WO2020260163A1

WO2020260163A1 - Cosmetic use of at least one microorganism from the species brevibacterium epidermidis, of a fraction thereof and/or of a metabolite thereof, and/or of at least one growth-inducing agent for said microorganism, as a depolluting agent

Info

Publication number: WO2020260163A1
Application number: PCT/EP2020/067204
Authority: WO
Inventors: Emilie ADELIN; Maude BROSSAT
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2019-06-24
Filing date: 2020-06-19
Publication date: 2020-12-30
Also published as: FR3097440B1; FR3097440A1

Abstract

The present invention relates to the cosmetic use, in particular in topical application, of at least one microorganism from the species Brevibacterium epidermidis, of a fraction thereof and/or of a metabolite thereofand/or of at least one growth-inducing agent for said microorganism, as a depolluting agent. The invention also relates to a depolluting cosmetic composition, in particular for topical application, containing, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one microorganism from the species Brevibacterium epidermidis, a fraction thereof and/or a metabolite thereof; and also to a cosmetic treatment process directed towards protecting keratin materials against the harmful effects of pollution.

Description

Title: Cosmetic use of at least one microorganism from the species Brevibacterium epidermidis, of a fraction thereof and/or of a metabolite thereof, and/or of at least one growth-inducing agent for said microorganism, as a depolluting agent

[0001 ] The present invention relates to the cosmetic use, in particular in topical

application, of at least one microorganism from the species Brevibacterium epidermidis, of a fraction thereof and/or of a metabolite thereof and/or of at least one growth-inducing agent for said microorganism as a depolluting agent.

[0002] The invention also relates to a depolluting cosmetic composition, in particular for topical application, containing, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one microorganism from the species Brevibacterium epidermidis, a fraction thereof and/or a metabolite thereof; and also to a cosmetic treatment process directed towards protecting keratin materials against the harmful effects of pollution.

[0003] Human skin hosts a wide variety of commensal bacteria, fungi, viruses and parasites, which together make up the skin microbiome.

[0004] This skin microbiome is essential for the health of the skin, since it has been shown that its imbalance can notably result in skin disorders (K. R. Chang et al. , Whole metagenome profiling reveals skin microbiome-dependent susceptibility to atopic dermatitis flare. Nat. Microbiol. 1 , 161 (2016); T. Park et al., Collapse of human scalp microbiome network in dandruff and seborrheic dermatitis. Exp. Dermatol. 26, 835-838 (2017); A. Tett et al., Unexplored diversity and strain-level structure of the skin microbiome associated with psoriasis. Npj Biofilms

Microbiomes. 3, 14 (2017)).

[0005] Recent developments have made it possible to demonstrate the impact of physiological, anthropogenic and environmental factors on this community of microorganisms (J. Oh, A. L. Byrd, M. Park, H. H. Kong, J. A. Segre, Temporal stability of the human skin microbiome. 165, 854-866 (2016); M. H. Y. Leung, K. C. K. Chan, P. K. H. Lee, Skin fungal community and its correlation with bacterial community of urban Chinese individuals. Microbiome. 4, 46 (2016); J. C.

Clemente et al. , The microbiome of uncontacted Amerindians. Sci. Adv. 1 , e1500183 (2015)).

[0006] Among these environmental factors, air pollution has now become a source of concern worldwide.

[0007] Specifically, pollution peaks regularly occur in urban areas. The keratin

materials, and notably of the skin, the scalp and the hair, of an individual in his or her daily environment, and particularly in urban areas, may be subject to multiple attacking factors by various air pollutants. Atmospheric pollutants, which are largely represented by primary and secondary combustion products, are an important source of environmental oxidative stress. Urban pollution consists of various types of chemical products, xenobiotics and particles. The main

categories of pollutants which may have harmful effects on the skin and the hair are the following: gases, heavy metals, polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs) and particulate elements which are combustion residues on which a great number of organic and inorganic compounds are adsorbed.

[0008] Among the constituents of harmful air pollution, chronic exposure to polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs), a class of air pollutants linked to fine particles, may in particular result in premature skin ageing and also in pigmentation disorders such as pigmentation spots or actinic lentigo, dermatological disorders such as acne (F. Flament, N. Bourokba, S. Nouveau, J. Li, A. Charbonneau, A severe chronic outdoor urban pollution alters some facial aging signs in Chinese women. A tale of two cities. Int. J. Cosmet. Sci. 40, 467-481 (2018); P. Puri, S. K. Nandar, S. Kathuria, V. Ramesh, Effects of air pollution on the skin: a review. Indian J. Dermatol. Venereol. Leprol. 83, 415 (2017)).

[0009] Recently, it has been shown that commensal skin bacteria such as

Micrococcus luteus and Paracoccus yeei are capable of degrading various PAHs and other xenobiotics (J. Sowada, A. Schmalenberger, I. Ebner, A. Luch, T.

Tralau, Degradation of benzo[a]pyrene by bacterial isolates from human skin. FEMS Microbiol. Ecol. 88, 129-139 (2014); J. Sowada et al., Toxification of polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons by commensal bacteria from human skin. Arch. Toxicol. 91 , 2331-2341 (2017)). [0010] Such results show the role of the skin microbiome in protecting the skin against air pollution, and its harmful effects on the skin.

[0011 ] Thus, with the increasing rise in air pollution and the exposure to this

pollution, there is still a need to find other agents for efficiently combating the harmful effects of pollutants on keratin materials and for promoting their metabolism by commensal bacteria which are present on keratin materials, notably for avoiding the premature ageing of keratin materials and notably of the skin, and also for combating dull complexion, pigmentation spots or actinic lentigo, and the premature formation of wrinkles or fine lines on the skin, or for avoiding the dull-looking appearance of the hair.

[0012] The Applicant has now found, entirely surprisingly, that the use of one or more microorganisms from the species Brevibacterium epidermidis, of a fraction thereof and/or of a metabolite thereof, and/or of a growth-inducing agent for said microorganism, makes it possible to protect keratin materials from pollutant effects and notably from polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs), in particular by promoting the degradation thereof.

[0013] Admittedly, it is known practice to use microorganisms from the genus

Brevibacterium for depolluting soils, and notably the species Brevibacterium frigoritolerans and Brevibacterium casei (Verma T, Singh N Isolation and process parameter optimization of Brevibacterium casei for simultaneous bioremediation of hexavalent chromium and pentachlorophenol. J. Basic Microbiol. 53, 277- 290(2013)). However, no document describes that microorganisms from the species Brevibacterium epidermidis may have depolluting and even less so protective properties on keratin materials against the effects of pollution.

Moreover, the species belonging to the genus Brevibacterium do not all show depolluting activity, in particular activity in degrading PAHs, as shown by

Comparative Example 1 of the present patent application.

[0014] A subject of the invention is thus the cosmetic use of at least one

microorganism from the species Brevibacterium epidermidis, of a fraction thereof and/or of a metabolite thereof, and/or of at least one growth-inducing agent for said microorganism as a depolluting agent, notably in a composition for topical application to keratin materials. [0015] A subject of the invention is also the use of at least one microorganism from the species Brevi bacterium epidermidis, of a fraction thereof and/or of a metabolite thereof, and/or of at least one growth-inducing agent for said microorganism, for protecting keratin materials against the harmful effects of pollution, notably particulate pollution, in particular pollution linked to polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs).

[0016] The present invention also relates to a depolluting cosmetic composition, in particular for topical application, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one microorganism from the species Brevibacterium

epidermidis, a fraction thereof and/or a metabolite thereof.

[0017] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process comprising the application to keratin materials of a cosmetic composition comprising at least one microorganism from the species Brevibacterium epidermidis, a fraction thereof and/or a metabolite thereof and/or at least one growth-inducing agent for said microorganism, for protecting said keratin materials against the harmful effects of pollution.

[0018] For the purposes of the present invention, the term“harmful effects of

pollution” means skin ageing, notably wrinkles, fine lines, loss of elasticity of the skin, loss of firmness of the skin, a dull complexion, pigmentation spots or actinic lentigo, dull hair.

[0019] The term“depolluting agent” or“antipollution agent” means an agent which protects the skin and keratin materials so as to prevent, relieve and/or suppress the deleterious effects of pollutants (e.g. PAHs, heavy metals, etc.) notably those adsorbed onto particles. Preferably, the pollutants are chosen from polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs).

[0020] For the purposes of the present invention, the pollutants are in particular

polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs), preferably those chosen from naphthalene, acenaphthene, acenaphthylene, 1 -naphthylacetic acid, phthalic acid, bromomethylnaphthalene, fluorene, phenanthrene, anthracene,

fluoranthrene, pyrene, benzo[a]pyrene, chrysene, benzo[b]fluoranthene, benzo[k]fluoranthene, benzo[a]pyrene, benzo[e]pyrene, indeno[1 ,2,3-cd]pyrene, benzo[g/7/]perylene, dibenzo[a,/?]anthracene, and mixtures thereof. [0021 ] In a preferred embodiment, the polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs) are chosen from acenaphthene, 1 -naphthylacetic acid, phthalic acid, bromomethyl- naphthalene, fluorene, anthracene, fluoranthrene, benzo[a]pyrene, pyrene, phenanthrene, and mixtures thereof.

[0022] In the context of the present invention, the term“keratin material” means

human keratin materials, in particular the skin, the scalp, the hair, the eyelashes, and the eyebrows.

[0023] The term“topical application” means herein an external application to keratin materials, which are notably the skin, the scalp, the eyelashes, the eyebrows, and generally any skin tissue. The composition used according to the invention is intended for topical application and thus contains a physiologically acceptable medium, i.e. a medium that is compatible with skin tissues such as the skin, the scalp, the eyelashes and the eyebrows. The composition may thus be applied on the entire human body.

Detailed description of the invention

[0024] Microorganism from the species Brevibacterium epidermidis

[0025] A microorganism which is suitable for use in the invention is in particular a probiotic microorganism from the species Brevibacterium epidermidis.

[0026] For the purposes of the present invention, the term“probiotic microorganism” means a live microorganism which, when consumed in adequate amount, has a positive effect on the health of its host {“Joint F AO/WHO Expert Consultation on Evaluation of Health and Nutritional Properties of Probiotic in Food Including Powder Milk with Live Lactic Acid Bacteria, 6 October 2001”), and which may in particular improve the intestinal microbial balance.

[0027] In the case of the skin, a microorganism which, when applied in an

appropriate amount, has a positive effect on the health of the skin and the mucous membranes, will be taken into consideration.

[0028] For the purposes of the invention, the term“metabolite” denotes any

substance derived from the metabolism of the microorganisms considered according to the invention and also having efficiency for degrading pollutants, in particular polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs) and/or for protecting keratin materials against the harmful effects of pollution.

[0029] For the purposes of the invention, the term“fraction” more particularly denotes a fragment of said microorganism such as the cytosol or membrane fractions, having efficiency for degrading pollutants, in particular polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs) and/or for protecting keratin materials against the harmful effects of pollution, by analogy with said whole microorganism.

[0030] Brevibacterium epidermidis is a Gram-positive bacterium of the genus

Brevibacterium, belonging to the family Brevibacteriaceae, and to the order of Actinomycetales.

[0031 ] The Brevibacterium epidermidis strain according to the invention is a strain which is naturally present on the surface of human skin; preferably, the

Brevibacterium epidermidis strain used in the context of the present invention is the Brevibacterium epidermidis strain isolated from human skin, deposited with the Leibniz Institute DSMZ-German collection of microorganisms and cell cultures under the access number DSM 20660, before 22/08/1990.

[0032] A microorganism of the invention may be formulated in a composition in a proportion of at least 0.0001 % (expressed as dry weight), in particular in a proportion from 0.0001 % to 30% and more particularly in a proportion from 0.001 % to 15% by weight, in particular from 0.01 % to 10% by weight and notably from 0.1 % to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0033] A composition for topical application according to the invention may generally comprise from 10³ to 10¹² cfu/g, in particular from 10⁵ to 10¹⁰ cfu/g and more particularly from 10⁷ to 10⁹ cfu/g of microorganisms.

[0034] When a composition comprises metabolites, the contents of metabolites in the compositions correspond substantially to the contents that may be produced by 10³ to 10¹⁵ cfu, in particular 10⁵ to 10¹⁵ cfu and more particularly 10⁷ to 10¹² cfu of live microorganisms per gram of support.

[0035] The microorganism(s) may be included in a composition according to the

invention in a live, semi-active or inactivated form. [0036] It (they) may also be included in the form of fractions of cell components or in the form of metabolites. The microorganism(s), metabolite(s) or fraction(s) may also be introduced in the form of a freeze-dried powder, a culture supernatant and/or, where appropriate, in a concentrated form.

[0037] According to a first embodiment of the invention, these microorganisms are used in a live or revivable form; in particular, the Brevi bacterium epidermidis bacteria are in the form of a lyophilizate, said lyophilizate in particular being obtained by freeze-drying the biomass.

[0038] This freeze-drying process takes place in particular in two steps: a step of freezing at -20°C and then a step of desiccation in a freeze-dryer (-74°C) under vacuum with a pressure of between 5 and 50 Pa, preferably from 10 to 25 Pa, better still at 10 Pa.

[0039] According to a second embodiment of the invention, these microorganisms are in an inactivated form.

[0040] The terms“in an inactivated form”,“in a non-revivable form” and“in a dead form” are synonymous herein.

[0041 ] Bacteria“in a semi-active form” are bacteria which have partially or totally lost their pathogenic properties, if any.

[0042] According to a third embodiment of the invention, said microorganism may be microencapsulated.

[0043] In the context of the present invention, the terms“microencapsulated” or

“microcapsules” denote products that are obtained via a micro-encapsulation process. It is a process in which particles or droplets of a small size (micrometre sized) are covered with a coating to give small capsules having numerous useful properties. In the context of the present invention, it is used for the incorporation of microorganisms in live or revivable form.

[0044] A person skilled in the art is well aware that numerous processes are

available for manufacturing microcapsules and that the present invention is not limited to any of these processes. The micro-encapsulation processes that are appropriate in the context of the present invention include, without being limited thereto, pan coating, air suspension coating, centrifugal extrusion, vibrating nozzle, spray-drying, ionotropic gelation, coacervation-phase separation, interfacial polycondensation, interfacial crosslinking, in situ polymerization, matrix polymerization. During use, the walls of the microcapsules must be ruptured in order for the microorganisms to be freed and to act as desired.

[0045] Such rupture is preferably obtained by a weak pressure, friction or shear

stress during use, for example during application of the formulations to the skin or other topical areas.

[0046] In their simplest form, the microcapsules of the present invention comprise a water-insoluble and waterproof shell, the microorganisms being contained in a non-aqueous composition in the core of said microcapsules. However, if desired, the microcapsules may contain additional layers, for instance an additional coating layer for increasing the protection of its contents.

[0047] In a particular embodiment of the present invention, said microcapsules

comprise a water-insoluble and waterproof shell; and said microorganisms are contained in a non-aqueous composition in the core of said microcapsules. The presence of water is sufficient to reactivate the revivable, in particular freeze- dried, bacteria.

[0048] Said water-insoluble and waterproof shell may be composed of at least one material chosen from alginate, xanthan gum, acacia gum, gellan gum,

carrageenan, gelatin, cellulose, or derivatives thereof; or polymers based on agar, proteins, polyol, gelatin, PVA (polyvinyl alcohol), PLGA (poly(lactic-co- glycolic acid), PLA (polylactic acid) and derivatives thereof, PCL, polyisohexyl cyanoacrylate, acrylate derivatives, or starch, or hard fats, for instance witepsol or hydrobase, and mixtures thereof.

[0049] In particular, when the microorganism is microencapsulated, it is in an

anhydrous form, for example in the form of a lyophilizate.

[0050] Growth-inducing agent for microorganisms from the species Brevibacterium epidermidis

[0051 ] A growth-inducing agent for microorganisms from the species Brevibacterium epidermidis is a compound which makes it possible to improve the growth of microorganisms from the species Brevibacterium epidermidis relative to the growth obtained in the absence of said growth-inducing agent. [0052] The term“improving the growth of microorganisms” notably denotes the fact that the growth-inducing agent for microorganisms from the species

Brevibacterium epidermidis allows the microorganisms from the species

Brevibacterium epidermidis to increase their proportion within a given

microbiome.

[0053] The growth-inducing agent for microorganisms from the species

Brevibacterium epidermidis may, for example, allow higher multiplication of the microorganisms from the species Brevibacterium epidermidis relative to the multiplication of the other microorganisms present in the microbiome.

[0054] In a preferred embodiment, the growth-inducing agent for microorganisms from the species Brevibacterium epidermidis is chosen from polysaccharides, oligosaccharides, polyols, sugars, amino acids, peptides, vitamins, nutritional precursors, metabolic products from biological organisms, lipids, proteins and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the growth-inducing agent for microorganisms from the species Brevibacterium epidermidis is chosen from amino acids, and peptides.

[0055] Said growth-inducing agent is present in a concentration of at least 0.0001 %, in particular in a proportion from 0.0001 % to 30% and more particularly in a proportion from 0.001 % to 15% by weight, in particular from 0.01 % to 10% by weight and notably from 0.1 % to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0056] Composition

[0057] The compositions for topical application, notably the cosmetic compositions, used according to the invention contain a physiologically acceptable medium.

This physiologically acceptable medium may more particularly consist of water and optionally of a physiologically acceptable organic solvent chosen, for example, from lower alcohols including from 1 to 8 carbon atoms and in particular 1 to 6 carbon atoms, for instance ethanol, isopropanol, propanol or butanol;

polyethylene glycols containing from 6 to 80 ethylene oxide units; polyols, for instance propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerol and sorbitol.

It may also be an anhydrous medium, notably an oily medium containing oils and/or fatty substances other than oils. [0058] When the physiologically acceptable medium is an aqueous medium, it has a pH that is compatible with the skin, preferably ranging from 3 to 8 and better still from 4 to 7.

[0059] When the composition includes an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic medium, it is possible to add a fatty (or oily) phase to this medium.

[0060] Thus, the compositions according to the invention containing the depolluting agents as defined above may be in any presentation form conventionally used for topical application and notably in the form of aqueous, aqueous-alcoholic or oily solutions, oil-in-water (O/W), water-in-oil (W/O) or multiple (triple: W/O/W or O/W/O) emulsions, of aqueous or oily gels, of liquid, pasty or solid anhydrous products, or of dispersions of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase using spherules, these spherules possibly being polymeric nanoparticles, such as nanospheres and nanocapsules, or lipid vesicles of ionic and/or nonionic type. These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods.

[0061 ] In addition, the compositions used according to the invention may be more or less fluid and may have the appearance of a white or coloured cream, a pomade, a milk, a lotion, a serum, a paste or a mousse. They may be optionally applied to the skin in aerosol form. They may also be in solid form, for example in the form of a stick. They may also be in the form of a single-use composition such as a single-dose composition.

[0062] When the composition used according to the invention includes an oily phase, it preferably contains at least one oil. It may also contain other fatty substances.

[0063] As oils that may be used in the composition of the invention, examples that may be mentioned include:

- hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin; hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin,

- synthetic esters and ethers, notably of fatty acids, for instance the oils of formulae R¹COOR² and R¹OR² in which R¹ represents a fatty acid residue including from 8 to 29 carbon atoms and R² represents a branched or

unbranched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms,

- linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin,

- fatty alcohols containing from 8 to 26 carbon atoms; - fluoro oils which are partially hydrocarbon-based and/or

- silicone oils such as volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) having a linear or cyclic silicone chain, which may be liquid or pasty at room

temperature,

- mixtures thereof.

[0064] In the list of oils mentioned above, the term“hydrocarbon-based oil” means any oil predominantly including carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly ester, ether, fluoro, carboxylic acid and/or alcohol groups.

[0065] The other fatty substances that may be present in the oily phase are, for

example, fatty acids including from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, waxes, silicone resins and silicone elastomers.

[0066] These fatty substances may be chosen in a varied manner by a person skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition having the desired properties, for example in terms of consistency or texture.

[0067] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition

containing the depolluting compounds is a water-in-oil (W/O) or oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion, and more particularly an O/W emulsion. The proportion of the oily phase of the emulsion may range from 5% to 80% by weight and preferably from 5% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The oils, emulsifiers and coemulsifiers used in the composition in emulsion form are chosen from those conventionally used in cosmetics or dermatology. The emulsifier and the coemulsifier are generally present in the composition in a proportion ranging from 0.3% to 30% by weight and preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The emulsion may also contain lipid vesicles.

[0068] The emulsions generally contain at least one emulsifier chosen from

amphoteric, anionic, cationic or nonionic emulsifiers, used alone or as a mixture. The emulsifiers are chosen in an appropriate manner according to the emulsion to be obtained (W/O or O/W emulsion).

[0069] In a known manner, the cosmetic composition of the invention may also

contain adjuvants that are common in the cosmetic or dermatological field, such as hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents, preserving agents, antioxidants, solvents, fragrances, fillers, screening agents, odour absorbers, dyestuffs and salts. The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the field under consideration, for example from 0.01 % to 20% of the total weight of the composition. Depending on their nature, these adjuvants may be introduced into the fatty phase, into the aqueous phase and/or into lipid spherules.

[0070] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition used according to the invention contains at least one UV-screening agent (or sunscreen) which may be a chemical screening agent or a physical screening agent or a mixture of such screening agents.

[0071 ] The amount of screening agents depends on the intended final use. It may range, for example, from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 2% to 15% by weight and better still from 2% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0072] The compositions used according to the invention may notably constitute a product for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, and notably the skin. They may be used notably for protecting keratin materials against the harmful effects of pollution, notably for preventing and/or treating the signs of skin ageing such as wrinkles, fine lines, loss of elasticity of the skin, loss of firmness of the skin, and/or for preventing and/or treating lack of skin and/or hair radiance, and/or for preventing and/or treating the appearance of pigmentation spots or actinic lentigo.

[0073] Kit

[0074] When the composition is anhydrous, it may be in the form of a kit comprising an anhydrous composition comprising at least one microorganism from the species Brevi bacterium epidermidis and an aqueous composition, both

compositions being mixed by the user at the time of use.

[0075] In particular, said kit comprises:

- a first anhydrous composition comprising at least one microorganism from the species Brevi bacterium epidermidis, a fraction thereof and/or a metabolite thereof; - a second composition comprising an aqueous phase.

[0076] The term "anhydrous" refers to a composition comprising less than 5% by weight of water, preferably less than 3% by weight of water, better still less than 1 % by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition. In a preferred embodiment, said anhydrous composition is free of water (0%).

[0077] In a first embodiment, said anhydrous composition is in the form of a

lyophilizate of at least one microorganism from the species Brevibacterium epidermidis, of a fraction thereof and/or of a metabolite thereof, preferably in the form of a lyophilizate of at least one microorganism from the species

Brevibacterium epidermidis, said microorganism being revivable.

[0078] In a second embodiment, said anhydrous composition comprises at least one liquid and/or solid fatty substance, in which microcapsules comprising at least one microorganism from the species Brevibacterium epidermidis, a fraction thereof and/or a metabolite thereof, are in suspension.

[0079] Cosmetic treatment process

[0080] Another subject of the invention is thus a cosmetic treatment process directed towards protecting keratin materials (skin, hair or others) against the harmful effects of pollution, comprising the application to the keratin materials of a composition comprising at least one microorganism from the species

Brevibacterium epidermidis, a fraction thereof and/or of a metabolite thereof, and/or at least one growth-inducing agent for said microorganism.

[0081 ] A subject of the invention is also a cosmetic process for treating keratin

materials for the purpose of:

- preventing and/or treating the signs of skin ageing such as wrinkles, fine lines, loss of elasticity of the skin, loss of firmness of the skin, and/or

- preventing and/or treating lack of skin and/or hair radiance, and/or

- preventing and/or treating the appearance of pigmentation spots or actinic lentigo, comprising the application to the keratin materials of a composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one microorganism from the species Brevibacterium epidermidis, a fraction thereof and/or a metabolite thereof, and/or at least one growth-inducing agent for said

microorganism.

[0082] In the description and in the examples that follow, unless otherwise

mentioned, the percentages are weight percentages and the ranges of values written in the form“between ... and ...” include the stated lower and upper limits. The ingredients are mixed, before being formed, in the order and under conditions that may readily be determined by a person skilled in the art.

[0083] The term "at least one" is equivalent to the term "one or more".

[0084] The examples below are presented as non-limiting illustrations of the field of the invention.

Examples

[0085] Example 1 - Metabolization of PAHs by Brevibacterium epidermidis and comparison with other microorganisms

[0086] Test principle: The selected microorganisms are grown in a minimum medium (MM Bruner) supplemented with 100 mM of one of the selected PAHs or all of the selected PAHs. After 15 days of incubation, the culture is extracted by solvent and analysed by HPLC-UV. The presence or absence of degradation is deduced by comparison of the HPLC profiles obtained with the minimum medium control containing one or all of the selected PAHs after 15 days of incubation under the same conditions.

[0087] In order to ensure the reproducibility, the tests are performed in duplicate on two series of consecutive runs, i.e. four assays per condition.

[0088] The following strains were evaluated in this protocol:

Brevibacterium epidermidis DSM 20660

- Micrococcus luteus ATTC 10240

- Micrococcus luteus ATTC 4698

- Paracoccus yeii BAA-599

- Brevibacterium McBellneri DSM 9583

[0089] The ten pollutants selected for this study were as follows:

acenaphthene, 1-naphthylacetic acid,

phthalic acid,

bromomethylnaphthalene,

- fluorene,

- anthracene,

- fluoranthrene,

benzo[a]pyrene,

pyrene,

phenanthrene.

[0090] The results obtained are detailed in the table which follows.

[0091 ] [Tables 1 ]

[0092] Conclusion:

[0093] It is noted here that the Brevibacterium McBellneri DSM 9583 strain, which is a commensal bacterium of the skin, is unable to degrade PAHs.

[0094] In contrast, the Brevibacterium epidermidis strain according to the invention is capable of degrading the majority of the selected pollutants in the same manner as the reference strains Micrococcus luteus ATTC 10240, Micrococcus luteus ATTC 4698, and Paracoccus yeii BAA-599 which were used as positive control.

[0095] Example 2 - viability test

[0096] Test principle: The selected microorganisms are grown in a minimum medium

(MM Bruner) supplemented with 100 mM of one of the selected PAHs or all of the selected PAHs. After 15 days, the viability of the microorganism is evaluated by plating 10 pL of a culture supernatant on a suitable agar medium. The viability is deemed positive if the microorganism can produce new colonies after the 15 days.

[0097] The following strains were evaluated in this protocol:

- Micrococcus luteus ATTC 10240

- Paracoccus yeii BAA-599

- Brevibacterium epidermidis DSM 20660

- Brevibacterium McBellneri DSM 9583

[0098] The results obtained are detailed in the table below:

[0099] [Tables 2]

[0100] Conclusion:

[0101 ] The Brevibacterium epidermidis strain according to the invention remains viable after 15 days of culturing, in the same manner as the reference strains Micrococcus luteus ATTC 10240, Micrococcus luteus ATTC 4698, and Paracoccus yeii BAA-599 which were used as positive control. In contrast, the Brevibacterium McBellneri DSM 9583 strain is not viable in the presence of the majority of the selected pollutants.

[0102] Example 3 - Preparation of a lyophilizate of the microorganism

Brevibacterium epidermidis

[0103] Test principle: The lyophilizate is obtained by freeze-drying the biomass

Brevibacterium epidermidis DSM 20660. This freeze-drying process takes place in two steps: a step of freezing at -20°C and then a step of desiccation in a freeze-dryer under vacuum with a pressure of 10 bar. In order to evaluate the viability of the strain after freeze-drying, a plate count is performed on the same theoretical population which has been freeze-dried or not.

[0104] A test was performed with the Brevibacterium epidermidis DSM20660 strain, before and after freeze-drying, and shows a loss of one log when freeze-dried. The content of bacteria thus remains unchanged following the freeze-drying process, and this technique can thus be used for incorporating bacteria in freeze- dried form in a cosmetic formulation.

[0105] Example 4 - Skincare lotion

[Tables 3]

Claims

[Claim 1 ] Cosmetic use of at least one microorganism from the species

Brevibacterium epidermidis, of a fraction thereof and/or of a metabolite thereof and/or of at least one growth-inducing agent for said microorganism, as a depolluting agent.

[Claim 2] Cosmetic use of at least one microorganism from the species

Brevibacterium epidermidis, of a fraction thereof and/or of a metabolite thereof and/or of at least one growth-inducing agent for said microorganism, for protecting keratin materials against the harmful effects of pollution, notably particulate pollution, in particular polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs).

[Claim 3] Use according to Claim 2, in which polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs) are chosen from naphthalene, acenaphthene, acenaphthylene, 1 -naphthylacetic acid, phthalic acid, bromomethylnaphthalene, fluorene, phenanthrene, anthracene, fluoranthrene, pyrene, benzo[a]pyrene, chrysene, benzo[b]fluoranthene, benzo[k]fluoranthene, benzo[a]pyrene, benzo[e]pyrene, indeno[1 ,2,3-cd]pyrene, benzo[g/?/]perylene, dibenzo[a,/7]anthracene, and mixtures thereof.

[Claim 4] Use according to any one of the preceding claims, in which said

microorganism from the species Brevibacterium epidermidis is the strain Brevibacterium epidermidis DSM 20660.

[Claim 5] Use according to any one of the preceding claims, in which said

microorganism from the species Brevibacterium epidermidis, a fraction thereof and/or of a metabolite thereof are present in a concentration of at least 0.0001 % by dry weight, in particular from 0.0001 % to 30% and more particularly from 0.001 % to 15% by weight, in particular from 0.01 % to 10% by weight, and notably from 0.1 % to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition comprising same.

[Claim 6] Use according to any one of the preceding claims, in which said

growth-inducing agent is chosen from polysaccharides, oligosaccharides, polyols, sugars, amino acids, peptides, vitamins, nutritional precursors, metabolic products from biological organisms, lipids, proteins and mixtures thereof.

[Claim 7] Use according to any one of the preceding claims, in which said growth-inducing agent is present in a concentration of at least 0.0001 %, in particular from 0.0001 % to 30% and more particularly from 0.001 % to 15% by weight, in particular from 0.01 % to 10% by weight, and notably from 0.1 % to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition comprising same.

[Claim 8] Depolluting cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically

acceptable medium, at least one microorganism from the species

Brevibacterium epidermidis, a fraction thereof and/or a metabolite thereof.

[Claim 9] Cosmetic composition according to Claim 8, in which said

[Claim 10] Cosmetic treatment process, comprising the application to

keratin materials of a cosmetic composition comprising at least one

microorganism from the species Brevibacterium epidermidis, a fraction thereof and/or a metabolite thereof, and/or at least one growth-inducing agent for said microorganism, for protecting said keratin materials against the harmful effects of pollution.