WO2021102897A1 - Two-phase composition for topical application - Google Patents
Two-phase composition for topical application Download PDFInfo
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- WO2021102897A1 WO2021102897A1 PCT/CN2019/121929 CN2019121929W WO2021102897A1 WO 2021102897 A1 WO2021102897 A1 WO 2021102897A1 CN 2019121929 W CN2019121929 W CN 2019121929W WO 2021102897 A1 WO2021102897 A1 WO 2021102897A1
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
- A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/03—Liquid compositions with two or more distinct layers
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/39—Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/46—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
- A61K8/466—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur containing sulfonic acid derivatives; Salts
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
- A61K8/8158—Homopolymers or copolymers of amides or imides, e.g. (meth) acrylamide; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
Definitions
- the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials.
- the present invention relates to a two-phase composition for topical application.
- the present invention also relates to a process for caring for and/or making up keratin materials.
- compositions consisting of two separate phases, especially an aqueous phase and a fatty phase, which are separate, are generally referred to as "two-phase compositions" .
- Two-phase compositions appeal to consumers on account of their pearly appearance. The two phases are separate at rest by a single interface.
- Document EP 0 603 080 describes the use of alkyldimethylbenzylammonium and especially of benzalkonium chloride as a phase-separation agent, for obtaining rapid phase separation.
- Document EP 1 514 534 also describes a two-phase composition containing sodium bicarbonate as phase-separation agent.
- WO 2014/207259A2 discloses a two-phase composition for topical application comprising magnesium acetate.
- two-phase compositions necessitates prior shaking in order to form an emulsion.
- All of the two-phase composition mentioned above are characterized by rapid phase separation (or demixing) of the two phases after their use. That is to say, the two-phase composition mentioned above emulsifies readily by shaking and undergo rapid phase separation after the shaking is stop.
- obtaining rapid phase separation is desirable for the two-phase compositions mentioned above, especially since poor separation of the two phases is perceived by users as being unaesthetic.
- the emulsion obtained by shaking must be of sufficient stability to enable homogeneous application of the two phases.
- One object of the present is thus to provide a two-phase composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials such as the skin, in particular the face, the lips and/or the eyes, which will form a stable and uniform pearly emulsion after shaking.
- Another object of the present invention is to provide a process for caring for and/or making up keratin materials such as the skin, in particular the face, the lips and/or the eyes.
- the present invention provides a two-phase composition for topical application comprising:
- the present invention provides a process for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, such as the skin, in particular the face, the lips and/or the eyes, comprising shaking the two-phase composition as described above to form an oil-in-water emulsion and applying the emulsion to the keratin materials.
- the inventors have found that with the two phase composition according to the present invention comprising at least one taurate surfactant and at least one hydrophilic thickener in the aqueous phase and at least one hydrocarbon oil and at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters of glycerol in the fatty phase, one could obtain a two-phase composition having the desired qualities, i.e. which will form a stable and uniform twinkling pearly emulsion after shaking.
- taurate surfactant selected from oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters of glycerol and hydrophilic thickener will stabilize the oil droplets formed after shaking in the aqueous phase.
- the two-phase composition according to the present invention enables the consumers experience a transformation process by themselves.
- the two-phase composition for topical application comprises:
- the aqueous phase and the fatty phase are separate, it means that the aqueous phase and the fatty phase are visible one on top of the other before shaking.
- the two-phase composition can be used to care for and/or make up keratin materials such as the skin, in particular the face, the lips and/or the eyes after being shaken to form a stable and uniform oil-in-water emulsion.
- skin means all the body skin, including the face, the lips and the eyes.
- stable means that a composition does not undergo any significant change in its structure or properties for at least one month after its manufacture and especially for at least two months after its manufacture.
- the two-phase composition comprises an aqueous phase.
- the aqueous phase comprises water.
- the water used may be sterile demineralized water and/or a floral water such as rose water, cornflower water, camomile water or lime blossom water, and/or a natural spring water or mineral water, for instance: Vittel water, Vichy basin water, Uriage water, Roche Posay water, Bourboule water, Enghien-les-Bains water, Saint Gervais-les-Bains water, Náris-les-Bains water, Allevar-les-Bains water, Digne water, Maizines water, Neyrac-les-Bains water, Lons-le-Saunier water, Eaux Bonnes water, Rochefort water, Saint Christau water, Fumades water, Tercis-les-bains water and Avene water.
- the aqueous phase may also comprise reconstituted spring water, i.e. a water containing trace elements such as zinc, copper, magnesium, etc., reconstituting the characteristics of a spring water.
- the aqueous phase may also comprise water-miscible organic solvents (at room temperature: 25°C) , for instance monoalcohols containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol or isopropanol; polyols comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups, especially containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably containing from 2 to 10 carbon atoms and preferentially containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol or diethylene glycol; glycol ethers (especially containing from 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as mono-,di-or tripropylene glycol (C 1 -C 4 ) alkyl ethers, mono-, di-or triethylene glycol (C 1 -C 4 ) alkyl ethers, and mixtures thereof.
- monoalcohols containing from 2 to 6 carbon
- the aqueous phase of the composition of the present invention preferably comprises water and an alcohol chosen monoalcohols, for example ethanol or isopropanol, and polyols, for example, preferably butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerin, or propylene glycol, PEG-8.
- an alcohol chosen monoalcohols for example ethanol or isopropanol
- polyols for example, preferably butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerin, or propylene glycol, PEG-8.
- an aqueous phase is present in an amount ranging from 50%to 99%by weight, preferably from 55%to 98%by weight, even more preferably from 60%to 97%by weight, relative to the total weight of the two-phase composition.
- the amount of the aqueous phase includes the amount of all ingredients dissolved or dispersed in the aqueous phase.
- the aqueous phase of the two-phase composition contains at least one taurate surfactant.
- taurate surfactants can be used in the present invention include those of Formula (I) :
- R 1 is (C 8 -C 22 ) alkyl
- R 2 is H or (C 1 -C 4 ) alkyl
- R 3 and R 4 are each independently H or (C 1 -C 4 ) alkyl
- M + is a sodium, potassium, or ammonium cation.
- the taurate surfactant may be selected from sodium methyl lauroyl taurate, sodium methyl myristoyl taurate, sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, sodium methyl oleoyl taurate, potassium methyl lauroyl taurate, potassium methyl myristoyl taurate, potassium methyl cocoyl taurate, potassium methyl oleoyl taurate, ammonium methyl lauroyl taurate, ammonium methyl myristoyl taurate, ammonium methyl cocoyl taurate, and ammonium methyl oleoyl taurate.
- the taurate surfactant is sodium methyl cocoyl taurate.
- the taurate surfactant is present in an amount of from 0.1%to 1%by weight, preferably from 0.2%to 1%by weight, more preferably from 0.3%to 1%by weight, relative to the total weight of the two-phase composition.
- the aqueous phase of the two-phase composition contains at least one hydrophilic thickener.
- hydrophilic thickener is intended to mean a compound capable of increasing the viscosity of the aqueous phase of the composition.
- hydrophilic thickeners may be used alone or in combination.
- hydrophilic thickeners mention may in particular be made of water-soluble or water-dispersible thickening polymers. They may in particular be chosen from:
- - crosslinked anionic acrylamide/AMPS copolymers in the form of a W/O emulsion, such as those sold under the name Sepigel 305 (CTFA name: Polyacrylamide/C13-14 Isoparaffin/Laureth-7) and under the name Simulgel 600 (CTFA name: Acrylamide/Sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer/Isohexadecane/Polysorbate 80) by the company SEPPIC;
- xanthan gum for instance xanthan gum, guar gum, gum Arabic, locus bean gum, acacia gum, scleroglucans, chitin derivatives and chitosan derivatives, carrageenans, gellans, alginates, or celluloses such as microcrystalline cellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose and hydroxypropylcellulose.
- Mentions maybe made of, for example, xanthan gum sold under the trade name CG-T by the company CP Kelco;
- hydrophilic fumed silicas obtained by high-temperature hydrolysis of a volatile silicon compound in an oxyhydrogen flame, producing a finely divided silica.
- the hydrophilic silicas have a large number of silanol groups at their surface.
- Such hydrophilic silicas are, for example, sold under the names Aerosil Aerosil Aerosil and Aerosil by the company Degussa, or Cab-O-Sil Cab-O-Sil Cab-O-Sil LM- Cab-O-Sil and Cab-O-Sil by the company Cabot. They preferably have a particle size that can be nanometric to micrometric, for example ranging from about 5 to 200 nm;
- the lipophilic thickener is selected from homopolymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, and polysaccharide biopolymers.
- the lipophilic thickener is selected from ammonium polyacryldimethyltauramide, xanthan gum, guar gum, gum Arabic, locus bean gum, acacia gum.
- the lipophilic thickener is present in an amount of from 0.1%to 2%by weight, preferably from 0.2%to 1.5%by weight, more preferably from 0.3%to 1%by weight, relative to the total weight of the two-phase composition.
- the two-phase composition comprises a fatty phase.
- the fatty phase is present in an amount ranging from 1%to 50%by weight, preferably from 2%to 45%by weight, even more preferably from 3%to 40%by weight, relative to the total weight of the two-phase composition.
- the fatty phase of the two-phase composition contains at least one hydrocarbon oil.
- oil means a water-immiscible non-aqueous compound that is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) .
- hydrocarbon-based oil means an oil formed essentially from, or even consisting of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not containing any silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.
- the hydrocarbon-based oil may be chosen from:
- C 8 -C 16 alkanes for instance C 8 -C 16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffins) , for instance isododecane (also known as 2, 2, 4, 4, 6-pentamethylheptane) , isodecane, isohexadecane and, for example, the oils sold under the trade name Isopar or Permethyl,
- esters containing from 3 to 8 carbon atoms in total
- esters such as ethyl acetate, methyl acetate, propyl acetate or n-butyl acetate
- oils of plant origin such as triglycerides consisting of fatty acid esters of glycerin, the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths varying from C 4 to C 24 , these chains possibly being linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated; these oils are especially heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively wheatgerm oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, marrow oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passion-flower oil and musk rose oil; shea butter
- R 1 COOR 2 oils of formula R 1 COOR 2 in which R 1 represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms or aromatic acid residue containing 6 to 40 carbon atoms, and R 2 represents a branched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, on the condition that R 1 + R 2 >10, for instance purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate) , isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C 12 -C 15 alkyl benzoates, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, alkyl or polyalkyl heptano
- octyldodecanol isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol and 2-undecylpentadecanol,
- hydroxylated diesters of a C 2 -C 8 dicarboxylic acid and of a C 2 -C 8 alcohol such as diisopropyl adipate, 2-diethylhexyl adipate, dibutyl adipate, diisostearyl adipate or 2-diethylhexyl succinate,
- hydroxylated triesters of a C 2 -C 8 tricarboxylic acid and of a C 2 -C 8 alcohol such as citric acid esters, such as trioctyl citrate, triethyl citrate, acetyl tributyl citrate, tributyl citrate or acetyl tributyl citrate;
- the hydrocarbon-based oil is chosen from optionally hydroxylated monoesters, diesters or triesters of a C 2 -C 8 monocarboxylic or polycarboxylic acid and of a C 2 -C 8 alcohol.
- the oily phase contains isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate and acetyl tributyl citrate as oils.
- the hydrocarbon-based oil represents all oil (s) in the fatty phase, or are present in a predominant weight content relative to the additional oil (s) that may be present in the fatty phase.
- the hydrocarbon-based oil is present in amount ranging from 0.5 %to 10%by weight, preferably from 0.8%to 8%by weight, more preferably from 1%to 5%by weight, relative to the total weight of the two-phase composition.
- the fatty phase of the two-phase composition contains at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters of glycerol.
- Surfactants are usually organic compounds that are amphiphilic, meaning that they contain both hydrophobic groups (their tails) and hydrophilic groups (their heads) .
- non-ionic surfactant is meant a surfactant which has no charged groups in its head (i.e. the charge of the hydrophilic group is neutral) .
- the oxyalkylene chain of the oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters of glycerol is preferably an oxyethylene chain.
- it may contain, for example, from 1 to 150 oxyalkylene and especially oxyethylene groups, and preferably from 2 to 100 oxyalkylene and especially oxyethylene groups.
- Examples of oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters of glycerol that may be mentioned more particularly include (INCI name) PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, and mixtures thereof.
- PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate such as those sold by the company Nihon Emulsion under the tradename Emalex Gwis-320EX.
- composition may also contain one or more other nonionic surfactants.
- nonionic surfactants examples include oxyalkylenated fatty acid ester of sorbitan, esters of fatty acids and of polyols; oxyalkylenated or non-oxyalkylenated ethers of fatty alcohols and of polyols, and mixtures thereof.
- Surfactants of this type that may be mentioned more particularly include:
- sorbitan such as (INCI name) Polysorbate 20, Polysorbate 65, Polysorbate 85, PEG-5 sorbitan isostearate, PEG-20 sorbitan triisostearate, PEG-20 sorbitan isostearate, PEG-40 sorbitan septaoleate, PEG-20 sorbitan tetraoleate and PEG-20 sorbitan trioleate;
- polyglycerol such as (INCI name) Polyglyceryl-3 Triisostearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-6 Isostearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Trioleate or Polyglyceryl-10 Trilaurate;
- - fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol such as (INCI name) PEG-8 Stearate, PEG-6Oleate, PEG-6 Isostearate, PEG-12 Isostearate, PEG-12 Diisostearate, PEG-8 Isostearate, PEG-8 Diisostearate or PEG-10 Isostearate;
- oxyalkylenated especially oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated, more particularly oxyethylenated, fatty alkyl ethers, for instance ceteareth-12 and ceteareth-20 (INCI name) , and also mixtures containing them, for instance the mixture sold under the name Emulgade CM by the company Cognis (mixture of cetearyl isononanoate, ceteareth-20, cetearyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate, glycerol, ceteareth-12 and cetyl palmitate) ;
- Mentions may be made of polysorbate 20, such as those sold by the company Croda under the tradename Tween TM 20-LQ- (AP) .
- the non-ionic surfactant is present in amount ranging from 0.1%to 1%by weight, preferably from 0.1%to 0.8%by weight, preferably from 0.15%to 0.5%by weight, relative to the total weight of the two-phase composition.
- the two-phase composition can comprises a cosmetic active agent (s) in one or other phase depending on their hydrophilic or lipophilic nature.
- cosmetic active agents that may be used in the two-phase composition of the present invention, especially when it is a skincare composition
- examples that may be mentioned include enzymes; flavonoids; moisturizers anti-inflammatory agents; vitamins; moisturing agents, brightening or whitening agents, peeling agents, antiaging agents, antioxidants, depigmenting agents; ⁇ -hydroxy acids; retinoids; antibacterial active agents; tensioning agents; ceramides; essential oils; UV-screening agents (or sunscreens) , and mixtures thereof.
- composition according to the present invention may also contain conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, which will be in one or other phase depending on their hydrophilic or lipophilic nature, for instance chelating agent (e.g. trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate) , fragrances, preserving agents (e.g. phenoxyethanol) and bactericides, opacifiers, dyes, hydrotrope, solubilizers (e.g. PPG-6-DECYLTETRADECETH-30, METHYL GLUCETH-20) , softeners, buffers, electrolytes such as sodium chloride, or a pH regulator (for example citric acid or sodium hydroxide) , and mixtures thereof.
- chelating agent e.g. trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate
- fragrances e.g. trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate
- preserving agents e.g. phenoxyethanol
- bactericides e.g. phenoxyethanol
- the two-phase composition contains phenoxyethanol as preserving agent in the aqueous phase.
- the preserving agent when presents in the two-phase composition, generally represent from 0.1%to 1%by weight, preferably from 0.2%to 0.8%by weight and better still from 0.3%to 0.6%by weight relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase.
- the two-phase composition for topical application comprises, relative to the total weight of the two-phase composition:
- taurate surfactant chosen form sodium methyl lauroyl taurate, sodium methyl myristoyl taurate, sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, sodium methyl oleoyl taurate, potassium methyl lauroyl taurate, potassium methyl myristoyl taurate, potassium methyl cocoyl taurate, potassium methyl oleoyl taurate, ammonium methyl lauroyl taurate, ammonium methyl myristoyl taurate, ammonium methyl cocoyl taurate, and ammonium methyl oleoyl taurate; and
- aqueous phase and/or the fatty phase comprises a cosmetic active agent chosen from enzymes; flavonoids; moisturizers anti-inflammatory agents; vitamins; moisturing agents, brightening or whitening agents, peeling agents, antiaging agents, antioxidants, depigmenting agents; ⁇ -hydroxy acids; retinoids; antibacterial active agents; tensioning agents; ceramides; essential oils; UV-screening agents (or sunscreens) , and mixtures thereof;
- a cosmetic active agent chosen from enzymes; flavonoids; moisturizers anti-inflammatory agents; vitamins; moisturing agents, brightening or whitening agents, peeling agents, antiaging agents, antioxidants, depigmenting agents; ⁇ -hydroxy acids; retinoids; antibacterial active agents; tensioning agents; ceramides; essential oils; UV-screening agents (or sunscreens) , and mixtures thereof;
- the two-phase compositions described above may be conditioned, in a known manner, in a bottle with a single compartment. The user may then shake the bottle before pouring its contents onto a pad of cotton.
- the two-phase composition is contained a package device comprising a container and a pipette, wherein the aqueous phase is contained in the container and the fatty phase is contained in the pipette.
- Another object of the present invention is to provide a process for caring for and/or making up keratin materials such as the skin, in particular the face, the lips and/or the eyes.
- the two-phase composition according to the present invention may be used for any topical application.
- the two-phase composition can be used for a non-therapeutic process, such as a cosmetic process, for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, such as the skin, in particular the face, the lips and/or the eyes.
- a non-therapeutic process such as a cosmetic process
- keratin materials such as the skin, in particular the face, the lips and/or the eyes.
- the present invention provides a process for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, such as the skin, in particular the face, the lips and/or the eyes, comprising shaking the two-phase composition as described above to form an oil-in-water emulsion and applying the emulsion to the keratin materials.
- Citric acid was used to adjust pH to 4.5.
- fatty phases of two-phase compositions of above invention and comparative formulas were prepared according to the following formulas (the contents are expressed as weight percentages of active material, unless otherwise indicated) :
- Aqueous phases of two-phase compositions of above invention and comparative formulas were prepared according to the following formulas (the contents are expressed as weight percentages of active material, unless otherwise indicated) :
- Procedure cold mixing of the ingredients of the aqueous phase.
- the two-phase composition according to invention formula 1 showed a good stability, pearly appearance with a stable and uniform distribution of the visible oil droplets, and no phase separation even after 2 months′ standing at room temperature.
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Abstract
A two-phase composition for topical application comprising: a) an aqueous phase containing at least one taurate surfactant and at least one hydrophilic thickener; and b) a fatty phase containing at least one hydrocarbon oil and at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from oxyalkylenated fatty acid ester of glycerol, wherein the aqueous phase and the fatty phase are separate. It also relates to a process for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, such as the skin, in particular the face, the lips and/or the eyes, comprising shaking the two-phase composition as described above to form an oil-in-water emulsion and applying the emulsion to the keratin materials.
Description
The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials. In particular, the present invention relates to a two-phase composition for topical application. The present invention also relates to a process for caring for and/or making up keratin materials.
Compositions consisting of two separate phases, especially an aqueous phase and a fatty phase, which are separate, are generally referred to as "two-phase compositions" . Two-phase compositions appeal to consumers on account of their pearly appearance. The two phases are separate at rest by a single interface.
Two-phase compositions have already been described, for example in documents EP 0 370 856 and EP 0 603 080, especially for removing eye makeup.
Document EP 0 603 080 describes the use of alkyldimethylbenzylammonium and especially of benzalkonium chloride as a phase-separation agent, for obtaining rapid phase separation.
Document EP 1 514 534 also describes a two-phase composition containing sodium bicarbonate as phase-separation agent.
WO 2014/207259A2 discloses a two-phase composition for topical application comprising magnesium acetate.
The use of two-phase compositions necessitates prior shaking in order to form an emulsion. All of the two-phase composition mentioned above are characterized by rapid phase separation (or demixing) of the two phases after their use. That is to say, the two-phase composition mentioned above emulsifies readily by shaking and undergo rapid phase separation after the shaking is stop.
Specifically, obtaining rapid phase separation is desirable for the two-phase compositions mentioned above, especially since poor separation of the two phases is perceived by users as being unaesthetic.
However, the emulsion obtained by shaking must be of sufficient stability to enable homogeneous application of the two phases.
There is thus still a need for a two-phase composition consisting of two separate phases, which will form a stable and uniform emulsion after shaking.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
One object of the present is thus to provide a two-phase composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials such as the skin, in particular the face, the lips and/or the eyes, which will form a stable and uniform pearly emulsion after shaking.
Another object of the present invention is to provide a process for caring for and/or making up keratin materials such as the skin, in particular the face, the lips and/or the eyes.
Thus, according to a first aspect, the present invention provides a two-phase composition for topical application comprising:
a) an aqueous phase containing at least one taurate surfactant and at least one hydrophilic thickener; and
b) a fatty phase containing at least one hydrocarbon oil and at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from oxyalkylenated fatty acid ester of glycerol,
wherein the aqueous phase and the fatty phase are separate.
According to a second aspect, the present invention provides a process for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, such as the skin, in particular the face, the lips and/or the eyes, comprising shaking the two-phase composition as described above to form an oil-in-water emulsion and applying the emulsion to the keratin materials.
Surprisedly, the inventors have found that with the two phase composition according to the present invention comprising at least one taurate surfactant and at least one hydrophilic thickener in the aqueous phase and at least one hydrocarbon oil and at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters of glycerol in the fatty phase, one could obtain a two-phase composition having the desired qualities, i.e. which will form a stable and uniform twinkling pearly emulsion after shaking.
Not intended to be limited by any theory, it is believed that the combination of taurate surfactant, non-ionic surfactant selected from oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters of glycerol and hydrophilic thickener will stabilize the oil droplets formed after shaking in the aqueous phase.
In addition, the two-phase composition according to the present invention enables the consumers experience a transformation process by themselves.
Other advantages of the present invention will emerge more clearly on reading the description and the examples that follow.
According to the first aspect of the present invention, the two-phase composition for topical application comprises:
a) an aqueous phase containing at least one taurate surfactant and at least onehydrophilic thickener; and
b) a fatty phase containing at least one hydrocarbon oil and at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters of glycerol,
wherein the aqueous phase and the fatty phase are separate.
By "the aqueous phase and the fatty phase are separate" , it means that the aqueous phase and the fatty phase are visible one on top of the other before shaking.
The two-phase composition can be used to care for and/or make up keratin materials such as the skin, in particular the face, the lips and/or the eyes after being shaken to form a stable and uniform oil-in-water emulsion.
By “skin” , it means all the body skin, including the face, the lips and the eyes.
The term “stable” means that a composition does not undergo any significant change in its structure or properties for at least one month after its manufacture and especially for at least two months after its manufacture.
As used herein, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included within this range, in particular in the expressions "between... and... " and "from... to ... ” .
As used herein, the term “comprising” is to be interpreted as encompassing all specifically mentioned features as well optional, additional, unspecified ones.
As used herein, the use of the term “comprising” also discloses the embodiment wherein no features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (i.e. “consisting of” ) .
Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the field the present invention belongs to. When the definition of a term in the present description conflicts with the meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the field the present invention belongs to, the definition described herein shall apply.
Unless otherwise specified, all numerical values expressing amount of ingredients and the like used in the description and claims are to be understood as being modified by the term “about” . Accordingly, unless indicated to the contrary, the numerical values and parameters described herein are approximate values which are capable of being changed according to the desired performance obtained as required.
As used herein, the expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more" .
The term “and/or” used herein refers to one or all of the elements mentioned.
Aqueous phase
According to the first aspect of the present invention, the two-phase composition comprises an aqueous phase.
The aqueous phase comprises water.
The water used may be sterile demineralized water and/or a floral water such as rose water, cornflower water, camomile water or lime blossom water, and/or a natural spring water or mineral water, for instance: Vittel water, Vichy basin water, Uriage water, Roche Posay water, Bourboule water, Enghien-les-Bains water, Saint Gervais-les-Bains water, Náris-les-Bains water, Allevar-les-Bains water, Digne water, Maizières water, Neyrac-les-Bains water, Lons-le-Saunier water, Eaux Bonnes water, Rochefort water, Saint Christau water, Fumades water, Tercis-les-bains water and Avene water. The aqueous phase may also comprise reconstituted spring water, i.e. a water containing trace elements such as zinc, copper, magnesium, etc., reconstituting the characteristics of a spring water.
The aqueous phase may also comprise water-miscible organic solvents (at room temperature: 25℃) , for instance monoalcohols containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol or isopropanol; polyols comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups, especially containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably containing from 2 to 10 carbon atoms and preferentially containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol or diethylene glycol; glycol ethers (especially containing from 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as mono-,di-or tripropylene glycol (C
1-C
4) alkyl ethers, mono-, di-or triethylene glycol (C
1-C
4) alkyl ethers, and mixtures thereof.
The aqueous phase of the composition of the present invention preferably comprises water and an alcohol chosen monoalcohols, for example ethanol or isopropanol, and polyols, for example, preferably butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerin, or propylene glycol, PEG-8.
Advantageously, an aqueous phase is present in an amount ranging from 50%to 99%by weight, preferably from 55%to 98%by weight, even more preferably from 60%to 97%by weight, relative to the total weight of the two-phase composition.
As used herein, the amount of the aqueous phase includes the amount of all ingredients dissolved or dispersed in the aqueous phase.
Taurate surfactant
According to the first aspect of the present invention, the aqueous phase of the two-phase composition contains at least one taurate surfactant.
For example, the taurate surfactants can be used in the present invention include those of Formula (I) :
wherein,
R
1 is (C
8-C
22) alkyl;
R
2 is H or (C
1-C
4) alkyl;
R
3 and R
4 are each independently H or (C
1-C
4) alkyl; and
M
+ is a sodium, potassium, or ammonium cation.
For example, the taurate surfactant may be selected from sodium methyl lauroyl taurate, sodium methyl myristoyl taurate, sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, sodium methyl oleoyl taurate, potassium methyl lauroyl taurate, potassium methyl myristoyl taurate, potassium methyl cocoyl taurate, potassium methyl oleoyl taurate, ammonium methyl lauroyl taurate, ammonium methyl myristoyl taurate, ammonium methyl cocoyl taurate, and ammonium methyl oleoyl taurate.
In a preferred embodiment, the taurate surfactant is sodium methyl cocoyl taurate.
Advantageously, the taurate surfactant is present in an amount of from 0.1%to 1%by weight, preferably from 0.2%to 1%by weight, more preferably from 0.3%to 1%by weight, relative to the total weight of the two-phase composition.
Hydrophilic thickener
According to the first aspect of the present invention, the aqueous phase of the two-phase composition contains at least one hydrophilic thickener.
The term “hydrophilic thickener” is intended to mean a compound capable of increasing the viscosity of the aqueous phase of the composition.
The hydrophilic thickeners may be used alone or in combination.
As hydrophilic thickeners, mention may in particular be made of water-soluble or water-dispersible thickening polymers. They may in particular be chosen from:
- polyvinylpyrrolidone,
- polyvinyl alcohol,
- modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, such as the products sold under the name
(CTFA name: carbomer) by the company Goodrich;
- homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid or salts thereof and esters thereof, and in particular the products sold under the names Versicol
or Versicol
or Salcare SC95 by the company Allied Colloid, Ultrahold
by the company Ciba-Geigy, polyacrylates and polymethacrylates, such as the products sold under the names Lubrajel and Norgel by the company Guardian or under the name Hispagel by the company Hispano Chimica, polyacrylic acids of Synthalen K type;
- polyacrylamides;
- copolymers of acrylic acid and of acrylamide sold in the form of their sodium salt under the names
by the company Hercules, poly (sodium methacrylate) sold under the name Darvan
by the company Vanderbilt, the sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids sold under the name Hydagen
by the company Henkel;
- homopolymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, which are optionally crosslinked and/or neutralized, for instance the poly (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid) sold by the company Clariant under the name Hostacerin
(CTFA name: ammonium polyacryldimethyltauramide) ;
- crosslinked anionic acrylamide/AMPS copolymers, in the form of a W/O emulsion, such as those sold under the name Sepigel 305 (CTFA name: Polyacrylamide/C13-14 Isoparaffin/Laureth-7) and under the name Simulgel 600 (CTFA name: Acrylamide/Sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer/Isohexadecane/Polysorbate 80) by the company SEPPIC;
- polyacrylic acid/alkyl acrylate copolymers of Pemulen type;
- polysaccharide biopolymers, for instance xanthan gum, guar gum, gum Arabic, locus bean gum, acacia gum, scleroglucans, chitin derivatives and chitosan derivatives, carrageenans, gellans, alginates, or celluloses such as microcrystalline cellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose and hydroxypropylcellulose. Mentions maybe made of, for example, xanthan gum sold under the trade name
CG-T by the company CP Kelco;
- hydrophilic fumed silicas obtained by high-temperature hydrolysis of a volatile silicon compound in an oxyhydrogen flame, producing a finely divided silica. The hydrophilic silicas have a large number of silanol groups at their surface. Such hydrophilic silicas are, for example, sold under the names Aerosil
Aerosil
Aerosil
Aerosil
and Aerosil
by the company Degussa, or Cab-O-Sil
Cab-O-Sil
Cab-O-Sil LM-
Cab-O-Sil
and Cab-O-Sil
by the company Cabot. They preferably have a particle size that can be nanometric to micrometric, for example ranging from about 5 to 200 nm;
- hydrophilic clays;
- associative polymers, for instance the PEG-150/stearyl alcohol/SMDI copolymer sold under the name Aculyn 46 by Rohm & Haas, or the steareth-100/PEG-136/HDI copolymer sold under the name Rheolate FX 1100 by Elementis;
- and mixtures thereof.
According to a preferred embodiment, the lipophilic thickener is selected from homopolymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, and polysaccharide biopolymers.
According to a more preferred embodiment, the lipophilic thickener is selected from ammonium polyacryldimethyltauramide, xanthan gum, guar gum, gum Arabic, locus bean gum, acacia gum.
Preferably, the lipophilic thickener is present in an amount of from 0.1%to 2%by weight, preferably from 0.2%to 1.5%by weight, more preferably from 0.3%to 1%by weight, relative to the total weight of the two-phase composition.
Fatty phase
According to the first aspect of the present invention, the two-phase composition comprises a fatty phase.
Advantageously, the fatty phase is present in an amount ranging from 1%to 50%by weight, preferably from 2%to 45%by weight, even more preferably from 3%to 40%by weight, relative to the total weight of the two-phase composition.
Hydrocarbon-based oil
According to the first aspect of the present invention, the fatty phase of the two-phase composition contains at least one hydrocarbon oil.
The term "oil" means a water-immiscible non-aqueous compound that is liquid at room temperature (25℃) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) .
The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil formed essentially from, or even consisting of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not containing any silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.
The hydrocarbon-based oil may be chosen from:
- hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially:
-- branched C
8-C
16 alkanes, for instance C
8-C
16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffins) , for instance isododecane (also known as 2, 2, 4, 4, 6-pentamethylheptane) , isodecane, isohexadecane and, for example, the oils sold under the trade name Isopar or Permethyl,
-- linear alkanes, for instance n-dodecane (C
12) and n-tetradecane (C
14) sold by Sasol under the respective references Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97, and also mixtures thereof, the undecane-tridecane mixture, the mixtures of n-undecane (C
11) and of n-tridecane (C
13) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of patent application WO 2008/155 059 from the company Cognis, and mixtures thereof,
-- short-chain esters (containing from 3 to 8 carbon atoms in total) such as ethyl acetate, methyl acetate, propyl acetate or n-butyl acetate,
- hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin such as triglycerides consisting of fatty acid esters of glycerin, the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths varying from C
4 to C
24, these chains possibly being linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated; these oils are especially heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively wheatgerm oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, marrow oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passion-flower oil and musk rose oil; shea butter; or else caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company Stáarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol
and
by the company Dynamit Nobel,
- synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms;
- linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as
squalane and liquid paraffins, and mixtures thereof,
- synthetic esters such as oils of formula R
1COOR
2 in which R
1 represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms or aromatic acid residue containing 6 to 40 carbon atoms, and R
2 represents a branched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, on the condition that R
1 + R
2>10, for instance purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate) , isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C
12-C
15 alkyl benzoates, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, alkyl or polyalkyl heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate and 2-octyldodecyl lactate; polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters,
- fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature, with a branched and/or unsaturated carbon-based chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for instance octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol and 2-undecylpentadecanol,
- optionally hydroxylated monoesters, diesters or triesters of a C
2-C
8 monocarboxylic or polycarboxylic acid and of a C
2-C
8 alcohol, in particular:
-- optionally hydroxylated monoesters of a C
2-C
8 carboxylic acid and of a C
2-C
8 alcohol, such as isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate,
-- optionally hydroxylated diesters of a C
2-C
8 dicarboxylic acid and of a C
2-C
8 alcohol, such as diisopropyl adipate, 2-diethylhexyl adipate, dibutyl adipate, diisostearyl adipate or 2-diethylhexyl succinate,
-- optionally hydroxylated triesters of a C
2-C
8 tricarboxylic acid and of a C
2-C
8 alcohol, such as citric acid esters, such as trioctyl citrate, triethyl citrate, acetyl tributyl citrate, tributyl citrate or acetyl tributyl citrate;
- a mixture thereof.
Preferably, the hydrocarbon-based oil is chosen from optionally hydroxylated monoesters, diesters or triesters of a C
2-C
8 monocarboxylic or polycarboxylic acid and of a C
2-C
8 alcohol.
In a preferred embodiment, the oily phase contains isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate and acetyl tributyl citrate as oils.
Preferably, the hydrocarbon-based oil represents all oil (s) in the fatty phase, or are present in a predominant weight content relative to the additional oil (s) that may be present in the fatty phase.
Preferably, the hydrocarbon-based oil is present in amount ranging from 0.5 %to 10%by weight, preferably from 0.8%to 8%by weight, more preferably from 1%to 5%by weight, relative to the total weight of the two-phase composition.
Non-ionic surfactant
According to the first aspect of the present invention, the fatty phase of the two-phase composition contains at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters of glycerol.
Surfactants are usually organic compounds that are amphiphilic, meaning that they contain both hydrophobic groups (their tails) and hydrophilic groups (their heads) . By “non-ionic surfactant” is meant a surfactant which has no charged groups in its head (i.e. the charge of the hydrophilic group is neutral) .
According to the present invention, the oxyalkylene chain of the oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters of glycerol is preferably an oxyethylene chain.
More preferably, it may contain, for example, from 1 to 150 oxyalkylene and especially oxyethylene groups, and preferably from 2 to 100 oxyalkylene and especially oxyethylene groups.
Examples of oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters of glycerol that may be mentioned more particularly include (INCI name) PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, and mixtures thereof.
As illustration of the nonionic surfactants, mentions may be made of PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate, such as those sold by the company Nihon Emulsion under the tradename Emalex Gwis-320EX.
The composition may also contain one or more other nonionic surfactants.
Examples of other nonionic surfactants that may be mentioned include oxyalkylenated fatty acid ester of sorbitan, esters of fatty acids and of polyols; oxyalkylenated or non-oxyalkylenated ethers of fatty alcohols and of polyols, and mixtures thereof.
Surfactants of this type that may be mentioned more particularly include:
- oxyethylenated fatty acid esters of sorbitan such as (INCI name) Polysorbate 20, Polysorbate 65, Polysorbate 85, PEG-5 sorbitan isostearate, PEG-20 sorbitan triisostearate, PEG-20 sorbitan isostearate, PEG-40 sorbitan septaoleate, PEG-20 sorbitan tetraoleate and PEG-20 sorbitan trioleate;
- fatty acid esters of polyglycerol such as (INCI name) Polyglyceryl-3 Triisostearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-6 Isostearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Trioleate or Polyglyceryl-10 Trilaurate;
- fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol such as (INCI name) PEG-8 Stearate, PEG-6Oleate, PEG-6 Isostearate, PEG-12 Isostearate, PEG-12 Diisostearate, PEG-8 Isostearate, PEG-8 Diisostearate or PEG-10 Isostearate;
- oxyalkylenated, especially oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated, more particularly oxyethylenated, fatty alkyl ethers, for instance ceteareth-12 and ceteareth-20 (INCI name) , and also mixtures containing them, for instance the mixture sold under the name Emulgade CM by the company Cognis (mixture of cetearyl isononanoate, ceteareth-20, cetearyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate, glycerol, ceteareth-12 and cetyl palmitate) ;
- and mixtures thereof.
Mentions may be made of polysorbate 20, such as those sold by the company Croda under the tradename Tween
TM 20-LQ- (AP) .
Advantageously, the non-ionic surfactant is present in amount ranging from 0.1%to 1%by weight, preferably from 0.1%to 0.8%by weight, preferably from 0.15%to 0.5%by weight, relative to the total weight of the two-phase composition.
Cosmetic active agent (s)
Depend on the final purpose, the two-phase composition can comprises a cosmetic active agent (s) in one or other phase depending on their hydrophilic or lipophilic nature.
As cosmetic active agents that may be used in the two-phase composition of the present invention, especially when it is a skincare composition, examples that may be mentioned include enzymes; flavonoids; moisturizers anti-inflammatory agents; vitamins; moisturing agents, brightening or whitening agents, peeling agents, antiaging agents, antioxidants, depigmenting agents; α-hydroxy acids; retinoids; antibacterial active agents; tensioning agents; ceramides; essential oils; UV-screening agents (or sunscreens) , and mixtures thereof.
It is easy for the skilled in the art to adjust the amount of the cosmetic active agent based on the final use of the two-phase composition.
Adjuvants or additives
The composition according to the present invention may also contain conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, which will be in one or other phase depending on their hydrophilic or lipophilic nature, for instance chelating agent (e.g. trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate) , fragrances, preserving agents (e.g. phenoxyethanol) and bactericides, opacifiers, dyes, hydrotrope, solubilizers (e.g. PPG-6-DECYLTETRADECETH-30, METHYL GLUCETH-20) , softeners, buffers, electrolytes such as sodium chloride, or a pH regulator (for example citric acid or sodium hydroxide) , and mixtures thereof.
According to an embodiment of the present invention, the two-phase composition contains phenoxyethanol as preserving agent in the aqueous phase.
The preserving agent, when presents in the two-phase composition, generally represent from 0.1%to 1%by weight, preferably from 0.2%to 0.8%by weight and better still from 0.3%to 0.6%by weight relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase.
Needless to say, the skilled in the art will take care to select the optional adjuvant (s) added to the composition according to the present invention such that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the composition according to the present invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition.
According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the two-phase composition for topical application comprises, relative to the total weight of the two-phase composition:
a) an aqueous phase containing
(i) from 0.3%to 1%by weight of at least one taurate surfactant chosen form sodium methyl lauroyl taurate, sodium methyl myristoyl taurate, sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, sodium methyl oleoyl taurate, potassium methyl lauroyl taurate, potassium methyl myristoyl taurate, potassium methyl cocoyl taurate, potassium methyl oleoyl taurate, ammonium methyl lauroyl taurate, ammonium methyl myristoyl taurate, ammonium methyl cocoyl taurate, and ammonium methyl oleoyl taurate; and
(ii) from 0.3%to 0.6%by weight of at least one lipophilic thickener selected from ammonium polyacryldimethyltauramide, xanthan gum, guar gum, gum Arabic, locus bean gum, acacia gum; and
b) a fatty phase containing
(i) from 1%to 5%by weight of at least one hydrocabon oil chosen from optionally hydroxylated monoesters, diesters or triesters of a C
2-C
8 monocarboxylic or polycarboxylic acid and of a C
2-C
8 alcohol; and
(ii) from 0.15%to 0.5%by weight of at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, and mixtures thereof;
wherein the aqueous phase and/or the fatty phase comprises a cosmetic active agent chosen from enzymes; flavonoids; moisturizers anti-inflammatory agents; vitamins; moisturing agents, brightening or whitening agents, peeling agents, antiaging agents, antioxidants, depigmenting agents; α-hydroxy acids; retinoids; antibacterial active agents; tensioning agents; ceramides; essential oils; UV-screening agents (or sunscreens) , and mixtures thereof;
wherein the aqueous phase and the fatty phase are separate.
The two-phase compositions described above may be conditioned, in a known manner, in a bottle with a single compartment. The user may then shake the bottle before pouring its contents onto a pad of cotton.
In a preferred embodiment, the two-phase composition is contained a package device comprising a container and a pipette, wherein the aqueous phase is contained in the container and the fatty phase is contained in the pipette.
Method and use
Another object of the present invention is to provide a process for caring for and/or making up keratin materials such as the skin, in particular the face, the lips and/or the eyes.
The two-phase composition according to the present invention may be used for any topical application.
In particular, the two-phase composition can be used for a non-therapeutic process, such as a cosmetic process, for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, such as the skin, in particular the face, the lips and/or the eyes.
Thus, according to the second aspect, the present invention provides a process for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, such as the skin, in particular the face, the lips and/or the eyes, comprising shaking the two-phase composition as described above to form an oil-in-water emulsion and applying the emulsion to the keratin materials.
All percentages in the present invention refer to weight percentage, unless otherwise specified.
The examples that follow are aimed at illustrating the two-phase composition according to this invention, but are not in any way a limitation of the scope of the invention. The names of the compounds are given as the chemical names or the INCI names.
EXAMPLES
Example 1: preparation of two-phase compositions
In this example, two-phase compositions of invention and comparative formulas were prepared.
*: Citric acid was used to adjust pH to 4.5.
First, fatty phases of two-phase compositions of above invention and comparative formulas were prepared according to the following formulas (the contents are expressed as weight percentages of active material, unless otherwise indicated) :
Procedure: cold mixing of the ingredients of the fatty phase.
Aqueous phases of two-phase compositions of above invention and comparative formulas were prepared according to the following formulas (the contents are expressed as weight percentages of active material, unless otherwise indicated) :
Procedure: cold mixing of the ingredients of the aqueous phase.
The two-phase compositions consisting of two separate phases were thus obtained.
Example 2: evaluation of two-phase compositions
The interface between the aqueous phase and the fatty phase of the two-phase composition of invention formula 1 before shaking was observed.
Upon shaking by hand, the stability of emulsions obtained from each two-phase composition of invention and comparative formulas prepared in the Example 1 was evaluated.
The stability tests at 25℃ for 2 months were conducted using Binder oven (USA) , by leaving the emulsions in the oven for 2 months.
The light stability tests for 24 hours were conducted using ATLAC (AMETEK Measurement and Calibration Technologies) .
The results of the tests for two-phase composition of invention and comparative formulas were listed below.
N.A.: not observed.
It was observed that after shaken by hand, the two-phase composition according to invention formula 1 showed a good stability, pearly appearance with a stable and uniform distribution of the visible oil droplets, and no phase separation even after 2 months′ standing at room temperature.
Claims (15)
- A two-phase composition for topical application comprising:a) an aqueous phase containing at least one taurate surfactant and at least one hydrophilic thickener; andb) a fatty phase containing at least one hydrocarbon oil and at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from oxyalkylenated fatty acid ester of glycerol,wherein the aqueous phase and the fatty phase are separate.
- The two-phase composition according to Claim 1, wherein an aqueous phase is present in an amount ranging from 50%to 99%by weight, preferably from 55%to 98%by weight, even more preferably from 60%to 97%by weight, relative to the total weight of the two-phase composition..
- The two-phase composition according to any one of claims 1-3, wherein the taurate surfactant is selected from sodium methyl lauroyl taurate, sodium methyl myristoyl taurate, sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, sodium methyl oleoyl taurate, potassium methyl lauroyl taurate, potassium methyl myristoyl taurate, potassium methyl cocoyl taurate, potassium methyl oleoyl taurate, ammonium methyl lauroyl taurate, ammonium methyl myristoyl taurate, ammonium methyl cocoyl taurate, and ammonium methyl oleoyl taurate.
- The two-phase composition according to any one of claims 1-4, wherein the taurate surfactant is present in an amount of from 0.1%to 1%by weight, preferably from 0.2%to 1%by weight, more preferably from 0.3%to 1%by weight, relative to the total weight of the two-phase composition.
- The two-phase composition according to any one of claims 1-5, wherein the lipophilic thickener is selected from 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymers and copolymers, and polysaccharide biopolymers.
- The two-phase composition according to any one of claims 1-6, wherein the lipophilic thickener is present in an amount of from 0.1%to 2%by weight, preferably from 0.2%to 1.5%by weight, more preferably from 0.3%to 1%by weight, relative to the total weight of the two-phase composition.
- The two-phase composition according to any one of claims 1-7, wherein the fatty phase is present in an amount ranging from 1%to 50%by weight, preferably from 2%to 45%by weight, even more preferably from 3%to 40%by weight, relative to the total weight of the two-phase composition.
- The two-phase composition according to any one of claims 1-8, wherein the hydrocarbon-based oil is chosen from optionally hydroxylated triesters of a C 2-C 8 tricarboxylic acid and of a C 2-C 8 alcohol.
- The two-phase composition according to any one of claims 1-9, wherein the hydrocarbon-based oil is present in amount ranging from 0.5 %to 10%by weight, preferably from 0.8%to 8%by weight, more preferably from 1%to 5%by weight, relative to the total weight of the two-phase composition.
- The composition according to any one of claims 1-10, wherein the non-ionic surfactant is selected from oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters of glycerol containing 2 to 100 oxyethylene groups..
- The two-phase composition according to any one of claims 1-11, wherein the non-ionic surfactant is present in amount ranging from 0.1%to 1%by weight, preferably from 0.1%to 0.8%by weight, preferably from 0.15%to 0.5%by weight, relative to the total weight of the two-phase composition.
- The two-phase composition according to any one of claims 1-12, further comprising in the aqueous phase and/or the fatty phase a cosmetic active agent chosen from enzymes; flavonoids; moisturizers anti-inflammatory agents; vitamins; moisturing agents, brightening or whitening agents, peeling agents, antiaging agents, antioxidants, depigmenting agents; α-hydroxy acids; retinoids; antibacterial active agents; tensioning agents; ceramides; essential oils; UV-screening agents (or sunscreens) , and mixtures thereof.
- A two-phase composition for topical application comprising, relative to the total weight of the two-phase composition:a) an aqueous phase containing(i) from 0.3%to 1%by weight of at least one taurate surfactant chosen form sodium methyl lauroyl taurate, sodium methyl myristoyl taurate, sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, sodium methyl oleoyl taurate, potassium methyl lauroyl taurate, potassium methyl myristoyl taurate, potassium methyl cocoyl taurate, potassium methyl oleoyl taurate, ammonium methyl lauroyl taurate, ammonium methyl myristoyl taurate, ammonium methyl cocoyl taurate, and ammonium methyl oleoyl taurate; and(ii) from 0.3%to 0.6%by weight of at least one lipophilic thickener selected from ammonium polyacryldimethyltauramide, xanthan gum, guar gum, gum Arabic, locus bean gum, acacia gum; andb) a fatty phase containing(i) from 1%to 5%by weight of at least one hydrocabon oil chosen from optionally hydroxylated monoesters, diesters or triesters of a C 2-C 8 monocarboxylic or polycarboxylic acid and of a C 2-C 8 alcohol; and(ii) from 0.15%to 0.5%by weight of at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, and mixtures thereof;wherein the aqueous phase and/or the fatty phase comprises a cosmetic active agent chosen from enzymes; flavonoids; moisturizers anti-inflammatory agents; vitamins; moisturing agents, brightening or whitening agents, peeling agents, antiaging agents, antioxidants, depigmenting agents; α-hydroxy acids; retinoids; antibacterial active agents; tensioning agents; ceramides; essential oils; UV-screening agents (or sunscreens) , and mixtures thereof;wherein the aqueous phase and the fatty phase are separate.
- A process for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, such as the skin, in particular the face, the lips and/or the eyes, comprising shaking the two-phase composition according to any one of claims 1-14 to form an oil-in-water emulsion and applying the emulsion to the keratin materials.
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CN201980102565.1A CN114727911B (en) | 2019-11-29 | 2019-11-29 | Two-phase composition for topical application |
PCT/CN2019/121929 WO2021102897A1 (en) | 2019-11-29 | 2019-11-29 | Two-phase composition for topical application |
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