WO2021004945A1 - Composition comprising a natural dye, an anthraquinone cationic direct dye and an aromatic compound - Google Patents

Composition comprising a natural dye, an anthraquinone cationic direct dye and an aromatic compound Download PDF

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WO2021004945A1
WO2021004945A1 PCT/EP2020/068841 EP2020068841W WO2021004945A1 WO 2021004945 A1 WO2021004945 A1 WO 2021004945A1 EP 2020068841 W EP2020068841 W EP 2020068841W WO 2021004945 A1 WO2021004945 A1 WO 2021004945A1
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composition
weight
oil
chosen
dye
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PCT/EP2020/068841
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French (fr)
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Lyna ABDAT-VINDEL
Agathe LAHAYE
Maria NIETO
Lisa SALVEMINI
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L'oreal
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34Alcohols
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/35Ketones, e.g. benzophenone
    • A61K8/355Quinones
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
    • A61Q5/065Preparations for temporary colouring the hair, e.g. direct dyes
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/42Colour properties
    • A61K2800/43Pigments; Dyes
    • A61K2800/432Direct dyes

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition for dyeing human keratin fibers, comprising at least one natural dye, at least one anthraquinine cationic synthetic direct dye and at least one compound of formula (I), in which Y represents a C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl group or a C1-C4 hydroxyalkyloxy radical, n denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 5, and X, which may be identical or different, represents a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a halogen. The invention also relates to a process for dyeing human keratin fibers using this composition.

Description

Composition comprising a natural dye, an anthraquinone cationic direct dye and an aromatic compound
The present invention relates to a composition for dyeing human keratin fibers, notably the hair, comprising at least one natural dye, at least one anthraquinone cationic synthetic direct dye and at least one particular aromatic compound. The invention also relates to a dyeing process using this composition. Two major methods for dyeing human keratin fibers, and in particular the hair, are known.
One of these two methods is oxidation dyeing or permanent dyeing. This dyeing method uses one or more oxidation dye precursors, usually one or more oxidation bases optionally combined with one or more couplers.
In general, oxidation bases are chosen from ortho- or para-phenylenediamines, ortho- or para- aminophenols and heterocyclic compounds. These oxidation bases are colorless or weakly colored compounds which, when combined with oxidizing products, can give access to colored species.
The shades obtained with these oxidation bases are quite often varied by combining them with one or more couplers, these couplers being notably chosen from aromatic meta-diamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols and certain heterocyclic compounds such as indole compounds.
The variety of molecules used as oxidation bases and couplers allows a wide range of colors to be obtained. This type of dyeing also makes it possible to obtain permanent colorings, but the use of oxidizing agents may lead to degradation of the keratin fibers.
The second dyeing method, known as direct dyeing or semi-permanent dyeing, comprises the application of direct dyes, which are molecules with affinity for the fibers and which color even in the absence of an oxidizing agent added to the compositions containing them. Given the nature of the molecules used, they tend rather to remain on the surface of the fiber and penetrate relatively little into the fiber, when compared with the small molecules of oxidation dye precursors.
The direct dyes generally used are chosen from nitrobenzene, anthraquinone, nitropyridine, azo, methine, azomethine, xanthene, acridine, azine and triarylmethane direct dyes. The chemical species used may be nonionic, anionic (acidic dyes) or cationic (basic dyes). Direct dyes may also be natural dyes.
Dyeing the hair using natural direct dyes has been known since ancient times.
Compositions containing one or more natural direct dyes are applied to the keratin fibers for a time necessary to obtain the desired coloring, and are then rinsed out.
However, the colorings resulting therefrom are colorings that may be particularly chromatic, but which are, however, only temporary or semi-permanent since their desorption from the surface and/or the core of the fiber is responsible for their weak dyeing power and their poor persistence with respect to washing. Moreover, these compositions require relatively long leave-on times. They may vary from several tens of minutes to several hours (overnight) depending on the desired intensity, with no ability to control the result. The result varies as a function of the fibers to be dyed and of the nature of the natural dye(s) used.
One of the aims of the present invention is to propose colorings which are based on natural dyes and which offer a wide range of resistant shades, are respectful of the hair’s nature and have a reduced leave-on time, notably so as to overcome stability problems of the composition and to optimize the working qualities, while at the same time retaining powerful, chromatic and homogeneous colorings, between the end and the root of the same fiber and from one fiber to another.
This aim is achieved by the present invention , one subject of which is a composition for dyeing human keratin fibers, notably the hair, comprising at least one natural dye, at least one anthraquinone cationic synthetic direct dye and at least one aromatic compound of formula (I), in which Y represents a C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl group or a C1-C4 hydroxyalkyloxy radical, n denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 5, and X, which may be identical or different, represents a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a halogen.
Figure imgf000003_0001
The invention also relates to a process for dyeing human keratin fibers, which consists in applying the composition of the invention to the fibers.
The invention can thus induce very satisfactory“buildup” and/or power of the color, with a wide range of shades in reduced leave-on times.
Other subjects, features, aspects and advantages of the present invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and the examples that follow.
In the description, the term“at least one" is equivalent to“one or more”.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term“buildup” of the color on keratin fibers means the variation in coloring between locks of undyed hair and locks of dyed hair.
Natural dye(s)
The composition according to the invention comprises at least one natural dye.
In the context of the invention, the term“ natural dye” means any dye or dye precursor from a natural source, in particular of plant origin. The natural dyes may notably be obtained by extraction (and optionally purification) from a plant matrix, by grinding plants or plant parts, roots, wood, bark, berries, lichens, leaves, flowers, nuts or seeds. Natural dyes may also be obtained by fermentation.
The natural dye(s) are chosen, for example, from lawsone, juglone, alizarin, purpurin, carminic acid, kermesic acid, laccaic acid, purpurogallin, anthragallol protocatechaldehyde, indigo, isatin, curcumin, spinulosin, chlorophylls, chlorophyllines, orceins, hematin, hematoxylin, brazilin, brazileine, santaline, santarubin, carthamine, flavonoids (with, for example, morin, apigenidin and quercetin), anthocyans (such as apigeninidin), carotenoids and anthraquinones, or mixtures thereof.
Extracts, decoctions or ground matter, notably powders, containing these natural dyes and notably extracts , decoctions or ground matter obtained, for example, from pernambuco wood, campeachy wood, sandalwood, orchil, turmeric, madder, indigo-producing plants such as indigo plant, sorghum, carrot, annatto, Brazil wood, safflower, henna, plants of the Cassia family, in particular Cassia angustifolia (senna), or Cassia auriculata or Cassia italica, or mixtures thereof, may also be used.
In particular, the composition according to the invention may comprise indigo-producing plant powder and/or extract. (For the purposes of the present invention, the term“indigo-producing plant extract” means“a dye extract from an indigo-producing plant”).
As indigo-producing plants, mention may be made of numerous species derived from the following genera:
- Indigofera such as Indigofera tinctoria Indigo suffruticosa, Indigofera articulata, Indigofera arrecta, Indigofera gerardiana, Indigofera argentea, Indigofera indica, Indigofera longiracemosa·,
- Isatis such as Isatis tinctoria;
- Polygonum or Persicaria such as Polygonum tinctorium (Persicaria tinctoria)·,
- Wrightia such as Wrightia tinctoria ;
- Calanthe such as Calanthe veratrifoiia and
- Baphicacanthus such as Baphicacanthus cusia.
Preferably, the indigo-producing plant is of the genus Indigofera and more particularly is Indigofera tinctoria, suffruticosa or argentea, preferably Indigofera tinctoria.
Use may be made of all or part (in particular the leaves notably for Indigofera tinctoria) of the indigo- producing plant.
The composition according to the invention may contain henna.
According to the present invention, the term“henna” refers to a henna plant powder and/or a henna plant dye extract, preferably from a henna plant such as Lawsonia alba or Lawsonia inermis. The henna plant powder and/or dye extract notably comprises lawsone and/or a glucosyl precursor thereof.
Preferably, the henna used according to the present invention is in powder form.
The henna used in the invention is preferably red henna ( Lawsonia inermis, alba). Lawsone [83-72-7] (Cl Natural Orange 6; Cl 75420), also known as isojuglone, may be found in henna shrubs (Lawsonia alba, Lawsonia inermis). Preferably, the henna is in powder form.
The composition according to the invention may comprise a powder or a plant extract of the Cassia family, in particular Cassia angustifolia and/or Cassia auriculata and/or Cassia italica, preferably Cassia angustifolia. When the natural dye(s) are in powder form, the powder may be screened to obtain particles with upper limit sizes corresponding to the orifices or mesh sizes of the screen, particularly between 35 and 80 mesh (US). According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the size of the powder particles is fine. According to the invention, a particle size of less than or equal to 500 pm is more particularly intended. Preferentially, the powder is constituted of fine particles with sizes inclusively between 10 and 300 pm and more particularly between 50 and 250 pm. It is understood that said particles preferentially have a moisture content of between 0 and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the powders.
Preferably, the natural dye(s) are chosen from lawsone, henna extracts and/or powders, indigo, indigo-producing plant extracts and/or powders, plant extracts and/or powders of the Cassia family, in particular Cassia angustifolia, and/or Cassia auriculata and/or Cassia italica, and/or mixtures thereof. More preferentially, the natural dye(s) are chosen from lawsone, henna extracts and/or powders, Cassia angustifolia extracts and/or powders, indigo, indigo-producing plant extracts and/or powders, and/or mixtures thereof.
Even more preferentially, the natural dye(s) are chosen from lawsone, henna extracts and/or powders, Cassia angustifolia extracts and/or powders, and/or mixtures thereof.
According to a particular embodiment, the total amount of natural dyes ranges from 40% to 98% by weight, preferably from 50% to 95% by weight and better still from 60% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Anthraquinone cationic synthetic direct dye(s)
The composition according to the invention comprises at least one anthraquinone cationic synthetic direct dye.
The term“cationic synthetic direct dye” means any dye which is different from an oxidation dye, that is not naturally present, and usually referred to as“basic” direct dyes or“basic dyes” and only obtained via chemical synthesis. In particular, it is a dye which is not obtained from a plant matrix or by fermentation and which diffuses superficially on the fiber. They are referred to as“basic” by virtue of their affinity for acidic substances, notably including at least one cationic or cationizable endocyclic or exocyclic group within their structure.
The cationic direct dye(s) that may be used in the composition according to the invention comprise a quaternary ammonium group.
These cationic radicals are, for example, a cationic radical:
- bearing a (Ci-C8)alkylammonium exocyclic charge, or
- bearing an endocyclic charge, such as comprising a cationic heteroaryl group chosen from:
acridinium, benzimidazolium, benzobistriazolium, benzopyrazolium, benzopyridazinium,
benzoquinolium, benzothiazolium, benzotriazolium, benzoxazolium, bipyridinium, bistetrazolium, dihydrothiazolium, imidazopyridinium, imidazolium, indolium, isoquinolium, naphthoimidazolium, naphthoxazolium, naphthopyrazolium, oxadiazolium, oxazolium, oxazolopyridinium, oxonium, phenazinium, phenooxazolium, pyrazinium, pyrazolium, pyrazoyltriazolium, pyridinium,
pyridinoimidazolium, pyrrolium, pyrylium, quinolium, tetrazolium, thiadiazolium, thiazolium, thiazolopyridinium, thiazoylimidazolium, thiopyrylium, triazolium or xanthylium.
Preferably, the cationic charge is exocyclic.
Among anthraquinone cationic direct dyes, those of formula (II) bearing an exocyclic cationic charge are preferred:
Figure imgf000006_0001
in which:
- R1, R2 and R3, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an optionally substituted (Ci-Ce)alkyl group;
- R4 representing a hydrogen atom or an optionally substituted (Ci-Ce)alkyl group;
- R5 representing a hydrogen atom, an optionally substituted (Ci-Ce)alkyl group, an optionally substituted (Ci-Ce)alkylene group, a halogen, a hydroxyl group or a (Ci-Ce)alkoxy group ;
- n representing a number between 1 and 8;
- Q- represents an organic or mineral anionic counterion, such as a halide or an alkyl sulfate.
Preferably, in formula (II):
- R1, R2 and R3, which may be identical or different, represent an optionally substituted (Ci-C6)alkyl group;
- R4 representing a hydrogen atom or an optionally substituted (Ci-C6)alkyl group;
- R5 representing a hydrogen atom or an optionally substituted (Ci-Ce)alkyl group,
- n representing a number between 1 and 6;
- Q- representing a halide or an alkyl sulfate.
More preferentially, in formula (II):
- R1, R2 and R3, which may be identical or different, representing an optionally substituted (Ci-C3)alkyl group;
- R4 representing a hydrogen atom or a methyl; preferably a methyl; - R5 representing a hydrogen atom or a methyl, preferably a hydrogen atom;
- n representing a number between 2 and 4;
- Q- representing a halide or an alkyl sulfate, preferably a halide.
Among the dyes of formula (II), mention may notably be made of HC Blue 17.
More preferentially, use will be made of the dyes of formula (ll)’below:
Figure imgf000007_0001
with Q- being an anionic counterion, particularly halide such as bromide or chloride, or an alkyl sulfate such as methyl sulfate or mesityl. Preferably, Q- is a halide, better still a bromide.
The term“anionic counterion” means an anion or an anionic group derived from an organic or mineral acid salt which counterbalances the cationic charge of the dye; more particularly, the anionic counterion is chosen from: i) halides such as chloride or bromide; ii) nitrates; iii) sulfonates, including Ci-Ce alkylsulfonates: Alk-S(0)20- such as methanesulfonate or mesylate, and ethanesulfonate; iv) arylsulfonates: Ar-S(0)20- such as benzenesulfonate and toluenesulfonate or tosylate; v) citrate; vi) succinate; vii) tartrate; viii) lactate; ix) alkyl sulfates: Alk-0-S(0)0- such as methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate; x) aryl sulfates: Ar-0-S(0)0- such as benzene sulfate and toluene sulfate; xi) alkoxy sulfates: Alk-0-S(0)20- such as methoxy sulfate and ethoxy sulfate; xii) aryloxy sulfates: Ar-0-S(0)20-, xiii) phosphates 0=P(0H)2-0-, 0=P(0-)2-0H 0=P(0-)3, H0-[P(0)(0-)]w-P(0)(0-)2 with w being an integer; xiv) acetate; xv) triflate; and xvi) borates such as tetrafluoroborate, xvii) disulfate (0=)2S(0-)2 or SO42- and monosulfate HSO4-.
A dye of formula (II)’ that is particularly preferred is HC Blue 16 (1-methylamino-4-(3'- dimethylpropylammoniumpropylamino)antraquinone bromide).
Preferably, the anthraquinone cationic direct dye(s) are chosen from HC Blue 16, le HC Blue 17, or mixtures thereof, more preferentially HC Blue 16.
According to another embodiment, the anthraquinone cationic direct dyes are chosen from the dyes of formula (III) in which:
- R1 and R2, which may be identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom, an optionally substituted (Ci-Ce)alkyl group; an optionally substituted (Ci-Ce)alkylene group, a halogen, a hydroxyl group or a (Ci-Ce)alkoxy group.
Preferably, in formula (III):
- R1 representing a hydrogen atom;
- R2 representing a (Ci-Ce)alkyl group substituted with a 5-, 6- or 7-membered heterocycle including at least one nitrogen atom, one oxygen atom or one sulfur atom.
More preferentially, in formula (III):
- R1 representing a hydrogen atom;
- R2 representing a (Ci-Ce)alkyl group substituted with a morpholinyl or alkylmorpholinyl group.
More preferentially, use will be made of the dyes of formula (III)’ below:
Figure imgf000008_0001
with Q- being an anionic counterion as defined previously, more particularly a halide such as bromide or chloride or an alkyl sulfate such as methyl sulfate or mesityl. Preferably, Q- is an alkyl sulfate, better still a methyl sulfate.
The dye corresponding to formula (III)’ is preferably 1-(N-methylmorpholiniumpropylamino)-4- hydroxyanthraquinone methyl sulfate.
According to a particular embodiment, the total amount of anthraquinone cationic synthetic direct dye(s) ranges from 0.01 % and 20% by weight, preferably between 0.05% and 15% by weight, better still 0.1 % to 13% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Aromatic compound of formula (I) The composition according to the invention comprises at least one compound of formula (I) in which Y represents a C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl group or a C1-C4 hydroxyalkyloxy radical, n denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 5, and X, which may be identical or different, represents a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a halogen.
Figure imgf000009_0001
Preferably, n is equal to 0. According to a particular embodiment, Y represents a hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl or hydroxyethyloxy radical.
As examples of compounds of formula (I), mention may be made of benzyl alcohol, phenylethanol and phenoxyethanol.
According to a particular embodiment, the compound of formula (I) is benzyl alcohol.
According to a particular embodiment, the total amount of aromatic compounds of formula (I) ranges between 0.1 % and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight and preferentially from 1 % to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
According to one embodiment, the dye composition according to the invention comprises:
- at least one natural dye chosen from lawsone, henna extracts and/or powders, Cassia angustifolia extracts and/or powders, indigo, indigo-producing plant extracts and/or powders, or mixtures thereof;
- at least one anthraquinone cationic synthetic direct dye;
- at least one aromatic compound of formula (I) chosen from benzyl alcohol, phenylethanol and phenoxyethanol, preferably benzyl alcohol.
According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises:
- at least one natural dye chosen from lawsone, henna extracts and/or powders, Cassia angustifolia extracts and/or powders, indigo, indigo-producing plant extracts and/or powders, or mixtures thereof;
- at least one anthraquinone cationic synthetic direct dye chosen from the dyes of formula (II), or mixtures thereof;
- at least one compound of formula (I), chosen from benzyl alcohol, phenylethanol and
phenoxyethanol, or mixtures thereof, preferably benzyl alcohol.
According to this particular embodiment, the total amount of natural dye(s) chosen from lawsone, henna extracts and/or powders, Cassia angustifolia extracts and/or powders, indigo, indigo-producing plant extracts and/or powders, or mixtures thereof, preferably ranges from 60% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; the amount of anthraquinone cationic synthetic direct dye(s) chosen from the dyes of formula (II) ranges from 0.1 % to 13% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; the amount of compound(s) of formula (I) chosen from benzyl alcohol, phenylethanol and phenoxyethanol, or mixtures thereof, ranges from 1 % to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises:
- at least one natural dye chosen from lawsone, henna extracts and/or powders, Cassia angustifolia extracts and/or powders, indigo, indigo-producing plant extracts and/or powders, or mixtures thereof;
- at least one anthraquinone cationic synthetic direct dye chosen from HC Blue 16;
- at least benzyl alcohol.
According to this preferred embodiment, the total amount of lawsone, of henna extracts and/or powders, of Cassia angustifolia extracts and/or powders, of indigo, of indigo-producing plant extracts and/or powders, or of mixtures thereof, preferably ranges from 60% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; the total amount of HC Blue 16 ranges from 0.1 % and 13% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; the amount of benzyl alcohol ranges between 1 % and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Additional synthetic direct dyes
According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention may comprise one or more synthetic direct dyes which are different from the anthraquinone cationic dyes described previously. These direct dyes are, for example, chosen from the dyes conventionally used for direct dyeing, and among which mention may be made of all the aromatic and/or nonaromatic dyes commonly used, such as azo direct dyes, hydrazono direct dyes, nitro(hetero)aryl direct dyes, tri(hetero)arylmethane direct dyes, (poly)methine direct dyes such as cyanines or hemicyanines, styryl direct dyes, carbonyl direct dyes, azine direct dyes, porphyrin direct dyes, metalloporphyrin direct dyes, quinone direct dyes and in particular anthraquinone direct dyes which are different from those described previously, indoamine direct dyes, phthalocyanine direct dyes, and fluorescent dyes.
Among the azo dyes that may be mentioned are: Basic Red 51 , Basic Orange 31.
Among the hydrazono dyes that may be mentioned are Basic Yellow 87 or derivatives thereof.
Among the nitroaryl dyes that may be mentioned are: HC Blue 2, HC Yellow 2, HC Red 3, 4- hydroxypropylamino-3-nitrophenol, A/,A/'-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)-2-nitro-phenylenediamine. Preferably, the nitroaryl dye that is useful according to the invention is HC Blue 2.
Among the triarylmethane dyes that may be mentioned are: Basic Violet 1 , Basic Violet 2, Basic Violet
3, Basic Violet 4, Basic Violet 14, Basic Blue 1 , Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic Green 1 , Basic Blue 77 (also known as HC Blue 15), Acid Blue 1 ; Acid Blue 3; Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 9; Acid Violet 49; Acid Green 3; Acid Green 5; Acid Green 50. Preferably, the triarylmethane dye(s) that are useful according to the invention are chosen from HC Blue 15 and Basic Violet 2, and mixtures thereof. Among the quinone direct dyes, different from the cationic anthraquinone dyes, that may be mentioned are: Disperse Red 15, Solvent Violet 13, Acid Violet 43, Disperse Violet 1 , Disperse Violet
4, Disperse Blue 1 , Disperse Violet 8, Disperse Blue 3, Disperse Red 1 1 , Acid Blue 62, Disperse Blue 7, Disperse Violet 15, Basic Blue 99, 1-aminopropylamino-4-methylaminoanthraquinone, 1- aminopropylaminoanthraquinone, d-b-hyclroxyethyl-l ,4-diaminoanthraquinone, 2- aminoethylaminoanthraquinone, 1 ,4-bis(P,Y-dihydroxypropylamino)anthraquinone, Acid Blue 25, Acid Blue 43, Acid Blue 78, Acid Blue 129, Acid Blue 138, Acid Blue 140, Acid Blue 251 , Acid Green 25, Acid Green 41 , Acid Violet 42, Mordant Red 3, Acid Black 48.
- Among the azine dyes that may be mentioned are: Basic Blue 17, Basic Red 2.
- Among the indoamine dyes that may be mentioned are: 2-P-hydroxyethlyamino-5-[bis(P-4'- hydroxyethyl)amino]anilino-1 ,4-benzoquinone, 2-P-hydroxyethylamino-5-(2'-methoxy-4'-amino)anilino- 1 ,4-benzoquinone, 3-N-(2'-chloro-4'-hydroxy)phenylacetylamino-6-methoxy-1 ,4-benzoquinoneimine, 3- N-(3'-chloro-4'-methylamino)phenylureido-6-methyl-1 ,4-benzoquinoneimine, 3-[4'-N- (ethylcarbamylmethyl)amino]phenylureido-6-methyl-1 ,4-benzoquinoneimine.
According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the additional synthetic direct dye(s) are chosen from hydrazono, azo, nitro(hetero)aryl and tri(hetero)arylmethane dyes, or mixtures thereof. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the additional synthetic direct dye(s) are chosen from Basic Red 51 , Basic Orange 31 , Basic Yellow 87, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 15 and Basic Violet 2, or mixtures thereof.
According to a particular embodiment, the total amount of additional synthetic direct dye(s) ranges from 0.01 % to 15% by weight, preferably 0.05% to 13% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
According to one embodiment, the dye composition according to the invention comprises:
- at least one natural dye chosen from lawsone, henna extracts and/or powders, Cassia angustifolia extracts and/or powders, indigo, indigo-producing plant extracts and/or powders, or mixtures thereof;
- at least one anthraquinone cationic synthetic direct dye;
- at least one aromatic compound of formula (I) chosen from benzyl alcohol, phenylethanol and phenoxyethanol, preferably benzyl alcohol;
- at least one additional synthetic direct dye different from the anthraquinone cationic synthetic direct dyes.
According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises:
- at least one natural dye chosen from lawsone, henna extracts and/or powders, Cassia angustifolia extracts and/or powders, indigo, indigo-producing plant extracts and/or powders, or mixtures thereof;
- at least one anthraquinone cationic synthetic direct dye chosen from the dyes of formula (II), or mixtures thereof;
- at least one compound of formula (I), chosen from benzyl alcohol, phenylethanol and
phenoxyethanol, or mixtures thereof, preferably benzyl alcohol;
- at least one additional synthetic direct dye chosen from hydrazono, azo, nitro(hetero)aryl and tri(hetero)arylmethane dyes, or mixtures thereof. According to this particular embodiment, the total amount of natural dye(s) chosen from lawsone, henna extracts and/or powders, Cassia angustifolia extracts and/or powders, indigo, indigo-producing plant extracts and/or powders, or mixtures thereof, preferably ranges from 60% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; the amount of anthraquinone cationic synthetic direct dye(s) chosen from the dyes of formula (II), or mixtures thereof, ranges from 0.1 % to 13% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; the amount of compound(s) of formula (I) chosen from benzyl alcohol, phenylethanol and phenoxyethanol, or mixtures thereof, ranges from 1 % to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; the amount of additional synthetic direct dye(s) chosen from hydrazono, azo, nitro(hetero)aryl and tri(hetero)arylmethane dyes, or mixtures thereof, ranges from 0.05% to 13% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises:
- at least one natural dye chosen from lawsone, henna extracts and/or powders, Cassia angustifolia extracts and/or powders, indigo, indigo-producing plant extracts and/or powders, or mixtures thereof;
- at least one anthraquinone cationic synthetic direct dye chosen from HC Blue 16;
- at least benzyl alcohol;
- at least one additional synthetic direct dye chosen from Basic Red 51 , Basic Orange 31 , Basic Yellow 87, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 15 and Basic Violet 2, or mixtures thereof.
According to this preferred embodiment, the total amount of lawsone, henna extracts and/or powders, extracts and/or powders of Cassia angustifolia, indigo, indigo-producing plant extracts and/or powders, or mixtures thereof, preferably ranges from 60% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; the total amount of HC Blue 16 ranges from 0.1 % and 13% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; the amount of benzyl alcohol ranges between 1 % to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, the total amount of Basic Red 51 , Basic Orange 31 , Basic Yellow 87, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 15, Basic Violet 2, or mixtures thereof, ranges from 0.05% to 13% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Oil(s)
The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more oils.
For the purposes of the invention, the term“oif’ means a“fatty substance" that is liquid at a temperature of 30°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). The viscosity at 25°C is preferably less than 1200 cps and better still less than 500 cps (defined, for example, from the Newtonian plateau determined using an ARG2 rheometer from TA Instruments equipped with a spindle with cone-plate geometry 60 mm in diameter and with an angle of 2 degrees over a shear stress range of from 0.1 Pa to 100 Pa).
The term“fatty substance" means an organic compound that is insoluble in water at ordinary temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) (solubility of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 1 % by weight and even more preferentially less than 0.1 % by weight). They generally have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon-based chain including at least 6 carbon atoms. In addition, the fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for instance chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), liquid petroleum jelly or
decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.
The term“nonsilicone oil or fatty substance" refers to an oil or a fatty substance not containing any Si- O bonds and the term“silicone oil or fatty substance" refers to an oil or a fatty substance containing at least one Si-O bond.
More particularly, the oils that are useful according to the invention are chosen from nonsilicone oils and in particular C6-C16 hydrocarbons or hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms and in particular alkanes; triglyceride oils of plant origin; essential oils; glycerides of synthetic origin, fatty alcohols; fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters other than triglycerides.
Preferably, the oils that are useful according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated or
(poly)glycerolated ethers.
Preferably, the oils that are useful according to the invention are not fatty acids in salified form giving water-soluble soaps.
It is recalled that, for the purposes of the invention, fatty alcohols, esters and acids more particularly bear at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally substituted, in particular with one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
As regards the C6-C16 liquid hydrocarbons, they are linear, branched or optionally cyclic, and are preferably alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane or isoparaffins, such as isohexadecane or isodecane, or mixtures thereof. The linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin comprising more than 16 carbon atoms are preferably chosen from liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes and hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®, or mixtures thereof.
Among the triglycerides of plant or synthetic origin, mention may be made of liquid fatty acid triglycerides including from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, sunflower oil, castor oil, avocado oil, coconut oil, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company Stearinerie Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea butter oil.
The liquid fatty alcohols that are suitable for use in the invention are more particularly chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alcohols including from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Examples that may be mentioned include octyldodecanol, 2- butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, ricinoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol and linoleyl alcohol, or mixtures thereof.
As regards the liquid esters of fatty acids and/or of fatty alcohols other than the triglycerides mentioned above, mention may be made notably of esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear C3-C29 or branched C4-C30 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear C3-C29 or branched C4-C30 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total carbon number of the esters being greater than or equal to 6 and more advantageously greater than or equal to 10. Esters of a fatty acid and/or of a fatty alcohol, for instance Purcellin oil (stearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate or 2-octyldodecyl myristate or lactate, may be used.
Among the essential oils contained in the composition of the invention, mention may be made of those mentioned in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry (“Flavors and Fragrances" , Karl-Georg Fahlbusch et al., Published Online: 15 JAN 2003, DOI: 10.1002/14356007.a1 1_141 ).
According to a preferred variant of the invention, the oil(s) are chosen from C6-C16 alkanes, polydecenes, liquid esters of a fatty acid and/or of a fatty alcohol, in particular triglycerides of plant or synthetic origin, and liquid fatty alcohols, or mixtures thereof. Better still, the fatty substance is chosen from liquid esters of a fatty acid and/or of a fatty alcohol, triglycerides of plant or synthetic origin, or mixtures thereof; more preferentially from triglycerides of plant or synthetic origin.
According to another most particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the oils are chosen from oils of natural origin, more particularly oils of plant origin, preferentially jojoba oil, babassu oil, sunflower oil, olive oil, coconut oil, Brazil nut oil, marula oil, com oil, argan oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, linseed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, coriander oil, castor oil, avocado oil, shea butter oil and also rapeseed oil, borage oil, evening primrose oil, pomegranate oil, mango oil, palm oil and cottonseed oil, or mixtures thereof.
More particularly, the oils of plant origin are chosen from avocado oil, olive oil, coconut oil, argan oil and sunflower oil, or mixtures thereof, better still from coconut oil.
The coconut oil having the INCI name Cocos nucifera (coconut) oil will be preferably used.
According to a particular embodiment, the total amount of oil(s) ranges from 0.1 % to 20% by weight, more particularly from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferentially from 1 % to 10% by weight, better still from 1.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more oils, more preferentially one or more plant oils.
According to one embodiment, the dye composition according to the invention comprises: - at least one natural dye chosen from lawsone, henna extracts and/or powders, Cassia angustifolia extracts and/or powders, indigo, indigo-producing plant extracts and/or powders, or mixtures thereof;
- at least one anthraquinone cationic synthetic direct dye;
- at least one aromatic compound of formula (I) chosen from benzyl alcohol, phenylethanol and phenoxyethanol, preferably benzyl alcohol;
- at least one oil.
According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises:
- at least one natural dye chosen from lawsone, henna extracts and/or powders, Cassia angustifolia extracts and/or powders, indigo, indigo-producing plant extracts and/or powders, or mixtures thereof;
- at least one anthraquinone cationic synthetic direct dye chosen from the dyes of formula (II), or mixtures thereof;
- at least one compound of formula (I), chosen from benzyl alcohol, phenylethanol and
phenoxyethanol, or mixtures thereof, preferably benzyl alcohol;
- at least one oil chosen from plant oils, better still from jojoba oil, babassu oil, sunflower oil, olive oil, coconut oil, Brazil nut oil, marula oil, corn oil, argan oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, linseed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, coriander oil, castor oil, avocado oil, shea butter oil and also rapeseed oil, borage oil, evening primrose oil, pomegranate oil, mango oil, palm oil and cottonseed oil, or mixtures thereof.
According to this particular embodiment, the total amount of natural dye(s) chosen from lawsone, henna extracts and/or powders, Cassia angustifolia extracts and/or powders, indigo, indigo-producing plant extracts and/or powders, or mixtures thereof, preferably ranges from 60% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; the total amount of anthraquinone cationic synthetic direct dye(s) chosen from the dyes of formula (II), or mixtures thereof, ranges from 0.1 % and 13% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; the total amount of compound(s) of formula (I) chosen from benzyl alcohol, phenylethanol and phenoxyethanol, or mixtures thereof, ranges from 1 % to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; the total amount of oil(s) chosen from plant oils ranges from 1.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises:
- at least one natural dye chosen from lawsone, henna extracts and/or powders, Cassia angustifolia extracts and/or powders, indigo, indigo-producing plant extracts and/or powders, or mixtures thereof;
- at least one anthraquinone cationic synthetic direct dye chosen from HC Blue 16;
- at least benzyl alcohol;
- at least coconut oil.
According to this preferred embodiment, the total amount of lawsone, of henna extracts and/or powders, of Cassia angustifolia extracts and/or powders, of indigo, of indigo-producing plant extracts and/or powders, or of a mixture thereof, preferably ranges from 60% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; the amount of HC Blue 16 ranges from 0.1 % to 13% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; the amount of benzyl alcohol ranges from 1 % to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, the amount of coconut oil ranges from 1.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
(Poly)saccharide(s)
The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more (poly)saccharides.
The saccharides may be chosen from monosaccharides, oligosaccharides and polysaccharides.
In particular, the saccharides or reduced saccharides of the invention are solids, i.e. they are not liquids or syrups.
The term“ monosaccharide“ means a sugar comprising only one unit, i.e. which does not include any glycosidic covalent bond with another sugar.
Preferentially the“monosaccharides” of the invention are chosen from:
•“aldoses” or polyhydroxyaldehydes, preferably comprising between 4 and 6 carbon atoms, such as erythrose or threose (4 carbon atoms), ribose, arabinose, xylose or lyxose (5 carbon atoms), allose, altrose, glucose, mannose, gulose, idose, galactose and talose (6 carbon atoms);
•“ketoses” or polyhydroxyketones, preferably comprising between 4 and 6 carbon atoms, such as erythrulose (4 carbon atoms), ribulose or xylulose (5 carbon atoms), psicose, fructose, sorbose and tagatose (6 carbon atoms); and
• the reduced forms of the aldoses and ketoses as defined previously are also referred to as“sugar alcohols” or“alditols”. They are in particular chosen from erythritol, glucitol or sorbitol, mannitol and xylitol, preferably sorbitol.
The term“sugar alcohol’ means“polyols” generally obtained by reduction of the aldose or ketose monosaccharides as defined previously or of oligo- or polysaccharide complexes as defined below, in which the aldehyde or ketone group(s) of the monosaccharide units are reduced, i.e. replaced with a hydroxyl group.
Preferably, the sugars of the invention, and in particular the sugar alcohols according to the invention, are of plant origin.
It is understood that the terms aldoses, ketoses and sugar alcohols also refer to the optical isomers thereof, the anomers thereof and the L (levorotatory) and D (dextrorotatory) forms thereof.
More preferentially, the monosaccharides of the invention include 6 carbon atoms.
The term“oligosaccharide” means a sugar in which the monosaccharides as defined previously are linked via a glycosidic covalent bond, to give simple polymers comprising from 2 to 10
monosaccharide units.
In particular, the oligosaccharides are chosen from disaccharides, such as sucrose, trehalose and raffinose, lactose, cellobiose and maltose; cyclodextrins and reduced forms thereof, such as isomaltulose, trehalulose, isomalt, maltitol, and lactitol. It is understood that the term“oligosaccharides” also refers to the optical isomers thereof, the anomers thereof and the L (levorotatory) and D (dextrorotatory) forms thereof.
The term“polysaccharides” means oligosaccharides which contain at least 1 1 monosaccharide units. Preferentially, the polysaccharides of the invention include between 20 and 100 000 monosaccharide units.
The polysaccharides of the invention may be chosen from those derived from the following sugars: glucose; galactose; arabinose; rhamnose; mannose; xylose; fucose; anhydrogalactose; galacturonic acid; glucuronic acid; mannuronic acid; galactose sulfate; anhydrogalactose sulfate.
The polymers bearing sugar units of the invention may be natural or synthetic.
They may be nonionic, anionic, amphoteric or cationic.
According to a particular embodiment, the saccharides of the invention are chosen from native gums such as:
• tree or shrub exudates, for instance: acacia gum (branched polymer of galactose, arabinose, rhamnose and glucuronic); ghatti gum (polymer derived from arabinose, galactose, mannose, xylose and glucuronic acid); karaya gum (polymer derived from galacturonic acid, galactose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); gum tragacanth (polymer of galacturonic acid, galactose, fucose, xylose and arabinose);
• gums derived from algae, such as: agar (polymer derived from galactose and anhydrogalactose); alginates (polymers of mannuronic acid and glucuronic acid); carrageenans and furcellerans
(polymers of galactose sulfate and anhydrogalactose sulfate);
• gums derived from seeds or tubers, such as: guar gum (polymer of mannose and galactose); locust bean gum (polymer of mannose and galactose); fenugreek gum (polymer of mannose and galactose); tamarind gum (polymer of galactose, xylose and glucose); konjac gum (polymer of glucose and mannose);
• plant extracts, such as: cellulose (glucose polymer); and starch (glucose polymer);
• microbial gums, such as: xanthan gums (polymer of glucose, mannose acetate, mannose/pyruvic acid and glucuronic acid); gellan gums (polymer of partially acylated glucose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); scleroglucan gums (glucose polymer); pullulan gums, curdlar gums, grifolan gums, lentinan gums, schizophyllan gums, spirulinan gums and krestin gums.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term“microbial gums” means substances synthesized by fermentation of sugars by microorganisms.
According to a preferred embodiment, the polysaccharides that are useful according to the invention are chosen from gums, better still from microbial gums. Xanthan gums are preferentially used.
According to one embodiment, the total amount of (poly)saccharide ranges from 0.05% to 10%, preferably from 0.1 % to 5% and better still from 0.2% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. According to one embodiment, the dye composition according to the invention comprises:
- at least one natural dye chosen from lawsone, henna extracts and/or powders, Cassia angustifolia extracts and/or powders, indigo, indigo-producing plant extracts and/or powders, or mixtures thereof;
- at least one anthraquinone cationic synthetic direct dye;
- at least one aromatic compound of formula (I) chosen from benzyl alcohol, phenylethanol and phenoxyethanol, or mixtures thereof , preferably benzyl alcohol;
- at least (poly)saccharide.
According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises:
- at least one natural dye chosen from lawsone, henna extracts and/or powders, Cassia angustifolia extracts and/or powders, indigo, indigo-producing plant extracts and/or powders, or mixtures thereof;
- at least one anthraquinone cationic synthetic direct dye chosen from the dyes of formula (II), or mixtures thereof;
- at least one compound of formula (I), chosen from benzyl alcohol, phenylethanol and
phenoxyethanol, or mixtures thereof, preferably benzyl alcohol;
- at least one (poly)saccharide chosen from gums, better still from microbial gums, or mixtures thereof. According to this particular embodiment, the total amount of natural dye(s) chosen from lawsone, henna extracts and/or powders, Cassia angustifolia extracts and/or powders, indigo, indigo-producing plant extracts and/or powders, or mixtures thereof, preferably ranges from 60% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; the total amount of anthraquinone cationic synthetic direct dye(s) chosen from the dyes of formula (II), or mixtures thereof, ranges from 0.1 % to 13% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; the total amount of compound(s) of formula (I) chosen from benzyl alcohol, phenylethanol and phenoxyethanol, or mixtures thereof, ranges from 1 % to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; the total amount of (poly)saccharide(s) chosen from gums ranges from 0.2% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises:
- at least one natural dye chosen from lawsone, henna extracts and/or powders, Cassia angustifolia extracts and/or powders, indigo, indigo-producing plant extracts and/or powders, or mixtures thereof;
- at least one anthraquinone cationic synthetic direct dye chosen from HC Blue 16;
- at least benzyl alcohol;
- at least one (poly)saccharide chosen from xanthan gums.
According to this preferred embodiment, the total amount of lawsone, of henna extracts and/or powders, of Cassia angustifolia extracts and/or powders, of indigo, of indigo-producing plant extracts and/or powders, or of a mixture thereof, preferably ranges from 60% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; the total amount of HC Blue 16 ranges from 0.1 % to 13% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; the amount of benzyl alcohol ranges from 1 % to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, the total amount of xanthan gums, or mixtures thereof, ranges from 0.2% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
According to one embodiment, the dye composition according to the invention comprises:
- at least one natural dye chosen from lawsone, henna extracts and/or powders, Cassia angustifolia extracts and/or powders, indigo, indigo-producing plant extracts and/or powders, or mixtures thereof;
- at least one anthraquinone cationic synthetic direct dye;
- at least one aromatic compound of formula (I) chosen from benzyl alcohol, phenylethanol and phenoxyethanol, or mixtures thereof, preferably benzyl alcohol;
- at least one additional synthetic direct dye, and/or at least one oil, and/or at least one
(poly)saccharide.
According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises:
- at least one natural dye chosen from lawsone, henna extracts and/or powders, Cassia angustifolia extracts and/or powders, indigo, indigo-producing plant extracts and/or powders, or mixtures thereof;
- at least one anthraquinone cationic synthetic direct dye chosen from the dyes of formula (II) or mixtures thereof;
- at least one compound of formula (I), chosen from benzyl alcohol, phenylethanol and
phenoxyethanol, or mixtures thereof, preferably benzyl alcohol;
- at least one additional synthetic direct dye chosen from hydrazono, azo, nitro(hetero)aryl and tri(hetero)arylmethane dyes, or mixtures thereof, and/or at least one oil chosen from plant oils, better still from jojoba oil, babassu oil, sunflower oil, olive oil, coconut oil, Brazil nut oil, marula oil, corn oil, argan oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, linseed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, coriander oil, castor oil, avocado oil, shea butter oil and also rapeseed oil, borage oil, evening primrose oil, pomegranate oil, mango oil, palm oil, cottonseed oil, or mixtures thereof, and/or at least one (poly)saccharide chosen from gums, better still from microbial gums, or mixtures thereof.
According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises:
- at least one natural dye chosen from lawsone, henna extracts and/or powders, Cassia angustifolia extracts and/or powders, indigo, indigo-producing plant extracts and/or powders, or mixtures thereof;
- at least one anthraquinone cationic synthetic direct dye chosen from HC Blue 16;
- at least benzyl alcohol;
- at least one additional synthetic direct dye chosen from Basic Red 51 , Basic Orange 31 , Basic Yellow 87, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 15 and Basic Violet 2, or mixtures thereof, and/or at least coconut oil, and/or at least one (poly)saccharide chosen from xanthan gums.
Solvents)
The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one aliphatic organic solvent. According to one embodiment, the aliphatic organic solvent(s) are chosen from C2-C6 hydroxylated aliphatic solvents. The term“aliphatic” refers to a compound not containing any aromatic nuclei. The solvents of this type may be monoalcohols or polyalcohols that are liquid at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (105 Pa). Preferably, these solvents are nonetherified solvents.
According to a particular embodiment, these solvents are chosen from ethanol, glycerol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol and hexylene glycol. Preferably, the hydroxylated C2-C6 aliphatic solvent is ethanol and/or hexylene glycol, preferably ethanol.
According to one embodiment, the amount of hydroxylated aliphatic solvent ranges from 0.05% to 10%, preferably from 1 % to 8%, better still from 2% to 5%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Adjuvants)
The compositions of the dyeing process in accordance with the invention may also contain various adjuvants conventionally used in hair dye compositions, such as anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants or mixtures thereof, anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers other than the polysaccharides as described previously, or mixtures thereof, mineral or organic thickeners other than the polysaccharides as described previously, and in particular anionic, cationic, nonionic and amphoteric polymeric associative thickeners, antioxidants, penetrants, sequestrants, fragrances, buffers, dispersants, conditioning agents, for instance volatile or nonvolatile, modified or unmodified silicones, film-forming agents, ceramides, preserving agents and opacifiers.
The above adjuvants are generally present in an amount for each of them of between 0.01 % and 40% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, and preferably between 0.1 % and 20% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.
Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to select this or these additional compound(s) such that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the composition(s) that are useful in the dyeing process in accordance with the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisioned addition(s).
The composition according to the invention may be anhydrous or aqueous.
In one embodiment, the composition according to the invention is anhydrous. For the purposes of the present invention, the term“anhydrous” means that the composition comprises less than 5% by weight of water and preferably less than 2% by weight of water; better still, the composition is free of water. In particular, the composition is free of added water, the water optionally present being provided by the raw materials used.
In another embodiment, the composition according to the invention is aqueous. In this embodiment, the composition may result from the mixture of a composition (A) according to the invention, which is preferably anhydrous, with at least one composition (B) which is preferably aqueous. The cosmetic composition(s) used according to the process according to the invention may be in various presentation forms, such as a powder, a lotion, a mousse, a cream or a gel, or in any other form that is suitable for dyeing keratin fibers. They may also be packaged in a propellant-free pump- action bottle or under pressure in an aerosol container in the presence of a propellant and form a foam.
Dyeing process
The process for dyeing of human keratin fibers, notably the hair, according to the invention consists in applying to the fibers a composition comprising at least one natural dye;
at least one anthraquinone cationic synthetic direct dye; and
at least one aromatic compound of formula (I) to the dry or wet human keratin fibers, such as the hair. The composition applied may be obtained by extemporaneous mixing at the time of use of a composition (A) comprising at least one natural dye;
at least one anthraquinone cationic synthetic direct dye; and
at least one aromatic compound of formula (I), and at least one composition (B) which is preferably aqueous.
In a particular embodiment, composition (B) is water.
Preferably, composition (B) is used at a temperature of between 10°C and 100°C, better still between 40°C and 100°C.
The mixing ratio between composition (A) and composition (B) may range from 0.01 to 10, preferably from 0.1 to 5, preferentially from 0.2 to 1 , and better still from 0.25 to 0.5.
According to this embodiment, the mixing of compositions (A) and (B) is preferably performed less than 30 min before application, preferentially less than 15 min before application, better still less than 10 min before application, or even less than 5 min before application.
According to a particular embodiment, the applied composition contains at least one additional direct dye, at least one oil and/or one or more (poly)saccharides.
The composition is then left in place for a time usually ranging from 1 minute to 2 hours, preferably from 5 minutes to 1 hour 30 minutes and better still from 10 minutes to 1 hour.
Advantageously, after application of the dye composition, the hair may be subjected to a heat treatment. In practice, this operation may be performed using a hairstyling hood, a hairdryer, an infrared ray emitter or other standard heating appliances.
The temperature during the process is conventionally between room temperature (between 15 and 25°C) and 80°C and preferably between room temperature and 60°C.
After the treatment, the human keratin fibers are optionally rinsed with water, optionally washed with a shampoo and then rinsed with water, before being dried (mechanically with a towel, absorbent paper or heat) or left to dry. According to a second embodiment, the process as described above is preceded (i) by a step of applying a dye composition as described previously or a dye composition comprising a natural dye and free from synthetic direct dyes; (ii) by a rinsing step.
The examples that follow serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature.
Examples
Comparative tests 1
Compositions A and B were prepared. The proportions of the ingredients are indicated as grams of active material per 100 grams of composition.
Compositions according to the invention and comparative compositions:
[Table 1]
Figure imgf000022_0001
Composition B comprises a blue dye which is not an anthraquinone cationic synthetic direct dye but a nitrobenzene dye.
At the time of use, each of the dye compositions A and B is mixed with three times its own weight of water at 100°C.
Each of the mixtures is then applied to locks of natural hair containing 90% white hairs, at a rate of 10 g of mixture per 1 g of hair.
After leaving it on plates thermostatically maintained at 33°C for 30 minutes, the hair is rinsed and dried.
- Evaluation of the coloring
The coloring of the hair is evaluated in the L*a*b* system, using a Minolta CM 3600D
spectrocolorimeter (illuminant D65, angle 10°, specular component included).
In this system, L* represents the lightness. The smaller the value of L*, the darker and more powerful the coloring obtained. The chromaticity is measured by the values a* and b*, a* representing the red/green axis and b* the yellow/blue axis.
The color buildup is represented by the color difference DE between the undyed lock and the dyed lock: the greater the value of DE, the greater the color buildup. This value is calculated from the following equation (i): D E = V(L* - L0 *)2 + (a* - a„ *)2 + (b* - b_ *)2 (i)
In the equation (i), L*, a* and b* represent the values measured on locks of undyed hair and Lo*, ao* and bo* represent the values measured on locks of dyed hair.
Dyeing results
The colorimetric values and the color buildup DE are listed in the table below:
Better color buildup and a more powerful coloring relative to the comparative composition were obtained on the locks of hair treated using the composition according to the invention, which is confirmed by the colorimetric measurements below.
[Table 2]
Figure imgf000023_0001
The above results show that better color buildup and more powerful coloring were obtained using composition A according to the invention, relative to comparative composition B.

Claims

Claims
[Claim 1] A composition for dyeing human keratin fibers, preferably the hair, comprising at least one natural dye, at least one anthraquinone cationic synthetic direct dye and at least one aromatic compound of formula (I),
Figure imgf000024_0001
in which Y represents a C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl group or a C1-C4 hydroxyalkyloxy radical, n represents an integer ranging from 0 to 5, and X, which may be identical or different, represents a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a halogen.
[Claim 2] The composition as claimed in claim 1 , in which the natural dye(s) are chosen from lawsone, henna extracts and/or powders, Cassia angustifolia extracts and/or powders, indigo, indigo-producing plant extracts and/or powders, or mixtures thereof.
[Claim 3] The composition as claimed in the preceding claim 1 or 2, in which the total amount of natural dye(s) ranges from 40% to 98% by weight, preferably from 50% to 95% by weight, better still from 60% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[Claim 4] The composition as claimed in any of the preceding claims, in which the anthraquinone cationic direct dye(s) are chosen from the cationic dyes of formula (II) below
Figure imgf000024_0002
in which :
- R1, R2 and R3, which may be identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or an optionally substituted (Ci-C8)alkyl group;
- R4 representing a hydrogen atom or an optionally substituted (Ci-C8)alkyl group;
- R5 representing a hydrogen atom, an optionally substituted (Ci-C8)alkyl group, an optionally substituted (Ci-C8)alkylene group, a halogen, a hydroxyl group or a (Ci-C8)alkoxy group
- n representing a number between 1 and 8;
- Q- represents an organic or mineral anionic counterion, such as a halide or an alkyl sulfate.
[Claim 5] The composition as claimed in any of the preceding claims, in which the anthraquinone cationic direct dye(s) are chosen from HC Blue 16 and HC Blue 17, or mixtures thereof, better still from HC Blue 16.
[Claim 6] The composition as claimed in any of the preceding claims, in which the total amount of anthraquinone cationic synthetic direct dye(s) ranges from 0.01 % to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 15% by weight, better still from 0.1 % to 13% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[Claim 7] The composition as claimed in any of the preceding claims, in which the compound(s) of formula (I) are chosen from benzyl alcohol, phenylethanol and phenoxyethanol, or mixtures thereof, preferably benzyl alcohol.
[Claim 8] The composition as claimed in any of the preceding claims, in which the total amount of compounds of formula (I) ranges between 0.1 % and 20% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferentially from 1 % to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[Claim 9] The composition as claimed in any of the preceding claims, comprising one or more additional synthetic direct dyes, preferably chosen from azo, hydrazono, nitro(hetero)aryl and tri(aryl)methane dyes, better still from Basic Red 51 , Basic Orange 31 , Basic Yellow 87, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 15 and Basic Violet 2, or mixtures thereof.
[Claim 10] The composition as claimed in any of the preceding claims, in which the total amount of additional synthetic direct dye(s) ranges from 0.01 % to 13% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[Claim 11] The composition as claimed in any of the preceding claims, comprising one or more oils, preferably chosen from avocado oil, olive oil, coconut oil, argan oil and sunflower oil, or mixtures thereof, better still coconut oil.
[Claim 12] The composition as claimed in any of the preceding claims, in which the total amount of oil(s) ranges from 0.1 % to 20% by weight, more particularly from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferentially from 1 % and 10% by weight, better still from 1.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[Claim 13] The composition as claimed in any of the preceding claims, comprising one or more (poly)saccharides, preferably chosen from gums, preferably from microbial gums, better still from xanthan gums.
[Claim 14] The composition as claimed in any of the preceding claims, in which the total amount of (poly)saccharide(s) ranges from 0.05% to 10 %, preferably from 0.1 % to 5%, better still from 0.2% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[Claim 15] A process for dyeing human keratin fibers, preferably the hair, characterized in that the composition as claimed in any of claims 1 to 14 is applied to the hair.
[Claim 16] A process for dyeing human keratin fibers, preferably the hair, characterized in that a composition resulting from the extemporaneous mixing at the time of use of a composition (A) as claimed in any of claims 1 to 14, with at least one composition (B), which is preferably aqueous, the mixing ratio between composition (A) and composition (B) preferably ranging from 0.01 to 10, preferably from 0.1 to 5, preferentially from 0.2 to 1 , better still from 0.25 to 0.5, is applied.
PCT/EP2020/068841 2019-07-05 2020-07-03 Composition comprising a natural dye, an anthraquinone cationic direct dye and an aromatic compound WO2021004945A1 (en)

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FR1907543A FR3098118B1 (en) 2019-07-05 2019-07-05 A composition comprising a natural dye, an anthraquinone cationic direct dye and an aromatic compound
FRFR1907543 2019-07-05

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Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE19735851A1 (en) * 1997-08-19 1999-02-25 Goldwell Gmbh Hair color and toner based on direct cationic dye avoiding damage to hair
WO2013083699A1 (en) * 2011-12-09 2013-06-13 L'oreal Composition based on a powder of indigo-yielding plant(s) and on oil(s) and/or butter(s), and hair dyeing process using this composition
FR3075637A1 (en) * 2017-12-22 2019-06-28 L'oreal HAIR COLORING PROCESS COMPRISING A COLORING STEP WITH HENNE AND / OR INDIGO AND A PROCESSING STEP COMPRISING THE APPLICATION OF AQUEOUS PHASE, A FATTY PHASE AND A DIRECT COLOR

Patent Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE19735851A1 (en) * 1997-08-19 1999-02-25 Goldwell Gmbh Hair color and toner based on direct cationic dye avoiding damage to hair
WO2013083699A1 (en) * 2011-12-09 2013-06-13 L'oreal Composition based on a powder of indigo-yielding plant(s) and on oil(s) and/or butter(s), and hair dyeing process using this composition
FR3075637A1 (en) * 2017-12-22 2019-06-28 L'oreal HAIR COLORING PROCESS COMPRISING A COLORING STEP WITH HENNE AND / OR INDIGO AND A PROCESSING STEP COMPRISING THE APPLICATION OF AQUEOUS PHASE, A FATTY PHASE AND A DIRECT COLOR

Non-Patent Citations (2)

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Title
DATABASE GNPD [online] MINTEL; 13 August 2019 (2019-08-13), ANONYMOUS: "Washout Toning Gel", XP055661691, retrieved from www.gnpd.com Database accession no. 6784781 *
KARL-GEORG FAHLBUSCH ET AL.: "Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry", 15 January 2003, article "Flavors and Fragrances"

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