WO2020127830A1 - Applicateur permettant d'appliquer un produit cosmétique sur les cils et/ou les sourcils - Google Patents

Applicateur permettant d'appliquer un produit cosmétique sur les cils et/ou les sourcils Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2020127830A1
WO2020127830A1 PCT/EP2019/086453 EP2019086453W WO2020127830A1 WO 2020127830 A1 WO2020127830 A1 WO 2020127830A1 EP 2019086453 W EP2019086453 W EP 2019086453W WO 2020127830 A1 WO2020127830 A1 WO 2020127830A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
applicator
core
application
protuberances
distal portion
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/EP2019/086453
Other languages
English (en)
Inventor
Camille Schreiber
Audrey THENIN
Amine OUNACEUR
Original Assignee
L'oreal
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by L'oreal filed Critical L'oreal
Publication of WO2020127830A1 publication Critical patent/WO2020127830A1/fr

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Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A46BRUSHWARE
    • A46BBRUSHES
    • A46B9/00Arrangements of the bristles in the brush body
    • A46B9/02Position or arrangement of bristles in relation to surface of the brush body, e.g. inclined, in rows, in groups
    • A46B9/021Position or arrangement of bristles in relation to surface of the brush body, e.g. inclined, in rows, in groups arranged like in cosmetics brushes, e.g. mascara, nail polish, eye shadow
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A46BRUSHWARE
    • A46DMANUFACTURE OF BRUSHES
    • A46D1/00Bristles; Selection of materials for bristles
    • A46D1/02Bristles details
    • A46D1/0253Bristles having a shape which is not a straight line, e.g. curved, "S", hook, loop
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A46BRUSHWARE
    • A46DMANUFACTURE OF BRUSHES
    • A46D1/00Bristles; Selection of materials for bristles
    • A46D1/02Bristles details
    • A46D1/0292Bristles having split ends

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to an applicator for applying a cosmetic product to the eyelashes and/or eyebrows, notably a makeup or care product, for example mascara, and to the corresponding packaging and application devices.
  • the invention also relates to a method for manufacturing such an applicator and to the associated makeup method.
  • Patent applications EP1070468A1, EP1342428A1 and FR2505633A1 disclose applicators for cosmetic product comprising application elements that comprise no protuberances with a curved free end.
  • the applicator comprises an application member comprising a core and teeth extending from the core.
  • the teeth do not have reliefs at their distal end and each extend in a plane transverse to the longitudinal axis of the core.
  • the invention aims to meet this objective and the subject thereof, according to one of its aspects, is an applicator for applying a cosmetic product to the eyelashes and/or eyebrows, comprising an application member, the application member comprising:
  • the application elements comprising:
  • a body comprising a non-rectilinear distal portion
  • application elements denotes individualizable projecting elements intended to come into engagement with the eyelashes and/or eyebrows.
  • the application elements may be separated from each other.
  • The“distal portion” corresponds to the portion that extends from 1/4 of the length of the body, measured from the end via which the body connects to the core, as far as its distal end.
  • the distal portion may be more limited and correspond to the portion that extends from half, or, better, 2/3 of the length, or even from 3/4 or 4/5 of the length of the body.
  • the term "monoblock" means that the application member is made as a single piece.
  • the application member may be made of a single material.
  • the application member may comprise several materials, notably parts made of different materials fused together at their join during manufacture so as to form just one single piece.
  • the core comprises a center made of a flexible material covered with a casing made of a more rigid material, the two materials being fused together at their joins.
  • The“longitudinal axis of the core” means the line connecting all of the centers of mass of the cross sections of the core.
  • the longitudinal axis may be a central axis, or even an axis of symmetry for the core, notably when the core has a circular cross section or a cross section in the overall shape of a regular polygon.
  • the longitudinal axis of the core may be rectilinear or may have one or more curves between the distal and proximal ends.
  • the longitudinal axis of the core is rectilinear and coincident with the longitudinal axis of a stem supporting the application member.
  • A“non-rectilinear distal portion” means that the body exhibits a change in direction at its distal portion.
  • the change in direction may be progressive, the distal portion being a curved portion, or abrupt, the distal portion exhibiting a break in slope, for example at a right angle.
  • the non-rectilinear distal portion may for example be bent or curved.
  • the distal portion of the body is non-rectilinear, notably bent or curved, allows good catching of the eyelashes, making it easier to apply the cosmetic product and to separate said lashes.
  • the non-rectilinear aspect also makes contact between the application member and the eyelids or the eyelashes more gentle, notably when the distal portion is a curved portion. That may encourage the user to bring the application member closer to the eye, allowing the cosmetic product to be applied to the base of the eyelashes, or encourage her or him to press the application member more firmly against the eyelashes and/or eyebrows, making it possible to achieve a better loading of cosmetic product onto the eyelashes.
  • the non-rectilinear distal portion may form a product accumulation zone that is easier for the eyelashes to access on account of its distance from the core. That allows the eyelashes and/or eyebrows to be better loaded with cosmetic product.
  • the space between the body and the protuberance(s) and between the protuberances creates a cosmetic-product accumulation zone.
  • This zone increases the autonomy of the applicator and allows the eyelashes and/or eyebrows to be properly loaded with cosmetic product when it is being used.
  • the protuberance makes it possible to have a good separation of the eyelashes and/or eyebrows.
  • the application may comprise a stem to which the application member is fixed, notably comprising a housing in which an end piece of the application member is held.
  • the end piece extends along the longitudinal axis of the core, which may be rectilinear or curved.
  • the applicator is symmetrical with respect to its longitudinal axis.
  • the application member may be monoblock.
  • the application member is preferably obtained by an additive manufacturing process.
  • the applicator is obtained by additive manufacturing means that it can be obtained in a single step, the various elements constituting the applicator being made from the same material as each other without the need to use a mold.
  • the application member may be obtained from a pre-established digital model by solidification of a raw material layer by layer, from a second longitudinal end of the application member toward the first longitudinal end of the application member.
  • the application member is made at least partly of a material selected from semi crystalline thermoplastic materials, notably a polyamide such as nylon 12. These materials make it possible to obtain parts having good mechanical strength and thermal resistance.
  • the application member is made from a material selected from materials that can be polymerized by light irradiation, notably the photocurable materials. This allows manufacture by an additive manufacturing process in which the material is solidified by irradiation with light, notably using a laser, by localized catalysis or by localized application of heat.
  • the application member is made of a material selected from ceramics or metals.
  • the application member may have an envelope surface of a cross section that varies along all or part of the length of the application member. This envelope surface may exhibit one or more extrema, notably a maximum between the distal and local ends of the application member, preferably different from these ends, for example mid-way along the length.
  • the cross section of the envelope surface may equally diminish on nearing at least one of the proximal and distal ends of the application member, preferably on nearing the proximal and distal ends of the application member. This notably facilitates the application of the cosmetic product to the eyelashes at the corner of the eye.
  • the envelope surface is defined by the distal ends of at least some of the application elements.
  • the core may have a cross section of circular or polygonal shape, such as square, rectangular or triangular.
  • cross section means any section produced in a plane orthogonal to the longitudinal axis of the core.
  • the core may have a cross section that is constant from its proximal end to its distal end.
  • the core has a cross section the shape and/or dimension of which varies along its longitudinal axis.
  • the cross section may exhibit several local extrema, for example at least one local maximum. The latter is preferably situated substantially mid-way along the length of the core.
  • the core may be solid or hollow.
  • the core may comprise longitudinal openings.
  • the latter allow product accumulation.
  • the openings may also allow the core a certain degree of flexibility.
  • the core may comprise at least one helical groove turning around the longitudinal axis of the core, preferably at least two helical grooves of equal pitch and opposite hand turning around the longitudinal axis of the core. Such grooves allow the formation of reserves of cosmetic product on the core.
  • the helical groove or grooves extend around the longitudinal axis over at least one revolution, preferably over a plurality of revolutions, notably between 2 and 60 revolutions, or, better, between 3 and 40 revolutions over the entire length of the application member.
  • the core is cylindrical.
  • all the application elements of the application member comprise a body comprising a bent distal portion, and at least one protuberance extending laterally from the body.
  • the application member comprises additional application elements of different shapes, notably in the form of spikes which may or may not be provided with reliefs.
  • the application elements may be distributed over the core in at least one row of application elements, preferably at least two rows of application elements.
  • the row or rows of application elements extend helically around the longitudinal axis of the core, following a helix with the same pitch as the helical groove or grooves, and preferably at the same distance from the two helical grooves when two grooves are present.
  • the row or rows of application elements extend helically around the longitudinal axis of the core, notably following a helix with the same pitch as the helical groove or grooves, and preferably at the same distance from the two helical grooves when two grooves are present.
  • the helical row or rows of application elements may extend around the longitudinal axis of the core over at least one turn, notably a plurality of turns, preferably between 2 and 60 turns, or, better, between 3 and 40 turns over the entire length of the application member. Such a number of turns allows the application member to have an appearance of being well-furnished with application elements and gives the impression that the application elements are arranged at random.
  • the or each row may comprise a number of application elements of between 2 and 500 elements, or, better, of between 5 and 300.
  • the row or rows of application elements each extend between the turns of the groove or grooves of the core, notably at equal distances from the latter.
  • the row or rows of application elements each extend along the groove or grooves of the core.
  • At least one row of application elements extends between the turns of the groove or grooves, and at least one row of application elements extends along the groove or one of the grooves.
  • the application elements are distributed in at least two helical rows around the longitudinal axis of the core and are intercalated with one another.
  • consecutive application elements of a row are all spaced apart by the same distance, defined between the axes of extension of two consecutive application elements at their base, of between 0.1 mm and 5 mm, better still between 0.5 mm and 1 mm.
  • the body may be connected to the core by a single strand of material.
  • the body may be connected to the core by only one of its ends.
  • the body may comprise a proximal portion extending from the core and a non-rectilinear distal portion extending between the proximal portion and a free end of the body.
  • the body comprises a proximal portion extending between the base of the body on the core and the distal portion of the body.
  • the proximal portion is rectilinear.
  • the proximal portion may have a cross section the dimension of which decreases from the base toward the distal portion.
  • the proximal portion is solid.
  • the bodies of the application elements may each extend along an axis of elongation.
  • the axis of elongation preferably defines a plane of elongation, which is the plane in which the axis extends when this axis is non-rectilinear and contained entirely in the one same plane.
  • the axis of elongation has at least one non-rectilinear part, notably at least one curved part, along which the distal portion of the body extends.
  • the axis of elongation may comprise a rectilinear part along which the proximal portion of the body extends.
  • the rectilinear part of the axis of elongation is oriented radially, namely along a radius of the core.
  • the rectilinear part of the axis of elongation is inclined relative to a radius of the core at the base of the body by an angle of between 0 and 90°, better still between 5° and 30°, even better still between 10° and 20°.
  • the plane of elongation is a plane transverse to the longitudinal axis of the core.
  • the distal portion of the body then extends transversely to the longitudinal axis of the core on one side of the proximal portion or the other.
  • the axis of elongation may extend perpendicular to the surface of the core at its base.
  • the axis of elongation extends at least partially in a plane that is inclined with respect to a plane transverse to the longitudinal axis of the core.
  • the axes of elongation all extend in the direction of the one same end of the core.
  • the bodies of the application elements may each exhibit a transverse cross section that is circular or polygonal.
  • the height of the body measured from the core along the rectilinear part of the axis of elongation of the application element, may be between 0.2 mm and 5 mm, or even between 0.5 mm and 3 mm.
  • the height of the bodies of the application elements may vary along all or part of the length of the application member. This height may exhibit one or more extrema, notably a maximum between the distal and proximal ends, preferably at a point different from these ends, for example mid-way along the length.
  • the height of the bodies may equally diminish on nearing at least one of the proximal and distal ends of the application member, preferably on nearing the proximal and distal ends of the application member.
  • the height of the application elements may be constant along the longitudinal axis of the core.
  • the distal portion may be curved. It may have a constant curvature. For example, it may form an arc of a circle which is concave or convex toward the inside.
  • the distal portion has a radius of curvature of between 0.2 mm and 2 mm. The radius of curvature may correspond to the radius of curvature of the non-rectilinear part of the axis of elongation along which the distal portion of the body extends.
  • the distal portion has a radius of curvature of between 5% and 40% of the height of the body, better between 10% to 25%, better still between 15% and 20%.
  • the distal portion has an angular extent relative to its center of curvature of between 90° and 180°, preferably between 135° and 170°.
  • the bent distal portion may have a curvature that is concave toward the core.
  • the distal portion is in the form of a hook toward the core. That makes for good catching of the eyelashes and gentle contact with the eyelid.
  • the bent distal portion has a curvature which is concave toward the outside. That makes it possible to accumulate composition at a certain distance that is easily accessible for the eyelashes, and makes it possible to load them with composition without it being necessary to introduce them deeply into the application member.
  • the distal portions of the bodies of the application elements of the one same row of application elements may all extend in a plane transverse to the core and all have curvatures oriented in the same circumferential direction.
  • the distal portions of the bodies of the application elements of the one same row of application elements all extend in a plane transverse to the core in the direction thereof.
  • the distal portions of the bodies of the application elements of one row of application elements have curvatures oriented in the opposite circumferential direction to the direction in which the curvatures of the distal portions of the bodies of the application elements of the adjacent row or rows of application elements are directed.
  • distal portions of the bodies of the application elements all extend in a plane transverse to the core and all have curvatures oriented in the same circumferential direction.
  • the distal portions of the bodies of adjacent application elements of the one same row are oriented toward opposite sides of the body from which they extend.
  • the application elements each comprise a plurality of protuberances, notably two protuberances, extending laterally from the body, notably from the proximal portion of the body. This makes it possible to improve the separation of the eyelashes and to benefit from several reserves of product, notably along the height of the application elements.
  • the protuberance or protuberances extend from the proximal portion of the body.
  • the protuberance or protuberances extend along the plane of elongation defined by the axis of elongation of the corresponding body.
  • the protuberance or protuberances may extend along an axis of extension extending in a plane transverse to the longitudinal axis of the core.
  • the protuberance or protuberances extend from the body on the same side of the body of an application element, notably the same side as the side from which the distal portion of the body extends.
  • the protuberance or protuberances may extend along an axis of extension which is non- rectilinear or rectilinear.
  • the or each protuberance is non-rectilinear, notably curved, and extends along an axis of extension that is non-rectilinear, notably curved, notably having one or more curvature(s) between the junction between the protuberance and the body and the free end of the protuberance.
  • each axis of extension has a constant curvature.
  • the axis of extension forms an arc of a circle.
  • the curvature of the axis of extension is different for at least two different points on the axis of extension.
  • the protuberance or protuberances may have a radius of curvature that is substantially equal to the radius of curvature of the distal portion of the body.
  • the curved shape of the protuberance or protuberances makes it possible to improve contact between the eyelashes and the application member, during application of makeup, particularly affording contact that is gentle.
  • the axis of extension may have an angular extent that is smaller than the angular extent of the axis of elongation of the bent distal portion.
  • the protuberance or protuberances may extend from the upper half of the body. What is meant by“upper half’ is the portion situated more than LI 2 from the core along the axis of elongation of the body, where L is the total height of the body measured from its base to its highest point. This then makes it possible to accumulate the composition at a certain distance from the core that is more easily accessible for the eyelashes, and makes it possible to load them with composition without it being necessary to introduce them deeply into the application member.
  • the protuberance or protuberances may have a curvature oriented toward the outside or toward the longitudinal axis.
  • At least two protuberances of an application element notably all the protuberances, extend along axes of extension that are coplanar.
  • At least two protuberances of an application element may extend on the one same side of the body, notably on the same side of the proximal portion.
  • at least two protuberances of an application element extend from the body, notably from the proximal portion, on the same side of the body as the side from which the distal portion of the body extends.
  • At least two protuberances of an application element may extend from opposite sides of the body.
  • the axes of extension of at least two protuberances of an application element are coplanar with the axis of elongation of the body.
  • the axes of extension of at least two protuberances of an application element preferably of all the protuberances of an application element, extend in the one same transverse plane of the core.
  • At least two protuberances may extend at different heights of the body.
  • the two protuberances extending at different heights may extend along axes of extension that extend along the plane of elongation.
  • At least two protuberances extend on the body at the same height relative to the base of the body, but from different sides of the body.
  • the protuberance or protuberances each extend along an axis of extension extending transversely to the longitudinal axis of the core.
  • a further subject of the invention is a device for packaging and applying a product to the eyelashes and/or the eyebrows, comprising an applicator as defined hereinabove and a container containing the product.
  • the grasping member for grasping the applicator may constitute a cap for closing the container.
  • the grasping member for grasping the applicator constitutes the container containing the product; the core is then hollow and the application member comprises at least one orifice for supplying the application member with product.
  • the container may comprise a wiping member suitable for wiping the stem and the application member.
  • the product is preferably a mascara.
  • a further subject of the invention is a method for the manufacture of an applicator according to the invention as defined above, wherein a blank of the application member or the application member itself is produced in successive layers from a digital model of the applicator or of the application member.
  • Such a method allows an applicator to be manufactured in a single step, the various elements of the applicator being made from the same material as each other without the need to use a mold.
  • Such a method also makes it possible to develop new forms of applicator, particularly ones which are impossible to produce by injection molding because of the presence of undercuts.
  • the method may involve
  • step (ii) solidification of a raw material that is able to flow, as a function of the digital model.
  • the raw material is preferably a material in powder form.
  • step (ii) can be performed by sintering the raw powder material layer by layer.
  • the raw material is liquid, notably is a photocurable material.
  • the raw material may be solidified slice by slice, by irradiation of the raw photocurable material.
  • the method of manufacture by additive manufacturing may be a process of filament deposition printing (FDM), stereolithography (SLA), multi -jet fusion (MLF) technique, selective laser sintering (SLS) or digital light processing (DLP), notably CLIP (continuous liquid interface production), preferably MLF.
  • FDM filament deposition printing
  • SLA stereolithography
  • MLF multi -jet fusion
  • SLS selective laser sintering
  • DLP digital light processing
  • CLIP continuous liquid interface production
  • the method of manufacture is a multi-jet fusion technique.
  • This method may comprise the steps consisting in:
  • the powder material may be a material in powder form selected from a semi-crystalline thermoplastic material, notably a polyamide such as nylon 12 or PA220, preferably pure, metal, composite, ceramic, glass, resin or polymer.
  • the coalescence agent or agents may be a compound of the ink type comprising carbon black, for example the ink compound CM997A available notably from the Hewlett- Packard Company.
  • the coalescence agent or agents may additionally comprise an infrared and/or near-infrared and/or visible light absorber, notably the ink compounds CE039A and C042A available notably from the Hewlett-Packard Company.
  • the coalescence modifier(s) may be a colloidal ink, a dye-based ink or a polymer-based ink.
  • the coalescence modifier(s) may comprise solid compounds or compounds in solution, notably may be a saline solution.
  • the coalescence modifier(s) may be the ink compound CM996A or CN673A available notably from the Hewlett-Packard Company.
  • the layer of powder material has a thickness of between 90 and 110 microns.
  • the printing plate has a dimension ranging from 10 cm by 10 cm, to 100 cm by 100 cm.
  • the method for manufacturing the applicator may be as described in international application W02015106816.
  • the method of manufacture by additive manufacturing comprises:
  • a light source notably a laser
  • steps a) and b) repeating steps a) and b) to produce continuously, by successive layers, solid parts which adhere to each other so as to form the application member.
  • the vat comprises, preferably, a surface in fluidic communication with a source of polymerization inhibitor, step a) being performed while forming or keeping a fluid zone between the predefined build zone and said surface, in which fluid zone the polymerization of the fluid photocurable material is inhibited by the polymerization inhibitor.
  • the polymerization inhibitor is oxygen.
  • the fluid zone has a height less than or equal to 1 mm, preferably between 500 pm and 0.01 pm, or, better, between 100 pm and 10 pm.
  • the localized irradiation and the movement of the substrate are continuous, the fluid zone and the build zone having at their interface a polymerization gradient such that the manufacture of the application member is substantially continuous. This makes it possible to limit the presence of visible strata as found in the methods of manufacture by additive manufacturing that produce the object layer by layer.
  • the method preferably comprises an additional step of heating the application member formed. This makes it possible to harden the structure of the application member manufactured and to smooth its surface.
  • the method for manufacturing the applicator may be as described in international applications WO2014126830 and WO2014126837.
  • FIG. 1 figure 1 depicts an application and packaging device according to the invention
  • FIG. 2 figure 2 is a schematic perspective depiction, in profile, of an application member of an applicator according to the invention
  • figure 3 is a face-on view, i.e. a view on III, of the application member of figure 2,
  • figure 4 is a view of a detail of the application member of figures 1 to
  • figure 5 depicts the envelope surface of the application member of figures 1 to 4,
  • figure 6 is a view in transverse section of the application member of figures 1 to 5,
  • figure 7 is a view in transverse section of the application member of figures 1 to 5,
  • figure 8 depicts an application element of the application member of figures 1 to 7,
  • FIG. 9 depicts an alternative form of application elements of an applicator according to the invention.
  • FIG. 10 figure 10 depicts an alternative form of application elements of an applicator according to the invention.
  • FIG. 11 figure 11 depicts an alternative form of application elements of an applicator according to the invention
  • FIG. 12 figure 12 depicts an alternative form of application elements of an applicator according to the invention
  • FIG. 13 depicts an alternative form of application elements of an applicator according to the invention
  • FIG. 14 figure 14 depicts an alternative form of application elements of an applicator according to the invention
  • FIG. 15 figure 15 depicts an alternative form of application elements of an applicator according to the invention
  • FIG. 16 figure 16 depicts an alternative form of application elements of an applicator according to the invention.
  • FIG. 17 depicts an alternative form of application elements of an applicator according to the invention.
  • FIG. 18 figure 18 depicts an alternative form of application elements of an applicator according to the invention.
  • FIG. 19a figure 19a illustrates a step in the manufacture of the application member according to the invention
  • FIG. 19b figure 19b illustrates a step in the manufacture of the application member according to the invention
  • FIG. 19c figure 19c illustrates a step in the manufacture of the application member according to the invention
  • FIG. 19d illustrates a step in the manufacture of the application member according to the invention
  • FIG. 19e figure 19e illustrates a step in the manufacture of the application member according to the invention
  • FIG. 19f figure 19f illustrates a step in the manufacture of the application member according to the invention
  • FIG. 20 figure 20 illustrates steps in the manufacture of the application member according to the invention
  • FIG. 21 figure 21 illustrates steps in an alternative form of the method of manufacture of the application member according to the invention
  • FIG. 22 figure 22 illustrates steps in an alternative form of the method of manufacture of the application member according to the invention.
  • Figure 1 shows a packaging and application device 1 produced in accordance with the invention, comprising an applicator 2 and an associated container 3 containing a product F to be applied to the eyelashes and/or the eyebrows, for example mascara or a care product.
  • the container 3, in the example concerned, comprises a threaded neck 4, and the applicator 2 comprises a grasping member 5 which also forms a closure cap for the container 2. This cap is designed to be attached to the neck 4 in order to close the container 3 in a sealed fashion when not in use.
  • the container 3 may also be produced differently.
  • the applicator 2 has a stem 7 of longitudinal axis X t , which is attached at its upper end to the closure cap 5 and at its lower end to an application member 8 according to the invention.
  • the latter has a core 10 bearing application elements 15 that extend from the core 10 and all around the latter.
  • the container 3 also has a wiping member 6, for example inserted into the neck 4.
  • This wiping member 6, which may be any wiping member, has, in the example in question, a lip designed to wipe the stem 7 and the application member 8 when the applicator 2 is withdrawn from the container 3.
  • the lip defines a wiping orifice 6a having a diameter adapted to that of the stem.
  • the wiping member 6 may be made of elastomer.
  • the wiping member 6 may comprise a wiping orifice 6a with a circular shape, possibly with slots.
  • the diameter of the wiping orifice 6a of the wiping member 6 is, for example, between 2.5 and 6 mm.
  • the wiping member 6 may possibly have undulations, allowing the wiping orifice to widen more easily as the application member 8 passes through.
  • the wiping member may also be adjustable, if appropriate.
  • the stem 7 has a circular transverse cross section, but it would not constitute a departure from the scope of the present invention if the stem 7 had a different cross section, it then being possible to fasten the cap 5 on the container 3 in some way other than by screwing.
  • the wiping member 6 is adapted to the shape of the stem 7 and to that of the application member 8.
  • the longitudinal axis X t of the stem 7 is rectilinear and coincident with the longitudinal axis of the container 3 when the applicator 2 is in place thereon, but it would not constitute a departure from the scope of the present invention if the stem 7 were not rectilinear, forming for example an elbow.
  • the stem 7 may comprise an annular narrowing at its portion that is positioned opposite the lip of the wiping member 6, so as not to mechanically stress the latter unduly during storage.
  • the stem 7, to which the application member 8 is fixed, may be at least partially, and notably completely, flexible, notably in the vicinity of the application member.
  • the application member 8 is fixed to the stem 7 by any means, and notably by force- fitting, snap-fastening, adhesive bonding, welding, stapling or crimping, in a corresponding housing provided at the end of the stem 7.
  • the application member 8 may comprise an end piece 9 for fixing it in a corresponding housing of the stem 7.
  • the application member 8 has a core 10 and a plurality of application elements 18a; 18b extending from the core 10.
  • the core 10 is of a shape that is elongated along a longitudinal axis X.
  • the latter is rectilinear but, as an alternative, may be of another shape, notably having one or more curvatures between the distal and proximal ends.
  • the longitudinal axis X is an axis of symmetry for the core.
  • the core 10 comprises two grooves 16 and 17 each turning around the longitudinal axis of the core X following two respective helices 13 and 15.
  • the two helices 13 and 15 are of opposite hand to one another relative to the longitudinal axis X, and have the same pitch.
  • the helices 13 and 15 rotate about the axis X over more than one turn, notably over more than 6 turns, for example over 9 turns.
  • the application member 8 bears a plurality of application elements 18 extending from the core 10.
  • the application elements 18 are all substantially identical in shape, notably apart from their height.
  • the application elements 18 comprise a body 20 and two protuberances 22a and 22b extending laterally from the body 20.
  • the body 20 of the application elements 18 has a rectilinear proximal portion 20a and a non-rectilinear distal portion 20b, as illustrated in figures 3, 4, 6 to 8.
  • the bodies 20 of the application elements 18 each extend along an axis of elongation Y contained in a plane transverse to the longitudinal axis X of the core 10.
  • the axis of elongation Y has a rectilinear part Y a along which the proximal portion of the body 20a extends, and at least one non-rectilinear, notably curved, part Y b along which the distal portion of the body extends.
  • the axis of elongation Y defines a plane of elongation M, notably coincident with a transverse plane of the longitudinal axis X.
  • the rectilinear part Y a of the axis of elongation Y is oriented radially, namely along a radial axis of the core.
  • the rectilinear part Y a of the axis of extension is inclined with respect to the radial axis of the core at the base of the body.
  • the bodies 20 of the application elements 18 are transverse to the longitudinal axis X of the core and inclined relative to the radial axis thereof at their base.
  • the proximal portion 20a of the bodies 20 of the application elements 18 has a circular transverse cross section.
  • the cross section is polygonal, for example triangular or rectangular.
  • the proximal portion 20a has a transverse cross section that decreases from the base toward the distal portion 20b, as illustrated. That allows the end of the application element to be given flexibility that makes its contact with the skin gentler.
  • the height L of the body measured from the core along the rectilinear part Y a of the axis of elongation Y, from the base of the applicator element 20p to its distal end 20d, may be between 0.2 mm and 5 mm, preferably between 0.5 mm and 3 mm.
  • each body 20 is curved, preferably in the form of a hook.
  • the non-rectilinear distal portion 20b has a transverse cross section the dimension of which is constant along the axis Y b , with a rounded free end.
  • It may have a curvature having a radius of curvature r of between 0.2 and 2 mm, preferably substantially equal to 0.3 mm.
  • the radius of curvature r corresponds to the radius of curvature of the axis of the non-rectilinear part, as illustrated in figure 8.
  • the distal portion 20b of the body extends in an arc of a circle of angular extent Q of between 30° and 180°, better still between 90° and 180°, for example substantially equal to 150°.
  • the distal portion has a radius of curvature r of between 5% and 40% of the height L of the body, better between 10% to 25%, and better still between 15% and 20%.
  • the radius of curvature is constant along the curved portion, and represents 15% of the height of the body.
  • the radius of curvature r is substantially equal to the height L p of the curved part Y b of the axis of elongation Y measured along the rectilinear part of the axis Y a.
  • the application element 18 has two protuberances 22a and 22b each extending along an axis of extension P extending in the same plane of elongation M as the body 20, notably in a plane transverse to the longitudinal axis X of the core 10. Preferably, they extend at different heights of the body 20 from the rectilinear portion 20a of the body on the same side of the body 20 as the distal portion 20b of the body 20.
  • the protuberances 22a and 22b are all of substantially identical shape. They have a constant transverse cross section and a rounded free end. As an alternative, the transverse cross section may vary, notably decreasing toward their free end.
  • the protuberances 22a and 22b extend on the one same face of the body 20.
  • the curvatures of the protuberances 22a and 22b are oriented in the same circumferential direction as the non-rectilinear distal end.
  • the protuberances 22 are concave toward the core 10.
  • the axes of extension P of the protuberances 22a and 22b are preferably curved. They are preferably parallel to the non-rectilinear part Y b. These have a radius of curvature r p that is preferably substantially identical to the radius of curvature r of the curved distal portion 20b. The radius of curvature r p corresponds to the radius of curvature of the axis of extension.
  • the protuberances extend in an arc of a circle of angular extent 0 P which is less than that of the distal end 20b.
  • the distal end 20a and the protuberances 22a and 22b extend laterally from the body 20 over the same distance d from the rectilinear part of the axis of elongation Y.
  • One of the protuberances 22a extends over the distal half of the application element, in such a way as to constitute reserves of product at a distance from the core.
  • the application elements 18 are arranged in rows of application elements.
  • the rows of application elements 18 extend around the core, each following the helical path of one of the two helices 13 and 15. These rows extend between the two grooves 16 and 17, preferably at the same distance from the latter. This does not have to be the case.
  • the application member 8 comprises rows of application elements that do not follow the helical path of the grooves 16 and 17.
  • the rows of application elements 18 may be helical but extend along helical grooves 16 and 17.
  • the core has a transverse cross section that is constant from its proximal end to its distal end.
  • the distal and/or proximal ends of the core are tapered, which makes it easier to introduce into the container containing the product.
  • the length H of the core 10 is for example between 15 mm and 27 mm.
  • the core is a solid cylindrical core and the rows of applicator elements 18 extend helically or along the longitudinal axis of the core X.
  • Each row has, for example, between 20 and 150 application elements, better between 50 and 100 application elements as described previously.
  • the application elements are aligned with each other at their base along the corresponding row.
  • At least part of the distal ends of the application elements 18 define an envelope surface S of the application member 8, the longitudinal axis of which is rectilinear and coincident with the longitudinal axis X of the core 10.
  • the envelope S has symmetry of revolution about said axis X, being of elongate shape, of circular cross section and becoming enlarged at its center, as can be seen notably in figure 5.
  • the envelope surface S has, in the example illustrated, a transverse cross section the dimension of which varies over the entire length of the application member 8, notably exhibiting two minima, at points corresponding substantially to the distal end and to the proximal end of the application member, and a maximum in the middle of the length H of the application member 8.
  • the distance between the base of two consecutive application elements 18 of the same row may be between 0.1 mm and 5 mm, preferably between 0.5 mm and 1 mm.
  • the planes of elongation of all the application elements are coincident with a transverse plane of the core so that the distal portions 20b and the protuberances 22 of the application elements 18 all extend circumferentially to the core 10 in the clockwise or counterclockwise direction starting from the proximal portion of the body 20a.
  • the application elements 18 of the one same row comprise distal portions 20b and protuberances 22 all extending from their respective proximal portion 20a in the same circumferential direction.
  • the application elements 18 of adjacent rows around the core 10 may comprise distal portions 20b and protuberances 22 which extend from their respective proximal portion 20a in opposite circumferential directions as is illustrated notably in figure 7.
  • all the application elements comprise distal portions 20b and protuberances 22 all extending from their respective proximal portion 20a in the same circumferential direction.
  • the height L of the proximal portions of the bodies may vary over all or part of the length of the application member. This height may exhibit one or more extrema, notably a maximum mid-way along the length.
  • the height of the bodies may equally diminish on nearing at least one of the proximal and distal ends of the application member, preferably on nearing the proximal and distal ends of the application member.
  • Figures 9 to 18 illustrate shapes of application elements 18 which differ from that of the embodiment of figures 1 to 8.
  • the curvatures of the axes of extension P may extend in an opposite circumferential direction to that of the non-rectilinear distal portion 20b.
  • the protuberances extend from opposite faces with respect to the rectilinear portion 20a of the body 20.
  • the protuberances may have a concavity different from that of the non-rectilinear distal end 20b, notably toward the outside as in the example of figure 11.
  • the distal end 20b may equally be concave toward the outside, as is illustrated in figure 12. That notably makes it possible to create a product accumulation zone, at a distance that the eyelashes can access easily. That allows the eyelashes and/or eyebrows to be better loaded with cosmetic product.
  • the protuberances 22a and 22b may extend along rectilinear axes of extension.
  • the axes of extension P of the protuberances 22a and 22b can each form an external angle g r with the axis of extension Y of the body of between 45° and 135°.
  • the protuberances extend in the direction of the core, the angle g r being substantially equal to 45°.
  • Figure 14 extend in the direction of the free end of the corresponding application element, the angle g r being substantially equal to 120°.
  • Figure 15 illustrates an example in which several protuberances extend from the body 20.
  • the protuberances 22c and 22b extend along axes of extension P that extend from different longitudinal planes of the body. These longitudinal planes of the body may form between them an angle of between 0 and 180°, preferably between 45 and 125°, for example 90°.
  • the non-rectilinear distal portion 20b has several curvatures. It may be formed for example by a succession of arcs. In the example illustrated in figure 16, the non-rectilinear distal portion 20b is formed of a succession of arcs of three arcs, two arcs that are concave toward the core 31 and 33, and one central arc 33 which is concave toward the outside.
  • the central arc 33 defines a cavity open toward the outside, in which cavity the product can be collected.
  • the non-rectilinear distal end 20b may extend in a closed or virtually-closed loop, as is illustrated in figures 17 and 18. That makes it possible to form a cavity 30 in which the product can be collected thus making it possible to increase the load held by the applicator.
  • the application elements 18 all have the same shape, but this does not have to be the case.
  • the rows could exhibit an alternation of spikes and of application elements as described hereinabove, or a row of application elements as described hereinabove could alternate with a row of spikes on the core.
  • the application member 8 may be manufactured using a device for manufacturing by additive manufacturing from a digital model of the application member 8.
  • the digital model faithfully represents the application member 8 in three dimensions, and may be generated using computer-assisted design software such as SolidWorks 3D.
  • the manufacturing device 50 may comprise a printing substrate 51, a distributor 53 of powder material intended to supply a layer of powder material 63 onto the printing substrate 51, a first distributor 55 for delivering one or more coalescence agents 65 onto the layer of powder material 63, a second distributor 57 for providing one or more coalescence modifiers 67, and an energy source 59.
  • the distributor 53 of powder material deposits a first layer of powder material 63 over the entire surface of the printing substrate 51, as illustrated in figure 19a, by moving the material distributor 53 along the axis Y'.
  • One or more coalescence agents 65 and/or coalescence modifiers 67 are then deposited on parts of the layer 63, as shown in figure 19a, by moving the associated distributors along the axis Y'.
  • the parts of the layer 63 on which the agents 65 and modifiers 67 are deposited are determined as a function of the digital model previously formed.
  • coalescence agents 65 and coalescence modifiers 67 have been deposited, they penetrate the layer 63 at least partially, as can be seen in figure 19b. Finally, energy is applied to the whole of the layer 63 using the source 51. Applying this energy causes at least partial fusion of the parts to which the coalescence agent or agents 65 have been applied, thus allowing, once the layer has cooled, the molten parts to solidify as shown in figure 19c.
  • the modifiers 67 make it possible to obtain distinct edges of the fused zones by preventing fusion of the peripheral zones.
  • a new layer 73 of powder material is deposited on the layer 63 treated previously, as illustrated in figure 19d. The process explained above may then be repeated to generate the three-dimensional application member layer by layer as illustrated in figures 19d-f.
  • the substrate 51 moves along the axis z in such a way that, as new layers of material are deposited, a predefined gap is maintained between the surface of the layer deposited most recently and the dispensers 55 and 57.
  • the substrate 51 does not move along the axis z and the dispensers 55 and 57 may be able to move along this axis.
  • the application member 8 is manufactured by means of this device from its proximal end 13, i.e. the end intended to be attached to the stem 7, to its distal end 11.
  • proximal end 13 i.e. the end intended to be attached to the stem 7, to its distal end 11.
  • distal end 11 i.e. the end intended to be attached to the stem 7.
  • the application member 8 is manufactured using a different device for manufacture by additive manufacturing, notably by light irradiation of a photocurable material, as illustrated in figures 21 and 22.
  • the manufacturing device may comprise a light source 40, a vat 42 arranged above the light source 40 and a substrate 46.
  • the vat 42 is at least partially transparent to the radiation emitted by the light source. It contains a liquid photocurable material 44.
  • the light source 40 is operated in accordance with the digital model to crosslink the liquid material 44 in a build zone between the substrate 46 and the plate 42, following a pattern dependent on the digital model.
  • the crosslinked parts of the liquid material 44 are solid.
  • the support 46 dips into the liquid material 44, and the build zone is in contact with the substrate 46 such that the liquid material 44 is crosslinked onto the support 46 and attaches to the latter.
  • the substrate 46 is moved away from the light source 40 at the speed of manufacture of the application member 8, such that the crosslinked parts are manufactured in successive layers, each layer crosslinked attaching to the preceding layer.
  • the vat 42 may have a surface 48 between the substrate 46 and the light source 40 which is in fluidic communication with a source of polymerization inhibitor, notably a source of oxygen.
  • a source of polymerization inhibitor notably a source of oxygen.
  • the polymerization inhibitor makes it possible to keep liquid material 44 in liquid form by preventing it from polymerizing by light irradiation, in a fluid zone of non-zero thickness.
  • This fluid zone extends from the surface 48 to the build zone and allows the liquid to flow toward the build zone.
  • the fluid zone has a height of between 10 pm and 100 pm.
  • the interface between the fluid zone and the build zone is not distinct but may be formed with a polymerization gradient.
  • the substrate 46 is moved continuously and the irradiation by the light source 40 is continuous.
  • the application member 8 is manufactured using this installation, from its proximal end 13 to its distal end 11. The reverse is also possible.
  • the application member 8 After the application member 8 has been manufactured, it is detached from the substrate 46 and heated to harden and smooth out the structure.
  • a manufacturing process of this type, suitable for manufacture of the applicator, is notably described in international applications WO2014126830 and WO2014126837.
  • the application member 8 is manufactured using a different device for manufacture by additive manufacturing, notably by filament deposition printing (FDM), stereolithography (SLA) or selective laser sintering (SLS).
  • FDM filament deposition printing
  • SLA stereolithography
  • SLS selective laser sintering
  • the invention is not limited to the exemplary embodiments described hereinabove.
  • the device may comprise a reservoir of product and the applicator may be mounted by its proximal end 13 on the reservoir.
  • the applicator has a hollow core and at least one opening allowing the supply of cosmetic product to the applicator.

Abstract

L'invention concerne un applicateur (2) qui permet d'appliquer un produit cosmétique sur les cils et/ou les sourcils et qui comprend un élément d'application (8) comportant : - un noyau (10) qui s'étend le long d'un axe longitudinal (X), - une pluralité d'éléments d'application (18) s'étendant à partir du noyau (8), les éléments d'application (18) comportant : - un corps (20) comprenant une partie distale non rectiligne (20b), et - au moins une protubérance (22a ; 22b) s'étendant latéralement à partir du corps (20).
PCT/EP2019/086453 2018-12-19 2019-12-19 Applicateur permettant d'appliquer un produit cosmétique sur les cils et/ou les sourcils WO2020127830A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR1873456A FR3090294B1 (fr) 2018-12-19 2018-12-19 Applicateur pour appliquer un produit cosmétique sur les cils et/ou sourcils
FR1873456 2018-12-19

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO2020127830A1 true WO2020127830A1 (fr) 2020-06-25

Family

ID=66641068

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
PCT/EP2019/086453 WO2020127830A1 (fr) 2018-12-19 2019-12-19 Applicateur permettant d'appliquer un produit cosmétique sur les cils et/ou les sourcils

Country Status (2)

Country Link
FR (1) FR3090294B1 (fr)
WO (1) WO2020127830A1 (fr)

Citations (10)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR2505633A1 (fr) 1981-05-18 1982-11-19 Oreal Brosse a cils perfectionnee, procede pour sa fabrication et dispositif pour la mise en oeuvre de ce procede
EP1070468A1 (fr) 1999-07-21 2001-01-24 L'oreal Dispositif pour l'application d'un produit sur les cils ou les sourcils
EP1342428A1 (fr) 2002-03-05 2003-09-10 L'oreal Dispositif pour peigner et/ou brosser les cils et/ou les sourcils et/ou appliquer un produit sur ceux-ci
WO2014126837A2 (fr) 2013-02-12 2014-08-21 Eipi Systems, Inc. Impression à interface liquide continue
WO2014126830A2 (fr) 2013-02-12 2014-08-21 Eipi Systems, Inc. Procédé et appareil pour fabrication en trois dimensions
WO2015106816A1 (fr) 2014-01-16 2015-07-23 Hewlett-Packard Development Company, L.P. Génération d'un objet tridimensionnel
WO2015110853A1 (fr) * 2014-01-21 2015-07-30 Montaigu Developpement Dispositif applicateur permettant d'appliquer un produit fluide ou pâteux sur des fibres kératiniques
WO2017003506A1 (fr) * 2015-06-30 2017-01-05 Elc Management Llc Tête de brosse à mascara moulée comportant des saillies en forme de râteau
WO2017098134A1 (fr) 2015-12-07 2017-06-15 Chanel Parfums Beaute Applicateur de produit cosmetique comprenant des protuberances en boucle
WO2018210695A1 (fr) * 2017-05-16 2018-11-22 L'oreal Applicateur permettant d'appliquer un produit sur les cils

Patent Citations (10)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR2505633A1 (fr) 1981-05-18 1982-11-19 Oreal Brosse a cils perfectionnee, procede pour sa fabrication et dispositif pour la mise en oeuvre de ce procede
EP1070468A1 (fr) 1999-07-21 2001-01-24 L'oreal Dispositif pour l'application d'un produit sur les cils ou les sourcils
EP1342428A1 (fr) 2002-03-05 2003-09-10 L'oreal Dispositif pour peigner et/ou brosser les cils et/ou les sourcils et/ou appliquer un produit sur ceux-ci
WO2014126837A2 (fr) 2013-02-12 2014-08-21 Eipi Systems, Inc. Impression à interface liquide continue
WO2014126830A2 (fr) 2013-02-12 2014-08-21 Eipi Systems, Inc. Procédé et appareil pour fabrication en trois dimensions
WO2015106816A1 (fr) 2014-01-16 2015-07-23 Hewlett-Packard Development Company, L.P. Génération d'un objet tridimensionnel
WO2015110853A1 (fr) * 2014-01-21 2015-07-30 Montaigu Developpement Dispositif applicateur permettant d'appliquer un produit fluide ou pâteux sur des fibres kératiniques
WO2017003506A1 (fr) * 2015-06-30 2017-01-05 Elc Management Llc Tête de brosse à mascara moulée comportant des saillies en forme de râteau
WO2017098134A1 (fr) 2015-12-07 2017-06-15 Chanel Parfums Beaute Applicateur de produit cosmetique comprenant des protuberances en boucle
WO2018210695A1 (fr) * 2017-05-16 2018-11-22 L'oreal Applicateur permettant d'appliquer un produit sur les cils

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
FR3090294A1 (fr) 2020-06-26
FR3090294B1 (fr) 2021-04-30

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