WO2021236927A1 - Silicone-free conditioning cleansing composition - Google Patents
Silicone-free conditioning cleansing composition Download PDFInfo
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- WO2021236927A1 WO2021236927A1 PCT/US2021/033398 US2021033398W WO2021236927A1 WO 2021236927 A1 WO2021236927 A1 WO 2021236927A1 US 2021033398 W US2021033398 W US 2021033398W WO 2021236927 A1 WO2021236927 A1 WO 2021236927A1
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- cleansing composition
- sophorolipid
- composition
- cleansing
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- CXQXSVUQTKDNFP-UHFFFAOYSA-N octamethyltrisiloxane Chemical class C[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)C CXQXSVUQTKDNFP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- FMJSMJQBSVNSBF-UHFFFAOYSA-N octocrylene Chemical group C=1C=CC=CC=1C(=C(C#N)C(=O)OCC(CC)CCCC)C1=CC=CC=C1 FMJSMJQBSVNSBF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- DXGLGDHPHMLXJC-UHFFFAOYSA-N oxybenzone Chemical compound OC1=CC(OC)=CC=C1C(=O)C1=CC=CC=C1 DXGLGDHPHMLXJC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- YWIVKILSMZOHHF-QJZPQSOGSA-N sodium;(2s,3s,4s,5r,6r)-6-[(2s,3r,4r,5s,6r)-3-acetamido-2-[(2s,3s,4r,5r,6r)-6-[(2r,3r,4r,5s,6r)-3-acetamido-2,5-dihydroxy-6-(hydroxymethyl)oxan-4-yl]oxy-2-carboxy-4,5-dihydroxyoxan-3-yl]oxy-5-hydroxy-6-(hydroxymethyl)oxan-4-yl]oxy-3,4,5-trihydroxyoxane-2- Chemical class [Na+].CC(=O)N[C@H]1[C@H](O)O[C@H](CO)[C@@H](O)[C@@H]1O[C@H]1[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O[C@H]2[C@@H]([C@@H](O[C@H]3[C@@H]([C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H](O3)C(O)=O)O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O2)NC(C)=O)[C@@H](C(O)=O)O1 YWIVKILSMZOHHF-QJZPQSOGSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- WBYWAXJHAXSJNI-VOTSOKGWSA-M trans-cinnamate Chemical compound [O-]C(=O)\C=C\C1=CC=CC=C1 WBYWAXJHAXSJNI-VOTSOKGWSA-M 0.000 description 1
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Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
- A61K8/602—Glycosides, e.g. rutin
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
- A61K8/735—Mucopolysaccharides, e.g. hyaluronic acid; Derivatives thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/10—Washing or bathing preparations
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/59—Mixtures
- A61K2800/592—Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions
- A61K2800/5922—At least two compounds being classified in the same subclass of A61K8/18
Definitions
- the present disclosure is related to cleansing compositions and more particularly, to silicone-free, natural, conditioning cleansing compositions for keratin substrates.
- the SLES/CAPB cleansing compositions require thickening agents such as sodium chloride or synthetic thickeners such as cross-linked polyacrylates, known as Carbopol.
- thickening agents such as sodium chloride or synthetic thickeners such as cross-linked polyacrylates, known as Carbopol.
- these thickening mechanisms rely on electrostatic interactions and are impacted by formulation pH and the presence of any other additional electrolytes.
- compositions of the present disclosure may include non-toxic, antimicrobial biosurfactants.
- the composition of the present disclosure may include biosurfactants such as hydrophilic biosurfactants, known as rhamnolipids and/or hydrophobic biosurfactants, known as sophorolipids, which are not only biodegradable but also milder to skin, hair and other keratin substrates.
- the compositions of the present disclosure may include hyaluronic acid (HA).
- HA works as a conditioning agent and a rheology modifier which provides the ideal viscosity and rheology to the presently disclosed fully natural cleansing composition.
- compositions of the present disclosure may include at least one of a rhamnolipid and sophorolipid that give rise to a high cleansing efficacy of the composition and hyaluronic acid (HA) that provides conditioning benefits to keratin substrates such as skin, hair, and scalp.
- HA hyaluronic acid
- the compositions of the present disclosure may include a combination of biosurfactant mixtures and may include a mixture of at least one rhamnolipid and at least one sophorolipid.
- the compositions of the present disclosure may include a biosurfactant mixture and hyaluronic acid.
- the composition of the present disclosure may include a rhamnolipids mixture that includes at least one or both mono- rhamnolipids (RL1) and di -rhamnolipids (RL2) at desired weight percents.
- the composition of the present disclosure may include a lactonic form of sophorolipids (LS) at a desired weight percent.
- the composition of the present disclosure may include an acidic form of sophorolipids at a desired weight percent.
- composition of the present disclosure may include HA introduced to the biosurfactants system as a conditioning agent and a rheology modifier to increase system viscosity for better sensory upon application.
- HA introduced to the biosurfactants system as a conditioning agent and a rheology modifier to increase system viscosity for better sensory upon application.
- the present disclosure relates to compositions that provide shine and/or gloss to hair.
- the compositions of the present disclosure provide for high moisturizing effects without the presence of residue, while at the same time outperforming conventional silicone-based products on hold and style retention. Furthermore, the present compositions provide desired rheological profile and foaming ability for efficient and thorough cleansing of the substrate.
- the present compositions may include one or more biosurfactants.
- Biosurfactants are substances that are formed by microorganisms and often are also secreted from the cell. Like traditional surfactants, biosurfactants are surface-active substances that lower the surface tension of liquids and thereby promote the mixing of aqueous, hydrophilic and water- repelling, hydrophobic phases.
- Biosurfactants can be produced under mild production conditions and have low energy consumption. They are easily biodegradable and have high environmental compatibility. Moreover, they are not toxic, and no toxic by-products are generated during production of the same.
- Raw materials used for the microbial production of the same are carbohydrates, in particular sugar such as glucose, and/or lipophilic carbon sources such as fats, oils, partial glycerides, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, long-chain saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbons.
- the biosurfactants may be biosurfactants produced by fermentation, a microbially- derived biosurfactant. Additionally, there are biobased surfactants which are surfactants obtained from processing of sugars, starches, and carbohydrates.
- the biosurfactants may include at least one of glycolipids, lipopeptides, lipoproteins, fatty acids, phospholipids, neutral lipids, sugar surfactants derived from cellulosic sugar or glucose from sugar cane, corn starch and other renewable carbohydrate sources combined with fatty alcohols derived from coconut or palm oil, and polymeric surfactants, i.e, emulsan.
- the biosurfactant may comprise a glycolipid biosurfactant which may be a rhamnolipid, a sophorolipid, a trehalolipid, an alkyl polyglucoside, a mannosylerythritol lipid (MEL), and combinations thereof.
- Glycolipids are compounds in which one or more monosaccharide units are linked by glycosidic bonds to a lipid component.
- Rhamnolipids are produced by bacteria of the Pseudomonas genus, such as Pseudomonas aeruginosa or Pseudomonas burkholderia, when grown on hydrophobic substrates such as n- alkanes or vegetable oils.
- various species of P. burkholderia have been shown to produce rhamnolipids that have longer alkyl chains than those produced by P. aeruginosa.
- Further glycolipids, such as glucose lipids, cellobiose lipids or trehalose lipids are produced by different microorganisms on various substrates.
- mannosylerythritol lipids are produced by bacteria of the Pseudozyma sp. Candida antarctica and Ustilago sp.
- Rhamnolipids have the following general formula (1) below, where m is 2, 1 or 0, and n is 1 or 0:
- R 1 and R 2 independently of one another, are an identical or different organic group having 2 to 24 carbon atoms, a substituted or unsubstituted, branched or unbranched alkyl group, which may also be unsaturated, wherein the alkyl group is a linear saturated alkyl group having 8 to 12 carbon atoms. Salts of these compounds are also contemplated by the present disclosure.
- the term “di-rhamnolipid” shall be understood to mean compounds of the above formula or the salts thereof, in which n is 1.
- “mono-rhamnolipid” shall be understood to mean compounds of the general formula or the salts thereof, in which n is 0.
- the composition may comprise at least one rhamnolipid.
- the at least one rhamnolipid is present in the composition from about 1 wt. % to about 16 wt. %, in further embodiments, from about 5 wt. % to about 10 wt% of the composition.
- mixtures of mono- and di-rhamnolipids may be used. If the rhamnolipid is a mixture of the mono and di forms, the mono form is present in amounts of 35 wt. % to about 45 wt. % in the mixture while the remainder of the rhamnolipid is present in di form in amounts of from about 55 wt. % to about 65 wt. % of the rhamnolipid mixture.
- Commercially available rhamnolipids may be from Evonik as Rhenance One and Stepan Company as NatSurFact CCB.
- the composition may comprise at least one sophorolipid.
- Sophorolipids are produced by fermentation using yeasts such as Candida bombicola (also known as Torulopsis bombicola ), Yarrowia lipolytica, Candida apicola ( Torulopsis apicola ), and Candida bogoriensis by growing these on sugars, hydrocarbons, vegetable oils or mixtures thereof.
- yeasts such as Candida bombicola (also known as Torulopsis bombicola ), Yarrowia lipolytica, Candida apicola ( Torulopsis apicola ), and Candida bogoriensis by growing these on sugars, hydrocarbons, vegetable oils or mixtures thereof.
- Sophorolipids have the below formulas (2) (lactone form) and (3) (free acid), wherein the two forms may be present in a mixture, where R 1 and R 1 , independently of one another, represent saturated hydrocarbon chains or monounsaturated or polyunsaturated, hydrocarbon chains having 8 to 20 carbon atoms, which may be linear or branched and may include one or more hydroxy groups, R 2 and R 2 , independently of one another, represent a hydrogen atom or a saturated alkyl group or a monounsaturated or polyunsaturated, in particular monounsaturated, alkyl group having 1 to 9 carbon atoms, which may be linear or branched and may include one or more hydroxy groups, and R 3 , R 3 , R 4 and R 4 , independently of one another, represent a hydrogen atom or an acetyl group.
- the at least one sophorolipid may be in the lactone form (2). In embodiments, the at least one sophorolipid may be in the acidic form (3). Other embodiments, may include a mixture of the acid form and the lactone form of sophorolipids. In embodiments, the at least one sophorolipid is present in the composition from about 1 wt. % to about 16 wt. %, in further embodiments, from about 5 wt. % to about 10 wt. % of the composition. If the sophorolipid is a mixture of the lactone and acid forms, the acid form is present in amounts of 30 wt. % to about 70 wt.
- sophorolipids may be from Evonik as Rewoferm SL One, and Holiferm (UK).
- the composition may comprise at least one alkyl polyglucoside.
- Biodegradable and plant-derived from sugars, these surfactants are usually glucose derivatives, and fatty alcohols.
- the raw materials are typically starch and fat, and the final products are typically complex mixtures of compounds with different sugars comprising the hydrophilic end and alkyl groups of variable length comprising the hydrophobic end.
- Alkyl polyglucosides are used to enhance the formation of foams in detergents. It is also used in the personal care industry because it is biodegradable and safe for sensitive skin.
- the at least one alkyl polyglucoside is present in the composition from about 1 wt. % to about 16 wt. %, in further embodiments, from about 5 wt. % to about 10 wt. % of the composition.
- the mixture of biosurfactants may be present from about 5 wt. % to about 20 wt. % of the composition. In further embodiments, the mixture of biosurfactants may be present from about 10 wt. % to about 16 wt. % of the composition.
- the mixture of biosurfactants may have a ratio of rhamnolipids to sophorolipids of at least one of 2:8, 3:7, 4:6, 5:5, 6:4, 7:3, and 8:2. In other embodiments, the ratio of rhamnolipids to sophorolipids is at least one of 4:6, 4.5: 5.5, 5:5, and 5.5:4.5.
- the biosurfactant may comprise any shear thinning biosurfactant, such as any shear thinning glycolipid biosurfactant mentioned above or any shear thinning cellobiose, peptide based biosurfactant, lipoprotein, lipopeptide, e.g. surfactin, fatty acids e.g. corynomucolic acids (with hydrocarbon chain C 12-04), phospholipids such as for example, phosphatidylethanolamine, spiculisporic acid, polymeric biosurfactants including emulsan, liposan, mannoprotein or polysaccharide-protein complexes or combinations thereof.
- any shear thinning biosurfactant such as any shear thinning glycolipid biosurfactant mentioned above or any shear thinning cellobiose, peptide based biosurfactant, lipoprotein, lipopeptide, e.g. surfactin, fatty acids e.g. corynomucolic acids (with hydrocarbon chain C 12-04
- the composition of the present disclosure may also include hyaluronic acid and/or derivates thereof.
- the “hyaluronan” or “hyaluronic acid” is acidic polysaccharides with different molecular weights constituted by residues of D-glucuronic and N-acetyl-D- glucosamine acids. Any source of the hyaluronic acid or its derivative can be used in the present disclosure. Rooster combs are a significant commercial source for hyaluronan. Microorganisms are an alternative source of hyaluronic acid, for example, via a fermentation method involving a strain of Streptococcus zooepidemicus.
- Hyaluronic acid or salts thereof may be recombinantly produced, e.g., in a Gram-positive Bacillus host. Under physiological conditions, this polysaccharide is found not in the acid form but in the form of a sodium salt, sodium hyaluronate and may include other salt forms such as with potassium, magnesium and calcium salts.
- the hyaluronic acid derivatives include, but are not limited to (1) the esters of hyaluronic acid, wherein part or all of the carboxy functions are esterified with alcohols of the aliphatic, aromatic, arylaliphatic, cycloaliphatic, heterocyclic series; (2) the autocross- linked esters of hyaluronic acid, wherein part or all of the carboxy groups are esterified with the alcoholic functions of the same polysaccharide chain or of other chains; (3) the cross-linked compounds of hyaluronic acid, wherein part of all of the carboxy groups are esterified with polyalcohols of the aliphatic, aromatic, arylaliphatic, cycloaliphatic, heterocyclic series, generating cross-linking by means of spacer chains; (4) the hemiesters of succinic acid or the heavy metal salts of the hemiester of succinic acid with hyaluronic acid or with partial or total esters of
- the hyaluronic acid or its derivative may be present in an amount from about 0.1% to about 2% by weight of the composition. In embodiments, the hyaluronic acid may be present in an amount from about 0.5% to about 1.5% by weight of the composition.
- the hyaluronic acid has an average molecular weight of from about 5 to about 1500 kDa. In further embodiments, the hyaluronic acid has an average molecular weight of from about 100 to about 1000 kDa.
- the pH of the present composition is from about 4 to about 7.5. In further embodiments, the pH is from about 5.5 to about 6.5.
- compositions of the present disclosure may be used in either a personal wash liquid cleansing base or in cosmetic composition base.
- the compositions may comprise pourable liquids and have a viscosity in the range 250 to 100,000 mPas (cP) measured at a shear rate 10s@-l and 25 DEG C, in a Haake Rotovi scorn eter RV20.
- Shampoo compositions are in the range 5000-8000 cP.
- the composition may take the form of a liquid, intended to be dispensed from a capped container such as a bottle, roll-on applicator or tube, or a pump-operated dispenser and may be a skin cleanser, shower product, bath additive or shampoo.
- compositions may be formulated as products for washing the skin, for example, bath or shower gels, hand washing compositions or facial washing liquids, pre- and post-shaving products, rinse-off, wipe-off and leave-on skin care products, products for washing the hair and for skin.
- compositions may comprise a thickening (or thinning) agent, i.e., a material which assists the rheology of the composition, by increasing or decreasing the viscosity of this phase as the shear rate thereof is increased during use.
- a thickening agent i.e., a material which assists the rheology of the composition, by increasing or decreasing the viscosity of this phase as the shear rate thereof is increased during use.
- examples of such agents include natural gums including alginates, guar, xanthan and polysaccharide derivatives including carboxy methyl cellulose and hydroxypropyl guar; glycerol tallowates; and mixtures thereof.
- these agents may comprise 1 % to 15% by wt. of the composition.
- the composition comprises a shear thinning characteristic including a viscosity range of from about 1000 to about 20,000 cps at a lower shear rate (1 to 10 1/s) and from about 10 to about 100 cps at a higher shear rate (10 5 -10 4 1/s).
- the composition comprises a surface tension from about 10 to about 60 mN/m. In embodiments, the composition comprises a surface tension from about 20 to about 40 mN/m.
- antimicrobials and antioxidants such as for example, but not limited to plant extracts, vitamin C, vitamin E, vitamin A, beta-carotene, selenium, coenzymeqlO, essential oil, citric acid, sorbic acid, and others known in the art.
- active ingredients may include sunscreens and minerals.
- Sunscreens include those materials commonly employed to block ultraviolet light.
- Illustrative compounds are the derivatives of PABA, cinnamate, and salicylate.
- octyl methoxycinnamate and 2-hydroxy-r- methoxy benzophenone (also known as oxybenzone) may be used.
- the amount of sunscreen employed in the emulsions can vary depending upon the degree of protection desired from the sun's UV radiation.
- Suitable physical sunscreen, chemical sunscreen, minerals and other actives include but are not limited to zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, octinoxate, homosalte, octisalate, octocrylene, avobenzone, mexoryl SX, iron, zinc, proteins, and others known in the art.
- actives will comprise 1 % to 30% by weight of the total composition.
- other optional ingredients are selected from essential fatty acids (EFAs), i.e., those fatty acids which are essential for the plasma membrane formation of all cells, in keratinocytes EFA deficiency makes cells hyperproliferative. Supplementation of EFAs may correct this deficiency and may also enhance lipid biosynthesis of epidermis and provide lipids for the barrier formation of the epidermis.
- EFAs essential fatty acids
- the essential fatty acids may include but are not limited to linoleic acid, gamma -linolenic acid, homo-gamma-linolenic acid, columbine acid, eicosa-(n-6, 9, 13)-trienoic acid, arachidonic acid, gamma-linolenic acid, timnodonic acid, hexaenoic acid and mixtures thereof.
- Natural emollients may be incorporated into compositions of the present disclosure. Levels of such emollients may range from about 0.5% to about 50%, by weight, in embodiments, from about 5% and 30% by weight of the total composition. Emollients may be classified under such general chemical categories as esters, fatty acids and alcohols, polyols and hydrocarbons. Natural emollients may be lanolin, cocoa butter, com oil, cotton seed oil, tallow, lard, olive oil, palm kernel oil, rapeseed oil, safflower seed oil, soybean oil, sunflower seed oil, olive oil, sesame seed oil, coconut oil, arachis oil, and castor oil.
- optional adjuncts may include vehicles, the selection of which will depend on the required product form of the composition.
- the vehicle when present will be chosen from diluents, dispersants or carriers for the ingredients so as to ensure an even distribution of it when applied to the skin or hair.
- compositions may include water as a vehicle either alone or in combination with at least one other cosmetically acceptable vehicle.
- Vehicles other than water that can be used in compositions according to the invention may include liquids or solids as emollients, solvents, humectants, thickeners and powders.
- the cosmetically acceptable vehicle when present, will usually be present in an amount from about 0.01 to 99.9% by weight, in embodiments, from about 50 to about 98% by weight of the composition, and can, in the absence of other cosmetic adjuncts, form the balance of the composition.
- the composition may contain other ingredients for enhancing performance and/or consumer acceptability.
- ingredients include fragrance, dyes and pigments, pH adjusting agents, pearlescers or opacifiers, viscosity modifiers, preservatives, and natural hair nutrients such as botanicals, fruit extracts, sugar derivatives and amino acids.
- a first composition was prepared with solely a biosurfactants mixture.
- the mixture included about 8 wt. % of solution RL1/RL2.
- About 8 wt. % of LS was added to the mixture and then mixed.
- About 2 wt. % sodium chloride and about 82 wt. % of deionized water was added after the addition of LS.
- Sodium hydroxide was added to the formulation to adjust pH to be about 7.5.
- a second composition was prepared about 8 wt. % of RL1/RL2 solution, about 8 wt. % LS, about 81 of water, about 2 wt. % salt and about 1 wt. % of HA.
- Sodium hydroxide was added to the formulation to adjust pH to be about 7.5.
- Table 1 illustrates the viscosity profile/ shear thinning characteristics of the two biosurfactant systems, one with and one without HA.
- the lower-case a and b in the legend represent different trials which indicated the data is reproduceable.
- the Table 1 data provides that the overall viscosity of the RL1/RL2/LS/HA composition is significantly higher than the composition without HA.
- a first composition of SLES/CAPB was prepared. SLES was provided in 8 wt. % and CAPB was added in an amount of about 2 wt. %, then mixed with about 88 wt. % deionized water and about 2 wt. % sodium chloride. Critic acid was added to adjust mixture pH to be about 7.5.
- a second composition was prepared with solely a biosurfactants mixture. The mixture included about 8 wt. % of solution RL1/RL2. About 8 wt. % of LS was added to the mixture and then mixed. About 2 wt. % sodium chloride and about 82 wt. % of deionized water was added after the addition of LS.
- Sodium hydroxide was added to the formulation to adjust pH to be about 7.5.
- a third composition was prepared about 8 wt. % of RL1/RL2 solution, about 8 wt. % LS, about 81 wt. % of water, about 2 wt. % salt and about 1 wt. % of HA.
- Sodium hydroxide was added to the formulation to adjust pH to be about 7.5.
- compositions of the present disclosure provide surface tension reduction effects comparable to the conventional SLES/CAPB compositions.
- the low surface tension of the RL1/RL2/LS/HA indicates that the composition has the ability to maintain foaming and have good foam quality.
- the addition of HA does not greatly change the surface tension reduction capability of the RL1/RL2/LS system as shown in Table 3 below, which shows the surface tension of biosurfactants system compared to model surfactant system. Table 3: Surface Tension
- composition of SLES/ CAPB and RL1/RL2/LS/HA prepared in Example B were shook 10 times at the same speed for the same amount of time to test foaming ability.
- compositions of the present disclosure provide a fully natural silicone free formulation for cleansing which achieves/exceeds similar level of performance in terms of conditioning, rheology build and foaming as current commercial formulations.
- the conventional formulations require significantly larger number of components to achieve similar benefits than the compositions of the present disclosure.
- the compositions of the present disclosure significantly reduces the number of required components and utilizes only purely, sustainable components.
- a first composition was prepared with about 10 wt. % of an acidic sophorolipid, about 90 wt. % of water, and 0 wt. % of HA.
- a second composition was prepared with about 10 wt. % of an acidic sophorolipid, about 89.5 wt. % of water, and about 0.5 wt. % of HA.
- a third composition was prepared with about 10 wt. % of an acidic sophorolipid, about 89 wt. % of water, and about 1.0 wt. % of HA.
- Citric acid was added to adjust the pH of each of the compositions to be about 6.5.
- Table 4 exhibits the viscosity profile/ shear thinning characteristics of the biosurfactant system of Example D, varying the weight percent of HA present. The data illustrates that as the concentration of HA is increased, the viscosity is increased as well, with 1% HA having the overall largest viscosity. Higher viscosity is often desired to increase sensory performance of the products when used by consumers.
- Table 6 exhibits the wet combing data results of the compositions prepared in Example D.
- the results illustrated the highly improved conditioning effects with the addition of HA with an acidic sophorolipid biosurfactant mixtures.
- the acidic sophorolipid solution with no HA had a reduction in wet combing forces of about 54.4%.
- the reduction increased to 66.7% culminating in a wet combing reduction of 71.9% for 1% HA.
- a commercially available sulfate-free shampoo which does not contain HA, was then compared to the three compositions.
- the wet combing reduction of the compositions all have at least doubled that of the sulfate-free shampoo.
- composition containing 1% HA had nearly tripled the wet combing reduction measured of the sulfate free shampoo.
- the large increase in reduction drastically improves the lubrication properties, reduces tangles found in the hair tresses and improves upon sensory performance properties.
- a first composition was prepared with about 10 wt. % of an alkyl polyglucoside, about 90 wt. % of water, and about 0 wt. % of HA.
- a second composition was prepared with about 10 wt. % of an alkyl polyglucoside, about 89.5 wt. % of water, and about 0.5 wt. % of HA.
- a third composition was prepared with about 10 wt. % of an alkyl polyglucoside, about 89 wt. % of water, and about 1.0 wt. % of HA.
- Table 7 exhibits the viscosity profile/ shear thinning characteristics of the biosurfactant system of Example E, varying the weight percent of HA present. The data illustrates that as the concentration of HA is increased, the viscosity is increased as well, with 1% HA having the overall largest viscosity. Higher viscosity is often desired to increase sensory performance of the products when used by consumers.
- TABLE 8 Surface Tension
- Table 9 exhibits the wet combing data results of the compositions prepared in Example E The results illustrated the highly improved conditioning effects with the addition of HA with an alkyl polyglucoside biosurfactant mixture.
- the alkyl polyglucoside solution with no HA had a reduction in wet combing forces of about 30.2%.
- the reduction increased to 42.4% culminating in a wet combing reduction of 48.7% for 1% HA, and compared with a commercially available product Sulfate Free Shampoo with a wet combing reduction of only 24.4%.
- the large increase in reduction drastically improves the lubrication properties, reduces tangles found in the hair tresses and improves upon sensory performance properties.
Abstract
A cleansing composition of the present disclosure may include at least one of a rhamnolipid and a sophorolipid, and hyaluronic acid, wherein the composition achieves high conditioning and comprises a desired rheological profile and foaming ability. The at least one of a rhamnolipid and a sophorolipid may be present in an amount of from 1 wt. % to about 16 wt. % of the composition. The composition may include a mixture of at least one rhamnolipid and at least one sophorolipid and a total weight percent of the at least one rhamnolipid and the at least one sophorolipid is present in an amount from about 5% to about 20% by weight of the composition.
Description
Silicone-free Conditioning Cleansing Composition
CROSS REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATIONS
[0001] The present application claims the benefit of and priority to U.S. Patent Application No. 63/027,669, filed May 20, 2020, the entire contents of which is incorporated herein by reference.
TECHNICAL FIELD
[0002] The present disclosure is related to cleansing compositions and more particularly, to silicone-free, natural, conditioning cleansing compositions for keratin substrates.
BACKGROUND
[0003] Natural personal care products are becoming more desired due to consumer’s increasing awareness on product sustainability and health concerns with the current products available on the market. Conventional cleansing compositions include harmful surfactants like sodium laureth sulfate (SLES) and cocamidopropyl betaine (CAPB). SLES/CAPB as the most used surfactant systems in shampoo formulations are synthetic surfactants that do not have any conditioning effect on hair by themselves. Therefore, additional cationic polymers and silicones, such as dimethicones, cyclomethicones, phenyltrimethicones and dimethicone copolyols, are added to these conventional formulations to provide the conditioning and shine benefits. These additional components are highly non sustainable, non-green ingredients either evaporating shortly after application or leaving a heavy oily residue on the hair, weighing the hair down and affecting styling of the hair.
[0004] Additionally, the SLES/CAPB cleansing compositions require thickening agents such as sodium chloride or synthetic thickeners such as cross-linked polyacrylates, known as Carbopol.
However, these thickening mechanisms rely on electrostatic interactions and are impacted by formulation pH and the presence of any other additional electrolytes.
[0005] Accordingly, consumers continue to desire new non-toxic, silicon-free formulations with conditioning and shine benefits which cannot be achieved in any current commercial cleansing formulations.
SUMMARY
[0006] A highly conditioning and fully natural composition which also builds up the appropriate high viscosity and shear thinning rheology for application as a cleansing composition is disclosed. Unlike the petroleum-derived and chemically synthesized surfactant based conventional hair care cleansing compositions, the compositions of the present disclosure may include non-toxic, antimicrobial biosurfactants. The composition of the present disclosure may include biosurfactants such as hydrophilic biosurfactants, known as rhamnolipids and/or hydrophobic biosurfactants, known as sophorolipids, which are not only biodegradable but also milder to skin, hair and other keratin substrates. In embodiments, the compositions of the present disclosure may include hyaluronic acid (HA). In embodiments, no additional polymers, surfactants, silicones, or thickening agents are required to be added to the compositions due to the natural conditioning/moisturizing benefit of hyaluronic acid. Meanwhile, HA works as a conditioning agent and a rheology modifier which provides the ideal viscosity and rheology to the presently disclosed fully natural cleansing composition.
[0007] Specifically, the compositions of the present disclosure may include at least one of a rhamnolipid and sophorolipid that give rise to a high cleansing efficacy of the composition and hyaluronic acid (HA) that provides conditioning benefits to keratin substrates such as skin, hair,
and scalp. In embodiments, the compositions of the present disclosure may include a combination of biosurfactant mixtures and may include a mixture of at least one rhamnolipid and at least one sophorolipid. In embodiments, the compositions of the present disclosure may include a biosurfactant mixture and hyaluronic acid. In embodiments, the composition of the present disclosure may include a rhamnolipids mixture that includes at least one or both mono- rhamnolipids (RL1) and di -rhamnolipids (RL2) at desired weight percents. In embodiments, the composition of the present disclosure may include a lactonic form of sophorolipids (LS) at a desired weight percent. In embodiments, the composition of the present disclosure may include an acidic form of sophorolipids at a desired weight percent.
[0008] In embodiments, the composition of the present disclosure may include HA introduced to the biosurfactants system as a conditioning agent and a rheology modifier to increase system viscosity for better sensory upon application. DETAILED DESCRIPTION
[0009] The following detailed description is merely exemplary in nature and is not intended to limit the disclosure or the application and uses of the disclosure. Furthermore, there is no intention to be bound by any theory presented in the preceding background of the invention or the following detailed description of the disclosure.
[0010] The present disclosure relates to compositions that provide shine and/or gloss to hair. The compositions of the present disclosure provide for high moisturizing effects without the presence of residue, while at the same time outperforming conventional silicone-based products on hold and style retention. Furthermore, the present compositions provide desired rheological profile and foaming ability for efficient and thorough cleansing of the substrate.
[0011] In embodiments, the present compositions may include one or more biosurfactants. Biosurfactants are substances that are formed by microorganisms and often are also secreted from the cell. Like traditional surfactants, biosurfactants are surface-active substances that lower the surface tension of liquids and thereby promote the mixing of aqueous, hydrophilic and water- repelling, hydrophobic phases. Biosurfactants can be produced under mild production conditions and have low energy consumption. They are easily biodegradable and have high environmental compatibility. Moreover, they are not toxic, and no toxic by-products are generated during production of the same. Raw materials used for the microbial production of the same are carbohydrates, in particular sugar such as glucose, and/or lipophilic carbon sources such as fats, oils, partial glycerides, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, long-chain saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbons. The biosurfactants may be biosurfactants produced by fermentation, a microbially- derived biosurfactant. Additionally, there are biobased surfactants which are surfactants obtained from processing of sugars, starches, and carbohydrates.
[0012] In embodiments, the biosurfactants may include at least one of glycolipids, lipopeptides, lipoproteins, fatty acids, phospholipids, neutral lipids, sugar surfactants derived from cellulosic sugar or glucose from sugar cane, corn starch and other renewable carbohydrate sources combined with fatty alcohols derived from coconut or palm oil, and polymeric surfactants, i.e, emulsan.
[0013] In embodiments, the biosurfactant may comprise a glycolipid biosurfactant which may be a rhamnolipid, a sophorolipid, a trehalolipid, an alkyl polyglucoside, a mannosylerythritol lipid (MEL), and combinations thereof. Glycolipids are compounds in which one or more monosaccharide units are linked by glycosidic bonds to a lipid component.
[0014] Rhamnolipids are produced by bacteria of the Pseudomonas genus, such as Pseudomonas aeruginosa or Pseudomonas burkholderia, when grown on hydrophobic substrates such as n- alkanes or vegetable oils. In embodiments, various species of P. burkholderia have been shown to produce rhamnolipids that have longer alkyl chains than those produced by P. aeruginosa. Further glycolipids, such as glucose lipids, cellobiose lipids or trehalose lipids, are produced by different microorganisms on various substrates. Furthermore, mannosylerythritol lipids are produced by bacteria of the Pseudozyma sp. Candida antarctica and Ustilago sp.
[0015] Rhamnolipids have the following general formula (1) below, where m is 2, 1 or 0, and n is 1 or 0:
R1 and R2, independently of one another, are an identical or different organic group having 2 to 24 carbon atoms, a substituted or unsubstituted, branched or unbranched alkyl group, which may also be unsaturated, wherein the alkyl group is a linear saturated alkyl group having 8 to 12 carbon atoms. Salts of these compounds are also contemplated by the present disclosure.
[0016] The term “di-rhamnolipid” shall be understood to mean compounds of the above formula or the salts thereof, in which n is 1. Correspondingly, “mono-rhamnolipid” shall be understood to mean compounds of the general formula or the salts thereof, in which n is 0.
[0017] In embodiments, the composition may comprise at least one rhamnolipid. In embodiments, the at least one rhamnolipid is present in the composition from about 1 wt. % to about 16 wt. %, in further embodiments, from about 5 wt. % to about 10 wt% of the composition.
[0018] In embodiments, mixtures of mono- and di-rhamnolipids may be used. If the rhamnolipid is a mixture of the mono and di forms, the mono form is present in amounts of 35 wt. % to about 45 wt. % in the mixture while the remainder of the rhamnolipid is present in di form in amounts of from about 55 wt. % to about 65 wt. % of the rhamnolipid mixture. Commercially available rhamnolipids may be from Evonik as Rhenance One and Stepan Company as NatSurFact CCB. [0019] In embodiments, the composition may comprise at least one sophorolipid. Sophorolipids are produced by fermentation using yeasts such as Candida bombicola (also known as Torulopsis bombicola ), Yarrowia lipolytica, Candida apicola ( Torulopsis apicola ), and Candida bogoriensis by growing these on sugars, hydrocarbons, vegetable oils or mixtures thereof.
[0020] Sophorolipids have the below formulas (2) (lactone form) and (3) (free acid), wherein the two forms may be present in a mixture,
where R1 and R1, independently of one another, represent saturated hydrocarbon chains or monounsaturated or polyunsaturated, hydrocarbon chains having 8 to 20 carbon atoms, which may be linear or branched and may include one or more hydroxy groups, R2 and R2 , independently of one another, represent a hydrogen atom or a saturated alkyl group or a monounsaturated or polyunsaturated, in particular monounsaturated, alkyl group having 1 to 9 carbon atoms, which may be linear or branched and may include one or more hydroxy groups, and R3, R3 , R4 and R4, independently of one another, represent a hydrogen atom or an acetyl group.
[0021] In embodiments, the at least one sophorolipid may be in the lactone form (2). In embodiments, the at least one sophorolipid may be in the acidic form (3). Other embodiments, may include a mixture of the acid form and the lactone form of sophorolipids. In embodiments, the at least one sophorolipid is present in the composition from about 1 wt. % to about 16 wt. %, in further embodiments, from about 5 wt. % to about 10 wt. % of the composition. If the sophorolipid is a mixture of the lactone and acid forms, the acid form is present in amounts of 30 wt. % to about 70 wt. % in the mixture while the remainder of the sophorolipid is present in lactone form in amounts of from about 30 wt. % to about 70 wt. % of the sophorolipid mixture.
Commercially available sophorolipids may be from Evonik as Rewoferm SL One, and Holiferm (UK).
[0022] In embodiments, the composition may comprise at least one alkyl polyglucoside. Biodegradable and plant-derived from sugars, these surfactants are usually glucose derivatives, and fatty alcohols. The raw materials are typically starch and fat, and the final products are typically complex mixtures of compounds with different sugars comprising the hydrophilic end and alkyl groups of variable length comprising the hydrophobic end. Alkyl polyglucosides are used to enhance the formation of foams in detergents. It is also used in the personal care industry because it is biodegradable and safe for sensitive skin. In embodiments, the at least one alkyl polyglucoside is present in the composition from about 1 wt. % to about 16 wt. %, in further embodiments, from about 5 wt. % to about 10 wt. % of the composition.
[0023] In embodiments, the mixture of biosurfactants may be present from about 5 wt. % to about 20 wt. % of the composition. In further embodiments, the mixture of biosurfactants may be present from about 10 wt. % to about 16 wt. % of the composition.
[0024] In embodiments, the mixture of biosurfactants may have a ratio of rhamnolipids to sophorolipids of at least one of 2:8, 3:7, 4:6, 5:5, 6:4, 7:3, and 8:2. In other embodiments, the ratio of rhamnolipids to sophorolipids is at least one of 4:6, 4.5: 5.5, 5:5, and 5.5:4.5.
[0025] Alternatively or additionally, in embodiments, the biosurfactant may comprise any shear thinning biosurfactant, such as any shear thinning glycolipid biosurfactant mentioned above or any shear thinning cellobiose, peptide based biosurfactant, lipoprotein, lipopeptide, e.g. surfactin, fatty acids e.g. corynomucolic acids (with hydrocarbon chain C 12-04), phospholipids such as for example, phosphatidylethanolamine, spiculisporic acid, polymeric biosurfactants including emulsan, liposan, mannoprotein or polysaccharide-protein complexes or combinations thereof.
[0026] In embodiments, the composition of the present disclosure may also include hyaluronic acid and/or derivates thereof. The “hyaluronan” or “hyaluronic acid” is acidic polysaccharides with different molecular weights constituted by residues of D-glucuronic and N-acetyl-D- glucosamine acids. Any source of the hyaluronic acid or its derivative can be used in the present disclosure. Rooster combs are a significant commercial source for hyaluronan. Microorganisms are an alternative source of hyaluronic acid, for example, via a fermentation method involving a strain of Streptococcus zooepidemicus. Hyaluronic acid or salts thereof may be recombinantly produced, e.g., in a Gram-positive Bacillus host. Under physiological conditions, this polysaccharide is found not in the acid form but in the form of a sodium salt, sodium hyaluronate and may include other salt forms such as with potassium, magnesium and calcium salts.
[0027] In embodiments, the hyaluronic acid derivatives include, but are not limited to (1) the esters of hyaluronic acid, wherein part or all of the carboxy functions are esterified with alcohols of the aliphatic, aromatic, arylaliphatic, cycloaliphatic, heterocyclic series; (2) the autocross- linked esters of hyaluronic acid, wherein part or all of the carboxy groups are esterified with the alcoholic functions of the same polysaccharide chain or of other chains; (3) the cross-linked compounds of hyaluronic acid, wherein part of all of the carboxy groups are esterified with polyalcohols of the aliphatic, aromatic, arylaliphatic, cycloaliphatic, heterocyclic series, generating cross-linking by means of spacer chains; (4) the hemiesters of succinic acid or the heavy metal salts of the hemiester of succinic acid with hyaluronic acid or with partial or total esters of hyaluronic acid; (5) the O-sulphated derivative or O/N-sulphated derivatives; and (6) the amidic derivatives of hyaluronic acid or of the above-listed compounds.
[0028] In embodiments, the hyaluronic acid or its derivative may be present in an amount from about 0.1% to about 2% by weight of the composition. In embodiments, the hyaluronic acid may be present in an amount from about 0.5% to about 1.5% by weight of the composition.
[0029] In embodiments, the hyaluronic acid has an average molecular weight of from about 5 to about 1500 kDa. In further embodiments, the hyaluronic acid has an average molecular weight of from about 100 to about 1000 kDa.
[0030] In embodiments, the pH of the present composition is from about 4 to about 7.5. In further embodiments, the pH is from about 5.5 to about 6.5.
[0031] Compositions of the present disclosure may be used in either a personal wash liquid cleansing base or in cosmetic composition base. The compositions may comprise pourable liquids and have a viscosity in the range 250 to 100,000 mPas (cP) measured at a shear rate 10s@-l and 25 DEG C, in a Haake Rotovi scorn eter RV20. Shampoo compositions are in the range 5000-8000 cP. The composition may take the form of a liquid, intended to be dispensed from a capped container such as a bottle, roll-on applicator or tube, or a pump-operated dispenser and may be a skin cleanser, shower product, bath additive or shampoo. The compositions may be formulated as products for washing the skin, for example, bath or shower gels, hand washing compositions or facial washing liquids, pre- and post-shaving products, rinse-off, wipe-off and leave-on skin care products, products for washing the hair and for skin.
[0032] The compositions may comprise a thickening (or thinning) agent, i.e., a material which assists the rheology of the composition, by increasing or decreasing the viscosity of this phase as the shear rate thereof is increased during use. Examples of such agents include natural gums including alginates, guar, xanthan and polysaccharide derivatives including carboxy methyl
cellulose and hydroxypropyl guar; glycerol tallowates; and mixtures thereof. In embodiments, these agents may comprise 1 % to 15% by wt. of the composition.
[0033] In embodiments, the composition comprises a shear thinning characteristic including a viscosity range of from about 1000 to about 20,000 cps at a lower shear rate (1 to 10 1/s) and from about 10 to about 100 cps at a higher shear rate (105-1041/s).
[0034] In embodiments, the composition comprises a surface tension from about 10 to about 60 mN/m. In embodiments, the composition comprises a surface tension from about 20 to about 40 mN/m.
[0035] Other ingredients which may be found in such personal care compositions are antimicrobials and antioxidants, such as for example, but not limited to plant extracts, vitamin C, vitamin E, vitamin A, beta-carotene, selenium, coenzymeqlO, essential oil, citric acid, sorbic acid, and others known in the art.
[0036] Various types of active ingredients may be present in the composition. Examples of active ingredients may include sunscreens and minerals. Sunscreens include those materials commonly employed to block ultraviolet light. Illustrative compounds are the derivatives of PABA, cinnamate, and salicylate. For example, octyl methoxycinnamate and 2-hydroxy-r- methoxy benzophenone (also known as oxybenzone), and zinc oxide may be used. The amount of sunscreen employed in the emulsions can vary depending upon the degree of protection desired from the sun's UV radiation. Suitable physical sunscreen, chemical sunscreen, minerals and other actives include but are not limited to zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, octinoxate, homosalte, octisalate, octocrylene, avobenzone, mexoryl SX, iron, zinc, proteins, and others known in the art.
[0037] Typically, actives will comprise 1 % to 30% by weight of the total composition.
[0038] In embodiments, other optional ingredients are selected from essential fatty acids (EFAs), i.e., those fatty acids which are essential for the plasma membrane formation of all cells, in keratinocytes EFA deficiency makes cells hyperproliferative. Supplementation of EFAs may correct this deficiency and may also enhance lipid biosynthesis of epidermis and provide lipids for the barrier formation of the epidermis. The essential fatty acids may include but are not limited to linoleic acid, gamma -linolenic acid, homo-gamma-linolenic acid, columbine acid, eicosa-(n-6, 9, 13)-trienoic acid, arachidonic acid, gamma-linolenic acid, timnodonic acid, hexaenoic acid and mixtures thereof.
[0039] Natural emollients may be incorporated into compositions of the present disclosure. Levels of such emollients may range from about 0.5% to about 50%, by weight, in embodiments, from about 5% and 30% by weight of the total composition. Emollients may be classified under such general chemical categories as esters, fatty acids and alcohols, polyols and hydrocarbons. Natural emollients may be lanolin, cocoa butter, com oil, cotton seed oil, tallow, lard, olive oil, palm kernel oil, rapeseed oil, safflower seed oil, soybean oil, sunflower seed oil, olive oil, sesame seed oil, coconut oil, arachis oil, and castor oil.
[0040] Examples of optional adjuncts may include vehicles, the selection of which will depend on the required product form of the composition. Typically, the vehicle when present, will be chosen from diluents, dispersants or carriers for the ingredients so as to ensure an even distribution of it when applied to the skin or hair.
[0041] The compositions may include water as a vehicle either alone or in combination with at least one other cosmetically acceptable vehicle. Vehicles other than water that can be used in compositions according to the invention may include liquids or solids as emollients, solvents, humectants, thickeners and powders. The cosmetically acceptable vehicle, when present, will
usually be present in an amount from about 0.01 to 99.9% by weight, in embodiments, from about 50 to about 98% by weight of the composition, and can, in the absence of other cosmetic adjuncts, form the balance of the composition.
[0042] The composition may contain other ingredients for enhancing performance and/or consumer acceptability. Such ingredients include fragrance, dyes and pigments, pH adjusting agents, pearlescers or opacifiers, viscosity modifiers, preservatives, and natural hair nutrients such as botanicals, fruit extracts, sugar derivatives and amino acids.
EXAMPLES
[0043] Examples will now be illustrated with reference to the following non-limiting Examples.
Example A
[0044] A first composition was prepared with solely a biosurfactants mixture. The mixture included about 8 wt. % of solution RL1/RL2. About 8 wt. % of LS was added to the mixture and then mixed. About 2 wt. % sodium chloride and about 82 wt. % of deionized water was added after the addition of LS. Sodium hydroxide was added to the formulation to adjust pH to be about 7.5. A second composition was prepared about 8 wt. % of RL1/RL2 solution, about 8 wt. % LS, about 81 of water, about 2 wt. % salt and about 1 wt. % of HA. Sodium hydroxide was added to the formulation to adjust pH to be about 7.5.
[0045] Table 1 below illustrates the viscosity profile/ shear thinning characteristics of the two biosurfactant systems, one with and one without HA. The lower-case a and b in the legend represent different trials which indicated the data is reproduceable. The Table 1 data provides that the overall viscosity of the RL1/RL2/LS/HA composition is significantly higher than the composition without HA.
Example B
[0046] A first composition of SLES/CAPB was prepared. SLES was provided in 8 wt. % and CAPB was added in an amount of about 2 wt. %, then mixed with about 88 wt. % deionized water and about 2 wt. % sodium chloride. Critic acid was added to adjust mixture pH to be about 7.5. A second composition was prepared with solely a biosurfactants mixture. The mixture included about 8 wt. % of solution RL1/RL2. About 8 wt. % of LS was added to the mixture and then mixed. About 2 wt. % sodium chloride and about 82 wt. % of deionized water was added after the addition of LS. Sodium hydroxide was added to the formulation to adjust pH to be about 7.5. A third composition was prepared about 8 wt. % of RL1/RL2 solution, about 8 wt. % LS,
about 81 wt. % of water, about 2 wt. % salt and about 1 wt. % of HA. Sodium hydroxide was added to the formulation to adjust pH to be about 7.5.
[0047] The combing test of the three formulations were tested and the results demonstrated the highly conditioning effects of HA with biosurfactant mixtures. As illustrated in Table 2 below, which shows changes in combing force in each formulation, the combing force of SLES/CAPB treated hair increased 31% while both RL1/RL2/LS and RL1/RL2/LS/HA decreased. RL1/RL2/LS treated hair decreased combing force by 42.3% and RL1/RL2/LS/HA system reduced combing force by 64.5%. The reduction in combing force highlights a very significant consumer benefit as the hair is well lubricated, giving strong conditioning benefit and very low hair damage due to tangling.
[0048] For consumers to have a good sensory experience and cleansing satisfaction, sufficient lathering and foaming performance is typically desired. Lather and foam are directly controlled by the surface tension of the composition. The compositions of the present disclosure provide surface tension reduction effects comparable to the conventional SLES/CAPB compositions. The low surface tension of the RL1/RL2/LS/HA indicates that the composition has the ability to maintain foaming and have good foam quality. Furthermore, the addition of HA does not greatly change the surface tension reduction capability of the RL1/RL2/LS system as shown in Table 3 below, which shows the surface tension of biosurfactants system compared to model surfactant system.
Table 3: Surface Tension
Example C
[0049] The composition of SLES/ CAPB and RL1/RL2/LS/HA prepared in Example B were shook 10 times at the same speed for the same amount of time to test foaming ability.
[0050] The data illustrates that very high conditioning performance and rheology build can be achieved through a fully natural composition of RL/LS/HA mixture in the appropriate ratios and weight percents. The compositions of the present disclosure further illustrate a similar level of foaming as the conventional, toxic SLES/CAPB compositions. Accordingly, the compositions of the present disclosure provide a fully natural silicone free formulation for cleansing which achieves/exceeds similar level of performance in terms of conditioning, rheology build and foaming as current commercial formulations. Additionally, the conventional formulations require significantly larger number of components to achieve similar benefits than the compositions of the present disclosure. The compositions of the present disclosure significantly reduces the number of required components and utilizes only purely, sustainable components. Example D
[0051] A first composition was prepared with about 10 wt. % of an acidic sophorolipid, about 90 wt. % of water, and 0 wt. % of HA. A second composition was prepared with about 10 wt. % of
an acidic sophorolipid, about 89.5 wt. % of water, and about 0.5 wt. % of HA. A third composition was prepared with about 10 wt. % of an acidic sophorolipid, about 89 wt. % of water, and about 1.0 wt. % of HA. Citric acid was added to adjust the pH of each of the compositions to be about 6.5.
TABLE 4: Viscosity Profile/ Shear Thinning Characteristics
[0052] Table 4 exhibits the viscosity profile/ shear thinning characteristics of the biosurfactant system of Example D, varying the weight percent of HA present. The data illustrates that as the concentration of HA is increased, the viscosity is increased as well, with 1% HA having the overall largest viscosity. Higher viscosity is often desired to increase sensory performance of the products when used by consumers.
TABLE 5: Surface Tension
[0053] Surface tension correlates directly to cleansing efficacy and foaming abilities. Table 5 demonstrates the three compositions in this Example D provide comparable surface tension reduction. The typical surface tension of water is approximately 70 mN/m and the drop to roughly 32 still exhibits desired cleansing efficacy and foaming abilities. Furthermore, the addition of HA does not greatly change the surface tension reduction capability, as it only slightly increases the surface tension.
[0054] Table 6 exhibits the wet combing data results of the compositions prepared in Example D. The results illustrated the highly improved conditioning effects with the addition of HA with an acidic sophorolipid biosurfactant mixtures. As illustrated, the acidic sophorolipid solution with no HA had a reduction in wet combing forces of about 54.4%. When combined with 0.5% HA, the reduction increased to 66.7% culminating in a wet combing reduction of 71.9% for 1% HA. A commercially available sulfate-free shampoo, which does not contain HA, was then compared to the three compositions. The wet combing reduction of the compositions all have at least doubled that of the sulfate-free shampoo. The composition containing 1% HA had nearly tripled the wet combing reduction measured of the sulfate free shampoo. The large increase in reduction drastically improves the lubrication properties, reduces tangles found in the hair tresses and improves upon sensory performance properties.
Example E
[0055] A first composition was prepared with about 10 wt. % of an alkyl polyglucoside, about 90 wt. % of water, and about 0 wt. % of HA. A second composition was prepared with about 10 wt. % of an alkyl polyglucoside, about 89.5 wt. % of water, and about 0.5 wt. % of HA. A third composition was prepared with about 10 wt. % of an alkyl polyglucoside, about 89 wt. % of water, and about 1.0 wt. % of HA.
TABLE 7: Viscosity Profile/ Shear Thinning Characteristics
[0056] Table 7 exhibits the viscosity profile/ shear thinning characteristics of the biosurfactant system of Example E, varying the weight percent of HA present. The data illustrates that as the concentration of HA is increased, the viscosity is increased as well, with 1% HA having the overall largest viscosity. Higher viscosity is often desired to increase sensory performance of the products when used by consumers.
TABLE 8: Surface Tension
[0057] Surface tension correlates directly to cleansing efficacy and foaming abilities. Table 8 demonstrates the three compositions in this Example E provide comparable surface tension reduction. The typical surface tension of water is approximately 70 mN/m and the drop to roughly 29 still exhibits desired cleansing efficacy and foaming abilities. Furthermore, the addition of HA does not greatly change the surface tension reduction capability, as it only slightly increases the surface tension.
[0059] Table 9 exhibits the wet combing data results of the compositions prepared in Example E The results illustrated the highly improved conditioning effects with the addition of HA with an alkyl polyglucoside biosurfactant mixture. As illustrated, the alkyl polyglucoside solution with no HA had a reduction in wet combing forces of about 30.2%. When combined with 0.5% HA, the reduction increased to 42.4% culminating in a wet combing reduction of 48.7% for 1% HA, and compared with a commercially available product Sulfate Free Shampoo with a wet combing reduction of only 24.4%. The large increase in reduction drastically improves the lubrication
properties, reduces tangles found in the hair tresses and improves upon sensory performance properties.
[0060] While at least one exemplary embodiment has been presented in the foregoing detailed description, it should be appreciated that a vast number of variations exist. It should also be appreciated that the exemplary embodiment or exemplary embodiments are only examples, and are not intended to limit the scope, applicability, or configuration of the invention in any way. Rather, the foregoing detailed description will provide those skilled in the art with a convenient road map for implementing an exemplary embodiment of the invention, it being understood that various changes may be made in the function and arrangement of elements described in an exemplary embodiment without departing from the scope of the invention as set forth in the appended claims and their legal equivalents.
Claims
1. A cleansing composition comprising at least one of a rhamnolipid and a sophorolipid, and hyaluronic acid, wherein the composition achieves high conditioning and comprises a desired rheological profile and foaming ability.
2. The cleansing composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition comprises a mixture of at least one rhamnolipid and at least one sophorolipid and a total weight percent of the at least one rhamnolipid and the at least one sophorolipid is present in an amount from about 5% to about 20% by weight of the composition.
3. The cleansing composition according to claim 2, wherein a total weight percent of the at least one rhamnolipid and at least one sophorolipid is present in an amount from about 10% to about 16% by weight of the composition.
4. The cleansing composition according to claim 2, wherein the ratio of rhamnolipids to sophorolipids is at least one of 2:8, 3:7, 4:6, 5:5, 6:4, 7:3, and 8:2.
5. The cleansing composition according to claim 2, wherein the ratio of rhamnolipids to sophorolipids is at least one of 4:6, 4.5: 5.5, 5:5, and 5.5:4.5.
6. The cleansing composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one sophorolipid is at least one of a lactonic sophorolipid or acidic sophorolipid.
7. The cleansing composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one sophorolipid is produced by fermentation using yeasts selected from the group consisting of Candida bombicola , Yarrowia lipolytica, Candida apicola ( Torulopsis apicola ), and Candida bogoriensis by growing at least one selected yeast on at least one of sugars, hydrocarbons, vegetable oils, and/or mixtures thereof.
8. The cleansing composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one sophorolipid is present in an amount of from 1 wt. % to about 16 wt. % of the composition.
9. The cleansing composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one rhamnolipid is produced by fermentation using yeasts selected from Pseudomonas genus by growing the yeast on hydrophobic substrates.
10. The cleansing composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one rhamnolipid is present in an amount of from 1 wt. % to about 16 wt. % of the composition.
11. The cleansing composition according to claim 1, wherein the hyaluronic acid is present in an amount from about 0.1% to about 2% by weight of the composition.
12. The cleansing composition according to claim 1, wherein the hyaluronic acid is present in an amount from about 0.5% to about 1.5% by weight of the composition.
13. The cleansing composition according to claim 1, wherein the hyaluronic acid has an average molecular weight of from about 5 to about 1500 kDa.
14. The cleansing composition according to claim 1, wherein the hyaluronic acid has an average molecular weight of from about 100 to about 1000 kDa.
15. The cleansing composition according to claim 1, wherein the pH is from about 4 to about 7.5.
16. The cleansing composition according to claim 1, wherein the pH is from about 5.5 to about 6.5.
17. The cleansing composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition comprises shear thinning characteristic including a viscosity range of from about 1000 to about 20,000 cps at a lower shear rate (1 to 10 1/s) and from about 10 to about 100 cps at a higher shear rate (105-1041/s).
18. The cleansing composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition comprises a surface tension from about 10 to about 60 mN/m.
19. The cleansing composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition comprises a surface tension from about 20 to about 40 mN/m.
20. A cleansing composition comprising at least one biosurfactant and hyaluronic acid, wherein the composition achieves high conditioning and comprises a desired rheological profile and foaming ability.
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US20160249604A1 (en) * | 2009-09-29 | 2016-09-01 | Evonik Degussa Gmbh | Use of sophorolipids and derivatives thereof in combination with pesticides as adjuvant/additive for plant protection and the industrial non-crop field |
US20170071842A1 (en) * | 2015-09-14 | 2017-03-16 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | Cleansing agents containing biosurfactants and having prebiotic activity |
US20180326194A1 (en) * | 2010-09-29 | 2018-11-15 | Rodan & Fields, Llc | Methods and compositions for treating skin |
WO2019243151A1 (en) * | 2018-06-22 | 2019-12-26 | Beiersdorf Ag | Mild cosmetic cleansing preparation |
US20200069779A1 (en) * | 2017-05-07 | 2020-03-05 | Locus Ip Company, Llc | Cosmetic Compositions for Skin Health and Methods of Using Same |
WO2020173639A1 (en) * | 2019-02-28 | 2020-09-03 | Beiersdorf Ag | Cleansing wipes soaked with soaking agents that contain biosurfactants |
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US20160249604A1 (en) * | 2009-09-29 | 2016-09-01 | Evonik Degussa Gmbh | Use of sophorolipids and derivatives thereof in combination with pesticides as adjuvant/additive for plant protection and the industrial non-crop field |
US20180326194A1 (en) * | 2010-09-29 | 2018-11-15 | Rodan & Fields, Llc | Methods and compositions for treating skin |
US20140349902A1 (en) * | 2011-12-28 | 2014-11-27 | Evonik Industries Ag | Aqueous hair and skin cleaning compositions comprising biosurfactants |
US20170071842A1 (en) * | 2015-09-14 | 2017-03-16 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | Cleansing agents containing biosurfactants and having prebiotic activity |
US20200069779A1 (en) * | 2017-05-07 | 2020-03-05 | Locus Ip Company, Llc | Cosmetic Compositions for Skin Health and Methods of Using Same |
WO2019243151A1 (en) * | 2018-06-22 | 2019-12-26 | Beiersdorf Ag | Mild cosmetic cleansing preparation |
WO2020173639A1 (en) * | 2019-02-28 | 2020-09-03 | Beiersdorf Ag | Cleansing wipes soaked with soaking agents that contain biosurfactants |
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