WO2021123600A1

WO2021123600A1 - Perfume remover composition

Info

Publication number: WO2021123600A1
Application number: PCT/FR2020/052442
Authority: WO
Inventors: Sarah PIERRARD
Original assignee: L V M H Recherche
Priority date: 2019-12-16
Filing date: 2020-12-15
Publication date: 2021-06-24
Also published as: FR3104427A1; FR3104427B1

Abstract

The present invention concerns a cosmetic method for attenuating and/or removing the smell of a perfume comprising applying, on a previously perfumed support, in particular on a perfumed skin, a composition capable of attenuating and/or removing the smell of a perfume, comprising: a) at least one cyclodextrin, b) water, and c) an olfactively neutral oil, characterised in that the total content of compounds a), b) and c) represents at least 80% by weight of the total weight of the composition, preferably at least 90% by weight, or even 100% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

Description

l

Fragrance erasing composition

FIELD OF THE INVENTION

The present invention relates to the cosmetics field and in particular to a composition comprising mainly water, at least one cyclodextrin and an odor-neutral oil, capable of reducing and / or erasing the olfactory note of a perfume.

STATE OF THE ART

The use of perfumes by humans is very old, going back to the earliest times.

The concept of perfume today generally designates a highly concentrated olfactory composition, offered in packaging suitable for their use by consumers. The perfume industry is an important part of the fashion and luxury economic sector, often associated with France's image in the world for luxury perfumes.

A perfume generally contains a perfume concentrate, ethanol, optionally water, and additives such as solubilizers, colorants, anti-oxidants and surfactants. The perfume concentrate is an essential constituent of perfume. It essentially contains odorous volatile substances which are associated, to give the perfume its original olfactory note, identifiable by the consumer.

The smell of a perfume, also called “olfactory note” in the present application, is the result perceived by the smell of the emanation of the volatile substances which it contains. By playing on the degrees of volatility of odorous substances, and the thresholds of perceptions by smell, we compose a perfume whose olfactory note evolves over the hours following application to clothing, skin, or hair or all. other medium.

Thus, each perfume presents what is called i) a top note which is the odor diffusing first during the application of the perfume or when opening the container containing it, ii) a middle note or body which corresponds to the complete perfume (emission for a few hours after gradual extinction of the top note) and iii) a base note which is the most persistent odor (emission for several hours after the heart note). The persistence of the base note corresponds to what perfumers call the persistence of the perfume.

Consumers may see their perfume as an olfactory signature of their personality and want a very present and persistent base note throughout the day. But depending on his activities during the same day, he may wish, on the contrary, to reduce the olfactory note of the perfume, or even erase it to have the possibility of changing perfume during the same day. In addition, in Asia, we notice that the consumer does not wish to disturb those around him and prefers to remain discreet olfactory.

Using a concentrated perfume with a more or less pronounced olfactory note and being able to attenuate its intensity, or mask it with a gesture to apply another, such is the problem addressed by the present invention.

The use of cottons soaked in water, alcohol and / or a cleaning agent is known from the prior art, but there remains the need to have available to the consumer a composition capable of reducing and / or to erase in a gesture the olfactory note of said perfume, and which is cosmetically acceptable, in particular leaving the skin virgin of perfuming components and ready for the application of another perfume distinct from the first. The olfactory identity of the perfumes reapplied to the skin would therefore be completely preserved.

The Applicant has precisely developed a 'scent eraser' composition capable of attenuating and / or erasing the odor (the olfactory note) of a perfume mainly comprising water, at least one cyclodextrin and an olfactory neutral oil. .

Patents US Pat. No. 5,882,638 and US Pat. No. 5,871,718 describe deodorant compositions intended to trap bad body odor and comprising a cyclodextrin. But these documents do not suggest the application of a composition comprising a cyclodextrin, on a previously perfumed skin, to attenuate and / or erase the olfactory notes of a perfume concentrate, distinct from the body odors of the aforementioned documents, nor do they suggest a composition comprising a mixture of three cyclodextrins according to the invention.

Thanks to the present invention, it is thus possible to change perfume during the day, to modulate its olfactory trail but also to test different perfumes at the point of sale, without any 'olfactory imprint' or residual odor likely to impact the perfume. odor of another perfume applied subsequently to the skin or any other support (eg clothing, hair, etc.).

DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION An aim of the invention is to attenuate and / or erase the odor of a perfume on the skin in order to be able in particular either to modulate the intensity of the perfume worn or to completely erase its odor (its olfactory note ) in order to be able to change them during the day. To this end, there is proposed, according to a first aspect of the invention, a cosmetic process intended to attenuate and / or erase the odor of a perfume comprising the application, on a previously perfumed support, in particular on a perfumed skin, of a composition capable of attenuating and / or erasing the odor of a perfume, comprising: a) at least one cyclodextrin, b) water, and c) an odor-neutral oil, characterized in that the total content of compounds a), b) and c) represents at least 80% by weight of the total weight of said composition, preferably at least 90% by weight, or even 100% by weight of the total weight of said composition

In the present application, we will speak indifferently of a cosmetic composition or of a “fragrance erasing composition” or of a composition capable of attenuating and / or erasing the odor of a perfume or composition capable of attenuating and / or erasing the olfactory note. 'a perfume. A 'perfume' according to the invention generally contains a perfume concentrate which essentially contains odorous volatile substances which are associated, to give the perfume its original olfactory note, ethanol, optionally water, and additives such as solubilizing agents, colorants, antioxidants and surfactants. The term “fragrance eraser” composition or composition capable of attenuating and / or erasing the odor of a perfume is understood to mean according to the invention a cosmetic composition mainly comprising 3 families of compounds, namely cyclodextrins, water. and olfactory neutral oils, said composition being capable of trapping the volatile odorous substances of the perfume concentrate which give it its original olfactory note. By "predominantly" is meant that the composition of the invention comprises less than 20% by weight of additional ingredients, in particular less than 10% and preferably less than 1% of additional ingredients.

In addition, the "perfume eraser" composition according to the invention does not itself contain perfume. The cosmetic composition of the invention or the "perfume eraser" composition of the invention will be said to be unscented.

The previously perfumed support can be an item of clothing, the skin, the hair, preferably the skin.

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic composition capable of attenuating and / or erasing the odor of a perfume comprising: a) a mixture of hydroxypropyl alpha-cyclodextrin, hydroxypropyl beta-cyclodextrin and hy d roxy p ro py l ga mma - cyc lod ext ri ne, b) water, and c) an odor-neutral oil selected from the group consisting of sunflower oil, macadamia oil, apricot kernel oil, meadowfoam oil, and mixtures thereof, more preferably sunflower oil.

Another object of the invention is a cosmetic set comprising one or more perfumes and a "perfume eraser" composition as defined according to the invention.

The present invention also relates to the cosmetic use of the combination of one or more cyclodextrins, water and an odor-neutral oil, preferably a sunflower oil, preferably representing at least 80% by weight of a composition. cosmetic, preferably at least 90% by weight, or even 100% by weight of the total weight of said composition, as a combination for attenuating and / or erasing the odor of a perfume. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

Thus, the application relates to a composition capable of attenuating and / or erasing the odor of a perfume comprising: a) at least one cyclodextrin, b) water, and c) an olfactory neutral oil, characterized in that the total content of compounds a), b) and c) represents at least 80% by weight of the total weight of said composition, preferably at least 90% by weight, or even 100% by weight of the total weight of said composition.

According to a first aspect, the invention relates to a cosmetic process intended to attenuate and / or erase the odor of a perfume comprising the application, on a previously perfumed support, in particular on a previously perfumed skin, of a composition. capable of attenuating and / or erasing the odor of a perfume, otherwise called a 'perfume eraser', comprising: a) at least one cyclodextrin, b) water, and c) an odor-neutral oil, characterized in that the total content of compounds a), b) and c) represents at least 80% by weight of the total weight of said composition, preferably at least 90% by weight, or even 100% by weight of the total weight of said composition composition.

The composition according to the invention is described in more detail below.

Cyclodextrins

Cyclodextrins are cyclic oligosaccharides consisting of 6 (for alpha-cyclodextrins), 7 (for beta-cyclodextrins) or 8 (for gamma-cyclodextrins) units of glucopyranose, respectively. Since the solubility of natural cyclodextrins is very low, it has been found that chemical substitutions at the 2-, 3- and 6-hydroxyl sites greatly increase their solubility. The degree of chemical substitution and the nature of the groups used for the substitution determine the final maximum concentration of cyclodextrin in aqueous medium. Most chemically modified cyclodextrins can reach a concentration of 50% by weight in water. The size of the cavity is the main determinant of the cyclodextrin used in complexation. Alpha-cyclodextrins have a small cavity, with an average diameter generally ranging from 0.45 to 0.55 nanometers, which cannot accept many molecules. Beta-cyclodextrins, whose cavity has an average diameter generally ranging from 0.60 to 0.65 nanometers, are most commonly used as a complexing agent. Gamma-cyclodextrins have a much larger cavity, with an average diameter ranging from 0.75 to 0.85 nanometers. The hydrophobic molecules are incorporated into the cavity of the cyclodextrins by displacing the water. This reaction is favored by the repulsion of the molecule by water. The molecule of interest is thus encapsulated in the cyclodextrin, making it soluble in water. Thanks to the size of their respective cavities, each type of cyclodextrin can advantageously encapsulate and therefore trap olfactory molecules of different size and hydrophobicity.

For example: alpha-cyclodextrins can encapsulate small olfactory molecules such as aldehydes, ethers, short-chain alcohols, and terpenes; beta-cyclodextrins will be able to encapsulate medium-sized olfactory molecules such as acetates, salicylates, and benzoates; gamma-cyclodextrins will be able to encapsulate large olfactory molecules such as musks, perfume molecules with aromatic rings, and lactones.

Mention may in particular be made of the following cyclodextrins: [Table 1]

The cyclodextrins used according to the invention will be chosen from alpha-cyclodextrin, beta-cyclodextrin, gamma-cyclodextrin, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, at least beta-cyclodextrin will be used, advantageously with at least one of alpha-cyclodextrins and gamma-cyclodextrins. According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the "perfume eraser" composition will comprise the 3 types of cyclodextrins, namely alpha-cyclodextrin, beta-cyclodextrin and gamma-cyclodextrin.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, one or more cyclodextrins will be used chosen from the group consisting of (2-Hydroxypropyl) - alpha-cyclodextrin, (2- Hydroxypropyl) -beta-cyclodextrin, (2-Hydroxypropyl) -gamma-cyclodextrin and their mixtures.

According to a preferred embodiment, the “perfume eraser” composition according to the invention will comprise at least one hydroxypropyl beta-cyclodextrin, in particular at least (2-Hydroxypropyl) -beta-cyclodextrin. Advantageously, the 'perfume eraser' composition according to the invention will also comprise at least one additional hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin chosen from hydroxypropyl alpha-cyclodextrin, hydroxypropyl gamma-cyclodextrin and their mixture, preferably a mixture of the three cyclodextrins hydroxypropyl alpha-cyclodextrin , hydroxypropyl beta-cyclodextrin and hydroxypropyl gamma-cyclodextrin. According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the 'fragrance erasing' composition will comprise at least (2-Hydroxypropyl) -beta cyclodextrin, advantageously with at least one of (2-Hydroxypropyl) alpha-cyclodextrin and (2-Hydroxypropyl) gamma -cyclodextrin. According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the “fragrance erasing” composition will comprise the three cyclodextrins, namely (2-Hydroxypropyl) - alpha-cyclodextrin, (2-Hydroxypropyl) beta-cyclodextrin and (2-Hydroxypropyl) -gamma-cyclodextrin.

Mention may in particular be made of (2-Hydroxypropyl) alpha-cyclodextrin and (2-Hydroxypropyl) gamma-cyclodextrin marketed by the company SIGMA-ALDRICH and (2-Hydroxypropyl) beta-cyclodextrin marketed under the name KLEPTOSE® HP ORAL GRADE EP- USP by the company ROQUETTE.

The cyclodextrins are introduced into the 'fragrance erasing' composition of the invention which comprises water, in order to dissolve the cyclodextrins used and a fatty or oily phase which solubilizes the olfactory molecules of the perfume concentrate to be attenuated and / or erased. .

The total content of cyclodextrin (s) will represent in particular from 2% to 30%, preferably from 3% to 20%, and more preferably from 4% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of said 'eraser' composition. perfume, preferably in a 1: 1: 1 (alpha: beta: gamma) weight ratio.

According to a particular embodiment, the "perfume eraser" composition will comprise from 3 to 8% by weight of each of the three cyclodextrins and preferably:

5% by weight of alpha-cyclodextrin, preferably (2-Hydroxypropyl) alpha-cyclodextrin,

5% by weight of beta-cyclodextrin, preferably (2-Hydroxypropyl) - beta-cyclodextrin, and

5% by weight of gamma-cyclodextrin, preferably (2-Hydroxypropyl) gamma-cyclodextrin.

Olfactory neutral oils

The fatty or oily phase of said "fragrance erasing" composition will comprise one or more olfactory neutral oils.

The term “odor-neutral oil” according to the invention is understood to mean an oil which has little or no detectable odor, that is to say which has no olfactory identity or characteristic olfactory note. This allows the 'perfume eraser' composition according to the invention to do not leave an olfactory imprint or residual odor on the skin after application of said “fragrance erasing” composition.

This also allows, when you simply want to reduce the intensity of a perfume on the skin, not to alter the olfactory identity that the consumer seeks to maintain.

According to a first mode of the invention, the olfactory neutral oils which may be suitable for use according to the invention can be defined according to the olfactory evaluation of their odor, in particular of their rancid odor. The rancid odor is characteristic of fatty substances, which on contact with air, release a strong odor or a pungent odor of oxidized compounds. This evaluation, based on the olfactory detection of characteristic olfactory notes of an oil, is carried out by a panel of experts trained in olfactory evaluation, according to the following method:

Each oil is evaluated, in its container (glass bottle), for its odor (note linked to its olfactory note and the rancid odor that it is likely to release on contact with air) in two stages: to TO and 4 ° C, a first olfactory evaluation of the oil is carried out, at 7 days (60 ° C), a second olfactory evaluation of the oil is carried out.

Each panelist follows the same evaluation protocol. Ratings are assigned on a scale of 0 to 4, in which:

0 or 1 represents a neutral (0) or quasi-neutral (1) oil;

2 represents a low odor oil;

3 represents a fragrant oil;

4 represents a very fragrant oil.

Oils with scores of 3 and 4 at T0 or T 7 days are not suitable for the invention. According to the invention, a weakly odorous oil with an olfactory note 2 can be used, but advantageously, preference is given to so-called “neutral” oils having an olfactory note of 0 or 1, more preferably of 0. These so-called “neutral” oils are not used. odorous and do not release a rancid odor.

According to a particular embodiment, the olfactory neutral oil is chosen from the group consisting of sunflower oil, macadamia oil, apricot kernel oil, meadowfoam oil, and mixtures thereof, of preferably sunflower oil. According to another mode of the invention, the olfactory neutral oils capable of being suitable for the use according to the invention can also be defined by their degree of oxidation. The degree of oxidation of a compound, in particular of a lipophilic compound or an oil, can be measured with Rancimat. The Rancimat method is carried out using a current of air at temperatures between 50 and 220 ° C. For oils, temperatures ranging from 80 to 120 ° C and 3 to 5 g of product will generally be used. Volatile oxidation products (such as formic acid) are carried by the air stream into the measuring vessel, where they are absorbed (dissolved) in the measuring liquid (distilled water). The conductivity of this water is continuously measured and an increase is recorded when volatile acids appear in it. Oxidation curves can be generated. The time that elapses until these volatile acids are detected is called the induction time or stability index. The longer the induction time, the more stable the sample. The analysis is coupled with StabNet software. The odorless oil according to the invention has an induction time at 100 ° C greater than 20 hours, preferably greater than 30 hours and even more advantageously greater than 45 hours, and / or an induction time at 120 ° C. greater than 10 hours, preferably greater than 15 hours and even more advantageously greater than 20 hours, according to the Rancimat protocol. According to a preferred embodiment, sunflower oil will be used, which has an induction time at 100 ° C. greater than 45 hours and an induction time at 120 ° C. greater than 20 hours.

The olfactory neutral oil (s) will generally represent between 80 and 100% of the fatty or oily phase of the “fragrance erasing” composition according to the invention.

The aqueous phase (eg water) and the oily phase (olfactory neutral oils) will generally be present in a water / olfactory neutral oil (s) weight ratio ranging from 80 (water) / 20 (oil) to 60/40, in particular a ratio of 70/30. Cosmetic composition (otherwise known as a "perfume eraser" composition)

The 'perfume eraser' composition according to the invention will mainly comprise the 3 ingredients: Cyclodextrin (s)

Water

Odor-neutral oil (s) and in a total content of at least 80% by weight of the total weight of said 'fragrance erasing' composition, preferably at least 90% by weight, or even 100% by weight of weight total of said 'scent eraser' composition.

According to a particular embodiment, said 'fragrance erasing' composition according to the invention comprises: a) a mixture of hydroxypropyl alpha-cyclodextrin, hydroxypropyl beta-cyclodextrin and hy d roxy p ro py l ga mma - cyc lod ext ri ne, b) water, c) one or more odor-neutral oil (s), preferably sunflower oil. According to a particular and preferred embodiment, said 'perfume erasing' composition according to the invention comprises: a) from 3% to 15%, by weight of cyclodextrin (s), preferably a mixture of hydroxypropyl alpha-cyclodextrin, hydroxypropyl beta. cyclodextrin and hydroxypropyl gamma-cyclodextrin, more preferably 15% by weight of a mixture of hydroxypropyl alpha-cyclodextrin, hydroxypropyl beta-cyclodextrin and hydroxypropyl gamma-cyclodextrin in a 1: 1: 1 weight ratio, b) of 50% to 70% by weight of water, c) from 15% to 35% by weight of olfactory neutral oil (s), preferably sunflower oil, relative to the total weight of said composition.

According to a preferred embodiment, said 'fragrance erasing' composition comprises a mixture of alpha-cyclodextrin, beta-cyclodextrin, and gamma-cyclodextrin, preferably a mixture (2-Hydroxypropyl) alpha-cyclodextrin, (2-Hydroxypropyl) beta-cyclodextrin , and (2-Hydroxypropyl) gamma-cyclodextrin, in a total content preferably ranging from 5 to 15% by weight, in an olfactory neutral water / oil (s) base with a weight ratio of 80/20 (80 water / 20 oil ( s)) at 60/40, preferably 70/30. he

Preferably, said 'perfume erasing' composition comprises 5% by weight of (2-Hydroxypropyl) alpha-cyclodextrin, 5% by weight of (2-Hydroxypropyl) beta-cyclodextrin, and 5% by weight of (2-Hydroxypropyl) gamma-cyclodextrin, in a 70/30 water / sunflower oil base. According to a particular embodiment, said "perfume eraser" composition does not contain any ingredient other than these three ingredients.

According to one embodiment, said 'fragrance erasing' composition may also contain at least one additional cosmetic adjuvant chosen from the group consisting of alcohols, glycols, polyols, and gelling agents, in a total content ranging from 0.001 to 20. % by weight relative to the total weight of said "perfume eraser" composition.

According to one particular mode, said "perfume eraser" composition is in the form of a two-phase composition, comprising two immiscible phases, to be stirred before use. According to another embodiment, the "perfume eraser" composition is a composition to be sprayed in the form of a spray, or a composition soaked on a woven or non-woven support. According to this particular embodiment, the support capable of imbibing a liquid is chosen in particular from a wipe, a foam, a sponge, a support based on natural fibers (eg cotton, etc.). According to a particular embodiment, the composition is in the form of a support pre-soaked with said 'perfume erasing' composition according to the invention, in particular of a wipe pre-soaked with said 'perfume erasing' composition according to 'invention.

Cosmetic process The present invention therefore relates to a cosmetic process intended to attenuate and / or erase the odor of a perfume comprising the application, on a previously perfumed support, in particular on a previously perfumed skin, of a composition 'eraser of perfume. perfume 'as defined above.

The support can be clothing, the skin, the hair, preferably the skin. According to a first aspect, the cosmetic process according to the invention is intended to partially attenuate the perfume or to modulate the olfactory note of the perfume, in order to attenuate its odor. According to a second aspect, the cosmetic process according to the invention is intended to completely erase the perfume, in order to mask the odor.

The consumer can thus, during the same day, apply a first perfume, attenuate and / or erase the odor of this first perfume by using the 'perfume eraser' composition of the invention and then apply a second perfume distinct from the fragrance. first. He can repeat this operation several times during the day, according to his desires. Preferably, he will remove from its support (eg clothing, hair, skin) the "perfume eraser" composition before applying a new perfume. The composition of the invention can be removed from the support by conventional means, a wipe or cotton, which has sufficient affinity for the composition, so that the latter migrates from the support to which it has been applied, for example. the skin, towards the material used to remove it.

Thus, according to a particular and preferred mode, the cosmetic process of the invention can also comprise a step during which the consumer removes the 'fragrance erasing' composition from the support, for example the skin, using any means allowing it. The removal of the 'fragrance erasing' composition after its application to the skin allows the consumer to apply a new fragrance to the same area of skin without its application being altered in any way by the 'fragrance erasing composition. 'previously used to erase the previous scent.

Cosmetic set

Another object of the invention is a cosmetic set comprising one or more perfumes and a "perfume eraser" composition as defined above. The "perfume eraser" composition can be in a different container from the perfume container, or in a container with several compartments, said "perfume eraser" composition then being in a separate compartment from the other perfume compartments. use

The invention also relates to the cosmetic use of the combination of one or more cyclodextrins, water and an odor-neutral oil, preferably a sunflower oil, preferably representing at least 80% by weight of a composition cosmetic, preferably at least 90% by weight, or even 100% by weight of the total weight of said composition, as a combination for attenuating and / or erasing the odor of a perfume.

The cyclodextrins which can be used and which are preferred according to the invention are described above. The present invention will now be illustrated in the following non-limiting examples. Unless otherwise indicated, the% are expressed in% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

EXAMPLES

The evaluation was carried out by a panel of experts to judge the olfactory neutrality after application of the "fragrance eraser" composition to previously scented skin. The experts were chosen for their experience of objective and descriptive characterizations of sensory qualities, and their ease in disregarding hedonic components.

Example 1: Selection of molecules with pouvoir perfume erasing ’power

Several lines of study have been carried out in order to find the molecule that would have the best "odor erasing" power on odorous molecules. The avenues studied as well as the corresponding raw materials used are summarized in Table 2 below:

[Table 2]

The tests were all carried out in a base containing water and alcohol at a 50/50 ratio. All raw materials have already been tested at a rate of 1% to begin with. The results were analyzed by the expert panel and are presented in Table 3 below:

[Table 3]

These results show that only Kleptose® HP (cyclodextrin) makes it possible to reduce olfactory intensity and therefore to have the desired de perfume odor erasing ’power.

Example 2: Preparation of the "odor eraser" composition

2-1 Base of formula solubilizing cyclodextrins

Studies were then carried out to develop the formula in which the cyclodextrins can be introduced. Indeed, it is important for cyclodextrins to be dissolved in water in order to retain the properties resulting from their structure.

Different concentrations of Kleptose® HP were tested in the water / alcohol base at 50/50 (v / v): the best results in terms of “fragrance erasing” efficiency are obtained with 5% of Kleptose® HP.

Different water / alcohol ratios (v / v) were tested, in particular 50/50 (v / v) water / alcohol and 70/30 (v / v) water / alcohol, with better results in terms of efficiency ' perfume eraser 'with the 70/30 (v / v) water / alcohol ratio. Finally, on the basis of the preferred embodiment comprising 5% by weight of Kleptose® HP and 70% by weight of water, oils, used to facilitate the trapping of the perfume concentrate (lipophilic character) and olfactory substances, have been tested.

A first study consisted of the olfactory evaluation of the odor of these oils, in particular their rancid odor, released by fatty substances on contact with air. This olfactory assessment of the characteristic olfactory notes of an oil is carried out by a panel of experts trained in olfactory assessment, according to the following method:

Each oil is evaluated for its odor, resulting from its characteristic olfactory note and the detection of a rancid odor that it is likely to release on contact with air. The oils are evaluated in their container (glass bottle) and in two stages: at T0 and 4 ° C, a first olfactory evaluation of the oil is carried out, at T 7 days (60 ° C, in accelerated aging), a second olfactory evaluation of the oil is carried out.

0 or 1 respectively represents a neutral (0) or quasi-neutral (1) oil;

2 represents a low odor oil;

3 represents a fragrant or rancid oil;

4 represents a very fragrant or rancid oil. Corn oil under the name EPALINE DM has a score of 3 and camelina oil (CAMELINA SAUVA SEED OIL) a score of 4, with a rancid odor from the evaluation at T0 which is maintained or even amplified at T 1 week. These oils are not suitable for the invention.

In contrast, sunflower oil, macadamia oil, apricot kernel oil, and meadowfoam oil (meadowfoam), have ratings of 0 to 2, acceptable for use according to the invention. Preferably, sunflower oil is used.

According to another study, these oils were evaluated according to the Rancimat protocol, as described above. The induction times at 100 ° C and 120 ° C are given in Table 4 below for the three oils tested.

[Table 4]

The results of the Rancimat tests confirm the olfactory evaluation carried out by the panel of experts on the different oils.

Sunflower oil, in particular that marketed under the name Florasun 90 (INCI: Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil) gives particularly surprising results using both methods and is the best choice for a so-called "olfactory neutral" oil.

According to a particular embodiment, the solubilizing formula for cyclodextrins comprises:

70% by weight of water

30% by weight of sunflower oil, in particular that marketed under the name Florasun 90 from the company LASERSON SA and SAFIC ALCAN SAS (INCI: Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil).

- and advantageously phenoxyethanol (preservative), also olfactory neutral, in order to avoid microbiological risks that could arise over time.

This formula solubilizing cyclodextrins or "base" therefore constitutes a two-phase composition which must be stirred before its use, in order to homogenize it.

The ability of the 'eraser' composition of the invention, in the form of a water / sunflower oil base (70/30) solubilizing 5% by weight of cyclodextrin (s), to attenuate and / or erase the The smell of a perfume on the skin was evaluated by the panel of experts. This concluded that the composition of the invention had better efficacy compared to a water / alcohol base.

In particular, the 'scent eraser' composition is capable of attenuating the olfactory notes of the most persistent olfactory families (eg: floral, oriental fragrances) and completely erasing the olfactory family of hesperids, which are more volatile. 2-2 Optimization of the 'fragrance eraser' composition

Studies were then carried out using different types of cyclodextrins (alpha, beta and gamma), each having a different cavity size, the smallest being that of the so-called "alpha" cyclodextrins and the largest for the so-called "gamma" cyclodextrins. . Depending on their size, they have different affinities towards the many odorous molecules contained in a perfume.

The use of three types of cyclodextrins in the same 'perfume eraser' composition advantageously makes it possible to capture the greatest number of scent molecules and thus constitute a 'universal' perfume eraser 'composition, suitable for trapping any type of perfume, whatever its composition in olfactory molecules.

The fragrance erasing composition therefore advantageously has the following composition:

[Table 5]

The results of the panel of experts showed a very significant attenuation of the smell of perfume on the skin, and effectiveness on all types of olfactory families of perfumes; with more or less high remanence and / or intensity.

This "perfume eraser" composition can therefore be used on a previously perfumed skin whose perfume is to be erased or masked.

The consumer can thus, according to his desires during the day, put a first perfume on his clothes, his skin or his hair, preferably his skin, then erase it with the 'scent eraser' composition of the invention, removing said “fragrance erasing” composition from its support (eg clothing, skin, hair) and then applying a second fragrance distinct from the first.

Claims

1. Cosmetic process intended to attenuate and / or erase the odor of a perfume comprising the application, on a previously perfumed support, in particular on a perfumed skin, of a composition comprising: a) at least one cyclodextrin, b ) water, and c) an odor-neutral oil, characterized in that the total content of compounds a), b) and c) represents at least 80% by weight of the total weight of said composition, preferably at least 90 % by weight, or even 100% by weight, of the total weight of said composition.

2. Cosmetic process according to claim 1, characterized in that the composition further comprises an additional cosmetic adjuvant chosen from the group consisting of alcohols, glycols, polyols and gelling agents, in a total content ranging from 0.001 to 20 % by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

3. Cosmetic process according to claim 1 or claim 2, characterized in that the composition comprises at least one hydroxypropyl-beta cyclodextrin.

4. Cosmetic process according to claim 3, characterized in that the composition further comprises at least one additional hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin chosen from hydroxypropyl-alpha-cyclodextrin, hydroxypropyl-gamma cyclodextrin and their mixture, preferably a mixture of the three hydroxypropyl cyclodextrins. alpha-cyclodextrin, hydroxypropyl beta-cyclodextrin and hydroxypropyl gamma-cyclodextrin.

5. Cosmetic process according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the total content of cyclodextrin (s) in the composition represents from 2% to 30%, preferably from 3% to 20%, and preferably further from 4% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition, advantageously in a 1: 1: 1 weight ratio.

6. Cosmetic process according to claim 1, characterized in that the olfactory neutral oil is chosen from the group consisting of oil of sunflower, macadamia oil, apricot kernel oil, meadowfoam oil, and mixtures thereof, more preferably sunflower oil.

7. Cosmetic process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises: a) from 3% to 15% by weight of cyclodextrin (s), preferably a mixture of hydroxypropyl alpha-cyclodextrin, hydroxypropyl beta- cyclodextrin and hydroxypropyl gamma-cyclodextrin, more preferably 15% by weight of a mixture of hydroxypropyl alpha-cyclodextrin, hydroxypropyl beta-cyclodextrin and hydroxypropyl gamma-cyclodextrin in a weight ratio

1: 1: 1, b) from 50% to 70% water, c) from 15% to 35% odor-neutral oil (s), preferably sunflower oil, relative to the total weight of said composition.

8. Cosmetic process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition is in the form of a two-phase composition to be stirred before use, of a composition to be sprayed in the form of a spray, of a composition. impregnated on a woven or non-woven support, in particular a wipe, a foam, a sponge, a support based on natural fibers, preferably a wipe pre-impregnated with said composition.

9. Cosmetic composition capable of attenuating and / or erasing the odor of a perfume comprising: a) a mixture of hydroxypropyl alpha-cyclodextrin, hydroxypropyl beta-cyclodextrin and hydroxypropyl gamma-cyclodextrin, b) water , and c) an odor-neutral oil selected from the group consisting of sunflower oil, macadamia oil, apricot kernel oil, meadowfoam oil, and mixtures thereof, more preferably. sunflower oil.

10. Cosmetic set comprising one or more perfumes and a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 9.

11. Cosmetic use of the combination of one or more cyclodextrins, water and an odor-neutral oil, preferably a sunflower oil, preferably representing at least 80% by weight of a cosmetic composition, preferably at least 90% by weight, or even 100% by weight of the total weight of said composition, as a combination for attenuating and / or erasing the odor of a perfume.