WO2020074158A1

WO2020074158A1 - A cosmetic composition with a milky or opaque appearance

Info

Publication number: WO2020074158A1
Application number: PCT/EP2019/072219
Authority: WO
Inventors: Weidong Song; Liang Chen
Original assignee: Beiersdorf Ag
Priority date: 2018-10-10
Filing date: 2019-08-20
Publication date: 2020-04-16
Also published as: WO2020073214A1

Abstract

The present invention belongs to the cosmetic field and relates to a cosmetic composition comprising a) at least one amino acid surfactant according to formula (I), wherein R is an alkyl chain containing 10 to 20 carbon atoms and M+ is an alkali metal ion or an ammonium ion; and b) calcium chloride. The cosmetic composition provides a milky or opaque appearance.

Description

A cosmetic composition with a milky or opaque appearance

Technical Field

The present invention belongs to the cosmetic field and relates to a cosmetic composition comprising an environmentally friendly opacifier based on an amino acid surfactant and calcium chloride.

Background Art

A beautiful and attractive appearance is a desire for many people. One typical sign of such an appearance is a healthy and smooth looking skin. Therefore, in order to take care on the skin, it is for many people a daily routine to apply cosmetic products such as cleansing and moisturizing products.

In the development process of cosmetic compositions cosmetic companies mainly focus on the performance of the products, for example, in that the cosmetic compositions provide a specific caring effect or are efficient in cleansing the skin while being mild at the same time. However, it is well known that besides the performance of the cosmetic products their optically appearance is a decisive aspect for customers to buy the products. Therefore, it is essential for the market impact of the cosmetic products that they have unique optical appearance making them outstanding for the consumer.

Looking back in the history of the world, it was reported that Cleopatra, as ruler of the Ptolemaic Kingdom of Egypt, was already bathing in donkey milk to clean her skin. Whether it comes from this historical transmission, that milk is perceived as particularly skin-caring, can be left open in itself. Nevertheless, it is a fact that consumers today often perceive cosmetic cleansing products that have an opaque or milky appearance as particularly caring for their skin.

In order to provide cleansing compositions which have an opaque, turbid or milky appearance it is a common approach to disperse opacifier in the compositions. However, the opacifier mostly used in cleansing products has a number of drawbacks.

One opacifier typically contained in the cosmetic cleansing composition is styrene/acrylates copolymer. An opacifier concentrate containing styrene/acrylates copolymer is for example disclosed in US20070128144 A1. Further opacifiers based on styrene polymers are disclosed in WO2015130735 A1. The drawback of styrene based polymers is that they fall in the category of particulate micro plastic, which may be released via the sewage system and water treatment into the environment. Therefore, to protect the environment the use of these particulate micro plastic based polymers is generally not desirable.

Another well-known opacifier is PEG-3 distearate. However, the use of substances substituted with polyethylene glycol units is also not desirable as those substances are suspected to weaken the skin’s barrier function. Therefore, PEG-3 distearate is rated with the word“critical” by consumer portals such as codecheck.com.

Following the description above it can be noted that it is generally desirable to provide new kinds of opacifiers to be used in cleansing compositions which do neither suffer the disadvantage of being rated as environmentally critical, such as micro plastic, nor are suspected to weaken the skin’s barrier function.

Summary of the Invention

Therefore, the objective of the present invention is the provision of a new kind of opacifier which makes it possible to give a cosmetic cleansing composition a milky or opaque appearance. Another objective of the present invention is the provision of a cosmetic cleansing composition, which has an opaque and/or milky appearance.

It was surprisingly found by the applicant that the objectives can be solved by the present invention.

A first aspect of the invention is a cosmetic composition, preferably a cleansing composition, comprising

a) at least one amino acid surfactant according to formula (I)

wherein R is an alkyl chain containing 10 to 20 carbon atoms and M⁺ is an alkali metal ion or an ammonium ion; and

b) calcium chloride. Another aspect of the present invention is the use of the combination of

a) at least one amino acid surfactant according to formula (I),

b) calcium chloride

to form a turbid or milky looking cosmetic composition, preferably a cleansing composition.

It was surprisingly noticed by the applicant that by adding the inventive combination to a cosmetic composition, the appearance of the cosmetic composition turns turbid/milky. Hence, according to the invention the combination of a) at least one amino acid surfactant according to formula (I), wherein R is an alkyl chain containing 10 to 20 carbon atoms and M⁺ is an alkali metal ion or an ammonium ion; and b) calcium chloride, can be used as an opacifier for the cosmetic composition.

Unless otherwise stated, all tests and measurements were performed under “normal conditions”. The term "normal conditions" refers to 20°C, 1013 hPa and a relative humidity of 50%.

All temperatures disclosed refer, unless otherwise stated, to a pressure of 1013 hPa.

If percentages by weight (% by weight) are given below without reference to a particular composition or specific mixture, these figures always refer to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. If ratios of certain components are disclosed without reference in the following description, these ratios always refer to weight ratios of the components.

If ranges for the weight of certain ingredients are disclosed, the disclosure includes not only the start and end values for the indicated ranges but also the individual values within the ranges in steps of 0.01% by weight.

The phrases "according to the invention", "advantageous according to the invention", "advantageous in the sense of the present invention", etc., refer in the context of the present disclosure always to the composition according to the invention, the use according to the invention and the method according to the invention.

According to the present invention a composition is considered to be turbid or milky, if someone cannot spot with pure human eye letters written in Arial size 10 on a sheet of paper placed directly behind a clear glass beaker of 2 cm inner diameter filled with the composition, if he or she looks through the central part of the beaker. The test is made after leaving the beaker containing the composition standing for at least 2 hours to ensure that the milky appearance does not come from swirled up particles.

The formulas according to the invention are fully stable, which means that they do not change their appearance when being stored under normal conditions for at least 5 days.

Amino acid surfactants or in other words, amino acid based surfactants, are considered as fully biodegradable and are therefore considered as environmentally friendly ingredients. The same is true for simple salts such as calcium chloride.

According to the present invention it is preferred if the amino acid surfactants a) are contained in the cosmetic composition in a total quantity of at least 1% by weight, preferably at least 1.5% by weight, more preferably at least 2% by weight and most preferably at least 3% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

Furthermore it is preferred, if the amino acid surfactants a) are contained in the cosmetic composition in a total quantity of no more than 10% by weight, preferably no more than 7.5% by weight, more preferably no more than 6% by weight and most preferably no more than 4.5% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

Accordingly it is also preferred if the total quantity of the amino acid surfactants a) is in the range from 1 % to 10% by weight, preferably from 1.5% to 7.5% by weight, more preferably from 2% to 6% by weight and most preferably from 3% to 4.5% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

For the cases that an amino acid surfactant according to formula (I), wherein R is an alkyl chain containing 10 to 20 carbon atoms and M⁺ is a sodium ion, is chosen as surfactant a), it was surprisingly found that the composition had a superior stability in comparison to the other surfactants a). Therefore, it is preferred if an amino acid surfactant according to formula (I), wherein R is an alkyl chain containing 10 to 20 carbon atoms and M⁺ is a sodium ion, is selected from the group of surfactants a). Among those surfactants sodium cocoyl glycinate is selected as most preferred surfactant from the group of surfactants a).

Hence, it is particular preferred if sodium cocoyl glycinate is contained in the cosmetic composition in a total quantity from 1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 1.5% to 7.5% by weight, more preferably from 2% to 6% by weight and most preferably from 3% to 4.5% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

A first preferred embodiment of the invention is characterized in that the cosmetic composition comprises

a) at least one amino acid surfactant selected according to formula (I),

wherein R is an alkyl chain containing 10 to 20 carbon atoms and M⁺ is a sodium ion; in a total quantity of at least 1% by weight, preferably at least 1.5% by weight, more preferably at least 2% by weight and most preferably at least 3% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition;

and

b) calcium chloride.

Within the first preferred embodiment it is preferred, if the cosmetic composition comprises a) at least one amino acid surfactant selected according to formula (I),

wherein R is an alkyl chain containing 10 to 20 carbon atoms and M⁺ is a sodium ion; in a total quantity from 1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 1.5% to 7.5% by weight, more preferably from 2% to 6% by weight and most preferably from 3% to 4.5% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition;

and

b) calcium chloride.

A second preferred embodiments of the invention is characterized in that the composition comprises

a) sodium cocoyl glycinate; and

b) calcium chloride.

Within this second preferred embodiment it is preferred, if the cosmetic composition comprises

a) sodium cocoyl glycinate in a total quantity of at least 1 % by weight, preferably at least 1.5% by weight, more preferably at least 2% by weight and most preferably at least 3% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition;

and

b) calcium chloride. Within the second preferred embodiment it is more preferred, if the cosmetic composition comprises

a) sodium cocoyl glycinate in a total quantity from 1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 1.5% to 7.5% by weight, more preferably from 2% to 6% by weight and most preferably from 3% to 4.5% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition;

and

c) calcium chloride.

The further description of the present invention relates to all individual embodiments as well as the general invention disclosed above.

According to the present invention it is advantageous, if calcium chloride is contained in a total quantity of at least 0.1 % by weight, preferably at least 0.2% by weight, more preferably at least 0.5 % by weight, still more preferably at least 0.7% by weight and most preferably at least 1 % by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

Furthermore, it is preferred if calcium chloride is contained in the cosmetic composition according to the invention in a total quantity of less than 5% by weight, more preferably less than 3.5% and most preferably less than 2% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

Consequently, it is also preferred if calcium chloride is contained in the cosmetic composition according to the invention in a total quantity from 0.1 % to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.2% to 3.5% by weight, and most preferably from 0.5% to 2% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

Additionally, it is also preferred if the ratio by weight between the surfactants a) and calcium chloride b) is in the range from 10:1 to 1 :1 , more preferably from 8:1 to 2:1 and most preferably from 6:1 to 2.8:1.

The inventive combination may preferably be used in or is preferably contained in any kinds of cleansing compositions including shower gels, shampoo products or facial cleansers. By adding the inventive compounds a turbid compositions is obtained. Accordingly the composition according to the invention is a shower gel, a shampoo product or a facial cleanser. The cosmetic compositions containing the surfactants a) and calcium chloride may further contain any ingredient(s) commonly used in such compositions.

Accordingly, it is preferred if the cosmetic composition according to the invention further contains sodium laureth sulfate as further surfactants, whereby it is further preferred, if sodium laureth sulfate is contained in the cosmetic composition in a total quantity from 4% to 12% by weight, more preferably from 6% to 10% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

Furthermore, it is preferred according to the present invention if the cosmetic composition further comprises cocamidopropyl betaine, whereby the total quantity of cocamidopropyl betaine is preferably in the range from 0.5% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1.5% to 5% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

In further preferred embodiments of the invention it is preferred if the cosmetic composition is thickened by adding sodium chloride to the composition. Accordingly it is preferred if sodium chloride is contained in the cosmetic composition of the present invention in a total quantity from 0.5% to 1.5% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

Furthermore, in some embodiments of the invention it is preferred according to the invention if the composition comprises PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil. If PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil is contained in the composition according to the invention, it is further preferred if the total quantity of PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil is in the range from 0.05% to 0.8% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

It is further preferred if the cosmetic composition comprises sodium benzoate. If sodium benzoate is contained in the composition, it is preferred if the total quantity of sodium benzoate is in the range from 0.05% to 0.8% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

Preferred cosmetic compositions may further beneficially comprise phenoxyethanol, whereby it is further preferred if the total quantity of phenoxyethanol is in the range from 0.2% to 0.8% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

Furthermore, it is also preferred, if the cosmetic composition comprises glycerol in a total quantity from 2% to 8% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition. For pH-adjustments it is further preferred if the cosmetic composition contains citric acid and/or sodium hydroxide.

According to the present invention it is also preferred if the composition comprises at least one polysaccharide selected from the group of gellan gum, carrageenan and pectin.

Gellan gum is a water-soluble anionic polysaccharide produced by the bacterium Sphingomonas elodea (formerly Pseudomonas elodea). Basically gellan gum is a linear polysaccharide, wherein the repeating unit of the polymer is a tetrasaccharide consisting of one L-rhamnose, one D-glucuronic acid and two D-glucose units, which may be esterified with acetic acid and glyceric acid.

Following the description above, gellan gums generally differ in the degree of acylation, such that two different chemical structures can be distinguished. Gellan gums with a high acylation degree are according to formula (II), while gellan gums with a low acylation degree are according to formula (III).

In the formulas (II) and (III) n stands for an integer number in the range from 2 to 2000, preferably from 200 to 450.

In the case the composition according to the invention comprises gellan gum, it is further preferred if the gellan gum has a structure according to formula (III). Furthermore, it is preferred according to the invention if the gellan gum according to formula (III) has a total mass in the range from 200000 to 300000 Da. Such a gellan gum can commercially be purchased under the trade name KELCOGEL^® CG-LA from the company CP Kelco. In the case the composition according to the invention comprises gellan gum the total quantity of gellan gum, in particular the total quantity of the gellan gum according to formula (III), is preferably in the range from 0.015% to 4% by weight, more preferably from 0.02% to 1% by weight and most preferably from 0.1% to 0.3% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

In the case the composition according to the invention comprises carrageenan the total quantity of carrageenan is preferably in the range from 0.015% to 4% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% to 2% by weight and most preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition. If carrageenan is contained in the composition according to the invention, the composition feels more elastic.

In terms of the present invention it is further preferred, if the cosmetic composition contains water and the total quantity of water is in the range from 60% to 95% by weight, more preferably from 70% to 93% by weight and most preferably from75% to 92% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

According to the present invention it is further preferred, if the cosmetic composition contains at least one pigment or dye, meaning those, which are listed in the“List of Colorants allowed in cosmetic products” in Annex IV of the Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009, as updated on the 28^th of September 2017. Hence, a dye which can be contained in the cosmetic composition according to the invention is for example known under the code Cl 42909.

The cosmetic composition of the present invention may further comprise at least one skin conditioning agent such as polyquaternium-7. If polyquaternium-7 is contained in the composition, it is preferred if the total quantity of polyquaternium-7 is in the range from 0.1 % to 1 % by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

Furthermore, it is also preferred if the compositions according to the invention do not contain an fatty acid having 10 to 24 carbon atoms, as these substances may reduce the amount of foam in terms of volume, which the composition may produce when applied for cleansing the skin.

Furthermore, the cosmetic composition according to the invention preferably contains one or more liquid fragrance materials. Liquid fragrance materials are typically a mixture of perfume or aromatic components. The liquid fragrance materials can be any natural or synthetic fragrance component known to the skilled in the field of fragrance production, including the preferred components geraniol, geranylacetate, linalool, linalyl acetate, tetrahydrolinalool, citronellol, citronellyl acetate, dihydromyrcenol, dihydromyrcenylacetate, tetrahydromyrcenol, terpineol, terpinylacetate, nopol, nopylacetate, 2-phenylethanol, 2-phenylethylacetate, benzyl alcohol, benzylacetate, benzylsalicylate, benzylbenzoate, styrallylacetate, amylsalicylate, dimethylbenzylcarbinol, trichlormethylphenylcarbinylacetate, p-tert.butylcyclohexylacetate, isononylacetate, vetiverylacetate, vetiverol, alpha-n-amylcinammic aldehyde, alpha- hexylcinammic aldehydes, 2-methyl-3-(p-tert.butylphenyl)-propanol, 2-methyl-3-(p- isopropylphenyl)-propanal, 3-(p-tert.butylphenyl)-propanal, tricyclodecenyl acetate, tricyclodecenyl propionate, 4-(4-hydroxy-4-methylpentyl)-3-cyclohexenecarbaldehyde, 4-(4- methyl-3-pentenyl)-3-cyclohexenecarbaldehyde, 4-acetoxy-3-pentyltetrahydropyran, methyl dihydrojasmonate, 2-n-heptylcyclopentanone, 3-methyl-2-pentylcyclopentanone, n-decanal, 9-decenol-1 , phenoxyethylisobutyrate, phenyl-acetaldehyde dimethylacetal, phenylacetaldehyde diethylacetal, geranonitrile, citronellonitrile, cedrylacetate, 3- isocamphylcyclohexanol, cedryl methyl ether, isolongifolanone, aubepinitrile, aubepin, heliotropin, coumarin, eugenol, vanillin, diphenyl oxide, hydroxycitronellal, ions, methylionones, isomethylionones, cis-3-hexenol and esters thereof, indan-musky scents, tetralin-musky scents, isochrome musky scents, macrocyclic ketones, macrolacton-musky scents, ethylene brassylate and/or aromatic nitro-musky scents. Some perfume components are also described in Arctander, Perfume and Flavour Chemicals (Chemicals), Vol. I and II (1969) and Arctander, Perfume and Flavour Materials of Natural Origin (1960).

The cosmetic compositions may be prepared by usual methods known by the skilled in the field of cosmetics. However, it is generally preferred if the ingredients are mixed at elevated temperatures, e.g. at 70°C to 80°.

Examples

The following examples should illustrate the present invention, without intending to limit the invention to these examples. The numerical values in the examples are percentages by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations. In the case the formulations do not sum up to 100% by weight, the content is adjusted by the water content such that the formulations sum up 100% by weight.

Shampoo formulation:

In the table above listing shampoo formulations the formulation Ex.1 formed a turbid, milky looking formulation which exceeded an excellent stability. Contrarily, the comparative examples Com. 1 and Com. 2 were fully transparent. Only Ex.1 is according to the invention.

Cleansing composition:

Commercial Product KELOGEL^® CG-LA

Again, it was found in agreement with the shampoo formulations that Ex.2, which is according to the invention, formed a turbid, milky looking formulation which exceeded an excellent stability. Contrarily, the comparative examples Com. 3 and Com. 4 were fully transparent.

Shower gel:

Again, it was found in agreement with the other inventive formulations above that Ex.3, which is also according to the invention, formed a turbid, milky looking formulation which exceeded an excellent stability. Contrarily, the comparative examples Com. 5 and Com. 6 were fully transparent.

Further examples:

Again, it was found in agreement with the other inventive formulations above that Ex.4 to Ex.10, which are according to the invention, formed a turbid, milky looking formulation which exceeded an excellent stability. Contrarily, the comparative examples Com. 7 and Com. 8 were fully transparent.

The examples Ex. 9 and Ex.10 showed in comparison to other examples a superior stability, if stored at 50°C and 1013 hPa.

Claims

1. A cosmetic composition, comprising

a) at least one amino acid surfactant according to formula (I)

b) calcium chloride.

2. The use of the combination of

a) at least one amino acid surfactant according to formula (I)

b) calcium chloride

to form a turbid or milky looking cosmetic composition.

3. Composition or use according to any of the proceeding claims characterized in that the amino acid surfactants a) are contained in the cosmetic composition in a total quantity of at least 1 % by weight, preferably at least 1.5% by weight, more preferably at least 2% by weight and most preferably at least 3% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

4. Composition or use according to any of the proceeding claims characterized in that the amino acid surfactants a) are contained in the cosmetic composition in a total quantity of no more than 10% by weight, preferably no more than 7.5% by weight, more preferably no more than 6% by weight and most preferably no more than 4.5% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

5. Composition or use according to any of the proceeding claims characterized in that the composition contains at least one amino acid surfactant according to formula (I), wherein R is an alkyl chain containing 10 to 20 carbon atoms and M⁺ is a sodium ion.

6. Composition or use according to any of the proceeding claims characterized in that characterized in that sodium cocoyl glycinate is selected as amino acid surfactant a).

7. Composition or use according to any of the proceeding claims characterized in that calcium chloride is contained in a total quantity of at least 0.1% by weight, preferably at least 0.2% by weight, more preferably at least 0.5 % by weight, still more preferably at least 0.7% by weight an most preferably at least 1% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

8. Composition or use according to any of the proceeding claims characterized in that calcium chloride is contained in the cosmetic composition in a total quantity of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 3.5% and more preferably less than 2% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

9. Composition or use according to any of the proceeding claims characterized in that the ratio by weight between the surfactants a) and calcium chloride b) is in the range from 10:1 to 1 :1 , preferably from 8:1 to 2:1 and more preferably from 6:1 to 2.8:1.

10. Composition or use according to any of the proceeding claims characterized in that the composition is a cleansing composition, preferably a shower gel, a shampoo product or a facial cleanser.

11. Composition or use according to any of the proceeding claims characterized in that the composition comprises sodium laureth sulfate as a further surfactant, whereby it is preferred, if sodium laureth sulfate is contained in the cosmetic composition in a total quantity from 4% to 12% by weight, more preferably from 6% to 10% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

12. Composition or use according to any of the proceeding claims characterized in that the cosmetic composition further comprises cocamidopropyl betaine, whereby the total quantity of cocamidopropyl betaine is preferably in the range from 0.5% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1.5% to 5% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

13. Composition or use according to any of the proceeding claims characterized in that sodium chloride is additionally contained in the cosmetic composition in a total quantity from 0.5% to 1.5% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

14. Composition or use according to any of the proceeding claims characterized in that the composition further comprises sodium benzoate.

15. Composition or use according to any of the proceeding claims characterized in that the composition further comprises phenoxyethanol.