoic acid is selected from do- decanoic acid, tetradecanoic acid, hexadecanoic acid, octadecanoic acid, isooctadecanoic acid, tetracosanoic acid, oleic acid, tall oil fatty acid, linolic acid, linoleic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, docosahexanoic acid and mixture thereof.
  • the triglyceride of docosanoic acid /at least one long chain fatty acid according to any one of items 1 to 5, wherein the C14-C30 fatty acid different from eicosanoic acid is selected from hexadecanoic acid, octadecanoic acid, tetracosanoic acid and mixture thereof, preferably from hexadecanoic acid, octadecanoic acid and mixture thereof.
  • the triglyceride of docosanoic acid /at least one long chain fatty acid according to any one of items 1 to 6, wherein the content of docosanoic acid is in the range from 30 to 80 wt.%, preferably from 40 to 70 wt.%, based on the total weight of docosanoic acid and the long chain fatty acid.
  • triglyceride of docosanoic acid /at least one long chain fatty acid according to any one of items 1 to 7, wherein the content of eicosanoic acid is in the range from 2 to 15 wt.%, preferably from 4 to 10 wt.%, based on the total weight of docosanoic acid and the long chain fatty acid.
  • triglyceride of docosanoic acid /at least one long chain fatty acid according to any one of items 1 to 8, wherein the long chain fatty acid further comprises octadecanoic acid in addition to eicosanoic acid.
  • triglyceride of docosanoic acid /at least one long chain fatty acid according to item 9, wherein the content of octadecanoic acid is in the range from 10 to 60 wt.%, preferably from 20 to 50 wt.%, based on the total weight of docosanoic acid and the long chain fatty acid.
  • a hair styling and restyling composition comprising a triglyceride of docosanoic acid /at least one long chain fatty acid according to any of items 1 to 10.
  • the hair styling and restyling composition according to item 11 wherein the triglyceride of docosanoic acid /at least one long chain fatty acid is comprised in an amount from 5 to 50 wt.%, preferably 8 to 40 wt.%, more preferably 10 to 30 wt.%, in each case relative to the weight of the hair styling and restyling composition.
  • composition according to item 11 or 12, wherein the composition further comprises an emollient or fatty substance.
  • composition further comprises an aqueous phase and the aqueous phase comprises at least one mono- or polyhydric alcohol with from 1 to 5 carbon atoms in addition to water.
  • composition according to any one of items 11 to 14, wherein the composition further comprises at least one emulsifier, preferably nonionic emulsifier.
  • the hair styling and restyling composition according to item 15 or 16 wherein the emulsifier is comprised in an amount from 0.5 to 10 wt.%, preferably 1 to 5 wt.%, in each case relative to the weight of the hair styling and restyling composition.
  • composition according to any one of items 11 to 17, wherein the composition further comprises at least one hair fixing polymer.
  • a process for preparing the triglyceride of docosanoic acid /at least one long chain fatty acid according to any of items 1 to 10, which comprises reacting glycerol with docosanoic acid and the long chain fatty acid optionally in the presence of a catalyst.
  • the triglyceride of docosanoic acid/ at least one long chain fatty acid in a specific weight ratio of docosanoic acid to eicosanoic acid according to the present invention is suitable for preparing a hair styling and restyling composition and the composition shows excellent styling performance, more particularly, the composition of the invention imparts a good holding performance to the treated hair without residue, waxy or sticky sensory comparing with the natural wax, especially, the hair treated with the present composition shows higher bending stiffness comparing with composition comprising the conventional tribehenin.
  • Figure 1 shows the results of sensory evaluation in example 3.
  • any specific values mentioned for a feature (comprising the specific values mentioned in a range as the end point) can be recombined to form a new range.
  • One aspect of the present invention is directed to a triglyceride of docosanoic acid I at least one long chain fatty acid, wherein the long chain fatty acid has from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, is different from docosanoic acid and comprises eicosanoic acid and wherein the weight ratio of docosanoic acid to eicosanoic acid is in the range from 7 to 14.
  • the term “long chain fatty acid” does not comprise docosanoic acid unless explicitly mentioned otherwise.
  • the weight ratio of docosanoic acid to eicosanoic acid can be in the range from 7, or 7.5, or 8, or 8.5, or 9 or 9.5, or 10 to 11 , or 11.5, or 12, or 12.5, or 13, or 13. 5, or 14, preferably in the range from 7 to 11 , more preferably from 9 to 11.
  • the weight ratio of docosanoic acid to eicosanoic acid means the weight ratio of the moiety derived from docosanoic acid to the moiety derived from eicosanoic acid in the triglyceride of docosanoic acid I at least one long chain fatty acid.
  • the long chain fatty acid can further comprise at least one C14-C30 fatty acid different from eicosanoic acid.
  • the C14-C30 fatty acid can be saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated.
  • the C14-C30 fatty acid can have from 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18 to 20, 21 , 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 14 to 25 carbon atoms, more preferably from 16 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 16, 17, 18, 19, 21 , 23 and 24 carbon atoms.
  • the C14-C30 fatty acid can be selected from dodecanoic acid, tetradecanoic acid, hexadecanoic acid, octadecanoic acid, isooctadecanoic acid, tetracosanoic acid, linolic acid, linoleic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, docosahexanoic acid and mixture thereof.
  • the C14-C30 fatty acid is selected from hexadecanoic acid, octadecanoic acid, tetracosanoic acid and mixture thereof, preferably from hexadecanoic acid, octadecanoic acid, and mixture thereof.
  • the content of C14-C30 fatty acid different from eicosanoic acid can be in the range from 5 to 60 wt.%, for example 10 wt.%, 20 wt.%, 30 wt.%, 40 wt.%, 50 wt.%, 55 wt.%, preferably from 8 to 55 wt.%, based on the total weight of docosanoic acid and the long chain fatty acid.
  • the content of docosanoic acid can be in the range from 35 to 80 wt.%, for example 40 wt.%, 45 wt.%, 50 wt.%, 55 wt.%, 60 wt.%, 65 wt.%, 70 wt.%, 75 wt.%, preferably from 40 to 70 wt%, based on the total weight of docosanoic acid and the long chain fatty acid.
  • any specific values mentioned here for the content of docosanoic acid can form a new range, for example from 40 to 80 wt.% or 50 to 70 wt.% etc.
  • the content of the docosanoic acid is the highest among the docosanoic acid and the long chain fatty acid, i.e. the content of docosanoic acid is higher than the content of each long chain fatty acid.
  • the content of docosanoic acid means the content of the moiety derived from docosanoic acid in the triglyceride of docosanoic acid I at least one long chain fatty acid of the present invention, which similarly applies to the content of any fatty acid mentioned in the present disclosure.
  • the content of eicosanoic acid can be in the range from 2 to 15 wt.%, for example 3 wt.%, 4 wt.%, 5 wt.%, 6 wt.%, 7 wt.%, 8 wt.%, 9 wt.%, 10 wt.%, 11 wt.%, 12 wt.%, 13 wt.%, 14 wt.%, preferably from 4 to 10 wt.%, based on the total weight of docosanoic acid and the long chain fatty acid.
  • the long chain fatty acid further comprises octadecanoic acid in addition to eicosanoic acid, i.e. the above mentioned C14-C30 fatty acid is octadecanoic acid.
  • the content of octadecanoic acid can be in the range from 10 to 60 wt.%, for example 15 wt.%, 20 wt.%, 25 wt.%, 30 wt.%, 35 wt.%, 40 wt.%, 45 wt.%, 50 wt.%, 55 wt.%, preferably from 20 to 50 wt.% , based on the total weight of docosanoic acid and the long chain fatty acid.
  • the long chain fatty acid further comprises hexadecanoic acid in addition to eicosanoic acid or further comprises hexadecanoic acid and octadecanoic acid in addition to eicosanoic acid.
  • the content of hexadecanoic acid is usually less than 30 wt.%, for example less than 25 wt.%, less than 20 wt.%, less than 15 wt.%, less than 10 wt.%, less than 5 wt.%, or less than 2 wt.%, based on the total weight of docosanoic acid and the long chain fatty acid.
  • One aspect of the present invention relates to a process for preparing the triglyceride of present disclosure, which comprises reacting glycerol with docosanoic acid and the long chain fatty acid optionally in the presence of a catalyst.
  • the starting materials for preparing the triglyceride of the present disclosure can be behenic acid and stearic acid.
  • the behenic acid is commercially available and the commercial product usually comprises octadecanoic acid, eicosanoic acid, docosanoic acid and tetracosanoic acid.
  • Stearic acid is also commercially available.
  • the reaction can be carried out both batchwise and continuously.
  • the reaction may proceed in known organic solvents, such as toluene, DMF or ether or else without solvent in the presence of one or more suitable catalysts.
  • useful catalysts or catalyst mixtures are in particular transition metal compounds of Sn, Ti, Zn/Cu, etc., in particular salts, oxides, etc., mineral acids such as HCI, H2SO4 and H3PO4, organic acids such as p-toluenesulfonic acid, methanesulfonic acid and sulfosuccinic acid, and also acidic ion exchangers, alkali metal salts such as sodium or potassium hydroxide, sodium or potassium carbonate, sodium or potassium ethoxide, sodium or potassium methoxide, zeolites or a mixture thereof.
  • a preferred embodiment of the invention provides that the esterification reaction takes place at a temperature of from 120°C to 280°C, preferably at a temperature of from 160°C to 250°C.
  • the reaction time is in the range from 2 to 36 hours, preferably in the range from 8 to 26 hours.
  • the present invention provides in particular that water formed during the reaction is removed, especially continuously removed.
  • the water resulting from the reaction has an unfavorable effect in particular on the position of the equilibrium in the esterification and is therefore preferably removed.
  • the water formed in the reaction may be removed as vapor with the aid of a nitrogen stream.
  • the water formed in the reaction can further be removed with the application of vacuum.
  • the present invention thus provides that water formed during the reaction is preferably removed by means of nitrogen stream and/or vacuum.
  • the inventively preferred reaction conditions for the esterification reaction comprise the following parameters: use of a stirred reactor, removing water during the reaction by nitrogen stream and/or vacuum, carrying out the reaction in an organic solvent, for example toluene, DMF or ether, or without solvent, a reaction time of from 2 to 36 hours, preferably from 8 to 26 hours, and carrying out the esterification in the presence of a catalyst, the amount of catalyst, based on the total amount, being 0.05 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight.
  • the reaction is carried out under a reduced pressure of from 800 to 100 mbar, preferably from 700 to 300 mbar.
  • the esterification reaction is considered complete when the reaction mixture has unreacted hydroxyl groups providing a hydroxyl value (OHV) of no more than about 10 mgKOH/g (e.g. no more than about 8 mgKOH/g, no more than about 6 mgKOH/g) and has unreacted acid groups providing an acid value (AV) of no more than about 5 mgKOH/g (e.g. no more than about 4 mgKOH/g, no more than about 3 mgKOH/g, no more than about 2 mgKOH/g or no more than about 1 mgKOH/g).
  • a salt of Sn is used as the catalyst, the reaction mixture can be quenched by adding water.
  • the product can be purified according to conventional procedures for example by filtering with Galleon earth and Celite as the filtration aid.
  • the triglyceride of the present invention can be pelletized on a rotoformer to form beads.
  • the average particle size of the beads can be in the range from 2 to 10 mm, or 3 to 5 mm.
  • One aspect of the present invention relates to a styling and restyling composition
  • a styling and restyling composition comprising the triglyceride of docosanoic acid I at least one long chain fatty acid of the present invention
  • the triglyceride of docosanoic acid I at least one long chain fatty acid can be comprised in an amount from 5 to 50 wt.%, preferably 8 to 40 wt.%, more preferably 10 to 30 wt.%, for example 10 to 25 wt.%, or 12 to 20 wt.%, in each case relative to the weight of the hair styling and restyling composition.
  • the styling and restyling composition according to the present invention further comprises at least one emollient or fatty substance.
  • the emollient or fatty substance is different from the triglyceride of docosanoic acid I at least one long chain fatty acid according to the present invention.
  • the emollient or fatty substance can include hydrophobic soft waxy or semi-solid materials, hydrophobic oils and optionally hydrophobic waxes.
  • hydrophobic waxes are, e.g., animal, vegetable, mineral and synthetic waxes, microcrystalline waxes, macrocrystalline waxes, solid paraffins, ozocerite, ceresine, montan wax, fischer-tropsch waxes, polyolefin waxes, e.g. polybutene, bees wax, wool wax (lanolin) and its derivative compounds, such as wool wax alcohol, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, Japan wax, hardened fats, fatty acid esters, fatty acid glycerides, polyethylene waxes and silicone waxes each with a solidification point of preferably above about 40°C, more preferably above 55°C.
  • the styling and restyling composition according to the present invention does not comprises any further wax with a solidification point of above about 40°C, more preferably above 55°C in addition to the triglyceride of docosanoic acid I at least one long chain fatty acid of the present invention, especially those listed above as the hydrophobic waxes.
  • Suitable hydrophobic soft waxy or semi-solid materials are for example semi-solid paraffins.
  • the solidification point of these paraffins is usually in a range of from about 25 °C to about 40°C.
  • hydrophobic soft waxy can include VASELINE, Shea butter, myristyl myristate, PEG-20 Glyceryl Stearate
  • Hydrophobic oils are liquid at room temperature and can be volatile or low- or nonvolatile.
  • the low-volatile or non- volatile hydrophobic oils can have a melting point of no more than 25°C and a boiling point more than 250°C, preferably more than 300°C.
  • the volatile oils can have a melting point of no more than 25°C and a boiling point in the range from 25°C to 250°C.
  • hydrophobic oils can be vegetable oils, animal oils, mineral oils (Paraffinum liquidum), silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils, hydrogenated polyolefins, fatty alcohols with at least 8 carbon atoms including branched alcohols such as guerbet alcohols, oils from fatty acids and polyols (especially triglycerides), oils from fatty acids and monohydric Ci-Cso-alcohols (preferred C3-C22-alcohols), oils from carbonic acid and fatty alcohol and mixtures of said hydrophobic oils.
  • Non-limiting hydro- phobic oils are for example cyclic paraffins, paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils, polydecene, mineral oil, isohexadecane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, isoeicosane, isocetylpalmitate, isopropylmyristate, isopropylpalmitate, isopropylstearate, octylisostearate (for example ethylhexyl stearate), octylisostearate, octylcocoate, octyl palmitate (for example ethylhexyl palmitate), octyldodecylmyristate, coco-caprylate, hexyl laurate, coco-caprate, coco-caprate/caprate, dicaprylyl carbonate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, butyloctanol, hex
  • Especially preferred oil compounds are hydrocarbon oil such as mineral oil (e.g. paraffinum liquidum) and branched Cs-Cso alkyl alcohols.
  • Silicone oils include polydimethylsiloxanes, phenylated silicones, polypheny Imethylsiloxanes, phenyltrimethi- cones, poly-Ci-C20-alkylsiloxanes and alkylmethylsiloxanes.
  • Suitable liquid silicone oils are linear or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes, phenylated silicones, polyphenylmethylsiloxanes, phenyltri- methicones, poly(Ci-C2o)-alkylsiloxanes, alkylmethylsiloxanes.
  • volatile oils are volatile hydrocarbons with boiling points up to 250°C or cyclic siloxanes such as cyclooctamethyl tetrasiloxane or cyclodecamethyl pentasiloxane or linear siloxanes such as hexamethyl disiloxane.
  • Preferred emollient or fatty substance are selected from vegetable oil, shea butter, oils from fatty acids and monohydric C3-C22-alcohols, oils from carbonic acid and fatty alcohol, PEG-20 Glyceryl Stearate, hydrocarbon compounds, fatty alcohols, and silicone oils.
  • the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one hydrophobic soft waxy or semi-solid materials selected from Vaseline, shea butter, myristyl myristate and PEG-20 Glyceryl Stearate, preferably Vaseline; at least one low-volatile or non- volatile hydrophobic oils (liquid emollient) selected from oils from fatty acids and monohydric C3-C22-alcohols (especially C6-Ci2-alcohols) (for example ethylhexyl Palmitate, ethylhexyl stearate, Coco-caprylate, hexyl laurate), vegetable oil and shea butter, preferably ethylhexyl Palmitate; and at least volatile hydrophobic oils (light emollient) selected from silicone oil (such as cyclodecamethyl pentasiloxane), coco-caprate, coco-caprate/caprate, dicapryly
  • silicone oil such as cyclodecamethyl pentasi
  • the total amount of the emollient or fatty substance can be in the range from 5 wt.% to 55 wt.%, preferably from 8 to 40 wt.%, more preferably from 10 to 35 wt.%, or from 12 to 30 wt.%, based on the weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the present invention can further comprise an aqueous phase and the aqueous phase comprises at least one mono- or polyhydric alcohol with from 1 to 5 carbon atoms in addition to water.
  • the mono- or polyhydric alcohol with from 1 to 5 carbon atoms can be ethanol, propanol, glycerol or glycols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol and butylene glycol, preferably glycol, more preferably butylene glycol.
  • the amount of water can be in the range from 10 to 75 wt.%, or from 20 to 70 wt.% or from 30 to 65 wt.%, based on the weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the mono- or polyhydric alcohol can be in the range from 0.1 to 10 wt.%, or from 0.5 to 5 wt.%.
  • the hair styling and restyling composition according to the present invention can further comprises at least one emulsifier.
  • the emulsifiers can be nonionic and anionic emulsifiers.
  • Suitable emulsifiers are, for example, nonionic surfactants from at least one of the following groups: o addition products of from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide and/or 0 to 5 mol of propylene oxide onto linear fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, onto fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms and onto alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group; o C12-C18 fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of from 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide onto glycerol; o glycerol mono- and diesters and sorbitan mono- and diesters of saturated and unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and ethylene oxide addition products thereof; o alkyl mono- and oligo
  • mixtures of compounds from two or more of these classes of substance are mixtures of compounds from two or more of these classes of substance; o addition products of from 2 to 15 mol of ethylene oxide onto castor oil and/or hydrogenated castor oil; o partial esters based on linear, branched, unsaturated or saturated C6/22-fatty acids, ricinoleic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid and glycerol, polyglycerol, pentaerythritol, dipentaerythritol, sugar alcohols (e.g. sorbitol), alkyl glucosides (e.g. methyl glucoside, butyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside) and polyglucosides (e.g.
  • cellulose o mono-, di- and trialkyl phosphates, and mono-, di- and/or tri-PEG alkyl phosphates and salts thereof; o wool wax alcohols; o polysiloxane-polyalkyl-polyether copolymers and corresponding derivatives; o mixed esters of pentaerythritol, fatty acids, citric acid and fatty alcohol according to German patent 1165574 and/or mixed esters of fatty acids having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, methylglycose and polyols, preferably glycerol or polyglycerol and o polyalkylene glycols.
  • the addition products of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide onto fatty alcohols, fatty acids, alkylphyenols, glycerol mono- and diesters, and also sorbitan mono- and diesters of fatty acids or onto castor oil are known, commercially available products. These are homolog mixtures whose average degree of alkoxylation corresponds to the ratio of the quantitative amounts of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide and substrate with which the addition reaction is carried out.
  • C12-C18 fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of ethylene oxide onto glycerol are known from German patent 2024051 as refatting agents for cosmetic preparations.
  • C8-C22 alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides their preparation and their use are known from the prior art. Their preparation takes place in particular by reacting glucose or oligosaccharides with primary alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • glycoside ester both monoglycosides in which a cyclic sugar radical is glycosidically bonded to the fatty alcohol, and also oligomeric glycosides with a degree of oligomerization up to preferably about 8 are suitable.
  • the degree of oligomerization is a statistical average value which is based on a homolog distribution customary for such technical-grade products.
  • Anionic surfactants are for example alkyl carboxylic acids, alkyl ethersulfates, alkylsulfates, sulfosuccinates, fatty acid isethienates, phosphoric acid alkyl ester, ethoxylated phosphoric acid alkyl ester such as mono- or diesters of phosphoric acid with C8-C22 fatty alcohols ethoxylated with 2 to 30 mol ethylenoxide, acylaminoacids, said acyl groups having preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • Preferred emulsifiers are nonionic and selected from addition products of from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide and/or 0 to 5 mol of propylene oxide onto linear fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms and alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides (especially glucoside) having 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical.
  • the preferred emulsifier is selected from Ceteareth-12, Ceteareth-20, Ceteareth-25, Behenthe-25, Cetearyl Glucoside and mixture thereof.
  • the amount of the emulsifiers can be in the range from 0.5 to 10 wt.%, preferably from 0.5 to 8 wt.%, or from 1 to 5 wt.%, or from 2 to 5 wt.%, based on the weight of the composition.
  • the composition can further comprise at least one fatty alcohol having 12 to 20 carbon atoms as consistency agent, such as lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol.
  • the amount of the fatty alcohol can be in the range from 0.5 to 10 wt.%, preferably from 0.5 to 8 wt.%, or from 1 to 5 wt.%, based on the weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention further comprises at least one thickener.
  • Suitable thickeners are specified in “Kosmetik und Hygiene von Kopf bis FuB“ [Cosmetics and hygiene from head to foot], Ed. W. Urnbach, 3rd Edition, Wiley-VCH, 2004, pp. 235-236, which is hereby incorporated in its entirety at this point by reference.
  • Thickeners which have a viscosity-increasing effect due to the surfactant micelles increasing in size or due to swelling of the water phase originate from chemically very different classes of substances.
  • Suitable thickeners for the preparations according to the invention are crosslinked polyacrylic acids and derivatives thereof, polysaccharides such as xanthan gum, guar guar, agar agar, alginates or tyloses, cellulose derivatives, e.g.
  • carboxymethylcellulose or hydroxycarboxymethylcellulose also higher molecular weight polyethylene glycol mono- and diesters of fatty acids, fatty alcohols, monoglycerides and fatty acids, polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinylpyrrolidone, glyceryl polyacrylate, poly(meth)acrylamido(Ci-C4)alkylsulphonic acids, acylates copolymer, polyquater- nium compounds (such as polyquaternium-37) and polyacrylate salt (such as sodium polyacrylate).
  • polyvinyl alcohol polyvinylpyrrolidone
  • glyceryl polyacrylate poly(meth)acrylamido(Ci-C4)alkylsulphonic acids
  • acylates copolymer polyquater- nium compounds (such as polyquaternium-37) and polyacrylate salt (such as sodium polyacrylate).
  • Suitable thickeners are also polyacrylates, such as Carbopol® (Noveon), llltrez (Noveon), Luvi- gel® EM (BASF), CapigelTM 98 (Seppic), Synthalene® (Sigma), the Aculyn® grades from Rohm and Haas, such as Aculyn® 22 (copolymer of acrylates and methacrylic acid ethoxylates with stearyl radical (20 EO units)) and Aculyn® 28 (copolymer of acrylates and methacrylic acid ethoxylates with behenyl radical (25 EO units)).
  • Suitable thickeners are also, for example, Aerosil grades (hydrophilic silicas), polyacrylamides, polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinylpyrrolidone, surfactants such as, for example, ethoxylated fatty acid glycerides, esters of fatty acids with polyols, such as, for example, pentaerythritol or trime- thylolpropane, fatty alcohol ethoxylates with a narrowed homolog distribution or alkyl oligoglucosides, and electrolytes, such as sodium chloride and ammonium chloride.
  • Aerosil grades hydrophilic silicas
  • polyacrylamides polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinylpyrrolidone
  • surfactants such as, for example, ethoxylated fatty acid glycerides, esters of fatty acids with polyols, such as, for example, pentaerythritol or trime- thylolpropan
  • the thickener is selected from crosslinked polyacrylic acids and derivatives thereof, polysaccharides, glyceryl polyacrylate, poly(meth)acrylamido(Ci- C ⁇ alkylsulphonic acids, acylates copolymer, polyquaternium compounds, polyacrylate salt and mixture thereof, especially polyacrylate salt.
  • the amount of the thickener can be in the range from 0.05 to 5 wt.%, preferably from 0.1 to 3 wt.%, or from 0.2 to 2 wt.%, based on the weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention further comprises at least one hair conditioning or fixing polymer.
  • the hair conditioning or fixing polymer can be nonionic, anionic, cationic, amphoteric or zwitterionic, preferably it is cationic or nonionic.
  • the hair fixing polymer can be synthetic or natural.
  • the term "natural polymer" also comprises chemically modified polymers of natural origin.
  • Suitable synthetic, nonionic conditioning or hair fixing polymers are for example: homo- or copolymers of at least one monomer selected from vinyl pyrrolidone; vinyl caprolactam; vinyl ester (e.g. vinyl acetate), vinyl alcohol, acrylamide, methacrylamide, alkyl- and dialkyl acrylamide, alkyl- und dialkyl methacrylamide, dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylamide, dialkylaminoalkyl acrylamide, alkylacrylate, alkylmethacrylate, propylene glycol or ethylene glycol, wherein preferred alkyl groups of these monomers are C1-C7 alkyl groups, more preferred C1-C3 alkyl groups. Suitable are e.g.
  • Suitable hair conditioning or fixing polymer are also copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone and vinyl acetate; terpolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl acetate and vinyl propionate; terpolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl caprolactam and dialkylaminoalkyl (meth)acrylate; terpolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl caprolactam and dialkylaminoalkyl (meth)acrylamide; terpolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone, methacrylamide and vinylimidazole; polyacrylamide; polyvinyl alcohol; and hair conditioning or fixing polyethylene glycol/polypropylene glycol copolymers.
  • nonionic vinyl lactam homo- or copolymers Preferred are nonionic vinyl lactam homo- or copolymers.
  • Suitable vinyl lactams are e.g. vinyl caprolactam and vinylpyrrolidone.
  • terpolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone, methacrylamide and vinylimidazole are especially preferred.
  • Suitable synthetic, anionic hair conditioning or fixing polymers can be synthetic or natural homo- or copolymers from monomeric units with acid groups.
  • Suitable monomers are ethylenically unsaturated, radically polymerisable compounds carrying at least one acid group, e.g. styrene sul- fonic acid, 2- acrylamide-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid or carboxyvinyl monomers like acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, maleic anhydride and its monoesters or itaconic acid.
  • Suitable cationic hair conditioning or fixing polymers are polymers with cationic or basic functional groups.
  • Cationic or basic functional groups are in particular primary, secondary or tertiary amine groups or quaternary ammonium groups.
  • the cationic charge density is preferably from 1 to 7 meq/g.
  • the cationic polymers can be homopolymers or copolymers wherein the cationic or basic functional group can be part of the polymeric backbone or can be a pendant group.
  • Monomers with cationic or basic groups can be copolymerised with monomers without cationic or basic group.
  • Suitable cationic monomers are ethylenically unsaturated radically polymerisable compounds with at least one cationic or basic group, e.g. ammonium substituted vinyl monomers such as trialkyl methacryloxy alkylammonium, trialkyl acryloxy alkyl ammonium, dialkyl diallyl ammonium, quaternary vinyl ammonium monomers with cyclic nitrogen containing groups such as pyridinium, imidazolium or quaternary pyrrolidones, e.g. alkylvinyl imidazolium, alkylvinyl pyridinium and dialkylaminoalkyl (meth)acrylate.
  • ammonium substituted vinyl monomers such as trialkyl methacryloxy alkylammonium, trialkyl acryloxy alkyl ammonium, dialkyl diallyl ammonium
  • quaternary vinyl ammonium monomers with cyclic nitrogen containing groups such as pyridinium, imid
  • the alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably lower alkyl groups such as C1-C7 alkyl groups, more preferred C1-C3 alkyl groups.
  • the cationic monomers can be copolymerized with non-cationic comonomers. Non-cationic comonomers are e.g.
  • alkyl groups are C1-C7 alkyl groups, especially C1-C3 alkyl groups.
  • Preferred cationic hair conditioning or fixing polymers are for examples polyquaternium, e.g. methylvinyl imidazolium chloride/vinyl pyrrolidone copolymer (Polyquaternium-16) or quater- nised vinyl pyrrolidone/dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer (Polyquaternium- 11).
  • polyquaternium e.g. methylvinyl imidazolium chloride/vinyl pyrrolidone copolymer (Polyquaternium-16) or quater- nised vinyl pyrrolidone/dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer (Polyquaternium- 11).
  • Cationic polymers on a natural basis are: cationic cellulose derivatives made from hydroxyethylcellulose and diallyl dimethyl ammonium chloride; cationic cellulose derivatives made from hydroxyethylcellulose and trimethyl ammonium substituted epoxide; chitosan and its salts; hydroxyalkyl chitosan and its salts; alkylhydroxyalkyl chitosan and its salts; N-hydroxyalkyl chitosan alkylether.
  • Most preferred hair conditioning or fixing polymers are nonionic or cationic and selected from copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone, especially copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, methacrylamide and vinylimidazole (INCI-name VP/Methacrylamide/Vinyl Imidazole Copolymer, trade name Luvi- set® Clear available from BASF) and quaternised vinyl pyrrolidone/dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer (Polyquaternium- 11).
  • the amount of hair conditioning or fixing polymer can be in the range from 0.1 to 8 wt.%, preferably from 0.1 to 5 wt.%, more preferably from 0.2 to 2 wt.%, based on the weight of the composition.
  • composition of the present disclosure can further include at least one neutralizer, such as alkaline agent.
  • alkaline agents include organic amines, ammonium, alkali metal hydroxides, alkali earth metal hydroxides, alkali metal carbonates, alkali metal phosphates, alkali metal citrates, amino acids (for example, L-lysine, L-arginine, etc.), and mixtures thereof, and preferably those selected from aminomethyl propanol, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, aminomethyl propanediol, triisopropanol amine, dime- thylstearylamine, dimethyl/tallowamine, lysine, ornithine, arginine, monoethanolamine, triethanolamine, calcium hydroxide, calcium bicarbonate, and mixtures thereof.
  • the alkaline agent is a diamine, for example, a diamine such as tetrahydroxyethyl ethylenediamine, tetrahydroxypropyl ethylenediamine, tetrahydroxypropyl ethylenediamine dioleate, or a mixture thereof.
  • particularly preferred alkaline agents are organic amines, especially alkanolamines, for example an alkanolamine selected from monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane, tetrahydroxyethyl ethylenediamine, tetra hydroxy propyl ethylenediamine, and a mixture thereof; most preferred alkaline agent is triethanolamine.
  • the amount of the at least one neutralizer in the hair styling and restyling composition can vary but is typically 0.01 to 10 wt.%, preferably 0.05 to 8 wt.%, more preferably 0.1 to 5 wt.%, and even more preferably 0.2 to 2 wt.%, based on the weight of the composition.
  • the pH can be for example from 6 to 8 or from 6.5 to 7.5, for example 7 to 7.5.
  • compositions of the present invention can further comprise any additive usually used in the field under consideration.
  • dispersants for example, dispersants, antioxidants, essential oils, preserving agents, fragrances, liposoluble polymers that are dispersible in the medium, fillers, cosmetic and dermatological active agents such as, for example, moisturizers, vitamins, essential fatty acids, sunscreens, or mixtures thereof can be added.
  • cosmetic and dermatological active agents such as, for example, moisturizers, vitamins, essential fatty acids, sunscreens, or mixtures thereof can be added.
  • cosmetic and dermatological active agents such as, for example, moisturizers, vitamins, essential fatty acids, sunscreens, or mixtures thereof.
  • suitable additional components can be found in the other references which have been incorporated by reference in this application. Still further examples of such additional ingredients may be found in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook (9th ed. 2002).
  • additives may be present in the composition in a proportion from 0 to 99% (such as from 0.01 to 90%) relative to the total weight of the composition and further such as from 0.1 to 50% or 1 to 25% (if present).
  • composition of the invention should be cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable, i.e., it should contain a non-toxic physiologically acceptable medium and should be able to be applied to the hair of human beings.
  • cosmetically acceptable means a composition of pleasant appearance, odor, feel and/or taste.
  • One aspect of the present invention relates to a process for preparing the hair styling and restyling composition of the present disclosure, which comprises mixing the ingredients of the composition.
  • a fatty phase comprising the triglyceride of docosanoic acid I at least one long chain fatty acid and at least one emulsifier is melted, the aqueous phase is added therein and then the at least one fixing polymer is added therein to obtain the composition.
  • the process comprises following steps: i) melting the fatty phase under heating, wherein the fatty phase comprises the triglyceride of docosanoic acid I at least one long chain fatty acid, at least one emulsifier, at least one low- volatile or non- volatile hydrophobic oils, at least one hydrophobic soft waxy or semi-solid materials and at least one fatty alcohol having 12 to 20 carbon atoms; ii) adding at least one thickener; iii) adding at least one volatile hydrophobic oil; iv) heating and adding the aqueous phase; v) optionally adding at least one neutralizer; and vi) adding at least one conditioning or fixing polymer.
  • the fatty phase comprises the triglyceride of docosanoic acid I at least one long chain fatty acid, at least one emulsifier, at least one low- volatile or non- volatile hydrophobic oils, at least one hydrophobic soft waxy or semi-solid materials and at least one fatty alcohol having 12 to 20 carbon atoms
  • the temperature of the aqueous phase after heating in step iv) can be similar with the tempera- ture of the fatty phase after heating in step i), for example the temperature difference is no more than 15 °C, preferably no more than 10 °C, more preferably no more than 5 °C. All steps i) to vi) can be carried out under stirring. After step vi), the mixture can be further homogenized to achieve a homogenous system.
  • the hair styling and restyling composition of the present disclosure is in the form of emulsion, especially O/W emulsion.
  • the final product was pelletized on a rotoformer and the particle size of the resulted beads was about 4-5 mm.
  • the final product was named as P-5.
  • the triglyceride samples were cleaved by methanolysis and then dissolved with dichloromethane and finally analyzed by GC.
  • the amounts of behenic acid, stearic acid and glycerol were changed so as to obtain other triglycerides, i.e.
  • P-1, P-2, P-3, P-4, CP-2 and CP-6 wherein CP-6 was prepared from behenic acid 2 and stearic acid 1; P-1 was prepared from behenic acid 1 and stearic acid 2; P-2, P-3, P- 4 and CP-2 were prepared from behenic acid 1 and stearic acid 1.
  • Table 2 shows the weight content of docosanoic acid and each long chain fatty acid based on the total weight of docosanoic acid and long chain fatty acids, the weight ratio of C22 fatty ac- id/C20 fatty acid (C22/C20) in each synthesized and commercially available triglyceride.
  • composition 1 Ingredients and contents thereof in composition 1
  • Composition 1 was prepared as follows:
  • Phase A and B were weighted and heated to 80 °C separately.
  • Phase A was stirred at 200 rpm until it’s fully melted.
  • Phase C was added into phase A while stirring until it’s well dispersed.
  • Phase D was added into the mixture of phase A and phase C while stirring.
  • Phase B was added into the mixture of phase A, phase C and phase D at 200 rpm.
  • Phase E and phase F were in turn added into the mixture.
  • Homogenizer was used to homogenize the mixture at 2000 rpm for 5 min to achieve a homogenous system.
  • a panel of 11 trained volunteers (5 Chinese males, 6 Chinese females) tested the parameters of different compositions in order to compare two differently treated strands for their sensory properties. Accordingly, 11 hair strands treated with composition 1 and 11 hair strands treated with comparative composition 1 were prepared, so that each panelist used an individual strand only once.
  • the grading was done on a five-point-scale from minus one to plus one, compared to the comparative composition 1, the test composition 1 can be more or less highly pronounced in its properties (+1/-1), more or less slightly pronounced (+0.5/-0.5) or the same (0).
  • the volunteers gave their associations as a creative statement.
  • the test was performed in the double-blind mode. The samples were coded and applied randomly.
  • the medians for each parameter were calculated, as well as the average absolute deviation from the median as a measure of the variation of the individual values for each parameter.
  • the Wilcoxon test was carried out. In the chart of Figure 1, the position of the symbol indicates the median, and the average absolute deviation from the median is transformed into the weighted deviation from the median and shown in the chart in the form of shifted lines.
  • composition 1 comprising the inventive triglyceride imparts a good holding performance to the treated hair without residue, waxy or sticky sensory comparing with the comparative composition 1 comprising the natural wax (Candelilla wax).
  • composition 3 strands per composition were used. 0.62g composition was applied on the top of each hair strand and distributed evenly by stroking the strand 40 times between the thumb and the index finger while turning the strand a bit after each stroke.
  • each strand was combed 2 times with the fine side of the comb (once for each side).
  • the scattered parts were brought together between 2 fingers without exerting pressure.
  • the hair strand was laid in a channel of the tray made of polyethylene (PE) and spread evenly in the full width of the channel.
  • PE polyethylene
  • a special metal roller it was squeezed and flattened 10 times from the glued part to tip (5 times for each side and flip the strand carefully after squeezing 5 times on one side).
  • the metal roller was rolled over the strand without exerting pressure vertically.
  • the dried strand was placed directly centered on the texture analyzer and the bending stiffness is measured (one measurement per strand).
  • compositions 2 to 12 were prepared according to the same procedure as described for composition 1 except that the triglyceride in composition 1 was replaced with the corresponding triglycerides as shown in table 4.
  • compositions 7 to 11 comprising the triglyceride according to the present invention lead to good bending stiffness and the bending stiffness in compositions 9 to 11 is further improved.

Abstract

A triglyceride of docosanoic acid /at least one long chain fatty acid, wherein the long chain fatty acid has from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, is different from docosanoic acid and comprises eicosa-noic acid and wherein the weight ratio of docosanoic acid to eicosanoic acid is in the range from 7 to 14.

Description

Triglyceride of docosanoic acid / at least one long chain fatty acid and hair styling and restyling composition comprising the same
Technology Field
The present invention relates to a triglyceride of docosanoic acid I at least one long chain fatty acid, wherein the long chain fatty acid has from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, is different from docosanoic acid and comprises eicosanoic acid and wherein the weight ratio of docosanoic acid to eicosanoic acid is in the range from 7 to 14, and relates to a hair styling and restyling composition comprising the same.
Background
Hair wax is one kind of hair styling product containing wax to assist the holding of the hair. Comparing to hair gel, which usually uses polymer as the styling agent, hair wax provides more detailed expressions and accentuating hairstyle. It also allows restyling of hair without application of new product. Currently, one of the main styling and restyling agent of hair wax is from various plant sourcing natural waxes, such as Candelilla wax, beeswax, palm wax, carnauba wax, lanolin etc., especially Candelilla wax. The styling and restyling agent of hair wax can also be petrolatum-based waxes or fixation polymers.
However, Candelilla wax has the disadvantages like high price and limited supply. The plant of candelilla is also facing distinguish. In addition, natural waxes are often sticky and difficult to wash off. While, petrolatum-based waxes usually have undesirable image in personal care.
Therefore, synthetic waxes from the natural starting substances can be the alternatives of natural occurring waxes.
Tribehenin is a bio-based substance and can be prepared from the esterification of glycerol with behenic acid and/or other fatty acid. The commercial products of tribehenin are mainly used in skincare and color cosmetics in the market. While, the inventor of the present invention found that the commercial products of tribehenin are not really suitable for the hair wax application due to the insufficient styling performance. Summary of the Invention
It is an object of the invention to provide a triglyceride of docosanoic acid I at least one long chain fatty acid in a specific weight ratio of docosanoic acid to eicosanoic acid.
Another object of the present invention is to provide a hair styling and restyling composition comprising the triglyceride of docosanoic acid I at least one long chain fatty acid in a specific weight ratio, wherein the composition can show excellent styling performance without sticky sensory
A further objection of the present invention is to provide a process for preparing the triglyceride of docosanoic acid I at least one long chain fatty acid of the present invention.
A further objection of the present invention is to provide a process for preparing the hair styling and restyling composition of the present invention.
It has been surprisingly found that the above objects can be achieved by following embodiments:
1 . A triglyceride of docosanoic acid /at least one long chain fatty acid, wherein the long chain fatty acid has from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, is different from docosanoic acid and comprises eicosanoic acid and wherein the weight ratio of docosanoic acid to eicosanoic acid is in the range from 7 to 14.
2. The triglyceride of docosanoic acid /at least one long chain fatty acid according to item 1 , wherein the weight ratio of docosanoic acid to eicosanoic acid is in the range from 7 to 11 , preferably from 9 to 11.
3. The triglyceride of docosanoic acid /at least one long chain fatty acid according to item 1 or 2, wherein the long chain fatty acid further comprises at least one C14-C30 fatty acid different from eicosanoic acid, wherein the C14-C30 fatty acid is saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated.
4. The triglyceride of docosanoic acid /at least one long chain fatty acid according to any one of items 1 to 3, wherein the C14-C30 fatty acid different from eicosanoic acid has from 14 to 25 carbon atoms, preferably from 16 to 24 carbon atoms.
5. The triglyceride of docosanoic acid /at least one long chain fatty acid according to any one of items 1 to 4, wherein the C14-C30 fatty acid different from eicosanoic acid is selected from do- decanoic acid, tetradecanoic acid, hexadecanoic acid, octadecanoic acid, isooctadecanoic acid, tetracosanoic acid, oleic acid, tall oil fatty acid, linolic acid, linoleic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, docosahexanoic acid and mixture thereof.
6. The triglyceride of docosanoic acid /at least one long chain fatty acid according to any one of items 1 to 5, wherein the C14-C30 fatty acid different from eicosanoic acid is selected from hexadecanoic acid, octadecanoic acid, tetracosanoic acid and mixture thereof, preferably from hexadecanoic acid, octadecanoic acid and mixture thereof.
7. The triglyceride of docosanoic acid /at least one long chain fatty acid according to any one of items 1 to 6, wherein the content of docosanoic acid is in the range from 30 to 80 wt.%, preferably from 40 to 70 wt.%, based on the total weight of docosanoic acid and the long chain fatty acid.
8. The triglyceride of docosanoic acid /at least one long chain fatty acid according to any one of items 1 to 7, wherein the content of eicosanoic acid is in the range from 2 to 15 wt.%, preferably from 4 to 10 wt.%, based on the total weight of docosanoic acid and the long chain fatty acid.
9. The triglyceride of docosanoic acid /at least one long chain fatty acid according to any one of items 1 to 8, wherein the long chain fatty acid further comprises octadecanoic acid in addition to eicosanoic acid.
10. The triglyceride of docosanoic acid /at least one long chain fatty acid according to item 9, wherein the content of octadecanoic acid is in the range from 10 to 60 wt.%, preferably from 20 to 50 wt.%, based on the total weight of docosanoic acid and the long chain fatty acid.
11. A hair styling and restyling composition comprising a triglyceride of docosanoic acid /at least one long chain fatty acid according to any of items 1 to 10.
12. The hair styling and restyling composition according to item 11 , wherein the triglyceride of docosanoic acid /at least one long chain fatty acid is comprised in an amount from 5 to 50 wt.%, preferably 8 to 40 wt.%, more preferably 10 to 30 wt.%, in each case relative to the weight of the hair styling and restyling composition.
13. The hair styling and restyling composition according to item 11 or 12, wherein the composition further comprises an emollient or fatty substance. 14. The hair styling and restyling composition according to any one of items 11 to 13, wherein the composition further comprises an aqueous phase and the aqueous phase comprises at least one mono- or polyhydric alcohol with from 1 to 5 carbon atoms in addition to water.
15. The hair styling and restyling composition according to any one of items 11 to 14, wherein the composition further comprises at least one emulsifier, preferably nonionic emulsifier.
16. The hair styling and restyling composition according to item 15, wherein the emulsifier is selected from addition product of from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide and/or 0 to 5 mol of propylene oxide onto linear fatty alcohol having 8 to 22 carbon atoms and alkyl mono- and oligoglycoside (especially glucoside) having 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical.
17. The hair styling and restyling composition according to item 15 or 16, wherein the emulsifier is comprised in an amount from 0.5 to 10 wt.%, preferably 1 to 5 wt.%, in each case relative to the weight of the hair styling and restyling composition.
18. The hair styling and restyling composition according to any one of items 11 to 17, wherein the composition further comprises at least one hair fixing polymer.
19. A process for preparing the triglyceride of docosanoic acid /at least one long chain fatty acid according to any of items 1 to 10, which comprises reacting glycerol with docosanoic acid and the long chain fatty acid optionally in the presence of a catalyst.
20. A process for preparing the hair styling and restyling composition as defined in any one of items 11 to 18, which comprises mixing the ingredients of the composition.
21. The process according to item 20, wherein a fatty phase comprising the triglyceride of docosanoic acid /a long chain fatty acid and at least one emulsifier is melted under heating, the aqueous phase is added therein and then the at least one fixing polymer is added therein to obtain the composition.
The triglyceride of docosanoic acid/ at least one long chain fatty acid in a specific weight ratio of docosanoic acid to eicosanoic acid according to the present invention is suitable for preparing a hair styling and restyling composition and the composition shows excellent styling performance, more particularly, the composition of the invention imparts a good holding performance to the treated hair without residue, waxy or sticky sensory comparing with the natural wax, especially, the hair treated with the present composition shows higher bending stiffness comparing with composition comprising the conventional tribehenin. Description of the Drawing
Figure 1 shows the results of sensory evaluation in example 3.
Embodiment of the Invention
The undefined article “a”, “an”, “the” means one or more of the species designated by the term following said article.
In the context of the present disclosure, any specific values mentioned for a feature (comprising the specific values mentioned in a range as the end point) can be recombined to form a new range.
One aspect of the present invention is directed to a triglyceride of docosanoic acid I at least one long chain fatty acid, wherein the long chain fatty acid has from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, is different from docosanoic acid and comprises eicosanoic acid and wherein the weight ratio of docosanoic acid to eicosanoic acid is in the range from 7 to 14. In the context of the present disclosure, the term “long chain fatty acid" does not comprise docosanoic acid unless explicitly mentioned otherwise.
In the triglyceride of docosanoic acid I at least one long chain fatty acid, the weight ratio of docosanoic acid to eicosanoic acid can be in the range from 7, or 7.5, or 8, or 8.5, or 9 or 9.5, or 10 to 11 , or 11.5, or 12, or 12.5, or 13, or 13. 5, or 14, preferably in the range from 7 to 11 , more preferably from 9 to 11. In the context of the present disclosure, the weight ratio of docosanoic acid to eicosanoic acid means the weight ratio of the moiety derived from docosanoic acid to the moiety derived from eicosanoic acid in the triglyceride of docosanoic acid I at least one long chain fatty acid.
In one embodiment, the long chain fatty acid can further comprise at least one C14-C30 fatty acid different from eicosanoic acid. The C14-C30 fatty acid can be saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated. The C14-C30 fatty acid can have from 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18 to 20, 21 , 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 14 to 25 carbon atoms, more preferably from 16 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 16, 17, 18, 19, 21 , 23 and 24 carbon atoms.
The C14-C30 fatty acid can be selected from dodecanoic acid, tetradecanoic acid, hexadecanoic acid, octadecanoic acid, isooctadecanoic acid, tetracosanoic acid, linolic acid, linoleic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, docosahexanoic acid and mixture thereof. In a preferred embodiment, the C14-C30 fatty acid is selected from hexadecanoic acid, octadecanoic acid, tetracosanoic acid and mixture thereof, preferably from hexadecanoic acid, octadecanoic acid, and mixture thereof.
The content of C14-C30 fatty acid different from eicosanoic acid can be in the range from 5 to 60 wt.%, for example 10 wt.%, 20 wt.%, 30 wt.%, 40 wt.%, 50 wt.%, 55 wt.%, preferably from 8 to 55 wt.%, based on the total weight of docosanoic acid and the long chain fatty acid.
According to the present invention, the content of docosanoic acid can be in the range from 35 to 80 wt.%, for example 40 wt.%, 45 wt.%, 50 wt.%, 55 wt.%, 60 wt.%, 65 wt.%, 70 wt.%, 75 wt.%, preferably from 40 to 70 wt%, based on the total weight of docosanoic acid and the long chain fatty acid. As mentioned above, any specific values mentioned here for the content of docosanoic acid can form a new range, for example from 40 to 80 wt.% or 50 to 70 wt.% etc. In the triglyceride of docosanoic acid I at least one long chain fatty acid of the present invention, the content of the docosanoic acid is the highest among the docosanoic acid and the long chain fatty acid, i.e. the content of docosanoic acid is higher than the content of each long chain fatty acid.
In the context of the present disclosure, the content of docosanoic acid means the content of the moiety derived from docosanoic acid in the triglyceride of docosanoic acid I at least one long chain fatty acid of the present invention, which similarly applies to the content of any fatty acid mentioned in the present disclosure.
In one embodiment, the content of eicosanoic acid can be in the range from 2 to 15 wt.%, for example 3 wt.%, 4 wt.%, 5 wt.%, 6 wt.%, 7 wt.%, 8 wt.%, 9 wt.%, 10 wt.%, 11 wt.%, 12 wt.%, 13 wt.%, 14 wt.%, preferably from 4 to 10 wt.%, based on the total weight of docosanoic acid and the long chain fatty acid.
In one preferred embodiment, the long chain fatty acid further comprises octadecanoic acid in addition to eicosanoic acid, i.e. the above mentioned C14-C30 fatty acid is octadecanoic acid. The content of octadecanoic acid can be in the range from 10 to 60 wt.%, for example 15 wt.%, 20 wt.%, 25 wt.%, 30 wt.%, 35 wt.%, 40 wt.%, 45 wt.%, 50 wt.%, 55 wt.%, preferably from 20 to 50 wt.% , based on the total weight of docosanoic acid and the long chain fatty acid.
In one embodement, the long chain fatty acid further comprises hexadecanoic acid in addition to eicosanoic acid or further comprises hexadecanoic acid and octadecanoic acid in addition to eicosanoic acid. The content of hexadecanoic acid is usually less than 30 wt.%, for example less than 25 wt.%, less than 20 wt.%, less than 15 wt.%, less than 10 wt.%, less than 5 wt.%, or less than 2 wt.%, based on the total weight of docosanoic acid and the long chain fatty acid. One aspect of the present invention relates to a process for preparing the triglyceride of present disclosure, which comprises reacting glycerol with docosanoic acid and the long chain fatty acid optionally in the presence of a catalyst.
The starting materials for preparing the triglyceride of the present disclosure can be behenic acid and stearic acid. The behenic acid is commercially available and the commercial product usually comprises octadecanoic acid, eicosanoic acid, docosanoic acid and tetracosanoic acid. Stearic acid is also commercially available.
The reaction can be carried out both batchwise and continuously. The reaction may proceed in known organic solvents, such as toluene, DMF or ether or else without solvent in the presence of one or more suitable catalysts.
According to the invention, useful catalysts or catalyst mixtures are in particular transition metal compounds of Sn, Ti, Zn/Cu, etc., in particular salts, oxides, etc., mineral acids such as HCI, H2SO4 and H3PO4, organic acids such as p-toluenesulfonic acid, methanesulfonic acid and sulfosuccinic acid, and also acidic ion exchangers, alkali metal salts such as sodium or potassium hydroxide, sodium or potassium carbonate, sodium or potassium ethoxide, sodium or potassium methoxide, zeolites or a mixture thereof. According to the invention, preference is given to salt of Sn, in particular to stannous oxalate.
A preferred embodiment of the invention provides that the esterification reaction takes place at a temperature of from 120°C to 280°C, preferably at a temperature of from 160°C to 250°C. Usually, the reaction time is in the range from 2 to 36 hours, preferably in the range from 8 to 26 hours.
The present invention provides in particular that water formed during the reaction is removed, especially continuously removed. The water resulting from the reaction has an unfavorable effect in particular on the position of the equilibrium in the esterification and is therefore preferably removed. For example, the water formed in the reaction may be removed as vapor with the aid of a nitrogen stream. The water formed in the reaction can further be removed with the application of vacuum. The present invention thus provides that water formed during the reaction is preferably removed by means of nitrogen stream and/or vacuum.
In summary, the inventively preferred reaction conditions for the esterification reaction comprise the following parameters: use of a stirred reactor, removing water during the reaction by nitrogen stream and/or vacuum, carrying out the reaction in an organic solvent, for example toluene, DMF or ether, or without solvent, a reaction time of from 2 to 36 hours, preferably from 8 to 26 hours, and carrying out the esterification in the presence of a catalyst, the amount of catalyst, based on the total amount, being 0.05 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight. According to the invention, the reaction is carried out under a reduced pressure of from 800 to 100 mbar, preferably from 700 to 300 mbar.
In embodiments of the invention, the esterification reaction is considered complete when the reaction mixture has unreacted hydroxyl groups providing a hydroxyl value (OHV) of no more than about 10 mgKOH/g (e.g. no more than about 8 mgKOH/g, no more than about 6 mgKOH/g) and has unreacted acid groups providing an acid value (AV) of no more than about 5 mgKOH/g (e.g. no more than about 4 mgKOH/g, no more than about 3 mgKOH/g, no more than about 2 mgKOH/g or no more than about 1 mgKOH/g). If a salt of Sn is used as the catalyst, the reaction mixture can be quenched by adding water. The product can be purified according to conventional procedures for example by filtering with Galleon earth and Celite as the filtration aid.
To facilitate the application of the triglyceride, the triglyceride of the present invention can be pelletized on a rotoformer to form beads. The average particle size of the beads can be in the range from 2 to 10 mm, or 3 to 5 mm.
One aspect of the present invention relates to a styling and restyling composition comprising the triglyceride of docosanoic acid I at least one long chain fatty acid of the present invention, the triglyceride of docosanoic acid I at least one long chain fatty acid can be comprised in an amount from 5 to 50 wt.%, preferably 8 to 40 wt.%, more preferably 10 to 30 wt.%, for example 10 to 25 wt.%, or 12 to 20 wt.%, in each case relative to the weight of the hair styling and restyling composition.
In one embodiment, the styling and restyling composition according to the present invention further comprises at least one emollient or fatty substance. The emollient or fatty substance is different from the triglyceride of docosanoic acid I at least one long chain fatty acid according to the present invention.
The emollient or fatty substance can include hydrophobic soft waxy or semi-solid materials, hydrophobic oils and optionally hydrophobic waxes.
Examples of hydrophobic waxes are, e.g., animal, vegetable, mineral and synthetic waxes, microcrystalline waxes, macrocrystalline waxes, solid paraffins, ozocerite, ceresine, montan wax, fischer-tropsch waxes, polyolefin waxes, e.g. polybutene, bees wax, wool wax (lanolin) and its derivative compounds, such as wool wax alcohol, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, Japan wax, hardened fats, fatty acid esters, fatty acid glycerides, polyethylene waxes and silicone waxes each with a solidification point of preferably above about 40°C, more preferably above 55°C.
In a preferred embodiment, the styling and restyling composition according to the present invention does not comprises any further wax with a solidification point of above about 40°C, more preferably above 55°C in addition to the triglyceride of docosanoic acid I at least one long chain fatty acid of the present invention, especially those listed above as the hydrophobic waxes.
Suitable hydrophobic soft waxy or semi-solid materials are for example semi-solid paraffins. The solidification point of these paraffins is usually in a range of from about 25 °C to about 40°C. Examples of hydrophobic soft waxy can include VASELINE, Shea butter, myristyl myristate, PEG-20 Glyceryl Stearate
Hydrophobic oils are liquid at room temperature and can be volatile or low- or nonvolatile. The low-volatile or non- volatile hydrophobic oils can have a melting point of no more than 25°C and a boiling point more than 250°C, preferably more than 300°C. The volatile oils can have a melting point of no more than 25°C and a boiling point in the range from 25°C to 250°C. These hydrophobic oils can be vegetable oils, animal oils, mineral oils (Paraffinum liquidum), silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils, hydrogenated polyolefins, fatty alcohols with at least 8 carbon atoms including branched alcohols such as guerbet alcohols, oils from fatty acids and polyols (especially triglycerides), oils from fatty acids and monohydric Ci-Cso-alcohols (preferred C3-C22-alcohols), oils from carbonic acid and fatty alcohol and mixtures of said hydrophobic oils. Non-limiting hydro- phobic oils are for example cyclic paraffins, paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils, polydecene, mineral oil, isohexadecane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, isoeicosane, isocetylpalmitate, isopropylmyristate, isopropylpalmitate, isopropylstearate, octylisostearate (for example ethylhexyl stearate), octylisostearate, octylcocoate, octyl palmitate (for example ethylhexyl palmitate), octyldodecylmyristate, coco-caprylate, hexyl laurate, coco-caprate, coco-caprate/caprate, dicaprylyl carbonate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, butyloctanol, hexyloctanol, butyldecanol, hexyldecanol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, cetearyl alcohol, stearylheptanoate, isohexyldecanoate, isodecyloctanoate, dibutyladipate, dicaprylylether, Ci2-Ci5-alkylbenzoate, hydrogenated polyisobutene, squalane, squalene, native oils such as jojoba oil, olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rape seed oil, sweet almond oil, palm-oil, coconut oil, castor oil, hydrogenated castor oil, wheat germ oil, grape seed oil, safflower oil, evening primrose oil, macedemia nut oil, corn oil, avocado oil, lanolin oils and similar oils. Especially preferred oil compounds are hydrocarbon oil such as mineral oil (e.g. paraffinum liquidum) and branched Cs-Cso alkyl alcohols. Silicone oils include polydimethylsiloxanes, phenylated silicones, polypheny Imethylsiloxanes, phenyltrimethi- cones, poly-Ci-C20-alkylsiloxanes and alkylmethylsiloxanes. Suitable liquid silicone oils are linear or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes, phenylated silicones, polyphenylmethylsiloxanes, phenyltri- methicones, poly(Ci-C2o)-alkylsiloxanes, alkylmethylsiloxanes. Specific examples of volatile oils are volatile hydrocarbons with boiling points up to 250°C or cyclic siloxanes such as cyclooctamethyl tetrasiloxane or cyclodecamethyl pentasiloxane or linear siloxanes such as hexamethyl disiloxane.
Preferred emollient or fatty substance are selected from vegetable oil, shea butter, oils from fatty acids and monohydric C3-C22-alcohols, oils from carbonic acid and fatty alcohol, PEG-20 Glyceryl Stearate, hydrocarbon compounds, fatty alcohols, and silicone oils.
In a preferred embodiment, as the emollient or fatty substance, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one hydrophobic soft waxy or semi-solid materials selected from Vaseline, shea butter, myristyl myristate and PEG-20 Glyceryl Stearate, preferably Vaseline; at least one low-volatile or non- volatile hydrophobic oils (liquid emollient) selected from oils from fatty acids and monohydric C3-C22-alcohols (especially C6-Ci2-alcohols) (for example ethylhexyl Palmitate, ethylhexyl stearate, Coco-caprylate, hexyl laurate), vegetable oil and shea butter, preferably ethylhexyl Palmitate; and at least volatile hydrophobic oils (light emollient) selected from silicone oil (such as cyclodecamethyl pentasiloxane), coco-caprate, coco-caprate/caprate, dicaprylyl carbonate, undecane and tridecane, preferably cyclodecamethyl pentasiloxane.
The total amount of the emollient or fatty substance can be in the range from 5 wt.% to 55 wt.%, preferably from 8 to 40 wt.%, more preferably from 10 to 35 wt.%, or from 12 to 30 wt.%, based on the weight of the composition.
In one embodiment, the composition according to the present invention can further comprise an aqueous phase and the aqueous phase comprises at least one mono- or polyhydric alcohol with from 1 to 5 carbon atoms in addition to water. The mono- or polyhydric alcohol with from 1 to 5 carbon atoms can be ethanol, propanol, glycerol or glycols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol and butylene glycol, preferably glycol, more preferably butylene glycol.
The amount of water can be in the range from 10 to 75 wt.%, or from 20 to 70 wt.% or from 30 to 65 wt.%, based on the weight of the composition. The amount of the mono- or polyhydric alcohol can be in the range from 0.1 to 10 wt.%, or from 0.5 to 5 wt.%.
In one embodiment, the hair styling and restyling composition according to the present invention can further comprises at least one emulsifier. The emulsifiers can be nonionic and anionic emulsifiers. Suitable emulsifiers are, for example, nonionic surfactants from at least one of the following groups: o addition products of from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide and/or 0 to 5 mol of propylene oxide onto linear fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, onto fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms and onto alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group; o C12-C18 fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of from 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide onto glycerol; o glycerol mono- and diesters and sorbitan mono- and diesters of saturated and unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and ethylene oxide addition products thereof; o alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides (preferably glucoside) having 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical and ethoxylated analogues thereof; o addition products of from 15 to 60 mol of ethylene oxide onto castor oil and/or hydrogenated castor oil; o polyol and in particular polyglycerol esters, such as, for example, polyglycerol polyricinoleate, polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate or polyglycerol dimerate. Likewise suitable are mixtures of compounds from two or more of these classes of substance; o addition products of from 2 to 15 mol of ethylene oxide onto castor oil and/or hydrogenated castor oil; o partial esters based on linear, branched, unsaturated or saturated C6/22-fatty acids, ricinoleic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid and glycerol, polyglycerol, pentaerythritol, dipentaerythritol, sugar alcohols (e.g. sorbitol), alkyl glucosides (e.g. methyl glucoside, butyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside) and polyglucosides (e.g. cellulose); o mono-, di- and trialkyl phosphates, and mono-, di- and/or tri-PEG alkyl phosphates and salts thereof; o wool wax alcohols; o polysiloxane-polyalkyl-polyether copolymers and corresponding derivatives; o mixed esters of pentaerythritol, fatty acids, citric acid and fatty alcohol according to German patent 1165574 and/or mixed esters of fatty acids having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, methylglycose and polyols, preferably glycerol or polyglycerol and o polyalkylene glycols.
The addition products of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide onto fatty alcohols, fatty acids, alkylphyenols, glycerol mono- and diesters, and also sorbitan mono- and diesters of fatty acids or onto castor oil are known, commercially available products. These are homolog mixtures whose average degree of alkoxylation corresponds to the ratio of the quantitative amounts of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide and substrate with which the addition reaction is carried out. C12-C18 fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of ethylene oxide onto glycerol are known from German patent 2024051 as refatting agents for cosmetic preparations. C8-C22 alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides, their preparation and their use are known from the prior art. Their preparation takes place in particular by reacting glucose or oligosaccharides with primary alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms. With regard to the glycoside ester, both monoglycosides in which a cyclic sugar radical is glycosidically bonded to the fatty alcohol, and also oligomeric glycosides with a degree of oligomerization up to preferably about 8 are suitable. The degree of oligomerization here is a statistical average value which is based on a homolog distribution customary for such technical-grade products.
Anionic surfactants are for example alkyl carboxylic acids, alkyl ethersulfates, alkylsulfates, sulfosuccinates, fatty acid isethienates, phosphoric acid alkyl ester, ethoxylated phosphoric acid alkyl ester such as mono- or diesters of phosphoric acid with C8-C22 fatty alcohols ethoxylated with 2 to 30 mol ethylenoxide, acylaminoacids, said acyl groups having preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
Preferred emulsifiers are nonionic and selected from addition products of from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide and/or 0 to 5 mol of propylene oxide onto linear fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms and alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides (especially glucoside) having 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical. The preferred emulsifier is selected from Ceteareth-12, Ceteareth-20, Ceteareth-25, Behenthe-25, Cetearyl Glucoside and mixture thereof.
The amount of the emulsifiers can be in the range from 0.5 to 10 wt.%, preferably from 0.5 to 8 wt.%, or from 1 to 5 wt.%, or from 2 to 5 wt.%, based on the weight of the composition. In one embodiment of the present invention, the composition can further comprise at least one fatty alcohol having 12 to 20 carbon atoms as consistency agent, such as lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol.
The amount of the fatty alcohol can be in the range from 0.5 to 10 wt.%, preferably from 0.5 to 8 wt.%, or from 1 to 5 wt.%, based on the weight of the composition.
In one embodiment of the present invention, the composition according to the present invention further comprises at least one thickener.
Suitable thickeners are specified in “Kosmetik und Hygiene von Kopf bis FuB“ [Cosmetics and hygiene from head to foot], Ed. W. Urnbach, 3rd Edition, Wiley-VCH, 2004, pp. 235-236, which is hereby incorporated in its entirety at this point by reference.
Thickeners which have a viscosity-increasing effect due to the surfactant micelles increasing in size or due to swelling of the water phase originate from chemically very different classes of substances.
Suitable thickeners for the preparations according to the invention are crosslinked polyacrylic acids and derivatives thereof, polysaccharides such as xanthan gum, guar guar, agar agar, alginates or tyloses, cellulose derivatives, e.g. carboxymethylcellulose or hydroxycarboxymethylcellulose, also higher molecular weight polyethylene glycol mono- and diesters of fatty acids, fatty alcohols, monoglycerides and fatty acids, polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinylpyrrolidone, glyceryl polyacrylate, poly(meth)acrylamido(Ci-C4)alkylsulphonic acids, acylates copolymer, polyquater- nium compounds (such as polyquaternium-37) and polyacrylate salt (such as sodium polyacrylate).
Suitable thickeners are also polyacrylates, such as Carbopol® (Noveon), llltrez (Noveon), Luvi- gel® EM (BASF), Capigel™ 98 (Seppic), Synthalene® (Sigma), the Aculyn® grades from Rohm and Haas, such as Aculyn® 22 (copolymer of acrylates and methacrylic acid ethoxylates with stearyl radical (20 EO units)) and Aculyn® 28 (copolymer of acrylates and methacrylic acid ethoxylates with behenyl radical (25 EO units)).
Suitable thickeners are also, for example, Aerosil grades (hydrophilic silicas), polyacrylamides, polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinylpyrrolidone, surfactants such as, for example, ethoxylated fatty acid glycerides, esters of fatty acids with polyols, such as, for example, pentaerythritol or trime- thylolpropane, fatty alcohol ethoxylates with a narrowed homolog distribution or alkyl oligoglucosides, and electrolytes, such as sodium chloride and ammonium chloride.
In a preferred embodiment, the thickener is selected from crosslinked polyacrylic acids and derivatives thereof, polysaccharides, glyceryl polyacrylate, poly(meth)acrylamido(Ci- C^alkylsulphonic acids, acylates copolymer, polyquaternium compounds, polyacrylate salt and mixture thereof, especially polyacrylate salt.
The amount of the thickener can be in the range from 0.05 to 5 wt.%, preferably from 0.1 to 3 wt.%, or from 0.2 to 2 wt.%, based on the weight of the composition.
In one embodiment of the present invention, the composition according to the present invention further comprises at least one hair conditioning or fixing polymer.
The hair conditioning or fixing polymer can be nonionic, anionic, cationic, amphoteric or zwitterionic, preferably it is cationic or nonionic. The hair fixing polymer can be synthetic or natural. The term "natural polymer" also comprises chemically modified polymers of natural origin.
Suitable synthetic, nonionic conditioning or hair fixing polymers are for example: homo- or copolymers of at least one monomer selected from vinyl pyrrolidone; vinyl caprolactam; vinyl ester (e.g. vinyl acetate), vinyl alcohol, acrylamide, methacrylamide, alkyl- and dialkyl acrylamide, alkyl- und dialkyl methacrylamide, dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylamide, dialkylaminoalkyl acrylamide, alkylacrylate, alkylmethacrylate, propylene glycol or ethylene glycol, wherein preferred alkyl groups of these monomers are C1-C7 alkyl groups, more preferred C1-C3 alkyl groups. Suitable are e.g. homopolymers of vinyl caprolactam, homopolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone, homopolymers of N- vinyl formamide. Suitable hair conditioning or fixing polymer are also copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone and vinyl acetate; terpolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl acetate and vinyl propionate; terpolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl caprolactam and dialkylaminoalkyl (meth)acrylate; terpolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl caprolactam and dialkylaminoalkyl (meth)acrylamide; terpolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone, methacrylamide and vinylimidazole; polyacrylamide; polyvinyl alcohol; and hair conditioning or fixing polyethylene glycol/polypropylene glycol copolymers. Preferred are nonionic vinyl lactam homo- or copolymers. Suitable vinyl lactams are e.g. vinyl caprolactam and vinylpyrrolidone. Especially preferred are terpolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone, methacrylamide and vinylimidazole.
Suitable synthetic, anionic hair conditioning or fixing polymers can be synthetic or natural homo- or copolymers from monomeric units with acid groups. Suitable monomers are ethylenically unsaturated, radically polymerisable compounds carrying at least one acid group, e.g. styrene sul- fonic acid, 2- acrylamide-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid or carboxyvinyl monomers like acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, maleic anhydride and its monoesters or itaconic acid.
Suitable cationic hair conditioning or fixing polymers are polymers with cationic or basic functional groups. Cationic or basic functional groups are in particular primary, secondary or tertiary amine groups or quaternary ammonium groups. The cationic charge density is preferably from 1 to 7 meq/g. The cationic polymers can be homopolymers or copolymers wherein the cationic or basic functional group can be part of the polymeric backbone or can be a pendant group. Monomers with cationic or basic groups can be copolymerised with monomers without cationic or basic group.
Suitable cationic monomers are ethylenically unsaturated radically polymerisable compounds with at least one cationic or basic group, e.g. ammonium substituted vinyl monomers such as trialkyl methacryloxy alkylammonium, trialkyl acryloxy alkyl ammonium, dialkyl diallyl ammonium, quaternary vinyl ammonium monomers with cyclic nitrogen containing groups such as pyridinium, imidazolium or quaternary pyrrolidones, e.g. alkylvinyl imidazolium, alkylvinyl pyridinium and dialkylaminoalkyl (meth)acrylate. The alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably lower alkyl groups such as C1-C7 alkyl groups, more preferred C1-C3 alkyl groups. The cationic monomers can be copolymerized with non-cationic comonomers. Non-cationic comonomers are e.g. acrylamide, methacrylamide, alkyl- and dialkyl acrylamide, alkyl- and dialkyl methacrylamide, alkylacrylate, alkylmethacrylate, vinyl caprolactone, vinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl ester such as vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, propylene glycol or ethylene glycol, wherein preferred alkyl groups are C1-C7 alkyl groups, especially C1-C3 alkyl groups.
Preferred cationic hair conditioning or fixing polymers are for examples polyquaternium, e.g. methylvinyl imidazolium chloride/vinyl pyrrolidone copolymer (Polyquaternium-16) or quater- nised vinyl pyrrolidone/dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer (Polyquaternium- 11).
Cationic polymers on a natural basis are: cationic cellulose derivatives made from hydroxyethylcellulose and diallyl dimethyl ammonium chloride; cationic cellulose derivatives made from hydroxyethylcellulose and trimethyl ammonium substituted epoxide; chitosan and its salts; hydroxyalkyl chitosan and its salts; alkylhydroxyalkyl chitosan and its salts; N-hydroxyalkyl chitosan alkylether.
Most preferred hair conditioning or fixing polymers are nonionic or cationic and selected from copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone, especially copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, methacrylamide and vinylimidazole (INCI-name VP/Methacrylamide/Vinyl Imidazole Copolymer, trade name Luvi- set® Clear available from BASF) and quaternised vinyl pyrrolidone/dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer (Polyquaternium- 11).
The amount of hair conditioning or fixing polymer can be in the range from 0.1 to 8 wt.%, preferably from 0.1 to 5 wt.%, more preferably from 0.2 to 2 wt.%, based on the weight of the composition.
The composition of the present disclosure can further include at least one neutralizer, such as alkaline agent. Non-limiting examples of useful alkaline agents include organic amines, ammonium, alkali metal hydroxides, alkali earth metal hydroxides, alkali metal carbonates, alkali metal phosphates, alkali metal citrates, amino acids (for example, L-lysine, L-arginine, etc.), and mixtures thereof, and preferably those selected from aminomethyl propanol, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, aminomethyl propanediol, triisopropanol amine, dime- thylstearylamine, dimethyl/tallowamine, lysine, ornithine, arginine, monoethanolamine, triethanolamine, calcium hydroxide, calcium bicarbonate, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, the alkaline agent is a diamine, for example, a diamine such as tetrahydroxyethyl ethylenediamine, tetrahydroxypropyl ethylenediamine, tetrahydroxypropyl ethylenediamine dioleate, or a mixture thereof.
In one embodiment, particularly preferred alkaline agents are organic amines, especially alkanolamines, for example an alkanolamine selected from monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane, tetrahydroxyethyl ethylenediamine, tetra hydroxy propyl ethylenediamine, and a mixture thereof; most preferred alkaline agent is triethanolamine.
The amount of the at least one neutralizer in the hair styling and restyling composition can vary but is typically 0.01 to 10 wt.%, preferably 0.05 to 8 wt.%, more preferably 0.1 to 5 wt.%, and even more preferably 0.2 to 2 wt.%, based on the weight of the composition. The pH can be for example from 6 to 8 or from 6.5 to 7.5, for example 7 to 7.5.
The compositions of the present invention can further comprise any additive usually used in the field under consideration. For example, dispersants, antioxidants, essential oils, preserving agents, fragrances, liposoluble polymers that are dispersible in the medium, fillers, cosmetic and dermatological active agents such as, for example, moisturizers, vitamins, essential fatty acids, sunscreens, or mixtures thereof can be added. A non-exhaustive listing of such ingredients can be found in U.S. patent application publication no. 2004/0170586, the entire contents of which is hereby incorporated by reference. Further examples of suitable additional components can be found in the other references which have been incorporated by reference in this application. Still further examples of such additional ingredients may be found in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook (9th ed. 2002).
A person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional additional additives and/or the amount thereof such that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition.
These substances may be selected variously by the person skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition which has the desired properties.
These additives may be present in the composition in a proportion from 0 to 99% (such as from 0.01 to 90%) relative to the total weight of the composition and further such as from 0.1 to 50% or 1 to 25% (if present).
Needless to say, the composition of the invention should be cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable, i.e., it should contain a non-toxic physiologically acceptable medium and should be able to be applied to the hair of human beings. For the purposes of the invention, the expression "cosmetically acceptable" means a composition of pleasant appearance, odor, feel and/or taste.
One aspect of the present invention relates to a process for preparing the hair styling and restyling composition of the present disclosure, which comprises mixing the ingredients of the composition. For example, a fatty phase comprising the triglyceride of docosanoic acid I at least one long chain fatty acid and at least one emulsifier is melted, the aqueous phase is added therein and then the at least one fixing polymer is added therein to obtain the composition.
In a preferred embodiment, the process comprises following steps: i) melting the fatty phase under heating, wherein the fatty phase comprises the triglyceride of docosanoic acid I at least one long chain fatty acid, at least one emulsifier, at least one low- volatile or non- volatile hydrophobic oils, at least one hydrophobic soft waxy or semi-solid materials and at least one fatty alcohol having 12 to 20 carbon atoms; ii) adding at least one thickener; iii) adding at least one volatile hydrophobic oil; iv) heating and adding the aqueous phase; v) optionally adding at least one neutralizer; and vi) adding at least one conditioning or fixing polymer.
The temperature of the aqueous phase after heating in step iv) can be similar with the tempera- ture of the fatty phase after heating in step i), for example the temperature difference is no more than 15 °C, preferably no more than 10 °C, more preferably no more than 5 °C. All steps i) to vi) can be carried out under stirring. After step vi), the mixture can be further homogenized to achieve a homogenous system.
In a preferred embodiment, the hair styling and restyling composition of the present disclosure is in the form of emulsion, especially O/W emulsion.
Examples
Table 1: Materials
Figure imgf000020_0001
Example 1 - Preparing triglyceride of docosanoic acid / long chain fatty acid
590 g behenic acid 1, 410 g stearic acid 1, 100 g glycerol and 0.5 g stannous oxalate were fed into reactor. The temperature of the reactor was heated to 100 °C under nitrogen flow and stirring. Then, the temperature of the reactor was gradually increased to 220°C over 2.5 hours and was hold for 3 hours. A vacuum of 600 mbar was applied and kept for 10 hours until the AV was no more than 1 mg KOH/g and OHV was no more than 6 mg KOH/g. The reaction mixture was quenched with 12 g of water. Then, the reaction mixture was filtered with 1.5 g Galleon earth and 1.5 g Celite as the filtration aid at 80 °C. The product yield is about 99%. The final product was pelletized on a rotoformer and the particle size of the resulted beads was about 4-5 mm. The final product was named as P-5. To test the ratio of the moiety of docosanoic acid to the moiety of eicosanoic acid in the triglyceride, the triglyceride samples were cleaved by methanolysis and then dissolved with dichloromethane and finally analyzed by GC. The amounts of behenic acid, stearic acid and glycerol were changed so as to obtain other triglycerides, i.e. P-1, P-2, P-3, P-4, CP-2 and CP-6, wherein CP-6 was prepared from behenic acid 2 and stearic acid 1; P-1 was prepared from behenic acid 1 and stearic acid 2; P-2, P-3, P- 4 and CP-2 were prepared from behenic acid 1 and stearic acid 1. Table 2 shows the weight content of docosanoic acid and each long chain fatty acid based on the total weight of docosanoic acid and long chain fatty acids, the weight ratio of C22 fatty ac- id/C20 fatty acid (C22/C20) in each synthesized and commercially available triglyceride.
Table 2:
Figure imgf000021_0001
Example 2 - preparing the composition 1
The ingredients and contents thereof in the composition 1 are shown in the following table 3:
Table 3: Ingredients and contents thereof in composition 1
Figure imgf000022_0001
Composition 1 was prepared as follows:
1. Phase A and B were weighted and heated to 80 °C separately.
2. Phase A was stirred at 200 rpm until it’s fully melted.
3. Phase C was added into phase A while stirring until it’s well dispersed.
4. Phase D was added into the mixture of phase A and phase C while stirring.
5. Phase B was added into the mixture of phase A, phase C and phase D at 200 rpm.
6. Phase E and phase F were in turn added into the mixture.
7. Homogenizer was used to homogenize the mixture at 2000 rpm for 5 min to achieve a homogenous system.
8. The well mixed sample was transferred to the container at around 45 °C.
9. It was left at room temperature overnight to form the final composition as a O/W emulsion. The pH of the final composition was 7.3.
Comparative example 2 - Preparing comparative composition 1
All procedures in example 2 were repeated except that 15 wt.% triglyceride of docosanoic acid and long chain fatty acid in composition 1 was replaced with 15 wt.% Candelilla wax to obtain the comparative composition 1. Example 3 - Sensory Evaluation
Test procedure:
Each formulation was tested on cleansed and nature hair strands only. All hair strands were Chinese ethnicity from IHIP (International Hair Importers & Products, New York), 15cm long and 2g weight. The sensory assessment was carried out in a climate-controlled room (approximate 23°C, relative humidity approximate 50%).
A panel of 11 trained volunteers (5 Chinese males, 6 Chinese females) tested the parameters of different compositions in order to compare two differently treated strands for their sensory properties. Accordingly, 11 hair strands treated with composition 1 and 11 hair strands treated with comparative composition 1 were prepared, so that each panelist used an individual strand only once.
The following parameters were evaluated:
More or less holding, more or less hardness, more or less residue, more or less stickiness on hair, more or less stickiness on hand, more or less waxy feeling on hair, more or less flaking as well as general acceptance (likewise more or less).
The grading was done on a five-point-scale from minus one to plus one, compared to the comparative composition 1, the test composition 1 can be more or less highly pronounced in its properties (+1/-1), more or less slightly pronounced (+0.5/-0.5) or the same (0). After the determination of the degree of the parameters, the volunteers gave their associations as a creative statement. The test was performed in the double-blind mode. The samples were coded and applied randomly.
To evaluate the sensory data, the medians for each parameter were calculated, as well as the average absolute deviation from the median as a measure of the variation of the individual values for each parameter. To calculate the statistical significance of a pair-wise comparison, the Wilcoxon test was carried out. In the chart of Figure 1, the position of the symbol indicates the median, and the average absolute deviation from the median is transformed into the weighted deviation from the median and shown in the chart in the form of shifted lines.
Result in Figure 1 shows that composition 1 comprising the inventive triglyceride imparts a good holding performance to the treated hair without residue, waxy or sticky sensory comparing with the comparative composition 1 comprising the natural wax (Candelilla wax).
Example 4 - Bending stiffness test Hair strands:
Standard IHIP (International Hair Importers, New York) flat hair strands (Chinese hair) were used. The parameters of the flat hair strands were as follows: 1.8 g free hair, 2 cm width, 8 cm length; glued part: 2cm x 2cm soft swatch.
Apparatus
T. A. Plus Texture Analyzer (supplier: Stable Micro Systems);
3-Point bending stiffness setup, starting height pre-set: 40 mm;
PE-Tray with channels of 20.5 mm width and 5 mm depth, polyethylene ST 7000 EHT from Wefapress (length 310mm x width 250mm x height 15 mm);
Metal roller of 2cm width and 217g weight without structure; and
Comb with rough and fine side, Hercules Sagemann 664/326 8”, Strong lady comb, Order nr. 0008710 (Basler catalog 2013).
Preparation of the samples:
3 strands per composition were used. 0.62g composition was applied on the top of each hair strand and distributed evenly by stroking the strand 40 times between the thumb and the index finger while turning the strand a bit after each stroke.
Then each strand was combed 2 times with the fine side of the comb (once for each side). The scattered parts were brought together between 2 fingers without exerting pressure.
After that, the hair strand was laid in a channel of the tray made of polyethylene (PE) and spread evenly in the full width of the channel. With a special metal roller, it was squeezed and flattened 10 times from the glued part to tip (5 times for each side and flip the strand carefully after squeezing 5 times on one side). Hereby the metal roller was rolled over the strand without exerting pressure vertically.
By grabbing the soft swatch and pulling the hair strand carefully and straight out of the channel, and then it was clamped on the soft swatch and hanged to dry for 4h at 23 °C and 50% relative humidity before the first measurement.
The dried strand was placed directly centered on the texture analyzer and the bending stiffness is measured (one measurement per strand).
The average values for each product were calculated based on 3 tested strands. Table 4: The bending stiffness of the hair treated with different compositions
Figure imgf000025_0001
* compositions 2 to 12 were prepared according to the same procedure as described for composition 1 except that the triglyceride in composition 1 was replaced with the corresponding triglycerides as shown in table 4.
Surprisingly, compositions 7 to 11 comprising the triglyceride according to the present invention lead to good bending stiffness and the bending stiffness in compositions 9 to 11 is further improved.

Claims

Claims
1 . A triglyceride of docosanoic acid /at least one long chain fatty acid, wherein the long chain fatty acid has from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, is different from docosanoic acid and comprises eicosanoic acid and wherein the weight ratio of docosanoic acid to eicosanoic acid is in the range from 7 to 14.
2. The triglyceride of docosanoic acid /at least one long chain fatty acid according to claim 1 , wherein the weight ratio of docosanoic acid to eicosanoic acid is in the range from 7 to 11 , preferably from 9 to 11 .
3. The triglyceride of docosanoic acid /at least one long chain fatty acid according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the long chain fatty acid further comprises at least one C14-C30 fatty acid different from eicosanoic acid, wherein the C14-C30 fatty acid is saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated.
4. The triglyceride of docosanoic acid /at least one long chain fatty acid according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the C14-C30 fatty acid different from eicosanoic acid has from 14 to 25 carbon atoms, preferably from 16 to 24 carbon atoms.
5. The triglyceride of docosanoic acid /at least one long chain fatty acid according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the C14-C30 fatty acid different from eicosanoic acid is selected from do- decanoic acid, tetradecanoic acid, hexadecanoic acid, octadecanoic acid, isooctadecanoic acid, tetracosanoic acid, oleic acid, tall oil fatty acid, linolic acid, linoleic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, docosahexanoic acid and mixture thereof.
6. The triglyceride of docosanoic acid /at least one long chain fatty acid according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the C14-C30 fatty acid different from eicosanoic acid is selected from hexadecanoic acid, octadecanoic acid, tetracosanoic acid and mixture thereof, preferably from hexadecanoic acid, octadecanoic acid and mixture thereof.
7. The triglyceride of docosanoic acid /at least one long chain fatty acid according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the content of docosanoic acid is in the range from 35 to 80 wt.%, preferably from 40 to 70 wt.%, based on the total weight of docosanoic acid and the long chain fatty acid.
8. The triglyceride of docosanoic acid /at least one long chain fatty acid according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the content of eicosanoic acid is in the range from 2 to 15 wt.%, preferably from 4 to 10 wt.%, based on the total weight of docosanoic acid and the long chain fatty acid.
9. The triglyceride of docosanoic acid /at least one long chain fatty acid according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the long chain fatty acid further comprises octadecanoic acid in addition to eicosanoic acid.
10. The triglyceride of docosanoic acid /at least one long chain fatty acid according to claim 9, wherein the content of octadecanoic acid is in the range from 10 to 60 wt.%, preferably from 20 to 50 wt.%, based on the total weight of docosanoic acid and the long chain fatty acid.
11. A hair styling and restyling composition comprising a triglyceride of docosanoic acid /at least one long chain fatty acid according to any of claims 1 to 10.
12. The hair styling and restyling composition according to claim 11, wherein the triglyceride of docosanoic acid /at least one long chain fatty acid is comprised in an amount from 5 to 50 wt.%, preferably 8 to 40 wt.%, more preferably 10 to 30 wt.%, in each case relative to the weight of the hair styling and restyling composition.
13. The hair styling and restyling composition according to claim 11 or 12, wherein the composition further comprises an emollient or fatty substance.
14. The hair styling and restyling composition according to any one of claims 11 to 13, wherein the composition further comprises an aqueous phase and the aqueous phase comprises at least one mono- or polyhydric alcohol with from 1 to 5 carbon atoms in addition to water.
15. The hair styling and restyling composition according to any one of claims 11 to 14, wherein the composition further comprises at least one emulsifier, preferably nonionic emulsifier.
16. The hair styling and restyling composition according to claim 15, wherein the emulsifier is selected from addition product of from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide and/or 0 to 5 mol of propylene oxide onto linear fatty alcohol having 8 to 22 carbon atoms and alkyl mono- and oligoglycoside (especially glucoside) having 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical.
17. The hair styling and restyling composition according to claim 15 or 16, wherein the emulsifier is comprised in an amount from 0.5 to 10 wt.%, preferably 1 to 5 wt.%, in each case relative to the weight of the hair styling and restyling composition.
18. The hair styling and restyling composition according to any one of claims 11 to 17, wherein the composition further comprises at least one hair fixing polymer.
19. A process for preparing the triglyceride of docosanoic acid /at least one long chain fatty acid according to any of claims 1 to 10, which comprises reacting glycerol with docosanoic acid and the long chain fatty acid optionally in the presence of a catalyst.
20. A process for preparing the hair styling and restyling composition as defined in any one of claims 11 to 18, which comprises mixing the ingredients of the composition.
21. The process according to claim 20, wherein a fatty phase comprising the triglyceride of docosanoic acid I at least one long chain fatty acid and at least one emulsifier is melted under heating, the aqueous phase is added therein and then the at least one fixing polymer is added therein to obtain the composition.
PCT/EP2021/073302 2020-09-01 2021-08-23 Triglyceride of docosanoic acid / at least one long chain fatty acid and hair styling and restyling composition comprising the same WO2022048939A1 (en)

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