WO2021237697A1

WO2021237697A1 - Composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials

Info

Publication number: WO2021237697A1
Application number: PCT/CN2020/093366
Authority: WO
Inventors: Yici ZHAO; Xiuxia Wang
Original assignee: LOreal SA
Current assignee: LOreal SA
Priority date: 2020-05-29
Filing date: 2020-05-29
Publication date: 2021-12-02
Anticipated expiration: 2022-11-29
Also published as: FR3110840B1; FR3110840A1; CN115551465B; CN115551465A

Abstract

A composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprises in an aqueous phase, relative to the total weight of the composition (i) from 0.01 wt. % to 4 wt. % of at least one white particles having a volume average size (D50) of less than 25μm, (ii) from 0.01 wt. % to 4 wt. % of at least one yellow pearlescent pigment having a volume average size (D50) of less than 25μm, and (iii) from 0.01 wt. % to 2 wt. % of at least one red pearlescent pigment having a volume average size (D50) of less than 25μm. A method for caring for and/or making up keratin materials comprises application to the keratin materials of the composition.

Description

COMPOSITION FOR CARING FOR AND/OR MAKING UP KERATIN MATERIALS

TECHNICAL FIELD

The present invention relates to a composition. In particular, the present invention relates to a composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin.

BACKGROUND ART

Skin produces less collagen and elastin as it ages. For example, after the age of twenty, a person produces about 1 percent less collagen in the skin each year. As a result, the skin becomes thinner and more fragile. Inevitably, wrinkles, crow’s feet, age-spots, eye bags, dark circles, skin dyschromia, and the like, begin to form.

For example, there are in particular in many individuals more or less extensive regions of very varying shapes which are relatively delimited or of gradual intensity, that have a more red, more bluish or purlish, more brown or more grey intrinsic hue than the complexion of the adjacent regions, the cheekbones or the temples, or appear darker than the regions that surround them. This is what contributes to the notion of skin dyschromia, in particular dark circles.

Consumers often wish to improve the appearance of such age-related skin imperfections, preferably with instantaneous results.

The development of formulations dedicated to caring for the skin is permanent. A wide variety of compositions have been used to care for and/or make up the skin, for example, to correct skin dyschromia and to brighten the complexion.

The prior art describes the use of composite platelet pigments (for example: mica/titanium, mica/titanium/iron oxide, mica/titanium/silica, mica/titanium/tin, etc) and of transparent pigments in compositions for correcting skin dyschromia (WO2004/045524) ; or the use of interference pigments (WO01/51017, US 5 690 916) and/or of metal oxides (US2005079190) or composite particles containing metal oxides (EP 1785 129) for correcting dyschromia.

However, the prior art compositions are not entirely satisfactory in terms of effect, such as correct skin dyschromia, or in terms of sensory, such as looking natural after application.

Therefore, there remains the need to develop a specific composition for care for and/or make up the skin, which makes it possible by itself to attain a significant decrease in the visibility of the skin dyschromia while at the same time maintaining a natural appearance.

More specific, there remains the need to develop a specific composition for care for and/or making up the skin around the eyes, which makes it possible to attain a significant decrease in the visibility of the dark circles, especially of consumers aged from 20 to 40, while maintaining a natural appearance.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The inventors have now discovered that it is possible to formulate such compositions having the desired properties as described above.

Thus, according to a first aspect, the present invention provides a composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising in an aqueous phase, relative to the total weight of the composition:

(i) from 0.01 wt. %to 4 wt. %of at least one white particles having a volume average size (D50) of less than 25 μm,

(ii) from 0.01 wt. %to 4 wt. %of at least one yellow pearlescent pigment having a volume average size (D50) of less than 25 μm, and

(iii) from 0.01 wt. %to 2 wt. %of at least one red pearlescent pigment having a volume average size (D50) of less than 25 μm.

The composition of the present invention is suitable for typical application to keratin materials, in particular the skin, especially, the skin of face and/or the skin around the eyes, so as to cover wrinkles, crow’s feet, age-spots, eye bags, and/or dark circles.

Especially, the composition of the present invention can be applied to the skin around the eyes to cover blue/green type dark circles, which often appears on the skin around the eyes of consumers aged from 20 to 40.

Thus, according to a second aspect, the present invention provides a method for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising application to the keratin materials of the composition according to the present invention.

Upon application of the composition of the present invention, the instant effect can be perceived by consumers, meanwhile the appearance looks natural.

Other features, elements, characteristics and advantages of the present invention will be more apparent from the following detailed description of preferred embodiments of the present invention.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES

The present invention can be better understood from reading the following detailed description, and with reference to the attached drawing, in which:

FIG. 1 shows the results of coverage on eyelid and dark circle visibility upon application of the compositions of invention formulas (Inv. ) 1, 2 and 4 as well as comparative formula (Comp. ) 1.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

In that which follows and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included within this range, in particular in the expressions "between… and" and "from... to... " .

Moreover, the expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more" .

Throughout the instant application, the term “comprising” is to be interpreted as encompassing all specifically mentioned features as well optional, additional, unspecified ones. As used herein, the use of the term “comprising” also discloses the embodiment wherein no features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (i.e. “consisting of” ) .

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “skin” is intended to cover human skin. Human skin, in particular the skin of the face, neck, back or other body parts, more particular, the skin of the face and the skin around the eyes is considered according to the present invention.

Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the art the present invention belongs to. When the definition of a term in the present description conflicts with the meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the art the present invention belongs to, the definition described herein shall apply.

Unless otherwise specified, all numerical values expressing amount of ingredients and the like which are used in the description and claims are to be understood as being modified by the term “about” . Accordingly, unless indicated to the contrary, the numerical values and parameters described herein are approximate values which are capable of being changed according to the desired purpose as required.

The composition of the present invention can be in a galenical form selected from suspensions, dispersions, gels, sera, fluid or solid emulsions, solid, liquid or pasty anhydrous products, loose or compacted powders, cast, moulded and extruded forms.

The term “solid” as used herein means that the composition has a hardness such that it does not flow at ambient temperature under its own weight, as opposed to compositions that are said to be fluid.

White particles

According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one white particles having a volume average size (D50) of less than 25 μm.

The term "white" is intended to mean particles having the colour white and its derivatives (off-white, alabaster white, etc. ) , as opposed to primary colours and derivatives.

In some embodiment, the white particles used are inorganic particles.

In particular, the white particles have a lightness value L*close to 100 in the CIELab76 system.

Preferably, the white particles have a volume average size (D50) in the range of 0.3-10 μm.

The volume average size (D50) is a parameter for particle size distribution, referring to the maximum particle diameter below which 50%of the sample volume exists (see in “A Basic Guide To Particle Characterization” , page 10, published by Malvern Instruments Limited in 2012) .

The volume average size (D50) of the particles may be measured by static light scattering using a commercial granulometer such as the MasterSizer 3000 machine from Malvern. The data are processed on the basis of the Mie scattering theory. This theory, which is exact for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine, in the case of non-spherical particles, an "effective" particle diameter. This theory is especially described in the publication by Van de Hulst, H.C., "Light Scattering by Small Particles, " Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

The white particles according to the present invention have a continuous effect, which is controlled by the resolution capacity of the eye. Since said capacity is around 40 μm, particles having a volume average size (D50) of less than 8 μm, preferably less than 5 μm and even better still less than or equal to 3 μm are therefore considered. However, it is ensured that particles of which the D50 is greater than 0.3 μm and preferentially 0.5 μm are taken, so as not to have too great a loss of opacity, which would be extremely detrimental to the desired effect.

Thus, the composition of the present invention preferably comprises at least one white particles having a volume average size (D50) of less than 10 μm, preferably between 0.3 μm and 8 μm, more preferably between 0.3 μm and 6 μm, and most preferably between 0.5 and 6 μm.

These particles may be made of one material or else be composites. For example, these particles may be selected from boron nitride, silica, mica, synthetic mica, or mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, the white particles are boron nitride particles.

The white particles are advantageously boron nitride particles, preferentially having a volume average size (D50) of from 0.5 to 6 μm.

Preferably, the white particles according to the present invention have an average refractive index of between 1.4 and 2.2. This is because, if the particle has a refractive index above 2.2, the opacity of the composition is too high, and if this index is below 1.4, the lightening effect is not sufficient. The average refractive index is defined as being the sum of the refractive indices weighted by the weight content in the particle.

By way of example of particles, mention may be made of boron nitride particles, such as PUHP1030L from Saint Gobain Ceramics and UHP-1010 from Carborundum.

According to one particularly preferred embodiment, use will be made of boron nitride particles having a volume average size (D50) of less than 6 μm, such as the boron nitride particles sold under the name PUHP1030L by Saint Gobain Ceramics, having a volume average size (D50) of 3 μm.

Advantageously, the white particles are present in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 2 wt. %, preferably from 0.5 wt. %to 2 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Pearlescent pigment

According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one yellow pearlescent pigment and at least one red pearlescent pigment.

The term “pearlescent pigments” , which may also be called “nacres” , should be understood as meaning colored particles of any form, which may or may not be iridescent, especially produced by certain molluscs in their shell, or alternatively synthesized, and which have a color effect via optical interference.

Preferably, the pearlescent pigment has a volume average size (D50) in the range of 1-20 μm, preferably in the range of 5-15μm.

Preferably, the pearlescent pigment has a volume average size (D90) in the range of 1-25 μm, preferably in the range of 5-20 μm.

The volume average size (D90) is a parameter for particle size distribution, referring to the maximum particle diameter below which 90%of the sample volume exists.

The pearlescent pigment with a limited particle size and a colored reflection can contribute to color correction of a keratin substance such as skin by mixing the colored reflection with the original color of the keratin substance, and to natural appearance.

The pearlescent pigment can be in any shape. For example, it is possible to use a pearlescent pigment in the form of a plate with an aspect ratio of at least 5, preferably more than 10, more preferably more than 20, and even more preferably more than 50. The aspect ratio can be determined by the average thickness and the average length according to the formula: aspect ratio=length/thickness.

If a plate-like particle is used for the pearlescent pigment, it is preferable that the plate-like particle have a length of 15 μm or less, preferably 12 μm or less, and more preferably 10 μm or less.

Examples of the pearlescent pigment that may be mentioned include nacres titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride, mica coated with titanium dioxide and iron oxides, mica coated with titanium dioxide, and mica coated with titanium dioxide and tin oxide. They may also be mica particles at the surface of which are superposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and/or of organic dyestuffs.

It may be preferable that the pearlescent pigment comprises mica and metal oxide, preferably titanium oxide, iron oxides, and/or tin oxide.

The pearlescent pigment may have a reflection with a color such as blue, yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and copper.

According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises from 0.01 wt. %to 4 wt. %of at least one yellow pearlescent pigment, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The yellow pearlescent pigment can show a yellow reflection on a black background. Here, the term “yellow” means visible light with a wavelength of from about 577 nm to about 597 nm.

As illustrations of yellow pearlescent pigment that may be introduced into the composition according to the present invention, mention may be made of TITANIUM DIOXIDE (and) SYNTHETIC FLUORPHLOGOPITE (and) TIN OXIDE sold by the company JOINT COLOR GROUP, and TITANIUM DIOXIDE (and) MICA (and) IRON OXIDES sold under the name of CANDURIN GOLD SHEEN by Merck.

Advantageously, the yellow pearlscent pigment is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 3 wt. %, preferably from 0.5 wt. %to 2.5 wt. %, more preferably from 1 wt. %to 2.5 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises from 0.01wt. %to 2 wt. %of at least one red pearlescent pigment, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The red pearlescent pigment can show a red reflection on a black background. Here, the term “red” means visible light with a wavelength of from about 640 nm to about 780 nm.

As illustrations of red pearlescent pigment that may be introduced into the composition according to the present invention, mention may be made of TITANIUM DIOXIDE (and) MICA sold in the name of RONASTAR MAGIC RED by the company MERCK.

Advantageously, the red pearlscent pigment present in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 1 wt. %, preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 0.8 wt. %, more preferably from 0.15 wt. %to 0.6 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The yellow pearlescent pigment and the red pearlescent with a limited particle size and a colored reflection can contribute to color correction of a keratin substance such as skin by mixing the colored reflection with the original color of the keratin substance, and to natural appearance.

For the purpose of the present invention, preferably, the weight ratio of the white particles to the yellow pearlescent pigment is from 1: 1 to 1: 4.

Optionally, the composition according to the present invention comprises other pearlescent pigment in addition to the yellow pearlscent pigment and the red pearlscent pigment.

Aqueous phase

According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises an aqueous phase.

Said aqueous phase is preferably present in an amount ranging from 10%to 99%by weight, more preferably from 20%to 90%by weight, and even more preferably from 50%to 85%by weight of the total weight of the composition.

Water is preferably present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 1%to 80%by weight, preferably from 5%to 77%by weight, more preferably from 10%to 75%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The aqueous phase may comprise water, at least one organic solvent miscible with water or mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the hydrophilic phase comprises at least one organic solvent miscible with water (at room temperature 25℃) such as for example monoalcohols having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms such as ethanol, isopropanol; polyols having from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and preferentially having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylylglycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol; glycol ethers (notably having from 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as mono-, di-or tri-propylene glycol (C ₁-C ₄) alkyl ethers, mono-, di-or tri-ethylene glycol (C ₁-C ₄) alkyl ethers and mixtures thereof.

The hydrophilic phase of the composition of the present invention may comprise water and a polyol, preferably glycerol or propylene glycol, or a monoalcohol, preferably ethanol.

In one particular embodiment, the composition of the present invention is oil-free.

For the purposes of the invention, the term “oil-free” mean a composition comprising a single liquid phase which is an aqueous phase (a liquid phase including water) .

Fatty phase

In some embodiments, the composition of the present invention is in the form of an emulsion, preferably an oil-in-water emulsion, and comprises a dispersed fatty phase comprising at least one oil.

The term “oil” is intended to mean any fatty substance that is in liquid form at ambient temperature (20-25℃) and at atmospheric pressure.

The oil can be chosen from volatile and non-volatile oils of hydrocarbon-based, silicone or fluoro type. The oils may be of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin.

The term “volatile oil” is intended to mean an oil (or non-aqueous medium) capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil that is liquid at ambient temperature, having in particular a non-zero vapour pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapour pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10 ^-3 to 300 mmHg) , and preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) , and preferentially ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg) .

In addition, the volatile oil generally has a boiling point, measured at atmospheric pressure, ranging from 150℃ to 260℃, and preferably ranging from 170℃ to 250℃.

Advantageously, the fatty phase comprises from 1 wt. %to 30 wt. %, preferably ranging from 2 wt. %to 20 wt. %, and preferentially ranging from 3 wt. %to 15 wt. %, of volatile oil (s) , relative to the total weight of the composition.

The term “hydrocarbon-based oil” is intended to mean an oil formed essentially, or even consisting, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally of oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and containing no silicon or fluorine atom; it may contain ester, ether, amine and/or amide groups.

The term “silicone oil” is intended to mean an oil containing at least one silicon atom, and in particular containing Si-O groups.

The term “fluoro oil” is intended to mean an oil containing at least one fluorine atom.

Volatile oils

The volatile oil may be a hydrocarbon-based or silicone oil. In particular, use will be made of a hydrocarbon-based volatile oil which can be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils having a flash point ranging from 40℃ to 102℃, preferably ranging from 40℃ to 55℃, and preferentially ranging from 40℃to 50℃.

As a hydrocarbon-based volatile oil, mention may be made of hydrocarbon-based volatile oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms which are linear or branched, and mixtures thereof, and in particular branched C ₈-C ₁₆ alkanes, such as C ₈-C ₁₆ isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins) , isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, the undecane/tridecane mixture as described in application WO2008/155059, dodecane, tetradecane and mixtures thereof, and for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permetyl, C ₈-C ₁₆ branched esters, such as isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the hydrocarbon-based volatile oil is chosen from hydrocarbon-based volatile oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof, which are linear or branched.

Non-volatile oils

The non-volatile oil (s) may be present in a content ranging from 0.1%to 20%by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion, and preferably ranging from 1 wt. %to 15 wt. %.

The non-volatile oil may be chosen from carbon-based, hydrocarbon-based and/or silicone and/or fluoro oils of mineral, animal, vegetable or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof, insofar as they are compatible with the use envisaged.

Mention may be made of non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils such as liquid paraffin or liquid petroleum jelly, isoeicosane, soya oil, perhydrosqualene, sweet almond oil, beauty-leaf oil, palm oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, maize oil, rapeseed oil, sunflower oil, cottonseed oil, apricot oil, castor oil, avocado oil, jojoba oil, olive oil or cereal germ oil; esters of lanolic acid, of oleic acid, of lauric acid, of stearic acid; fatty esters, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate or lactate, 2-diethylhexyl succinate, diisostearyl malate, glyceryl triisostearate or diglyceryl triisostearate; carbonates, such as dicaprylyl carbonate, ethers, such as dicaprylyl ether, higher fatty acids, such as myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid or isostearic acid; higher fatty alcohols, such as cetanol, stearyl alcohol or oleyl alcohol, linoleyl or linolenyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol or octyldodecanol.

In some preferred embodiments, the composition according to the present invention is a transparent emulsion, which comprises at least one oil selected from liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C ₁-C ₂₆ aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C ₁-C ₂₆ aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.

Preferably, for the esters of monoalcohols, at least one from among the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.

Among the monoesters of monoacids and of monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl palmitate, ethyl hexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, and isostearyl neopentanoate.

A composition of the present invention may comprise a liquid fatty phase in a content ranging from 1 wt. %to 50 wt. %, in particular from 2 wt. %to 35%, and more particularly from 5 wt. %to 25 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Surfactants

In some preferred embodiments, in order to obtain a transparent emulsion, especially a transparent oil-in-water emulsion, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one surfactant.

Preferably, at least one surfactant includes a fatty acid ester of polyethylene glycol and/or a glyceryl ester as nonionic surfactant.

Examples of fatty acid ester of polyethylene glycol that may be mentioned include (INCI name) PEG-8 Stearate, PEG-6 Oleate, PEG-6 Isostearate, PEG-12 Isostearate, PEG-12 Diisostearate, PEG-8 Isostearate, PEG-8 Diisostearate, PEG-10 Isostearate; PEG-100 stearate, and the like.

Examples of glyceryl ester that may be mentioned includers glyceryl oleate, glyceryl monostearate (or glyceryl stearate) , glyceryl monoisostearate, glyceryl monopalmitate, glyceryl monobehenate, or mixtures thereof.

In some preferred embodiments, the surfactant is glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate.

If presents, preferably, the surfactant is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of from 0.01 wt. %to 10 wt. %, preferably from about 0.5 wt. %to 7 wt. %, and more preferably from about 1 wt. %to 5 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Additives

The compositions of the present invention may also contain conventional additive, such as fragrances, preservatives, thickeners, organic or mineral, physical and chemical sunscreens, sequestering agents, antioxidants, insoluble, liposoluble or water-soluble active agents, moisturizers such as polyols and in particular glycerol, pH adjusters (acids or bases) , active agents extracted from plants or resulting from biotechnology, mineral active agents, or tensioning agents.

These additives are generally used at concentrations ranging from 0.1%to 10%of the total weight of the final composition.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to an anti-dark circle eye product, comprising in an aqueous phase, relative to the total weight of the composition:

(i) from 0.5 wt. %to 2 wt. %of boron nitride having a volume average size (D50) of from 0.5μm to 6μm,

(ii) from 1 wt. %to 2.5 wt. %of at least one yellow pearlescent pigment having a volume average size (D50) of from 5 to 15 μm, and

(iii) from 0.15 wt. %to 0.6 wt. %of at least one red pearlescent pigment having a volume average size (D50) of from 5 to 15 μm.

In an embodiment, the anti-dark circle eye product is a hydrogel, especially a transparent.

In an embodiment, the anti-dark circle eye product is an oil-in-water emulsion, especially a transparent oil-in-water emulsion.

Method and use

According to the second aspect, the present invention provides a method for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, in particular, the skin, comprising application to the keratin materials of the composition according to the present invention.

In some embodiment, the present invention provides a method for anti-dark circle, comprising application to the skin around the eyes of the composition according to the present invention.

The method of the present invention is very effective for consumers aged from 20 to 40 having blue/green type dark circles.

The invention will now be illustrated by means of the following non-limiting examples.

EXAMPLES

Example 1

Anti-black circle compositions in the form of oil-in-water emulsion according to invention formulas (inv. ) 1-2 and comparative formulas (comp. ) 1-2 were prepared according to the amounts given in the Tables 1 and 2 below. The amounts are given in%by weight of the total composition.

Table 1: O/W emulsions

Table 2: O/W Emulsion

Preparation Procedure:

The oil-in-water emulsions listed above were prepared as follows:

1. the ingredients of Phase A were added into a main kettle and heated to 75℃, mixed for 10-15 minutes;

2. the ingredients of Phase B were heated to 80℃ and added into phase A, homogenized for 10 minutes to obtain a mixture;

3. the mixture was cooled down to room temperature; and

4. the ingredients of phase C was added into the mixture at room temperature and dispersed with a mixer to obtain an emulsion.

The emulsions obtained are transparent.

The emulsions prepared above were evaluated through an In-Vitro test and an In-Vivo test.

A. In-Vitro test

The compositions to be tested were applied on a Bioskin (Bioskin#20 available from Fisher Scientific Worldwide (Shanghai) Co., Ltd) with the amount of 2mg/cm ² to mimic the amount for a consumer to use on the eyelid, and delta L were tested to compare the instant brightness of each composition, the results were summarized in Table 3.

Table 3

	BN	Red Pearl Pigment	Yellow Pearl Pigment	delta L
Inv. 1	1	0.5	1	5.34
Comp. 1	0	0.5	1	3.28
Comp. 2	1	0.5	0	3.02

It can be seen from Table 3 that the compositions of invention formula (Inv. ) 1 demonstrates a higher delta L, indicating effective brightening, as compared with the compositions of comparative formulas (Comp. ) 1 and 2.

B. In-Vivo test

Recruitment criteria for models:

·N=4 (Trial version for fast screening)

·Chinese women of 20-35 years old with dark circle concerns, being eye product users; and

·Excluding sensitive skin.

Evaluation Attributes

Front pictures were acquired with a chromasphere with a definition of 410′ 410 pixels to obtain L*, a*, b*and ΔE.

Test Zone:

Two areas under the eye and two areas on the cheek were evaluated.

Test Procedure:

·Models wait for 10 minutes then wash face with a cleanser;

·Models wait in a standard condition room for 30 minutes;

·a baseline measurement was carried out;

·the compositions to be tested were applied;

·the instant optical effect evaluation was performed 10 mintues after application.

Fig. 1 shows the results of coverage on eyelid and dark circle visibility upon application of the compositions of invention formulas (Inv. ) 1 and 2 as well as comparative formula (Comp. ) 1.

In Fig. 1, positive coverage direction and negative coverage direction were demonstrated. Within the preferred circle, good coverage and natural appearance were observed upon application.

Example 2

Anti-black circle compositions in the form of hydrogel according to inventive formulas (inv. ) 3-4 and comparative formula (comp. ) 3 were prepared according to the amounts given in the Tables 4 and 5 below. The amounts are given in%by weight of the total composition.

Table 4: Hydrogels

Table 5: Hydrogel

Preparation Procedure:

The hydrogels listed above were prepared as follows:

1. the ingredients of Phase A were added into a main kettle and heated to 75℃, mixed for 15 minutes;

2. the ingredient of Phase B was added into phase A, homogenized for 10 minutes to obtain a mixture;

3. the mixture was cooled down to 30℃ and the ingredients of Phase C were added and mixed; and

4. the ingredient of phase D at 30℃ and mixed to obtain a hydrogel.

The gels obtained are transparent.

The compositions prepared in this example were evaluated through an In-Vitro test or an In-Vivo test as described in Example 1.

A. In Vitro test

The compositions to be tested were applied on a Bioskin (Bioskin#20 available from Fisher Scientific Worldwide (Shanghai) Co., Ltd) with the amount of 2mg/cm ² to mimic the amount for a consumer to use on the eyelid, and delta L were tested to compare the instant brightness of each composition. The results of compositions of invention formula (Inv. ) 3 and comparative formula (Comp. ) 3 were summarized in Table 6.

Table 6

	BN	Red Pearl pigment	Yellow Pearl pigment	delta L
Inv. 3	1	0.5	2	4.11
Comp. 3	1	0.5	0	1.04

It can be seen from Table 6 that the composition of invention formula (Inv. ) 3 demonstrate higher delta L, indicating effective brightening, as compared with the composition of comparative formulas (Comp. ) 3.

B. In Vivo test

Fig. 1 also shows the results of coverage on eyelid and dark circle visibility upon application of the compositions of invention formula (Inv. ) 4.

It can be seen that the composition of invention formula (Inv. ) 4 also falls into the preferred circle, which means good coverage and natural appearance were observed upon application.

From Examples 1 and 2, it can be seen that the compositions according to the present invention have good coverage on the skin and look natural upon application, can effectively brighten the skin and reduce the visibility of dark circle.

Claims

Composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, comprising in an aqueous phase, relative to the total weight of the composition

(i) from 0.01 wt. %to 4 wt. %of at least one white particles having a volume average size (D50) of less than 25 μm,

(ii) from 0.01 wt. %to 4 wt. %of at least one yellow pearlescent pigment having a volume average size (D50) of less than 25 μm, and

(iii) from 0.01 wt. %to 2 wt. %of at least one red pearlescent pigment having a volume average size (D50) of less than 25 μm.
Composition of claim 1, wherein the white particles has an average refractive index of between 1.4 and 2.2.
Composition of claim 1 or 2, wherein the white particles are selected from boron nitride, silica, mica, synthetic mica, or mixtures thereof.
Composition of any of claims 1 to 3, wherein the white particles has a volume average size (D50) of less than 10 μm, preferably between 0.3 μm, more preferably between 0.3 μm and 6 μm, and most preferably between 0.5 and 6 μm.
Composition of claim 1 or 2, wherein the white particles are present in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 2 wt. %, preferably from 0.5 wt. %to 2 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Composition of any of claims 1 to 3, wherein the yellow pearlescent pigment and/or the red yellow pearlescent pigment has a volume average size (D50) in the range of 1-20 μm, preferably in the range of 5-15 μm.
Composition of any of claims 1 to 6, wherein the yellow pearlescent pigment and/or the red yellow pearlescent pigment comprises mica and metal oxide, preferably titanium oxide, iron oxides, and/or tin oxide.
Composition of any of claims 1 to 7, wherein the yellow pearlscent pigment is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 3 wt. %, preferably from 0.5 wt. %to 2.5 wt.%, more preferably from 1 wt. %to 2.5 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Composition of any of claims 1 to 8, wherein t the red pearlscent pigment present in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 1 wt. %, preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 0.8 wt.%, more preferably from 0.15 wt. %to 0.6 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Composition of any of claims 1 to 9, wherein the weight ratio of white particles to yellow pearlescent pigment is from 1∶1 to 1∶4.
Composition of any of claims 1 to 10, further comprising at least one oil selected from liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C ₁-C ₂₆ aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C ₁-C ₂₆ aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.
Composition of any of claims 1 to 11, further a fatty acid ester of polyethylene glycol and/or a glyceryl ester as nonionic surfactant.
An anti-dark circle eye product, comprising in an aqueous phase, relative to the total weight of the composition:

(i) from 0.5 wt. %to 2 wt. %of boron nitride having a volume average size (D50) of from 0.5 μm to 6 μm,

(ii) from 1 wt. %to 2.5 wt. %of at least one yellow pearlescent pigment having a volume average size (D50) of from 5 to 15 μm, and

(iii) from 0.15 wt. %to 0.6 wt. %of at least one red pearlescent pigment having a volume average size (D50) of from 5 to 15 μm.
A method for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, comprising application to the keratin materials of the composition according to any of the claims 1-13.
The method according to claim 14, which is used for anti-dark circle.