WO2021028094A1

WO2021028094A1 - Method for the decolorization of keratin material that has been dyed using an organosilicon compound and a pigment

Info

Publication number: WO2021028094A1
Application number: PCT/EP2020/065800
Authority: WO
Inventors: Torsten LECHNER; Phillip Jaiser; Carsten MATHIASZYK; Udo Erkens
Original assignee: Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa
Priority date: 2019-08-14
Filing date: 2020-06-08
Publication date: 2021-02-18
Also published as: DE102019212167A1

Abstract

The invention relates to a method for the decolorization of keratin material that has been dyed using at least one organosilicon compound and at least one pigment. According to said method, a decolorant, containing (a) at least one solvent and (b) at least one cationic surfactant, is applied to the dyed keratin material and rinsed out after a certain exposure time.

Description

Process for decolorizing keratinous material which has been colored by using an organosilicon compound and a pigment

The present application is in the field of cosmetics and relates to a method for decolorizing keratin material which has been colored by using at least one organosilicon compound and at least one pigment. The decolorizing agent applied in this process is characterized by its content of at least one solvent and at least one cationic surfactant. The decolorizing agent is applied to the colored keratin material and rinsed off again after an exposure time.

A second subject of the present application is a method for coloring and later decolorizing keratin material, in which first a colorant containing an organosilicon compound and a pigment is applied to the keratin, and later the decolorization is carried out using the decolorizing means described above.

A third subject matter of the present application is a multi-component packaging unit which contains the dye and the decolorizing agent in separately packaged containers. Finally, a fourth subject is the use of the decolorizing agent for decolorizing appropriately colored keratin material.

The change in the shape and color of keratinic fibers, in particular of hair, represents an important area of modern cosmetics. The person skilled in the art knows various coloring systems for changing the hair color, depending on the coloring requirements. Oxidation dyes are usually used for permanent, intense dyeings with good fastness properties and good gray coverage. Such colorants usually contain oxidation dye precursors, so-called developer components and coupler components, which, under the influence of oxidizing agents such as hydrogen peroxide, form the actual dyes with one another. Oxidation dyes are characterized by very long-lasting coloring results.

If substantive dyes are used, dyes that have already been developed diffuse from the dye into the hair fiber. Compared to oxidative hair coloring, the coloring obtained with substantive dyes is less durable and can be washed out more quickly. Colorations with substantive dyes usually remain on the hair for a period of between 5 and 20 washes. The use of color pigments is known for brief color changes on the hair and / or the skin. Color pigments are generally understood to mean insoluble, coloring substances. These are present undissolved in the form of small particles in the coloring formulation and are only deposited on the outside of the hair fibers and / or the skin surface. Therefore, they can usually be removed without residue by a few washes with detergents containing surfactants. Various products of this type are available on the market under the name of hair mascara.

Recently, attention has been paid to a new coloring system in which coloring is colored by using a combination of a pigment, an organic silicon compound and a polymer. This new dyeing system is described in EP 2168633 B1, for example.

When these organic silicon compounds are used on keratin material, a film or also a coating is formed on the keratin material, which completely envelops the keratin material and in this way strongly influences the properties of the keratin material. If the application takes place in the presence of a coloring compound, for example a pigment, the pigments are embedded in this film or in the coating. The film colored by the pigment remains on the keratin material or the keratin fibers. The dyeings obtained in this way should be particularly resistant to shampooing.

In this dyeing process, too, it can happen that the dyeing should be completely or partially reversed for various reasons. Partial removal of the dye may be necessary, for example, if the dye on the fibers turns out to be darker than desired. On the other hand, complete removal of the color may also be desirable in some cases. For example, it is conceivable that the hair should be colored or tinted in a certain shade for a specific occasion and the original color should be regained after a few days.

The object of the present invention was therefore to provide a decolorizing agent for decolorizing colored keratin fibers which had previously been colored by using at least one organosilicon compound, in particular an alkoxy-silane, and at least one pigment. The discoloration should be as complete as possible, so that the color of the keratin material can ideally be returned to its original state. Furthermore, the decolorization should be long-lasting and even, and the decolorized keratin fibers should neither suffer shifts in shade nor unevenness in the color result. In addition, the keratin material should be damaged as little as possible by the decolorizing agent. Surprisingly, it has now been found that this object can be achieved in full if keratinous material, which has previously been colored with at least one organosilicon compound and with at least one pigment, is treated with a decolorizing agent which contains at least one solvent and at least one contains cationic surfactant.

A first object of the present invention is a process for decolorizing keratin material which has been colored by using at least one organosilicon compound and at least one pigment, containing a decolorizing agent

(a) at least one solvent and

(b) at least one cationic surfactant is applied to the colored keratin material and rinsed off again after an exposure time.

In the experiments leading to this invention, keratin fibers (strands of hair) were used, for example, which had previously been colored with an agent which contained various organosilicon compounds (such as C ₁ -C ₆ alkoxysilanes) and various pigments (such as organic and inorganic pigments) . After being dyed, these fibers were decolored again by using a decolorizing agent according to the invention. In this context it has surprisingly been found that a decolorizing agent which contains the combination of solvent (a) and cationic surfactant (b) is able to remove the colored film formed from organosilicon compound and pigment almost completely from the keratin fiber. In this way it became possible to restore the original color of the hair and to restore the keratin fibers to their original color.

Discoloration of keratinic material

Keratinic material is understood to mean hair, skin, and nails (such as fingernails and / or toenails, for example). Furthermore, wool, furs and feathers also fall under the definition of keratinic material.

Keratinic material is preferably understood to mean human hair, human skin and human nails, in particular fingernails and toenails. Keratinic material is very particularly preferably understood to mean human hair.

In the context of this invention, the term “means for decolorization” is understood to mean that a coloration on the keratin material which has been produced by using at least one organosilicon compound and at least one pigment can be removed again. With this coloring, the keratin material or the keratin fiber is enveloped by a colored film which is formed from the organosilicon compounds and the pigments. The application According to the invention, the decolorizing agent takes place after the application of the coloring agent and is able to remove this colored film again from the keratin material.

The process according to the invention is characterized by the use of the decolorizing agent on keratin material which has previously been colored by using at least one organosilicon compound and at least one pigment.

Coloring using organic silicon compounds

In the method according to the invention, the decolorizing agent is applied to previously colored keratin material. During the previous coloring, at least one organosilicon compound is used on the keratin material.

Organic silicon compounds, which are alternatively referred to as organosilicon compounds, are compounds that either have a direct silicon-carbon bond (Si-C) or in which the carbon is attached to the silicon via an oxygen, nitrogen or sulfur atom. Atom is linked. The organic silicon compounds according to the invention are preferably compounds which contain one to three silicon atoms. The organic silicon compounds particularly preferably contain one or two silicon atoms.

The decolorizing agent works particularly well on colored keratin material if an organic C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxy-silane was used in the previous coloring.

The organic C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxy-silane (s) are organic, non-polymeric silicon compounds which are preferably selected from the group of silanes having one, two or three silicon atoms.

According to the IUPAC rules, the term silane stands for a group of chemical compounds based on a silicon backbone and hydrogen. In the case of organic silanes, the hydrogen atoms have been completely or partially replaced by organic groups such as, for example, (substituted) alkyl groups and / or alkoxy groups.

It is characteristic of the invention C ₁ -C ₆ alkoxy-silanes that at least one C1-C ₆ - alkoxy group is bonded directly to a silicon atom. The C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxy-silanes according to the invention thus comprise at least one structural unit R'R "R"'Si-O- (C ₁ -C ₆ -alkyl) where the radicals R', R "and R"'represent the three remaining bond valences of the silicon atom.

The C ₁ -C ₆ alkoxy group or groups bonded to the silicon atom are very reactive and are hydrolyzed at a high rate in the presence of water, the rate of reaction also depending, inter alia, on the number of hydrolyzable groups per molecule depends. If the hydrolyzable C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxy group is an ethoxy group, the organic silicon compound preferably contains a structural unit R'R "R"'Si-O-CH ₂ -CH ₃ . The radicals R ', R “and R“' again represent the three remaining free valences of the silicon atom.

Even the addition of small amounts of water initially leads to hydrolysis and then to a condensation reaction of the organic alkoxysilanes with one another. For this reason, both the organic alkoxysilanes (A2) and their condensation products can be included in the composition.

A condensation product is understood to mean a product that is formed by the reaction of at least two organic C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxy-silanes with elimination of water and / or with elimination of a C ₁ -C ₆ -alkanol.

The condensation products can be, for example, dimers, but also trimers or oligomers, the condensation products being in equilibrium with the monomers.

Depending on the amount of water used or consumed in the hydrolysis, the equilibrium shifts from monomeric C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxysilane to condensation product.

In a particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent is applied to keratin material, which is obtained by using at least one organic C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxysilane and / or a condensation product thereof and by using at least one pigment was colored.

The organic C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxysilanes can, for example, be compounds selected from silanes having one, two or three silicon atoms, the organic silicon compound also comprising one or more basic chemical functions.

This basic group can be, for example, an amino group, an alkylamino group or a dialkylamino group, which is preferably connected to a silicon atom via a linker. The basic group is preferably an amino group, a C ₁ -C ₆ -alkylamino group or a di (C ₁ -C ₆ ) alkylamino group.

A particularly preferred method according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent is applied to keratin material which has been colored by using at least one organic C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxysilane and / or a condensation product thereof and by using at least one pigment, wherein the C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxy-silane further comprises one or more basic chemical functions. Particularly good results could be obtained when the decolorizing agent was applied to keratin material which had previously been colored with C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxy-silanes of the formula (S1) and / or (S-II). Since, as already described above, hydrolysis / condensation begins even with traces of moisture, the coloring of the keratin material with C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxy-silanes of the formula (S1) and / or (S-II) also includes the use of their condensation products .

In a further very particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent is applied to keratin material, which is obtained by using at least one organic C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxysilane of the formula (S1) and / or (S-II ) and colored with a pigment,

RiR2N-L-Si (OR3) a (R4) b (S-l) where

Ri, R2 independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom or a C ₁ -C ₆ -alkyl group,

L stands for a linear or branched, divalent C ₁ -C 20 alkylene group,

R3, R4 independently of one another represent a C ₁ -C ₆ -alkyl group, a, represents an integer from 1 to 3, and b represents the integer 3 - a, and

(R50) c (R6) dSi- (A) e- [NR7- (A ')] f- [0- (A ”)] g- [NR8- (A”')] h-Si (R6 ') d '(OR5') c '(S-II), where

R5, R5 ', R5 ", R6, R6' and R6" independently represent a C ₁ -C ₆ -alkyl group,

A, A ', A ", A"' and A "" independently of one another represent a linear or branched, divalent C ₁ -C 20 alkylene group,

R7 and Re independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a C ₁ -C ₆ -alkyl group, a hydroxy-C ₁ -C ₆ -alkyl group, a C ₂ -C ₆ -alkenyl group, an amino-C ₁ -C ₆ -alkyl group or a group of the formula (S-III),

- (A ““) - Si (R6 “) d“ (OR ₅ “) c“ (S-Ill),

- c, stands for an integer from 1 to 3,

- d stands for the whole number 3 - c,

- c ‘stands for an integer from 1 to 3,

- d 'stands for the whole number 3 - c', - c "stands for an integer from 1 to 3,

- d "stands for the whole number 3 - c" stands,

- e stands for 0 or 1,

- f stands for 0 or 1,

- g stands for 0 or 1,

- h stands for 0 or 1,

- With the proviso that at least one of the radicals from e, f, g and h is different from 0.

The substituents Ri, R2, R3, R4, R5, R5 ', R5 ", R6, R6', R6", R7, R ₈ , L, A, A ', A ", A"' and A "" in the Compounds of the formula (SI) and (S-II) are explained below by way of example:

Examples of a C ₁ -C ₆ -alkyl group are the groups methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, s-butyl and t-butyl, n-pentyl and n-hexyl. Propyl, ethyl and methyl are preferred alkyl radicals. Examples of a C ₂ -C ₆ -alkenyl group are vinyl, allyl, but-2-enyl, but-3-enyl and isobutenyl, preferred C ₂ -C ₆ -alkenyl radicals are vinyl and allyl. Preferred examples of a hydroxy-C ₁ -C ₆ -alkyl group are a hydroxymethyl, a 2-hydroxyethyl, a 2-hydroxypropyl, a 3-hydroxypropyl, a 4-hydroxybutyl group, a 5-hydroxypentyl and a 6 -Hydroxyhexyl group; a 2-hydroxyethyl group is particularly preferred. Examples of an amino-C ₁ -C ₆ -alkyl group are the aminomethyl group, the 2-aminoethyl group and the 3-aminopropyl group. The 2-aminoethyl group is particularly preferred. Examples of a linear divalent C ₁ -C ₂₀ alkylene group are, for example, the methylene group (-CH ₂ -), the ethylene group (-CH ₂ -CH ₂ -), the propylene group (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -CH ₂ - ) and the butylene group (-CH ₂ -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -). The propylene group (-CH ₂ -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -) is particularly preferred. From a chain length of 3 carbon atoms, divalent alkylene groups can also be branched. Examples of branched, divalent C3-C ₂₀ alkylene groups are (-CH ₂ - CH (CH ₃ ) -) and (-CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -CH ₂ -).

In the organic silicon compounds of the formula (S-l)

RiR2N-L-Si (OR3) a (R4) b (Sl), the radicals Ri and R ₂ independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom or a C ₁ -C ₆ -alkyl group. The radicals Ri and R ₂ are very particularly preferably both a hydrogen atom.

In the middle part of the organic silicon compound is the structural unit or the linker -L- which stands for a linear or branched, divalent C ₁ -C ₂₀ -alkylene group. The divalent C ₁ - C ₂₀ alkylene group may alternatively be referred to as a divalent or a divalent C ₁ -C ₂₀ alkylene group, by which is meant that each group -L- may enter into two bonds. -L- is preferably a linear, divalent C ₁ -C ₂₀ alkylene group. With further preference -L- stands for a linear divalent C ₁ -C ₆ alkylene group. -L- is particularly preferably a methylene group (-CH ₂ -), an ethylene group (-CH ₂ -CH ₂ -), a propylene group (-CH ₂ -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -) or a butylene group (-CH ₂ - CH ₂ -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -). L very particularly preferably represents a propylene group (—CH ₂ —CH ₂ —CH ₂ -).

The organic silicon compounds of the invention of the formula (S-l)

RiR2N-L-Si (OR3) a (R4) b (Sl), each carry the silicon-containing group -Si (OR3) a (R ₄ ) t _{> at one end}

In the terminal structural unit -Si (OR3) a (R ₄ ) b, the radicals R3 and R4 independently of one another represent a C ₁ -C ₆ -alkyl group, particularly preferably R3 and R ₄ independently of one another represent a methyl group or an ethyl group.

Here a stands for an integer from 1 to 3, and b stands for the integer 3 - a. If a is 3, then b is 0. If a is 2, then b is 1. If a is 1, then b is 2.

The use of the deinking agent according to the invention was particularly particularly successful when the keratin of the formula (Sl) previously stained with an organic C ₁ -C ₆ alkoxy-silane, in which the radicals R 3, R ₄ independently represent a methyl group or stand for an ethyl group.

Furthermore, the use of the decolorizing agent according to the invention was also particularly successful when the keratin material was previously colored with an organic C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxy-silane of the formula (S1), in which the radical a stands for the number 3. In this case, the remainder b stands for the number 0.

In a further preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent is applied to keratin material, which is obtained by using at least one organic C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxysilane of the formula (I) and / or a condensation product thereof and was colored by applying at least one pigment,

RiR2N-L-Si (OR3) a (R4) b (Sl), where - Ri, R2 both stand for a hydrogen atom, and

- L is a linear, divalent C ₁ -C ₆ alkylene group, preferably a propylene group (- CH ₂ --CH ₂ --CH ₂ -) or an ethylene group (--CH ₂ --CH ₂ -),

- R3 stands for an ethyl group or a methyl group,

- R4 stands for a methyl group or for an ethyl group,

- a stands for the number 3 and

- b stands for the number 0.

Silicon compounds of the formula (I) which can be removed particularly easily by the subsequent use of the decolorizing agent are - (3-aminopropyl) triethoxysilane

- (3-aminopropyl) trimethoxysilane

- (2-aminoethyl) triethoxysilane

- (2-aminoethyl) trimethoxysilane

- (3-Dimethylaminopropyl) triethoxysilane

- (3-Dimethylaminopropyl) trimethoxysilane

- (2-Dimethylaminoethyl) triethoxysilane.

- (2-Dimethylaminoethyl) trimethoxysilane and / or

In a further preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent is applied to keratin material which is Use of at least one organic C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxysilane and / or a condensation product thereof and colored by using at least one pigment, the organic C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxysilane being selected from the group

- (3-aminopropyl) triethoxysilane

- (3-aminopropyl) trimethoxysilane

- (2-aminoethyl) triethoxysilane

- (2-aminoethyl) trimethoxysilane

- (3-Dimethylaminopropyl) triethoxysilane

- (3-Dimethylaminopropyl) trimethoxysilane

- (2-Dimethylaminoethyl) triethoxysilane and / or

- (2-dimethylaminoethyl) trimethoxysilane.

The aforementioned organic silicon compounds of the formula (I) are commercially available. (3-Aminopropyl) trimethoxysilane can be purchased from Sigma-Aldrich, for example. (3-Aminopropyl) triethoxysilane is also commercially available from Sigma-Aldrich.

In a further embodiment of the method according to the invention, the keratin material can also be colored beforehand by using one or more organic C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxy-silanes of the formula (S-II),

(R50) c (R6) dSi- (A) e- [NR7- (A ')] f- [0- (A ”)] g- [NR8- (A”')] h-Si (R6 ') d '(OR5') c '(S-ll).

The organosilicon compounds of the formula (S-II) according to the invention each have the silicon-containing groups (R50) _c (R6) dSi and -Si (R6 ') d' (OR5 ') c at their two ends

In the middle part of the molecule of the formula (S-II) are the groupings - (A) _e - and - [NR7- (A ')] _f and - [O- (A ”)] _g - and - [NR8- ( A '”)] _h - Here, each of the radicals e, f, g and h can independently stand for the number 0 or 1, with the proviso that at least one of the radicals e, f, g and h is different from 0 . In other words, an organic silicon compound of the formula (II) according to the invention contains at least one group from the group consisting of - (A) - and - [NR ₇ - (A ') j- and - [O- (A ”) j- and - [NR ₈ - (A ”')] -

In the two terminal structural units (R50) _c (R6) dSi and - Si (R6 ') d' (OR5 ') c, the radicals R5, R5', R5 ”independently of one another represent a C ₁ -C ₆ -alkyl group. The radicals R6, R6 'and R6 ″ stand independently of one another for a C ₁ -C ₆ -alkyl group.

Here, c stands for an integer from 1 to 3, and d stands for the integer 3 - c. If c is 3, then d is 0. If c is 2, d is 1. If c is 1, then d is 2. Similarly, c 'stands for an integer from 1 to 3, and d' stands for the integer 3 - c '. If c 'stands for the number 3, then d' equals 0. If c 'stands for the number 2, then d' equals 1. If c 'stands for the number 1, then d' equals 2.

Dyeings with the best wash fastness could be obtained if the residues c and c ‘both stand for the number 3. In this case d and d ‘both stand for the number 0.

In a further preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent is applied to keratin material which is obtained by using at least one organic C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxysilane of the formula (II) and / or a condensation product thereof and was colored by applying at least one pigment,

- R5 and R5 ‘independently represent a methyl group or an ethyl group,

- c and c ‘both stand for the number 3 and

- d and d ‘both stand for the number 0.

If c and c ‘both stand for the number 3 and d and d‘ both stand for the number 0, the organic silicon compounds according to the invention correspond to the formula (S-Ila)

(R50) 3Si- (A) e- [NR7- (A ')] f- [0- (A ”)] _g - [NR8- (A'”)] h-Si (OR5 ') 3 (S- Ila).

The radicals e, f, g and h can independently represent the number 0 or 1, at least one radical from e, f, g and h being different from zero. The abbreviations e, f, g and h are used to define which of the groupings - (A) _e - and - [NR7- (A ')] _f and - [O- (A ”)] _g - and - [NR8 - (A ”')] _h - are located in the central part of the organic silicon compound of the formula (II).

In this context, the presence of certain groups has proven to be particularly advantageous. Particularly good results could be obtained when at least two of the radicals e, f, g and h stand for the number 1. Very particularly preferably e and f both stand for the number 1. Furthermore, g and h both very particularly preferably stand for the number 0.

If e and f both stand for the number 1 and g and h both stand for the number 0, the organic silicon compounds according to the invention correspond to the formula (S-IIb) (R50) c (R6) dSi- (AHNR7- (A ')] - Si (R6') d '(OR5') c '(S-llb).

The radicals A, A ', A ", A"' and A "" stand independently of one another for a linear or branched, divalent C ₁ -C ₂₀ alkylene group. The radicals A, A ', A ", A"' and A "" are preferably, independently of one another, a linear, divalent C ₁ -C ₂₀ -alkylene group. The radicals A, A ', A ", A"' and A "" are more preferably, independently of one another, a linear divalent C ₁ -C ₆ alkylene group.

The bivalent C ₁ -C ₂₀ alkylene group may alternatively be as a divalent or divalent C ₁ - C ₂₀ alkylene group are referred to, by which is meant that each group A, A ', A ", A"' and A "" two Can form bonds.

The radicals A, A ', A ", A"' and A "" are particularly preferably, independently of one another, a methylene group (-CH ₂ -), an ethylene group (-CH ₂ -CH ₂ -), a propylene group (-CH ₂ -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -) or a butylene group (-CH ₂ -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -). The radicals A, A ', A ", A"' and A "" are very particularly preferably a propylene group (—CH ₂ —CH ₂ —CH ₂ -).

If the radical f stands for the number 1, then the organic silicon compound of the invention of the formula (II) contains a structural grouping - [NR7- (A ')] -.

If the radical h stands for the number 1, then the organic silicon compound of the invention of the formula (II) contains a structural grouping - [NR8- (A "’)] -.

Here, the radicals R ₇ and R ₈ independently represent a hydrogen atom, a C ₁ -C ₆ - alkyl group, a hydroxy-C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl group, a C ₂ -C ₆ alkenyl group, an amino-C ₁ - C ₆ alkyl group or a grouping of the formula (S-III)

- (A ““) - Si (R6 “) d“ (OR ₅ “) c“ (S-Ill).

The radicals R7 and R8 are very particularly preferably, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom, a methyl group, a 2-hydroxyethyl group, a 2-alkenyl group, a 2-aminoethyl group or a grouping of the formula (S-III).

If the radical f stands for the number 1 and the radical h stands for the number 0, the organic silicon compound according to the invention contains the grouping [NR7- (A ') j, but not the grouping - [NR8- (A ”')] if the radical R7 is a grouping of the formula (III), the organic silicon compound comprises 3 reactive silane groups.

In a further preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent is applied to keratin material which is Using at least one organic C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxysilane of the formula (II) and / or a condensation product thereof and colored by using at least one pigment,

(R50) c (R6) dSi- (A) e- [NR7- (A ')] f- [0- (A ”)] g- [NR8- (A”')] h-Si (R6 ') d '(OR5') c '(ll), where

- e and f both stand for the number 1,

- g and h both stand for the number 0,

- A and A 'independently of one another represent a linear, divalent C ₁ -C ₆ -alkylene group and

- R7 represents a hydrogen atom, a methyl group, a 2-hydroxyethyl group, a 2-alkenyl group, a 2-aminoethyl group or a grouping of the formula (S-III).

In a further preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent is applied to keratin material, which is obtained by using at least one organic C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxysilane of the formula (I) and / or a condensation product thereof and was colored by applying at least one pigment, wherein

- e and f both stand for the number 1,

- g and h both stand for the number 0,

- A and A 'independently of one another represent a methylene group (-CH ₂ -), an ethylene group (-CH ₂ -CH ₂ -) or a propylene group (-CH ₂ -CH ₂ -CH ₂ ), and

Silicon compounds of the formula (II) which can be removed particularly well by the subsequent use of the decolorizing agent are

- 3- (Trimethoxysilyl) -N- [3- (trimethoxysilyl) propyl] -1-propanamine

- 3- (Triethoxysilyl) -N- [3- (triethoxysilyl) propyl] -1-propanamine -N-methyl-3- (trimethoxysilyl) -N- [3- (trimethoxysilyl) propyl] -1-propanamine

-N-methyl-3- (triethoxysilyl) -N- [3- (triethoxysilyl) propyl] -1-propanamine

- 2- [bis [3- (trimethoxysilyl) propyl] amino] ethanol

- 2- [bis [3- (triethoxysilyl) propyl] amino] ethanol

- 3- (Trimethoxysilyl) -N, N-bis [3- (trimethoxysilyl) propyl] -1-propanamine

- 3- (Triethoxysilyl) -N, N-bis [3- (triethoxysilyl) propyl] -1-propanamine

- N1, N1-bis [3- (trimethoxysilyl) propyl] -1, 2-ethanediamine, - N1, N1-bis [3- (triethoxysilyl) propyl] -1, 2-ethanediamine,

- N, N-bis [3- (trimethoxysilyl) propyl] -2-propen-1-amine

- N, N-bis [3- (triethoxysilyl) propyl] -2-propen-1-amine

The aforementioned organic silicon compounds of the formula (S-II) are commercially available. Bis (trimethoxysilylpropyl) amine with the CAS number 82985-35-1 can be purchased from Sigma-Aldrich, for example.

Bis [3- (triethoxysilyl) propyl] amine with the CAS number 13497-18-2 can be purchased from Sigma-Aldrich, for example.

N-methyl-3- (trimethoxysilyl) -N- [3- (trimethoxysilyl) propyl] -1-propanamine is alternatively also referred to as bis (3-trimethoxysilylpropyl) -N-methylamine and can be purchased commercially from Sigma-Aldrich or Fluorochem .

3- (Triethoxysilyl) -N, N-bis [3- (triethoxysilyl) propyl] -1-propanamine with the CAS number 18784-74-2 can be purchased from Fluorochem or Sigma-Aldrich, for example.

In a further preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent is applied to keratin material which has been colored by using at least one organic C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxysilane and / or a condensation product thereof and by using at least one pigment, wherein the organic C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxysilane is selected from the group from

- 3- (Trimethoxysilyl) -N- [3- (trimethoxysilyl) propyl] -1-propanamine

- 3- (Triethoxysilyl) -N- [3- (triethoxysilyl) propyl] -1-propanamine

- N-methyl-3- (trimethoxysilyl) -N- [3- (trimethoxysilyl) propyl] -1-propanamine

- N-methyl-3- (triethoxysilyl) -N- [3- (triethoxysilyl) propyl] -1-propanamine

- 2- [bis [3- (trimethoxysilyl) propyl] amino] ethanol

- 2- [bis [3- (triethoxysilyl) propyl] amino] ethanol

- 3- (Trimethoxysilyl) -N, N-bis [3- (trimethoxysilyl) propyl] -1-propanamine

- 3- (Triethoxysilyl) -N, N-bis [3- (triethoxysilyl) propyl] -1-propanamine

- N1, N1-bis [3- (trimethoxysilyl) propyl] -1, 2-ethanediamine,

- N1, N1-bis [3- (triethoxysilyl) propyl] -1, 2-ethanediamine,

- N, N-bis [3- (trimethoxysilyl) propyl] -2-propene-1-amine and / or

- N, N-bis [3- (triethoxysilyl) propyl] -2-propen-1-amine.

In further dyeing / bleaching tests it has also been found to be particularly advantageous if at least one organic C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxy-silane (A2) of the formula (S-IV) was used to color the keratin material in the process according to the invention

R ₉ Si (ORio) k (Rn) m (S-IV).

The compounds of formula (S-IV) are organic silicon compounds selected from silanes having one, two or three silicon atoms, the organic silicon compound comprising one or more hydrolyzable groups per molecule. The organic silicon compound or compounds of the formula (S-IV) can also be referred to as silanes of the alkyl-C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxysilane type,

R ₉ Si (ORio) k (Rn) m (S-IV), where

- Rg stands for a C ₁ -C12 alkyl group,

- R10 stands for a C ₁ -C ₆ -alkyl group,

- R11 represents a C ₁ -C ₆ -alkyl group

- k stands for an integer from 1 to 3, and

- m stands for the integer 3 - k.

In the context of a further particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent is applied to keratin material, which is obtained by using at least one organic C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxysilane of the formula (S-IV) and / or a condensation product thereof and has been colored by the application of at least one pigment,

R ₉ Si (ORio) k (Rn) m (S-IV), where

Rg represents a C ₁ -C12 alkyl group,

Rio represents a C ₁ -C ₆ -alkyl group,

R11 is a C ₁ -C ₆ -alkyl group, k is an integer from 1 to 3, and m is the integer 3-k.

In the organic C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxy-silanes of the formula (S-IV), the radical Rg stands for a C1-C12-alkyl group. This C ₁ -C 12 -alkyl group is saturated and can be linear or branched. Rg is preferably a linear C ₁ -Cs-alkyl group. Rg preferably stands for a methyl group, an ethyl group, an n-propyl group, an n-butyl group, an n-pentyl group, an n-hexyl group, an n-octyl group or an n-dodecyl group. Rg particularly preferably represents a methyl group, an ethyl group or an n-octyl group.

In the organic silicon compounds of the formula (S-IV), the radical R10 stands for a C ₁ -C ₆ -alkyl group. R10 particularly preferably represents a methyl group or an ethyl group.

Alkyl group - into the organic silicon compounds of the formula (S-IV) the remainder Rn is a C1-C ₆ stands. Rn particularly preferably represents a methyl group or an ethyl group. Furthermore, k stands for an integer from 1 to 3, and m stands for the integer 3 - k. If k is 3, then m is 0. If k is 2, then m is 1. If k is the number 1, then m is 2.

Very good decolorization results could be obtained if the keratin material was first colored with an organic C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxy-silane of the formula (S-IV), in which the remainder k stands for the number 3. In this case, the remainder m stands for the number 0.

Organic silicon compounds of the formula (S-IV) which are particularly suitable for solving the problem according to the invention are methyltrimethoxysilane

-

- ethyltrimethoxysilane

- ethyltriethoxysilane - n-propyltrimethoxysilane (also called ans propyltrimethoxysilane)

- n-propyltriethoxysilane (also known as propyltriethoxysilane)

- n-Hexyltrimethoxysilane (also known as hexyltrimethoxysilane)

- n-Hexyltriethoxysilane (also called hexyltriethoxysilane) - n-Octyltrimethoxysilane (also called octyltrimethoxysilane)

- n-Octyltriethoxysilane (also called octyltriethoxysilane)

- n-Dodecyltrimethoxysilane (also referred to as dodecyltrimethoxysilane) and / or

- n-Dodecyltriethoxysilane (also known as dodecyltriethoxysilane).

In a further preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent is applied to keratin material which is obtained by using at least one organic C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxysilane and / or a condensation product thereof and by using at least one pigment was colored, the organic C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxysilane being selected from the group

- methyltrimethoxysilane,

- methyltriethoxysilane,

- ethyltrimethoxysilane,

- ethyltriethoxysilane,

- propyltrimethoxysilane,

- propyltriethoxysilane,

- hexyltrimethoxysilane,

- hexyltriethoxysilane,

- octyltrimethoxysilane,

- octyltriethoxysilane,

- Dodecyltrimethoxysilane, and / or

- dodecyltriethoxysilane.

The corresponding hydrolysis or condensation products are, for example, the following compounds:

Hydrolysis of C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxy-silane of the formula (S1) with water (reaction scheme using the example of 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane):

Depending on the amount of water used, the hydrolysis reaction can also take place several times per C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxy-silane used:

Hydrolysis of C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxy-silane of the formula (S-IV) with water (reaction scheme using the example of methyltrimethoxysilane):

Possible condensation reactions are, for example (shown using the mixture (3-aminopropyl) triethoxysilane and methyltrimethoxysilane):

and or

In the above exemplary reaction schemes, the condensation to form a dimer is shown in each case, but further condensation to form oligomers with several silane atoms are also possible and also preferred.

Both partially hydrolyzed and fully hydrolyzed C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxysilanes of the formula (S1), which undergo condensation with not yet reacted, partially or completely hydrolyzed C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxysilanes of the formula (S1), can take part in these condensation reactions. run through. In this case, the C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxysilanes of the formula (S1) react with themselves.

Furthermore, both partially hydrolyzed and fully hydrolyzed C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxysilanes of the formula (S1) can also take part in the condensation reactions, which condensation with as yet unreacted, partially or also completely hydrolyzed C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxysilanes of the formula (S. -IV). In this case, the C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxysilanes of the formula (S1) react with the C1-C ₆ -alkoxysilanes of the formula (S-IV).

In addition, both partially hydrolyzed and fully hydrolyzed C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxysilanes of the formula (S-IV), which undergo condensation with unreacted, partially or completely hydrolyzed C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxysilanes, can also take part in the condensation reactions Run through formula (S-IV). In this case, the C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxysilanes of the formula (S-IV) react with themselves.

Coloring using pigments

In the method according to the invention, the decolorizing agent is applied to previously colored keratin material. In addition to the at least one organosilicon compound, in particular the organic C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxysilane, at least one pigment is also used in the coloring.

Pigments in the context of the present invention are understood to mean coloring compounds which, at 25 ° C., have a solubility in water of less than 0.5 g / l, preferably of less than 0.1 g / L, even more preferably less than 0.05 g / L. The water solubility can be achieved, for example, using the method described below: Weigh out 0.5 g of the pigment in a beaker. A stir fry is added. Then one liter of distilled water is added. This mixture is heated to 25 ° C. for one hour while stirring on a magnetic stirrer. If undissolved components of the pigment are still visible in the mixture after this period, the solubility of the pigment is below 0.5 g / L. If the pigment-water mixture cannot be assessed visually due to the high intensity of the pigment which may be present in finely dispersed form, the mixture is filtered. If a proportion of undissolved pigments remains on the filter paper, the solubility of the pigment is below 0.5 g / L.

Suitable color pigments can be of inorganic and / or organic origin.

In a further very particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent is applied to keratin material which has been colored by using at least one inorganic and / or organic pigment.

Preferred color pigments are selected from synthetic or natural inorganic pigments. Inorganic color pigments of natural origin can be made from chalk, ocher, umber, green earth, burnt Terra di Siena or graphite, for example. Furthermore, as inorganic color pigments, black pigments such. B. iron oxide black, colored pigments such. B. ultramarine or iron oxide red and fluorescent or phosphorescent pigments can be used.

Colored metal oxides, hydroxides and oxide hydrates, mixed-phase pigments, sulfur-containing silicates, silicates, metal sulfides, complex metal cyanides, metal sulfates, metal chromates and / or molybdates are particularly suitable. Particularly preferred color pigments are black iron oxide (CI 77499), yellow iron oxide (CI 77492), red and brown iron oxide (CI 77491), manganese violet (CI 77742), ultramarines (sodium aluminum sulfosilicates, CI 77007, Pigment Blue 29), chromium oxide hydrate (CI77289 ), Iron blue (Ferric Ferrocyanide, CI77510) and / or carmine (Cochineal).

Color pigments which are likewise particularly preferred according to the invention are colored pearlescent pigments. These are usually based on mica and / or mica and can be coated with one or more metal oxides. Mica is one of the layered silicates. The most important representatives of these silicates are muscovite, phlogopite, paragonite, biotite, lepidolite and margarite. To produce the pearlescent pigments in conjunction with metal oxides, the mica, predominantly muscovite or phlogopite, is coated with a metal oxide. As an alternative to natural mica, synthetic mica coated with one or more metal oxide (s) can also be used as a pearlescent pigment. Particularly preferred pearlescent pigments are based on natural or synthetic mica (mica) and are coated with one or more of the aforementioned metal oxides. The color of the respective pigments can be varied by varying the layer thickness of the metal oxide (s).

In a further very particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent is applied to keratin material which has been colored by using at least one pigment selected from the group of colored metal oxides, metal hydroxides, metal oxide hydrates, silicates, metal sulfides, complex metal cyanides, metal sulfates, bronze pigments and / or colored pigments based on mica or mica coated with at least one metal oxide and / or metal oxychloride.

In a further very particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent is applied to keratin material which has been colored by using at least one pigment selected from the group of mica- or mica-based pigments with or several metal oxides from the group of titanium dioxide (CI 77891), black iron oxide (CI 77499), yellow iron oxide (CI 77492), red and / or brown iron oxide (CI 77491, CI 77499), manganese violet (CI 77742), ultramarine (sodium Aluminum sulfosilicates, CI 77007, Pigment Blue 29), chromium oxide hydrate (CI 77289), chromium oxide (CI 77288) and / or iron blue (Ferric Ferrocyanide, CI 77510) are coated.

Examples of particularly suitable color pigments are commercially available under the trade names Rona®, Colorona®, Xirona®, Dichrona® and Timiron® from Merck, Ariabel® and Unipure® from Sensient, Prestige® from Eckart Cosmetic Colors and Sunshine® available from Sunstar.

Particularly preferred color pigments with the trade name Colorona® are, for example:

Colorona Copper, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES)

Colorona Passion Orange, Merck, Mica, CI 77491 (Iran Oxides), Alumina

Colorona Patina Silver, Merck, MICA, CI 77499 (IRON OXIDES), CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE)

Colorona RY, Merck, CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), MICA, CI 75470 (CARMINE)

Colorona Oriental Beige, Merck, MICA, CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES) Colorona Dark Blue, Merck, MICA, TITANIUM DIOXIDE, FERRIC FERROCYANIDE Colorona Chameleon, Merck, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES), MICA

Colorona Aborigine Amber, Merck, MICA, CI 77499 (IRON OXIDES), CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE) Colorona Blackstar Blue, Merck, CI 77499 (IRON OXIDES), MICA

Colorona Patagonian Purple, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES), CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), CI 77510 (FERRIC FERROCYANIDE)

Colorona Red Brown, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES), CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE) Colorona Russe †, Merck, CI 77491 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), MICA, CI 77891 (IRON OXIDES) Colorona Imperial Red, Merck, MICA, TITANIUM DIOXIDE (CI 77891), D&C RED NO. 30 (CI 73360) Colorona Majestic Green, Merck, CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), MICA, CI 77288 (CHROMIUM OXIDE GREENS)

Colorona Light Blue, Merck, MICA, TITANIUM DIOXIDE (CI 77891), FERRIC FERROCYANIDE (CI 77510)

Colorona Red Gold, Merck, MICA, CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES) Colorona Gold Plus MP 25, Merck, MICA, TITANIUM DIOXIDE (CI 77891), IRON OXIDES (CI 77491)

Colorona Carmine Red, Merck, MICA, TITANIUM DIOXIDE, CARMINE Colorona Blackstar Green, Merck, MICA, CI 77499 (IRON OXIDES)

Colorona Bordeaux, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES)

Colorona Bronze, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES)

Colorona Bronze Fine, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES)

Colorona Fine Gold MP 20, Merck, MICA, CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES)

Colorona Sienna Fine, Merck, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES), MICA Colorona Sienna, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES)

Colorona Precious Gold, Merck, Mica, CI 77891 (Titanium dioxide), Silica, CI 77491 (Iran oxides), Tin oxide

Colorona Sun Gold Sparkle MP 29, Merck, MICA, TITANIUM DIOXIDE, IRON OXIDES, MICA, CI 77891, CI 77491 (EU)

Colorona Mica Black, Merck, CI 77499 (Iran oxides), Mica, CI 77891 (Titanium dioxide)

Colorona Bright Gold, Merck, Mica, CI 77891 (Titanium dioxide), CI 77491 (Iran oxides)

Colorona Blackstar Gold, Merck, MICA, CI 77499 (IRON OXIDES)

Other particularly preferred color pigments with the trade name Xirona® are, for example:

Xirona Golden Sky, Merck, Silica, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), Tin Oxide Xirona Caribbean Blue, Merck, Mica, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), Silica, Tin Oxide Xirona Kiwi Rose, Merck, Silica, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide) , Tin Oxide Xirona Magic Mauve, Merck, Silica, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), Tin Oxide.

In addition, particularly preferred color pigments with the trade name Unipure® are, for example: Unipure Red LC 381 EM, Sensient CI 77491 (Iran Oxides), Silica Unipure Black LC 989 EM, Sensient, CI 77499 (Iran Oxides), Silica Unipure Yellow LC 182 EM, Sensient, CI 77492 (Iran Oxides), Silica

In a further embodiment of the method according to the invention, the keratin material can also have been colored with at least one organic pigment before the decolorizing agent is applied.

The organic pigments according to the invention are correspondingly insoluble, organic dyes or color lakes, for example from the group of nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, anthraquinone, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene -, Diketopyrrolopyorrole, indigo, thioindido, dioxazine, and / or triarylmethane compounds can be selected.

Particularly suitable organic pigments are, for example, carmine, quinacridone, phthalocyanine, sorghum, blue pigments with the color index numbers CI 42090, CI 69800, CI 69825, CI 73000, CI 74100, CI 74160, yellow pigments with the color index numbers CI 11680 , CI 11710, CI 15985, CI 19140, CI 20040, CI 21100, CI 21108, CI 47000, CI 47005, green pigments with the color index numbers CI 61565, CI 61570, CI 74260, orange pigments with the color index numbers CI 11725 , CI 15510, CI 45370, CI 71105, red pigments with the color index numbers CI 12085, CI 12120, CI 12370, CI 12420, CI 12490, CI 14700, CI 15525, CI 15580, CI 15620, CI 15630, CI 15800, CI 15850, CI 15865, CI 15880, CI 17200, CI 26100, CI 45380, CI 45410, CI 58000, CI 73360, CI 73915 and / or CI 75470.

In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent is applied to keratin material which has been colored by using at least one organic pigment selected from the group consisting of carmine, quinacridone, phthalocyanine, sorghum, and blue pigments with the color index numbers CI 42090, CI 69800, CI 69825, CI 73000, CI 74100, CI 74160, yellow pigments with the color index numbers CI 11680, CI 11710, CI 15985, CI 19140, CI 20040, CI 21100, CI 21108 , CI 47000, CI 47005, green pigments with the color index numbers CI 61565, CI 61570, CI 74260, orange pigments with the color index numbers CI 11725, CI 15510, CI 45370, CI 71105, red pigments with the color index numbers CI 12085, CI 12120, CI 12370, CI 12420, CI 12490, CI 14700, CI 15525, CI 15580, CI 15620, CI 15630, CI 15800, CI 15850, CI 15865, CI 15880, CI 17200, CI 26100, CI 45380, CI 45410, CI 58000, CI 73360, CI 73915 and / or CI 75470.

The organic pigment can also be a colored lacquer. In the context of the invention, the term “colored varnish” is understood to mean particles which comprise a layer of absorbed dyes, the unit of particles and dyestuff falling under the above Conditions is insoluble. The particles can be, for example, inorganic substrates, which can be aluminum, silica, calcium borosilicate, calcium aluminum borosilicate or also aluminum.

The alizarin color varnish, for example, can be used as the color varnish.

Because of their excellent light and temperature resistance, coloring with the aforementioned pigments is particularly preferred. It is also preferred if the pigments used have a certain particle size. This particle size leads, on the one hand, to a uniform distribution of the pigments in the polymer film formed and, on the other hand, avoids a rough hair or skin feel after the cosmetic agent has been applied. It is therefore advantageous according to the invention if the at least one pigment has an average particle size D50 of 1.0 to 50 μm, preferably 5.0 to 45 μm, more preferably 10 to 40 μm, in particular 14 to 30 μm. The mean particle size D50 can be determined, for example, using dynamic light scattering (DLS).

Pigments with a specific shape can also have been used to color the keratin material. For example, a pigment based on a lamellar and / or a lenticular substrate platelet can be used. Coloring on the basis of a substrate platelet which comprises a vacuum metallized pigment is also possible.

The substrate platelets of this type have an average thickness of at most 50 nm, preferably less than 30 nm, particularly preferably at most 25 nm, for example at most 20 nm. The average thickness of the substrate platelets is at least 1 nm, preferably at least 2.5 nm, particularly preferably at least 5 nm, for example at least 10 nm. Preferred ranges for the thickness of the substrate platelets are 2.5 to 50 nm, 5 to 50 nm, 10 to 50 nm; 2.5 to 30 nm, 5 to 30 nm, 10 to 30 nm; 2.5 to 25 nm, 5 to 25 nm, 10 to 25 nm, 2.5 to 20 nm, 5 to 20 nm and 10 to 20 nm. Each substrate plate preferably has a thickness that is as uniform as possible.

Due to the small thickness of the substrate platelets, the pigment has a particularly high hiding power.

The substrate platelets are monolithic. In this context, monolithic means consisting of a single closed unit without breaks, layers or inclusions, although structural changes can occur within the substrate platelets. The substrate platelets are preferably constructed homogeneously, that is to say that no concentration gradient occurs within the platelets. In particular, the substrate platelets are not constructed in layers and have no particles or particles distributed therein. The size of the substrate platelet can be matched to the particular application, in particular the desired effect on the keratinic material. As a rule, the substrate platelets have a mean largest diameter of about 2 to 200 μm, in particular about 5 to 100 μm.

In a preferred embodiment, the aspect ratio, expressed by the ratio of the mean size to the average thickness, is at least 80, preferably at least 200, more preferably at least 500, particularly preferably more than 750. The mean size of the uncoated substrate flakes is understood to be the d50 value of the uncoated substrate flakes. Unless otherwise stated, the d50 value was determined using a Sympatec Helos device with Quixel wet dispersion. For sample preparation, the sample to be examined was predispersed in isopropanol for a period of 3 minutes.

The substrate platelets can be constructed from any material that can be brought into platelet form.

They can be of natural origin, but also synthetically produced. Materials from which the substrate platelets can be constructed are, for example, metals and metal alloys, metal oxides, preferably aluminum oxide, inorganic compounds and minerals such as mica and (semi) precious stones, as well as plastics. The substrate platelets are preferably constructed from metal (alloys).

Any metal suitable for metallic luster pigments can be considered as the metal. Such metals include iron and steel, as well as all air and water-resistant (semi) metals such as platinum, zinc, chromium, molybdenum and silicon, and their alloys such as aluminum bronze and brass. Preferred metals are aluminum, copper, silver and gold. Preferred substrate platelets are aluminum platelets and brass platelets, with substrate platelets made of aluminum being particularly preferred.

Lamellar substrate platelets are characterized by an irregularly structured edge and are also referred to as "cornflakes" due to their appearance.

Due to their irregular structure, pigments based on lamellar substrate platelets generate a high proportion of scattered light. In addition, the pigments based on lamellar substrate platelets do not completely cover the existing color of a keratinic material and effects analogous to natural graying can be achieved, for example. Lenticular (= lens-shaped) substrate platelets have an essentially regular round edge and are also referred to as "silver dollars" because of their appearance. Due to their regular structure, pigments based on lenticular substrate platelets predominate in the amount of reflected light.

Vacuum metallized pigments (VMP) can be obtained, for example, by releasing metals, metal alloys or metal oxides from appropriately coated foils. They are distinguished by a particularly small thickness of the substrate platelets in the range from 5 to 50 nm and by a particularly smooth surface with increased reflectivity. Substrate platelets which comprise a pigment metallized in a vacuum are also referred to in this application as VMP substrate platelets. VMP substrate platelets made of aluminum can be obtained, for example, by releasing aluminum from metallized foils.

The substrate platelets made of metal or metal alloy can be passivated, for example by anodizing (oxide layer) or chromating.

Uncoated lamellar, lenticular and / or VPM substrate platelets, in particular those made of metal or metal alloy, reflect the incident light to a high degree and produce a light-dark flop, but no color impression.

A color impression can be generated, for example, due to optical interference effects. Such pigments can be based on at least once coated substrate platelets. These show interference effects due to the superposition of differently refracted and reflected light beams.

Accordingly, preferred pigments are pigments based on a coated lamellar substrate platelet. The substrate platelet preferably has at least one coating B made of a high-index metal oxide with a coating thickness of at least 50 nm. A further coating A is preferably located between the coating B and the surface of the substrate platelet. If necessary, another coating C, which is different from the layer B below, is located on the layer B.

Suitable materials for the coatings A, B and C are all substances that can be applied permanently and in film form to the substrate platelets and, in the case of the layers A and B, have the required optical properties. In general, a coating of part of the surface of the substrate flakes is sufficient to obtain a pigment with a glossy effect. For example, only the upper and / or lower side of the substrate platelets can be used be coated, the side surface (s) being cut out. The entire surface of the optionally passivated substrate platelets, including the side surfaces, is preferably covered by coating B. The substrate platelets are therefore completely encased by coating B. This improves the optical properties of the pigment and increases the mechanical and chemical resistance of the pigments. The foregoing also applies to layer A and preferably also to layer C, if any.

Although several coatings A, B and / or C can be present in each case, the coated substrate platelets preferably each have only one coating A, B and, if present, C.

The coating B is made up of at least one high-index metal oxide. High refractive index materials have a refractive index of at least 1.9, preferably at least 2.0 and particularly preferably at least 2.4. The coating B preferably comprises at least 95% by weight, particularly preferably at least 99% by weight, of high-index metal oxide (s).

The coating B has a thickness of at least 50 nm. The thickness of coating B is preferably not more than 400 nm, particularly preferably at most 300 nm.

High refractive index metal oxides suitable for coating B are preferably selectively light-absorbing (ie colored) metal oxides such as iron (III) oxide (a- and y-Fe 2 O 3, red), cobalt (II) oxide (blue), chromium (III) oxide (g rü n), titanium (111) oxide (blue, is usually a mixture with titanium oxynitrides and titanium nitrides) and vanadium (V) oxide (orange) and mixtures thereof. Colorless, high-index oxides such as titanium dioxide and / or zirconium oxide are also suitable.

Coating B can contain a selectively absorbing dye, preferably 0.001 to 5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.01 to 1% by weight, based in each case on the total amount of coating B. Organic and inorganic dyes that are stable in the have a metal oxide coating installed.

The coating A preferably has at least one low refractive index metal oxide and / or metal oxide hydrate. Coating A preferably comprises at least 95% by weight, particularly preferably at least 99% by weight, of low-refractive-index metal oxide (hydrate). Low refractive index materials have a refractive index of at most 1.8, preferably at most 1.6.

The low refractive index metal oxides which are suitable for the coating A include, for example, silicon (di) oxide, silicon oxide hydrate, aluminum oxide, aluminum oxide hydrate, boron oxide, germanium oxide, manganese oxide, magnesium oxide and mixtures thereof, silicon dioxide being preferred is. The coating A preferably has a thickness of 1 to 100 nm, particularly preferably 5 to 50 nm, particularly preferably 5 to 20 nm.

The distance between the surface of the substrate platelets and the inner surface of coating B is preferably at most 100 nm, particularly preferably at most 50 nm, particularly preferably at most 20 nm. Because the thickness of coating A and thus the distance between the surface of the substrate platelets and Coating B is in the range specified above, it can be ensured that the pigments have a high hiding power.

If the pigment based on a lamellar substrate flake has only one layer A, it is preferred for the pigment to have a lamellar substrate flake made of aluminum and a layer A made of silicon dioxide. If the pigment based on a lamellar substrate flake has a layer A and a layer B, it is preferred for the pigment to have a lamellar substrate flake made of aluminum, a layer A made of silicon dioxide and a layer B made of iron oxide.

According to a preferred embodiment, the pigments have a further coating C made of a metal oxide (hydrate), which is different from the coating B below. Suitable metal oxides are, for example, silicon (di) oxide, silicon oxide hydrate, aluminum oxide, aluminum oxide hydrate, zinc oxide, tin oxide, titanium dioxide, zirconium oxide, iron (III) oxide and chromium (III) oxide. Silica is preferred.

The coating C preferably has a thickness of 10 to 500 nm, particularly preferably 50 to 300 nm. By providing the coating C, for example based on T1O2, better interference can be achieved, with a high hiding power being ensured.

Layers A and C serve in particular as protection against corrosion and also for chemical and physical stabilization. Layers A and C particularly preferably contain silicon dioxide or aluminum oxide, which are applied by the sol-gel process. This method comprises dispersing the uncoated lamellar substrate flakes or the lamellar substrate flakes already coated with layer A and / or layer B in a solution of a metal alkoxide such as tetraethyl orthosilicate or aluminum triisopropoxide (usually in a solution of organic solvent or a mixture of organic solvent and water with at least 50% by weight organic solvent such as a C1 to C4 alcohol), and adding a weak base or acid to hydrolyze the metal alkoxide, whereby a film of the metal oxide is formed on the surface of the (coated) substrate platelets. Layer B can be produced, for example, by hydrolytic decomposition of one or more organic metal compounds and / or by precipitation of one or more dissolved metal salts and, if necessary, subsequent aftertreatment (for example, transferring a hydroxide-containing layer formed into the oxide layers by annealing).

Although each of the coatings A, B and / or C can be built up from a mixture of two or more metal oxides (hydrate), each of the coatings is preferably built up from a metal oxide (hydrate).

The pigments based on coated lamellar or lenticular substrate platelets or the pigments based on coated VMP substrate platelets preferably have a thickness of 70 to 500 nm, particularly preferably 100 to 400 nm, particularly preferably 150 to 320 nm, for example 180 to 290 nm, on. Due to the small thickness of the substrate platelets, the pigment has a particularly high hiding power. The small thickness of the coated substrate platelets is achieved in particular in that the thickness of the uncoated substrate platelets is small, but also in that the thicknesses of the coatings A and, if present, C are set to the smallest possible value. The thickness of coating B determines the color impression of the pigment.

The adhesion and abrasion resistance of pigments based on coated substrate platelets in the keratinous material can be significantly increased by additionally modifying the outermost layer, depending on the structure, layer A, B or C, with organic compounds such as silanes, phosphoric acid esters, titanates, borates or carboxylic acids becomes. The organic compounds are bonded to the surface of the outermost layer A, B or C, preferably containing metal oxide. The outermost layer denotes the layer which is spatially furthest away from the lamellar substrate plate. The organic compounds are preferably functional silane compounds which can bind to the layer A, B or C containing metal oxide. These can be either mono- or bifunctional compounds. Examples of bifunctional organic compounds are methacryloxypropenyltrimethoxysilane, 3- methacryloxypropyltrimethoxysilane, 3- acryloxypropyltrimethoxysilane, 2-

Acryloxyethyltrimethoxysilane, 3-methacryloxy propyltriethoxysilane, 3-acryloxypropyltrimethoxysilane, 2-triethoxysilane Methacryloxyethyl-, 2-acryloxyethyltriethoxysilane, 3-methacryloxypropyltris (methox- yethoxy) silane, 3-methacryloxypropyltris (butoxyethoxy) silane, 3-methacryloxypropyltris (propoxy) silane, 3-methacryloxypropyl tris (butoxy) silane, 3-acryloxypropyltris (methoxyethoxy) silane, 3-acryloxypropyltris (butoxyethoxy) silane, 3-acryloxypropyltris (butoxy) silane, vinyltrimethoxysilane, vinyltriethoxysilane, Vinylethyl- dichlorosilane, vinylmethyldiacetoxysilane, vinylmethyldichlorosilane, vinylmethyldiethoxysilane, Vinyltriacetoxysilane, vinyltrichlorosilane, phenylvinyldiethoxysilane, or phenylallyldichlorosilane. Furthermore, a modification with a monofunctional silane, in particular an alkylsilane or arylsilane, respectively. This has only one functional group which can covalently bind pigments based on coated lamellar substrate platelets to the surface (ie to the outermost metal oxide-containing layer) or, if it is not completely covered, to the metal surface. The hydrocarbon residue of the silane faces away from the pigment. Depending on the type and nature of the hydrocarbon radical of the silane, a different degree of hydrophobicity of the pigment is achieved. Examples of such silanes are hexadecyltrimethoxysilane, propyltrimethoxysilane, etc. Pigments based on silicon dioxide-coated aluminum substrate platelets are surface-modified with a monofunctional silane. Octyltrimethoxysilane, octyltriethoxysilane, hecadecyltrimethoxysilane and hecadecyltriethoxysilane are particularly preferred. The changed surface properties / hydrophobicity can improve adhesion, abrasion resistance and alignment in the application.

Suitable pigments based on a lamellar substrate platelet include, for example, the pigments of the VISIONAIRE series from Eckart.

Pigments based on a lenticular substrate platelet are available, for example, under the name Alegrace® Gorgeous from Schlenk Metallic Pigments GmbH.

Pigments based on a substrate platelet comprising a vacuum metallized pigment are available, for example, under the name Alegrace® Marvelous or Alegrace® Aurous from Schlenk Metallic Pigments GmbH.

Coloring using polymers

When coloring the keratin material, in particular the keratin fibers, at least one film-forming polymer can also be used in addition to the organosilicon compound or compounds, in particular the organic C ₁ -C ₆ alkoxysilanes and the pigments.

It has been found that the colorations obtained by using the combination of organic C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxysilane, pigment and film-forming polymer are particularly resistant and therefore particularly difficult to decolorize. Surprisingly, it has been found that the use of the decolorizing agent according to the invention is also able to decolorize these colorations again with excellent results.

In a further very particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent is applied to keratin material, which by using at least one organic C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxysilane and / or a Condensation product thereof, colored by application of at least one pigment and by application of at least one film-forming polymer.

Polymers are understood to mean macromolecules with a molecular weight of at least 1000 g / mol, preferably of at least 2500 g / mol, particularly preferably of at least 5000 g / mol, which consist of identical, repeating organic units. The polymers of the present invention can be synthetically produced polymers which are produced by polymerizing one type of monomer or by polymerizing different types of monomers which are structurally different from one another. If the polymer is produced by polymerizing one type of monomer, it is called a homo-polymer. If structurally different types of monomers are used in the polymerization, the resulting polymer is referred to as a copolymer.

The maximum molecular weight of the polymer depends on the degree of polymerisation (number of polymerised monomers) and the batch size and is also determined by the polymerisation method. For the purposes of the present invention, it is preferred if the maximum molecular weight of the film-forming, hydrophobic polymer (c) is not more than 10 ⁷ g / mol, preferably not more than 10 ⁶ g / mol and particularly preferably not more than 10 ⁵ g / mol amounts.

In the context of the invention, a film-forming polymer is understood to mean a polymer which is able to form a film on a substrate, for example on a keratinic material or a keratinous fiber. The formation of a film can be detected, for example, by viewing the keratin material treated with the polymer under a microscope.

The film-forming polymers previously used in the dyeing step can be hydrophilic or hydrophobic.

In a further very particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent is applied to keratin material which is obtained by using at least one organic C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxysilane and / or a condensation product thereof, by using at least one pigment and colored by using at least one film-forming, hydrophobic polymer.

A hydrophobic polymer is understood to mean a polymer that has a solubility in water at 25 ° C. (760 mmHg) of less than 1% by weight.

The water solubility of the film-forming, hydrophobic polymer can be determined, for example, in the following way. 1.0 g of the polymer are placed in a beaker. With Water is made up to 100 g. A stir bar is added and the mixture is warmed to 25 ° C on a magnetic stirrer while stirring. It is stirred for 60 minutes. The aqueous mixture is then assessed visually. If the polymer-water mixture cannot be assessed visually due to the high turbidity of the mixture, the mixture is filtered. If a proportion of undissolved polymer remains on the filter paper, the solubility of the polymer is less than 1% by weight.

The polymers of the acrylic acid type, the polyurethanes, the polyesters, the polyamides, the polyureas, the cellulose polymers, the nitro-cellulose polymers, the silicone polymers, the polymers of the acrylamide type and the polyisoprenes can be mentioned here in particular .

Particularly suitable film-forming, hydrophobic polymers are, for example, polymers from the group of copolymers of acrylic acid, copolymers of methacrylic acid, homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic acid esters, homopolymers or copolymers of methacrylic acid esters, homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic acid amides, homopolymers or copolymers of methacrylic acid amides, copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone, copolymers of vinyl alcohol, copolymers of vinyl acetate, homopolymers or copolymers of ethylene, homopolymers or copolymers of propylene, homopolymers or copolymers of styrene, polyurethanes, polyesters and / or the polyamides.

In a further very particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent is applied to keratin material which has been colored by using at least one film-forming, hydrophobic polymer selected from the group of copolymers of acrylic acid, the copolymers of Methacrylic acid, homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic acid esters, homopolymers or copolymers of methacrylic acid esters, homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic acid amides, homopolymers or copolymers of methacrylic acid amides, copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone, copolymers of vinyl alcohol, copolymers of vinyl acetate , homopolymers or copolymers of ethylene, homopolymers or copolymers of propylene, homopolymers or copolymers of styrene, polyurethanes, polyesters and / or polyamides.

The film-forming hydrophobic polymers which are selected from the group of synthetic polymers, the polymers obtainable by free radical polymerization or the natural polymers have proven particularly suitable for achieving the object of the invention.

Further particularly suitable film-forming hydrophobic polymers can be selected from the homopolymers or copolymers of olefins, such as cycloolefins, Butadiene, isoprene or styrene, vinyl ethers, vinyl amides, the esters or amides of

(Meth) acrylic acid with at least one C ₁ -C 20 -alkyl group, an aryl group or a C2-C10-hydroxyalkyl group.

Further film-forming hydrophobic polymers can be selected from the homo- or

Copolymers of isooctyl (meth) acrylate; isononyl (meth) acrylate; 2-ethylhexyl (meth) acrylate; Lauryl (meth) acrylate); isopentyl (meth) acrylate; n-butyl (meth) acrylate); isobutyl (meth) acrylate; Ethyl (meth) acrylate; Methyl (meth) acrylate; tert-butyl (meth) acrylate; Stearyl (meth) acrylate; Hydroxyethyl (meth) acrylate; 2-hydroxypropyl (methacrylate; 3-hydroxypropyl (meth) acrylate and / or mixtures thereof).

Further film-forming hydrophobic polymers can be selected from the homo- or

Copolymers of (meth) acrylamide; N-alkyl- (meth) acrylamides, especially those with C2-C18

Alkyl groups, such as, for example, N-ethyl-acrylamide, N-tert-butyl-acrylamide, N-octyl-acrylamide; N-di (C1-C4) alkyl (meth) acrylamide.

Other preferred anionic copolymers are, for example, copolymers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or their C ₁ -C ₆ -alkyl esters, as sold under the INCI declaration Acrylates Copolymers. A suitable commercial product is, for example Aculyn ^® 33 from Rohm & Haas. However, copolymers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or their C ₁ -C ₆ -alkyl esters and the esters of an ethylenically unsaturated acid and an alkoxylated fatty alcohol are also preferred. Suitable ethylenically unsaturated acids are, in particular, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and itaconic acid; suitable alkoxylated fatty alcohols are, in particular, steareth-20 or ceteth-20.

Particularly preferred polymers on the market are, for example, Aculyn® 22 (Acrylates / Steareth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer), Aculyn® 28 (Acrylates / Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer), Structure 2001® (Acryla-tes / Steareth-20 Itaconate Copolymer), Structure 3001® (Acrylates / Ceteth-20 Itaconate Copolymer), Structure Plus® (Acrylates / Aminoacrylates C10-30 Alkyl PEG-20 Itaconate Copolymer), Carbopol® 1342, 1382, Ultrez 20, Ultrez 21 (Acrylates / C 10 -30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer), Synthalen W 2000® (Acrylates / Palmeth-25 Acrylate Copolymer) or the Soltex OPT (Acrylates / C 12-22 Alkyl methacrylate Copolymer) sold by Rohme and Haas.

Suitable polymers based on vinyl monomers can be mentioned, for example homo- and copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone, of vinyl caprolactam, vinyl (C1-C ₆ -) alkyl pyrrole, the vinyl oxazole, vinyl thiazole- , vinyl pyrimidine, vinyl imidazole.

The copolymers octylacrylamide / acrylates / butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, such as those for example under the trade name AMPHOMER® ou, are also very particularly suitable LOVOCRYL® 47 is sold commercially by NATIONAL STARCH, or the copolymers of acrylates / octylacrylamides which are sold under the trade names DERMACRYL® LT and DERMACRYL® 79 by NATIONAL STARCH.

Examples of suitable polymers based on olefins are the homo- and copolymers of ethylene, propylene, butene, isoprene and butadiene.

In a further embodiment, the block copolymers which comprise at least one block made of styrene or the derivatives of styrene can be used as film-forming hydrophobic polymers. These block copolymers can be copolymers which, in addition to a styrene block, contain one or more other blocks, such as, for example, styrene / ethylene, styrene / ethylene / butylene, styrene / butylene, styrene / isoprene, styrene / butadiene. Corresponding polymers are sold commercially by BASF under the trade name “Luvitol HSB”.

In a further embodiment, the film-forming polymers previously used in the dyeing step can also be hydrophilic.

In a further very particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent is applied to keratin material which is obtained by using at least one organic C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxysilane and / or a condensation product thereof, by using at least one pigment and colored by using at least one film-forming hydrophilic polymer.

A hydrophilic polymer is understood to mean a polymer that has a solubility in water at 25 ° C. (760 mmHg) of more than 1% by weight, preferably more than 2% by weight.

The water solubility of the film-forming hydrophilic polymer can be determined, for example, in the following way. 1.0 g of the polymer are placed in a beaker. Make up to 100 g with water. A stir bar is added and the mixture is warmed to 25 ° C on a magnetic stirrer while stirring. It is stirred for 60 minutes. The aqueous mixture is then assessed visually. A completely dissolved polymer appears to be homogeneous under a markoscopy. If the polymer-water mixture cannot be assessed visually due to the high turbidity of the mixture, the mixture is filtered. If no undissolved polymer remains on the filter paper, the solubility of the polymer is more than 1% by weight.

Nonionic, anionic and cationic polymers can be used as film-forming, hydrophilic polymers. Suitable film-forming, hydrophilic polymers can, for example, from the group of polyvinyl pyrrolidone (co) polymers, polyvinyl alcohol (co) polymers, vinyl acetate (co) polymers, carboxyvinyl (co) polymers, acrylic acid (co) Polymers, methacrylic acid (co) polymers, natural gums, polysaccharides and / or acrylamide (co) polymers can be selected.

Furthermore, it is very particularly preferred to use polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) and / or a vinylpyrrolidone-containing copolymer as the film-forming hydrophilic polymer.

In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent is applied to keratin material which has been colored by using at least one film-forming, hydrophilic polymer selected from the group consisting of polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) and the copolymers of Polyvinyl pyrrolidone.

It is also preferred if the agent according to the invention contains polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) as the film-forming, hydrophilic polymer.

Particularly suitable polyvinylpyrrolidones are available, for example, under the name Luviskol® K from BASF SE, in particular LuviskofeK 90 or LuviskofeK 85 from BASF SE.

The polymer PVP K30, which is sold by Ashland (ISP, POI Chemical), can also be used as another polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) that is explicitly very particularly suitable. PVP K 30 is a polyvinylpyrrolidone which is very soluble in cold water and has the CAS number 9003-39-8. The molecular weight of PVP K 30 is approx. 40,000 g / mol.

Other particularly suitable polyvinylpyrrolidones are the substances known under the trade names LUVITEC K 17, LUVITEC K 30, LUVITEC K 60, LUVITEC K 80, LUVITEC K 85, LUVITEC K 90 and LUVITEC K 115 and available from BASF.

The use of film-forming hydrophilic polymers from the group of copolymers of polyvinylpyrrolidone has also led to particularly good results.

Especially suitable film-forming, hydrophilic polymers Vinylester vinylpyrrolidone copolymers can be mentioned, as they are sold for example under the trademark Luviskol ^® (BASF) in this context. Luviskol ^® VA 64 and Luviskol ^® VA 73, each vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, are particularly preferred nonionic polymers.

Of the vinylpyrrolidone-containing copolymers, a styrene / VP copolymer and / or a vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymer and / or a VP / DMAPA acrylate are very particularly preferred Copolymer and / or a VP / Vinyl Caprolactam / DMAPA Acrylates Copolymer used in the cosmetic compositions.

Vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymers are sold under the name Luviskol® VA by BASF SE. A VP / vinyl caprolactam / DMAPA Acrylates copolymer is sold by Ashland Inc. under the trade name Aquaflex® SF-40. A VP / DMAPA Acrylates copolymer is sold, for example, under the name Styleze CC-10 by Ashland and is a highly preferred vinylpyrrolidone-containing copolymer.

The copolymers obtained by reacting N-vinylpyrrolidone with at least one further monomer from the group consisting of V-vinylformamide, vinyl acetate, ethylene, propylene, acrylamide, vinylcaprolactam, vinylcaprolactone and / or vinyl alcohol can also be mentioned as further suitable copolymers of polyvinylpyrrolidone .

In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent is applied to keratin material which has been colored by using at least one film-forming, hydrophilic polymer selected from the group consisting of polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate Copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / styrene copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / ethylene copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / propylene copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / vinylcaprolactam copolymers,

Vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl formamide copolymers and / or vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl alcohol copolymers.

Another suitable copolymer of vinyl pyrrolidone is the polymer known under the INCI name maltodextrin / VP copolymer.

Furthermore, intensely colored keratin material, in particular hair, could be decolorized again with very good results if a nonionic, film-forming, hydrophilic polymer was used as the film-forming, hydrophilic polymer.

In a first embodiment, it can be preferred if the keratin material was colored in the previous coloring step with at least one nonionic, film-forming, hydrophilic polymer.

According to the invention, a nonionic polymer is understood to mean a polymer which in a protic solvent - such as, for example, water - does not carry structural units with permanently cationic or anionic groups under standard conditions, which have to be compensated by counterions while maintaining electrical neutrality. Cationic groups include, for example, quaternized ammonium groups, but not protonated amines. Anionic groups include, for example, carboxyl and sulfonic acid groups. The agents are very particularly preferred which contain, as the nonionic, film-forming, hydrophilic polymer, at least one polymer selected from the group consisting of

- polyvinylpyrrolidone,

- Copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl esters of carboxylic acids with 2 to 18 carbon atoms, in particular of N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate,

- copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone and N-vinylimidazole and methacrylamide,

- copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone and N-vinylimidazole and acrylamide,

- Copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone with N, N-Di (C1 to C4) -alkylamino- (C2 to C4) -alkylacrylamide.

If copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate are used, it is again preferred if the molar ratio of the structural units contained in the monomer N-vinylpyrrolidone to the structural units of the polymer contained in the monomer vinyl acetate is in the range from 20:80 to 80:20, in particular from 30 to 70 to 60 to 40. Suitable copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone and vinyl acetate are available, for example, under the trademarks Luviskol® VA 37, Luviskol® VA 55, Luviskol® VA 64 and Luviskol® VA 73 from BASF SE.

Another particularly preferred polymer is selected from the polymers with the INCI name VP / Methacrylamide / Vinyl Imidazole Copolymer, which are available, for example, under the trade name Luviset Clear from BASF SE.

Another very particularly preferred nonionic, film-forming, hydrophilic polymer is a copolymer of N-vinylpyrrolidone and N, N-dimethylaminiopropyl methacrylamide, which, for example, with the INCI name VP / DMAPA Acrylates Copolymer z. B. is sold under the trade name Styleze®CC 10 by the company ISP.

A cationic polymer according to the invention is the copolymer of N-vinylpyrrolidone, N-vinylcaprolactam, N- (3-dimethylaminopropyl) methacrylamide and 3- (methacryloylamino) propyl-lauryl-dimethylammonium chloride (INCI name: Polyquaternium-69), which, for example, under the trade name AquaStyle ^® 300 (28-32% by weight of active substance in an ethanol-water mixture, molecular weight 350,000) is sold by ISP.

Further suitable film-forming, hydrophilic polymers are, for example

Vinylpyrrolidone-vinylimidazolium methochloride copolymers, as offered under the names Luviquat ^® FC 370, FC 550 and the INCI name Polyquaternium-16 as well as FC 905 and HM 552, Vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl caprolactam-acrylate terpolymers, such as those offered by Acrylsäureestern and acrylamides as the third monomer commercially, for example under the name Aqua Flex ^® SF 40th

Polyquaternium-11 is the reaction product of diethyl sulfate with a copolymer of vinyl pyrrolidone and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate. Suitable commercial products are available, for example, under the names Dehyquart® CC 11 and Luviquat® PQ 11 PN from BASF SE or Gafquat 440, Gafquat 734, Gafquat 755 or Gafquat 755N from Ashland Inc.

Polyquaternium-46 is the reaction product of vinyl caprolactam and vinyl pyrrolidone with methyl vinyl imidazolium methosulfate and is available, for example, under the name Luviquat® Hold from BASF SE. Polyquaternium-46 is preferably used in an amount of 1 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. It is very particularly preferred that Polyquaternium-46 is used in combination with a cationic guar compound. It is even most preferred that Polyquaternium-46 is used in combination with a cationic guar compound and Polyquaternium-11.

Acrylic acid polymers, for example, which can be present in uncrosslinked or crosslinked form, can be used as suitable anionic film-forming, hydrophilic polymers. Corresponding products are sold commercially, for example, under the trade names Carbopol 980, 981, 954, 2984 and 5984 by Lubrizol or also under the names Synthalen M and Synthalen K by 3V Sigma (The Sun Chemicals, Inter Harz).

Examples of suitable film-forming, hydrophilic polymers from the group of natural gums are xanthan gum, gellan gum, carob gum.

Examples of suitable film-forming, hydrophilic polymers from the group of the polysaccharides are hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, ethyl cellulose and carboxymethyl cellulose.

Suitable film-forming, hydrophilic polymers from the group of acrylamides are, for example, polymers which are produced starting from monomers of (meth) acrylamido-C1-C4-alkyl-sulfonic acid or the salts thereof. Corresponding polymers can be selected from the polymers of polyacrylamidomethanesulfonic acid, polyacrylamidoethanesulfonic acid, polyacrylamidopropanesulfonic acid, poly2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, poly-2-methylacrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and / or poly-2-methylacrylamido-n-butanesulfonic acid.

Preferred polymers of the poly (meth) arylamido-C1-C4-alkyl-sulfonic acids are crosslinked and at least 90% neutralized. These polymers can be crosslinked or else uncrosslinked. Crosslinked and completely or partially neutralized polymers of the poly-2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid type are known under the INCI names "Ammonium Polyacrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonate" or "Ammonium Polyacryldimethyltauramide".

Another preferred polymer of this type is the crosslinked poly-2-acrylamido-2methyl-propanesulphonic acid polymer sold by Clamant under the trade name Hostacerin AMPS, which is partially neutralized with ammonia.

In a further very particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent is applied to keratin material which is obtained by using at least one organic C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxysilane and / or a condensation product thereof, by using at least one pigment and colored by using at least one film-forming anionic polymer.

In this context, the best results could be obtained when the decolorizing agent is applied to keratin material which has been prepared by using at least one organic C ₁ -C ₆ alkoxysilane and / or a condensation product thereof, by applying at least one pigment and by applying at least one film-forming, anionic polymer was colored, wherein the film-forming, anionic polymer comprises at least one structural unit of the formula (P1) and at least one structural unit of the formula (P-II)

in which

M stands for a hydrogen atom or for ammonium (NH4), sodium, potassium, ½ magnesium or ½ calcium.

When M stands for a hydrogen atom, the structural unit of the formula (P-1) is based on an acrylic acid unit.

When M stands for an ammonium counterion, the structural unit of the formula (P-1) is based on the ammonium salt of acrylic acid.

When M stands for a sodium counterion, the structural unit of the formula (P-1) is based on the sodium salt of acrylic acid.

If M stands for a potassium counterion, the structural unit of the formula (P1) is based on the potassium salt of acrylic acid. If M stands for half an equivalent of a magnesium counterion, the structural unit of the formula (PI) is based on the magnesium salt of acrylic acid.

When M stands for half an equivalent of a calcium counterion, the structural unit of the formula (P-1) is based on the calcium salt of acrylic acid.

Application of the decolorizer

Within the method according to the invention, the decolorizing agent is applied to the colored keratin material and rinsed off again after an exposure time.

Since the decolorizing agent is applied to the dyed hair, the decolorizing agent must be applied to the keratin material after the previously described coloring agent has been applied.

In other words, the decolorizing agent is applied to the keratin material after the coloring agent has been rinsed out and the keratin material has preferably been dried for the precise determination of the color result.

The exact point in time at which the decolorizing agent is used is determined by the user's wish to remove the unwanted or no longer required color. For example, the decolorizing agent can be applied to the colored keratin material 12 to 24 hours after application of the coloring agent. In a further embodiment, the user can wear the colored keratin materials, in particular the hair, but also for a period of several days to weeks until he decides to change the color again or would like to have his original hair color back.

The decolorizing agent is characterized by its content of at least one solvent (a) and at least one cationic surfactant (b).

Solvent (a)

The decolorizing agent contains at least one solvent (a) as the first ingredient essential to the invention.

For the purposes of the invention, a solvent is understood to mean an organic substance which is liquid at 25 ° C. and can dissolve other substances by physical means.

Even if water, as an inorganic substance, is a solvent that is particularly widespread, solvents in the context of the invention are primarily understood to mean organic liquids. In other words, a first object of the present invention is a method for decolorizing keratin material which has been colored by using at least one organosilicon compound and at least one pigment, containing a decolorizing agent

(a) at least one organic solvent and

(b) at least one fluorine compound is applied to the colored keratin material and is rinsed off again after an exposure time.

In principle, different solvents can be used in the decolorizing agent, but the selection of very specific solvents has proven to be particularly advantageous with regard to achieving the best possible decolorizing effect.

Particularly suitable solvents are, for example, representatives from the group of benzyl alcohol, ethanol, phenoxyethanol, 2-phenylethanol, 1-pentanol, glycerol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,2-ethanediol, isopropanol, dipropylene glycol, N-octylpyrrolidone , Methoxybutanol, ethyl diglycol, polyethylene glycol, 1,3-butanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, propylene carbonate and N, N-dimethyl-9-decenamide can be used.

Benzyl alcohol is alternatively known as phenylmethanol and has the CAS number 100-51-6.

Ethanol has the Cas number 64-17-5.

Phenoxyethanol has the Cas number 122-99-6.

2-Phenylethanol is alternatively referred to as 2-phenylethyl alcohol and has the CAS number 60-12-8.

Alternative names for 1-pentanol are pentan-1-ol, n-pentanol or amyl alcohol. 1-Pentanol has the CAS number 71-41-0.

Alternatively, glycerine is also known as 1,2,3-propanetriol and has the CAS number 56-81-5.

1,2-Propylene glycol is alternatively referred to as 1,2-propanediol and has the CAS numbers 57-55-6 [(RS) -1, 2-dihydroxypropane], 4254-14-2 [(R) -1 , 2-dihydroxypropane] and 4254-15- 3 [(S) -1, 2-dihydroxypropane]

Alternatively, ethylene glycol is also known as 1,2-ethanediol and has the CAS number 107-21-1.

Isopropanol is also known as 2-propanol and has the CAS number 67-63-0.

The dipropylene glycols (or oxydipropanols) form a group of substances that is derived from the glycol ether. The technical product of the same name (in the singular) is a mixture of three structural isomers. A dipropylene glycol according to the invention includes 2,2'-oxydi-1-propanol (CAS number 108-61-2), 1, 1'-oxydi-2-propanol (CAS number 110-98-5) and 2- (2-

Hydroxypropoxy) -1-propanol (CAS number 106-62-7) vestanden. The use of one of these dipropylene glycols in the decolorizing agent is also covered by the present invention, as is the use of a mixture of the second or all three of the structural isomers.

N-Octylpyrrolidone is alternatively also called N-Octyl-2-pyrrolidone or Caprilyl-pyrrolidone and has the CAS number 2687-94-7. This solvent can be obtained commercially, for example, under the trade name Surfadone LP 100 from Ashland (formerly ISP Global).

Methoxybutanol can alternatively be referred to as 3-methoxy-1-butanol and has the CAS number 2517-43-3. The solvent can be purchased for example as methoxybutanol from Biesterfeld.

The IUPAC name for ethyl diglycol is 2- (2-ethoxyethoxy) -ethanol, ethyl diglycol has the CAS number 111-90-0.

For the purposes of the present invention, polyethylene glycols are polymers of the general empirical formula C2nH4n ₊₂ 0 _{n + i that are} liquid at room temperature (25 ° C.). The repeating unit of the linear polymer is (-CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-), with a molar mass of about 44 g-mol ¹ . Chemically it is a polyether. Particularly suitable polyethylene glycols are those with an average molecular weight between 200 g / mol and 400 g / mol, which are non-volatile liquids at room temperature.

1,3-Butanediol is alternatively referred to as butane-1,3-diol or 1,3-butylene glycol and has the CAS numbers 107-88-0 (racemate), 6290-03-5 [(fi) -1, 3-butanediol] and 24621-61-2 [(S) - (+) - 1,3-butanediol] All stereoisomers of 1,3-butanediol are encompassed by the invention.

An alternative name for 1,6-hexanediol is 1,6-dihydroxyhexane. 1, 6-hexanediol has the CAS number 629-11-8.

Propylene carbonate is alternatively also referred to as 4-methyl-1,3-dioxolan-2-one or as propylene glycol carbonate or as carbonic acid propylene glycol ester and has the CAS numbers 108-32-7 [(RS) -4-methyl-1, 3 -dioxolan-2-one], 51260-39-0 [(S) -4-methyl-1, 3-dioxolan-2-one] and 16606-55-6 [(R) -4-methyl-1, 3 -dioxolan-2-one]. All stereoisomers of propylene carbonate are encompassed by the invention.

N, N-Dimethyl-9-decenamid has the CAS number 1356964-77-6. In the context of a further preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent comprises at least one solvent (a) from the group

Benzyl alcohol, ethanol, phenoxyethanol, 2-phenylethanol, 1-pentanol, glycerine, 1,2-propylene glycol,

1, 2-ethanediol, isopropanol, dipropylene glycol, N-octylpyrrolidone, methoxybutanol, ethyl diglycol, polyethylene glycol, 1,3-butanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, propylene carbonate and N, N-dimethyl-9-decenamide.

In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent has at least one solvent (a) from the group consisting of benzyl alcohol, ethanol, phenoxyethanol, 2-phenylethanol, 1-pentanol, glycerol,

Contains 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,2-ethanediol, isopropanol, dipropylene glycol, N-octylpyrrolidone, methoxybutanol, ethyl diglycol, 1,3-butanediol, 1,6-hexanediol and propylene carbonate.

Within the group of the aforementioned solvents (a), the very best results could be obtained when using benzyl alcohol as the solvent.

Within the scope of a further embodiment, a method for decolorizing keratin material which has been colored by using at least one organosilicon compound and at least one pigment, containing a decolorizing agent, is explicitly very particularly preferred

(a) benzyl alcohol and

(b) at least one cationic surfactant is applied to the colored keratin material and is rinsed off again after an exposure time.

It has been found to be advantageous to use the aforementioned solvents (a) in certain quantity ranges in the decolorizing agent. A particularly complete color removal could be observed when the decolorizing agent - based on its total weight - has one or more solvents (a) in a total amount of 3 to 95% by weight, preferably 5 to 75% by weight, more preferably 6 to 55% by weight, even more preferably from 7 to 35% by weight and very particularly preferably from 8 to 20% by weight.

In the context of a further particularly preferred embodiment, a method is characterized in that the decolorizing agent - based on the total weight of the decolorizing agent - contains one or more solvents (a) in a total amount of 3 to 95% by weight, preferably 5 to 75% by weight. %, more preferably from 6 to 55% by weight, even more preferably from 7 to 35% by weight and very particularly preferably from 8 to 20% by weight.

Benzyl alcohol, which is the solvent (a) with the very best decolorizing effect, is also preferably used in certain quantity ranges in the decolorizing agent. Particularly good ones Results were obtained when the decolorizing agent according to the invention - based on its total weight - 3 to 95% by weight, preferably from 5 to 75% by weight, more preferably from 6 to 55% by weight, even more preferably from 7 to 35% Contains wt .-% and very particularly preferably from 8 to 20 wt .-% benzyl alcohol.

In the context of a further particularly preferred embodiment, a method is characterized in that the decolorizing agent - based on the total weight of the decolorizing agent - 3 to 95% by weight, preferably from 5 to 75% by weight, more preferably from 6 to 55% by weight .-%, even more preferably from 7 to 35% by weight and very particularly preferably from 8 to 20% by weight of benzyl alcohol.

Cationic surfactants (bl

The decolorizing agent used in the process according to the invention contains at least one cationic surfactant (b) as a second component which is essential to the invention.

Cationic surfactants are understood to mean surfactants, that is to say surface-active compounds, each with one or more positive charges. Cationic surfactants only contain positive charges. These surfactants are usually composed of a hydrophobic part and a hydrophilic head group, the hydrophobic part usually consisting of a hydrocarbon structure (e.g. consisting of one or two linear or branched alkyl chains), and the positive charge (s) are located in the hydrophilic head group. Cationic surfactants adsorb at interfaces and aggregate in aqueous solution above the critical micelle concentration to form positively charged micelles.

Examples of cationic surfactants are

Quaternary ammonium compounds which can carry one or two alkyl chains with a chain length of 8 to 28 carbon atoms as hydrophobic radicals

Quaternary phosphonium salts, substituted by one or more alkyl chains with a chain length of 8 to 28 carbon atoms or tertiary sulfonium salts.

Furthermore, the cationic charge can also be part of a heterocyclic ring (e.g. an imidazolium ring or a pyridinium ring) in the form of an onium structure.

In addition to the functional unit that carries the cationic charge, the cationic surfactant can also contain other uncharged functional groups; this is the case, for example, with esterquats.

Within the group of cationic surfactants, the cationic ammonium compounds of the formula (Tl) have proven to be particularly suitable due to their particularly good effectiveness in decolorizing agents,

in which

RT 1, RT2 independently of one another represent a C ₁ -C ₆ -alkyl group, a C ₂ -C ₆ -alkenyl group or a hydroxy-C ₂ -C ₆ -alkyl group,

RT3 for a hydroxy-C ₂ -C ₆ -alkyl group, a C ₁ -C ₇ alkyl group, a C ₈ -C ₃₀ -

Alkyl group, or a C ₂ -C ₆ alkenyl group,

RT4 represents a C ₈ -C ₃₀ -alkyl group and

XT stands for a physiologically compatible anion. In a further preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is therefore characterized in that the decolorizing agent contains at least one cationic surfactant, which is preferably selected from among cationic surfactants of the general formula (T-1), where

RT1, RT2 independently of one another represent a C ₁ -C ₆ -alkyl group, a C ₂ -C ₆ -alkenyl group or a hydroxy-C ₂ -C ₆ -alkyl group,

Alkyl group or a C ₂ -C ₆ alkenyl group,

RT4 represents a C ₈ -C ₃₀ -alkyl group and

XT- stands for a physiologically compatible anion.

RT1 and RT2 are preferably, independently of one another, a C ₁ -C ₆ -alkyl group. It is particularly preferred if RT1 and RT2 independently of one another represent a methyl group, an ethyl group or an n-propyl group. In a very particularly preferred embodiment, RT1 and RT2 both stand for a methyl group or both for an ethyl group. RT4 and optionally RT3 stand for a C ₈ -C ₃₀ -alkyl group. These alkyl groups can be branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated. If the C ₈ -C ₃₀ -alkyl group is unsaturated, it can be mono- or polyunsaturated, ie it can have one or more double bonds.

RT3 is preferably a hydroxy-C ₂ -C ₆ -alkyl group. RT3 very particularly preferably represents a 2-hydroxyethyl group.

If RT4 stands for a linear, saturated C ₁₆ -C ₂₂ -alkyl group, this has a particularly advantageous effect on the decolorizing performance of the decolorizing agent. RT4 therefore preferably stands for a linear, saturated C ₁₆ -C ₂₂ -alkyl group. It is very particularly preferred if RT4 is a linear, saturated C16-C18-alkyl group.

In a further very particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is therefore characterized in that the decolorizing agent contains at least one cationic surfactant of the general formula (T-1), where

RT1. RT2 independently of one another for a C ₁ -C ₆ -alkyl group, preferably for a

Methyl group or an ethyl group,

RT3 represents a hydroxy-C ₂ -C ₆ -alkyl group, preferably a 2-hydroxyethyl group,

RT4 stands for a C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ -alkyl group, preferably a C12-C22-alkyl group, more preferably a C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ -alkyl group and very particularly preferably a C16-alkyl group or a C ₁₈ -alkyl group, and XT for a physiologically compatible anion from the group

Dihydrogen phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, phosphate, chloride, bromide, fluoride, acetate, lactate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, p-toluenesulfonate, citrate, tartrate, maleate or fumarate.

In a further very particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent contains at least one cationic surfactant of the general formula (T-1), where RT1, RT2 both represent a methyl group,

RT3 stands for a 2-hydroxyethyl group,

RT4 stands for a linear, saturated C16-C18-alkyl group.

Particularly preferred cationic surfactants of the formula (Tl) are, for example, physiologically compatible salts of hexadecyl (2-hydroxyethyl) dimethylammonium. Particularly preferred cationic surfactants of the formula (Tl) are, for example, physiologically compatible salts of hexadecyl (2-hydroxyethyl) dimethylammonium.

For example, the raw material hexadecyl (2-hydroxyethyl) dimethylammonium dihydrogen phosphate (CAS number 85563-48-0) is sold commercially by BASF under the trade name Luviquat Mono CP.

The salts of N, N, N-trimethyl-1-hexadecanamine, in particular N, N, N-trimethyl-1-hexadecanamine chloride, may also be mentioned as further preferred cationic surfactants of the formula (T-1). A corresponding salt is sold, for example, under the trade name Dehyquart A-CA. Salts of trimethylstearylammonium, in particular trimethylstearylammonium chloride, which is also commercially available under the trade name Genamin STAC, are also preferred.

Further particularly preferred cationic surfactants of the formula (I) are salts of trimethyl-1-eicosanaminium, especially trimethyl-1-eicosanaminium chloride, and salts of trimethyl-1-docosanaminium, especially trimethyl-1-docosanaminium chloride. A mixture of both compounds is available from Clariant under the trade name Genamin KDMP.

Further suitable cationic surfactants (b) can also be selected from the group of the cationic imidazolium compounds. Within the group of the cationic imidazolium compounds, compounds of the formula (T-II) have also been found to be particularly advantageous with regard to use in a decolorizing process.

In a further embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent contains at least one cationic surfactant of the formula (T-II),

(T-II) wherein

RT5 represents a C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl group

RT6, RT7 independently of one another stand for a C7-C ₂₇ -alkyl group and XT- stands for a physiologically compatible anion.

RT6 and RT7 each independently represent a C7-C ₂₇ -alkyl group. These alkyl groups can be branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated. When the C7-C27 Alkyl group is unsaturated, it can be one or more unsaturated, ie have one or more double bonds.

RT5 stands for a C ₁ -C ₆ -alkyl group, very particularly preferably RT5 stands for a methyl group or an ethyl group.

The decolorizing agent according to the invention gave good results in particular when it contained a cationic surfactant of the formula (T-II), in which RT5 stands for a methyl group,

RT6, RT7 independently of one another stand for a C8-C ₂₇ -alkyl group and X- stands for a physiologically acceptable anion.

Particularly preferred compounds of the formula (T-II) are known under the INCI name Quaternium-87, which are also sold under the trade names Varisoft W 575 PB or Revoquat PG 75.

In addition, a decolorizing agent having high performance in terms of color proofing could be obtained when at least one compound from the esterquat group was used as the cationic surfactant. The name esterquats is a collective name for cationic surface-active compounds with two hydrophobic groups that are linked via ester bonds with a quaternized di- or triethanolamine or an analogous compound. Very particularly suitable ester quats are the compounds of the formula (T-III),

(T-III), wherein

RT8, RT9 independently of one another represent a C ₁ -C ₆ -alkyl group or a C ₂ -C ₆ -hydroxyalkyl group,

RT10, RT11 independently of one another stand for a C7-C ₂₇ -alkyl group and ct- stands for a physiologically acceptable anion. In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent contains at least one cationic surfactant of the formula (T-III),

(T-III), wherein

RT10, RT11 independently of one another stand for a C7-C ₂₇ -alkyl group and X stands for a physiologically acceptable anion.

The substituents of the compound of the formula (Tl) to (T-III) are explained by way of example below: Examples of a C ₁ -C ₆ -alkyl group are the groups methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, s-butyl and t -Butyl, n-pentyl and n-hexyl. Propyl, ethyl and methyl are preferred alkyl radicals. Examples of a C ₂ -C ₆ -alkenyl group are vinyl, allyl, but-2-enyl, but-3-enyl and isobutenyl, preferred C ₂ -C ₆ -alkenyl radicals are vinyl and allyl. Preferred examples of a hydroxy-C ₁ -C ₆ -alkyl group are a hydroxymethyl, a 2-hydroxyethyl, a 2-hydroxypropyl, a 3-hydroxypropyl, a 4-hydroxybutyl group, a 5-hydroxypentyl and a 6 -Hydroxyhexyl group; a 2-hydroxyethyl group is particularly preferred.

X in the formulas (T-1) to (T-III) each stands for a physiologically compatible anion. Suitable physiologically compatible anions are phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate, halide, hydrogen sulfate, sulfate, benzenesulfonate, p-toluenesulfonate, acetate, citrate, lactate, tartrate, methyl sulfate (H3COSO3), methyl sulfonate or trifluoromethanesulfonate. A- is particularly preferably chloride, bromide or methyl sulfate (H3COSO3).

By choosing the optimized amounts of one or more cationic surfactants (b) used in the decolorizing agent according to the invention, its application properties can be further improved. The decolorizing agent preferably further contains - based on its total weight - one or more cationic surfactants (b) in a total amount of 0.1 to 20.0% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 12.0% by weight preferably from 1.0 to 6.0% by weight and very particularly preferably from 1.2 to 3.5% by weight. In a further preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is therefore characterized in that the decolorizing agent - based on the total weight of the decolorizing agent - contains one or more cationic surfactants (b) in a total amount of 0.1 to 20.0% by weight, preferably from 0 .5 to 12.0% by weight, more preferably from 1.0 to 6.0% by weight and very particularly preferably from 1.2 to 3.5% by weight.

Alkalis in the decolorizing agent

To further improve the decolorizing performance, the decolorizing agents used in the process according to the invention can optionally also contain one or more alkalizing agents.

Suitable alkalizing agents can be selected from the group consisting of the C ₁ -C ₆ -alkanolamines, the basic amino acids, ammonia, the alkali metal metasilicates, the alkaline earth metal metasilicates, the alkali metal silicates, the alkaline earth metal silicates, the alkali metal hydroxides, the alkali metal hydroxides, the alkaline earth metals the alkali hydrogen carbonates, the alkali metal phosphates and that of the alkaline earth metal phosphates.

Alkanolamines can be selected from primary amines with a C ₂ -C ₆ -alkyl parent structure which carries at least one hydroxyl group. Preferred alkanolamines are selected from the group which is formed from 2-aminoethan-1-ol (monoethanolamine), triethanolamine (alternatively also referred to as tris (2-hydroxyethyl) amine), 3-aminopropan-1-ol, 4-aminobutan 1-ol, 5-aminopentan-1-ol, 1-aminopropan-2-ol, 1-aminobutan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-3-ol, 1- aminopentan 4-ol, 3-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, 1-amino-2-methylpropan-2-ol, 3-aminopropane-1, 2-diol, 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1, 3- diol.

An amino acid in the context of the invention is an organic compound which in its structure contains at least one amino group which can be protonated and at least one —COOH or one —SOsH group. Preferred amino acids are aminocarboxylic acids, in particular α- (alpha) -amino carboxylic acids and w-aminocarboxylic acids, α-aminocarboxylic acids being particularly preferred.

According to the invention, basic amino acids are to be understood as meaning those amino acids which have an isoelectric point p1 of greater than 7.0.

Basic α-aminocarboxylic acids contain at least one asymmetric carbon atom. In the context of the present invention, both possible enantiomers can be used equally as specific compounds or mixtures thereof, in particular as racemates. However, it is particularly advantageous to use the naturally preferred isomer form, usually in the L configuration. The basic amino acids are preferably selected from the group that is formed from arginine, lysine, ornithine and histidine, particularly preferably from arginine and lysine. In a further particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is therefore characterized in that the alkalizing agent is a basic amino acid from the group arginine, lysine, ornithine and / or histidine.

Ammonia can be used in the decolorizing agent, for example, in the form of a 10 to 40% strength aqueous solution.

Sodium metasilicate and potassium metasilicate, for example, can be mentioned as suitable alkali metal metasilicate. Magnesium metasilicate and calcium metasilicate can be mentioned as suitable alkaline earth metal metasilicates.

Sodium silicate and potassium silicate, for example, can be mentioned as suitable alkali metal silicates. Magnesium silicate and calcium silicate, for example, can be mentioned as suitable alkaline earth metal metasilicates.

Further inorganic alkalizing agents from the group of alkali metal hydroxides and alkaline earth metal hydroxides which can be used according to the invention are, for example, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, magnesium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide and barium hydroxide.

Further inorganic alkalizing agents which can be used according to the invention from the group of alkali metal carbonates, alkaline earth metal carbonates and alkali hydrogen carbonates are, for example, sodium carbonate, potassium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, calcium carbonate, sodium hydrogen carbonate and potassium hydrogen carbonate.

Further inorganic alkalizing agents which can be used according to the invention from the group of the alkali metal phosphates and that of the alkaline earth metal phosphates are, for example, sodium phosphate and potassium phosphate.

In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent contains at least one alkalizing agent selected from the group consisting of C ₁ -C ₆ alkanolamines, basic amino acids, ammonia, alkali metal metasilicates, alkaline earth metal metasilicates, alkali metal silicates , the alkaline earth metal silicates, the alkali metal hydroxides, the alkaline earth metal hydroxides, the alkali carbonates, the alkaline earth carbonates, the alkali hydrogen carbonates, the alkali metal phosphates and the alkaline earth metal phosphates. A particularly good decolorizing effect could be achieved if the decolorizing agent used in the process according to the invention contained 2-aminoethan-1-ol (monoethanolamine) and / or triethanolamine (alternatively also referred to as tris (2-hydroxyethyl) amine).

In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent contains at least one alkalizing agent from the group of 2-aminoethan-1-ol and triethanolamine.

In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent contains 2-aminoethan-1-ol and triethanolamine.

Furthermore, particularly good results could be obtained in decolorizing tests if the decolorizing agent used in the process according to the invention contained sodium metasilicate, potassium metasilicate, sodium silicate and / or potassium silicate.

In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent contains at least one alkalizing agent from the group of sodium metasilicate, potassium metasilicate, sodium silicate and / or potassium silicate.

Water content in the decolorizer

To further optimize the decolorizing effect, it has been found to be advantageous to set the water content in the decolorizing agent to certain values. It is particularly preferred if the decolorizing agent - based on the total weight of the decolorizing agent - 5 to 70 wt .-%, preferably 10 to 60 wt .-%, more preferably 15 to 50 and very particularly preferably 20 to 40 wt .-% Contains water.

In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent - based on the total weight of the decolorizing agent - 5 to 70% by weight, preferably 10 to 60% by weight, more preferably 15 to 50 and very particularly preferably 20 to 40% by weight of water. pH values of the decolorizer

In further tests it has been found that the decolorizing performance could be improved even further by setting the optimal pH value. The best results were obtained when the decolorizing agent was adjusted to pH values in the range from 8.5 to 12.5, preferably from 9.5 to 12.0, more preferably from 9.5 to 11.5 and very particularly preferably from 9 .5 to 11.0 has been set. In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent has a pH of 8.5 to 12.5, preferably 9.5 to 12.0, more preferably 9.5 to 11, 5 and very particularly preferably from 9.5 to 11.0.

The pH values can be carried out using the usual methods known from the prior art, such as, for example, measurement using glass electrodes using combination electrodes or using pH indicator paper. The pH values in the context of the present invention are pH values that were measured at a temperature of 22 ° C.

The pH value is preferably set by using the alkalizing agent (s) (b) in the appropriate quantity ranges. To fine-tune the pH, it may also be necessary to add acidifying agents in smaller quantities

Silicone oils in the decolorizer

To further improve the decolorizing effect, it has proven to be particularly advantageous because at least one silicone oil is added to the decolorizing agent as a further ingredient.

In the context of a further particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is therefore characterized in that the decolorizing agent additionally contains at least one silicone oil.

In the context of the present invention, the term “oil” is understood to mean a substance which is liquid at room temperature (25 ° C.). Furthermore, in the context of the invention, an oil has a solubility in water of less than 1 g / l, preferably less than 0.5 g / l, particularly preferably less than 0.1 g / l (measured at 25 ° C.).

The water solubility of the silicone oil can be determined, for example, in the following way: 1.0 g of the silicone oil are placed in a beaker. Then 1000 ml (1 liter) of water are added. A stir bar is added and the mixture is warmed to 25 ° C on a magnetic stirrer while stirring. It is stirred for 60 minutes. The aqueous mixture is then assessed visually. If a second phase is still visible after this period, i.e. a separate oil phase in addition to the water phase, then the solubility of the silicone oil is less than 1 g / l (1 gram / liter).

The silicone oils optionally contained in the decolorizing agent are polymeric compounds whose molecular weight is at least 500 g / mol, preferably at least 1000 g / mol, more preferably at least 2500 g / mol, and particularly preferably at least 5000 g / mol. These silicone oils comprise Si-O repeat units, it being possible for the Si atoms to carry organic radicals such as, for example, alkyl groups or substituted alkyl groups.

In accordance with the high molecular weight of the silicone oils, these are based on more than 10 Si-O repeat units, preferably more than 50 Si-O repeat units and particularly preferably more than 100 Si-O repeat units.

To solve this problem, silicone oils with a viscosity of 5 to 3000 mm ² / s (measured according to ASTM standard D-445) have proven to be particularly suitable (measurement at 25 ° C.).

It has proven to be very particularly preferred to use at least one silicone oil with a viscosity of 5 to 3000 mm ² / s, preferably 10 to 2000 mm ² / s, more preferably 10 to 1000 mm ² / s, as a further optional component in the decolorizing agent, even more preferably from 10 to 500 mm ² / s and very particularly preferably from 10 to 500 mm ² / s (always measured according to ASTM standard D-445, 25 ° C.).

In the context of a further explicitly very particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent additionally has at least one silicone oil with a viscosity of 5 to 3000 mm ² / s, preferably from 10 to 2000 mm ² / s, more preferably from 10 to 1000 mm ² / s, and particularly preferably from 10 to 500 mm ² / s, measured according to ASTM standard D-445.

ASTM Standard D-445 is the standard method for measuring the kinematic viscosity of transparent and opaque liquids.

The viscosity was measured in particular according to ASTM Standard D-446, Version 06 (D445-06), published June 2006. With this measurement method, the time is measured that the defined volume of a liquid needs to pass through the capillary of a liquid under defined conditions calibrated viscometer to flow. Refer to ASMT-D445, especially ASTM D445-06, for the details of the method. Measurement temperature is 25 ° C. Suitable equipment (such as viscometers and thermometers and the corresponding calibrations) are indicated in the method.

In principle, various silicone oils can be used in the decolorizing agent, but the use of polydimethylsiloxanes has proven to be particularly advantageous in terms of improving the decolorizing performance. For this reason it is very particularly preferred if the agent (c) contains at least one silicone oil from the group of the polydimethylsiloxanes (dimethicones).

In the context of a further explicitly very particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent contains at least one silicone oil from the group of polydimethylsiloxanes.

The silicone oils from the group of linear polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) are compounds of the general structure (PDMS-I)

Here, z is chosen so that the dimethicones are liquid and preferably have the aforementioned viscosity ranges that are particularly well suited.

Preferably, z can represent an integer from 50 to 100,000, more preferably from 100 to 50,000, particularly preferably from 500 to 50,000.

Corresponding dimethicones can be obtained commercially from various manufacturers. Dimethicone, for example, which is commercially available from Dow Chemicals under the trade name Xiameter PMX 200 Silicone Fluid 50 CS, whose viscosity is 50 mm ² / s (at 25 ° C.), is very particularly suitable. This dimethicone is most of all preferred.

Another particularly suitable dimethicone is the Xiameter PMX 200 Silicone Fluid 100 CS, also available from Dow Corning, whose viscosity is 100 mm ² / s (measurement at 25 ° C.).

Another particularly well-suited dimethicone is the Xiameter PMX 200 Silicone Fluid 350 CS, also available from Dow Corning, with a viscosity of 350 mm ² / s (at 25 ° C.).

Another particularly suitable dimethicone is Dow Corning 200 fluid 500 cSt available from Dow Corning, the viscosity of which is 500 mm ² / s (at 25 ° C.).

The silicone oil or oils are preferably contained in the decolorizing agent in certain quantity ranges. The decolorizing agent very particularly preferably contains - based on the total weight of the decolorizing agent - one or more silicone oils in a total amount of 10 to 70% by weight, preferably from 15 to 60% by weight, more preferably from 20 to 50% by weight and very particularly preferably from 25 to 45% by weight.

In the context of a further preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent - based on the total weight of the decolorizing agent - contains one or more silicone oils in a total amount of 10 to 70% by weight, preferably 15 to 60% by weight , more preferably from 20 to 50% by weight and very particularly preferably from 25 to 45% by weight.

In a further preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent - based on the total weight of the decolorizing agent - contains one or more silicone oils from the group of polydimethylsiloxanes in a total amount of 10 to 70% by weight, preferably 15 to 60% by weight, more preferably from 20 to 50% by weight and very particularly preferably from 25 to 45% by weight. other surfactants in the decolorizing agent

The decolorizing performance of the decolorizing agent used in the process according to the invention can be further improved by using at least one further surfactant which is different from the cationic surfactant (b)

The term surfactants (T) is understood to mean surface-active substances which form adsorption layers on surfaces and interfaces or can aggregate in volume phases to form micellar colloids or lyotropic mesophases. A distinction is made between anionic surfactants consisting of a hydrophobic residue and a negatively charged hydrophilic head group, amphoteric surfactants, which carry both a negative and a compensating positive charge, cationic surfactants, which have a positively charged hydrophilic group in addition to a hydrophobic residue, and nonionic surfactants, which have no charges but rather strong dipole moments and are strongly hydrated in aqueous solution.

A particularly good effect could be observed when the decolorizing agent contained at least one anionic surfactant.

In a particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent contains at least an anionic surfactant.

Anionic surfactants according to the invention are characterized by the presence of a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as. B. a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group with about 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In addition, in Molecule contain glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups as well as hydroxyl groups.

Typical examples of anionic surfactants are alkylbenzenesulfonates, alkanesulfonates, olefin sulfonates, alkyl ether sulfonates, glycerol ether sulfonates, α-methyl ester sulfonates, sulfo fatty acids, alkyl sulfates, fatty alcohol ether sulfates, glycerol ether sulfates, hydroxy mixed ether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, fatty acid sulfates, monoglyceride (ether) sulfates, fatty ether sulfates, fatty ether sulfates, fatty ether sulfates, fatty ether sulfates, fatty ether sulfates, ether sulfates, and fatty acid sulfates, monoglyceride (ether) sulfates. Mono- and dialkyl sulphosuccinamates, sulpho triglycerides, amide soaps, ether carboxylic acids and their salts, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, acyl lactylates, acyl tartrates, acyl glutamates, acyl aspartates, alkyl oligoglucoside-based products (especially wheat-based) alkyl oligoglucoside sulfates (especially wheat fatty acid sulfates) and (in particular, wheat-based) alkyl oligoglucoside (ethereal) fatty acid sulfates (alkyl oligoglucoside-based products) and protein fatty acids (alkyl oligoglucoside sulfates). If the anionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, these can have a conventional, but preferably a narrow, homolog distribution.

Examples of anionic surfactants according to the invention are, each in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium as well as the mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts with 2 to 4 carbon atoms in the alkanol group, linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms (Soap),

Ether carboxylic acids of the formula RO- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ 0) x-CH ₂ -C00H, in which R is a linear alkyl group with 8 to 30 carbon atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16,

Acyl sarcosides with 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,

Acyl taurides with 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,

Acyl isethionates with 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group, which can be obtained by esterifying fatty acids with the sodium salt of 2-hydroxyethane sulfonic acid (isethionic acid). If you use fatty acids with 8 to 24 carbon atoms for this esterification, e.g. B. lauric, myristic, palimitic or stearic acid or technical fatty acid fractions, e.g. B. the C12- C ₁₈ fatty acid fraction obtainable from coconut fatty acid is used to obtain the C12- C ₁₈ acyl isethionates which are preferred according to the invention,

Sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters with 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid mono-alkyl polyoxyethyl esters with 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups. Sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters can be prepared by reacting maleic anhydride with a fatty alcohol with 8-24 carbon atoms to form the maleic acid monoester of the fatty alcohol and further reaction with sodium sulfite to form the sulfosuccinic acid ester. Particularly suitable sulfosuccinic acid esters are derived from fatty alcohol fractions with 12-18 carbon atoms, as z. B. from coconut fatty acid or coconut fatty acid methyl ester are accessible by hydrogenation, linear alkanesulfonates with 8 to 24 carbon atoms, linear alpha-olefin sulfonates with 8 to 24 carbon atoms, Alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms,

Alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula R-0 (CH ₂ -CH ₂ 0) x-OSC> 3H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group with 8 to 30 carbon atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 12, hydroxysulfonates essentially correspondingly at least one of the following two formulas or their mixtures and their salts, CH ₃ - (CH ₂ ) y-CH0H- (CH ₂ ) p- (CH-SO ₃ M) - (CH ₂ ) z-CH ₂ -O- ( CnH ₂ n 0) x H and / or CH ₃ - (CH _y ₂₎ - (CH-S03M) - (CH ₂₎ p-CH0H- (CH ₂₎ z CH ₂ -O- (C n H ₂ n 0) x H wherein in both formulas y and z = 0 or whole numbers from 1 to 18, p = 0, 1 or 2 and the sum (y + z + p) a number from 12 to 18, x = 0 or a number from 1 to 30 and n is an integer from 2 to 4 and M = H or alkali, in particular sodium, potassium, lithium, alkaline earth, in particular magnesium, calcium, zinc and / or an ammonium ion, which can optionally be substituted, in particular mono-, di -, tri- or tetraammonium ions with C1 to C4 alkyl, alkenyl or aryl radicals, sulfated hydroxyalkyl polyethylene and / ode r hydroxyalkylenepropylene glycol ethers of the formula R ¹ - (CH0S0 ₃ M) -CHR ³ - (OCHR ⁴ -CH ₂ ) n-0R ² with R ¹ , a linear alkyl radical with 1 to 24 carbon atoms, R ² for a linear or branched one, saturated alkyl radical with 1 to 24 carbon atoms, R ³ for hydrogen or a linear alkyl radical with 1 to 24 carbon atoms, R ⁴ for hydrogen or a methyl radical and M for hydrogen, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium, in which the alkyl and alkanol radicals each have 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or a metal atom selected from lithium, sodium, potassium, calcium or magnesium and n stands for a number in the range from 0 to 12 and also the total number of carbon atoms contained in R ¹ and R ³ 2 to 44, sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids with 8 to 24 carbon atoms and 1 to 6 double bonds,

Esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols which are adducts of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols with 8 to 22 carbon atoms, alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates of the formula,

R ¹ (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) nO- (PO-OX) -0R ² , in which R ^{1 is} preferably an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R ^{2 is} hydrogen, a radical (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) nR ² orX, n stands for numbers from 1 to 10 and X stands for hydrogen, an alkali or alkaline earth metal or NR ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ R ⁶ , with R ³ to R ⁶ independently of one another being hydrogen or a C1 to C ₄ hydrocarbon radical , sulfated Fettsäurealkylenglykolester of the formula RCO (AlkO) _n SC> 3M in RCO- is a linear or branched, aliphatic, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl group containing 6 to 22 carbon atoms, AlkfürCH ₂ CH _2, CHCH ₃ CH ₂ and / or CH ₂ CHCH ₃ , n stands for numbers from 0.5 to 5 and M stands for a metal such as alkali metal, in particular sodium, potassium, lithium, alkaline earth metal, in particular magnesium, calcium, zinc, or ammonium ion, such as ⁺ NR ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ R ⁶ , with R ³ to R ⁶ independently of one another stand for hydrogen or a C1 to C4 hydrocarbon radical, Monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates of the formula

R ⁸ 0C- (0CH ₂ CH ₂ ) x-0CH ₂ - [CH0 (CH ₂ CH ₂ 0) yH] -CH ₂ 0 (CH ₂ CH ₂ 0) z-SO3X, in which R ⁸ CO for a linear or branched acyl radical with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, x, y and z in total for 0 or for numbers from 1 to 30, preferably 2 to 10, and X stands for an alkali or alkaline earth metal. Typical examples of monoglyceride (ether) sulfates which are suitable for the purposes of the invention are the reaction products of lauric acid monoglyceride, coconut fatty acid monoglyceride, palmitic acid monoglyceride, stearic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride and tallow fatty acid monoglyceride and their ethylene oxide adducts in the form of their sodium sulfonate trioxide or their sodium sulfate. Preference is given to using monoglyceride sulfates in which R ⁸ CO stands for a linear acyl radical with 8 to 18 carbon atoms,

Amide ether carboxylic acids, R ¹ -CO-NR ² -CH ₂ CH ₂ -O- (CH ₂ CH ₂ 0) _n CH ₂ C00M, with R ¹ as a straight-chain or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical with a number of carbon atoms in the chain of 2 to 30, n stands for an integer from 1 to 20 and R ² stands for hydrogen, a methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, t-butyl or iso-butyl radical and M stands for Hydrogen or a metal such as alkali metal, in particular sodium, potassium, lithium, alkaline earth metal, in particular magnesium, calcium, zinc, or an ammonium ion, such as + NR ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ R ⁶ , with R ³ to R ⁶ independently representing hydrogen or a C1 to C4 hydrocarbon radical. Such products are obtainable, for example by the company Chem Y under the product name Akypo ^®, and

Acyl glutamates of the formula XOOC-CH ₂ CH ₂ CH (C (NH) OR) -COOX, in which RCO stands for a linear or branched acyl radical with 6 to 22 carbon atoms and 0 and / or 1, 2 or 3 double bonds and X for hydrogen, an alkali and / or alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium or glucammonium.

The treatment of the colored keratinous material with a decolorizing agent containing the aforementioned anionic surfactants has led to very good results in the decolorizing experiment. Surprisingly, it has been shown here that the decolorizing capacity could be further optimized by using one or more special anionic surfactants. A particularly good color removal could be obtained if the keratin material was treated with at least one anionic surfactant (b) from the group of

Alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula R-0 (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) x-0S03H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group with 8 to 30 carbon atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 12.

In a particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is therefore characterized in that the decolorizing agent contains at least one anionic surfactant selected from the group of

Alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula R-0 (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) x-0S03H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group with 8 to 30 carbon atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 12. The decolorizing agents according to the invention preferably contain one or more anionic surfactants in a total amount of from 1.0 to 20.0% by weight, preferably from 3.0 to 18.0% by weight, more preferably from 5.0 to 16, 0% by weight and very particularly preferably from 7.0 to 14.0% by weight. The data in% by weight are based on the total amount of all anionic surfactants, which are related to the total amount of the decolorizing agent.

In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is therefore characterized in that the decolorizing agent - based on the total weight of the agent - has one or more anionic surfactants in a total amount of 1.0 to 20.0% by weight, preferably 3. 0 to 18.0% by weight, more preferably from 5.0 to 16.0% by weight and very particularly preferably from 7.0 to 14.0% by weight.

Fat components in the decolorizing agent

The decolorizing agent used in the process according to the invention can also contain at least one fat component as a further optional component.

The fat components are hydrophobic substances which, in the presence of water, can form emulsions with the formation of micelle systems.

For the purposes of the invention, “fat components” are organic compounds with a solubility in water at room temperature (22 ° C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) of less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight Roger that. The definition of fat components explicitly only includes uncharged (i.e. non-ionic) compounds. Fat components have at least one saturated or unsaturated alkyl group with at least 12 carbon atoms. The molecular weight of the fat constituents is a maximum of 5000 g / mol, preferably a maximum of 2500 g / mol and particularly preferably a maximum of 1000 g / mol. The fat components are neither polyoxyalkylated nor polyglycerylated compounds.

The fat components are very particularly preferably selected from the group of the C12-C30 fatty alcohols, the C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ fatty acid triglycerides, the C1 ₂ -C30 fatty acid monoglycerides, the C12-C30 fatty acid diglycerides and / or the hydrocarbons.

Particularly preferred fat components in this context are the components from the group of C1 ₂ -C ₃₀ fatty alcohols, C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ fatty acid triglycerides, C12 -C30 fatty acid monoglycerides, C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ fatty acid diglycerides and / or Understood hydrocarbons. For the purposes of the present invention, only nonionic substances are explicitly considered as fat components. Charged compounds such as fatty acids and their salts are not understood as a fat component. The C1 ₂ -C30 fatty alcohols can be saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, linear or branched fatty alcohols with 12 to 30 carbon atoms.

Examples of preferred linear, saturated C1 ₂ -C30 fatty alcohols are dodecan-1-ol (dodecyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol), tetradecan-1-ol (tetradecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol), hexadecan-1-ol (hexadecyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmityl alcohol), Octadecan-1-ol (octadecyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol), arachyl alcohol (eicosan-1-ol), heneicosyl alcohol (heneicosan-1-ol) and / or behenyl alcohol (docosan-1-ol).

Preferred linear, unsaturated fatty alcohols are (9Z) -octadec-9-en-1-ol (oleyl alcohol), (9 £) - octadec-9-en-1-ol (elaidyl alcohol), (9Z, 12Z) -octadeca-9 , 12-dien-1-ol (linoleyl alcohol), (9Z, 12Z, 15Z) -octadeca-9,12,15-trien-1-ol (linolenoyl alcohol), gadoleyl alcohol ((9Z) -Eicos-9-en-1 - ol), arachidonic alcohol ((5Z, 8Z, 11Z, 14Z) -Eicosa-5,8,11, 14-tetraen-1-ol), erucyl alcohol ((13Z) -Docos-13-en-1-ol) and / or brassidyl alcohol ((13E) -docosen-1-ol).

The preferred representatives of branched fatty alcohols are 2-octyl-dodecanol, 2-hexyl-dodecanol and / or 2-butyl-dodecanol.

In one embodiment, particularly good results were obtained when the decolorizing agent contains one or more C1 ₂ -C30 fatty alcohols from the group of dodecan-1-ol (dodecyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol), tetradecan-1-ol (tetradecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol), hexadecane -1-ol (hexadecyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmityl alcohol), octadecan-1-ol (octadecyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol), arachyl alcohol (eicosan-1-ol), heneicosyl alcohol (heneicosan-1-ol), behenyl alcohol (docosan-1-ol), (9Z) -Octadec-9-en-1-ol (oleyl alcohol), (9E) -Octadec-9-en-1-ol (elaidyl alcohol), (9Z, 12Z) -Octadeca-9,12-diene-1 - ol (linoleyl alcohol), (9Z, 12Z, 15Z) -octadeca-9,12,15-trien-1-ol (linolenoyl alcohol), gadoleyl alcohol ((9Z) -Eicos-9-en-1-ol), arachidone alcohol (( 5Z, 8Z, 11Z, 14Z) - Eicosa-5,8,11, 14-tetraen-1-ol), erucyl alcohol ((13Z) -Docos-13-en-1-ol), brassidyl alcohol ((13 E) - Docosen-1-ol) contains 2-octyl-dodecanol, 2-hexyl-dodecanol and / or 2-butyl-dodecanol.

In a particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent consists of one or more C1 ₂ -C30 fatty alcohols from the group

Dodecan-1 -ol (dodecyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol),

Tetradecan-1-ol (tetradecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol),

Hexadecan-1-ol (hexadecyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmityl alcohol),

Octadecan-1-ol (octadecyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol),

Arachyl alcohol (eicosan-1-ol),

Heneicosyl alcohol (heneicosan-1-ol), Behenyl alcohol (docosan-1-ol),

(9Z) -Octadec-9-en-1-ol (oleyl alcohol),

(9E) -Octadec-9-en-1-ol (elaidyl alcohol),

(9Z, 12Z) -Octadeca-9,12-dien-1-ol (linoleyl alcohol),

(9Z, 12Z, 15Z) -Octadeca-9,12,15-trien-1-ol (linolenoyl alcohol),

Gadoleyl alcohol ((9Z) -Eicos-9-en-1-ol),

Arachidonic alcohol ((5Z, 8Z, 11Z, 14Z) -Eicosa-5,8,11, 14-tetraen-1-ol),

Erucyl alcohol ((13Z) -Docos-13-en-1 -ol),

Brassidyl alcohol ((13E) -docosen-1-ol),

2-octyl-dodecanol,

Contains 2-hexyl-dodecanol and / or 2-butyl-dodecanol.

It has proven to be very particularly preferred to use one or more C1 ₂ -C30 fatty alcohols in very specific quantity ranges.

It is very particularly preferred if the decolorizing agent - based on the total weight of the decolorizing agent - has one or more C1 ₂ -C30 fatty alcohols in a total amount of 2.0 to 50.0% by weight, preferably from 4.0 to 40 , 0% by weight, more preferably from 6.0 to 30.0% by weight, even more preferably from 8.0 to 20.0% by weight and very particularly preferably from 10.0 to 15.0% by weight .-% contains.

In the context of a further particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent - based on the total weight of the decolorizing agent - contains one or more C1 ₂ -C30 fatty alcohols in a total amount of 2.0 to 50.0% by weight , preferably from 4.0 to 40.0% by weight, more preferably from 6.0 to 30.0% by weight, even more preferably from 8.0 to 20.0% by weight and very particularly preferably from Contains 10.0 to 15.0% by weight.

Furthermore, as a very particularly preferred fat component, the decolorizing agent can also contain at least one C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ fatty acid triglyceride, the C1 ₂ -C30 fatty acid monoglyceride and / or C12-C30 fatty acid diglyceride. For the purposes of the present invention, a C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ fatty acid triglyceride is understood to mean the triester of the trihydric alcohol glycerol with three equivalents of fatty acid. Both structurally identical and different fatty acids within a triglyceride molecule can be involved in the ester formation.

According to the invention, fatty acids are to be understood as meaning saturated or unsaturated, unbranched or branched, unsubstituted or substituted C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ carboxylic acids. Unsaturated fatty acids can be monounsaturated or polyunsaturated. In the case of an unsaturated fatty acid, its CC double bond (s) can have the cis or trans configuration. The fatty acid triglycerides are characterized by their particular suitability, in which at least one of the ester groups is formed starting from glycerol with a fatty acid selected from dodecanoic acid (lauric acid), tetradecanoic acid (myristic acid), hexadecanoic acid (palmitic acid), tetracosanoic acid (lignoceric acid), octadecanoic acid (Stearic acid), eicosanoic acid (arachidic acid), docosanoic acid (behenic acid), petroselinic acid [(Z) -6-octadecenoic acid], palmitoleic acid [(9Z) -hexadec-9-enoic acid], oleic acid [(9Z) -octadec-9-enoic acid] , Elaidic acid [(9E) - octadec-9-enoic acid], erucic acid [(13Z) -Docos-13-enoic acid], linoleic acid [(9Z, 12Z) -octadeca-9,12-dienoic acid, linolenic acid [(9Z, 12Z, 15Z) -Octadeca-9,12,15-trienoic acid, eleostearic acid [(9Z, 11 E, 13E) -Octadeca-9,11, 3-trienoic acid], arachidonic acid [(5Z, 8Z, 11Z, 14Z) -lcosa-5 , 8,11, 14-tetraenoic acid] and / or nervonic acid [(15Z) -Tetracos-15-enoic acid]

The fatty acid triglycerides can also be of natural origin. The fatty acid triglycerides or mixtures thereof occurring in soybean oil, peanut oil, olive oil, sunflower oil, macadamia nut oil, moringa oil, apricot kernel oil, marula oil, avocado oil, almond oil and / or optionally hydrogenated castor oil, or mixtures thereof, are particularly suitable for use in the product according to the invention.

A C1 ₂ -C30 fatty acid monoglyceride is understood to mean the monoester of the trihydric alcohol glycerol with one equivalent of fatty acid. Either the middle hydroxyl group of the glycerol or the terminal hydroxyl group of the glycerol can be esterified with the fatty acid.

The C1 ₂ -C30 fatty acid monoglycerides are particularly suitable, in which a hydroxyl group of the glycerol is esterified with a fatty acid, the fatty acids being selected from dodecanoic acid (lauric acid), tetradecanoic acid (myristic acid), hexadecanoic acid (palmitic acid), tetracosanoic acid ( Lignoceric acid), octadecanoic acid (stearic acid), eicosanoic acid (arachidic acid), docosanoic acid (behenic acid), petroselinic acid [(Z) -6-octadecenic acid], palmitoleic acid [(9Z) -hexadec-9-enoic acid], oleic acid [(9Z) - Octadec-9-enoic acid], elaidic acid [(9E) -octadec-9-enoic acid], erucic acid [(13Z) -Docos-13-enoic acid], linoleic acid [(9Z, 12Z) -octadeca- 9,12-dienoic acid, linolenic acid [(9Z, 12Z, 15Z) -Octadeca-9,12,15-trienoic acid, eleostearic acid [(9Z, 11 E, 13E) -Octadeca-9,11, 3-trienoic acid], arachidonic acid [(5Z, 8Z, 11Z, 14Z) -lcosa-5,8,11, 14-tetraenoic acid] or nervonic acid [(15Z) -Tetracos-15-enoic acid]

A C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ fatty acid diglyceride is understood as meaning the diester of the trihydric alcohol glycerol with two equivalents of fatty acid. Either the middle and one terminal hydroxyl group of the glycerol can be esterified with two equivalents of fatty acid, or both terminal hydroxyl groups of the glycerol are esterified with one fatty acid each. The glycerine can be esterified with two structurally identical as well as with two different fatty acids. The fatty acid diglycerides are characterized by their particular suitability, in which at least one of the ester groups is formed from glycerol with a fatty acid selected from dodecanoic acid (lauric acid), tetradecanoic acid (myristic acid), hexadecanoic acid (palmitic acid), tetracosanoic acid (lignoceric acid), octadecanoic acid (Stearic acid), eicosanoic acid (arachidic acid), docosanoic acid (behenic acid), petroselinic acid [(Z) -6-octadecenoic acid], palmitoleic acid [(9Z) -hexadec-9-enoic acid], oleic acid [(9Z) -octadec-9-enoic acid] , Elaidic acid [(9E) - octadec-9-enoic acid], erucic acid [(13Z) -Docos-13-enoic acid], linoleic acid [(9Z, 12Z) -octadeca-9,12-dienoic acid, linolenic acid [(9Z, 12Z, 15Z) -Octadeca-9,12,15-trienoic acid, eleostearic acid [(9Z, 11 E, 13E) -Octadeca-9,11, 3-trienoic acid], arachidonic acid [(5Z, 8Z, 11Z, 14Z) -lcosa-5 , 8,11, 14-tetraenoic acid] and / or nervonic acid [(15Z) -Tetracos-15-enoic acid]

Particularly good results were obtained when the decolorizing agent contained at least one C12-C30 fatty acid monoglyceride, which is selected from the monoesters of glycerol with one equivalent fatty acid from the group of dodecanoic acid (lauric acid), tetradecanoic acid (myristic acid), hexadecanoic acid (palmitic acid) , Tetracosanoic acid (lignoceric acid), octadecanoic acid (stearic acid), eicosanoic acid (arachidic acid), docosanoic acid (behenic acid), petroselinic acid [(Z) -6-octadecenoic acid], palmitoleic acid [(9Z) -hexadec-9-enoic acid], oleic acid [(9Z) - Octadec-9-enoic acid], elaidic acid [(9E) -octadec-9-enoic acid], erucic acid [(13Z) -Docos-13-enoic acid], linoleic acid [(9Z, 12Z) -octadeca-9,12-dienoic acid, Linolenic acid [(9Z, 12Z, 15Z) -Octadeca-9,12,15-trienoic acid, eleostearic acid [(9Z, 11 E, 13E) -Octadeca-9,11, 3-trienoic acid], arachidonic acid [(5Z, 8Z, 11Z , 14Z) -Icosa-5,8,11, 14-tetraenoic acid] and / or nervonic acid [(15Z) -Tetracos-15-enoic acid].

In the context of a particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent contains at least one C1 ₂ -O30 fatty acid monoglyceride which is selected from the monoesters of glycerol with one equivalent of fatty acid from the group of dodecanoic acid, tetradecanoic acid, Hexadecanoic acid, tetracosanoic acid, octadecanoic acid, eicosanoic acid and / or docosanoic acid.

It has also been found to be particularly preferred to use one or more C1 ₂ -O30 fatty acid mono-, C1 ₂ -O30 fatty acid and / or C1 ₂ -O30 fatty acid triglycerides in very specific quantity ranges in the decolorizing agent.

With regard to the solution of the object according to the invention, it has proven to be particularly preferred if the decolorizing agent - based on the total weight of the decolorizing agent - has one or more C1 ₂ -Ö30-Fettsäuremono-, C1 ₂ -Ö3o-Fettsäuredi and / or C12-C30 fatty acid triglycerides in a total amount of 0.1 to 20.0% by weight, preferably 0.3 to 15.0% by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 10.0% by weight and very particularly preferably from 0.8 to 5.0% by weight. In a particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent - based on the total weight of the decolorizing agent - contains one or more C1 ₂ -C30 fatty acid mono-, C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ fatty acid di- and / or C12- C30 fatty acid triglycerides in a total amount of 0.1 to 20.0% by weight, preferably 0.3 to 15.0% by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 10.0% by weight and very particularly preferably from Contains 0.8 to 5.0% by weight.

The C1 ₂ -C30 fatty acid mono-, C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ fatty acid di- and / or C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ fatty acid triglycerides can be used as sole fat constituents in the decolorizing agent. However, it is very particularly preferred to incorporate at least one C1 ₂ -C30 fatty acid mono-, C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ fatty acid di and / or C12-C30 fatty acid triglyceride in combination with at least one C1 ₂ -C30 fatty alcohol in the decolorizing agent.

Furthermore, as a particularly preferred fat component, the decolorizing agent can also contain at least one hydrocarbon.

Hydrocarbons are compounds with 8 to 80 C atoms that consist exclusively of carbon and hydrogen. In this context, aliphatic hydrocarbons such as mineral oils, liquid paraffin oils (e.g. Paraffinium Liquidum or Paraffinum Perliquidum), isoparaffin oils, semi-solid paraffin oils, paraffin waxes, hard paraffin (Paraffinum Solidum), petrolatum and polydecene are particularly preferred.

Liquid paraffin oils (Paraffinum Liquidum and Paraffinium Perliquidum) have proven to be particularly suitable in this context. The hydrocarbon is very particularly preferably Paraffinum Liquidum, also called white oil. Paraffinum Liquidum is a mixture of purified, saturated, aliphatic hydrocarbons, which mostly consists of hydrocarbon chains with a carbon chain distribution of 25 to 35 carbon atoms.

Particularly good results were obtained when the decolorizing agent contained at least one hydrocarbon selected from the group of mineral oils, liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils, semi-solid paraffin oils, paraffin waxes, hard paraffin (Paraffinum Solidum), petrolatum and polydecene.

In a particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent contains at least one fat component from the group of hydrocarbons. The rate of the film formation starting from the C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxy-silanes can also be influenced to a particularly large extent by choosing the suitable amounts of hydrocarbons used. For this reason, it has proven to be particularly preferred to use one or more hydrocarbons in very specific quantity ranges in the decolorizing agent.

With a view to solving the problem according to the invention, it has proven to be particularly preferred if the decolorizing agent - based on the total weight of the decolorizing agent - prefers one or more hydrocarbons in a total amount of 0.5 to 20.0% by weight 1.0 to 15.0% by weight, more preferably from 1.5 to 10.0% by weight and very particularly preferably from 2.0 to 8.0% by weight.

In the context of a particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent - based on the total weight of the decolorizing agent - contains one or more hydrocarbons in a total amount of 0.5 to 20.0% by weight, preferably 1, 0 to 15.0% by weight, more preferably from 1.5 to 10.0% by weight and very particularly preferably from 2.0 to 8.0% by weight.

Other cosmetic ingredients in the decolorizing agent

In addition to the ingredients which are essential to the invention and which can be used optionally, as already described above, the decolorizing agent can also contain one or more other cosmetic ingredients.

The person skilled in the art will select these additional substances according to the desired properties of the agents. With regard to further optional components and the amounts of these components used, express reference is made to the relevant manuals known to the person skilled in the art.

Application of the decolorizer

In the context of the method according to the invention, the decolorizing agent described above is applied to the colored keratin material and rinsed off again after an exposure time.

It can be used, for example, with the (gloved) hand or with the aid of an applicator, such as a brush or an aplicette, or else a brush or a comb.

Depending on whether the user wants a complete discoloration or whether only certain parts or If strands are to be decolorized, the decolorizing agent can be applied either to the entire keratinous material (such as the entire scalp hair) or to certain parts or corresponding strands of the keratin material or the keratin fibers. After application or applications, the decolorizing agent is allowed to act on the keratin material for a certain period of time. For example, the exposure time can last from 5 to 60 minutes, preferably from 5 to 50 minutes, more preferably from 5 to 40 minutes and very particularly preferably from 5 to 30 minutes. After this exposure time, the decolorizing agent is rinsed out again with water

In a further preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent is applied to the colored keratin material and after an exposure time of 5 to 60 minutes, preferably from 5 to 50 minutes, more preferably from 5 to 40 minutes and very particularly preferably is rinsed off again for 5 to 30 minutes.

The action of the decolorizing agent on the keratin material can be carried out at room temperature or at body temperature. To support or accelerate the color removal, however, the keratin material to which the decolorizing agent has been applied can also be exposed to elevated temperatures. It is according to the invention when the decolorizing agent is applied to the colored keratin material, we apply the keratin material during the action of the decolorizing agent at a temperature of 25 to 70 °, preferably 25 to 60 ° C, more preferably 30 to 55 ° C and very particularly is preferably heated from 40 to 55 ° C.

In a further embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that

- The decolorizing agent is applied to the colored keratin material

- The keratin material is heated to a temperature of 25 to 70 °, preferably from 25 to 60 ° C, more preferably from 30 to 55 ° C and very particularly preferably from 40 to 55 ° C during the action of the decolorizing agent, and then

- the decolorizing agent is rinsed off again.

In addition to the thermal support of the decolorizing process, it is also possible to subject the keratin material to which the decolorizing agent has been applied to mechanical stress in order to improve the detachment of the film formed on the keratin material during the coloring process. For example, the keratin material can be massaged with the hands or combed with a comb or brush during the decolorization process. Any other mechanical stress that is suitable for improving the detachment of the colored film from the keratin material under the action of the decolorizing agent is also conceivable and encompassed by the method according to the invention.

In a further preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that

- the decolorizing agent is applied to the colored keratin material, - the keratin material is combed, massaged, brushed or otherwise subjected to a mechanical force during the action of the decolorization, and then

- the decolorizing agent is rinsed off again.

As already described above, the decolorizing agent according to the invention can be used to decolorize keratin material which has been colored by using at least one organosilicon compound and at least one pigment. If, for example, after coloring, the user finds that the color result does not meet his requirements, he can take this as an opportunity to remove the coloring again by using the decolorizing agent.

Furthermore, the user can also plan a coloring and the subsequent decoloration in advance, for example if he wants to color his hair for a specific occasion and then decolor it again. For this purpose, the user can also be provided with all means or formulations that are necessary for both coloring and decolorization.

A second object of the present invention is therefore a method for coloring and later bleaching human hair, comprising the following steps:

(1) Applying a coloring agent to the hair, the coloring agent containing one or more organic C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxy-silanes and / or their condensation products, and one or more pigments,

(2) Allowing the dye to act on the hair,

(3) rinsing the dye out of the hair,

(4) applying a post-treatment agent to the hair, the post-treatment agent containing at least one film-forming polymer,

(5) Allowing the aftertreatment agent to act on the hair,

(6) rinsing the post-treatment agent from the hair,

(7) applying a decolorizing agent, as disclosed in detail in the description of the first subject matter of the invention, to the hair,

(8) Allowing the decolorizer to act on the hair and

(9) Rinse the decolorizer out of the hair.

Another object of the present invention is therefore a method for dyeing and later bleaching human hair, comprising the following steps:

(1) applying a pretreatment agent to the hair, the pretreatment agent containing one or more organic C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxy-silanes and / or their condensation products,

(2) Allowing the pretreatment agent to act on the hair,

(3) rinsing the pretreatment agent from the hair, (4) Application of a coloring agent to the hair, whereby coloring agent contains one or more pigments,

(5) allowing the dye to act on the hair,

(6) rinsing the dye out of the hair,

(7) Application of a decolorizing agent, as disclosed in detail in the description of the first subject matter of the invention, to the hair,

(8) Allowing the decolorizer to act on the hair and

(9) Rinse the decolorizer out of the hair.

The organic C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxy-silanes and / or their condensation products have already been disclosed in detail in the description of the first subject matter of the invention. The pigments were already disclosed in detail in the description of the first subject matter of the invention. The decolorizing agent was also disclosed in detail in the description of the first subject matter of the invention.

In the context of a further embodiment, a corresponding method is preferred, comprising the

(4) Applying a coloring agent to the hair, the coloring agent containing one or more pigments and one or more film-forming polymers.

The film-forming polymers have already been disclosed in detail in the description of the first subject matter of the invention.

Multi-component packaging unit

It is particularly convenient for the user if the appropriate coloring and decolorizing agents are made available to him in the form of a multi-component packaging unit.

A further subject matter of the present invention is therefore a multi-component packaging unit (kit-of-parts) for coloring and decolorizing keratin material, comprehensively packaged separately from one another:

- A first container with an agent which contains one or more organic C ₁ -C ₆ alkoxy silanes and / or their condensation products,

- a second container with an agent which contains at least one pigment,

a third container which contains a decolorizing agent as disclosed in detail in the description of the first subject matter of the invention, and

- optionally a fourth container with an agent which contains at least one film-forming polymer.

Another object of the invention is the use of a decolorizing agent, as disclosed in detail in the description of the first subject matter of the invention, for decolorizing keratinic material which has been colored by using at least one organic C1-C ₆ alkoxysilane and / or a condensation product thereof and by using at least one pigment.

With regard to the further preferred embodiments of the multicomponent packaging unit according to the invention and the use, the statements made regarding the method according to the invention apply mutatis mutantis.

Examples

1. Coloring of the keratinic material

1.1. Production of the silane blend (composition

A reactor with a heatable / coolable outer shell and a capacity of 10 liters was filled with 4.67 kg of methyltrimethoxysilane (34.283 mol). 1.33 kg (3-aminopropyl) triethoxysilane (6.008 mol) were then added with stirring. This mixture was stirred at 30 ° C. Then 670 ml of distilled water (37.18 mol) were added dropwise with vigorous stirring, the temperature of the reaction mixture being kept at 30 ° C. with external cooling. After the addition of water had ended, stirring was continued for a further 10 minutes. A vacuum of 280 mbar was then applied and the reaction mixture was heated to a temperature of 44.degree. As soon as the reaction mixture had reached the temperature of 44 ° C., the ethanol and methanol liberated in the reaction were distilled off over a period of 190 minutes. In the course of the distillation, the vacuum was lowered to 200 mbar. The alcohols distilled off were collected in a cooled receiver. The reaction mixture was then allowed to cool to room temperature. 3.33 kg of hexamethyldisiloxane were then added dropwise to the mixture obtained in this way with stirring. The mixture was then stirred for 10 minutes. In each case 100 ml of the silane blend were filled into a bottle with a capacity of 100 ml and a screw cap with a seal. After filling, the bottles were tightly closed. The water content was less than 2.0% by weight.

1.2. Preparation of composition (B)

The following compositions (B) were prepared (unless stated otherwise, all data are in% by weight).

Composition (B)

1.3. Preparation of the compositions (C) and CD)

The following compositions were prepared (unless otherwise stated, all data are in% by weight).

Composition (C)

Composition (D)

1 .4. Application (staining)

The ready-to-use composition was prepared in each case by mixing 1.5 g of the composition (A), 20.0 g of the composition (B) and 1.5 g of the composition (C). The compositions (A), (B) and (C) were each shaken for 1 minute, then this ready-to-use agent was dyed onto locks of hair (Kerling, Euronaturhaar white).

Three minutes after the end of the spillage, the ready-to-use composition was applied to the locks of hair, left to act for 1 minute and then rinsed out.

The composition (D) was then applied to each lock of hair, left to act for 1 minute and then also rinsed out with water. The colored tresses were then left to dry at room temperature. The tresses were left to rest for 48 hours.

2. Discoloration of the keratinic material

The following decolorizing agents were prepared (unless otherwise stated, all data are in% by weight).

The previously colored tresses were each treated with a decolorizing agent. After application, the decolorizer was left to act on the tresses for 30 minutes at room temperature. After an exposure time of 5 minutes and after 15 minutes, the hair wetted with the decolorizing agent was massaged for 3 minutes each time. The decolorizer was then rinsed off with water. Then the tresses were dried.

The dry tresses were assessed visually under a daylight lamp after dyeing and after bleaching

Color intensity: +++ = high ++ = medium + = low

Claims

1. A process for decolorizing keratin material which has been colored by using at least one organosilicon compound and at least one pigment, wherein a decolorizing agent containing

(a) at least one solvent and

2. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that the decolorizing agent on

Keratin material is applied, which has been colored by using at least one organic C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxysilane and / or a condensation product thereof and by using at least one pigment.

3. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that the decolorizing agent on

Keratin material is applied, which has been colored by using at least one organic C ₁ -C ₆ alkoxysilane and / or a condensation product thereof, by using at least one pigment and by using at least one film-forming polymer.

4. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the

Decolorant at least one solvent (a) from the group of benzyl alcohol, 1-pentanol, ethanol, phenoxyethanol, 2-phenylethanol, glycerine, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,2-ethanediol, isopropanol, dipropylene glycol, N-octylpyrrolidone, methoxybutanol, ethyl diglycol , Polyethylene glycol, 1,3-butanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, propylene carbonate and N, N-dimethyl-9-decenamide.

5. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the

Decolorizing agent - based on the total weight of the decolorizing agent - one or more solvents (a) in a total amount of 3 to 95% by weight, preferably 5 to 75% by weight, more preferably 6 to 55% by weight, even more preferably from 7 to 35% by weight and very particularly preferably from 8 to 20% by weight.

6. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the decolorizing agent - based on the total weight of the decolorizing agent - 3 to 95 wt .-%, preferably from 5 to 75 wt%, more preferably from 6 to 55 wt .-%, even more preferably from 7 to 35% by weight and very particularly preferably from 8 to 20% by weight benzyl alcohol.

7. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the decolorizing agent contains at least one cationic surfactant (b) of the general formula (T-1), wherein

RT1, RT2 independently of one another stand for a C ₁ -C ₆ -alkyl group, a C ₂ -C ₆ -alkenyl group or a hydroxy-C ₂ -C ₆ -alkyl group,

Alkyl group, or a C ₂ -C ₆ alkenyl group,

RT4 represents a C ₈ -C ₃₀ -alkyl group and

XT- stands for a physiologically compatible anion.

8. The method according to claim 7, characterized in that the decolorizing agent contains at least one cationic surfactant (b) of the general formula (T-1), wherein

RT1. RT2 independently of one another represent a C ₁ -C ₆ -alkyl group, preferably a methyl group or an ethyl group,

RT3 for a hydroxy-C ₂ -C ₆ -alkyl group, preferably for a 2-

Hydroxyethyl group, stands,

RT4 represents a C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ -alkyl group, preferably a C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ -alkyl group, more preferably a C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ -alkyl group and very particularly preferably a C16-alkyl group or a C ₁₈ -alkyl group , and XT- for a physiologically compatible anion from the group

9. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the decolorizing agent - based on the total weight of the decolorizing agent - one or more cationic surfactants3 (b) in a total amount of 0.1 to 20.0% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 12.0% by weight, more preferably from 1.0 to 6.0% by weight and very particularly preferably from 1.2 to 3.5% by weight.

10. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the decolorizing agent contains at least one alkalizing agent which is selected from the group of C ₁ -C ₆ alkanolamines, basic amino acids, ammonia, alkali metal metasilicates, alkaline earth metal metasilicates, the Alkali metal silicates, the alkaline earth metal silicates, the alkali metal hydroxides, the alkaline earth metal hydroxides, the alkali carbonates, the alkaline earth carbonates, the alkali hydrogen carbonates, the alkali metal phosphates and the alkaline earth metal phosphates.

11. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that the

Decolorizing agent contains at least one alkalizing agent from the group of 2-aminoethan-1-ol and triethanolamine.

12. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that the

The decolorizing agent contains at least one alkalizing agent from the group consisting of sodium metasilicate, potassium metasilicate, sodium silicate and potassium silicate.

13. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that the

Decolorizing agent - based on the total weight of the decolorizing agent - contains 5 to 70% by weight, preferably 10 to 60% by weight, more preferably 15 to 50 and very particularly preferably 20 to 40% by weight of water.

14. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 13, characterized in that the

The decolorizing agent has a pH of 8.5 to 12.5, preferably 9.5 to 12.0, more preferably 9.5 to 11.5 and very particularly preferably 9.5 to 11.0.

15. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 14, characterized in that the

The decolorizer also contains at least one silicone oil.

16. The method according to claim 15, characterized in that the decolorizing agent additionally has at least one silicone oil with a viscosity of 5 to 3000 mm ² / s, preferably from 10 to 2000 mm ² / s, more preferably from 10 to 1000 mm ² / s, and particularly preferably from 10 to 500 mm ² / s, measured according to ASTM Standard D-445.

17. The method according to any one of claims 15 to 16, characterized in that the decolorizing agent contains at least one silicone oil from the group of polydimethylsiloxanes.

18. The method according to any one of claims 15 to 17, characterized in that the decolorizing agent - based on the total weight of the decolorizing agent - one or more silicone oils in a total amount of 10 to 70% by weight, preferably 15 to 60% by weight, more preferably from 20 to 50% by weight and very particularly preferably from 25 to 45% by weight.

19. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 18, characterized in that the decolorizing agent contains at least anionic surfactant.

20. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 19, characterized in that the decolorizing agent is applied to the colored keratin material and after an exposure time of 5 to 60 minutes, preferably from 10 to 50 minutes, more preferably from 15 to 45 minutes and very particularly preferably is rinsed off again for 20 to 40 minutes.

21. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 20, characterized in that

- the decolorizing agent is applied to the colored keratin material,

the keratin material is combed, massaged, brushed or otherwise subjected to a mechanical force during the action of the decolorizing agent, and then

- the decolorizing agent is rinsed off again.

22. A method for coloring and later bleaching human hair, comprising the following steps:

(2) Allowing the dye to act on the hair,

(3) rinsing the dye out of the hair,

(5) Allowing the aftertreatment agent to act on the hair,

(6) rinsing the post-treatment agent from the hair,

(7) applying a decolorizing agent as defined in any one of claims 1 to 19 to the hair,

(8) Allowing the decolorizer to act on the hair and

(9) Rinse the decolorizer out of the hair.

23. A method for coloring and later bleaching human hair, comprising the following steps:

(1) applying a pretreatment agent to the hair, the pretreatment agent containing one or more organic C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxy-silanes and / or their condensation products, (2) Allowing the pretreatment agent to act on the hair,

(3) rinsing the pretreatment agent from the hair,

(4) Application of a coloring agent to the hair, whereby coloring agent contains one or more pigments,

(5) allowing the dye to act on the hair,

(6) rinsing the dye out of the hair,

(8) Allowing the decolorizer to act on the hair and

(9) Rinse the decolorizer out of the hair.

24. The method of claim 23, comprising the

25. Multi-component packaging units (kit-of-parts) for coloring and decolorizing keratin material, comprehensively packaged separately from one another:

- a second container with an agent which contains at least one pigment,

- a third container containing a decolorizing agent as defined in any one of claims 1 to 19, and

26. Use of a decolorizing agent as described in any one of claims 1 to 19 for decolorizing keratinous material which is obtained by using at least one organic C ₁ -C ₆ alkoxysilane and / or a condensation product thereof and by applying at least of a pigment was colored.