WO2020075785A1

WO2020075785A1 - Elasticity-imparting skin preparation for external use

Info

Publication number: WO2020075785A1
Application number: PCT/JP2019/039920
Authority: WO
Inventors: ゆかり齊藤; 智子池田
Original assignee: 株式会社資生堂
Priority date: 2018-10-10
Filing date: 2019-10-09
Publication date: 2020-04-16
Also published as: JPWO2020075785A1

Abstract

The purpose of the present invention is to provide a skin preparation for external use, said preparation being capable of imparting elasticity to the skin to which the preparation is applied and having a smooth feeling of use. The elasticity-imparting skin preparation for external use according to the present invention is characterized by comprising: (a) 2.5-10 mass% of an oil-soluble film-forming agent; and (b) 0.5-10 mass% of a water-swelling clay mineral.

Description

External preparation for skin that gives firmness

The present invention relates to an external preparation for skin which gives a feeling of firmness to the applied skin and has a good feeling in use.

The firmness of the skin is maintained by the collagen fibers and elastin fibers (elastic fibers) of the dermis under the epidermis, but when the epidermis becomes chronically dry or the elasticity of the dermis decreases, the epidermis becomes uneven, Appears as wrinkles and sagging. In the field of cosmetics, smoothing the unevenness of the skin and making the unevenness visually inconspicuous are used to improve the makeup lasting and adjust the aesthetic appearance.

For example, Patent Document 1 proposes an unevenness-correcting skin external preparation containing a specific volatile oil content, a wax, and a silicone-based film agent, and by adding a large amount of a wax and a volatile oil content, The softness and feel of use have been improved, and the unevenness has been made visually inconspicuous. However, such cosmetics only adjust the aesthetics and do not give a firm feeling.

In addition, Patent Document 2 proposes a skin care cosmetic that forms a film on the skin to produce a firmness. In such cosmetics, a filming agent is often blended, but when a large amount of the filming agent is contained, the adhesion to the skin is excellent, but the ability to follow the movement of the skin is deteriorated or the film becomes brittle. The problem arises. After solving this problem, no study has been made on providing a makeup effect with a feeling of firmness and further maintaining the effect for a long time.

There is a need for an external preparation that can produce a makeup effect while producing a sufficient firmness, and has improved usability.

JP, 2010-229094, A JP, 2005-193542, A

An object of the present invention is to provide an external preparation for skin which can give a firmness to the applied skin and has a smooth feeling of use.

As a result of intensive studies to solve the above-mentioned problems, the inventors of the present invention added a combination of an oil-soluble film forming agent and a water-swelling clay mineral to give a firm feeling to the coated surface immediately after coating. At the same time, they found that they had a smooth feeling of use, and completed the present invention.

That is, the present invention is
A skin external preparation for imparting a firmness, comprising (a) 2.5 to 10% by mass of an oil-soluble film forming agent (b) 0.5 to 10% by mass of a water-swelling clay mineral.

With the above-mentioned structure, the present invention can provide an external preparation for imparting a firmness to the applied skin. Since this firmness is felt immediately after application, the user can obtain an effective feeling that fine wrinkles are extended immediately after use. In addition, the external preparation according to the present invention has no stickiness, can be spread smoothly, and is excellent in feeling in use.

The external preparation of the present invention is characterized by containing (a) an oil-soluble film forming agent and (b) a water-swellable clay mineral. Hereinafter, each component constituting the external preparation of the present invention will be described in detail.

<(A) Oil-soluble film forming agent>
The oil-soluble film forming agent (a) (hereinafter sometimes simply referred to as “(a) component”) to be blended with the external preparation according to the present invention is usually used as a film forming agent in cosmetics, It is soluble. Examples include, but are not limited to, trimethylsiloxysilicic acid, siliconized pullulan, (acrylates / dimethicone) copolymers, silsesquion sun-based polymers, and the like.

As the (a) oil-soluble film forming agent of the present invention, it is preferable to use an oil-soluble film forming agent selected from trimethylsiloxysilicic acid and siliconized pullulan. Among them, it is more preferable to use trimethylsiloxysilicic acid from the viewpoint of stability.

As the trimethylsiloxysilicic acid that can be used in the present invention, those produced by a known production method can be used.
Examples of commercially available products include X-21-5250 (50% decamethylcyclopentasiloxane solution, manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.), X-21-5250L (50% dimethicone solution, manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.), X-21. -5616 (60% isododecane solution, manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.), X-21-5249 (50% decamethylcyclopentasiloxane solution, manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.), X-21-5249L (50% dimethicone solution, Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.) Kogyo Co., Ltd.), KF-7312 (50% decamethylcyclopentasiloxane solution, manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.), KF-7312K (60% dimethicone solution, manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.), KF-7312L (50% dimethicone solution, Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.), KF-7312T (60% methyltrimethicone solution, Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.), X-21-55 5 (60% isododecane solution, manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.), KF-9021 (50% decamethylcyclopentasiloxane solution, manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.), KF-9021L (50% dimethicone solution, manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.), MQ-1600 Solid Resin (100% pure, manufactured by Toray Dow Silicone), Wacker-Belsil TMS803 (100% pure, manufactured by Asahi Kasei Wacker Silicone) and the like.

The silicone-bonded pullulan that can be used in the present invention has a different bonding ratio of the silicone compound to the reactive functional group of pullulan depending on the type thereof, but usually, the average number of bonds of the silicone compound per unit sugar constituting the polysaccharide compound (degree of substitution) ) Is preferably 0.5 to 3.0. In the present invention, the substitution degree is calculated from the Si content (mass%) in the compound.

As the siliconized pullulan, one produced by a known production method can be used (for example, JP-A-10-29910).
In addition, when compounding the silicone-containing pullulan, if it is dissolved in a low molecular weight silicone oil or light isoparaffin, the ease of compounding and the feeling of use can be improved.

The siliconized pullulan that can be used in the present invention is preferably tri (trimethylsiloxy) silylpropylcarbamate pullulan.
Examples of commercially available products include TSPL-30-ID (tri (trimethylsiloxy) silylpropylcarbamic acid pullulan, 30% isododecane solution, manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.), TSPL-30-D5 (tri (trimethylsiloxy) silylpropylcarbamide). Acid pullulan, a 30% decamethylcyclopentasiloxane solution, manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.).

As the oil-soluble film forming agent of the present invention, one kind may be used alone, or two or more kinds may be used in combination.
The blending amount of the component (a) is, based on the total amount of the external preparation, 2.5 to 10% by mass, preferably 3.5 to 7.5% by mass. If the blending amount of the component (a) is less than 2.5% by mass, the firmness of the skin after application is not obtained, and if it is more than 10% by mass, the elongation of the external preparation when applied to the skin becomes poor. It is not preferable from the point.

<(B) Water-swellable clay mineral>
The (b) water-swelling clay mineral (hereinafter, sometimes simply referred to as “(b) component”) to be blended in the external preparation according to the present invention is a layered silicate mineral belonging to the genus Smectite, and is generally There are montmorillonite, pyriderite, nontronite, laponite, hectorite, bentonite and the like, which may be natural or synthetic.

Commercially available products include Kunipia, Smecton (all manufactured by Kunimine Industry Co., Ltd.), Laponite (manufactured by Laporte Co., Ltd.), synthetic sodium fluorophlogopite (Submica E: Daito Kasei Kogyo Co., Ltd.), Veegum Ultra Granules (Vanderbilt Co., Ltd.). Manufactured) etc. Of these, smectone and laponite are particularly preferable.

The blending amount of the component (b) is 0.5 to 10% by mass, preferably 0.5 to 3% by mass, based on the total amount of the external preparation. If the blending amount is less than 0.5% by mass, spreadability will be poor, and if it exceeds 10% by mass, stability will be poor.

In the external preparation of the present invention, in addition to the above-mentioned components, if necessary, a surfactant, a lower alcohol (such as ethanol), a moisturizer, an oil component, an ultraviolet absorber, an ultraviolet scattering agent, a powder component, a thickening agent. Commonly used in external compositions such as agents, antioxidants, preservatives, bactericides, pH adjusters, vitamins, blood circulation promoters, whitening agents, skin activating agents, medicinal ingredients, extracts from animals and plants, pigments, fragrances, etc. Ingredients that are conventionally used can be added within a range that does not impair the effects of the present invention. However, it is not limited to these examples.

Above all, it is preferable to add a humectant since the flexibility of the film formed by the film agent is improved and the film is less likely to be broken.
Specific examples of the moisturizer include glycols such as propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1,4-butylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol and polyethylene glycol; glycerin, diglycerin, polyglycerin and the like. Glycerins; sugar alcohols such as sorbitol, mannitol, maltitol, xylitol, and erythritol; sugars such as fructose, glucose, galactose, maltose, lactose, and trehalose.
When a moisturizer is added to the external preparation of the present invention, the content thereof is 20% by mass or less, preferably 0.5 to 20% by mass, based on the total amount of the external preparation. If the blending amount is too small, the flexibility tends not to be improved, and if it exceeds 20% by mass, the firmness tends to be poor.

In the external preparation of the present invention, various powder components that are usually blended in cosmetics may be blended. The powder component is blended for the purpose of improving usability, coloring, light scattering and the like.
As the powder component, for example, Risoru Rubin BCA (Red No. 202), Lake Red C (Red No. 203), Lake Red CBA (Red No. 204), Resole Red (No. Red 205), Resole Red CA (No. Red 206), Resole Red BA (Red No. 207), Resole Red SR (Red No. 208), Brilliant Lake Red (R Red 219), Deep Maroon (Red No. 220), Toluidine Red (Red No. 221), Permaton Red (Red No. 228). No.), Permanent Orange (daidai 203), Bengin Orange G (dai 204), Bengin Yellow G (yellow 205), Brilliant Fast Scarlet (red 404), Permanent Red F5R (red 405). , Hansa Orange (daidai 40 No.), Hansa Yellow (Yellow No. 401), Phthalocyanine Blue (Blue No. 404) and other organic pigments, crushed clay minerals such as mica, sericite, talc and kaolin, silicic anhydride, cerium oxide, silica, stearic acid Extender pigments such as zinc, synthetic talc, barium sulfate, bismuth oxychloride, alumina, magnesium carbonate, iron oxide (red iron oxide), iron titanate, γ-iron oxide, yellow iron oxide, ocher, black iron oxide, carbon, low order Coloring pigments such as titanium oxide, mango violet, cobalt violet, chromium oxide, chromium hydroxide, cobalt titanate, ultramarine blue and dark blue, white pigments such as titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, titanium dioxide coated mica (titanium mica), iron oxide coated Pearlescent pigments such as mica titanium, polyethylene terephthalate / aluminum / epoxy product Layered powders, laminating agents such as polyethylene terephthalate / aluminum laminated powders, iron-containing synthetic fluorophlogopite, and functional pigments such as fine particle composite powders can be used. In the present invention, one or more of these powder components may be used, and the powder components may be surface-treated.
However, in order to maximize the firmness sensation provided by the external preparation of the present invention, when the powder component is blended, the blending amount is preferably 20% by mass or less based on the total amount of the external preparation. Further, when the external preparation of the present invention is prepared as a makeup cosmetic, the compounding amount is preferably 5 to 20% by mass relative to the total amount of the external preparation.

From the viewpoint of improving the smooth feeling of use of the external preparation of the present invention, it is preferable to add a cross-linking siloxane elastomer. The crosslinkable siloxane elastomer is a siloxane elastomer (silicone elastomer) obtained by three-dimensionally crosslinking polydimethylsiloxane, and includes emulsifying and non-emulsifying ones, and is not particularly limited.
Examples of the emulsifying crosslinkable siloxane elastomer include polyoxyethylene methyl polysiloxane crosspolymer, alkyl group-containing polyoxyethylene methyl polysiloxane crosspolymer, polyglycerin-modified silicone crosspolymer, and alkyl group-containing polyglycerin-modified silicone crosspolymer. As the non-emulsifying cross-linking type siloxane elastomer, methyl polysiloxane crosspolymer, methylphenyl polysiloxane crosspolymer, vinyl dimethicone / lauryl dimethicone crosspolymer, lauryl polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone / bis-vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, alkyl (C30- 45) Cetearyl dimethicone crosspolymer, cetearyl dimethicone crosspolymer and the like. As the crosslinkable siloxane elastomer, those commercially available in the form of a swollen product swollen with various oil components such as silicone oil, mineral oil, triethylhexanoin, squalane can be used.

Commercially available products of the crosslinkable siloxane elastomer compounded in the external preparation of the present invention are a mixture of KSG-210 (((PEG-10 / 15) / dimethicone) crosspolymer and dimethicone, and the crosslinked product is 20 to 30%. Chemical Industry Co., Ltd.), KSG-360Z ((PEG-15 / lauryl polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone) crosspolymer, dimethicone crosslinked product is 30-40%, Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.), KSG-710 ((dimethicone) / Polyglycerin-3) A mixture of crosspolymer and dimethicone, the crosslinked product is 20 to 30%, manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd., 9045 silicone elastomer blend (dimethicone crosspolymer, a mixture of cyclopentasiloxane and the crosslinked product is 12.6%. Manufactured by Toray Dow Corning Co., Ltd.).

When the cross-linking siloxane elastomer is blended with the external preparation of the present invention, the blending amount is actually 12% by mass or less, preferably 0.25 to 12% by mass, based on the total amount of the external preparation. . If the blending amount is too small, the smooth feel during use cannot be sufficiently improved during application, and if it exceeds 12% by mass, the firmness tends to be poor.

In the external preparation of the present invention, the proportion of the oil phase relative to the total amount of the external preparation is preferably 60% by mass or more, more preferably 60 to 75% by mass. By increasing the ratio of the oil phase, a more stable external preparation can be obtained. Here, the oil phase refers to a mixture of an oily component mixed in the external preparation and a dispersion dispersed in the oily component.

Examples of the dosage form of the external preparation of the present invention include an oily type, a water-in-oil type such as a cream or an oil-in-water type emulsion type, and any of the dosage forms gives a firm feeling to the applied skin. It can be effective. Among them, a more stable external preparation can be obtained by using a water-in-oil type emulsion type.

Further, the external preparation of the present invention can be used not only as a skin care cosmetic but also as a base of various cosmetics, and provides a sunscreen cosmetic, a makeup base, a foundation, and a makeup that gives a firm feeling. It can be prepared as a cosmetic or the like.

Since the external preparation according to the present invention does not cause powder dripping even when applied from above a foundation or the like, it can be applied overlaid on makeup-provided skin, and makeup is applied as one of daily skin care. It can also be used by directly applying it on the skin that does not exist.

The external preparation of the present invention can be manufactured according to a conventionally used method. Briefly, when the external preparation of the present invention is prepared as a water-in-oil type emulsion cosmetic, an oily component and an aqueous component are separately mixed while heating as necessary, and water is added to the oil phase. It can be produced by emulsifying the phases and then filling the obtained emulsion in a container and gradually cooling.

The present invention will be described in more detail below with reference to examples, but the present invention is not limited to these. Unless otherwise specified, the blending amount is indicated by mass% based on the system in which the component is blended.

Prior to the examples, the evaluation method used in the present invention will be described.
1. Feeling of firmness It was evaluated by an actual use test by a professional panel of 10 people. Specifically, the prepared sample was applied to the face of a specialty panel with a finger, and the presence or absence of firmness on the applied skin was evaluated according to the following evaluation criteria.
<Evaluation criteria>
A: Eight or more people answered that they felt firm.
B: 4 to 7 people answered that they felt firm.
C: 0 to 3 people answered that they felt firm.

2. Smoothness It was evaluated by an actual use test by a professional panel of 10 persons. Specifically, the prepared sample was applied to the face of a professional panel with a finger, and the smooth feeling of use when spreading was evaluated according to the following evaluation criteria.
A: Eight or more people answered that they felt smooth.
B: 4 to 7 people answered that they felt smooth.
C: 0 to 3 people answered that they felt smooth.

3. Stability After preparation, the state of the preparation after standing at 50 ° C. for 2 weeks was visually evaluated.
A: No separation of oil and water was observed, and the state immediately after preparation was maintained.
B: Separation of oil and water was slightly observed.
C: Oil and water were separated and conspicuous.

4. No stickiness It was evaluated by an actual use test by 10 professional panels. Specifically, the prepared sample was applied to the face of a specialized panel with a finger, and the presence or absence of stickiness on the applied surface was evaluated according to the following evaluation criteria.
A: Eight or more people answered that they felt no stickiness.
B: 4 to 7 people answered that they felt no stickiness.
C: 0 to 3 people answered that they felt no stickiness.

(Examples and comparative examples)
Compositions of water-in-oil type emulsion cosmetics shown in Tables 1 and 2 below were prepared. Specifically, the powder was dispersed in the mixed oil component using a homomixer, and then the well mixed aqueous component was added to obtain a composition.

^{* 1} Trimethylsiloxysilicic acid Real content 50%, Cyclopentasiloxane mixture
^{* 2} Pullulan tri (trimethylsiloxy) silylpropylcarbamate Actual 30%, cyclopentasiloxane mixture
^{* 3} Dimethicone crosspolymer 12.5%, cyclopentasiloxane mixture
^{* 4} Laponite

Trimethylsiloxysilicic acid or tri (trimethylsiloxy) silylpropylcarbamate pullulan is used as (a) the oil-soluble film forming agent of the present invention, and (b) silicic acid (Li / Mg / Na) (laponite) as the water-swellable clay mineral. The cosmetics of Examples 1 and 2 using No. 1 were able to feel a firmness immediately after application, and a smooth feel was obtained.

On the other hand, the cosmetic composition containing no (a) component (Comparative Example 1) did not give a firm feeling, and the cosmetic composition containing no (b) component (Comparative Example 2) did not provide a smooth feel. It was Further, a cosmetic (Comparative Example 3) containing 25% by mass of trimethylsiloxysilicic acid which is the component (a), that is, 12.5% by mass as a component (comparative example 3) did not give a smooth feel, and thus 4% by mass In the cosmetic (Comparative Example 4) containing only 2% by mass, the firmness was not obtained. Further, when the content of the component (b) is more than 10% by mass, the stability of the cosmetic is deteriorated (Comparative Example 5), and when it is less than 0.5% by mass, a smooth feel cannot be obtained (Comparative Example 6). ).

^{* 5} Smecton

Regarding the water phase thickener, when the component (b) of the present invention was replaced with another water phase thickener (Comparative Examples 7 to 9), the firmness and smooth feel on use were inferior, and stickiness occurred. .
On the other hand, Examples 3 and 4 in which the component (a) and the component (b) of the present invention were blended were excellent in firmness, usability and stability.

(Prescription example)
Below, the prescription example of the water-in-oil type emulsion cosmetics of this invention is given. It goes without saying that the present invention is not limited by these formulation examples and is specified by the scope of claims. All blending amounts are expressed as mass% based on the total amount of the product.

Formulation Example 1. (Foundation)
(Ingredient name) Blended amount (%)
Cyclomethicone Residual diphenylsiloxyphenyltrimethicone 2
Trimethylsiloxysilicic acid ^* 18
PEG-10 Dimethicone 3
Dimethicone crosspolymer 12.5% / cyclopentasiloxane 10
Talc 5
Zinc oxide ^* 65
Wax 3
Water 15
1,3-butylene glycol 5
Silicic acid (Li / Mg / Na) ^* 41
Hydrophobicized fine particles titanium oxide 4
Hydrophobized pigment grade titanium oxide 6
Hydrophobized yellow iron oxide 0.4
Hydrophobized red iron oxide 0.1
Hydrophobic treatment Black iron oxide 0.02
(Vinyl dimethicone / methicone silsesquioxane) crosspolymer 2
Nylon-12 2
Dimethylsilylated silica 0.5
Sorbitan sesquiisostearate 2
Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 5
^{* 1} Trimethylsiloxysilicic acid Real content 50%, Cyclopentasiloxane mixture
^{* 4} Laponite
^{* 6} Zinhua AZO-BS (manufactured by Shodo Chemical Industry Co., Ltd.)

Prescription example 2. (Concealer)
(Ingredient name) Blended amount (%)
Cyclomethicone Residual diphenylsiloxyphenyltrimethicone 2
Trimethylsiloxysilicic acid ^* 18
PEG-10 Dimethicone 3
(Dimethicone / Polyglycerin-3) Crosspolymer / Dimethicone 15
Talc 5
Zinc oxide ^* 75
Wax 3
Water 15
1,3-butylene glycol 5
Silicic acid (Li / Mg / Na) ^* 41
Hydrophobized pigment grade titanium oxide 12
Hydrophobized yellow iron oxide 0.4
Hydrophobized red iron oxide 0.1
Hydrophobic treatment Black iron oxide 0.02
Sorbitan sesquiisostearate 2
^{* 7} Candy Zinc 1000 (made by Sakai Chemical Industry Co., Ltd.)

Prescription example 3. (Eye shadow)
(Ingredient name) Blended amount (%)
Cyclomethicone Residual diphenylsiloxyphenyltrimethicone 2
Trimethylsiloxysilicic acid ^* 18
PEG-10 Dimethicone 3
(Dimethicone / (PEG-10 / 15)) Crosspolymer / Dimethicone 10
Talc 5
Zinc oxide ^* 75
Wax 3
Water 15
1,3-butylene glycol 5
Silicic acid (Li / Mg / Na) ^* 41
Silicone-treated red iron oxide coated mica titanium 5
Silicone-treated red iron oxide coated mica mica 5
Sorbitan sesquiisostearate 2

Formulation Example 4. (Sunscreen)
(Ingredient name) Blended amount (%)
Cyclomethicone Residual diphenylsiloxyphenyltrimethicone 2
Trimethylsiloxysilicic acid ^* 18
PEG-10 Dimethicone 3
PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone 2
Dimethicone crosspolymer 12.5% / cyclopentasiloxane 10
Talc 5
Zinc oxide ^* 85
Wax 3
Water 15
1,3-butylene glycol 5
Silicic acid (Li / Mg / Na) ^* 41
Hydrophobicized fine particles titanium oxide 10
Hydrophobized pigment grade titanium oxide 3
Sorbitan sesquiisostearate 2
Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 7.5
^{* 8} WSX-MZ-700 (manufactured by Teika)

Prescription example 5. (SC cream)
(Ingredient name) Blended amount (%)
Cyclomethicone Residual diphenylsiloxyphenyltrimethicone 2
Trimethylsiloxysilicic acid ^* 18
PEG-10 Dimethicone 3
Dimethicone crosspolymer 12.5% / cyclopentasiloxane 10
(Dimethicone / (PEG-10 / 15)) Crosspolymer / Dimethicone 15
Talc 5
Zinc oxide ^* 75
Wax 3
Water 15
1,3-butylene glycol 5
Glycerin 3
Carboxymethyl cellulose 0.1
Silicic acid (Li / Mg / Na) ^* 41

Claims

A skin external preparation for imparting a firmness, comprising (a) 2.5 to 10% by mass of an oil-soluble film forming agent (b) 0.5 to 10% by mass of a water-swelling clay mineral.
The external preparation according to claim 1, further comprising (c) a moisturizing agent in an amount of 0.5 to 20% by mass.
Furthermore, (d) 20 mass% or less of powder components are mix | blended, The external preparation of Claim 1 or 2.
The external preparation according to any one of claims 1 to 3, further comprising (e) a crosslinkable siloxane elastomer.