WO2021245081A1

WO2021245081A1 - Composition comprising at least three types of polysaccharides, at least one pasty compound of plant origin and water

Info

Publication number: WO2021245081A1
Application number: PCT/EP2021/064677
Authority: WO
Inventors: Virginie Puisset
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2020-06-01
Filing date: 2021-06-01
Publication date: 2021-12-09
Also published as: FR3110848A1; FR3110848B1

Abstract

The present application relates to a cosmetic composition comprising: - at least three types of polysaccharides (PS): a- A branched homopolysaccharide, such as a scleroglucan; b- A linear polysaccharide, preferably a linear heteropolysaccharide, such as a pectin; and c- A branched heteropolysaccharide, such as a xanthan gum; - at least one pasty compound of plant origin, and - water. Another subject of the present invention is the use, as a thickener and/or gelling agent in a cosmetic and/or dermatological composition, of at least three types of specific polysaccharides, for improving the consistency of the composition, in particular its in-jar hold, while at the same time making it lighter and/or less tacky when taken up with the finger.

Description

Title: Composition comprising at least three types of polysaccharides, at least one pasty compound of plant origin and water

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, preferably of cream gel or emulsified gel type, comprising at least three types of polysaccharides, at least one pasty compound of plant origin and water; and also to the use thereof in the cosmetics field.

[0002] Another subject of the invention is a non-therapeutic process for the cosmetic treatment of a keratin material, in particular the skin and/or the hair, and more particularly the skin, comprising a step of applying to said keratin material at least one layer of said cosmetic composition.

[0003] Another subject of the invention is the use of said combination of at least three types of polysaccharides for improving the consistency of the composition, in particular in a jar, while at the same time making it lighter and/or less tacky when taken up with the finger.

Technical field

[0004] For various reasons linked in particular to better comfort when using them (softness, emollient), current cosmetic compositions comprise an aqueous phase and one or more oils, and are for example in the form of an emulsion of the oil-in- water (O/W) type constituted of an aqueous dispersant continuous phase and an oily dispersed discontinuous phase.

[0005] These compositions are particularly desired in the cosmetics field, since they comprise an aqueous phase as external phase, which gives them, when applied to the skin, a fresher, less greasy and lighter feel than W/O emulsions.

[0006] The existing galenical formulations of emulsified gel (O/W) type generally contain non-natural synthetic polymers, such as hydrophilic acrylic polymers, in particular acrylic polymers of polyacrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) or acidic acrylic polymers. These polymers make it possible in particular to prepare numerous aqueous compositions, in a broad pH range, the viscosity of which remains stable over time at ambient temperature or at higher temperatures. They also make it possible to produce non-runny, non-flowing, homogeneous, transparent aqueous gels which are soft and which glide on application and are stable with respect to storage.

[0007] However, in recent years, the cosmetics market has also experienced a huge demand for formulations containing ingredients of natural origin. Consumers desire formulations that are free of chemicals, to which they prefer natural compounds or compounds of natural origin, which are renowned for their better tolerance and affinity with the skin, and which are more environmentally friendly.

[0008] In particular, consumers are increasingly looking for cosmetic products which do not comprise synthetic polymers, in particular acrylic polymers, or silicone compounds, such as volatile silicone compounds, and also target cosmetic products comprising as little surfactant as possible.

[0009] The formulator must therefore meet the double challenge:

[0010] of naturality, with a composition comprising as little surfactant as possible, wherein synthetic polymer thickeners and silicones are replaced by natural starting materials, or starting materials of natural origin; and

[0011] of sensoriality, so that the more natural formulations have the same sensory properties as the existing non-natural formulations that they are intended to replace, consumers being in particular used to certain sensorial and texture- related properties, characteristic of silicones and of acrylic polymers.

[0012] The term "natural compound" is intended to mean a compound that is obtained directly from the earth or the soil, or from plants or animals, via, where appropriate, one or more physical processes, for instance milling, refining, distillation, purification or filtration.

[0013] The term compounds "of natural origin" is intended to mean a natural compound that has undergone one or more additional chemical or industrial treatments, giving rise to modifications that do not affect the essential qualities of this compound and/or a compound predominantly comprising natural constituents that may or may not have undergone transformations as indicated above.

[0014] As non-limiting examples of additional chemical or industrial treatments bringing about modifications which do not affect the essential qualities of a natural compound, mention may be made of those allowed by the regulatory bodies such as Ecocert (Reference system for cosmetic, biological and ecological products, January 2003), or defined in handbooks recognized in the field, such as Cosmetics and Toiletries Magazine, 2005, Vol. 120, 9:10.

[0015] The replacement of certain synthetic ingredients in a formulation, by natural ingredients, can lead to problems of change in texture, and stability problems, and can in turn require adaptations regarding the other ingredients of the formulation to be revamped, in order to return to the initial texture and sensorythat consumers are used to for formulations of this type.

[0016] Consumers are increasingly searching for innovative formats of cosmetic products, in particular moisturizing products, having an original texture, while at the same time being easy and pleasant to apply. The products of natural emulsified gel type are packaged in tubes and do not have a texture that is of sufficient "consistency" and are too fluid to be packaged in jars. Natural cream formulations in jars are stiff when taken up.

[0017] It is therefore sought to formulate compositions comprising ingredients which are compatible with the formulation of "natural" and/or "certified biological" cosmetic products, and which have good cosmetic properties, while at the same time being stable, even in the presence of quite a high water content (typically greater than 65%), and in the absence of surfactant.

[0018] An objective of the present invention is therefore to provide a composition of cream gel type which is of sufficient consistency to exhibit good in-jar hold, which has good sensory properties, such as the absence of greasy or tacky feeling during and after application, and which provides a light effect on take-up with the finger and an effect of glide on application.

[0019] An objective of the present invention is also to provide a composition, in particular of cream gel or oil-in-water (O/W) emulsified gel type, based on ingredients that are as natural as possible and using as little surfactant as possible.

[0020] The applicant has now found that the combination of natural thickeners comprising 3 types of polysaccharides, in a formulation comprising a fatty phase comprising a pasty fatty compound of plant origin and an aqueous phase, makes it possible to obtain an emulsified composition even in the absence of surfactant. The composition obtained, of cream gel type, which is natural and has a characteristic texture, has both:

[0021] good in-jar hold or consistency and good in-jar stability, and

[0022] a particularly light, non-tacky take-up with the finger, and a gliding and non- greasy application.

[0023] This combination of polysaccharides makes it possible to obtain emulsified gels which have a texture and a take-up with the finger that are comparable to the formulations of emulsified gels containing non-natural synthetic polymers, while at the same time being in ajar, and to efficiently stabilize the formulation, even without surfactant.

Detailed description

[0024] A subject of the present invention is thus a cosmetic composition comprising:

[0025] - at least three types of polysaccharides (PS), namely:

[0026] a- A branched homopolysaccharide (PSa), such as a scleroglucan;

[0027] b- A linear polysaccharide (PSb), preferably a linear heteropolysaccharide, such as a pectin; and

[0028] c- A branched heteropolysaccharide (PSc), such as a xanthan gum;

[0029] - at least one pasty compound of plant origin, and

[0030] - water.

[0031 ] Another subject of the present invention is a non-therapeutic process for the cosmetic treatment of a keratin material, in particular the skin and/or the hair, and more particularly the skin, comprising a step of applying to said keratin material at least one layer of cosmetic composition according to the invention.

[0032] Another subject of the present invention is the use, as a thickener and/or gelling agent in a cosmetic and/or dermatological composition, of at least three types of polysaccharides as defined in claims 1 to 10, for improving the consistency of the composition, in particular its in-jar hold, while at the same time making it lighter and/or less tacky when taken up with the finger. [0033] Thus, it has been demonstrated that each of these 3 types of PS, once combined in a trio, adds a real texture-related and sensorial added value to the formulation of cream gel type of the invention, in particular that:

[0034] - the branched heteropolysaccharide PSc is necessary for obtaining the "suspension" of the formulation;

[0035] - the branched homopolysaccharide PSa is necessary for obtaining a particularly smooth and homogeneous texture; and

[0036] - the linear polysaccharide PSb is necessary for obtaining the non-tacky effect and facilitates spreading of the cream gel.

[0037] The invention is not limited to the examples illustrated. The features of the various examples may in particular be combined within variants which are not illustrated.

[0038] Throughout the present description of the invention, the following definitions are used.

[0039] Unless otherwise mentioned, the contents and percentages are given by weight.

[0040] Unless otherwise indicated, the limits of the ranges of values that are given in the description of the present invention are included in these ranges.

[0041] In what follows or in the aforementioned, the expression "at least one" is equivalent to the expression "one or more", that is to say one or two or three or more.

[0042] According to the invention, the term "keratin materials" is intended to mean the skin of the body, face and/or area around the eyes, the lips, the nails, the mucous membranes, the eyelashes, the eyebrows, bodily hair, the scalp and/or the hair, or any other area of bodily skin. More particularly, the keratin materials according to the invention are the scalp, the hair and/or the skin. Preferably, the keratin materials according to the invention are the skin.

[0043] The term "skin" is intended to mean all of the skin of the body, and preferably the skin of the face, neckline, neck, arms and forearms, or even more preferably the skin of the face, in particular of the forehead, nose, cheeks, chin and area around the eyes. [0044] All of the compositions according to the present invention are cosmetic compositions. The term "cosmetic" is intended to mean a composition that is compatible with the skin, the mucous membranes and the integuments.

[0045] The term "cosmetic product" is intended to mean any product as defined in Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council of November 30, 2009 on cosmetic products.

[0046] The term "leave-on" cosmetic product is intended to mean any cosmetic product which the application to the keratin materials to be treated is not followed by rinsing off, such as rinsing off with water.

[0047] Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is a leave-on cosmetic product for the treatment of keratin materials, such as the skin.

[0048] Polysaccharides

[0049] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polysaccharides" is intended to mean a polymer constituted of sugar units, having in particular hydrophilic gelling or thickening properties.

[0050] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "sugar unit" is intended to mean an oxygen-comprising hydrocarbon-based compound which has several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone function, and which comprises at least 4 carbon atoms.

[0051] The sugar units can be optionally modified by substitution, and/or by oxidation and/or by dehydration.

[0052] The sugar units that may be included in the composition of the polysaccharides of the invention are preferably derived from the following sugars: glucose, galactose, arabinose, rhamnose, mannose, fucose, anhydrogalactose, galacturonic acid, glucuronic acid, mannuronic acid, galactose sulfate, anhydrogalactose sulfate and fructose.

[0053] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "hydrophilic gelling polysaccharide" is intended to mean any water-soluble or water-dispersible polysaccharide that is capable of giving a gelled solution after implementation with or without heating.

[0054] These gelling agents may be particulate or non-particulate. [0055] In general, polysaccharides may be divided into several categories.

[0056] Thus, the polysaccharides that are suitable for use in the invention may be homopolysaccharides such as fructans, glucans, galactans and mannans or heteropolysaccharides such as hemicellulose. Similarly, they may be linear polysaccharides such as pullulan or branched polysaccharides such as gum arabic and amylopectin, or mixed polysaccharides such as starch.

More particularly, the polysaccharides of branched homopolysaccharide (PSa), linear polysaccharide (PSb), and branched heteropolysaccharide (PSc) type, suitable for use in the invention, can be chosen from starchy or non-starchy polysaccharides, preferably chosen by non-starchy polysaccharides, listed below, and selected from this list according to their hetero/homo, linear/branched nature, as defined for each of the 3 types of polysaccharides according to the invention.

[0057] . Non-starchy polysaccharides

[0058] According to one embodiment variant, the hydrophilic gelling agent is non- starchy.

[0059] In general, the non-starchy polysaccharides may be chosen from polysaccharides produced by microorganisms, polysaccharides isolated from algae, and higher plant polysaccharides, such as homogeneous polysaccharides, in particular celluloses and derivatives thereof or fructosans, heterogeneous polysaccharides such as gum arabics, galactomannans, glucomannans and pectins, and derivatives thereof; and mixtures thereof.

[0060] In particular, the polysaccharides may be chosen from fructans, gellans, glucans, amylose, amylopectin, glycogen, pullulan, dextrans, celluloses and derivatives thereof, in particular methylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, ethylhydroxyethylcelluloses and carboxymethylcelluloses, mannans, xylans, lignins, arabans, galactans, galacturonans, alginate-based compounds, chitin, chitosans, glucuronoxylans, arabinoxylans, xyloglucans, glucomannans, pectic acids and pectins, arabinogalactans, carrageenans, agars, glycosaminoglucans, gum arabics, tragacanth gums, ghatti gums, karaya gums, locust bean gums, galactomannans such as guar gums and nonionic derivatives thereof, in particular hydroxypropyl guar, and ionic derivatives thereof, biopolysaccharide gums of microbial origin, in particular scleroglucan or xanthan gums, mucopolysaccharides, and in particular chondroitin sulfates, and mixtures thereof.

[0061] These polysaccharides may be chemically modified, especially with urea or urethane groups or by hydrolysis, oxidation, esterification, etherification, sulfation, phosphatation, amination, amidation or alkylation reaction, or by several of these modifications. The derivatives obtained may be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic.

[0062] Advantageously, the polysaccharides may be chosen from carrageenans, in particular kappa-carrageenan, gellan gum, agar-agar, xanthan gum, alginate- based compounds, in particular sodium alginate, scleroglucan gum, guar gum, inulin and pullulan, and mixtures thereof.

[0063] In general, the compounds of this type that may be used in the present invention are chosen from those described especially in Kirk-Othmer’s Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, Third Edition, 1982, volume 3, pp. 896- 900, and volume 15, pp. 439-458, in Polymers in Nature by E.A. MacGregor and C.T. Greenwood, published by John Wiley & Sons, Chapter 6, pp. 240-328, 1980, in the book by Robert L. Davidson entitled Handbook of Water-Soluble Gums and Resins published by McGraw-Hill Book Company (1980) and in Industrial Gums - Polysaccharides and their Derivatives, edited by Roy L. Whistler, Second Edition, published by Academic Press Inc.

[0064] More precisely, these polysaccharides that are suitable for use in the invention may be distinguished according to whether they are derived from microorganisms, from algae or from higher plants, and are detailed below.

[0065] Polysaccharides produced by microorganisms

[0066] Xanthan

[0067] Xanthan is a heteropolysaccharide produced on an industrial scale by the aerobic fermentation of the bacterium Xanthomonas campestris. Its structure is constituted of a main chain of b(1 ,4)-linked b-D-glucoses, similar to cellulose.

One glucose molecule in two bears a trisaccharide side chain composed of an a- D-mannose, a b-D-glucuronic acid and a terminal b-D-mannose. The internal mannose residue is generally acetylated on carbon 6. About 30% of the terminal mannose residues bear a pyruvate group linked in chelated form between carbons 4 and 6. The charged pyruvic acids and glucuronic acids are ionizable, and are thus responsible for the anionic nature of xanthan (negative charge down to a pH equal to 1 ). The content of the pyruvate and acetate residues varies according to the bacterial strain, the fermentation process, the conditions after fermentation and the purification steps. These groups may be neutralized in commercial products with Na+, K+ or Ca2+ ions (Satia company, 1986). The neutralized form may be converted into the acid form by ion exchange or by dialysis of an acidic solution.

[0068] Xanthan gums have a molecular weight of between 1 000000 and 50000 000 and a viscosity of between 0.6 and 1.65 Pa.s for an aqueous composition containing 1% of xanthan gum (measured at 25°C on a Brookfield viscometer of LVT type at 60 rpm).

[0069] Xanthan gums are represented, for example, by the products sold under the names Rhodicare by the company Rhodia Chimie, under the name Satiaxane™ by the company Cargill Texturizing Solutions (for the food, cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries), under the name Novaxan™ by the company ADM, and under the names Kelzan® and Keltrol® by the company CP-Kelco.

[0070] Pullulan

[0071] Pullulan is a polysaccharide constituted of maltotriose units, known under the name a(1,4)-a(1,6)-glucan. Three glucose units in maltotriose are connected via an a(1,4) glycoside bond, whereas the consecutive maltotriose units are connected to each other via an a(1,6) glycoside bond. Pullulan is produced, for example, under the reference Pullulan PF 20 by the group Hayashibara in Japan.

[0072] Dextran and dextran sulfate

[0073] Dextran is a neutral polysaccharide not bearing any charged groups, which is biologically inert, prepared by fermentation of beet sugar containing solely hydroxyl groups. It is possible to obtain dextran fractions of different molecular weights from native dextran by hydrolysis and purification. Dextran may in particular be in the form of dextran sulfate.

[0074] Dextran is represented, for example, by the products sold under the name Dextran or Dextran T by the company Pharmacosmos, or under the name Dextran 40 Powder or Dextran 70 Powder by the company Meito Sangyo Co. Dextran sulfate is sold by the company PK Chemical A/S under the name Dextran sulfate.

[0075] Succinoglycan

[0076] Succinoglycan is an extracellular polymer of high molecular weight produced by bacterial fermentation, constituted of octasaccharide repeating units (repetition of 8 sugars). Succinoglycans are sold, for example, under the name Rheozan by the company Rhodia.

[0077] Scleroglucan

[0078] Scleroglucan is a nonionic branched homopolysaccharide constituted of b-D- glucan units. The molecules are constituted of a linear main chain formed from D- glucose units linked via b(1 ,3) bonds and of which one in three is linked to a side D-glucose unit via a b(1 ,6) bond. A more complete description of scleroglucans and of their preparation may be found in document US 3,301 ,848.

[00791 The scleroglucans used in accordance with the invention are nonionic polysaccharides preferably corresponding to formula (I):

[0080] [Chem. 1]

[0081] where the degree of polymerization n ranges from 500 to 1600.

[0082] According to the invention, use is advantageously made of scleroglucans of microbial origin, obtained for example by aerobic fermentation of a glucose- containing medium by a fungus of the Sclerotium type and having the structure of a D-glucopyranose homopolymer. [0083] Examples of scleroglucan gums that may be used in the present invention are, in a nonlimiting manner, the products sold under the name Actigum CS, in particular Actigum CS 11 , by the company Sanofi Bio Industries, and under the names Amigum and Amigel by the company Alban MCiller International.

[0084] Gellan gum

[0085] Gellan gum is an anionic linear heteropolyoside based on oligoside units composed of 4 saccharides (tetra-oside). D-Glucose, L-rhamnose and D- glucuronic acid in 2:1:1 proportions are present in gellan gum in the form of monomer elements. It is sold, for example, under the name Kelcogel CG LA by the company CP Kelco.

[0086] Polysaccharides isolated from algae

[0087] Galactans

[0088] The polysaccharide according to the invention may be a galactan chosen especially from agar or carrageenans. Carrageenans are anionic polysaccharides constituting the cell walls of various red algae (Rhodophyceae) belonging to the Gigartinacae, Hypneaceae, Furcellariaceae and Polyideaceae families. They are generally obtained by hot aqueous extraction from natural strains of said algae. These linear polymers, formed by disaccharide units, are composed of two D- galactopyranose units linked alternately by a(1,3) and b(1 ,4) bonds. They are highly sulfated polysaccharides (20-50%) and the a-D-galactopyranosyl residues may be in 3,6-anhydro form. Depending on the number and position of sulfate- ester groups on the repeating disaccharide of the molecule, several types of carrageenans are distinguished, namely: kappa-carrageenans, which bear one sulfate-ester group, iota-carrageenans, which bear two sulfate-ester groups, and lambda-carrageenans, which bear three sulfate-ester groups.

[0089] Carrageenans are composed essentially of potassium, sodium, magnesium, triethanolamine and/or calcium salts and of polysaccharide sulfate esters. Carrageenans are sold especially by the company SEPPIC under the name Solagum®, by the company Gelymar under the names Carragel®, Carralact® and Carrasol®, by the company Cargill under the names Satiagel™ and Satiagum™, and by the company CP-Kelco under the names Genulacta®, Genugel® and Genuvisco®. [0090] Galactans of agar type are galactose polysaccharides contained in the cell wall of some of these species of red algae (rhodophyceae). They are formed from a polymer group of which the backbone is a b(1 ,3) D-galactopyranose and a(1 ,4) L 3-6 anhydrogalactose chain, these units repeating regularly and alternately.

The differences within the agar family are due to the presence or absence of solvated methyl or carboxyethyl groups. These hybrid structures are generally present in variable percentage, depending on the species of algae and the harvest season. Agar-agar is a mixture of polysaccharides (agarose and agaropectin) of high molecular weight, between 40000 and 300000 g.mol-1. It is obtained by manufacturing algal extraction liquors, generally by autoclaving, and by treating these liquors which comprise about 2% of agar-agar, so as to extract the latter. Agar is produced, for example, by the group B&V Agar Producers under the names Gold Agar, Agarite and Grand Agar by the company Hispanagar, and under the names Agar-Agar, QSA (Quick Soluble Agar), and Puragar by the company Setexam.

[0091] Furcellaran

[0092] Furcellaran is obtained commercially from red algae Furcellaria fasztigiata. Furcellaran is produced, for example, by the company Est-Agar.

[0093] Alginate-based compound

[0094] For the purposes of the invention, the term "alginate-based compound" is intended to mean alginic acid, alginic acid derivatives and salts of alginic acid (alginates) or of said derivatives. Preferably, the alginate-based compound is water-soluble.

[0095] Alginic acid, a natural substance resulting from brown algae or certain bacteria, is a polyuronic acid composed of 2 uronic acids linked by 1 ,4-glycosidic bonds: b-D-mannuronic acid (M) and a-L-glucuronic acid (G). Alginic acid is capable of forming water-soluble salts (alginates) with alkali metals such as sodium, potassium or lithium, substituted cations of lower amines and of ammonium such as methylamine, ethanolamine, diethanolamine or triethanolamine. These alginates are water-soluble in aqueous medium at a pH equal to 4, but dissociate into alginic acid at a pH below 4. [0096] This (these) alginate-based compound(s) is (are) capable of crosslinking in the presence of at least one crosslinking agent, by formation of ionic bonds between said alginate-based compound(s) and said crosslinking agent(s). The formation of multiple crosslinks between several molecules of said alginate-based compound(s) leads to the formation of a water-insoluble gel.

[0097] Use is preferably made of alginate-based compounds that have a weight- average molecular weight ranging from 10000 to 1 000000, preferably from 15 000 to 500000 and better still from 20000 to 250000.

[0098] According to a preferred embodiment, the alginate-based compound is alginic acid and/or a salt thereof. Advantageously, the alginate-based compound is an alginate salt, and preferably sodium alginate.

[0099] The alginate-based compound may be chemically modified, especially with urea or urethane groups or by hydrolysis, oxidation, esterification, etherification, sulfatation, phosphatation, amination, amidation or alkylation reaction, or by several of these modifications. The derivatives obtained may be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic.

[0100] The alginate-based compounds that are suitable for use in the invention may be represented, for example, by the products sold under the names Kelcosol, Satialgine™, Cecalgum™ or Algogel™ by the company Cargill Products, under the name Protanal™ by the company FMC Biopolymer, under the name Grindsted® Alginate by the company Danisco, under the name Kimica Algin by the company Kimica, and under the names Manucol® and Manugel® by the company ISP.

[0101] Polysaccharides of higher plants

[0102] This category of polysaccharides may be divided into homogeneous polysaccharides (only one saccharide species) and heterogeneous polysaccharides composed of several types of saccharides.

[0103] a) Homogeneous polysaccharides and derivatives thereof

[0104] The polysaccharide according to the invention may be chosen from celluloses and derivatives or fructosans.

[0105] Cellulose and derivatives [0106] The polysaccharide according to the invention may also be a cellulose or a derivative thereof, in particular cellulose ethers or esters (e.g.: methylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxymethylpropylcellulose, cellulose acetate, cellulose nitrate, nitrocellulose).

[0107] The invention may also contain a cellulose-based associative polymer. According to the invention, the term "cellulose-based compound" is intended to mean any polysaccharide compound bearing in its structure linear sequences of anhydroglucopyranose residues (AGUs) linked together via b(1 ,4) glycoside bonds. The repeating unit is the cellobiose dimer. The AGUs are in chair conformation and bear 3 hydroxyl functions: two secondary alcohols (in position 2 and 3) and one primary alcohol (in position 6). The polymers thus formed combine together via intermolecular bonds of hydrogen bond type, thus giving the cellulose a fibrillar structure (about 1500 molecules per fiber). The degree of polymerization differs enormously depending on the origin of the cellulose; its value may range from a few hundred to several tens of thousands.

[0108] The hydroxyl groups of cellulose may react partially or totally with various chemical reagents to give cellulose derivatives having intrinsic properties. The cellulose derivatives may be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic. Among these derivatives, cellulose ethers, cellulose esters and cellulose ester ethers are distinguished.

[0109] Among the nonionic cellulose ethers, mention may be made of alkylcelluloses such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses; hydroxyalkylcelluloses such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses and hydroxypropylcelluloses; and mixed hydroxyalkylalkylcelluloses such as hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylethylcelluloses and hydroxybutylmethylcelluloses.

[0110] Among the anionic cellulose ethers, mention may be made of carboxyalkylcelluloses and salts thereof. By way of example, mention may be made of carboxymethylcelluloses, carboxymethylmethylcelluloses and carboxymethylhydroxyethylcelluloses and sodium salts thereof. [0111] Among the cationic cellulose ethers, mention may be made of crosslinked or non-crosslinked quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses.

[0112] The quaternizing agent may in particular be glycidyltrimethylammonium chloride or a fatty amine such as laurylamine or stearylamine. Another cationic cellulose ether that may be mentioned is hydroxyethylcellulosehydroxypropyltrimethylammonium.

[0113] The quaternized cellulose derivatives are, in particular:

[0114] - quaternized celluloses modified with groups including at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups including at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof;

[0115] - quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups including at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups including at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof.

[0116] The alkyl radicals borne by the above quaternized celluloses or hydroxyethylcelluloses preferably include from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The aryl radicals preferably denote phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthryl groups.

[0117] Examples of quaternized alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses containing C8-C30 fatty chains that may be indicated include the products Quatrisoft LM 200, Quatrisoft LM-X529-18-A, Quatrisoft LM-X529-18B (C12 alkyl) and Quatrisoft LM-X529-8 (C18 alkyl) sold by the company Amerchol and the products Crodacel QM, Crodacel QL (C12 alkyl) and Crodacel QS (C18 alkyl) sold by the company Croda.

[0118] Among the cellulose derivatives, mention may also be made of:

[0119] - celluloses modified with groups including at least one fatty chain, for instance hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups including at least one fatty chain such as alkyl, in particular C8-C22 alkyl, arylalkyl and alkylaryl groups, such as Natrosol Plus Grade 330 CS (Cie alkyls) sold by the company Aqualon, and

[0120] - celluloses modified with polyalkylene glycol alkylphenyl ether groups, such as the product Amercell Polymer HM-1500 (nonylphenyl polyethylene glycol (15) ether) sold by the company Amerchol.

[0121] Among the cellulose esters are mineral esters of cellulose (cellulose nitrates, sulfates, phosphates, etc.), organic esters of cellulose (cellulose monoacetates, triacetates, amidopropionates, acetatebutyrates, acetatepropionates or acetatetrimellitates, etc.), and mixed organic/mineral esters of cellulose, such as cellulose acetatebutyrate sulfates and cellulose acetatepropionate sulfates. Mention may be made, among cellulose ether esters, of hydroxypropylmethylcellulose phthalates and ethylcellulose sulfates.

[0122] The cellulose-based compounds of the invention may be chosen from unsubstituted celluloses and substituted celluloses.

[0123] The celluloses and derivatives are represented, for example, by the products sold under the names Avicel® (microcrystalline cellulose, MCC) by the company FMC Biopolymers, under the name Cekol (carboxymethylcellulose) by the company Noviant (CP-Kelco), under the name Akucell AF (sodium carboxymethylcellulose) by the company AkzoNobel, under the name Methocel™ (cellulose ethers) and Ethocel™ (ethylcellulose) by the company Dow, and under the names Aqualon® (carboxymethylcellulose and sodium carboxymethylcellulose), Benecel® (methylcellulose), Blanose™ (carboxymethylcellulose), Culminal® (methylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose), Klucel® (hydroxypropylcellulose), Polysurf® (cetylhydroxyethylcellulose) and Natrosol® CS (hydroxyethylcellulose) by the company Flercules Aqualon.

[0124] Fructosans

[0125] The polysaccharide according to the invention may especially be a fructosan chosen from inulin and derivatives thereof (especially dicarboxy and carboxymethyl inulins). Fructans or fructosans are oligosaccharides or polysaccharides comprising a sequence of anhydrofructose units optionally combined with one or several saccharide residues other than fructose. Fructans may be linear or branched. Fructans may be products obtained directly from a plant or microbial source or alternatively products of which the chain length has been modified (increased or decreased) by fractionation, synthesis or hydrolysis, in particular enzymatic. Fructans generally have a degree of polymerization from 2 to about 1000, and preferably from 2 to about 60. Three groups of fructans are distinguished. The first group corresponds to products of which the fructose units are for the most part linked via b(2,1) bonds. These are essentially linear fructans such as inulins. The second group also corresponds to linear fructoses, but the fructose units are essentially linked via b(2,6) bonds. These products are levans. The third group corresponds to mixed fructans, i.e. containing b(2,6) and b(2,1) sequences. These are essentially branched fructans, such as graminans.

[0126] The preferred fructans in the compositions according to the invention are inulins. Inulin may be obtained, for example, from chicory, dahlia or Jerusalem artichoke, preferably from chicory.

[0127] In particular, the polysaccharide, especially the inulin, has a degree of polymerization from 2 to about 1000 and preferably from 2 to about 60, and a degree of substitution of less than 2 on the basis of one fructose unit.

[0128] The inulin used for this invention is represented, for example, by the products sold under the name Beneo™ inulin by the company Orafti, and under the name Frutafit® by the company Sensus.

[0129] b) Heterogeneous polysaccharides and derivatives thereof

[0130] The polysaccharides that may be used according to the invention may be gums, for instance cassia gum, karaya gum, konjac gum, gum tragacanth, tara gum, acacia gum or gum arabic.

[0131] Gum arabic

[0132] Gum arabic is a highly branched acidic polysaccharide which is in the form of mixtures of potassium, magnesium and calcium salts. The monomer elements of the free acid (arabic acid) are D-galactose, L-arabinose, L-rhamnose and D- glucuronic acid.

[0133] Galactomannans (guar, locust bean, fenugreek, tara gum) and derivatives (guar phosphate, hydroxypropyl guar, etc.)

[0134] Galactomannans are nonionic polyosides extracted from the endosperm of leguminous seeds, of which they constitute the storage carbohydrate. Galactomannans are macromolecules constituted of a main chain of b(1 ,4)-linked D-mannopyranose units, bearing side branches constituted of a single D- galactopyranose unit a(1,6)-linked to the main chain. The various galactomannans differ, firstly, by the proportion of a-D-galactopyranose units present in the polymer, and secondly by significant differences in terms of distribution of galactose units along the mannose chain. The mannose/galactose (M/G) ratio is of the order of 2 for guar gum, 3 for tara gum and 4 for locust bean gum.

[0135] Guar [0136] Guar gum is characterized by a mannose:galactose ratio of the order of 2: 1.

The galactose group is regularly distributed along the mannose chain. The guar gums that may be used according to the invention may be nonionic, cationic or anionic. According to the invention, use may be made of chemically modified or unmodified nonionic guar gums. [0137] The unmodified nonionic guar gums are, for example, the products sold under the names Vidogum GH, Vidogum G and Vidocrem by the company Unipektin and under the name Jaguar by the company Rhodia, under the name Meypro® Guar by the company Danisco, under the name Viscogum™ by the company Cargill, and under the name Supercol® guar gum by the company Aqualon. [0138] The hydrolyzed nonionic guar gums that may be used according to the invention are represented, for example, by the products sold under the name Meyprodor® by the company Danisco.

[0139] The modified nonionic guar gums that may be used according to the invention are preferably modified with C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl groups, among which mention may be made, as examples, of hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.

[0140] Such nonionic guar gums optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups are sold, for example, under the trade names Jaguar HP 60, Jaguar HP 105 and Jaguar HP 120 (hydroxypropyl guar) by the company Rhodia, or under the name N-Hance® HP (hydroxypropyl guar) by the company Aqualon.

[0141] The cationic galactomannan gums preferably have a cationic charge density of less than or equal to 1.5 meq./g and more particularly between 0.1 and 1 meq./g. The charge density may be determined by the Kjeldahl method. It generally corresponds to a pH of the order of 3 to 9. [0142] In general, for the purposes of the present invention, the term "cationic galactomannan gum" is intended to mean any galactomannan gum containing cationic groups and/or groups that can be ionized into cationic groups.

[0143] The preferred cationic groups are chosen from those including primary, secondary, tertiary and/or quaternary amine groups.

[0144] The cationic galactomannan gums used generally have a weight-average molecular weight of between 500 and 5x10⁶ approximately, and preferably between 10³ and 3x10⁶ approximately.

[0145] The cationic galactomannan gums that may be used according to the present invention are, for example, gums including tri(Ci-C4)alkylammonium cationic groups. Preferably, 2% to 30% by number of the hydroxyl functions of these gums bear trialkylammonium cationic groups.

[0146] Among these trialkylammonium groups, mention may most particularly be made of the trimethylammonium and triethylammonium groups.

[0147] Even more preferentially, these groups represent from 5% to 20% by weight of the total weight of the modified galactomannan gum.

[0148] According to the invention, the cationic galactomannan gum is preferably a guar gum including hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium groups, i.e. a guar gum modified, for example, with 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride.

[0149] These galactomannan gums, in particular guar gums modified with cationic groups, are products already known per se and are, for example, described in patents US 3589578 and US 4031 307. Such products are moreover sold in particular under the trade names Jaguar Excel, Jaguar C13 S, Jaguar C 15, Jaguar C 17 and Jaguar C162 (Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride) by the company Rhodia, under the name Amilan® Guar (Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride) by the company Degussa, and under the name N-Hance® 3000 (Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride) by the company Aqualon.

[0150] The anionic guar gums that may be used according to the invention are polymers including groups derived from carboxylic, sulfonic, sulfenic, phosphoric, phosphonic or pyruvic acid. The anionic group is preferably a carboxylic acid group. The anionic group may also be in the form of an acid salt, in particular a sodium, calcium, lithium or potassium salt.

[0151 ] The anionic guar gums that may be used according to the invention are preferentially carboxymethyl guar derivatives (carboxym ethyl guar or carboxymethyl hydroxypropyl guar).

[0152] Locust bean

[0153] Locust bean gum is extracted from the seeds of the locust bean tree ( Ceratonia siliqua).

[0154] The unmodified locust bean gum that may be used in this invention is sold, for example, under the name Viscogum™ by the company Cargill, under the name Vidogum L by the company Unipektin and under the name Grinsted® LBG by the company Danisco. The chemically modified locust bean gums that may be used in this invention may be represented, for example, by the cationic locust beans sold under the name Catinal CLB (locust bean hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride) by the company Toho.

[0155] Tara gum

[0156] The tara gum that may be used in the context of this invention is sold, for example, under the name Vidogum SP by the company Unipektin.

[0157] Glucomannans (konjac gum)

[0158] Glucomannan is a polysaccharide of high molecular weight

[0159] (500000 < Mglucomannan < 2000000), composed of D-mannose and D- glucose units with a branch every 50 or 60 units approximately. It is found in wood, but is also the main constituent of konjac gum. Konjac ( Amorphophallus konjac) is a plant of the Araceae family.

[0160] The products that may be used according to the invention are sold, for example, under the names Propol® and Rheolex® by the company Shimizu.

[0161] Pectins, LM and HM pectins, and derivatives

[0162] Pectins are linear polymers of a-D-galacturonic acid linked in positions 1 and 4, with a certain proportion of carboxylic groups esterified with a methanol group. [0163] About 20% of the sugars constituting the pectin molecule are neutral sugars (L-rhamnose, D-glucose, D-galactose, L-arabinose, D-xylose).

[0164] L-Rhamnose residues are found in all pectins, incorporated into the main chain in positions 1 ,2.

[0165] Uronic acid molecules bear carboxyl functions. This function gives pectins the capacity for exchanging ions, when they are in COO- form. Divalent ions (in particular calcium) have the capacity of forming ionic bridges between two carboxyl groups of two different pectin molecules.

[0166] In the natural state, a certain proportion of the carboxylic groups are esterified with a methanol group. The natural degree of esterification of a pectin may range between 70% (apple, lemon) and 10% (strawberry) depending on the source used.

[0167] Using pectins with a high degree of esterification, it is possible to hydrolyse the -COOCH₃ groups so as to obtain weakly esterified pectins. During the de esterification process, there is no use or introduction of methanol into the product.

[0168] Depending on the proportion of methylated or non-methylated monomers, the chain is thus more or less acidic and the gelling functionalities are different.

[0169] HM (high-methoxy) pectins are thus defined as having a degree of esterification of greater than 50%, and LM (low-methoxy) pectins are defined as having a degree of esterification of less than 50%.

[0170] In the case of amidated pectins, the -OCH₃ group is substituted with an -NH₂ group.

[0171] Pectins are in particular sold by the company Cargill under the name Unipectine™ or Unipectine Of 600 C SB, by the company CP-Kelco under the name Genu, and by Danisco under the name Grinsted Pectin.

[0172] According to a preferred embodiment, the pectin is chosen from non-methoxy or low-methoxy pectins, and preferably from non-methoxy pectins or pectins comprising a degree of methoxylation of less than 50%.

[0173] In particular, the pectin is present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight of active material, preferably ranging from 0.1 % to 2% by weight of active material, better still ranging from 0.5% to 2% by weight of active material, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0174] According to a particular embodiment, the composition also comprises sucrose, glucose, maltodextrin or a mixture thereof.

[0175] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition also comprises sucrose.

[0176] According to this embodiment, the pectin is combined with the sucrose and use may advantageously be made of the pectin sold by the company Cargill under the name Unipectine Of 600 C SB (INCI name: pectin (and) sucrose).

[0177] Other polysaccharides

[0178] Among the other polysaccharides that may be used according to the invention, mention may also be made of chitin (poly-N-acetyl-D-glucosamine, b(1 ,4)-2-acetamido-2-deoxy-D-glucose), chitosan and derivatives (chitosan-beta- glycerophosphate, carboxymethylchitin, etc.) such as those sold by the company France-Chitine; glycosaminoglycans (GAG) such as hyaluronic acid, chondroitin sulfate, dermatan sulfate, keratan sulfate, and preferably hyaluronic acid; xylans (or arabinoxylans) and derivatives.

[0179] Arabinoxylans are polymers of xylose and arabinose, all grouped under the name "pentosans".

[0180] Xylans are constituted of a main chain of b(1 ,4)-linked D-xylose units on which are found three substituents (Rouau & Thibault, 1987): acid units, a-L- arabinofuranose units, side chains which may contain arabinose, xylose, galactose and glucuronic acid.

[0181] According to this variant, the polysaccharide is preferably hyaluronic acid, or a salt thereof such as the sodium salt (sodium hyaluronate).

[0182] Advantageously, the weight content of polysaccharide of type a (branched homopolysaccharide PSa) is greater than the weight content of polysaccharide of type b (linear polysaccharide PSb, preferably a linear heteropolysaccharide), itself greater than the weight content of polysaccharide of type c (branched heteropolysaccharide PSc), relative to the total weight of the composition, such that their respective contents comply with: PSa>PSb>PSc. [0183] Advantageously, the weight ratio of the polysaccharides of type a and of type c is such that: PSa/PSc is greater than 1 , preferably within the range from 1.5 to 10, preferably from 2 to 8, preferably from 2.5 to 7, preferably from 3 to 6.

[0184] Advantageously, the weight ratio of the polysaccharides of type b and of type c is such that: PSb/PSc is greater than 1 , preferably within the range from 1.5 to 10, preferably from 2 to 8, preferably from 2 to 7, preferably from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 5, preferably from 2 to 4.

[0185] Preferably, the polysaccharide of type a is present in a content ranging from 0.01 % to 5% by weight of active material, preferably from 0.1 % to 2% by weight of active material, preferably from 0.5% to 2%, preferably from 0.6% to 2%, better still from 0.7% to 1 % by weight of active material, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0186] Preferably, the polysaccharide of type b is present in a content ranging from 0.01 % to 5% by weight of active material, preferably from 0.1 % to 2% by weight of active material, preferably from 0.2% to 2%, preferably from 0.4% to 2%, better still from 0.5% to 1 % by weight of active material, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0187] Preferably, the polysaccharide of type c is present in a content ranging from 0.01 % to 5% by weight of active material, preferably from 0.1 % to 2% by weight of active material, preferably from 0.2% to 2%, preferably from 0.2% to 1.5%, better still from 0.2% to 1 % by weight of active material, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0188] Advantageously, the branched homopolysaccharide a is chosen from scleroglucans and amylopectins, preferably scleroglucans.

[0189] Advantageously, the linear polysaccharide b is chosen from: amylose, cellulose, chitin, agar-agar, carrageenan, curdlan, pullulan, hyaluronic acid, alginate, chitosan, glucomannan, gellan gum, pectin; the linear polysaccharide b is preferably chosen from pectins, preferably chosen from non-methoxylated or low-methoxy pectins, and preferably from non-methoxylated pectins or pectins comprising a degree of methoxylation of less than 50%.

[0190] Advantageously, the branched heteropolysaccharide c is chosen from: xanthan gum, guar gum, polysaccharide derived from Tremella (glucuronoxylomannan), galactomannan; the branched heteropolysaccharide c is preferably chosen from xanthan gum.

[0191] This particular combination, and according to the contents of the invention, makes it possible to obtain a natural emulsified gel having a light texture while at the same time having a "consistency" sufficient to be packaged in a jar, comparable to formulations containing synthetic polymers such as crosslinked or non-crosslinked polyacrylic polymers, or else silicones (see examples hereinafter).

[0192] The composition of the invention, by virtue of the combination of these 3 PS gelling agents, is also combined with a low content of pasty compound in order to allow the obtaining of a formulation of cream gel type (having a light take-up) but of sufficient consistency to hold in a jar.

[0193] Pasty compound

[0194] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "pasty compound" is intended to mean a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid/liquid change of state, and comprising at a temperature of 23°C a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

[0195] A pasty compound is, at a temperature of 23°C, in the form of a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. In other words, the starting melting point of the pasty compound is less than 23°C. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound, measured at 23°C, represents from 20% to 97% by weight of the pasty compound. This fraction that is liquid at 23°C more preferentially represents from 25% to 85% and better still from 30% to 60% by weight of the pasty compound.

[0196] The liquid fraction by weight of the pasty compound at 23°C is equal to the ratio of the heat of fusion consumed at 23°C to the heat of fusion of the pasty compound.

[0197] The heat of fusion consumed at 23°C is the amount of energy absorbed by the sample to change from the solid state to the state that it has at 23°C, formed of a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

[0198] The heat of fusion of the pasty compound is the heat consumed by the compound in order to pass from the solid state to the liquid state. The pasty compound is said to be in the solid state when all of its mass is in solid form. The pasty compound is said to be in the liquid state when all of its mass is in liquid form.

[0199] The heat of fusion of the pasty compound is equal to the area under the curve of the thermogram obtained using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), such as the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA Instruments, with a temperature rise of 5°C or 10°C per minute, according to standard ISO 11357-3:1999. The heat of fusion of the pasty compound is the amount of energy required to make the compound change from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J/g.

[0200] The liquid fraction of the pasty compound, measured at 32°C, preferably represents from 40% to 100% by weight of the pasty compound, better still from 50% to 100% by weight of the pasty compound. When the liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32°C is equal to 100%, the temperature of the end of the melting range of the pasty compound is less than or equal to 32°C.

[0201] The liquid fraction of the pasty compound, measured at 32°C, is equal to the ratio of the heat of fusion consumed at 32°C to the heat of fusion of the pasty compound. The heat of fusion consumed at 32°C is calculated in the same way as the heat of fusion consumed at 23°C.

[0202] The pasty compound preferably has a hardness at 20°C ranging from 0.001 to 0.5 MPa, preferably from 0.002 to 0.4 MPa.

[0203] The hardness is measured according to a method of penetration of a probe into a sample of compound and in particular using a texture analyzer (for example the TA-XT2i machine from Rheo) equipped with a stainless-steel cylinder 2 mm in diameter. The hardness measurement is performed at 20°C at the center of five samples. The cylinder is introduced into each sample, the penetration depth being 0.3 mm. The recorded hardness value is that of the maximum peak.

[0204] The pasty compound is chosen from compounds of plant origin. A pasty compound may be obtained via synthesis from starting materials of plant origin.

[0205] The pasty compound may be chosen especially from isomerized jojoba oil such as the trans-isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil manufactured or sold by the company Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Jojoba- 50®, orange wax, for instance the product sold under the reference Orange Peel Wax by the company Koster Keunen, cupuacu butter (Rain Forest RF3410 from the company Beraca Sahara), shorea butter, murumuru butter (Rain Forest RF3710 from the company Beraca Sahara), shea butter, partially hydrogenated olive oil, for instance the compound sold under the reference Beurrolive by the company Soliance, cocoa butter, mango oil, for instance Lipex 203 from the company Aarhuskarlshamn, and mixtures thereof.

[0206] Advantageously, the composition of the invention comprises a pasty compound of plant origin according to a weight content within the range from 0.5% to 5% by weight, preferably from 1 % to 4%, preferably from 1 % to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0207] Preferably, the pasty compound is chosen from isomerized jojoba oil, orange wax, cupuacu butter, shea butter, partially hydrogenated olive oil, cocoa butter, mango butter, shorea butter, murumuru butter, and mixtures thereof. The pasty compound is preferably shea butter.

[0208] Surfactants

[0209] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one surfactant; said surfactant may be of the anionic, nonionic or amphoteric type, but it is preferably of the nonionic and/or anionic type, preferably nonionic, and preferably nonsilicone.

[0210] The amount of surfactant(s) in terms of active material is such that the two phases form and remain stable in the form of an emulsion. This amount should generally be less than or equal to 3%, preferably less than 2%, better still less than 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. It can range for example from 0.1% to 3% by weight of active material, preferably from 0.3% to 2% by weight of active material, preferably from 0.5% to 1.5% by weight of active material, better still from 0.5% to 1% by weight of active material, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0211] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 2% by weight of surfactants relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 1.5% by weight, and preferably does not exceed 1 % by weight.

[0212] Among the nonionic surfactants, mention may be made in particular of:

[0213] - polyoxyethylenated fatty esters of sorbitol such as the product sold under the name Tween 20 by the company ICI;

[0214] - polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols such as the product sold under the name Remcopal 21912 AL by the company Gerland;

[0215] - polyoxyethylenated alkylphenols such as the product sold under the name Triton X 100 by the company Rohm & Haas; [0216] - condensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide such as those sold under the name Synperonic PE by the company ICI and in particular those referenced L 31, L 64, F 38, F 88, L 92, P 103, F 108 and F 127;

[0217] - fatty acid esters of glycerol or of polyglycerol, for instance glyceryl isostearate, poly(3-glyceryl) diisostearate or glyceryl caprylate; [0218] - ethers of polyethylene glycol and/or of polypropylene glycol and of glycerol, such as glycereth-7, glycereth-26 and PPG-24 glycereth-24;

[0219] - esters derived from the reaction a) of fatty acids and b) of polyethylene glycol and/or polypropylene glycol glycerol ethers, for instance glycereth-2 cocoate or glycereth-25 PCA isostearate; [0220] - fatty acid esters of sucrose other than those that are defined previously, comprising from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular 14 to 20 carbon atoms, said esters possibly comprising from 2 to 5 fatty chains, for instance sucrose distearate or sucrose tristearate;

[0221] - alkyl polyglucosides, preferably those containing an alkyl group comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and containing a hydrophilic (glucoside) group preferably comprising from 1.2 to 3 saccharide units. Examples that may be mentioned include decylglucoside (Alkyl- C9/C11 -polyglucoside (1.4)), for instance the product sold under the name Mydol 10® by the company Kao Chemicals, the product sold under the name Plantaren 2000 UP® by the company Cognis, and the product sold under the name Oramix

NS 10® by the company SEPPIC; caprylyl/capryl glucoside, for instance the product sold under the name Oramix CG 110® by the company SEPPIC; laurylglucoside, for instance the products sold under the names Plantaren 1200 N® and Plantacare 1200® by the company Cognis; cocoglucoside, for instance the product sold under the name Plantacare 818/UP® by the company Cognis; cetostearyl glucoside optionally as a mixture with cetostearyl alcohol, sold, for example, under the name Montanov 68 by the company SEPPIC, under the name Tego-Care CG90 by the company Goldschmidt and under the name Emulgade KE3302 by the company Henkel; arachidyl glucoside, for example in the form of the mixture of arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol and arachidyl glucoside, sold under the name Montanov 202 by the company SEPPIC; cocoylethylglucoside, for example in the form of the mixture (35/65) with cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, sold under the name Montanov 82 by the company SEPPIC; and mixtures thereof;

[0222] - polymeric emulsifiers such as hydrophobic -modified inulins, for example Inutec SP1 sold by the company Beneo Bio-Based Chemicals.

[0223] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a nonsilicone, nonionic surfactant chosen from:

[0224] - polyoxyethylenated C8-C30 fatty alcohols, in particular containing from 2 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, [0225] - C₈-C₃₀ fatty alcohol ethers of a sugar, in particular (Cs-C₃o)alkyl

(poly)glucosides,

[0226] - ethers of polyethylene glycol, especially containing from 20 to 120 ethylene oxide units, and of a C8-C30 fatty acid ester of glucose or of methylglucose,

[0227] - C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan, [0228] - polyoxyethylenated C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan, especially containing from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide,

[0229] - polyoxyethylenated C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan, especially containing from 2 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide,

[0230] - C8-C30 fatty acid monoesters or diesters of glycerol, [0231] - polyglycerolated C8-C30 fatty acid esters, especially containing from 2 to 16 mol of glycerol, [0232] - C₈-C₃₀ fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol, especially containing from 2 to 200 ethylene oxide units,

[0233] - C8-C30 fatty acid esters of glucose or of (Ci-C₂)alkylglucose or of sucrose,

[0234] - and mixtures thereof.

[0235] Among the anionic surfactants, mention may be made in particular of:

[0236] - alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates and salts thereof, especially the sodium salts thereof, for instance the mixture of sodium laureth sulfate/magnesium laureth sulfate/sodium laureth-8 sulfate/magnesium laureth-8 sulfate, sold under the name Texapon ASV by the company Henkel; sodium lauryl ether sulfate (70/30 C12-14) (2.2 EO) sold under the names Sipon AOS 225 or Texapon N702 Pate by the company Henkel, ammonium lauryl ether sulfate (70/30 C12-14) (3 EO) sold under the name Sipon LEA 370 by the company Henkel; the ammonium (C12-C14) alkyl ether (9 EO) sulfate sold under the name Rhodapex AB/20 by the company Rhodia Chimie;

[0237] - alkyl sulfoacetates, such as that sold under the name Lathanol LAL by the company Stepan;

[0238] - alkyl sulfosuccinates, for example oxyethylenated (3 EO) lauryl alcohol monosulfosuccinate (70/30 C12/C14) sold under the names Setacin 103 Special and Rewopol SB-FA 30 K 4 by the company Witco, the disodium salt of a C12-C14 alkyl hemisulfosuccinate, sold under the name Setacin F Special Paste by the company Zschimmer Schwarz, the oxyethylenated (2 EO) disodium oleamidosulfosuccinate sold under the name Standapol SH 135 by the company Henkel, the oxyethylenated (5 EO) laurylamide monosulfosuccinate sold under the name Lebon A-5000 by the company Sanyo, the oxyethylenated (10 EO) disodium salt of lauryl citrate monosulfosuccinate sold under the name Rewopol SB CS 50 by the company Witco, and the disodium salt of ricinoleic acid monoethanolamide monosulfosuccinate sold under the name Rewoderm S 1333 by the company Witco;

[0239] - polypeptides that are obtained, for example, by condensation of a fatty chain onto the amino acids of cereals and especially of wheat and oat, for instance the potassium salt of hydrolyzed lauroyl wheat protein, sold under the name Aminofoam W OR by the company Croda, the triethanolamine salt of hydrolyzed cocoyl soybean protein, sold under the name May-Tein SY by the company Maybrook, the sodium salt of lauroyl oat amino acids, sold under the name Proteol Oat by the company SEPPIC, collagen hydrolysate grafted onto coconut fatty acid, sold under the name Geliderm 3000 by the company Deutsche Gelatine, and soybean proteins acylated with hydrogenated coconut acids, sold under the name Proteol VS 22 by the company SEPPIC;

[0240] - amino acid derivatives, for example among sarcosinates and especially acylsarcosinates such as the sodium lauroyl sarcosinate sold under the name Sarkosyl NL 97 by the company Ciba or sold under the name Oramix L 30 by the company SEPPIC, sodium myristoyl sarcosinate, sold under the name Nikkol Sarcosinate MN by the company Nikkol, sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate, sold under the name Nikkol Sarcosinate PN by the company Nikkol; alaninates, such as the sodium N-lauroyl-N-methylamidopropionate sold under the name Sodium Nikkol Alaninate LN 30 by the company Nikkol or sold under the name Alanone ALE by the company Kawaken, and the N-lauroyl-N-methylalanine triethanolamine, sold under the name Alanone ALTA by the company Kawaken; N-acylglutamates, such as the triethanolamine monococoylglutamate sold under the name Acylglutamate CT-12 by the company Ajinomoto, and the triethanolamine lauroylglutamate sold under the name Acylglutamate LT-12 by the company Ajinomoto; aspartates, such as the mixture of triethanolamine N-lauroylaspartate and triethanolamine N-myristoylaspartate, sold under the name Asparack LM- TS2 by the company Mitsubishi; glycine derivatives, such as sodium N- cocoylglycinate and potassium N-cocoylglycinate, such as the products sold under the names Amilite GCS-12 and Amilite GCK-12 by the company Ajinomoto;

[0241] - sulfonates, for example, the a-olefinsulfonates, such as the sodium a- olefinsulfonate (Cu-C-ie), sold under the name Bio-Terge AS-40 by the company Stepan, sold under the names Witconate AOS Protege and Sulframine AOS PH 12 by the company Witco or sold under the name Bio-Terge AS-40 CG by the company Stepan, secondary sodium olefinsulfonate, sold under the name Hostapur SAS 30 by the company Clariant; or linear alkylarylsulfonates, such as the sodium xylenesulfonate sold under the names Manrosol SXS30, Manrosol SXS40 and Manrosol SXS93 by the company Manro; [0242] - isethionates, especially acylisethionates, such as sodium cocoylisethionate, such as the product sold under the name Jordapon Cl P by the company Jordan.

[0243] Among the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, mention may be made in particular of:

[0244] - alkylamido alkylamine derivatives such as N-disodium N-cocoyl-N- carboxymethoxyethyl-N-carboxymethylethylenediamine (CTFA name: Disodium cocoamphodiacetate) sold as an aqueous saline solution under the name Miranol C2M Cone NP by the company Rhodia Chimie; N-sodium N-cocoyl-N- hydroxyethyl-N-carboxymethylethylenediamine (CTFA name: sodium cocam phoacetate) and the mixture of coconut acid ethanolamides (CTFA name: Cocamide DEA);

[0245] - betaines, for instance cocoylbetaine, such as the product sold under the name Dehyton AB-30 by the company Flenkel, laurylbetaine, such as the product sold under the name Genagen KB by the company Clariant, oxyethylenated (10 EO) laurylbetaine, such as the product sold under the name Lauryl Ether (10 EO) Betaine by the company Shin Nihon Rica, or oxyethylenated (10 EO) stearylbetaine, such as the product sold under the name Stearyl Ether (10 EO) Betaine by the company Shin Nihon Rica;

[0246] - alkylamidopropylbetaines and derivatives thereof, for instance the cocamidopropylbetaine sold under the name Lebon 2000 FIG by the company Sanyo, or sold under the name Empigen BB by the company Albright & Wilson, the lauramidopropylbetaine sold under the name Rewoteric AMB12P by the company Witco, such as cocamidopropylbetaine, for instance the products sold under the name Tego Betaine by the company Goldschmidt;

[0247] - imidazoline derivatives such as the product sold under the name Chimexane FID by the company Chimex.

[0248] Advantageously, the composition of the invention comprises a nonsilicone, nonionic surfactant with an FILB value from 8.0 to 14.0, preferably from 9.0 to 13.5, and preferably from 10.0 to 13.0.

[0249] Advantageously, the nonsilicone, nonionic surfactant is present in a content within the range from 0.1 % to 3% by weight of active material, preferably from 0.3% to 2% by weight of active material, preferably from 0.5% to 1.5% by weight of active material, better still from 0.5% to 1 % by weight of active material, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0250] OMs

[0251] The composition according to the invention advantageously comprises at least one oil.

[0252] The term "oils" is intended to mean fatty substances that are liquid at ambient temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure.

[0253] As oils that may be used in the composition of the invention, examples that may be mentioned include:

[0254] - hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as squalane, liquid triglycerides of fatty acids comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, jojoba oil, babassu oil, sunflower oil, olive oil, coconut oil, Brazil nut oil, marula oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, linseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia nut oil, arara oil, coriander oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, and shea butter oil;

[0255] - synthetic esters and ethers, in particular of fatty acids and/or alcohols, for instance the oils of formulae R1COOR2 and R10R2 wherein R1CO represents a fatty acid residue or R1 represents a fatty alcohol residue containing from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a branched or unbranched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance Purcellin oil, 2- octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate or isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters, for instance isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate or triisocetyl citrate; fatty alcohol heptanoates, octanoates or decanoates; polyol esters, for instance propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters, for instance pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; - mixtures thereof.

[0256] Mention may also be made of the following oils: [0257] - esters derived from the reaction of at least one fatty acid containing at least 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 26 carbon atoms, better still from 6 to 20 carbon atoms and even better still from 6 to 16 carbon atoms, and of at least one alcohol comprising from 1 to 17 carbon atoms and better still from 3 to 15 carbon atoms; mention may in particular be made of isopropyl myristate, such as the products sold under the name Palmester 1510 by the company KLK Oleo, under the name Lexol IPM-NF by the company Index Chemical Company or else under the name Isopropyl Myristate by the company Cognis (BASF), isopropyl isostearate such as the product sold under the name Radia 7739 by the company Oleon, isopropyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl caprate/caprylate (or octyl caprate/caprylate), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, hexyl laurate, lactic acid esters of fatty alcohols comprising 12 or 13 carbon atoms, and dicaprylyl carbonate, such as the product sold under the name Cetiol CC by the company Cognis,

[0258] - fatty alcohol ethers comprising from 6 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 12, and even more preferentially from 8 to 10.

[0259] These ethers may be obtained from two different fatty alcohols or from two identical fatty alcohols. Preferably, they are obtained from two identical fatty alcohols such as capryl alcohol (also known as 1-octanol or n-octanol). The corresponding ether is then dicaprylyl ether, such as the product sold under the name Cetiol OE by the company Cognis.

[0260] - glycerol ethers comprising from 6 to 12 carbon atoms, for instance the 2- ethylhexyl ether of glycerol (INCI name: ethylhexyl glycerol) such as Sensiva SC 50 from the company Schulke & Mayr GmbFI.

[0261] Mention may be made in particular of the mixture of esters of caprylic/capric acids and of C12-C18 fatty alcohols such as coco-caprylate/caprate sold under the name Cetiol LC by the company Cognis or under the name Dub 810 by the company Stearineries Dubois.

[0262] - volatile linear alkanes, advantageously of plant origin, comprising from 7 to 17 carbon atoms, in particular from 9 to 15 carbon atoms and more particularly from 11 to 13 carbon atoms. [0263] As examples of volatile linear alkanes that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made of those described in patent application WO 2007/068371 from the company Cognis.

[0264] As an example of a volatile linear alkane that is suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made of n-nonane (C9), n-decane (C10), n-undecane (C11 ), n-dodecane (C12), n-tridecane (C13), n-tetradecane (Cu), n-pentadecane (C15), n-hexadecane (Cie) and n-heptadecane (C17), and mixtures thereof. According to a particularly preferred embodiment, use will be made of a mixture of undecane (Cu) and of tridecane (C13) such as the product sold under the reference Cetiol UT by the company Cognis. Mention may also be made of n- dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (Cu) such as those sold by Sasol under the references, respectively, Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97, and also mixtures thereof.

[0265] - polyesters obtained by condensation of a dimer and/or trimer of an unsaturated fatty acid and of a diol, for instance the polyesters of dilinoleic acid and of a diol sold by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast and in particular the polymer bearing the INCI name dilinoleic acid/propanediol copolymer; and mixtures thereof.

[0266] Use may also be made of Guerbet alcohols or of Guerbet alcohol derivatives, for instance esters of Guerbet alcohols. Guerbet alcohols are obtained by converting an aliphatic primary alcohol into a beta-alkylenated alcohol dimer via the following chemical reaction:

[Chem. 1]

2

[0267] This reaction requires the presence of a catalyst such as alkali metal hydroxides or alkali metal alkoxides, such as Raney nickel, and high temperatures. [0268] As Guerbet alcohols or Guerbet alcohol derivatives, mention may be made especially of octyldodecanol and octyldodecanol esters such as octyldodecyl myristate. Mention may be made in particular of octyldodecanol, such as the product sold under the name Eutanol G by the company Cognis (BASF) and the octyldodecyl myristate sold under the name Dub Mod by the company Gattefosse.

[0269] The composition according to the invention may have a total content of oils ranging from 1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 1% to 40% by weight, preferably from 1 % to 30% by weight, better still from 1 % to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0270] Advantageously, the fatty phase of the composition comprises at least one oil chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, preferably triglycerides, Guerbet alcohol derivatives, preferably Guerbet alcohols and esters of a fatty acid and of a Guerbet alcohol, and linear alkanes.

[0271] According to one particular embodiment, the composition comprises from 1% to 30% by weight of at least one oil chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, preferably triglycerides, Guerbet alcohol derivatives, preferably Guerbet alcohols and esters of a fatty acid and of a Guerbet alcohol, and linear alkanes.

[0272] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises from 1% to 30%, preferably from 1% to 20% by weight of at least one oil chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, preferably triglycerides, and Guerbet alcohol derivatives, preferably Guerbet alcohols and esters of a fatty acid and of a Guerbet alcohol, and optionally from 1 % to 20% by weight, preferably from 5% to 10% by weight of at least one oil chosen from linear alkanes.

[0273] Advantageously, the composition of the invention contains less than 5%, preferably less than 4%, preferably less than 3%, preferably less than 2%, preferably less than 1%, preferably less than 0.5%, preferably less than 0.1%, by weight of acrylic polymers and/or of silicones; it preferably does not contain any acrylic polymers and/or silicones. [0274] Advantageously, the composition of the invention comprises at least 65% by weight of aqueous phase, preferably at least 65% of water, preferably at least 68% of water, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0275] Advantageously, the composition of the invention is in the form of an O/W emulsion, and preferably is of cream gel type.

[0276] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention also comprises at least one cosmetic active agent chosen from: antiwrinkle agents, UV-screening agents, vitamins, in particular B3, B8, B12 and B9, moisturizers, desquamating agents, agents for improving the barrier function, depigmenting agents, antioxidants, dermo-decontracting agents or dermo-relaxing agents, antiglycation agents, agents for stimulating the synthesis of dermal and/or epidermal macromolecules and/or for preventing their degradation, agents for stimulating fibroblast or keratinocyte proliferation and/or keratinocyte differentiation, agents for promoting the maturation of the horny envelope, NO-synthase inhibitors, peripheral benzodiazepine receptor (PBR) antagonists, agents for increasing the activity of the sebaceous gland, agents stimulating the energy metabolism of cells, and calmatives.

[0277] Preferably, the composition according to the invention also comprises at least one cosmetic active agent chosen from urea and derivatives thereof; proxylane; ceramides; amino acids; vitamins and provitamins, antioxidant compounds, such as baicalein, polydatin, mangiferin, skin lightening agents, such as tyrosine kinase inhibitors; retinol and derivatives thereof.

[0278] Preferably, the composition according to the invention has a viscosity of at least 5 DU M3, preferably within the range from 5 DU M3 to 200 DU M3, preferably from 15 to 150 DU M3, preferably from 20 to 150 DU M3.

[0279] The viscosity measurement is carried out on a Rheomat at 25°C, using a Rheomat RM 200 viscometer equipped with a No. 3 spindle (M3), the measurement being carried out after 10 minutes of rotation of the spindle in the product (after which time stabilization of the viscosity and of the speed of rotation of the spindle are observed), at a shear rate of 200 s ¹. A measurement in DU (Deviation Units) is obtained according to the measurement protocol detailed hereinafter. [0280] The viscosity of the composition according to the invention is preferably greater than 15 DU M3, in particular greater than 20 DU M3, preferably greater than 40 DU M3, thereby allowing the formulation to have a texture with a consistency sufficient for it to be provided in jar form.

[0281] The composition according to the invention is not limited to the embodiments which have just been described.

[0282] Protocol for measuring the parameters cited and measured in the present description of the invention:

[0283] Protocol for measuring the viscosity using a Rheomat with a spindle No. 3:

[0284] The following equipment is used: Thermostatic bath; Rheomat 200 viscometer; and measuring system MS-r 3 (body, support and cup).

[0285] The measurement is taken with an assembly: product to be analyzed - cup - measuring body. This assembly is at the setpoint temperature of 25°C.

[0286] An adjustment of the zero is performed on the Rheomat.

[0287] Filling of the cup: The volume of substance introduced into the cup of the spindle No. 3 is up to the overflow, i.e. 25 ml.

[0288] Measurement: the support of the system and the selected measuring body are placed on the device, then the measuring cup is adjusted and, finally, the device is started with the following programming: spindle rotation speed at 200 revolutions/min; measuring system: 75.

[0289] After 10 minutes of rotation of the measuring body, the measurement result is read: A formulation is said to be gelled if and only if, in the protocol described, it has a viscosity of greater than or equal to 5 DU M3.

[0290] The examples which follow serve to illustrate the present invention without however limiting it.

Examples

[0291] The amounts are given as weight percentages relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0292] Protocol for producing the formulations: [0293] For the examples according to the invention (heating required): [0294] [Table 1]

0295] Process:

[0296] add A1 0.1 % of aloe extract to 19.9% of water and mix in the main tank until a homogeneous mixture is obtained at 25-30°C

[0297] : add the components of phase A2 (aqueous phase) and B (fatty phase) to A1 then heat the whole mixture to 75°C and mix until a homogeneous (fluid) emulsion is obtained

[0298] : cool while adding the water of phase C and mix until a homogeneous mixture is obtained

[0299] : at 40-45°C, introduce the gelling agents (polysaccharides) (phase D) and disperse (vigorous stirring) until a homogeneous grain-free medium is obtained

[0300] : at T< 40°C, add the components of phase E (heat-sensitive MPs = active agents, fragrance) [0301] : add F (filler) while cooling and mixing until a homogeneous grain-free mixture is obtained [0302] : at Tambient (25-30°C), add phase G (alcohol) and homogenize

[0303] For the formulations of the comparatives Cp1 and Cp2 hereafter, the same protocol is used, but under “cold conditions”:

[0304] [Table 2]

0305] (1): add A (aqueous phase) and mix in the main tank until a homogeneous mixture is obtained at 25-30°C

[0306] (2): add B (gelling agents) at 25-30°C and disperse (vigorous stirring) until a homogeneous grain-free medium is obtained

[0307] (3): add the components of phase C (Fatty substances, fragrance) [0308] (4): add phase D (pH adjuster) and homogenize

[0309] (5): add the alcohol (E) and homogenize

[0310] Comparison of formulations according to the invention (Ex1 to Ex6) and outside the invention (Cp1 and Cp2)

[0311] In table 3 below, the fatty phases, thickeners and surfactants are compared for the formulations according to the invention (Ex1 to Ex6) and outside the invention (Cp1 and Cp2). [0312] The formulation Cp1 (outside the invention) is a gel emulsified with AMPS (synthetic polymer) and with 8% of fatty phase composed of silicones and (non natural) synthetic fatty substances.

[0313] The formulation Cp2 (outside the invention) replaces the silicones in the fatty phase with natural fatty substances (replacement of the 8% of silicone fatty phase with 2% of shea butter and 6% of coco caprylate/caprate). The formulation Cp2 still contains the AMPS.

[0314] The formulations of examples Ex1 to Ex6 according to the invention do not contain any AMPS synthetic polymer, but a combination of 3 polysaccharides. These formulations Ex1 to Ex6 according to the invention contain essentially ingredients of natural origin. Various nonsilicone, nonionic surfactants are compared.

[0315] [Table 3]

0316] Viscosity

[0317] It is measured at 25°C on a Rheomat, according to the protocol described above. Several spindles may be used depending on the viscosity of the liquor. Choose the suitable spindle (value of between 15 and 85 DU, otherwise change the spindle M1: lotion, M2: milk, fluid, M3: cream, thick milk, M4: thick cream). Measurements in DU: deviation units, with a standard deviation ± 5 DU. The result is expressed in the form of an integer, in table 3.

[0318] The compositions obtained above all have a viscosity of greater than 40 du.

[0319] They are in the form of a product with a consistency thick enough to be provided in jar form. The cream gel is smooth, shiny and opaque.

[0320] The formulations are also stable: they do not exhibit any change in viscosity, nor in pH, nor any change in appearance under a microscope, nor any change in these parameters in terms of accelerated stabilities after 2 months at 45°C. [0321 ] Sensory analysis

[0322] A sensory analysis made it possible to characterize the consistency of the product, the flexibility and the take-up under the finger.

[0323] A panel of 15 experts trained in the description of care products evaluates the formulation monadically. The products are packaged in standard transparent 15 ml jars and coded. During the same session, the samples are presented in a random order for each judge. The experts have skin which is prone to being oily to prone to being dry. 30 descriptors are evaluated in 6 sequences: appearance of the product in the jar, gather, application by hand, application on the face and 2 min after application.

[0324] The formulations are evaluated on a system of grading on a scale of 0 to 15 (0 corresponding to weak and 15 to strong) before application (visual appearance, take-up of the product), during application on various areas and after application (skin finish): [0325] [Table 4]

A o

A o f

A o

V ( a o a

326] Ultimately, the composition of the invention (in this case Ex1) mimics textural and sensory characteristics typically obtained for formulations based on silicones and on acrylic polymers (AMPS polymers), and has sensory properties that are at least equivalent, or even better, as demonstrated by the sensory test provided in the examples above. [0327] Comparison of various polysaccharide contents, without surfactant (examples 7 to 10 and 12) or with surfactant

[0328] Evaluation of the consistency (viscosity): see table 5 below [0329] [Table 5]

0330] The compositions of examples 7 to 10 and 12 do not contain surfactants. The compositions of examples 9 to 11 do not contain pectin, the latter being replaced with cellulose. The weight content of polysaccharide of type a (Sclerotium gum) is greater than the weight content of polysaccharide of type b (pectin) in the compositions of examples 7 and 8. On the contrary, the weight content of polysaccharide of type a (Sclerotium gum) is smaller than the weight content of polysaccharide of type b (pectin or cellulose) in the compositions of examples 9 to 12.

[0331] The viscosities obtained are greater than 15 DU, or even greater than 20 DU in the case of example 8 which contains 0.6% of pectin by weight of active material, relative to the total weight of the composition. [0332] The formulations of examples 7 to 11 are in the form of a product with a consistency thick enough to be provided in jar form. The formulation of Cp12 is not consistent enough for in-jar hold. The cream gel is smooth, shiny and opaque, and the texture of the formulations of Examples 7 and 8 according to the invention is homogeneous : a texture of “emulsified gel” is obtained even without any surfactant in the formulations. The texture of the formulations of comparative examples Cp9, Cp10 and Cp12 is more jelly-like. All the formulations of comparative examples Cp9 to Cp12 show a notable trembling aspect. The trembling aspect characterizes the elasticity of the product, its ability to spring back to its original place after tapping the jar (jelly type). A texture of “emulsified gel” was not obtained in the cases Cp9 to Cp12, as it is not homogeneous but more jelly-like, and for Cp9 to Cp11 also slightly grainy under the fingers.

[0333] The formulations of the present invention are also stable: they do not exhibit any change in viscosity, nor in pH, nor any change in appearance under a microscope, nor any change in these parameters in terms of accelerated stabilities after 2 months at 45°C. On the contrary, the formulation of comparative example Cp12 was found to be unstable under the same conditions (after 2 months at 45°C). To render this comparative formulation stable, it was necessary to use more than 3% surfactant : typically “Cp12.2” was prepared containing the same formulation as Cp12 but with addition of 3,5% of surfactant glyceryl stearate citrate (instead of 3,5% water of the composition of Cp12 without surfactant). In addition the formulation of Cp12.2 is still not consistent enough for in-jar hold.

[0334] The combination of three types of particular polysaccharides in specific ratios, in particular scleroglucan, pectin and xanthan, in a formulation comprising at least 65% of aqueous phase, combined with a natural fatty phase containing a pasty compound of plant origin, such as shea butter, without surfactant, or with a very low content (0.5%) of nonsilicone, nonionic surfactant, typically the citric ester of glyceryl stearate, made it possible to obtain a composition of cream gel type allying naturality, in-jar consistency and lightness on take-up with the finger and a sensory aspect of glide and non-greasiness when applied to the skin.

[0335] In particular, the combination according to the invention of 3 types of polysaccharides, in particular scleroglucan, pectin and xanthan, gives an O/W emulsion of cream gel type which has a fresh and gliding feel on application, and makes it possible to obtain a quick-break effect that has been very difficult to obtain up until now using natural ingredients, with a soft finish on the skin.

Claims

[Claim 1] A cosmetic composition comprising

- at least three types of polysaccharides (PS): a- A branched homopolysaccharide (PSa), such as a scleroglucan; b- A linear polysaccharide (PSb), preferably a linear heteropolysaccharide, such as a pectin; and c- A branched heteropolysaccharide (PSc), such as a xanthan gum;

- at least one pasty compound of plant origin, and

- water; wherein the weight content of polysaccharide of type a is greater than the weight content of polysaccharide of type b, itself greater than the weight content of polysaccharide of type c, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[Claim 2] The composition as claimed in claim 1 , characterized in that it comprises less than 2% by weight of surfactants relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 1.5% by weight, and preferably the content of surfactants does not exceed 1 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[Claim 3] The composition as claimed in either one of claims 1 and 2, wherein the weight ratio of the polysaccharides of type a and of type c is such that: PSa/PSc is greater than 1 , preferably within the range from 1.5 to 10, preferably from 2 to 8, preferably from 2.5 to 7, preferably from 3 to 6.

[Claim 4] The composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the weight ratio of the polysaccharides of type b and of type c is such that: PSb/PSc is greater than 1 , preferably within the range from 1.5 to 10, preferably from 2 to 8, preferably from 2 to 7, preferably from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 5, preferably from 2 to 4.

[Claim 5] The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polysaccharide of type a is present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight of active material, preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight of active material, preferably from 0.5% to 2%, preferably from 0.

6% to 2%, better still from 0.7% to 1 % by weight of active material, relative to the total weight of the composition. [Claim 6] The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polysaccharide of type b is present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight of active material, preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight of active material, preferably from 0.2% to 2%, preferably from 0.4% to 2%, better still from 0.5% to 1 % by weight of active material, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[Claim 7] The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polysaccharide of type c is present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight of active material, preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight of active material, preferably from 0.2% to 2%, preferably from 0.2% to 1.5%, better still from 0.2% to 1 % by weight of active material, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[Claim 8] The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the branched homopolysaccharide a is chosen from scleroglucans and amylopectins, preferably scleroglucans.

[Claim 9] The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the linear polysaccharide b is chosen from: amylose, cellulose, chitin, agar-agar, carrageenan, curdlan, pullulan, hyaluronic acid, alginate, chitosan, glucomannan, gellan gum, pectin; the linear polysaccharide b is preferably chosen from pectins, preferably chosen from non-methoxylated or low-methoxy pectins, and preferably from non- methoxylated pectins or pectins comprising a degree of methoxylation of less than 50%.

[Claim 10] The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the branched heteropolysaccharide c is chosen from: xanthan gum, guar gum, polysaccharide derived from Tremella (glucuronoxylomannan), galactomannan; the branched heteropolysaccharide c is preferably chosen from xanthan gum.

[Claim 11 ] The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also comprises a nonsilicone, nonionic surfactant with an HLB value from 8.0 to 14.0, preferably from 9.0 to 13.5, and preferably from 10.0 to 13.0.

[Claim 12] The composition as claimed in the preceding claim, characterized in that the nonsilicone, nonionic surfactant is chosen from: - polyoxyethylenated C8-C30 fatty alcohols, in particular containing from 2 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide,

- C₈-C₃₀ fatty alcohol ethers of a sugar, in particular (C₈-C₃o)alkyl (poly)glucosides,

- ethers of polyethylene glycol, especially containing from 20 to 120 ethylene oxide units, and of a C8-C30 fatty acid ester of glucose or of methylglucose,

- C₈-C₃₀ fatty acid esters of sorbitan,

- polyoxyethylenated C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan, especially containing from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide,

- polyoxyethylenated C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan, especially containing from 2 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide,

- C₈-C₃₀ fatty acid monoesters or diesters of glycerol,

- polyglycerolated C8-C30 fatty acid esters, especially containing from 2 to 16 mol of glycerol,

- C₈-C₃₀ fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol, especially containing from 2 to 200 ethylene oxide units,

- C₈-C₃₀ fatty acid esters of glucose or of (Ci-C₂)alkylglucose or of sucrose,

- and mixtures thereof.

[Claim 13] The composition as claimed in the preceding claim, characterized in that the nonsilicone, nonionic surfactant is present in a content within the range from 0.1 % to 3% by weight of active material, preferably from 0.3% to 2% by weight of active material, preferably from 0.5% to 1.5% by weight of active material, better still from 0.5% to 1 % by weight of active material, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[Claim 14] The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a pasty compound of plant origin according to a weight content within the range from 0.5% to 5% by weight, preferably from 1% to 4%, preferably from 1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[Claim 15] The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the pasty compound(s) are lipophilic fatty compounds with a reversible solid/liquid change of state, and comprising, at a temperature of 23°C, a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

[Claim 16] The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the pasty compound comprises a liquid fraction, measured at 23°C, representing from 20% to 97% by weight of the pasty compound.

[Claim 17] The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the pasty compound is chosen from isomerized jojoba oil, orange wax, cupuacu butter, shea butter, partially hydrogenated olive oil, cocoa butter, mango butter, shorea butter, murumuru butter, and mixtures thereof; it preferably is shea butter.

[Claim 18] The composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 17, wherein the fatty phase comprises at least one oil, preferably chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin such as triglycerides, Guerbet alcohol derivatives, such as Guerbet alcohols and esters of a fatty acid and of a Guerbet alcohol, and linear alkanes.

[Claim 19] The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains less than 5%, preferably less than 4%, preferably less than 3%, preferably less than 2%, preferably less than 1%, preferably less than 0.5%, preferably less than 0.1%, by weight of acrylic polymers and/or of silicones; it preferably does not contain any acrylic polymers and/or silicones.

[Claim 20] The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least 65% by weight of aqueous phase, preferably at least 65% of water, preferably at least 68% of water, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[Claim 21 ] The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of an O/W emulsion, and preferably is of cream gel type.

[Claim 22] The use, as a thickener and/or gelling agent in a cosmetic and/or dermatological composition, of at least three types of polysaccharides as defined in claims 1 to 10, for improving the consistency of the composition, in particular in a jar, while at the same time making it lighter and/or less tacky when taken up with the finger.

[Claim 23] A non-therapeutic process for the cosmetic treatment of a keratin material, in particular the skin and/or the hair, and more particularly the skin, comprising a step of applying to said keratin material at least one layer of cosmetic composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 21.