WO2021237318A1 - Composition cosmétique comprenant de l'acide dioïque insaturé et ses utilisations - Google Patents

Composition cosmétique comprenant de l'acide dioïque insaturé et ses utilisations Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2021237318A1
WO2021237318A1 PCT/BR2020/050190 BR2020050190W WO2021237318A1 WO 2021237318 A1 WO2021237318 A1 WO 2021237318A1 BR 2020050190 W BR2020050190 W BR 2020050190W WO 2021237318 A1 WO2021237318 A1 WO 2021237318A1
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composition
acid
cosmetic composition
weight
name
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PCT/BR2020/050190
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English (en)
Inventor
Antoniela GARDOLINSKI
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L'oreal
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Priority to BR112022012785A priority Critical patent/BR112022012785A2/pt
Priority to PCT/BR2020/050190 priority patent/WO2021237318A1/fr
Priority to FR2008776A priority patent/FR3110844B1/fr
Publication of WO2021237318A1 publication Critical patent/WO2021237318A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/362—Polycarboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
    • A61P17/00—Drugs for dermatological disorders
    • A61P17/10—Anti-acne agents
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/02—Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, particularly an oil-in-water emulsion comprising at least one unsaturated dioic acid, UV filter system and C12-C15 alkyl benzoate.
  • the present invention is also directed to uses of the cosmetic composition as a sunscreen daily product, as a product for lightening the skin, as a product for preventing and/or treating undesired skin pigmentation or as a product for preventing and/or treating acne.
  • a wide variety of organic acids is currently used for treating various skin conditions.
  • Cosmetic and/or dermatological compositions containing acids are known in the art. They help to increase skin cell turnover and ultimately provide younger, fresher, healthier looking skin.
  • Unsaturated dioic acids are typically known for their antioxidant and lightening effect, and they are usually applied to the skin for preventing skin aging and for the treating of acne and undesired skin pigmentation. These acids are of great importance on account of their biological effects on the skin.
  • the inventors developed a cosmetic composition comprising at least one unsaturated dioic acid, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, UV filter system and water.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present invention surprisingly showed long-term stability, with no formation of unsaturated dioic acid crystals over time.
  • the composition has satisfactory sun protection factor, while preserving the performance of unsaturated dioic acid, showing no interference between the UV filters and the unsaturated dioic acid.
  • the inventors succeeded to overcome the problems of the state of the art and surprisingly revealed a cosmetic composition having the aforementioned technical advantages.
  • the present invention is directed to a cosmetic composition
  • a cosmetic composition comprising
  • the present invention also relates to the uses of the cosmetic composition.
  • FIG. 1 shows the microscopy images taken for a composition according to example 2 of the present invention after fabrication (To) and 5 months after fabrication under storage at room temperature (TSM).
  • the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises:
  • the amount of the at least one unsaturated dioic acid in the cosmetic composition ranges from about 0.01% to about 10% by weight, preferably from about 0.1% to about 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the at least one unsaturated dioic acid is advantageously selected from the group consisting of Cs- C22 unsaturated dioic acids, and it is preferably 9-octadecenedioic acid (INCI name: octadecenedioic acid).
  • the amount of C12-C15 alkyl benzoate in the cosmetic composition ranges from about 5% to about 30% by weight, preferably from about 5% to about 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of UV filter system in the cosmetic composition ranges from about 0.1% to about 40% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the UV filter system according to the present invention preferably comprises at least one UV filter selected from the group consisting of organic UV filters.
  • the at least one UV filter of the UV filter system is preferably selected from the group consisting of ethylhexyl triazone, octocrylene, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, drometrizole trisiloxane and terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid.
  • the total amount of water in the composition according to the present invention is preferably in the range of about 0.1% to about 90% by weight, preferably from about 1 % to about 80% by weight, more preferably from about 10% to about 70% by weight, even more preferably from about 10% to about 60% by weight, better still from about 20% to about 60% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition
  • the cosmetic composition of the present invention can further comprise at least one additional compound selected from the group consisting of surfactants, vitamins, preservatives, polymers, silicones, fatty compounds, fillers, additional solvents (other than C12-C15 alkyl benzoate and water), additional active compounds and mixtures thereof.
  • additional compound selected from the group consisting of surfactants, vitamins, preservatives, polymers, silicones, fatty compounds, fillers, additional solvents (other than C12-C15 alkyl benzoate and water), additional active compounds and mixtures thereof.
  • composition of the present invention has a SPF of about 30, about 50, about 60, about 70, about 90 or about 100.
  • the cosmetic composition of the present invention is preferably in the form of an oil in water (O/W) emulsion and can be used as a daily product for the skin.
  • O/W oil in water
  • the present invention is related to the use of the cosmetic composition for manufacturing a product for protecting the skin from UV radiation and preventing sunburn, which can be used as sunscreen daily product.
  • the cosmetic composition of the present invention can also be used for manufacturing a product for lightening the skin, for preventing and/or treating undesired skin pigmentation, for preventing and/or treating acne.
  • the expression “at least” means one or more and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations thereof. Other than in the operating examples, or where otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients and/or process conditions are to be understood as being modified in all instances by the term “about,” meaning within +/- 5% of the indicated number.
  • ranges provided are meant to include every specific range within, and combination of sub ranges between, the given ranges.
  • a range from 1 -5 includes specifically 1 , 2, 3, 4 and 5, as well as sub ranges such as 2-5, 3-5, 2-3, 2-4, 1 -4, etc.
  • All ranges and values disclosed herein are inclusive and combinable. For examples, any value or point described herein that falls within a range described herein can serve as a minimum or maximum value to derive a sub-range, etc.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises at least one unsaturated dioic acid (unsaturated dicarboxylic acid).
  • unsaturated dioic acid relates to an organic compound containing two carboxyl functional groups (-COOH) and at least one pi (TT) bond linking two carbon atoms.
  • Advantageous unsaturated dioic acids according to the present invention are those selected from the group consisting of C8-C22 unsaturated dioic acids, and they are preferably selected from unbranched unsaturated dioic acids.
  • the at least one unsaturated dioic acid according to the present invention is 9-octadecenedioic acid (INCI name: octadecenedioic acid).
  • the amount of the at least one unsaturated dioic acid in the cosmetic composition of the present invention ranges from about 0.01% to about 10% by weight, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 5% by weight, even more preferably from about 0.1% to about 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • C12-C15 alkyl benzoate is an ester of benzoic acid and C12-C15 alcohols. This ingredient mainly functions in cosmetic compositions as an emollient and a solvent.
  • C12-C15 alkyl benzoate is responsible for efficiently solubilizing the unsaturated dioic acid and keeping it stable over time.
  • the amount of the at least one unsaturated dioic acid in the cosmetic composition of the present invention ranges from about 5% to about 30% by weight, more preferably from about 5% to about 20% by weight, even more preferably from about 5% to about 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the present invention comprises a UV filter system.
  • the UV filter system may comprise at least one UV filter selected from the group of organic UV filters.
  • composition according to the present invention may comprise the UV filter system in an amount of from about 0.1% by weight to about 40% by weight, and in some embodiments from about 1% by weight to about 40% by weight, and in some embodiments from about 5% by weight to about 30% by weight, in relation to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention comprises a UV filter system comprising at least one organic UV filter. If two or more organic UV filters are used, they may be the same or different.
  • the organic UV filters used for the present invention may be active in the UV- A and/or UV-B region.
  • the organic UV filters may be hydrophilic and/or lipophilic.
  • the organic UV filters may be solid or liquid.
  • the terms “solid” and “liquid” mean solid and liquid, respectively, at 25°C under 1 atm.
  • the organic UV filter can be selected from the group consisting of anthranilic compounds; dibenzoylmethane compounds; cinnamic compounds; salicylic compounds; camphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; b,b-diphenylacrylate compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; benzalmalonate compounds; benzimidazole compounds; imidazoline compounds; bis-benzoazolyl compounds; p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) compounds; methylenebis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds; benzoxazole compounds; screening polymers and screening silicones; dimers derived from a-alkylstyrene; 4,4- diarylbutadienes compounds; guaiazulene and derivatives thereof; rutin and derivatives thereof; flavonoids; bioflavonoids; oryzanol and derivatives thereof; quinic acid and derivatives thereof; phenols; retinol; cysteine; aromatic amino acids; peptid
  • Anthranilic compounds menthyl anthranilates, such as marketed under the trademark "Neo Heliopan MA” by Haarmann and Reimer.
  • the dibenzoylmethane compounds Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, such as marketed in particular under the trademark "Parsol 1789” by Hoffmann-La Roche; and isopropyl dibenzoylmethane.
  • Cinnamic compounds Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, such as marketed in particular under the trademark "Parsol MCX” by Hoffmann-La Roche; isopropyl methoxycinnamate; isopropoxy methoxycinnamate; isoamyl methoxycinnamate, such as marketed under the trademark "Neo Heliopan E 1000" by Haarmann and Reimer; cinoxate (2- ethoxyethyl-4-methoxy cinnamate); DEA methoxycinnamate; diisopropyl methylcinnamate; and glyceryl ethylhexanoate dimethoxycinnamate.
  • Salicylic compounds Homosalate (homomentyl salicylate), such as marketed under the trademark "Eusolex HMS” by Rona/EM Industries; ethylhexyl salicylate, such as marketed under the trademark “Neo Heliopan OS” by Haarmann and Reimer; glycol salicylate; butyloctyl salicylate; phenyl salicylate; dipropyleneglycol salicylate, such as marketed under the trademark “Dipsal” by Scher; and TEA salicylate, such as marketed under the trademark "Neo Heliopan TS” by Haarmann and Reimer.
  • Homosalate homomentyl salicylate
  • ethylhexyl salicylate such as marketed under the trademark "Neo Heliopan OS” by Haarmann and Reimer
  • glycol salicylate butyloctyl salicylate
  • phenyl salicylate dipropyleneglycol salicylate
  • TEA salicylate
  • Camphor compounds in particular, benzylidenecamphor derivatives: 3-benzylidene camphor, such as manufactured under the trademark “Mexoryl SD” by Chimex; 4- methylbenzylidene camphor, such as marketed under the trademark “Eusolex 6300” by Merck; benzylidene camphor sulfonic acid, such as manufactured under the trademark “Mexoryl SL” by Chimex; camphor benzalkonium methosulfate, such as manufactured under the trademark “Mexoryl SO” by Chimex; terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, such as manufactured under the trademark “Mexoryl SX” by Chimex; and polyacrylamidomethyl benzylidene camphor, such as manufactured under the trademark "Mexoryl SW” by Chimex.
  • 3-benzylidene camphor such as manufactured under the trademark "Mexoryl SD” by Chimex
  • 4- methylbenzylidene camphor such as
  • Benzophenone compounds Benzophenone-1 (2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone), such as marketed under the trademark "Uvinul 400" by BASF; benzophenone-2 (Tetrahydroxybenzophenone), such as marketed under the trademark "Uvinul D50” by BASF; Benzophenone-3 (2- hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone) or oxybenzone, such as marketed under the trademark "Uvinul M40" by BASF; benzophenone-4 (hydroxymethoxy benzophonene sulfonic acid), such as marketed under the trademark "Uvinul MS40" by BASF; benzophenone-5 (Sodium hydroxymethoxy benzophenone Sulfonate); benzophenone-6 (dihydroxy dimethoxy benzophenone); such as marketed under the trademark "Helisorb 11" by Norquay; benzophenone-8, such as marketed under the trademark "Spectra-Sorb UV-24" by American Cyanamid; benzophenone-9 (Dis
  • Triazine compounds Diethylhexyl butamido triazone, such as marketed under the trademark “Uvasorb FIEB” by Sigma 3V; 2,4,6-tris(dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, bis- ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, such as marketed under the trademark «TINOSORB S » by CIBA GEIGY, and ethylhexyl triazone, such as marketed under the trademark «UVTNUL T150 » by BASF.
  • Benzotriazole compounds in particular, phenylbenzotriazole derivatives: 2-(2FI-benzotriazole-2-yl)-6-dodecyl-4-methylpheno, branched and linear; and those described in USP 5240975.
  • Benzalmalonate compounds Dineopentyl 4'-methoxybenzalmalonate, and polyorganosiloxane comprising benzalmalonate functional groups, such as polysilicone-15, such as marketed under the trademark "Parsol SLX" by Floffmann-LaRoche.
  • Benzimidazole compounds in particular, phenylbenzimidazole derivatives: Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, such as marketed in particular under the trademark “Eusolex 232" by Merck, and disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, such as marketed under the trademark "Neo Fleliopan AP” by Flaarmann and Reimer.
  • Imidazoline compounds Ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidene dioxoimidazoline propionate.
  • Bis-benzoazolyl compounds The derivatives as described in EP-669,323 and U.S. Pat. No. 2,463,264.
  • Para-aminobenzoic acid compounds PABA (p-aminobenzoic acid), ethyl PABA, Ethyl dihydroxypropyl PABA, pentyl dimethyl PABA, ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA, such as marketed in particular under the trademark "Escalol 507" by ISP, glyceryl PABA, and PEG-25 PABA, such as marketed under the trademark "Uvinul P25" by BASF.
  • PABA p-aminobenzoic acid
  • ethyl PABA Ethyl dihydroxypropyl PABA
  • pentyl dimethyl PABA ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA
  • PEG-25 PABA such as marketed under the trademark "Uvinul P25” by BASF.
  • Methylene bis-(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazol) compounds such as 2,2'-methylenebis[6- (2FI-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-methyl-phenol], such as marketed in the solid form under the trademark "Mixxim BB/200" by Fairmount Chemical, 2,2'-methylenebis[6-(2FI- benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-(l,l,3,3-tetramethylbutyl)phenol], such as marketed in the micronized form in aqueous dispersion under the trademark "Tinosorb M” by BASF, or under the trademark "Mixxim BB/100” by Fairmount Chemical, and the derivatives as described in U.S. Pat. Nos.
  • Drometrizole trisiloxane such as marketed under the trademark "Silatrizole” by Rhodia Chimie or- "Mexoryl XL” by L’Oreal.
  • Benzoxazole compounds 2,4-bis[5-l(dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)imino]- 6-(2-ethylhexyl)imino-
  • 1.3.5-triazine such as marketed under the trademark of Uvasorb K2A by Sigma 3V.
  • Screening polymers and screening silicones The silicones described in WO 93/04665.
  • Dimers derived from a-alkylstyrene The dimers described in DE-19855649.
  • 4,4- Diarylbutadiene compounds l,l-dicarboxy(2,2'-dimethylpropyl)-4,4-diphenylbutadiene.
  • the organic UV filter(s) be selected from the group consisting of: butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, homosalate, ethylhexyl salicylate, octocrylene, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, benzophenone-3, benzophenone-4, benzophenone-5, n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate, l,r-(l,4- piperazinediyl)bis[l-[2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]phenyl]-methanone 4- methylbenzylidene camphor, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, ethoxydibenzoylmethan
  • the at least one UV filter of the UV filter system is selected from the group consisting of ethylhexyl triazone, octocrylene, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, drometrizole trisiloxane, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid and mixtures thereof.
  • composition of the invention may further comprise at least one additional compound, that is, any usual cosmetically acceptable compound, which may be chosen especially from surfactants, vitamins, preservatives, polymers, silicones, fatty compounds, fillers, additional solvents (other than C12-C15 alkyl benzoate and water), additional active compounds and mixtures thereof.
  • additional compound that is, any usual cosmetically acceptable compound, which may be chosen especially from surfactants, vitamins, preservatives, polymers, silicones, fatty compounds, fillers, additional solvents (other than C12-C15 alkyl benzoate and water), additional active compounds and mixtures thereof.
  • additional compounds do not include, respectively, the compounds, solvents and active compounds previously mentioned hereinbefore.
  • Surfactants useful for the present invention are preferably selected from nonionic surfactants, anionic surfactants and mixtures thereof.
  • Non-limiting examples of nonionic surfactants useful in the present invention include, for example, alkyl- and polyalkyl- esters of glycerol, polyglycerol ester of fatty acids, mixtures of alkyl- and polyalkyl- esters of glycerol with polyglyceryl, such as polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate, oxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylenated), fatty acid esters of glycerol; oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters of sorbitan; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated) fatty acid esters (esters of polyethylene glycol and fatty acids); oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated) fatty alcohol ethers; sugar esters, for instance sucrose stearate; fatty alcohol ethers of sugars, especially alkyl polyglu
  • the mixture of the alkyl polyglucoside as defined above with the corresponding fatty alcohol may be in the form of a self- emulsifying composition. Mention may also be made of lecithins and derivatives (e.g. Biophilic), sugar esters and sodium stearoyl lactylate.
  • Alkyl- esters of glycerol includes glyceryl esters of fatty acids, such as glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-, di-, and/or tristearate), glyceryl laurate or glyceryl ricinoleate, and mixtures thereof.
  • glyceryl esters of fatty acids such as glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-, di-, and/or tristearate), glyceryl laurate or glyceryl ricinoleate, and mixtures thereof.
  • polyoxyalkylenated derivatives thereof mono-, di-, or triester of fatty acids with a polyoxyalkylenated glycerol (mono, di-, or triester of fatty acids with a polyalkylene glycol ether of glycerol) can be cited, preferably polyoxyethylenated glyceryl stearate (mono-, di-, and/or tristearate), such as PEG-20 glyceryl stearate (mono-, di-, and/or tristearate).
  • Polyglycerol esters of fatty acids may be selected from esters derived from the reaction of polyglycerol having from 2 to 12 glycerol units, preferably from 3 to 10 glycerol units and of at least one fatty acid comprising from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 18 carbon atoms and more preferably 10 to 14 carbon atoms.
  • Fatty acids containing from 8 to 24 carbon atoms may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.
  • the fatty acids may be selected from oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid, myristic acid, linoleic acid, capric acid, caprylic acid, or mixtures thereof.
  • polyglycerol esters of fatty acid are selected from esters derived from the reaction of polyglycerol comprising 2 to 12 glycerol units, preferably from 4 to 10 glycerol units, and of at least a fatty acid having less than 16 carbon atoms, preferably less than 15 carbon atoms, for example from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and better still from 8 to 14 carbon atoms.
  • the polyglycerol ester of fatty acid is selected from polyglycerol esters derived from the reaction comprising 4 to 10 glycerol units and of at least one fatty acid comprising from 8 to 12 carbon atoms preferably 10 to 12 carbon atoms such as lauric acid and / or capric acid.
  • ester from polyglyceryl-10 reaction glycerol homopolymer comprising 10 glycerol units
  • lauric acid ICI name: polyglyceryl-10 laurate
  • ester from the reaction polyglycerol-4 glycerol homopolymer comprising 4 glycerol units
  • capric acid ICI name: polyglyceryl-4 caprate
  • oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters examples include the adducts of ethylene oxide with esters of lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid, and mixtures thereof, especially those containing from 9 to 100 oxyethylene units, such as PEG-9 to PEG-50 laurate (PEG-9 laurate to PEG-50 laurate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitate (PEG-9 palmitate to PEG-50 palmitate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 stearate (PEG-9 stearate to PEG-50 stearate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitostearate; PEG-9 to PEG-50 behenate (PEG-9 behenate to PEG-50 behenate); polyethylene glycol 100 EO monostearate (PEG-100 stearate); and mixtures thereof.
  • nonionic surfactants to be used in the surfactant system of the present invention include polycondensates of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide of the structure below
  • a and a’ range from 10 to 130 and b ranges from 20 to 80, better still a and a’ range from 50 to 130 and b ranges from 30 to 80, and even better still a and a’ range from 80 to 130 and b ranges from 40 to 80.
  • a and a’ are identical.
  • the polycondensate of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide that is useful in the composition of the invention preferably has a weight-average molecular weight ranging from 250 to 19 000, better still ranging from 1200 to 15 000, in particular ranging from 1500 to 10 000 and even better still ranging from 1500 to 5000.
  • the polycondensate of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide has a cloud point, at 10 g/l in distilled water, greater than or equal to 20°C and preferably greater than or equal to 60°C.
  • the cloud point is measured according to standard ISO 1065.
  • Synperonic® PE/F32 (INCI name: Poloxamer 108), Synperonic® PE/F108 (INCI name: Poloxamer 338), Synperonic® PE/L44 (INCI name: Poloxamer 124), Synperonic® PE/L42 (INCI name: Poloxamer 122), Synperonic® PE/F127 (INCI name: Poloxamer 407), Synperonic® PE/F88 (INCI name: Poloxamer 238), Synperonic® PE/L64 (INCI name: Poloxamer 184), Synperonic® PE/F88 (INCI name: Poloxamer 238), Synperonic® PE/F87 (INCI name: Poloxamer 237) by the company Croda, or Lu
  • Useful nonionic surfactants are select from the group consisting of glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate, Poloxamer 338 and mixtures thereof.
  • Non-limiting anionic surfactant(s) that may be used in the present invention are also selected from the group comprising , alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, sulfonates, such as alkylsulfonates, alkylamide sulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alpha-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkylsulfosuccinamates, N-acyl N-methyltaurates, N-acylisethionates, N-acyltaurates, salts
  • the anionic surfactant may also be chosen in particular from anionic derivatives of proteins of vegetable origin or of silk proteins, phosphates and alkyl phosphates, carboxylates, sulphosuccinates, amino acid derivatives, alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, sulphonates, isethionates, taurates, alkyl sulphoacetates, polypeptides, anionic derivatives of alkyl poly glucosides, and their mixtures.
  • Anionic derivatives of proteins of vegetable origin are protein hydrolysates comprising a hydrophobic group, it being possible for the said hydrophobic group to be naturally present in the protein or to be added by reaction of the protein and/or of the protein hydrolysate with a hydrophobic compound.
  • the proteins are of vegetable origin or derived from silk, and the hydrophobic group can in particular be a fatty chain, for example an alkyl chain comprising from 10 to 22 carbon atoms. Mention may more particularly be made, as anionic derivatives of proteins of vegetable origin, of apple, wheat, soybean or oat protein hydrolysates comprising an alkyl chain having from 10 to 22 carbon atoms, and their salts.
  • the alkyl chain can in particular be a lauryl chain and the salt can be a sodium, potassium and/or ammonium salt.
  • phosphates and alkyl phosphates for example, of monoalkyl phosphates and dialkyl phosphates, such as lauryl monophosphate, such as the product sold under the name MAP20® by Kao Chemicals, the potassium salt of dodecyl phosphate, the mixture of mono- and diesters (predominantly diester), for example sold under the name Crafol AP-31® by Cognis, the mixture of octyl phosphate monoester and diester, such as the product sold under the name Crafol AP-20® by Cognis, the mixture of ethoxylated (7 mol of EO) 2- butyloctyl phosphate monoester and diester, such as the product sold under the name Isofol 12 7 EO-Phosphate Ester® by Condea, the potassium or triethanolamine salt of mono(C12-C13)alkyl phosphate, such as the products sold under
  • carboxylates of: amido ether carboxylates (AEC), such as sodium lauryl amido ether carboxylate (3 EO), for example, sold under the name Akypo Foam 30® by Kao Chemicals; polyoxyethylenated carboxylic acid salts, such as oxyethylenated (6 EO) sodium lauryl ether carboxylate (65/25/10 C12-C14-C16), for example, sold under the name Akypo Soft 45 NV® by Kao Chemicals, polyoxyethylenated and carboxymethylated fatty acids originating from olive oil, such as the one sold under the name Olivem 400® by Biologia E Tecnologia, or oxyethylenated (6 EO) sodium tridecyl ether carboxylate, for example, sold under the name Nikkol ECTD-6NEX® by Nikkol; and salts of fatty acids (soaps) having a C6 to C22 al
  • sarcosinates such as sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, for example, sold under the name Sarkosyl NL 97® by Ciba or sold under the name Oramix L 30® by Seppic
  • sodium myristoyl sarcosinate such as the product sold under the name Nikkol Sarcosinate MN® by Nikkol, or sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate, sold under the name Nikkol Sarcosinate PN® by Nikkol
  • alaninates such as sodium N-lauroyl-N-methyl amidopropionate, for example, sold under the name Sodium Nikkol Alaninate LN 30® by Nikkol or sold under the name Alanone ALE® by Kawaken, or triethanolamine N-lauroyl-N-methylalanine, for example, sold under the name Alanone ALTA® by Kawaken
  • glutamates such as sodium N-lauroyl-N-methylalanine, for example, sold under the name Alanone ALTA®
  • sulphosuccinates for example, of oxyethylenated (3 EO) lauryl (70/30 C12/C14) alcohol monosulphosuccinate, such as the product sold under the names Setacin 103 Special® and Rewopol SB-FA 30 K 4® by Witco, the disodium salt of a hemisulphosuccinate of C12-C14 alcohols, for example, sold under the name Setacin F Special Paste® by Zschimmer Schwarz, oxyethylenated (2 EO) disodium oleamidosulphosuccinate, such as the product sold under the name Standapol SH 135® by Cognis, oxyethylenated (5 EO) lauramide monosulphosuccinate, for example, sold under the name Lebon A-5000® by Sanyo, the disodium salt of oxyethylenated (10 EO) lauryl citrate monosulphosuccinate, for example,
  • Use may also be made of polydimethylsiloxane sulphosuccinates, such as disodium PEG-12 dimethicone sulphosuccinate, for example, sold under the name Mackanate-DC 30 by MacIntyre.
  • polydimethylsiloxane sulphosuccinates such as disodium PEG-12 dimethicone sulphosuccinate, for example, sold under the name Mackanate-DC 30 by MacIntyre.
  • alkyl sulphates for example, of triethanolamine lauryl sulphate (CTFA name: TEA lauryl sulphate), such as the product sold by Fluntsman under the name Empicol TL40 FL or the product sold by Cognis under the name Texapon T42, which products are at 40% in aqueous solution.
  • CTFA name ammonium lauryl sulphate
  • alkyl ether sulphates for example, of sodium lauryl ether sulphate (CTFA name: sodium laureth sulphate), such as that sold under the names Texapon N40 and Texapon AOS 225 UP by Cognis, or ammonium lauryl ether sulphate (CTFA name: ammonium laureth sulphate), such as that sold under the name Standapol EA-2 by Cognis.
  • CFA name sodium lauryl ether sulphate
  • CTFA name ammonium laureth sulphate
  • sulphonates for example, of a- olefinsulphonates, such as sodium a -olefin sulphonate (C14-C16), such as the product sold under the name Bio-Terge AS-40® by Stepan, sold under the names Witconate AOS Protege® and Sulframine AOS PH 12® by Witco or sold under the name Bio- Terge AS-40 CG® by Stepan, secondary sodium olefinsulphonate, for example, sold under the name Hostapur SAS 30® by Clariant; or linear alkylarylsulphonates, such as sodium xylenesulphonate, for example, sold under the names Manrosol SXS30®, Manrosol SXS40® and Manrosol SXS93® by Manro.
  • a- olefinsulphonates such as sodium a -olefin sulphonate (C14-C16)
  • C14-C16 -olefin
  • taurates of the sodium salt of palm kernel oil methyltaurate, for example, sold under the name Hostapon CT Pate ® by Clariant; N-acyl-N-methyl taurates, such as Sodium N-cocoyl-N-methyltaurate, for example, sold under the name Hostapon LT-SF® by Clariant or sold under the name Nikkol CMT-30-T® by Nikkol, or sodium palmi toyl methyltaurate, such as the one sold under the name Nikkol PMT® by Nikkol.
  • the preferred is sodium methyl stearoyl taurate (for example, Nikkol SMT Nikkol).
  • the anionic derivatives of alkyl polyglucosides can in particular be citrates, tartrates, sulphosuccinates, carbonates and glycerol ethers obtained from alkyl polyglucosides. Mention may be made, for example, of the sodium salt of cocoylpolyglucoside (1 ,4) tartaric ester, for example, sold under the name Eucarol AGE-ET® by Cesalpinia, the disodium salt of cocoylpolyglucoside (1 ,4) sulphosuccinic ester, such as the product sold under the name Essai 512 MP® by Seppic, or the sodium salt of cocoylpolyglucoside (1 ,4) citric ester, for example, sold under the name Eucarol AGE-EC® by Cesalpinia.
  • the anionic surfactants useful for the present invention are select from the group consisting of potassium cetyl phosphate, sodium methyl stearoyl taurate and mixtures thereof.
  • the composition of the present invention can also comprise at least one fatty compound selected from the group consisting of oils, waxes, fatty acids, fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof.
  • the fatty alcohols may have the structure R-OH wherein R is chosen from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched radicals containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms.
  • R may be chosen from C12-C20 alkyl and C12-C20 alkenyl groups. R may or may not be substituted with at least one hydroxyl group.
  • fatty alcohol examples include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
  • the fatty acids used in the context of the invention are more particularly chosen from carboxylic acids, saturated or unsaturated, having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 9 to 30 carbon atoms. They are advantageously chosen from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and isostearic acid.
  • Suitable polymers include but are not limited to polylactic acid (PLA), xanthan gum, poly C10-30 alkyl acrylate, acrylates/Cio-C3o alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, styrene/acrylates copolymer, lauryl methacrylate/glycol dimethacrylate crosspolymer, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer, dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate, aluminum starch octenylsuccinate and mixtures thereof.
  • PLA polylactic acid
  • xanthan gum poly C10-30 alkyl acrylate
  • acrylates/Cio-C3o alkyl acrylate crosspolymer styrene/acrylates copolymer
  • lauryl methacrylate/glycol dimethacrylate crosspolymer lauryl methacrylate/gly
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises at least one polymer selected from the group consisting of polylactic acid (PLA), xanthan gum, poly C10-C30 alkyl acrylate, acrylates/Cio-C3o alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, styrene/acrylates copolymer, lauryl methacrylate/glycol dimethacrylate crosspolymer, ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer and dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer.
  • PLA polylactic acid
  • xanthan gum poly C10-C30 alkyl acrylate
  • acrylates/Cio-C3o alkyl acrylate crosspolymer acrylates/Cio-C3o alkyl acrylate crosspolymer
  • styrene/acrylates copolymer lauryl methacrylate/glycol
  • Non-limiting example of preservatives which can be used in accordance with the invention include phenoxyethanol and salicylic acid.
  • Suitable fillers of the invention could be silicas, including silica silylate, mica, magnesium oxide, nylon-12, nylon-66, cellulose, talc, talc (and) methicone, talc (and) dimethicone, perlite, sodium silicate, pumice, PTFE, polymethyl methacrylate, alumina, calcium sodium borosilicate, magnesium carbonate.
  • Suitable additional solvents include but are not limited to short-chain alcohols such as ethanol, glycols and polyols such as glycerin, caprylyl glycol, pentylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.
  • Suitable additional actives include, but are not limited to, disodium EDTA, triethanolamine, capryloyl salicylic acid, hydroxyethylpiperazine ethane sulfonic acid and mixtures thereof.
  • silicones used in the composition of the present invention are, but not limited to, dimethicone, caprylyl methicone, vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer and mixtures thereof.
  • Non-limiting example of vitamins suitable for the composition of the present invention includes tocopherol and niacinamide.
  • the additional ingredients may represent from about 1% to about 90% by weight, preferably from about 5% by weight to about 80% by weight, more preferably from about 10% to about 70% by weight, even more preferably from about 15% to about 60% by weight, better still from about 20% by weight to about 50% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition of the invention.
  • compositions according to the present invention were prepared according to the following steps:
  • compositions according to the present invention are those represented in examples 2, 3 and 4.
  • the stability of the composition according to example 2 was conducted under different operating conditions in a glass packaging: at room temperature and in a chamber at 45 °C.
  • To the organoleptic and physical-chemical controls (including appearance, color, odor, viscosity) were carried out.
  • the results were compared to a satisfactory standard (standard at To). Particularly for the pH, viscosity and UV filter dosage, satisfactory standard values were stablished.
  • the microscopic aspect was also evaluated with microscopy in order to verify if saturated dioic acid crystals were formed over time. Microscopy images were taken at To and 5 months after fabrication under storage at room temperature (TSM).

Abstract

La présente invention concerne une composition cosmétique, en particulier une émulsion huile dans eau, comprenant au moins un acide dioïque insaturé, un système de filtre UV, un benzoate d'alkyle en C12-C15 et de l'eau. En particulier, l'acide dioïque insaturé est l'acide octadécènedioïque. La présente invention concerne également des utilisations de la composition cosmétique en tant que produit quotidien d'écran solaire, en tant que produit pour éclaircir la peau, en tant que produit pour la prévention et/ou le traitement de la pigmentation indésirable de la peau ou en tant que produit pour la prévention et/ou le traitement de l'acné.
PCT/BR2020/050190 2020-05-29 2020-05-29 Composition cosmétique comprenant de l'acide dioïque insaturé et ses utilisations WO2021237318A1 (fr)

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BR112022012785A BR112022012785A2 (pt) 2020-05-29 2020-05-29 Composições cosméticas e usos da composição cosmética
PCT/BR2020/050190 WO2021237318A1 (fr) 2020-05-29 2020-05-29 Composition cosmétique comprenant de l'acide dioïque insaturé et ses utilisations
FR2008776A FR3110844B1 (fr) 2020-05-29 2020-08-28 Composition cosmétique comprenant de l’acide dioïque insaturé et ses utilisations

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US20050031556A1 (en) * 2001-12-20 2005-02-10 Beiersdorf Ag Cosmetic or dermatological light-protective formulation comprising a hydroxybenzophenone and a benzoxazole derivative
US20080181920A1 (en) * 2007-01-25 2008-07-31 Beiersdorf Ag Cosmetic preparation against skin pigmentation
WO2011101258A2 (fr) * 2010-02-17 2011-08-25 Beiersdorf Ag Préparations cosmétiques ayant un potentiel de protection contre la lumière amélioré

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US2463264A (en) 1942-12-23 1949-03-01 Ciba Ltd Derivatives of cyclic amidines and process of making same
US5240975A (en) 1988-04-11 1993-08-31 Ciba-Geigy Corporation Liquid substituted 2H-benzotriazole mixtures, stabilized compositions
US5237071A (en) 1991-01-22 1993-08-17 Fairmount Chemical Company, Inc. Process for preparing 2,2'-methylene-bis(6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-hydrocarbyl phenols)
US5166355A (en) 1991-02-04 1992-11-24 Fairmount Chemical Co., Inc. Process for preparing substituted 2,2'-methylene-bis-[6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-hydrocarbyl-phenols]
WO1993004665A1 (fr) 1991-08-29 1993-03-18 L'oreal Composition cosmetique filtrante contenant un polymere filtre liposoluble a structure hydrocarbonee et une silicone filtre
EP0669323A1 (fr) 1994-02-24 1995-08-30 Haarmann & Reimer Gmbh Utilisation de benzazolen comme absorbeurs d'UV nouveaux benzazoles et procédé pour les préparation
GB2303549A (en) 1995-07-22 1997-02-26 Ciba Geigy Ag Micronising organic UV absorbers with alkyl polyglucosides
DE19726184A1 (de) 1997-06-20 1998-12-24 Beiersdorf Ag Kosmetische und dermatologische Lichtschutzformulierungen in Form von Emulsionen, insbesondere O/W-Makroemulsionen, O/W-Mikroemulsionen oder O/W/O-Emulsionen, mit einem Gehalt an lichtschutzwirksamen Benzotriazolderivaten
EP0893119A1 (fr) 1997-07-26 1999-01-27 Ciba SC Holding AG Formulation protectrice contre UV
DE19855649A1 (de) 1998-12-03 2000-06-08 Basf Ag Dimere alpha-Alkyl-Styrolderivate als photostabile UV-Filter in kosmetischen und pharmazeutischen Zubereitungen
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US20050019279A1 (en) * 2001-11-09 2005-01-27 Beiersdorf Ag Cosmetic or dermatological preparation containing an octadecene dioic acid and a UV filtering substance
US20050031556A1 (en) * 2001-12-20 2005-02-10 Beiersdorf Ag Cosmetic or dermatological light-protective formulation comprising a hydroxybenzophenone and a benzoxazole derivative
US20080181920A1 (en) * 2007-01-25 2008-07-31 Beiersdorf Ag Cosmetic preparation against skin pigmentation
WO2011101258A2 (fr) * 2010-02-17 2011-08-25 Beiersdorf Ag Préparations cosmétiques ayant un potentiel de protection contre la lumière amélioré

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FR3110844A1 (fr) 2021-12-03
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