WO2021228574A1

WO2021228574A1 - Sunscreen having low tackiness and high uv protection

Info

Publication number: WO2021228574A1
Application number: PCT/EP2021/061325
Authority: WO
Inventors: Jorina Kaack; Birgit Heitmann; Alexis Goulet-Hanssens; David SCHLENKER
Original assignee: Beiersdorf Ag
Priority date: 2020-05-13
Filing date: 2021-04-29
Publication date: 2021-11-18
Also published as: DE102020206056A1

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic sunscreen containing one or more particulate fillers having an average particle size distribution D₅₀ of 5 to 20 μm, measured by means of laser diffraction; to a method for reducing the tackiness of cosmetic sunscreens, wherein one or more particulate fillers having an average particle size distribution D₅₀ of 5 to 20 μm, measured by means of laser diffraction, are added to the preparation. The invention also relates to the use of particulate fillers having an average particle size distribution D₅₀ of 5 to 20 μm, measured by means of laser diffraction, to reduce the tackiness of cosmetic sunscreens.

Description

description

Sunscreen with low stickiness and high UV protection

The present invention relates to a cosmetic sunscreen comprising one or more particulate fillers having an average particle size distribution D ₅ o 5-20 miti, measured by laser diffraction, a method for reducing the stickiness of cosmetic sunscreens, wherein the preparation comprises one or more particulate fillers having an average particle size distribution D ₅ o added 5-20 miti, measured by laser diffraction, and the use of particulate fillers having an average particle size distribution D ₅ O 5-20 miti, measured by laser diffraction, cosmetic for reducing the stickiness sunscreen.

The trend away from the elegant paleness towards "healthy, sporty brown skin" has been unbroken for years. In order to achieve this, people expose their skin to solar radiation, as this causes pigment formation in the sense of melanin. However, the ultraviolet radiation of sunlight also has a damaging effect on the skin. In addition to the acute damage (sunburn), long-term damage such as an increased risk of developing skin cancer occurs when there is excessive exposure to light from the UVB range (wavelength: 280-320 nm). The excessive exposure to UVB and UVA radiation (wavelength: 320-400 nm) also leads to a weakening of the elastic and collagen fibers of the connective tissue. This leads to numerous phototoxic and photoallergic reactions and leads to premature aging of the skin.

To protect the skin, a number of light protection filter substances have therefore been developed that can be used in cosmetic preparations. These UVA and UVB filters are summarized in most industrialized countries in the form of positive lists such as Appendix 7 of the Cosmetics Ordinance. The large number of commercially available sunscreens should not, however, obscure the fact that these prior art preparations have a number of disadvantages.

Cosmetic sunscreens, due to their UV filter content, mostly have a certain stickiness, which, especially when used on the beach, leads to sand sticking to the areas of skin that have been creamed. The more UV filters a preparation contains, the greater the problem. Although there has been no lack of attempts in the past to develop sand-repellent sunscreens, this problem has not yet been finally and satisfactorily solved, particularly in the case of preparations with a high sun protection factor.

It was therefore the object of the present invention to develop a sunscreen with reduced sand adhesion (“sand-repellent”). In particular, a sunscreen with a high sun protection factor should be developed, which is particularly little sand-adhering.

In addition to stickiness / sand adhesion, cosmetic sunscreens also have the problem that a large number of UV filters are not particularly readily soluble in the preparations. The solubility of triazine derivatives poses a problem for developers, especially when formulations with a high sun protection factor and high UV filter content are developed. In the past, the liquid UV-B filter octocrylene was used as a UV filter and solvent to solve this problem .

The disadvantage of the state of the art lies in the fact that the use of octocrylene, despite the approval by the approval authorities, is not entirely undisputed and in reviews by some consumer magazines (e.g. Öko-Test) to "devaluations" in the rating of the product to lead. This negative evaluation is justified by the fact that some scientists suspect that this UV filter could possibly be hormonally effective. Even if, despite decades of worldwide use of this UV filter in sunscreens, no negative effects on humans have become known, there is a desire among consumers to avoid preparations with such ingredients.

It was therefore the object of the present invention to eliminate the disadvantages of the prior art and to develop a sand-repellent sunscreen with a high sun protection factor in which the UV filters are stably dissolved. Ideally, the task should be achieved without using octocrylene as a solvent and stabilizer. Last but not least, it was the object of the present invention to develop a sunscreen which, with as little use of UV filters as possible, offers high UV-A protection (in particular as measured by the Boots Star Rating) and high UV-B protection (as measured by the sun protection factor SPF, in particular in-vivo SPF).

Surprisingly, the objects are achieved by a cosmetic sunscreen comprising one or more particulate fillers having an average particle size distribution D ₅ o 5-20 miti, as measured by laser diffraction.

Surprisingly, the objects are achieved by a method for reducing the stickiness of cosmetic sunscreens, wherein the preparation comprises one or more particulate fillers having an average particle size distribution D are added ₅ o 5-20 miti, as measured by laser diffraction.

Are dissolved Surprisingly, the tasks cosmetic by a method for increasing the UV-A protection (in particular of the boat Star Ratings) and / or the sun protection factor SPF sunscreen, wherein the preparation comprises one or more particulate fillers having an average particle size distribution D ₅ o of 5 to 20 miti, measured by means of laser diffraction, can be added.

The objects are achieved, surprisingly, by the use of particulate fillers having an average particle size distribution D ₅ o 5-20 miti, measured by laser diffraction, for reducing the stickiness of cosmetic sunscreens.

The objects are achieved, surprisingly, by a use of particulate fillers having an average particle size distribution D ₅ o 5-20 miti, measured by laser diffraction, cosmetic for increasing the UV-A protection (in particular of the boat Star Ratinigs) and / or the sun protection factor SPF Sunscreen.

According to the invention, “stickiness” of the cosmetic sunscreen is understood to mean the adhesion of sand to the skin after the sunscreen has been applied.

The formulations “according to the invention”, “advantageous according to the invention” etc. always relate in the context of the present disclosure to the cosmetic preparation according to the invention (sunscreen agent), the uses according to the invention and that according to the invention Procedure, unless otherwise described in the individual case.

According to the invention, it is advantageous if the preparation is free from 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone (INCI: Oxybenzon), 4-methoxycinnamic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (INCI Octylmethoxycinnamate), ethylhexyl-2- cyano-3,3-diphenyl acrylate (INCI: Octocrylene), parabens, methyl isothiazolinone, chloromethyl isothiazolinone and DMDM hydantoin, polyethylene glycol ethers or polyethylene glycol esters.

It is also advantageous according to the invention if the preparation is free from 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl 2-hydroxybenzoate (INCI: Homosalate).

Advantageous embodiments according to the present invention are characterized, in that the formulation, the particulate filler having an average particle size distribution D ₅ o 5-20 miti, measured by laser diffraction, in a concentration of 0.5 to 6% by weight, based on the Contains the total weight of the preparation. A concentration of 3.0 to 5.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation, is preferred according to the invention.

It is according to the invention of advantage if the preparation as particulate fillers having an average particle size distribution D ₅ o 5-20 miti, measured by laser diffraction, one or more compounds selected from the group of Bismuthoxychloride and / or mica, which is coated with tin oxide and titanium dioxide is, contains

The compound with the color index number (CI) 77163 is used as the bismuth oxychloride preferred according to the invention. The bismuth oxychloride according to the invention has preferred according to the invention preferably have an average particle size distribution D ₅ o 11-17 miti, as measured by laser diffraction. According to the invention, 80% of the particles are preferably in a size range from 2 to 35 μm (measured by means of laser diffraction). The laser diffraction measurements on bismuth oxychloride were carried out using the Malvern 2000 device / method.

According to the invention embodiments, preferred of the present invention are further characterized in that the preparation as particulate fillers having an average particle size distribution D ₅ o 5-20 miti, measured by laser diffraction, a bismuth oxychloride having a bulk density of 89-109 g / 100 ml, as measured by DIN 53466 contains. According to the invention, it is particularly preferred if this bismuth oxychloride with a Bulk density of 89 to 109 g / 100 ml, measured according to DIN 53466, in a concentration of 0.5 to 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation it contains.

For example, “RonaFlair ™ ESQ” from Merck can be used as bismuth oxychloride according to the invention.

The compound with the color index number (CI) 77891 is used as the mica coated with titanium dioxide and tin oxide which is preferred according to the invention. The inventively preferred with titanium dioxide and tin oxide coated mica has according to the invention preferably have an average particle size distribution D o ₅ of 6 to 8.5 miti, as measured by laser diffraction. According to the invention, 80% of the particles are preferably in a size range of less than / equal to 15.0 miti (measured by means of laser diffraction). According to the invention, the particulate filler preferably contains 65 to 73% by weight of titanium dioxide, 23 to 34% by weight of mica and 1 to 4% by weight of tin oxide.

According to the invention embodiments, preferred of the present invention are further characterized in that the preparation as particulate fillers having an average particle size distribution D ₅ o 5-20 miti, measured by laser diffraction, a substrate coated with titanium dioxide and tin oxide Mica having a bulk density of 26 g to 26 / Contains 100 ml, measured according to ISO 3923-2. It is particularly preferred according to the invention if this mica coated with titanium dioxide and tin oxide with a bulk density of 26 to 26 g / 100 ml, measured according to ISO 3923-2, in a concentration of 0.5 of up to 6% by weight, based on the total weight the preparation contained in the preparation.

For example, “RonaFlair ™ Balance Blue” from Merck can be used as the mica coated with titanium dioxide and tin oxide according to the invention.

Embodiments of the present invention which are advantageous according to the invention are characterized in that the preparation has one or more UV filters selected from the group of compounds from hexyl 2- [4- (diethylamino) -2-hydroxybenzoyl] benzoate (INCI: Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate), 2,4,6-Tris- [anilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)] -1, 3,5-triazine (INCI: Ethylhexyl Triazone) and 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid salts .

The use concentration advantageous according to the invention for hexyl 2- [4- (diethylamino) -2-hydroxybenzoyl] benzoate (INCI: Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate) is from 0.5 to 9% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation. The use concentration advantageous according to the invention for 2,4,6-tris- [anilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)] -1, 3,5-triazine (INCI: ethylhexyl triazone) is 0 , 5 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

The use concentration advantageous according to the invention for 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid salts is from 0.5 to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

Embodiments of the present invention which are advantageous according to the invention are also characterized in that the preparation has one or more UV filters selected from the group of the compounds 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (INCI butyl methoxydibenzoyl-methane) and 2,4 -Bis - {[4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine (INCI Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine) contains.

If the preparation contains 4- (tert-butyl) -4’-methoxydibenzoylmethane (INCI Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane), the advantageous according to the invention is 1 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

If the preparation contains 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -

1 .3.5-triazine (INCI bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine), the use concentration advantageous according to the invention is from 0.5 to 4.5% by weight based on the total weight of the preparation.

Furthermore, embodiments advantageous according to the invention are characterized in that they contain one or more UV filters selected from the group of the compounds 2,4,6-T ribiphenyl-4-yl-

1 .3.5-triazine; Merocyanines; Piperazine derivatives; titanium dioxide; Contains zinc oxide, contains ethylhexyl salicylate, dioctylbutylamidotriazon (INCI: Diethylhexyl-Butamidotriazone).

It is advantageous for the purposes of the present invention if the preparation is free from polyacrylates, carbomers and polyvinylpyrrolidones.

According to the invention, it is advantageous if the preparation is in the form of an emulsion or an ethanolic solution. The type of emulsion which is advantageous according to the invention is the O / W emulsion.

If the preparation according to the invention is in the form of an O / W emulsion, it is advantageously characterized according to the invention in that the preparation has one or more O / W emulsifiers selected from the group of the compounds glyceryl stearate citrate, glyceryl stearate (self-emulsifying), stearic acid, stearate salts, Contains polyglyceryl 3-methylglycose distearate, sodium cetearyl sulfate, potassium cetyl phosphate, polyglyceryl 10 stearate, sodium stearyl glutamate.

If the preparation according to the invention is in the form of a W / O emulsion, it is advantageously characterized according to the invention in that the preparation has one or more W / O emulsifiers selected from the group of the compounds diisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 dimer dilinoleate, polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / Polyhydroxystearates / sebacates, polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleates and / or polyglyceryl-2 sesquioleates.

In the context of the present invention, “ethanolic solution” is understood to mean a sunscreen that contains at least 10% by weight of ethanol, based on the total weight of the preparation. According to the invention, such an ethanolic sunscreen agent preferably contains from 20 to 75% by weight of ethanol and particularly preferably from 25 to 70% by weight of ethanol, based in each case on the total weight of the preparation.

It is advantageous according to the invention if the preparation contains xanthan gum (INCI: Xanthan Gum).

In such a case, the embodiments preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the preparation contains xanthan gum (INCI: Xanthan Gum) in a concentration of 0.1 to 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

Advantageous embodiments within the meaning of the present invention are characterized in that the preparation contains phenoxyethanol, ethylhexylglycerol and / or 4-hydroxyacetophenone.

It is also advantageous according to the invention if the preparation contains one or more alkanediols from the group of compounds 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-octanediol, 1,2-decanediol, 2-methyl-1,3 -propanediol contains. According to the invention advantageous embodiments of the present invention are characterized in that the preparation is one or more compounds selected from the group of compounds alpha-lipoic acid, folic acid, phytoene, D-biotin, coenzyme Q10, alpha-glucosyl rutin, carnitine, carnosine, natural and / or synthetic isoflavonoids, flavonoids, creatine, creatinine, taurine, b-alanine, panthenol, magnolol, honokiol, tocopheryl acetate, dihydroxyacetone; Thiamidol; 8-hexadecene-1, 16-dicarboxylic acid, glycerylglycose, (2-hydroxyethyl) urea, vitamin E or its derivatives, hyaluronic acid and / or its salts and / or licochalcone A contains.

The preparation according to the invention can advantageously contain humectants. Moisturizers are substances or mixtures of substances that give cosmetic preparations the property of reducing the release of moisture from the horny layer (also called transepidermal water loss (TEWL)) and / or the hydration of the horny layer after application or distribution on the skin surface to influence positively.

Advantageous moisturizers for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, glycerol, lactic acid and / or lactates, in particular sodium lactate, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, Biosaccaride Gum-1, Glycine soy, ethylhexyloxyglycerol, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid and urea. Furthermore, it is particularly advantageous to use polymeric moisturizers from the group of water-soluble and / or water-swellable and / or water-gellable poly saccharides. For example, hyaluronic acid, chitosan and / or a fucose-rich polysaccharide, which is filed in the Chemical Abstracts under the registry number 178463-23-5 and z. B. under the name Fucogel®1000 from SOLABIA S.A. is available. Moisturizers can also be used advantageously as anti-wrinkle ingredients to protect against skin changes such as those caused by skin changes. B. occur with skin aging, can be used.

In addition, the preparations according to the invention can contain the ingredients customary for cosmetic sunscreens in the customary use concentrations.

The following formulations are not part of the invention (and are therefore excluded from the scope of protection):

Comparative tests:

The effect according to the invention could be demonstrated with the following comparative experiment. The following recipes were made. ü

In-vitro sand adhesion

50 mg of the test emulsion were applied to PMMA Schönberg plates (5.0 x 5.0 cm) and distributed evenly on the plate with a finger cot. The applied example formulation is then dried for 15 min at room temperature. The weight of the dried plates was then determined using an analytical balance. The panels were then poured over excess fine sea sand (1 .07711 .1000 pure sea sand, from Merck KGaA). By sliding the plates once on a slide device provided for this purpose (see below), loosely adhering sand was removed with reproducible, uniform force. The adhering sand then remaining on the plate was determined by weighing. The sand adhesion can be determined with the following equation:

D (adhesion) [mg] = m (plate with sand) [mg] - m (cream-coated plate) [mg] The slide device is a triangular construction with a width of the slide 5 cm. The slide is a construction built in the shape of a right triangle, in which the width of the slide is 5 cm. The adjacent side of the right-angled triangle (= standing surface of the slide) has a length of 13.5 cm, the opposite side (= height of fall) has a length of 49 cm. The hypotenuse on which the sliding process takes place and the standing surface enclose an angle of 275 °.

The tests were repeated 10 times for each recipe and the corresponding average was calculated.

Individual data on sand adhesion:

Measurement of UVA protection: The UVA protection is measured according to the method for determining the Boots Star Ratio (The Boots Company PLC).

Execution:

32 mg of test product are applied to a PMMA Schönberg plate (5.0 x 5.0 cm) and distributed evenly on the plate with a finger cot. The applied example formulation is then dried for 15 min at room temperature. Repeat this process with 2 more plates per test product. As a reference, a plate is prepared with glycerine analogous to the description.

Immediately after the drying time, the transmission of UV radiation through the product-treated panels and the panel used as a reference is measured. The measurement takes place in steps of 1 nm in the range from 290-400 nm. The panels treated with the product are then irradiated with a total dose of 17.5 J / cm ^{2 of} sun-equivalent UV radiation.

Immediately after the irradiation, the transmission of UV radiation of each plate treated with the product is measured again in steps of 1 nm in the range from 290-400 nm. With each plate 5 measurements are carried out before the irradiation and after the irradiation and the mean values are formed.

The UVA: UVB absorption ratio is calculated from the mean values of the transmission measurements “before” and “after” the irradiation.

Results:

SPF measurements

The SPF measurements were carried out in accordance with ISO 24444 (Cosmetics - Sun protection test methods - In vivo determination of the sun protection factor (SPF)). Results:

Examples

The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention without restricting it. Unless otherwise stated, all amounts, proportions and percentages are based on the weight and the total amount or on the total weight of the preparations.

Claims

1 . Cosmetic sunscreen comprising one or more particulate fillers having an average particle size distribution D ₅ o 5-20 miti, as measured by laser diffraction.

2. A method for reducing the stickiness of cosmetic sunscreens, wherein the preparation is added one or more particulate fillers having an average particle size distribution D ₅ O 5-20 miti, as measured by laser diffraction.

3. A method for increasing the UV-A protection (in particular of the boat Star Ratinigs) and / or the sun protection factor SPF of cosmetic sunscreens, wherein the preparation comprises one or more particulate fillers having an average particle size distribution D ₅ O 5-20 miti measured by Laser diffraction can be added.

4. The use of particulate fillers having an average particle size distribution D ₅ o 5-20 miti, measured by laser diffraction, for reducing the stickiness of cosmetic sunscreens.

5. The use of particulate fillers having an average particle size distribution D ₅ o of 5 cosmetic to 20 miti, measured by laser diffraction, for increasing the UV-A protection (in particular of the boat Star Ratinigs) and / or the sun protection factor SPF sunscreen.

6. Sunscreen, method or use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation is free from 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone (INCI: Oxybenzone), 4-methoxycinnamic acid-2 -ethylhexyl ester (INCI Octylmethoxycinnamate), ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenyl acrylate (INCI: Octocrylene), parabens, methylisothiazolinone, chloromethyl-isothiazolinone and DMDM-hydantoin, polyethylene glycol ethers or polyethylene glycol esters.

7. Sun protection agent, method or use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation is free from 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl 2-hydroxybenzoate (INCI: homosalate).

8. sunscreens, method or use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the formulation, the particulate filler having an average particle size distribution D ₅ o 5-20 miti, measured by laser diffraction, in a concentration of 0.5 to 6 weight %, based on the total weight of the preparation.

9. sunscreens, method or use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation as particulate fillers having an average particle size distribution D ₅ o 5-20 miti, measured by laser diffraction, one or more compounds selected from the group of bismuth oxychlorides and / or mica, which is coated with tin oxide and titanium dioxide.

10. Sunscreen agent, method or use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation has one or more UV filters selected from the group of compounds from hexyl 2- [4- (diethylamino) -2-hydroxybenzoyl] benzoate (INCI: Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate), 2,4,6-Tris- [anilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)] - 1, 3,5-triazine (INCI: Ethylhexyl Triazone) and 2- Contains phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid salts.

11th Sunscreen, method or use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation is free from polyacrylates, carbomers and polyvinylpyrrolidones.

12. Sunscreen agent, method or use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation is in the form of an emulsion or an alcoholic solution.

13. Sunscreen, method or use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation has one or more UV filters selected from the group of compounds 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (INCI butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane), 2-Ethylhexyl 2-hydroxybenzoate (INCI: Ethylhexyl Salicylate) and 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3 , 5-triazine (INCI Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine) contains.

14. sunscreens, method or use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation as particulate fillers having an average particle size distribution D ₅ o 5-20 miti, measured by laser diffraction, a bismuth oxychloride having a bulk density of 89-109 g / 100 ml, measured according to DIN 53466.

15. sunscreens, method or use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation as particulate fillers having an average particle size distribution D ₅ o 5-20 miti, measured by laser diffraction, a bismuth oxychloride having a bulk density of 89-109 g / 100 ml, measured according to DIN 53466, in a concentration of 0.5 to 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

16. sunscreens, method or use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation as particulate fillers having an average particle size distribution D ₅ o 5-20 miti, measured by laser diffraction, contains a titanium dioxide coated with mica and tin oxide with a bulk density of 26 to 26 g / 100 ml, measured according to ISO 3923-2.

17. sunscreens, method or use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation as particulate fillers having an average particle size distribution D ₅ o 5-20 miti, measured by laser diffraction, a coated mica and tin oxide, titanium dioxide having a bulk density of 26 to 26 g / 100 ml, measured according to ISO 3923-2, in a concentration of 0.5 to 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.