WO2021037713A1 - Substitut d'huile pour préparations cosmétiques - Google Patents

Substitut d'huile pour préparations cosmétiques Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2021037713A1
WO2021037713A1 PCT/EP2020/073488 EP2020073488W WO2021037713A1 WO 2021037713 A1 WO2021037713 A1 WO 2021037713A1 EP 2020073488 W EP2020073488 W EP 2020073488W WO 2021037713 A1 WO2021037713 A1 WO 2021037713A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
inci
preparation
oil
seed oil
preparation according
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/EP2020/073488
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Kerstin Skubsch
Kerstin Franck
Nadine Voigt
Jette Mareike NEBEN
Svea WISCHHÖFER
Katharina Herwig
Katrin Rupp
Original Assignee
Beiersdorf Ag
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Beiersdorf Ag filed Critical Beiersdorf Ag
Priority to EP20764041.8A priority Critical patent/EP4021381A1/fr
Publication of WO2021037713A1 publication Critical patent/WO2021037713A1/fr

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/732—Starch; Amylose; Amylopectin; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A61K8/062—Oil-in-water emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/342—Alcohols having more than seven atoms in an unbroken chain
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A61K8/375—Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
    • A61K2800/34—Free of silicones

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to the use of a mixture of a) hydroxypropyl starch phosphate (INCI: Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate) and b) octyldodecanol and / or triisostearin as a substitute for mineral and silicone oils in cosmetic preparations and their use in cosmetic preparations.
  • hydroxypropyl starch phosphate INCI: Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate
  • octyldodecanol and / or triisostearin as a substitute for mineral and silicone oils in cosmetic preparations and their use in cosmetic preparations.
  • Skin care products usually creams, ointments or lotions, are mostly used to moisturize and re-oil the skin. Often, active ingredients are added to them that regenerate the skin and, for example, prevent and reduce its premature aging (e.g. the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles).
  • cosmetics In addition to cleaning and caring for the skin, cosmetics also have an aesthetic function.
  • Cosmetics thus fulfill a psychological and social function, as they increase the (visual) attractiveness of the user.
  • This area includes, above all, “decorative” cosmetics, which change the appearance of the user with the help of dyes applied to the skin. But cleaning and care products also have a positive influence indirectly, since clean, healthy skin corresponds to people's ideal of beauty.
  • a cosmetic preparation in particular an emulsion and here an O / W emulsion
  • these preparations should ideally be “vegan”, that is, they should do without ingredients of animal origin.
  • the aim was to develop a preparation whose ingredients are of plant origin, whereby plant origin also includes substances whose starting material comes from plants and which then go through one or more derivatization steps (e.g. hydrolysis, esterification).
  • the objects are surprisingly achieved by using a mixture of a) hydroxypropyl starch phosphate (INCI: Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate) and b) octyldodecanol and / or triisostearin as a substitute for mineral and silicone oils in cosmetic preparations.
  • hydroxypropyl starch phosphate INCI: Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate
  • octyldodecanol and / or triisostearin as a substitute for mineral and silicone oils in cosmetic preparations.
  • a cosmetic preparation containing a mixture of a) hydroxypropyl starch phosphate (INCI: Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate) and b) octyldodecanol and / or triisostearin, the preparation being free from mineral oils, silicone oils, polyacrylates and xanthan gum. It is advantageous according to the invention if the weight ratio of a) hydroxypropyl starch phosphate to b) total amount of esters of octyldodecanol or triisostearin is from 5: 1 to 1: 5 and preferably from 2: 1 to 1: 2 according to the invention.
  • Hydroxypropyl starch phosphates such as those described in US Pat. No. 6,248,338 are particularly advantageous.
  • the embodiments of the present invention which are advantageous according to the invention are characterized in that one or more esters of caprylic acid and / or capric acid are selected as further ingredients from the group of the compounds caprylic acid / capric acid triglycerides (INCI: caprylic / capric triglyceride), caprylyl caprylate / caprate (INCI: CaprylylCaprylate / Caprate), coconut Caprylate / Caprate (INCI: Coco Caprylate / Caprate), coconut Glyceride (INCI: Coco Glycerides), Ethylhexyl Cocoate (INCI: Ethyl Hexyl Cocoate), Decylcocoat (INCI: Decyl Cocoamylate), Isoam Cocoate), Dicaprylyl Carbonate (INCI: Dicaprylyl Carbonate), coconut Caprylate (INCI: Coco-Caprylate)
  • the preparation contains the hydroxypropyl starch phosphate (INCI: Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate) in a concentration of 0.2 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.
  • hydroxypropyl starch phosphate INCI: Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate
  • the preparation contains the combination of hydroxypropyl starch phosphate and octyldodecanol, it is advantageous according to the invention if the preparation contains octyldodecanol in an amount of 0.1 to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.
  • the preparation contains the combination of hydroxypropyl starch phosphate and triisostearin, it is advantageous according to the invention if the preparation contains triisostearin in an amount of 0.1 to 3% by weight (and preferably up to 2% by weight), based on the total weight of the preparation.
  • the preparation contains the combination of hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, octyldodecanol and triisostearin
  • the preparation octyldodecanol in an amount of 0.1 to 2% by weight (preferably up to 1% by weight), based on the total weight of the preparation and triisostearin in an amount of 0.1 to 2% by weight (preferably up to 1.5% by weight), based on the total weight of the preparation.
  • preparations according to the invention are advantageously characterized in that the preparation is in the form of an emulsion.
  • the preparation is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion (O / W emulsion).
  • the particularly preferred embodiments according to the invention are characterized in that the preparation has one or more emulsifiers selected from the group of the compounds glyceryl stearate citrate (INCI: glyceryl stearate citrate), sodium stearoyl glutamate (INCI: sodium stearoyl glutamate), glyceryl stearate SE (INCI: glyceryl Stearate SE), Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate (INCLSodium Cetearyl Sulfate), Stearic Acid (INCI: Palmitic Acid + Stearic Acid + Myristic Acid + Arachidic Acid + Oleic Acid), Glyceryl Stearate (INCI: Glyceryl Stearate), Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate (INC. 3 Diisostearate) ) contains.
  • glyceryl stearate citrate ICI: glyceryl stearate citrate
  • sodium stearoyl glutamate ICI: sodium stearoy
  • the emulsifiers are used in a concentration of 0.1 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.
  • inventions of the present invention which are advantageous according to the invention are further characterized in that the preparation is free from polyethylene glycol ethers and esters and is free from parabens, methylisothiazolinone, chloromethylisothiazolinone and DMDM hydantoin.
  • preparation according to the invention should advantageously be free from animal components.
  • the preparation contains waxes and / or fatty alcohols.
  • waxes or fatty alcohols from the list of the following compounds are preferably used: cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, Butyrospermum Parkii butter, cetyl palmitate, methyl palmitate, myristyl myristate, hydrogenated coco-glycerides, myristyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, hydrogenated Castor Oil, Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter, Hydrogenated Rapeseed Oil, Caprylic / Capric / Myristic / Stearic Triglyceride, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Carnauba Wax, Candelilla Wax, Sunflower Wax, Tristearin.
  • the embodiments of the present invention that are advantageous according to the invention are characterized in that the preparation contains additional vegetable oils selected from the group Persea Gratissima Oil, Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Silybum Marianum Seed Oil, Oenothera Biennis Oil, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil, Cannabis Sativa Seed Oil, Olus Oil, Vegetable Oil, Gossypium Herbaceum Seed Oil, Arctium Lappa Seed Oil, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil, Zea Mays Germ Oil, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, Glycine Soja Oil, Helianthus Annuus Hybrid Oil,
  • the preparation contains one or more lipophilic components selected from the group of the compounds dicaprylyl ether, decyl oleate, squalane, shea butter ethyl ester, triheptanoin, hexyl decyl sterate, isoamyl laurate.
  • Advantageous embodiments of the present invention are also characterized in that the preparation contains one or more alkanediols from the group of compounds 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-octanediol, 1,2-decanediol, 2-methyl Contains 1, 3-propanediol, ethylhexylglycerin.
  • Embodiments of the present invention which are advantageous according to the invention are characterized in that the preparation has one or more compounds selected from the group of compounds alpha-lipoic acid, folic acid, phytoene, D-biotin, coenzyme Q10, alpha-glucosyl rutin, carnitine, carnosine, natural isoflavonoids, flavonoids , Creatine, creatinine, taurine, b-alanine, tocopherol, panthenol, magnolol, honokiol, glycerylglycose, hyaluronic acid and / or salts thereof and / or licochalcone A.
  • the preparation has one or more compounds selected from the group of compounds alpha-lipoic acid, folic acid, phytoene, D-biotin, coenzyme Q10, alpha-glucosyl rutin, carnitine, carnosine, natural isoflavonoids, flavonoids , Creatine, creat
  • compositions according to the invention can also contain further cosmetic ingredients.
  • the preparation contains fillers, in particular tapioca starch.
  • the use concentration advantageous according to the invention for tapioca starch is 0.05 to 3.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.
  • Tapioca starch has the advantage over other fillers such as zinc oxide that the preparation does not become too firm.
  • the water phase of the preparations according to the invention can advantageously contain customary cosmetic auxiliaries, such as, for example, alcohols, in particular those with a low carbon number, preferably ethanol.
  • customary cosmetic auxiliaries such as, for example, alcohols, in particular those with a low carbon number, preferably ethanol.
  • the effect according to the invention could be demonstrated by way of example with the following experiment: The preparations cream 10, cream 11 and cream 12 of the example formulations were produced and their whiteness was determined when they were distributed on the skin.
  • test products are evaluated by trained subjects (panelists, approx. 10-15) using a highly standardized procedure.
  • the products are applied to the inside of the forearm, distributed and rated directly. The higher the value, the more pronounced the whiteness of the product.

Landscapes

  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Emergency Medicine (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Oil, Petroleum & Natural Gas (AREA)
  • Dispersion Chemistry (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention concerne l'utilisation d'un mélange a) de phosphate d'amidon hydroxypropylique (INCI : hydroxypropyl starch phosphate) et b) d'octyldodécanol et/ou de triisostéarine comme substitut aux huiles minérales et de silicone dans des préparations cosmétiques et leur utilisation dans des préparations cosmétiques.
PCT/EP2020/073488 2019-08-27 2020-08-21 Substitut d'huile pour préparations cosmétiques WO2021037713A1 (fr)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP20764041.8A EP4021381A1 (fr) 2019-08-27 2020-08-21 Substitut d'huile pour préparations cosmétiques

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE102019212792.4 2019-08-27
DE102019212792.4A DE102019212792A1 (de) 2019-08-27 2019-08-27 Ölersatz für kosmetische Zubereitungen

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO2021037713A1 true WO2021037713A1 (fr) 2021-03-04

Family

ID=72266273

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
PCT/EP2020/073488 WO2021037713A1 (fr) 2019-08-27 2020-08-21 Substitut d'huile pour préparations cosmétiques

Country Status (3)

Country Link
EP (1) EP4021381A1 (fr)
DE (1) DE102019212792A1 (fr)
WO (1) WO2021037713A1 (fr)

Families Citing this family (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN114679905A (zh) * 2019-08-28 2022-06-28 拜尔斯道夫股份有限公司 不含丙烯酸酯和有机硅的化妆品o/w乳液

Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US6248338B1 (en) 1996-07-08 2001-06-19 National Starch And Chemical Investment Holding Corporation Starchy cleaning and cosmetic care preparations
EP1294772A1 (fr) * 2000-06-26 2003-03-26 National Starch and Chemical Investment Holding Corporation Copolyol polysaccharide et dimethicone utilise comme emulsionneur pour compositions cosmetiques
WO2007017196A2 (fr) * 2005-08-10 2007-02-15 Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft Auf Aktien Emulsions huile dans l'eau
DE102009050430A1 (de) * 2009-10-22 2010-06-17 Cognis Ip Management Gmbh Kosmetische Zubereitungen
WO2018162288A1 (fr) * 2017-03-07 2018-09-13 Beiersdorf Ag Mélange lipidique constitué d'octyldodécanol et d'huile de colza hydrogénée

Family Cites Families (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE10216511A1 (de) * 2002-04-11 2003-10-23 Beiersdorf Ag Stärkehaltige kosmetische Tücher

Patent Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US6248338B1 (en) 1996-07-08 2001-06-19 National Starch And Chemical Investment Holding Corporation Starchy cleaning and cosmetic care preparations
EP1294772A1 (fr) * 2000-06-26 2003-03-26 National Starch and Chemical Investment Holding Corporation Copolyol polysaccharide et dimethicone utilise comme emulsionneur pour compositions cosmetiques
WO2007017196A2 (fr) * 2005-08-10 2007-02-15 Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft Auf Aktien Emulsions huile dans l'eau
DE102009050430A1 (de) * 2009-10-22 2010-06-17 Cognis Ip Management Gmbh Kosmetische Zubereitungen
WO2018162288A1 (fr) * 2017-03-07 2018-09-13 Beiersdorf Ag Mélange lipidique constitué d'octyldodécanol et d'huile de colza hydrogénée

Non-Patent Citations (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Title
"Cetiol MC (INCI: Methyl Canolate, proposed) ED - Darl Kuhn", IP.COM, IP.COM INC., WEST HENRIETTA, NY, US, 22 June 2017 (2017-06-22), XP013175234, ISSN: 1533-0001 *

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
EP4021381A1 (fr) 2022-07-06
DE102019212792A1 (de) 2021-03-04

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