WO2019162467A1

WO2019162467A1 - Cosmetic use of a lemon savory hydrolate for improving the skin's barrier function

Info

Publication number: WO2019162467A1
Application number: PCT/EP2019/054488
Authority: WO
Inventors: Marion GABANT; Corinne Ferraris
Original assignee: LOreal SA
Current assignee: LOreal SA
Priority date: 2018-02-23
Filing date: 2019-02-22
Publication date: 2019-08-29
Anticipated expiration: 2020-08-23
Also published as: FR3078257A1; FR3078257B1

Abstract

The present invention relates to the cosmetic use of at least one hydrolate of lemon savory, in particular Satureja montana L. ssp. citriodora, or of a cosmetic composition comprising said hydrolate, for improving the skin's barrier function.

Description

COSMETIC USE OF A LEMON SAVORY HYDROLATE FOR IMPROVING THE SKIN’S BARRIER FUNCTION The present invention relates to the field of active agents that are capable of improving the barrier function of the skin, for a cosmetic application.

The skin is the primary barrier for protecting the body from the external environment. Human skin consists of several compartments, three of which cover the whole of the body, namely a superficial compartment, which is the epidermis, the dermis and a deep compartment, which is the hypodermis.

Natural human epidermis is composed mainly of three types of cells, namely keratinocytes, which form the vast majority, melanocytes and Langerhans cells. Each of these three types of cells contributes, by virtue of its intrinsic functions, to the essential role played in the body by the skin, especially the role of protecting the body against external attacking factors, which is known as the“ barrier function

The epidermis is conventionally divided into a basal layer of keratinocytes constituting the germinative layer of the epidermis, a spinous layer constituted of several layers of polyhedral cells positioned on the germinative layers, one to three "granular" layers and finally the comified layer (or stratum corneum ), constituted of a set of layers of keratinocytes at the terminal stage of their differentiation, known as comeocytes. Comeocytes are anuclear cells mainly composed of a fibrous material containing cytokeratins, surrounded by a very strong structure 15 nm thick, known as the comified envelope. Stacking of these comeocytes constitutes the comified layer which is responsible for the barrier function of the epidermis.

The comified layer constitutes a veritable protective barrier against exogenous factors and endogenous water loss. Its correct renewal and also the quality of its structure are essential for providing an effective barrier against the external environment and for limiting water losses caused by dehydration and dry skin (Velarde MC. J. Invest. Dermatol., 2017, 137, 1206). Among the factors involved in correct regulation of the stratum corneum is the enzyme transglutaminase- 1 (TGM-l). Its role is fully illustrated in ichthyosis, a comification disease, associated with TGM-l mutations (Vega VL and Mehta RC, Clin. Insights, 2016, 1-2; Herman ML et al., Human Mutat., 2009, 30, 537).

The cohesion of the epidermis as a water barrier is provided by means of the tight junctions between keratinocytes. These tight junctions are formed from transmembrane proteins such as occludin (OCL) and claudin (CLDN-l) and are located in the granulous layer. Other proteins, such as the Zonula occludens (ZO) proteins, connect these transmembrane proteins to the cytoskeleton so as to allow the granulous cytoplasmic scaffolding (Jin SP et al., J. Dermatol. Sci., 2016, 84, 97; Velarde MC, J. Invest. Dermatol., 2017, 137, 1206, Brandner JM et al., Tissue Barrier, 2015, 3, 1).

Finally, the phase of transition of the granulous layer into the comified layer is essential for forming a skin barrier of quality, ensuring the homeostasis of the body. Among the factors involved in this transition that may be distinguished are the transglutaminases, including transglutaminase 1 (TGM-l).

Reinforcing the quality of the epidermis by favouring the intracellular junctions and the cohesion of the comified layer contributes towards maintaining the functions of the epidermis and good hydration.

Admittedly, active agents have already been reported for their capacity to act on the skin's barrier function, as reported in EP 1333803 Bl.

However, the need remains, in particular naturally, to reinforce the quality of the epidermis by favouring the intracellular junctions and the cohesion of the comified layer, which are a basic feature for maintaining the functions of the epidermis and good hydration.

DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

The present invention describes cosmetic or dermatological compositions which have advantageous properties for improving the skin's barrier function. These compositions are characterized by the presence of lemon savory hydrolate as an active agent. In addition, these cosmetic or dermatological compositions containing a lemon savory hydrolate make it possible to maintain good cutaneous homeostasis by reinforcing the intercellular junctions, and participate in maintaining skin hydration.

Surprisingly, the inventors have in effect demonstrated the particular properties of hydrolates of lemon savory, in particular Satureja Montana L. ssp. citriodora, and most particularly Satureja Montana ssp. variegata or citriodora, for modifying the abundance of the markers TGM-l, CLDN-l and ZO-l on a model of normal human keratinocytes in monolayer. These properties as a whole thus make it possible, advantageously, to envisage the use of a hydrolate of lemon savory, in particular Satureja Montana L. ssp. citriodora, and most particularly of Satureja Montana ssp. variegata or citriodora, or of a composition comprising said hydrolate of lemon savory, for improving the skin's barrier function.

The term“skin" means the entire skin of the body, including the scalp. More particularly, in the present invention, the skin of the neckline, of the neck and of the face, and especially the skin of the face, and also the skin of the hands and feet, and the scalp, are considered.

According to the invention, the term“preventing" or“prevention" means reducing the probability of occurrence or reducing a risk of manifestation of the phenomenon concerned.

According to a first embodiment, the invention thus relates to a cosmetic use of at least one hydrolate of lemon savory, in particular Satureja Montana L. ssp. citriodora, and most particularly Satureja Montana ssp. variegata or citriodora, or a cosmetic composition comprising said hydrolate, for improving the barrier function of the skin.

According to a second embodiment, the invention relates to a cosmetic process comprising a step consisting in applying at least one hydrolate of lemon savory, in particular Satureja Montana L. ssp. citriodora, and most particularly Satureja Montana ssp. variegata or citriodora, or a cosmetic composition comprising said hydrolate, for improving the barrier function of the skin of an individual in need thereof.

According to a third embodiment, the invention relates to a cosmetic or dermatological composition, comprising at least one hydrolate of lemon savory, in particular Satureja Montana L. ssp. citriodora, and most particularly Satureja Montana ssp. variegata or citriodora.

Particular indications

A hydrolate of lemon savory, in particular Satureja Montana L. ssp. citriodora, and most particularly Satureja Montana ssp. variegata or citriodora, or a cosmetic composition comprising said hydrolate, may advantageously be used for improving the skin’s barrier function. Thus, according to the invention, the use of such an active agent makes it possible to exert beneficial effects for treating or preventing the cosmetic signs associated with sensitive or dry skin, such as impairment of the microrelief.

Depending on the degree of intensity of the manifestation of impairment of the skin in relation with one of the above indications, it may be a matter of an aesthetic defect. A cosmetic use of the invention thus only addresses aesthetic defects of the skin, and therefore does not exert any therapeutic effect.

The present invention is directed towards a non-therapeutic cosmetic skin care use of a hydrolate, or of a composition (cosmetic or dermatological composition) comprising said hydrolate. The term "care" means non-therapeutic care capable of producing an aesthetic effect without, however, preventing or correcting a pathological dysfunction of the skin.

Sur face o f the skin

The surface of human skin is not smooth. It has a relief reflected by fine lines, different from wrinkles, which may be observed with a magnifying glass in the case of children and by the naked eye in the case of the elderly. These fine lines or furrows criss- cross so as to form structures of polygonal shapes, namely the skin's microrelief.

The number and depth of the furrows constituting the skin's microrelief may be affected by many external or internal factors.

Advantageously, a hydrolate according to the invention, or a composition comprising said hydrolate, may be used for preventing and/or treating impairment of the state of the skin's surface, in particular following impairment of the skin's barrier function.

Even more particularly, a hydrolate according to the invention, or a composition comprising said hydrolate, may be used for preventing and/or treating impairment of the skin's microrelief, to reduce the number of furrows in the skin's microrelief, to smooth out the skin's surface, to prevent and/or treat a skin surface irregularity, in particular to prevent and/or treat a rough state of the skin, or to reduce the depth of the grooves in the skin's microrelief. Dry skin

One of the functions of the stratum corneum is to uptake and retain the water contained in the epidermis, and any impairment of its structure and/or function, especially following or associated with impairment of the skin's barrier function, may be reflected by modifications in the moisturization of the skin. The skin is moisturized by the water of the deep layers and by sweat. An imbalance in skin moisturization may be reflected by profound physiological and cosmetic consequences.

In physiological terms, dry skin is often associated with a decrease in the degree of skin moisturization and also a modification of the process of maturation of the stratum corneum. In sensory terms, dry skin may be characterized by a sensation of tautness and/or skin tension.

A hydrolate according to the invention, or a composition comprising said hydrolate, may particularly be suitable for preventing and/or treating dry skin and/or the cutaneous signs associated with dry skin.

Irrespective of its origin, skin suffering from dryness may generally present the following signs: a rough appearance and scaly feel, and also decreased suppleness and elasticity.

According to one embodiment, a cosmetic use of the invention may advantageously be suitable for preventing and/or treating dry or fragile skin, and winter xerosis.

According to one embodiment, a cosmetic use of the invention may advantageously be suitable for preventing and/or treating the sensations of tautness associated with dry skin.

Hydro late

A hydrolate is a generally very dilute product obtained from a botanically defined plant raw material by steam distillation. The hydrolate (aqueous phase) is usually separated from the essential oil by means of a physical process that does not result in any significant change in the composition.

The hydrolate in accordance with the invention may preferably be prepared according to the conventional steam distillation technique. Steam distillation corresponds to vaporization, in the presence of steam, of a sparingly water-miscible substance. The raw material is placed in contact with steam in a stillpot. The steam entrains the essential oil vapour, which is condensed in the condenser and recovered as a liquid phase in a Florentine vase (or essence jar), where the essential oil is separated from the water by settling. The term“ aromatic water” or “ hydrolate” or “floral water” or even“floral distilled water” is used to describe the aqueous distillate which remains once the separation of the essential oil has been performed, generally by steam distillation.

The hydrolate may be obtained from a whole plant, preferably a plant, a shrub or a flower, or from a part of this plant chosen from the flowers, leaves, stems, seeds, fruits, roots, petals, buds and bark, which may be in various states of dryness (dry, withered or fresh form), and mixtures thereof.

According to the invention, the hydrolate of lemon savory, a plant characteristic of the Vercors and the Alps, is preferentially obtained after steam distillation of the aerial parts of the plant that are in bloom, generally at a biomass/hydro late ratio of 1/1 and without cohobation, for approximately a period ranging from 30 min to 8 hours, preferably between 1 and 4 hours, more particularly between 1 and 2 hours, such as 1 h 30 min.

The lemon savory hydrolate is a colourless water-soluble liquid with an aromatic, slightly herbaceous, fresh odour and a lemon note, containing a large amount of water, such as greater than 90%, in particular greater than 95%, more particularly greater than 98%.

The main organic component of the hydrolate is geraniol, which is present in a content of at least 0.03% by total weight of said hydrolate, in particular approximately 0.05% by weight, for example in a content of between 0.04% and 0.06%.

Besides geraniol, the other main organic components of the lemon savory hydrolate, according to the invention, are generally nerol, citral and l-octen-3-ol.

The contents indicated herein are given relative to the total weight of the hydrolate under consideration. The aqueous phase (water and optionally the water-miscible solvent) may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1% to 99.9% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, for example ranging from 40% to 95% by weight.

Compositions

An extract of lemon savory may be, as stated hereinabove, an essential oil or a hydro late. When said extract (whether it is in the form, for example, of an essential oil or a hydro late) is used in a composition, especially a cosmetic or dermatological composition, this extract may form a substantial, major or minor part of said composition.

Another subject of the invention is a composition, especially a cosmetic or dermatological composition, containing at least one hydrolate of lemon savory, in particular Satureja Montana L. ssp. citriodora, and most particularly Satureja Montana ssp. variegata or citriodora.

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one lemon savory hydrolate. When said hydrolate is used in a composition, especially a cosmetic or dermatological composition, this hydrolate can form a substantial, major or minor portion of said composition.

Thus, according to certain embodiments, said composition may comprise less than 50% by weight of said hydrolate, relative to the total weight of this composition. For example, said composition may comprise less than 40% by weight of said hydrolate, especially less than 30% by weight of said hydrolate, less than 20% by weight of said hydrolate, less than 10% by weight of said hydrolate, or less than 1% by weight of said hydrolate.

For example, this composition may comprise less than 10% by weight of said hydrolate, for example less than 9%, 8%, 7%, 6%, 5%, 4%, 3%, 2% 1%, 0.9%, 0.8%, 0.7%, 0.6%, 0.5%, 0.4%, 0.3%, 0.2% or less than 0.1%, by weight of said hydrolate relative to the total weight of the composition.

Alternatively, this composition may comprise more than 10% by weight of said hydrolate, by weight of said hydrolate relative to the total weight of the composition

Thus, according to other embodiments, said composition may comprise 30% or more than 30% by weight of said hydrolate, i.e. for example 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 40, 41, 42, 43, 44, 45, 46, 47, 48, 49, or more than 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. For example, this composition may comprise more than 60% by weight of said hydro late relative to the total weight of the composition, which includes more than 70%, more than 80%, or even more than 90% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, this hydrolate is preferably used in a content of at least 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a particular embodiment, a cosmetic or dermatological composition according to the invention may be characterized in that it contains at least 30% by weight of lemon savory hydrolate; especially at least 40% by weight of lemon savory hydrolate; especially at least 50% by weight of lemon savory hydrolate.

According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention may be characterized in that the hydrolate, or the composition comprising said hydrolate, comprises geraniol. In particular, the composition comprising said hydrolate, may contain at least 0.003% by weight of geraniol, relative to the total weight of the composition.

For example, when said composition contains at least 10% by weight of lemon savory hydrolate, this composition may comprise at least 0.003% by weight of geraniol, relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention may be characterized in that the hydrolate, or the composition comprising said hydrolate, comprises nerol, citral and l-octen-3-ol.

For example, a composition according to the invention may be characterized in that it comprises geraniol, nerol, citral and l-octen-3-ol.

Hence, a composition according to the invention may be characterized in that it comprises:

- at least 0.003% by weight of geraniol,

- at least 0.0001% by weight of nerol, citral or l-octen-3-ol; relative to the total weight of the composition. In particular, a composition according to the invention may be characterized in that it comprises:

- at least 0.003% by weight of geraniol,

- at least 0.0001% by weight of nerol,

- at least 0.0001% by weight of citral,

- at least 0.0001% by weight of l-octen-3-ol; relative to the total weight of the composition.

The compositions according to the invention may, where appropriate, comprise a mixture of essential oils and hydrolates.

For example, a composition according to the invention may comprise an essential oil of lemon savory in excess volume relative to the hydrolate. Conversely, said hydro late may be in a volume excess relative the essential oil.

In addition, the compositions according to the invention may, where appropriate, comprise essential oils or hydrolates other than those obtained from lemon savory.

The compositions, especially cosmetic or dermatological compositions, which may be used in the context of the invention generally comprise a physiologically acceptable medium, preferably a cosmetically acceptable medium.

The term “physiologically acceptable medium” means a medium that is compatible with keratin materials and in particular the skin.

The composition according to the invention may therefore comprise water and/or any adjuvant normally used in the envisaged field of application.

Mention may be made especially of organic solvents, especially Ci-C₆ alcohols and C2-C10 carboxylic acid esters; carbon-based and/or silicone oils, of mineral, animal and/or plant origin; water, waxes, pigments, fillers, dyes, surfactants, emulsifiers, coemulsifiers; cosmetic or dermatological active agents, UV-screening agents, polymers, hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, thickeners, preserving agents, fragrances, bactericides, odour absorbers and antioxidants.

According to exemplary embodiments, the compositions of the invention may comprise at least 5% by weight of lemon savory hydrolate, relative to the total weight of the composition; and a pharmaceutically acceptable medium. For example, the compositions of the invention may comprise at least 5% by weight of lemon savory hydrolate, relative to the total weight of the composition; at least one adjuvant, such as those described above, and a pharmaceutically acceptable medium.

In particular, the compositions of the invention may comprise at least 10% by weight of lemon savory hydrolate, relative to the total weight of the composition; and a pharmaceutically acceptable medium.

For example, the compositions of the invention may comprise at least 10% by weight of lemon savory hydrolate, relative to the total weight of the composition; at least one adjuvant, such as those described above, and a pharmaceutically acceptable medium.

According to one exemplary embodiment, the compositions of the invention may comprise at least 30% by weight of lemon savory hydrolate, relative to the total weight of the composition; and a pharmaceutically acceptable medium.

For example, the compositions of the invention may comprise at least 30% by weight of lemon savory hydrolate, relative to the total weight of the composition; at least one adjuvant, such as those described above, and a pharmaceutically acceptable medium.

These optional adjuvants may be present in the composition in a proportion of from 0.001% to 80% by weight and in particular from 0.1% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The aqueous phase (water and optionally the water-miscible solvent) may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1% to 99.9% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, for example ranging from 40% to 95% by weight.

The compositions according to the invention may be in any presentation form conventionally used for topical application and especially in the form of aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic solutions, oil-in-water (O/W), water-in-oil (W/O) or multiple (triple: W/O/W or O/W/O) emulsions, aqueous gels, or dispersions of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase using spherules, it being possible for these spherules to be lipid vesicles of ionic and/or nonionic type (liposomes, niosomes or oleosomes). These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods.

The compositions according to the invention may also be in anhydrous form, for instance in the form of an oil. The term "anhydrous composition" means a composition containing less than 1% by weight of water, or even less than 0.5% water, and especially free of water, the water not being added during the preparation of the composition but corresponding to the residual water provided by the mixed ingredients.

Advantageously, the compositions according to the invention are in the form of a gel, an emulsion, a powder or a paste. In addition, the composition according to the invention may be more or less fluid and may have the appearance of a white or coloured cream, an ointment, a milk, a lotion, a serum, a paste, a foaming gel, a care product, a tonic or a foam. It may optionally be applied to the skin in aerosol form. It may also be in solid form, for example in stick form.

A composition according to the invention may comprise an oily phase.

A composition used according to the invention may advantageously comprise at least one liquid fatty substance other than the compounds present in the hydro late of the invention.

The term "liquid fatty substance" means a compound with a melting point below about 30-35°C, as opposed to solid fatty substances, such as waxes, which have a melting point above about 50°C.

When the composition used according to the invention includes an oily phase, it preferably contains at least one oil other than the compounds present in the hydro late of the invention. It may also contain other fatty substances. As oils that may be used in the composition of the invention, examples that may be mentioned include:

- hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene; hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, com oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, sunflower oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company Stearinerie Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil or shea butter oil; synthetic esters and synthetic ethers, especially of fatty acids, for instance oils of formulae RO00R2 and R'0R2 in which R’ represents a fatty acid residue containing from 8 to 29 carbon atoms and R2 represents a branched or unbranched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate or isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate and fatty alkyl heptanoates, octanoates and decanoates; polyol esters, for instance propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters, for instance pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate;

- linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as volatile or non-volatile liquid paraffins, and derivatives thereof, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, and hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam oil;

- fatty alcohols containing from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and a mixture thereof (cetylstearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleyl alcohol or linoleyl alcohol;

- partially hydrocarbon-based and/or silicone-based fluoro oils, such as those described in JP-A-2-295 912;

- silicone oils, such as volatile or non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) with a linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at ambient temperature, especially cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, which are pendent or at the end of a silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenylsilicones, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes or 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxy silicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes;

- mixtures thereof

In the list of oils mentioned above, the term“hydrocarbon-based oil” means any oil mainly including carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly ester, ether, fluoro, carboxylic acid and/or alcohol groups. The other fatty substances that may be present in the oily phase are, for example, fatty acids including from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid; waxes, such as lanolin wax, beeswax, camauba wax or candelilla wax, paraffin waxes, lignite wax or microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, and synthetic waxes, such as polyethylene waxes and Fischer-Tropsch waxes; silicone resins such as trifluoromethyl-Cl-C4-alkyl dimethicone and trifluoropropyl dimethicone; and silicone elastomers, such as the products sold under the name KSG by the company Shin-Etsu, under the name Trefil, BY29 or EPSX by the company Dow Coming, or under the name Gransil by the company Grant Industries. These fatty substances may be chosen in a varied manner by a person skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition having the desired properties, for example in terms of consistency or texture.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention is a water-in-oil (W/O) or oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion. The proportion of the oily phase of the emulsion may range from 5% to 90% by weight and preferably from 5% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The emulsions generally contain at least one emulsifier chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic and nonionic emulsifiers, used alone or as a mixture, and optionally a coemulsifier. The emulsifiers are chosen in an appropriate manner according to the emulsion to be obtained (W/O or O/W emulsion). The emulsifier and the coemulsifier are generally present in the composition in a proportion ranging from 0.3% to 30% by weight and preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

For W/O emulsions, examples of emulsifiers that may be mentioned include dimethicone copolyols, such as the mixture of cyclomethicone and dimethicone copolyol sold under the trade name DC 5225 C by the company Dow Coming, and alkyl dimethicone copolyols such as the lauryl dimethicone copolyol sold under the name Dow Coming 5200 Formulation Aid by the company Dow Coming, and the cetyl dimethicone copolyol sold under the name Abil EM 90® by the company Goldschmidt. A crosslinked elastomeric solid organopolysiloxane including at least one oxyalkylenated group, such as those obtained according to the procedure of Examples 3, 4 and 8 of US-A-5 412 004 and of the examples of US-A-5 811 487, especially the product of Example 3 (synthetic example) of patent US-A-5 412 004, such as the product sold under the reference KSG 21 by the company Shin-Etsu, may also be used as surfactants for W/O emulsions.

For the O/W emulsions, examples of emulsifiers that may be mentioned include nonionic emulsifiers such as oxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylenated) fatty acid esters of glycerol; oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters of sorbitan; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated) fatty acid esters; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated) fatty alcohol ethers; sugar esters such as sucrose stearate; and mixtures thereof, such as the mixture of glyceryl stearate and PEG-40 stearate. The composition according to the invention may also contain adjuvants that are common in cosmetics, such as hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, preserving agents, water, solvents, fragrances, fillers, waxes, pasty fatty substances, UV-screening agents, odour absorbers, dyestuffs, basic agents, acids, or nonionic, anionic or cationic surfactants. The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the field under consideration, for example from 0.01% to 20% of the total weight of the composition. Depending on their nature, these adjuvants may be introduced into the fatty phase, into the aqueous phase and/or into the lipid vesicles. The compositions according to the invention may also comprise at least one aqueous phase, said aqueous phase originating either from an addition or from the introduction of the lemon savory hydro late. The aqueous phase contains water and optionally other water-soluble or water-miscible organic solvents. An aqueous phase that is suitable for use in the invention may comprise, for example, a water chosen from a natural spring water, such as water from La Roche-Posay, water from Vittel or waters from Vichy, or a floral water such as the lemon savory hydrolate.

Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to select this or these optional additional ingredients and/or active agents, and/or the amount thereof, such that the advantageous properties of a lemon savory hydrolate according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition.

Said lemon savory hydrolate (or said composition comprising said hydrolate) is used topically in the context of a use or of a process according to the invention. Thus, according to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a use or a process in which said hydrolate or said composition are applied topically.

According to a particular embodiment, the invention thus also relates to a lemon savory hydrolate (or a cosmetic composition comprising said hydrolate) intended to be applied topically.

According to a preferred embodiment, said hydrolate (or said composition comprising said hydrolate) is used topically.

The term“topically” means application to the surface of the skin.

The application of a composition comprising said hydrolate may optionally be followed by a step of rinsing with water.

According to one embodiment, the application is repeated, for example 1 to 3 times daily for one or more days, preferably once or twice a day, and particularly over an extended period of at least 4 weeks, or even 4 to 15 weeks, with, where appropriate, one or more periods of stoppage.

The compositions according to the invention may be applied directly to the skin or, alternatively, to cosmetic supports of occlusive or non-occlusive type, intended to be applied locally to the skin. As non-limiting examples of cosmetic supports, mention may be made especially of a patch, a wipe, a roll-on and a pen.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the present invention will comprise, besides a lemon savory hydrolate as defined above, at least one additional active agent for caring for the skin, such as elderly skin, dull skin, greasy skin or greasy-prone skin.

The composition may optionally be rinsed off after having been applied to the skin. Moreover, after the application of the composition according to the invention, a composition comprising one or more active agents chosen from antibacterial agents, antifungal agents and/or powders may be applied to the surface of the skin.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, other agents intended to make the appearance and/or texture of the skin more attractive may also be added to the composition that is suitable for use in the invention.

In the context of the present invention, the term“ additional active agent for caring for the skin" means a compound which, by itself, i.e. not requiring the involvement of an external agent to activate it, has a biological activity that is beneficial to the skin.

Advantageously, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one UV-screening agent. This screening agent is chosen from UV-A and/or UV-B screening agents. Even more particularly, said UV-screening agent is chosen from water- soluble organic UV-screening agents, liposoluble organic screening agents, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly liposoluble organic UV-screening agents.

FIGURES LEGEND

Figure 1: Modifications of expression of TGM-l using NHEK keratinocytes treated with the hydrolate described according to Example 1 for 72 hours (immunofluorescence). The results (means ± standard deviations of three independent cultures) are expressed relative to the respective untreated control conditions p values of between 0.0l<p<0.05 are considered as significant (*), between 0.00l<p<0.0l as highly significant (**) and p<0.00l as very highly significant (***) (Student’s t-test statistical analysis performed in order to compare the treatments individually relative to the untreated controls).

Figure 2: Modifications of expression of CLDN-l using NHEK keratinocytes treated with the hydrolate described according to Example 1 for 72 hours (immunofluorescence). The results (means ± standard deviations of three independent cultures) are expressed relative to the respective untreated control conditions p values of between 0.0l<p<0.05 are considered as significant (*), between 0.00l<p<0.0l as highly significant (**) and p<0.00l as very highly significant (***) (Student’s t-test statistical analysis performed in order to compare the treatments individually relative to the untreated controls).

Figure 3: Modifications of expression of ZO-l using NHEK keratinocytes treated with the hydrolate described according to Example 1 for 72 hours (immunofluorescence). The results (means ± standard deviations of three independent cultures) are expressed relative to the respective untreated control conditions p values of between 0.001<r<0.01 are considered as highly significant (**) and p<0.00l as very highly significant (***) (Student’s t-test statistical analysis performed in order to compare the treatments individually relative to the untreated controls).

EXAMPLES

Example 1:

Production of a lemon savory hydrolate

A lemon savory hydrolate was prepared from the aerial parts of the plant at the full bloom stage by distillation of 5 kg by fresh weight by steam distillation for 1 hour 30 minutes in a 50 litre distillation device. The hydrolate volume obtained was about 5 L.

The hydrolate obtained comprises, as major constituents (by weight relative to the total weight of the hydrolate):

- Geraniol 0.05% by weight;

- Nerol 9x l0 ⁴% by weight;

- Citral 6^X 10 ⁴% by weight;

- l-Octen-3-ol, 6^c 10 ⁴% by weight.

The composition of the hydrolate obtained was determined by gas chromatography (GC) and mass spectrometry. Example 2: effect of the lemon savory hydrolate according to Example 1 on the reinforcement of the barrier function

A. Principle

The study consists in measuring the effect of a treatment of lemon savory hydrolate (HY) on the properties of the barrier function on normal human keratinocytes in monolayer.

The object of the study is to demonstrate, by immuno labelling, the effects of the hydrolate at three concentrations on the protein abundance of transglutaminase- 1 (TGM-l), of claudin-l (CLDN-l), of occludin (OCLN) and of the protein zonula occludens (ZO-l) using NHEK keratinocytes in monolayer treated for 72 hours.

B. Materials & Methods

The effect of the hydrolate was compared with the effect of a hypercalcium treatment (1.8 mM CaCl₂) used as reference condition.

A prior cytotoxicity study made it possible to define the three working concentrations for the lemon savory hydrolate for the rest of the study.

Treatment of the NHEK keratinocytes

The NHEK keratinocytes were seeded on l.7cm² glass slides (Millipore, R- 00753963A) 24 hours before the treatment. They were then treated for 72 hours with a hydrolate at the three chosen concentrations. The hydrolate was used directly to reconstitute the medium.

In parallel, the cells were also cultured in hypercalcium medium (1.8 mM CaCl2) in order to stimulate their differentiation and to induce the expression of the four target proteins or their cellular relocalization (reference treatment).

The experiments were performed in triplicate (n=3).

Immunofluorescence labelling of TGM-l, CLDN-l, OCLN and ZO-l

At the end of the treatments, the NHEK keratinocytes were fixed and then placed in contact with primary antibodies specific for the four proteins of interest. Fluorescein-conjugated secondary antibodies were then used in order to allow the detection of the target proteins. The table below summarizes the references of the primary and secondary antibodies used for each of the immuno labellings.

DAPI or 4',6'-diamidino-2-phenylindole, a fluorescent molecule that is capable of binding to the adenine and thymine bases of DNA, was used in order to detect the nuclei of the NHEK keratinocytes. The slides were then mounted using Mowiol.

The slides were stored at 4°C and in the darkness until six images per culture were taken, using a Leica microscope (DM 2000, 40x objective lens) and a Leica camera (DFC420C). For each of the conditions, 18 photos representative of the labelling observed were thus recorded.

Image analysis by the QWin software (Feica) made it possible to express the cell surface area labelled by fluorescence by using the pixels as area units (1 pixel = 1 pm²). A photo is represented using 4761460 pixels. The mean labelling intensity was determined for each photo. The nuclei were quantified by using a suitable program so as to relate the labelled surface area and the mean intensity to the number of cells per image. C. Results

| Protein abundance (" u relat ive to the untreated |

The hydro late tested is that of Example 1.

p values of between 0.00l<p<0.0l are considered as highly significant (**) and p<0.00l as very highly significant (***) (Student’s t-test statistical analysis performed in order to compare the treatments individually relative to the untreated controls).

The modifications of the abundance of TGM-l, of CLDN-l and of ZO-l in NHEK keratinocytes by placing in contact with the hydro late are indicated, respectively, in

Figures 1, 2 and 3.

As expected, the treatment with CaCl₂ (positive control to validate the test) does indeed make it possible to significantly induce the abundance of TGM-l CLDN-l and ZO-l, which validates the experiment.

This treatment does not significantly modify the protein abundance of OCLN reproducibly, but does, nevertheless, make it possible to observe a change in cellular localization. Under normal calcium conditions, this protein is localized diffusely throughout the cytoplasm, and is more concentrated in a perinuclear ring. It is redistributed towards the periphery of the differentiated keratinocytes, in point structures which are probably membrane-bound, following the hypercalcium treatment. It is thus probable that the hypercalcium treatment promotes the translocation of OCLN towards the tight junctions, in order to ensure the cohesion functions of these specific cell structures, as observed in the upper layers of epidermis in vivo. In general, the hydro late of the invention significantly increases the expression of TGM-l and CLDN-l under the test conditions. The protein abundance of ZO-l, for its part, is upregulated by the hydrolate at the highest concentration.

Ref: Pummi Kl, Malminen M, Aho H, Karvonen SL, Peltonen J, Peltonen SJ, Invest. Dermatol. 2001 Nov; 117(5), 1050-8).

“Epidermal tight junctions: ZO-l and occludin are expressed in mature, developing, and affected skin and in vitro differentiating keratinocytes”.

Ref: Torma HI, Lindberg M, Berne B. J. Invest. Dermatol. 2008 May; 128(5): 1212-9. Epub 2007 Nov 15.

“Skin barrier disruption by sodium lauryl sulfate-exposure alters the expressions of involucrin, transglutaminase 1, profilaggrin, and kallikreins during the repair phase in human skin in vivo.”

Example 3: Simple formulations of lemon savory hydrolate

A. Composition 1

B. Composition 2

Example 4: Facial cream

Claims

1. Cosmetic use of at least one hydro late of lemon savory, in particular Satureja Montana /. ssp. citriodora, or of a cosmetic composition comprising said hydro late, for improving the skin's barrier function.

2. Cosmetic use according to Claim 1, in which said hydro late is a hydro late of lemon savory, in particular Satureja Montana /. ssp. citriodora, comprising at least 0.03% by weight of geraniol.

3. Cosmetic use according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the hydro late, or the composition comprising said hydrolate, comprises nerol, citral and l-octen-3-ol.

4. Cosmetic use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said hydrolate is obtained via a steam distillation process.

5. Cosmetic use according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the hydrolate or said composition is used for treating or preventing the cosmetic signs associated with sensitive or dry skin.

6. Cosmetic use according to any one of the preceding claims, in which said hydrolate or said composition is applicable topically.

7. Cosmetic process comprising a step consisting in applying at least one lemon savory hydrolate, or a cosmetic composition comprising said hydrolate, for improving the barrier function of the skin of an individual in need thereof.

8. Composition, especially a cosmetic or dermatological composition, comprising at least one lemon savory hydrolate.

9. Composition according to claim 8, characterized in that it contains at least 10% by weight of hydrolate of lemon savory, in particular Satureja Montana L. ssp. citriodora.

10. Composition according to either of claims 8 and 9, characterized in that it contains at least 0.003% by weight of geraniol.