WO2020002523A1 - Composition cosmétique comprenant des tensioactifs, un polymère comprenant au moins une unité (méth)acrylique et une silicone - Google Patents

Composition cosmétique comprenant des tensioactifs, un polymère comprenant au moins une unité (méth)acrylique et une silicone Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2020002523A1
WO2020002523A1 PCT/EP2019/067202 EP2019067202W WO2020002523A1 WO 2020002523 A1 WO2020002523 A1 WO 2020002523A1 EP 2019067202 W EP2019067202 W EP 2019067202W WO 2020002523 A1 WO2020002523 A1 WO 2020002523A1
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weight
radical
acrylic
composition according
alkyl
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PCT/EP2019/067202
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English (en)
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Sarish JOSHI
Shubhrajit NAG
Harshada TULSYAN
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L'oreal
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8158—Homopolymers or copolymers of amides or imides, e.g. (meth) acrylamide; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A61K8/892—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone modified by a hydroxy group, e.g. dimethiconol
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners

Definitions

  • Cosmetic composition comprising surfactants, a polymer comprising at least one (meth)acrylic unit and a silicone
  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition useful for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibres, and in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, which comprises one or more anionic and one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, one or more polymer(s) comprising at least one (meth)acrylic unit, and one or more silicones .
  • the invention also relates to a cosmetic process for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibres using such a composition.
  • detergent cosmetic compositions such as shampoos and shower gels, based essentially on surfactants, for washing keratin materials such as the hair and the skin.
  • These compositions are applied to the keratin materials, which are preferably wet, and the lather generated by massaging or rubbing with the hands or a toiletry flannel makes it po ssible, after rinsing with water, to remove the diverse types of soiling initially present on the hair or the skin.
  • compositions contain sub stantial contents of "detergent” surfactants, which, in order to be able to formulate cosmetic compositions with good washing power, must especially give them good foaming power.
  • the surfactants that are useful for this purpo se are generally of anionic, non-ionic and/or amphoteric type, and particularly of anionic type.
  • these compositions have a good washing power, but the intrinsic cosmetic properties associated with them nevertheless remain fairly poor, owing in particular to the fact that the relatively aggressive nature of such a cleaning treatment can, in the long run, lead to more or less pronounced damage to the keratin fibres, this damage being associated in particular with the gradual removal of the lipids or proteins contained in or on the surface of said fibres .
  • the cosmetic properties of the above detergent compositions and more particularly those which are to be applied to sensitized hair (i.e.
  • conditioners are intended mainly to repair or limit the harmful or undesirable effects induced by the various treatments or aggressions to which the hair fibres are subj ected more or less repeatedly. These conditioners may, of course, also improve the cosmetic behaviour of natural hair.
  • compositions containing such conditioners are generally presented in the form of emulsions or dispersions having varying degrees of thickness and they often have an opaque appearance that is not very attractive. More and more consumers seek cosmetic products that have an original visual appearance.
  • compositions rich in fatty substances may be difficult to apply to the hair and may be difficult to remove, in particular may require long rinsing .
  • compositions in particular washing compositions for human keratin fibres such as hair, not presenting the drawbacks mentioned hereinabove, i.e. that present an attractive visual appearance and that can be applied easily to said fibres, and be rinsed quickly while leading to enhanced cosmetic properties, notably in terms of smoothness, softness and manageability.
  • These cosmetic properties may also be long-lasting.
  • the composition should also have good detergent properties, and notably generate good lathering properties.
  • a cosmetic composition comprising one or more anionic and one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, one or more silicones, and one or more polymer(s) comprising at least one (meth)acrylic unit, makes it possible to achieve the objectives outlined above.
  • the subject of the invention is especially a cosmetic composition
  • a cosmetic composition comprising:
  • anionic surfactant(s) in an amount of more than or equal to 5 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s),
  • one or more hydroxyl-terminated silicone(s) one or more hydroxyl-terminated silicone(s) .
  • the composition according to the invention has very good cleaning properties. It provides good creamy lather that spreads easily and uniformly on keratin fibres and that removes all the accumulated dirt, oils and sebum leading to better clean feel on keratinous substrates such as the hair and the scalp .
  • the composition has the further advantages of being applied easily and of being rinsed off quickly.
  • composition according to the invention confers high cosmetic properties to the keratin fibres, and especially affords them a good conditioning .
  • the composition of the invention provides, for instance, excellent smoothness, softness and disentangling to the keratin fibres .
  • the composition further provides a good manageability of the keratin fibres, and a good control of the volume.
  • composition according to the invention has an attractive and original visual appearance . It is indeed a clear and transparent composition, which is very pleasant to the consumers .
  • the invention also relates to a cosmetic process for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as hair, which consists in applying to said keratin fibres a composition as previously defined, and after an optional leave-on time, optionally removing it by rinsing .
  • a cosmetic process for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibres in particular human keratin fibres such as hair, which consists in applying to said keratin fibres a composition as previously defined, and after an optional leave-on time, optionally removing it by rinsing .
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises one or more anionic surfactants in an amount of more than or equal to 5 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • anionic surfactant means a surfactant comprising, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups .
  • a species is termed as being "anionic" when it bears at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized as a negatively charged species, under the conditions of use of the composition of the invention (for example the medium or the pH) and not comprising any cationic charge.
  • the anionic surfactants may be sulfate, sulfonate and/or carboxylic (or carboxylate) surfactants . Needless to say, a mixture of these surfactants may be used.
  • - carboxylate anionic surfactants comprise at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO ) and may optionally also comprise one or more sulfate and/or sulfonate functions ;
  • the sulfonate anionic surfactants comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO 3 H or -SO 3 ) and may optionally also comprise one or more sulfate functions, but do not comprise any carboxylate functions; and
  • the sulfate anionic surfactants comprise at least one sulfate function but do not comprise any carboxylate or sulfonate functions.
  • the carboxylic anionic surfactants that may be used thus comprise at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or - COO ) .
  • acylglycinates may be chosen from the following compounds : acylglycinates, acyllactylates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates; alkyl- D-galacto sideuronic acids, alkyl ether carboxylic acids, alkyl(C6-30 aryl) ether carboxylic acids, alkylamido ether carboxylic acids ; and also the salts of these compounds .
  • the alkyl and/or acyl groups of these compounds comprise from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 12 to 28 , better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group .
  • These compounds are possibly polyoxyalkylenated, especially polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units .
  • C 6 -C 24 alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids such as C 6 -C 24 alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C 6 -C 24 alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and C 6 - C 24 alkyl polyglyco side-sulfosuccinates, and salts thereof.
  • carboxylic surfactants mention may be made most particularly of polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide and in particular ethylene oxide group s, such as the compounds sold by the company Kao under the name Akypo .
  • polyoxyalkylenated alkyl (amido) ether carboxylic acids that may be used are preferably chosen from those of formula (I) :
  • R i represents a linear or branched C 6 -C 24 alkyl or alkenyl radical, an alkyl(C g -C9 )phenyl radical, a radical R 2 CONH-CH 2 -CH 2 - with R 2 denoting a linear or branched C g -C 2 i alkyl or alkenyl radical, preferably, R i is a C g -C 2 o and preferably C g -C i g alkyl radical, and aryl preferably denotes phenyl, - n is an integer or decimal number (average value) ranging from 2 to 24 and preferably from 2 to 10, and
  • - A denotes H, ammonium, Na, K, Li, Mg or a monoethanolamine or triethanolamine residue.
  • mixtures of compounds of formula (I) in particular mixtures of compounds containing different groups R i .
  • polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids that are particularly preferred are those of formula (I) in which:
  • R i denotes a C i 2 -C i 4 alkyl, cocoyl, oleyl, nonylphenyl or octylphenyl radical,
  • - A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom
  • - n varies from 2 to 20 and preferably from 2 to 10.
  • R denotes a C ] 2 alkyl radical
  • A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom
  • n ranges from 2 to 10.
  • carboxylic anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
  • - acylglutamates especially of C 6 -C 24 or even C 12 -C 20 , such as stearoylglutamates, and in particular disodium stearoylglutamate;
  • acylsarcosinates especially of C 6 -C 24 or even C 12 -C 20 , such as palmitoylsarcosinates, and in particular sodium palmitoylsarcosinate;
  • - acyllactylates especially of C 12 -C 28 or even C 14 -C 24 , such as behenoyllactylates, and in particular sodium behenoyllactylate;
  • alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts .
  • the sulfonate anionic surfactants that may be used comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO 3 H or -SO 3 ) .
  • alkylsulfonates alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, a- olefinsulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, N- acyltaurates, acylisethionates ; alkylsulfolaurates; and also the salts of these compounds .
  • the alkyl groups of these compounds comprise from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 12 to 28 , better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group .
  • These compounds are possibly polyoxyalkylenated, especially polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units .
  • the sulfonate anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
  • the sulfate anionic surfactants that may be used comprise at least one sulfate function (-OSO 3 H or -OSO 3 ).
  • alkyl sulfates alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; and also the salts of these compounds .
  • the alkyl groups of these compounds comprise from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 12 to 28 , better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group .
  • these compounds are possibly polyoxyalkylenated, especially polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units .
  • the sulfate anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
  • alkyl ether sulfates especially of C 6 -C 24 or even C 12 -C 20 , preferably comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units;
  • alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.
  • the said salt may be chosen from alkali metal salts, such as the sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts, and alkaline-earth metal salts, such as the magnesium salt.
  • amino alcohol salts examples include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl- l-propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl- 1 ,3- propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.
  • Alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.
  • the anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
  • acylsarcosinates especially palmitoylsarcosinates
  • C 6 -C 24 polyoxyalkylenated (C 6 -C 24 )alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide and in particular ethylene oxide groups; - C 6 -C 24 , and especially C 1 2-C20 , acylglutamates ;
  • alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts .
  • the anionic surfactants suitable in the composition of the present invention can be oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units .
  • the anionic surfactants used in the composition of the present invention are preferably chosen from sulphate and sulfonate anionic surfactants.
  • the anionic surfactants are mo st preferably chosen from sulfosuccinates such as in particular C 1 2-C20 alkylsulfosuccinates and C 1 2-C20 alkyl ether sulfo succinates, and alkyl ether sulphates having a C 1 2-C20 alkyl group and comprising from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units, preferably from 2 to 5 ethylene oxide units (OE) , and mixtures thereof.
  • sulfosuccinates such as in particular C 1 2-C20 alkylsulfosuccinates and C 1 2-C20 alkyl ether sulfo succinates
  • alkyl ether sulphates having a C 1 2-C20 alkyl group and comprising from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units, preferably from 2 to 5 ethylene oxide units (OE) , and mixtures thereof.
  • Such compounds are preferably used under the form of salts, and preferably sodium salts .
  • the surfactants are chosen from alkyl ether sulphates having a C 1 2-C20 alkyl group and comprising from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units, and preferably from 2 to 5 ethylene oxide units .
  • the amount of anionic surfactants present in the cosmetic composition of the present invention advantageously ranges from 5 to 30% by weight, more preferentially from 8 to 25 % by weight, and even more preferably from 10 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present invention further comprises one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants.
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) that may be used in the present invention may especially be secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, optionally quaternized, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, the said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group, for instance a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulphate, phosphate or phosphonate group.
  • R a represents a C6-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid R a COOH preferably present in hydrolysed coconut oil, or a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group;
  • R b represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group
  • R c represents a carboxymethyl group
  • M + represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;
  • - X represents an organic or mineral anionic counterion, preferably chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (Ci-C 4 )alkyl sulphates, (Ci-C 4 )alkyl or (C 1 -C 4 )alkylaryl sulfonates, in particular methyl sulphate and ethyl sulphate;
  • n 0, 1 or 2;
  • - Z represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyethyl or carboxymethyl group.
  • B represents the group -CH 2 -CH 2 -0-X'
  • - X' represents the group -CH 2 -C(0)0H, -CH 2 -C(0)0Z’ , -CH 2 -CH 2 - C(0)0H, -CH 2 -CH 2 -C(0)0Z’ , or a hydrogen atom;
  • - Y' represents the group -C(0)0H, -C(0)0Z’, -CH 2 -CH(0H)-S0 3 H or the group -CH 2 -CH(0H)-S0 3 -Z’ ;
  • - Z' represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;
  • R a’ represents a C 6 -C 3 o alkyl or C 6 -C 3 o alkenyl group of an acid R a -COOH, which is preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil, or an alkyl group, especially a C i 7 alkyl group and its iso form, or an unsaturated C i 7 group ;
  • m' is equal to 0 , 1 or 2;
  • Z represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyethyl or carboxymethyl group .
  • the compounds of this type are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993 , under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid, cocoamphodipropionic acid and hydroxyethylcarb ox ymethylcocamidopropyl amine.
  • Examples that may be mentioned include the cocoamphodiacetate sold by the company Rhodia under the trade name Miranol ® C2M Concentrate or under the trade name Miranol Ultra C 32 and the product sold by the company Chimex under the trade name Chimexane HA.
  • Y represents the group -C(0)OH, -C(0)OZ", -CH 2 -CH(OH)- S0 3 H or the group CH 2 -CH(0H)-S0 3 -Z" ;
  • R d and R e independently of each other, represent a C 1 -C 4 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical ;
  • Z" represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;
  • R a" represents a C 6 -C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid R a” - C(0)0H which is preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil;
  • n and n' denote, independently of each other, an integer ranging from 1 to 3.
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants it is preferred to use (C g -C2o)alkylbetaines such as cocoylbetaine, (C 8 -C2o)alkylamido(C2 -C g )alkyl)betaines such as cocoylamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof.
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) are chosen from (C g -C2o )alkylbetaines, and even more preferably cocoylbetaine.
  • the amount of the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) present in the co smetic composition of the present invention advantageously ranges from 0. 1 to 15 % by weight, more preferentially from 0.5 to 10% by weight, and even more preferably from 1 to 5 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present invention further comprises one or more polymer(s) comprising one or more acrylic and/or methacrylic units .
  • These polymers are non-silicone, i.e . they do not contain any silicon (Si) atom.
  • acrylic or methacrylic units units corresponding to acrylic or methacrylic acid monomers and/or their salts, and/or their derivatives such as esters (for example (meth)acrylates) or amides (for example (meth)acrylamide), optionally substituted.
  • the polymer(s) comprising one or more acrylic and/or methacrylic units may be chosen from homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic and/or methacrylic monomers, and preferably from homo- or copolymers resulting from the (co)polymerization of one or more monomers including one or more monomers of structure (IV):
  • -Ri denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched Ci-C 4 alkyl radical
  • R 2 denotes a hydroxyl radical, a NR 3 R 4 radical or a linear or branched C1-C12 alkoxy radical, said alkoxy radical being optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl radicals, by a quaternary ammonium radical (N + R 5 R 6 R 7 ;Y ) or by a NRgRg radical,
  • R 3 and R 4 which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C12 alkyl radical, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl radicals, by a quaternary ammonium radical (N + R 5 R 6 R 7 ;Y ), by a NRgRg radical or by a sulfonic group (-SO 3 H), and
  • R 5 , R 6 and R 7 which may be identical or different, denote a linear or branched Ci-Cig alkyl radical or a benzyl radical, preferably a linear or branched Ci-C 6 alkyl radical;
  • Rg and R 9 which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched Ci-C 6 alkyl radical
  • - Y denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid or a halide, preferably bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, methosulfate, sulfate or phosphate anion.
  • Ri denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical.
  • the polymer(s) comprising one or more acrylic and/or methacrylic units suitable for the present invention are preferably cho sen from cationic polymers, amphoteric polymers and mixtures thereof. Most preferably, they are chosen from cationic polymers.
  • the cationic charge density of the polymers comprising one or more acrylic and/or methacrylic units may preferably be lower than or equal to 5 meq/g, more preferentially lower than or equal to 4 meq/g, and better still lower than or equal to 3 meq/g .
  • This cationic charge density advantageously ranges from 0.5 to 5 meq/g, better still from 1 to 4 meq/g, and even more preferably from 1 .5 to 3 meq/g .
  • cationic polymer means any polymer comprising cationic groups and/or groups that can be ionized to cationic groups , and not comprising anionic groups and/or groups that can be ionized to anionic groups .
  • the cationic polymer is hydrophilic or amphiphilic .
  • the preferred cationic polymers are cho sen from those that contain units comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and/or quaternary amine groups that may either form part of the main polymer chain or may be borne by a side substituent directly connected thereto .
  • the polymers comprising one or more acrylic and/or methacrylic units that can be used in the present invention are preferably chosen from homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and comprising at least one of the units of the following formulae:
  • R i which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH 3 radical
  • R which may be identical or different, denote a linear or branched C 1 -C 12 alkyl radical, preferably a linear C i -C 6 alkyl radical, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl radicals ;
  • R 5 , R 6 and R 7 which may be identical or different, denote a linear or branched C i -C i g alkyl radical or a benzyl radical, preferably a linear or branched C i -C 6 alkyl radical;
  • R 8 and R 9 which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C i -C 6 alkyl radical, preferably methyl or ethyl ;
  • - Y denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid or a halide, preferably bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, methosulfate, sulfate or phosphate anion .
  • the polymers comprising acrylic and/or methacrylic units are chosen from homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic amides, and more preferentially from homopolymers or copolymers comprising at least one unit of formula (V) or (VI) .
  • polymers comprising acrylic and/or methacrylic units are chosen from copolymers comprising at least one unit of formula (V) as defined previously, and more preferably comprising at least one unit of formula (V) in which R i denotes a hydrogen atom, R represents a linear alkyl group having 3 carbon atoms and R 5 , R 6 and R 7 represent a methyl.
  • the polymers comprising one or more acrylic and/or methacrylic unit(s) may also contain one or more units derived from comonomers that may be selected from the families of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen with lower (C 1 -C 4 ) alkyls, acrylic or methacrylic acids or esters thereof, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters, preferably selected from the families of acrylamide and methacrylamides, and more preferentially from the family of acrylamides .
  • - quaternized or non-quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers such as the products sold under the names GAFQUAT by the company ISP, for instance GAFQUAT 734 or GAFQUAT 755 , or alternatively the products known as COPOLYMER 845 , 958 and 937.
  • GAFQUAT by the company ISP
  • GAFQUAT 734 or GAFQUAT 755 or alternatively the products known as COPOLYMER 845 , 958 and 937.
  • COPOLYMER 845 , 958 and 937 are described in detail in FR 2 077 143 and FR 2 393 573 , - dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate/vinylcaprolactam/vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers, such as the product sold under the name GAFFIX VC 7 13 by the company ISP,
  • crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxy(C i - C 4 )alkyltri(C i -C 4 )alkylammonium salts such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, the homopolymerization or copolymerization being optionally followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, more particularly methylenebisacrylamide.
  • a crosslinked or non-crosslinked acrylamide/methacryloyloxy ethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20/80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion containing 50% by weight of the said copolymer in mineral oil may be used more particularly.
  • a dispersion is sold under the name SALCARE ® SC 92 by the company BASF.
  • a crosslinked or non-crosslinked methacryloyloxyethyltrimethyl ammonium chloride homopolymer containing about 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester can also be used.
  • Such dispersions are sold under the names SALCARE ® SC 95 and SALCARE ® SC 96 by the company BASF.
  • the polymers comprising one or more acrylic and/or methacrylic units that can be used in the present invention can also be cho sen from amphoteric polymers .
  • amphoteric polymer means any polymer comprising cationic groups and/or groups that can be ionized to cationic groups, and comprising anionic groups and/or groups that can be ionized to anionic groups
  • Amphoteric polymers can be cho sen more particularly from amphoteric polymers comprising a repetition of:
  • the units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide type (i) are units of structure (IX) below:
  • R i denotes a hydrogen atom or CH 3 radical
  • R 2 denotes a NR 3 R 4 radical, wherein R 3 and R 4 , which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C 1 -C 1 2 alkyl radical, optionally sub stituted by one or more hydroxyl radicals, preferably R 2 denotes an amino, a dimethylamino, a tert- butylamino, a dodecylamino or a -NH-CH 2 OH radical.
  • the said amphoteric polymer comprises a repetition of only one unit of formula (IX) .
  • the unit derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide type of formula (IX) in which R i denotes a hydrogen atom and R 2 is an amino radical (NH 2 ) is particularly preferred. It corresponds to the acrylamide monomer per se.
  • the units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type (ii) are units of structure (X) below :
  • R 3 denotes a hydrogen atom or CH 3 radical
  • R5 , R 6 and R 7 which may be identical or different, denote a linear or branched C i -C 6 alkyl radical, preferably a linear or branched C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical;
  • - n denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 6, preferably from 1 to 4;
  • - Y denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid or a halide, preferably bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, methosulfate, sulfate or phosphate anion .
  • the said amphoteric polymer comprises a repetition of only one unit of formula (X) .
  • the units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylic acid type (iii) are units of formula (XI) :
  • R i denotes hydrogen atom or CH 3 radical ;
  • R 2 denotes a hydroxyl radical or a NR 3 R 4 radical, wherein R 3 and R 4 , which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C 1 -C 1 2 alkyl radical optionally substituted by a sulfonic group (-S0 3 H), preferably R 2 denotes a -NH-C(CH 3 ) 2 -CH 2 - S0 3 H radical.
  • the preferred units of formula (XI) correspond to the acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and 2-acrylamino-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid monomers.
  • the unit derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylic acid type of formula (XI) is that derived from acrylic acid, for which R i denotes a hydrogen atom and R 2 denotes a hydroxyl radical.
  • the acidic monomer(s) of (meth)acrylic acid type may be non- neutralized or partially or totally neutralized with an organic or mineral base.
  • the said amphoteric polymer comprises a repetition of only one unit of formula (XI) .
  • the amphoteric polymer(s) of this type comprise at least 30 mol% of units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide type (i) .
  • they comprise from 30 mol% to 70 mol% and more preferably from 40 mol% to 60 mol% of units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide type.
  • (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type (ii) may advantageously be from 10 mol% to 60 mol% and preferentially from 20 mol% to 55 mol% .
  • the content of units derived from an acidic monomer of (meth)acrylic acid type (iii) may advantageously be from 1 mol% to 20 mol% and preferentially from 5 mol% to 15 mol% .
  • the amphoteric polymer of this type comprises: - from 30 mol% to 70 mol% and more preferably from 40 mol% to 60 mol% of units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide type (i),
  • Amphoteric polymers of this type may also comprise additional units, other than the units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide type, of (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type and of (meth)acrylic acid type as described above.
  • the said amphoteric polymers consist solely of units derived from monomers (i) of (meth)acrylamide type, (ii) of (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type and (iii) of (meth)acrylic acid type.
  • amphoteric polymers that are particularly preferred, mention may be made of acrylamide/ methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride/ acrylic acid terpolymers . Such polymers are listed in the CTFA Dictionary
  • Polyquaternium 53 Corresponding products are especially sold under the names Merquat 2003 and Merquat 2003 PR by the company Nalco .
  • amphoteric polymers Another preferred type of amphoteric polymers is the polymer comprising a repetition of:
  • the non ionic monomers (i) of (meth)acrylate type are preferably cho sen from C 1 -C 4 alky acrylates and methacrylates .
  • a preferred monomer is methyl acrylate.
  • amphoteric polymers As particularly preferred examples of such amphoteric polymers, mention may be made of acrylic acid / methylacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride/ methyl acrylates terpolymers . Such polymers are listed in the CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary under the name polyquaternium 47. Corresponding products are especially sold under the names Merquat 2001 and Merquat 2001 N by the company Nalco .
  • amphoteric polymer As another type of amphoteric polymer that may be used, mention may also be made of copolymers based on (meth)acrylic acid and on a dialkyldiallylammonium salt, such as copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride.
  • the polymer(s) comprising one or more acrylic and/or methacrylic units are preferably cho sen from acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride/ acrylamide copolymers, acrylamide/ methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride/ acrylic acid terpolymers, acrylic acid / methylacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride/ methyl acrylates terpolymers, (meth)acrylic acid / dimethyldiallylammonium chloride copolymers and mixtures thereof.
  • the amount of polymer(s) comprising one or more acrylic and/or methacrylic units present in the cosmetic composition of the present invention advantageously ranges from 0.0 1 to 5 % by weight, preferably from 0.015 to 5 % by weight, more preferentially from 0.02 to 3 % by weight, better still from 0.04 to 2% by weight, and even more preferentially from 0.05 to 1 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present invention further comprises one or more hydroxyl-terminated silicones .
  • Such silicones can be chosen in particular from non- amino hydroxyl- terminated silicones .
  • sicone is intended to denote, in accordance with what is generally accepted, any organosilicon polymer or oligomer of linear or cyclic, branched or crosslinked structure, of variable molecular weight, obtained by polymerization and/or polycondensation of suitably functionalized silanes, and consisting essentially of a repetition of main units in which the silicon atoms are linked together via oxygen atoms (siloxane bond -Si-O-Si-), optionally substituted hydrocarbon-based radicals being directly linked via a carbon atom to the said silicon atoms.
  • hydrocarbon-based radicals that are the most common are alkyl radicals, especially C i -C io alkyl radicals, and in particular methyl, fluoroalkyl radicals, the alkyl part of which is C i -C io , and aryl radicals and in particular phenyl .
  • non-amino hydroxyl-terminated silicone denotes any hydroxyl-terminated silicone not containing at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine, or a quaternary ammonium group .
  • Organopolysiloxanes and notably hydroxyl-terminated organopolysiloxanes, are defined in greater detail in Walter Noll’s Chemistry and Technology of Silicones ( 1968 ), Academic Press .
  • the hydroxyl-terminated silicones are chosen from hydroxyl-terminated polyalkylsiloxanes, and more preferentially from a, w-dihydroxy polydialkylsiloxanes that are polydialkylsiloxanes containing silanol end groups (also known as a,w- silanol groups) .
  • the hydroxyl-terminated silicones are chosen from hydroxyl-terminated polydimethylsiloxanes, more preferentially polydimethylsiloxanes containing silanol end groups (or a,w- silanol groups), and better still from polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups (Dimethiconol according to the CTFA name) such as the oils of the 48 series from the company Rhodia.
  • hydroxyl-terminated silicones are chosen from hydroxyl-terminated polydimethylsiloxanes, more preferentially polydimethylsiloxanes containing silanol end groups (or a,w- silanol groups), and better still from polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups (Dimethiconol according to the CTFA name) such as the oils of the 48 series from the company Rhodia.
  • Products that may be used more particularly are the mixtures formed from a polydimethylsiloxane hydroxylated at the end of the chain (known as dimethiconol according to the nomenclature of the CTFA dictionary) and from a cyclic polydimethylsiloxane (known as cyclomethicone according to the nomenclature of the CTFA dictionary) , such as the product Q2 1401 sold by the company Dow Corning .
  • a polydimethylsiloxane hydroxylated at the end of the chain known as dimethiconol according to the nomenclature of the CTFA dictionary
  • cyclic polydimethylsiloxane known as cyclomethicone according to the nomenclature of the CTFA dictionary
  • hydroxyl-terminated silicones suitable for the present invention examples include the products sold under the following names :
  • PMX- 1503 fluid from the company Dow Corning, which corresponds to a mixture of a, w-dihydroxy polydimethylsiloxane and of polydimethylsiloxane 5 cSt,
  • dimethiconol emulsions for example with anionic surfactants, preferably having a low particle size such as less than 500 nm, more preferentially less than 200 nm, and better still less than 100 nm.
  • the hydroxyl-terminated silicones are cho sen from polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups (also known as dimethiconol), preferably in emulsion form, and more preferentially in microemulsion form having particle size preferably lower than or equal to 100 nm.
  • the hydroxyl-terminated silicones, which can be used in the present invention preferably have a viscosity lower or equal to 60 000 cst at 25 °C and shear rate l s 1 .
  • the viscosity may be measured at 25 °C with viscosimeters or rheometers preferably with cone-plan geometry.
  • the hydroxyl-terminated silicone is a dimethiconol microemulsion of internal phase viscosity ranging from 25 000 to 50 000 cSt, having particle size preferably lower than or equal to 100 nm.
  • the amount of hydroxyl-terminated silicone(s) present in the cosmetic compo sition of the present invention advantageously ranges from 0. 1 to 15 % by weight, more preferentially from 0.5 to 10 % by weight, and better still from 1 to 5 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition .
  • the weight ratio between the amount of hydroxyl-terminated silicone(s) and the amount of polymer(s) comprising one or more acrylic and/or methacrylic units, present in the cosmetic composition according to the invention is preferably greater than or equal to 1 , more preferentially greater than or equal to 2, and better still greater than or equal to 4.
  • This weight ratio is advantageously ranging from 1 to 40, preferably from 2 to 35 , more preferably from 4 to 30.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may further comprise one or more additional silicones different from the hydroxyl terminated silicone(s) described above .
  • the additional silicones may be volatile or non-volatile.
  • the additional silicones are more particularly chosen from those with a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly from:
  • linear volatile silicones containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity of less than or equal to 5x l 0 6 m 2 /s at 25 °C .
  • An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol . 91 , Jan. 76, pp . 27 -32, Todd & Byers Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics .
  • the additional silicones are non-volatile, use is preferably made of polyalkylsiloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, silicone gums and resins, and polyorganosiloxanes modified with organofunctional groups, and mixtures thereof.
  • These additional silicones are more particularly chosen from polyalkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups (Dimethicone according to the CTFA name) having a viscosity of from 5x l 0 6 to 2.5 m 2 /s at 25 °C and preferably l x l O 5 to 1 m 2 /s.
  • the viscosity of the silicones is measured, for example, at 25 °C according to standard ASTM 445 Appendix C.
  • oils of the 200 series from the company Dow Corning such as, more particularly, DC200 with a viscosity of 60 000 cSt,
  • the polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from linear and/or branched polydimethylmethylphenylsiloxanes and polydimethyldiphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity of from l x l O 5 to 5x l 0 2 m 2 /s at 25 °C .
  • the additional silicones that may be present in the composition according to the invention are especially polydiorganosiloxanes having high number-average molecular masses of between 200 000 and 1 000 000, used alone or as a mixture in a solvent.
  • This solvent can be cho sen from volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) oils, polyphenylmethylsiloxane (PPMS) oils, isoparaffins, polyisobutylenes, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane and tridecane, or mixtures thereof.
  • a polydimethylsiloxane gum with a cyclic silicone such as the product SF 1214 Silicone Fluid from the company General Electric, this product being an SF 30 gum corresponding to a dimethicone, having a number-average molecular weight of 500 000, dissolved in the oil SF 1202 Silicone Fluid corresponding to decamethylcyclopentasiloxane,
  • the product SF 1236 is a mixture of a gum SE 30 defined above, with a viscosity of 20 m 2 /s and of an oil SF 96 with a viscosity of 5x l 0 6 m 2 /s .
  • This product preferably comprises 15 % of gum SE 30 and 85 % of an oil SF 96.
  • the organopolysiloxane resins that may be present in the composition according to the invention are crosslinked siloxane systems containing the following units: R 2 Si0 2/2 , R3 SiO i /2 , RSi0 3/2 and Si0 4/2 in which R represents a hydrocarbon group containing 1 to 16 carbon atoms or a phenyl group .
  • R represents a hydrocarbon group containing 1 to 16 carbon atoms or a phenyl group .
  • the ones that are particularly preferred are those in which R denotes a C 1 -C4 alkyl group, more particularly methyl, or a phenyl group .
  • organomodified silicones that may be present in the composition according to the invention are silicones as defined above and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group .
  • organomodified silicones mention may be made of polyorganosiloxanes comprising :
  • polyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy group s optionally comprising C 6-C 24 alkyl group s, such as the products known as dimethicone copolyol sold by the company Dow Corning under the name DC 1248 or the oils Silwet L 722, L 7500, L 77 and L 7 1 1 by the company Union Carbide, and the (C i 2 )alkylmethicone copolyol sold by the company Dow Corning under the name Q2 5200, or in particular the silicone of INCI name PEG- 12 dimethicone such as the product XIAMETER OFX-0193 FLUID sold by Dow Corning .
  • the products known as dimethicone copolyol sold by the company Dow Corning under the name DC 1248 or the oils Silwet L 722, L 7500, L 77 and L 7 1 1 by the company Union Carbide and the (C i 2 )alkylmethicone copolyol sold by the company Dow Corning under the name Q2
  • - acyloxyalkyl groups for instance the polyorganosiloxanes described in patent US-A-4 957 732, - anionic groups of the carboxylic acid type, for instance in the products described in patent EP 186507 from the company Chisso Corporation, or of the alkylcarboxylic type, such as those present in the product X-22-3701E from the company Shin-Etsu; 2-hydroxyalkyl sulfonate; 2-hydroxyalkyl thiosulphate such as the products sold by the company Goldschmidt under the names Abil S201 and Abil S255.
  • silicones comprising a polysiloxane portion and a non-silicone organic chain portion, one of the two portions constituting the main chain of the polymer and the other being grafted onto the said main chain, can also be used.
  • These polymers are described, for example, in patent applications EP-A- 412,704, ep-a-4l2,707, ep-a-640,l05 and W095/00578, ep-a-582,l52 and W093/23009 and U.S. Pat. Nos. 4,693,935, 4,728,571 and 4,972,037.
  • These polymers are preferably anionic or non-ionic.
  • the additional silicones used in the composition of the invention may also be chosen from amino silicones.
  • amino silicone means any silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function or a quaternary ammonium group.
  • amino silicones that may be used in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention are chosen from:
  • - T is a hydrogen atom or a phenyl, hydroxyl (-OH) or Ci-C 8 alkyl group, and preferably methyl, or a Ci-C 8 alkoxy, preferably methoxy,
  • - a denotes the number 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, and preferably 0, - b denotes 0 or 1, and in particular 1,
  • n + m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) can range especially from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, it being possible for n to denote a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and for m to denote a number from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10, and
  • - Ri is a monovalent group of formula -C q H 2q L in which q is a number from 2 to 8 and L is an optionally quaternized amino group chosen from the following groups:
  • R may denote a hydrogen atom, a phenyl, a benzyl or a saturated monovalent hydrocarbon-based group, for example a Ci- C 20 alkyl group
  • Q represents a halide ion, for instance fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.
  • amino silicones corresponding to the definition of formula (XII) are chosen from the compounds corresponding to formula (XIII) below:
  • R, R’ and R which may be identical or different, denote a Ci-C 4 alkyl group, preferably CH 3 ; a C 1 -C 4 alkoxy group, preferably methoxy; or OH;
  • A represents a linear or branched, C 3 -C 8 and preferably C 3 -C 6 alkylene group ;
  • m and n are integers dependent on the molecular weight and whose sum is between 1 and 2000.
  • R, R’ and R which may be identical or different, represent a C 1 -C 4 alkyl or hydroxyl group
  • A represents a C 3 alkylene group
  • m and n are such that the weight- average molecular mass of the compound is between 5000 and 500 000 approximately.
  • Compounds of this type are referred to in the CTFA dictionary as“amodimethicones”.
  • R, R’ and R which may be identical or different, each represent a C 1 -C 4 alkoxy or hydroxyl group, at least one of the groups R or R” is an alkoxy group and A represents a C 3 alkylene group .
  • the hydroxy/alkoxy mole ratio is preferably between 0.2/ 1 and 0.4/ 1 and advantageously equal to 0.3/ 1 .
  • m and n are such that the weight-average molecular mass of the compound is between 2000 and 10 6 . More particularly, n is between 0 and 999 and m is between 1 and 1000, the sum of n and m being between 1 and 1000.
  • R and R which are different, each represent a C 1 -C 4 alkoxy or hydroxyl group, at least one of the groups R or R” being an alkoxy group, R’ representing a methyl group and A representing a C 3 alkylene group .
  • the hydroxy/alkoxy mole ratio is preferably between 1/0.8 and 1/ 1 . 1 and advantageously equal to 1/0.95.
  • m and n are such that the weight-average molecular mass of the compound is between 2000 and 200 000. More particularly, n is between 0 and 999 and m is between 1 and 1000, the sum of n and m being between 1 and 1000.
  • the molecular mass of these silicones is determined by gel permeation chromatography (ambient temperature, polystyrene standard; m styragem columns ; eluent THF; flow rate 1 mm/minute; 200 m ⁇ of a solution containing 0.5 % by weight of silicone in THF are injected, and detection is performed by refractometry and UV-metry) .
  • a product corresponding to the definition of formula (XIII) is in particular the polymer known in the CTFA dictionary as Trimethylsilyl Amodimethicone, corresponding to formula (XIV) below:
  • n and m have the meanings given above in accordance with formula (XII) .
  • a compound of formula (XIV) is sold, for example, under the name Q2-8220 by the company OSI.
  • - R represents a Ci-Cig monovalent hydrocarbon-based group, and in particular a Ci-Cig alkyl or C 2 -Cig alkenyl group, for example methyl,
  • R 4 represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based group, especially a Ci- Cig alkylene group or a divalent Ci-Cig, and for example Ci-Cg, alkylenoxy group,
  • - Q is a halide ion, in particular chloride
  • - r represents a mean statistical value from 2 to 20 and in particular from 2 to 8, and
  • - s represents a mean statistical value from 20 to 200 and in particular from 20 to 50.
  • a compound falling within this class is the product sold by the company Union Carbide under the name Ucar Silicone ALE 56.
  • R 7 which may be identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon-based group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a Ci-Cig alkyl group, a C 2 -Cig alkenyl group or a ring comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl,
  • R 6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based group, especially a C j -
  • Cig alkylene group or a divalent Ci-Cig and for example Ci-Cg, alkylenoxy group linked to the Si via an SiC bond,
  • Rg which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon-based group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a Ci-Cig alkyl group, a C 2 -Cig alkenyl group or a group -R 6 -NHCOR 7 ;
  • - X is an anion such as a halide ion, especially chloride, or an organic acid salt (acetate, etc.);
  • - r represents a mean statistical value from 2 to 200 and in particular from 5 to 100.
  • R 2 , R 3 and R 4 which may be identical or different, denote a Ci- C 4 alkyl group or a phenyl group,
  • R 5 denotes a Ci-C 4 alkyl group or a hydroxyl group
  • - n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5
  • - m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5
  • - x is chosen such that the amine number is between 0.01 and 1 meq/g.
  • one particularly advantageous embodiment involves their combined use with cationic and/or nonionic surfactants.
  • Another commercial product that may be used according to the invention is the product sold under the name Dow Corning Q2 7224 by the company Dow Corning, comprising, in combination, trimethylsilyl amodimethicone of formula (XIV) described above, a nonionic surfactant of formula C 8 H I 7 -C 6H 4 -(OCH2CH2 ) 4O - OH , known under the CTFA name Octoxynol-40, a second nonionic surfactant of formula C I 2 H 25 - (OCH2-CH 2 ) 6-OH, known under the CTFA name Isolaureth-6, and propylene glycol .
  • the silicones of the invention may also be silicones grafted with anionic groups, such as the compounds VS 80 or VS 70 sold by the company 3M .
  • the amino silicones used in the present invention are the products sold under the names DC 8 194, DC 8299 , DC 1689, DC 5 -71 13 , DC 8500 , DC 8566, DC8 170 and DC 840 1 by the company Dow Corning .
  • the additional silicones can be used in the form of emulsions, and more preferably in the form of microemulsions typically having particle size lower than or equal to 100 nm.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may further comprise one or more additional cationic polymers different from the polymers comprising one or more acrylic and/or methacrylic units described above. These optional additional cationic polymers do not contain any acrylic and/or methacrylic unit and are non silicone polymers.
  • the additional cationic polymers that may be used preferably have a weight-average molar mass (Mw) of between 500 and 5x l 0 6 approximately and preferably between 10 3 and 3x l 0 6 approximately.
  • Cationic polysaccharides especially cationic celluloses and galactomannan gums.
  • cationic polysaccharides mention may be made more particularly of cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water- soluble quaternary ammonium monomer and cationic galactomannan gums.
  • the cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups are especially described in French patent 1 492 597 , and mention may be made of the polymers sold under the name UCARE POLYMER “JR” (JR 400 LT, JR 125 and JR 30M) or “LR” (LR 400 or LR 30M) by the company Amerchol. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose that have reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group .
  • Cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water- soluble quaternary ammonium monomer are described especially in US patent 4 13 1 576, and mention may be made of hydroxyalkylcelluloses, for instance hydroxymethyl- , hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropylcelluloses grafted, in particular, with a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium,
  • methacrylamidopropyltrimethyl ammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt The commercial products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the names CELQUAT L 200 and CELQUAT H 100 by the company National Starch.
  • the cationic galactomannan gums are described more particularly in US patents 3 589 578 and 4 03 1 307 , and mention may be made of guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups.
  • guar gums modified with a 2,3 - epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt (for example, chloride) .
  • a 2,3 - epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt for example, chloride
  • Such products are especially sold under the names JAGUAR C 13 S , JAGUAR C 15 , JAGUAR C 17 or JAGUAR C 162 by the company Rhodia.
  • Polyamino amide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation with bifunctional agents Mention may be made, for example, of adipic acid/dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldialkylenetriamine polymers in which the alkyl radical comprises from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl or propyl .
  • the alkyl radical comprises from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl or propyl .
  • Polymers of this type are sold in particular under the name HERCOSETT 57 by the company Hercules Inc. or alternatively under the name PD 170 or DELSETTE 101 by the company Hercules in the case of the adipic acid/epoxypropyl/diethylenetriamine copolymer.
  • R 12 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical
  • R l0 and Rn independently of each other, denote a Ci-C 6 alkyl group, a hydroxyl(Ci-Cs)alkyl group, a Ci-C 4 amidoalkyl group; or alternatively R l0 and Rn may denote, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, an heterocyclic group such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl; R l0 and Rm independently of each other, preferably denote a Ci-C 4 alkyl group; and - Y is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate.
  • R 13 , R 14 , R 15 and R I6 which may be identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic radicals comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, or C 1 -C 12 hydroxyalkylaliphatic radicals,
  • R 13 , R I4 , R 15 and Rm together or separately, constitute, with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles optionally comprising a second non-nitrogen heteroatom, or else R 13 , R 14 , R 15 and R I6 represent a linear or branched Ci- C 6 alkyl radical substituted with a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or -CO-O- R 17 -D or -CO-NH-R 17 -D group in which R 17 is an alkylene and D is a quaternary ammonium group;
  • Al and Bl represent divalent polymethylene groups comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and which may contain, linked to or intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings or one or more oxygen or sulfur atoms or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and
  • - X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid; it being understood that Al, R 13 and R 15 can form, with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, a piperazine ring;
  • Al denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical
  • Bl may also denote a group (CH2 ) n -CO-D-OC- (CH 2 ) p - wherein n and p, which may be identical or different, denote an integer from 2 to 20, and wherein D denotes :
  • a glycol residue of formula -0-Z-0- in which Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical, or a group corresponding to one of the following formulae: -(CH 2 -CH 2 -0) x -CH 2 - CH 2 - and - [CH 2 -CH(CH 3 )-0] y -CH 2 -CH(CH 3 )-, where x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization;
  • a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine derivative
  • X is an anion such as chloride or bromide .
  • Mn number-average molar mass
  • R l R 2 , R 3 and R 4 which may be identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n and p are integers ranging from 2 to 20, and X is an anion derived from an organic or mineral acid.
  • R 19 , R 2O and R 2I which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, b-hydroxyethyl, b- hydroxypropyl or
  • - r and s which may be identical or different, are integers between 1 and 6,
  • X- denotes an anion such as a halide
  • - A denotes a dihalide radical or preferably represents -CH 2 -CH 2 _0- CH 2 -CH 2 -.
  • Examples that may be mentioned include the products Mirapol ® A15, Mirapol ® AD1, Mirapol ® AZ1 and Mirapol ® 175 sold by the company Miranol.
  • these polymers may be chosen especially from homopolymers or copolymers comprising one or more units derived from vinylamine and optionally one or more units derived from vinylformamide.
  • these cationic polymers are chosen from polymers comprising, in their structure, from 5 mol% to 100 mol% of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 95 mol% of units corresponding to formula (B ), preferentially from 10 mol% to 100 mol% of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 90 mol% of units corresponding to formula (B) .
  • These polymers may be obtained, for example, by partial hydrolysis of polyvinylformamide. This hydrolysis may be performed in an acidic or basic medium.
  • the weight-average molecular mass of the said polymer measured by light scattering, may range from 1000 to 3 000 000 g/mol, preferably from 10 000 to 1 000 000 g/mol and more particularly from 100 000 to 500 000 g/mol.
  • the polymers comprising units of formula (A) and optionally units of formula (B) are sold especially under the name Lupamin by the company BASF, for instance, and in a non-limiting manner, the products sold under the names Lupamin 9095 , Lupamin 5095 , Lupamin 1095 , Lupamin 9030 (or Luviquat 9030) and Lupamin 90 10.
  • cationic polymers that may be used in the context of the invention are cationic proteins or cationic protein hydrolysates, polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers comprising vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, condensates of polyamines and of epichlorohydrin, quaternary polyureylenes and chitin derivatives .
  • the additional cationic polymers are preferably chosen from the cationic polysaccharides corresponding to the general family ( 1 ) .
  • the additional cationic polymers are chosen from cationic guar gums comprising trialkylammonium group s (preferably C i -C 6 alkyl groups, and more preferentially methyl groups) , better still from hydroxyl(C i -C 4 )alkyl guar gums comprising trialkylammonium groups, and even more preferably the additional cationic polymers are chosen from guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chlorides.
  • the composition can comprise:
  • one or more polymer(s) comprising one or more acrylic and/or methacrylic units , preferably chosen from acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride/ acrylamide copolymers, acrylamide/ methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride/ acrylic acid terpolymers, acrylic acid / methylacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride/ methyl acrylates terpolymers, (meth)acrylic acid / dimethyldiallylammonium chloride copolymers and mixtures thereof, and
  • one or more additional cationic polymers different from the polymers comprising one or more acrylic and/or methacrylic units described above, preferably chosen from the cationic polysaccharides corresponding to the general family ( 1 ) ; more preferentially chosen from cationic guar gums comprising trialkylammonium group s; better still from hydroxyalkyl guar gums comprising trialkylammonium groups ; and even more preferably the additional polymers are chosen from guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chlorides .
  • the amount of additional cationic polymer(s) , different from the cationic polymers comprising one or more acrylic and/or methacrylic units , present in the cosmetic composition of the present invention preferably ranges from 0.01 to 5 % by weight, more preferentially from 0.05 to 2% by weight, and better still from 0. 1 to 1 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may further comprise one or more additive(s) other than the compounds of the invention.
  • additives that may be used in accordance with the invention, mention may be made of fatty substances, anionic or non-ionic polymers, additional amphoteric polymers different from the amphoteric polymers comprising one or more acrylic and/or methacrylic units previously described, cationic or non-ionic surfactants, antidandruff agents, anti- seborrhoea agents, agents for preventing hair loss and/or for promoting hair regrowth, fatty substances, vitamins and provitamins including panthenol, sunscreens, mineral or organic pigments, sequestrants, plasticizers, solubilizers, acidifying agents, mineral or organic thickeners, especially polymeric thickeners, opacifiers or nacreous agents, antioxidants, hydroxy acids, fragrances and preserving agents .
  • the above additives may generally be present in an amount, for each of them, of between 0.001 % and 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic composition of the present invention is advantageously transparent.
  • the transparency of the cosmetic composition may be characterized by measuring its transmittance.
  • the transmittance measurements are carried out at 25 °C and at atmo spheric pressure, with a UV-Visible spectrophotometer, SHIMADZU UV- 1800.
  • the transmittance of the composition according to the present invention is preferably greater than or equal to 80% , more preferably greater than or equal to 85 % , and better still greater than or equal to 90% .
  • the transmittance ranges from 80 to 100% , and preferably from 90 to 100% (measurement at 600 nm) .
  • the present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibres, which consists in applying to the said keratin fibres a compo sition as described above, and after an optional leave-on time, removing it by rinsing.
  • the leave-on time of the composition on the keratin fibres may range from 2 seconds to 15 minutes, better still from 5 seconds to 10 minutes and even better still from 10 seconds to 5 minutes.
  • composition may be applied to wet or dry keratin fibres .
  • keratin fibres denotes human keratin fibres, and in particular human hair.
  • Example 1 a. Compositions
  • compositions A l and A2 (invention) and B l and B2 (comparative) were prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below (% of active matter) .
  • Locks of hair have been shampooed 5 times with each of the above compositions .
  • the silicon (Si) deposition has been measured by a WDXRF Optim’x Thermofischer (Wavelength Dispersion) XRF system on samples of 250 mg of hair. This measurement has been repeated three times for each sample corresponding to compositions A l , A2, B l and B2. c. Results
  • compositions A l and A2 according to the present invention lead to significantly higher silicon deposition compared to compositions B l and B2.
  • Example 2
  • compositions A3 , A4 and A5 (invention) and B3 (comparative) were prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below (% in active matter) .

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne une composition cosmétique utile pour le lavage et / ou le conditionnement des fibres de kératine, et en particulier des fibres de kératine humaines telles que les cheveux, qui comprend un ou plusieurs tensioactifs anioniques et un ou plusieurs tensioactifs amphotères ou zwittérioniques, un ou plusieurs polymère(s) comprenant au moins une unité (méth)acrylique, et une ou plusieurs silicones. L'invention concerne également un procédé cosmétique pour laver et/ou conditionner des fibres de kératine à l'aide de telle composition.
PCT/EP2019/067202 2018-06-28 2019-06-27 Composition cosmétique comprenant des tensioactifs, un polymère comprenant au moins une unité (méth)acrylique et une silicone WO2020002523A1 (fr)

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US3589578A (en) 1968-01-20 1971-06-29 Monforts Fa A Tension-relieving device for stretchable sheet material
FR2077143A5 (fr) 1970-01-30 1971-10-15 Gaf Corp
US4031307A (en) 1976-05-03 1977-06-21 Celanese Corporation Cationic polygalactomannan compositions
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US4957732A (en) 1988-12-29 1990-09-18 L'oreal Shaving composition for the skin based on polyorgano-siloxanes containing an acyloxyalkyl group and process for use
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EP0530974A1 (fr) 1991-08-05 1993-03-10 Unilever Plc Compositions pour le soin des cheveux
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EP0582152A2 (fr) 1992-07-28 1994-02-09 Mitsubishi Chemical Corporation Composition cosmétique pour les cheveux
WO1995000578A1 (fr) 1993-06-24 1995-01-05 The Procter & Gamble Company Copolymeres de polyolefine modifies au siloxane
EP0640105A1 (fr) 1992-05-15 1995-03-01 The Procter & Gamble Company Agents adhesifs contenant un polymere a greffe polysiloxane et leur compositions cosmetiques
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DE102011089650A1 (de) * 2011-12-22 2012-08-23 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Haarreinigungs- und/oder Haarkonditioniermittel, enthaltend (C8 bis C20)-Alkane, Dimethylpolysiloxan, Dimethiconol und 0,1 bis 60,0 Gew.-% mindestens eines Tensids
US20160271195A1 (en) * 2013-11-19 2016-09-22 Dsm Ip Assets B.V. Use of an edelweiss extract in hair care for the prevention of hair graying
WO2018007332A1 (fr) * 2016-07-06 2018-01-11 Unilever Plc Composés pour hygiène intime.
US20180015009A1 (en) * 2015-12-30 2018-01-18 International Flavors & Fragrances Inc. Microcapsule compositions with improved deposition

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US3589578A (en) 1968-01-20 1971-06-29 Monforts Fa A Tension-relieving device for stretchable sheet material
FR2077143A5 (fr) 1970-01-30 1971-10-15 Gaf Corp
US4031307A (en) 1976-05-03 1977-06-21 Celanese Corporation Cationic polygalactomannan compositions
FR2393573A1 (fr) 1977-06-10 1979-01-05 Gaf Corp Preparations capillaires contenant un copolymere de vinylpyrrolidone
US4131576A (en) 1977-12-15 1978-12-26 National Starch And Chemical Corporation Process for the preparation of graft copolymers of a water soluble monomer and polysaccharide employing a two-phase reaction system
US4185087A (en) 1977-12-28 1980-01-22 Union Carbide Corporation Hair conditioning compositions containing dialkylamino hydroxy organosilicon compounds and their derivatives
EP0186507A2 (fr) 1984-12-22 1986-07-02 Chisso Corporation Composés siloxane contenant un groupe carboxyle
US4728571A (en) 1985-07-19 1988-03-01 Minnesota Mining And Manufacturing Company Polysiloxane-grafted copolymer release coating sheets and adhesive tapes
FR2589476A1 (fr) 1985-10-30 1987-05-07 Rhone Poulenc Spec Chim Additif silicone pour polychlorure de vinyle
US4693935A (en) 1986-05-19 1987-09-15 Minnesota Mining And Manufacturing Company Polysiloxane-grafted copolymer pressure sensitive adhesive composition and sheet materials coated therewith
US4957732A (en) 1988-12-29 1990-09-18 L'oreal Shaving composition for the skin based on polyorgano-siloxanes containing an acyloxyalkyl group and process for use
US4972037A (en) 1989-08-07 1990-11-20 Minnesota Mining And Manufacturing Company Polysiloxane-grafted copolymer topical binder composition with novel fluorochemical comonomer and method of coating therewith
EP0412704A2 (fr) 1989-08-07 1991-02-13 The Procter & Gamble Company Compositions pour traiter et fixer la chevelure
EP0412707A1 (fr) 1989-08-07 1991-02-13 The Procter & Gamble Company Compositions pour le conditionnement et la mise en forme des cheveux
EP0530974A1 (fr) 1991-08-05 1993-03-10 Unilever Plc Compositions pour le soin des cheveux
WO1993023009A1 (fr) 1992-05-12 1993-11-25 Minnesota Mining And Manufacturing Company Polymeres utilises dans des compositions cosmetiques et des produits de soins
EP0640105A1 (fr) 1992-05-15 1995-03-01 The Procter & Gamble Company Agents adhesifs contenant un polymere a greffe polysiloxane et leur compositions cosmetiques
EP0582152A2 (fr) 1992-07-28 1994-02-09 Mitsubishi Chemical Corporation Composition cosmétique pour les cheveux
WO1995000578A1 (fr) 1993-06-24 1995-01-05 The Procter & Gamble Company Copolymeres de polyolefine modifies au siloxane
US6113892A (en) * 1997-12-23 2000-09-05 Helene Curtis, Inc. Compositions for cleansing, conditioning and moisturizing hair and skin
US20030103929A1 (en) * 2001-09-11 2003-06-05 Mireille Maubru Cosmetic compositions containing a methacrylic acid copolymer, a silicone and a cationic polymer, and uses thereof
US20050164896A1 (en) * 2004-01-23 2005-07-28 Unilever Home & Personal Care Usa, Division Of Conopco, Inc. Mild, viscous cleansing composition with versatile compatibility and enhanced conditioning
DE102011089650A1 (de) * 2011-12-22 2012-08-23 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Haarreinigungs- und/oder Haarkonditioniermittel, enthaltend (C8 bis C20)-Alkane, Dimethylpolysiloxan, Dimethiconol und 0,1 bis 60,0 Gew.-% mindestens eines Tensids
US20160271195A1 (en) * 2013-11-19 2016-09-22 Dsm Ip Assets B.V. Use of an edelweiss extract in hair care for the prevention of hair graying
US20180015009A1 (en) * 2015-12-30 2018-01-18 International Flavors & Fragrances Inc. Microcapsule compositions with improved deposition
WO2018007332A1 (fr) * 2016-07-06 2018-01-11 Unilever Plc Composés pour hygiène intime.

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"Cosmetics and Toiletries", vol. 91, January 1976, pages: 27 - 32
TODDBYERS, VOLATILE SILICONE FLUIDS FOR COSMETICS
WALTER NOLL: "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones", 1968, ACADEMIC PRESS

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