WO2019077281A1

WO2019077281A1 - Use of a cassia alata extract to combat hair ageing

Info

Publication number: WO2019077281A1
Application number: PCT/FR2018/052603
Authority: WO
Inventors: Olga Freis; David Herault; Wendy K CHAN; Solène MINE; Philippe Moussou; Mythili NORI
Original assignee: Basf Beauty Care Solutions France Sas; Basf Corporation
Priority date: 2017-10-18
Filing date: 2018-10-18
Publication date: 2019-04-25
Also published as: FR3072287A1; FR3072287B1

Abstract

The present invention concerns the cosmetic use of a Cassia alata extract, for combatting and/or preventing and/or treating and/or slowing the ageing of keratinous fibres, particularly the hair, the extract not being used in association with a non-photosynthetic filamentous bacterium extract. Moreover, it concerns a cosmetic care method characterised in that it comprises the topical application of the Cassia alata extract onto at least one area of the skin, in particular the scalp, in order to combat and/or prevent and/or treat and/or slow the ageing of keratinous fibres, particularly the hair, in particular the ageing of emerging keratinous fibre, particularly capillary fibre, the extract not being used in association with a non-photosynthetic filamentous bacterium extract.

Description

USE OF A CASSIA ALATA EXTRACT AGAINST HAIR AGING

The present invention relates to the field of cosmetics. The present invention particularly relates to a new use of an extract of Cassia alata, for combating and / or preventing and / or treating and / or slowing down the aging of keratin fibers, in particular the hair, the extract not being used in combination with a non-photosynthetic filamentous bacterial extract.

The physical appearance and phenotypic aspects of keratin fibers, especially hair such as color, density, curl, shine, volume, flexibility and style, are important in social communication and the esteem of itself. From a functional point of view, the hair also has a protective role of the scalp against external aggressions, and especially against ultraviolet radiation. They also help maintain body temperature and provide tactile sensations.

During aging, the structural and functional qualities of the keratin fiber, especially the hair fiber, deteriorate. The hair and eyelashes are thinner and more fragile. Hair is also harder to comb and structure. Eyelashes and eyebrows are more difficult to put in place and make up. These changes are mainly driven by genetic factors that add environmental factors such as ultraviolet, environmental pollutants, lifestyle degradation and physical or chemical agents. These extrinsic factors lead to premature aging of the keratin fiber, in particular the hair.

The aging of the keratinous fiber, in particular the hair, comprises the aging of the keratinous fiber, in particular the hair, and the aging of the hair follicle. The scalp that contains the hair follicles plays a role also very important in the behavior and aging of the hair follicle and consequently on the quality and growth of the hair fiber.

Keratin fiber is an inert structure of the dna type. It consists mainly of keratinized dead cells. We distinguish different types of keratin fibers according to their location, growth and functions: eyelashes, eyebrows, hair including beard and mustache and hair also called hair fibers. In particular, the keratin fiber according to the invention is chosen from the group consisting of the hair fiber (hair), the eyelashes, the eyebrows and the hairs of the beard and / or the mustache, even more advantageously it is a question of the hair fiber. In general, three major concentric parts constitute a keratinous fiber: the medulla (or medullary canal) in the center, the cortex at the intermediate zone and finally the cuticle forming the surface scales. The cortical area represents the major part of the hair shaft (90% of the total weight). It is the seat of pigmentation and gives the keratin fiber its physical and mechanical properties. The cuticle is the protective envelope of the keratinous fiber, formed of strongly unpigmented keratinized cells forming the external scales of the hair. The marrow is in the center of the hair shaft. It consists of large anucleate cells, clear or poorly pigmented compared to cortical cells.

The organ that makes it possible to synthesize the keratin fiber and in particular the hair fiber is the hair follicle. It extends under the scalp in the case of the hair and under the epidermis of the skin in the case of other keratinous fibers and can be divided into three segments of approximately similar length: the infundibulum or superficial segment, the isthmus or medial segment, the bulb or lower segment. The hair follicle consists of living cells such as keratinocytes, fibroblasts and melanocytes and extracellular matrix. The organization, cellular and molecular interactions allow the synthesis of the hair shaft. It is created at the deepest part of the hair follicle: the bulb, and grows towards the surface of the skin, especially for the hair on the surface of the scalp. The hair shaft previously surrounded by cells becomes free in the infundibulum near the mouth of the sebaceous canal, appendix which accompanies the hair follicle. In particular, the keratinous fiber that is visible at the root of the scalp for the hair or at the junction with the skin may be described as emergent fiber. The non-visible fiber at the root contained in the skin, especially the scalp, can be described as pre-emerging fiber. The average growth of a hair fiber lasts 3-4 years on average. Its growth rate is estimated at 1 cm / month under normal average conditions. The stem takes about 2 weeks from the seat of its creation to the outcrop on the surface of the scalp. An emergent stem of 6 cm takes about 6 months to be formed.

With age, the quality of the fiber decreases making it more fragile in contact with its environment. An aged hair is a finer hair, more damaged, more brittle than a young hair. The hair lacks volume of shine and vitality. The use of chemicals such as bleaches, dyes, detergents, smoothers, directly affects the structural and functional properties of the hair fiber. The impact of these products on the hair fiber can be evaluated by ex vivo methods on locks of hair. In particular, the mechanical properties concerning the elasticity and the deformation capacity of the capillary fibers can be evaluated by the measurement of resistance to tensile forces. The structural surface quality of the fiber can also be evaluated by imaging techniques such as video microscopy or electron microscopy.

Thus aged hair is more damaged, finer and in particular are difficult to comb and shaping compared to younger hair and are brittle, especially forked. This loss of surface quality of the hair is visible and unsightly. The hair also reflects less light and are therefore visibly less brilliant, less bright. This aging also has an impact on hair loss which can result in a perception of fragility and hair loss over time. The hair appears as less dense. Other keratin fibers are exposed to same phenomenon of aging altering their quality and quantity, particularly unsightly and often unwanted for eyelashes and eyebrows.

In addition, in the bulb of the hair follicle, in particular the hair follicle, the mature melanocytes specialized in the synthesis of pigments (melanin) transfer these pigments to the keratinocytes of the hair follicle, or cells of the matrix, which produce the keratinous fiber, in particular capillary fiber. With age the amount of pigments transferred to the keratinous fiber, especially capillary decreases. This loss of pigmentation of the keratin fiber may be due to defects in the genesis of melanin or the loss in the number of melanocytes that produce it. The speed and duration of the growth of the keratinous stem, in particular the capillary, also decreases as well as its diameter. All keratin stems, including capillaries do not lose their pigment synchronously over time. The gnawing or whitening of keratinous fibers, including eyelashes, eyebrows, beard, mustache, hair with age is the overall visual consequence of pigmented and non-pigmented keratin stems, the latter appearing white in color. A lightening of the eyelashes, eyebrows, beard, mustache and hair may result, from a dilution of the pigment, of an increase in the frequency of keratinous fibers, especially unpigmented hair or an increase in the loss of pigmented keratin fibers, especially pigmented hair.

The cosmetic approaches generally consist in repairing the structure of the integuments, in particular keratin fibers, to restore their integrity and / or their visual properties.

However, the inventors have realized that it is possible to directly tackle the problem at the origin of the loss of quality, quantity and color of keratinous fibers, especially the hair by directly attacking the aging of keratinous fibers, especially hair, in particular hair emerging part of the fiber, by treatment of the hair follicles of the skin and / or the scalp.

Unexpectedly, the inventors have discovered that the use of an extract of Cassia alata makes it possible to combat and / or prevent and / or treat the aging of the keratinous fibers, in particular the hair, in particular the emerging fiber, even when the extract is not used in combination with a non-photosynthetic filamentous bacterial extract. It also makes it possible to maintain and / or increase the color of the keratinous fibers, in particular the hair.

Indeed, by applying the extract according to the invention directly to the skin, preferably the scalp, it is possible to slow down the intrinsic and extrinsic aging process of the emerging keratinous fiber created during the treatment of the skin and preferably of the hair emergent created during the treatment of the scalp.

An advantage of the extract according to the invention is that it is a natural plant extract, non-toxic, topically acceptable. It is also easily formulated and can be produced on an industrial scale.

The extract according to the invention is a plant extract of the family Fabaceae and the subfamily Caesalpinioideae, of the genus Cassia.

Cassia genera are also referred to as spice rinds.

The genera Cassia angustifolia, Cassia acutifolia and Cassia senna are common.

The plant Cassia alata is more rare is in the form of a large grassy bush whose leaves are 30 to 60 cm long. The pinnate leaves are arranged alternately with 8 to 12 pairs, are truncated in length and have a length of 5 to 15 cm. The inflorescences appear on small stems and the buds are wrapped in yellow bracts.

The plant Cassia alata is widespread in the tropics and grows in tropical regions of America to Africa, India, Indonesia, Malaysia and Burkina Faso. In traditional medicine, this herb has already found application in cough and asthma therapy. This plant was also already administered against snake bites in the form of fresh leaves ingested. The leaves were used in Malaysia as a cure for helminthiasis. In Indonesia, the fresh crushed leaves of Cassia alata were used against herpes.

The patent application FR2813195 describes the use of Cassia alata extract in skin care products, in particular for combating aging of the skin, more particularly skin aging phenomena induced by UV radiation.

However, it does not indicate or suggest that this extract can be used on the scalp or on the hair follicles of the skin, in particular to combat the aging of keratinous fibers including hair.

The patent application JPH04-338313 describes the use of Cassia alata extract on the skin and / or the hair as conditioning agent to fight against their rough appearance. However, it does not describe its application directly to the scalp, or its use in the treatment or prevention of aging of keratinous fibers, including hair.

The application FR2946880 describes a composition containing an extract of non-photosynthetic and non-fruiting filamentous bacterium such as Vitreoscilla filiformis and an extract of Cassia alata to prevent and / or delay and / or limit the signs of aging of the skin and / or its annexes such as dry or weakened keratin materials.

All examples were implemented on the skin and Example 1 indicates that treatment with Cassia alata leaf extract after 6:00 has no effect on the markers involved in epidermal differentiation (Transglutaminase specific fragment 1: TGK) and the remodeling of the extracellular matrix (Tissues inliibitor of metalloproteinase 1 precursor: TIMP1) of a reconstructed skin model in contrast to the non-photosynthetic and non-fruiting filamentous bacterial extract and to the composition comprising both the bacterium extract non-photosynthetic and non-fruiting filamentous and Cassia alata leaf extract. Even after 24:00, Cassia alata leaf extract still has no effect on TGK expression.

This application does not encourage the skilled person to use Cassia alata extract alone, that is to say, not associated or combined with a non-photosynthetic filamentous bacterial extract, for the treatment of aging of keratinous fibers. and in particular aging of the hair.

The present invention thus relates to the cosmetic use of an extract of Cassia alata, for combating and / or preventing and / or treating and / or slowing down the aging of keratinous fibers, preferentially hair, the extract not being used in combination with a non-photosynthetic filamentous bacterial extract.

The present invention furthermore relates to the cosmetic use of an extract of Cassia alata, for maintaining and / or increasing the color of the keratinous fibers, preferentially hair, the extract not being used in combination with a filamentous bacterium extract not photosynthetic.

The use of Cassia alata extract is cosmetic. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "cosmetic use" means a non-therapeutic, non-pharmaceutical use of the extract according to the invention, preferably on healthy skin, especially a healthy scalp, in particular a use intended for all or part of the skin, preferably of the scalp and / or to a zone of skin, preferentially so-called "healthy" scalp, in particular to a "healthy" skin zone and / or a "healthy" scalp area.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "skin part" is preferably understood to mean the scalp and / or skin zone, preferentially "healthy" scalp, a part of the skin, preferably the scalp and / or a skin zone. , preferably of the scalp qualified of no pathological by a dermatologist, that is to say who does not present an infection, inflammation, scar, disease or skin condition such as folliculitis, candidiasis, psoriasis, ichthyosis, pathologies related to melanogenesis such than vitiligo, eczema, acne, actinic keratosis, carcinoma, melanoma, boils or dermatitis including seborrheic, alopecia or wounds or wounds. In particular, it is understood that part of the skin, preferably the scalp and / or skin zone, preferably the so-called "healthy" scalp, is a part of the skin, preferably the scalp and / or a zone of skin, preferentially scalp described as "normal" by a doctor, particularly a dermatologist, that is to say, consisting of "normal" cells, that is to say, non-pathological, more particularly non-cancerous.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "aging" means keratin fibers, preferentially hair, the intrinsic (age-related) or extrinsic aging of keratin fibers, preferentially hair (linked to environmental aggressions such as solar irradiation, especially spectra). visible, UV and / or gamma rays, environmental pollutants, fumes, rain, wind, sea salt, temperature including hot and cold and their sudden variations, moisture content including moisture or drought, lifestyle degradation and physical agents (friction such as brushing and / or rubbing on fabrics (ears, clothes), heat from hair dryers and straighteners, particles such as dust and / or sand and / or styling with, in particular, exposure to tensile, stretching, and / or twisting forces) or chemical forces, particularly used in the products s aggressive cosmetics such as coloring and discoloration, make-up, make-up removal, shampoos and aggressive hair care and / or treatment, particularly for styling, shaping such as smoothing and / or permanent and chlorine swimming pools.

It may be the aging of the keratinous fiber, preferentially capillary but also the aging of the hair follicle. Advantageously, the cosmetic use of the Cassia alata extract is for combating and / or preventing and / or treating and / or slowing the aging of the keratinous fiber, in particular of the emerging hair fiber (that is, that is to say, the keratin fiber visible at the root of the skin, in particular the hair fiber visible at the root of the scalp) commonly called "root" and denoting the first centimeter of keratinous fiber, in particular of hair fiber, in particular emerging emerging fiber during treatment with cassia alata extract according to the invention.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "fight against and / or treat and / or slow down the aging of keratin fibers, in particular the hair", in particular the fact of improving, more particularly increasing, the biomechanical parameters and / or the growth parameters and / or the surface quality of the cuticle of keratinous fibers, in particular the hair, and / or increasing the color of the keratinous fibers, in particular the hair, treated with the extract according to the invention, advantageously keratinous fibers, in particular emerging hair fibers treated with the extract according to the invention, in particular keratinous fibers, in particular hair, advantageously keratin fibers, in particular emerging hair fibers, originating from a skin, in particular from a scalp treated with the extract according to the invention with respect to keratinous fibers, in particular hair, advantageously keratin fibers, in particular emerging capillary fibers which have not been treated with the extract according to the invention, more particularly with respect to keratinous fibers, in particular hair, advantageously keratinous fibers, in particular emerging hair fibers, originating from a skin, especially a scalp, which has not been treated with the extract according to the invention.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "prevents the aging of the keratinous fibers, in particular the hair", in particular the fact of keeping biomechanical parameters and / or the color and / or the growth parameters and / or the growth parameters short of time. the surface quality of the cuticle of the keratinous fibers, in particular the hair, treated with the extract according to the invention, advantageously keratinous fibers, in particular emerging capillary fibers treated with the extract according to the invention, in particular keratinous fibers, in particular hair, advantageously keratinous fibers, in particular emerging hair fibers derived from a skin, in particular of a scalp, treated with the extract according to the invention, with respect to keratin fibers, in particular hair, advantageously keratinous fibers, in particular emerging hair fibers, which have not been treated with the extract according to the invention, more particularly with respect to keratinous fibers, in particular hair, originating from a skin, in particular from a scalp, which has not been treated with the extract according to the invention.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "biomechanical properties / parameters of keratinous fibers, in particular the hair", is understood to mean their smooth character and / or their flexibility, their resistance, their elasticity, their deformation and their strength, their property of plasticity. that is, their brittle appearance, especially their response to stretching. The biomechanical properties of keratinous fibers, in particular the hair, can be measured in particular by the analysis of the tensile force on the keratinous fibers, in particular the dry and / or wet hair and / or the tactile sensory tests mentioned below.

Advantageously, the biomechanical parameters and the growth parameters of the keratinous fibers, in particular capillary fibers, in response to stretching can be measured by the tensile test (Dia-Stron) as indicated in Example 2. The parameters measured are the elastic modulus (Pa), the elongation at break (%), the breaking force (gmf), the gradient of the post-yield plastic region (gmf /% elongation) and are normalized with respect to the diameter of the fiber capillary.

The quality of the cuticle of keratinous fibers, in particular the hair, that is to say the protective envelope on the surface of keratinous fibers, in particular the hair, has an impact in particular on the visual properties of keratinous fibers, especially the hair. Indeed, if the cuticle is damaged during aging, the scales of keratin fibers, especially hair lift and even come off keratin fibers, especially hair. Thus, the keratinous fibers, especially the hair become dull, brittle, brittle, especially forked, splitting and / or curling. They are also more difficult to shape. This loss of surface quality of keratinous fibers, especially the hair, is visible and unsightly. Keratin fibers, especially the hair also reflect less light and are thus visibly less brilliant, less bright.

Keratin fibers, especially the hair, damaged by aging appear brittle, difficult to comb, dull, fragile, thinner, lacking volume, flatter and tending to fall over time. The repair of keratinous fibers, in particular the hair, makes it possible to restore the sensory qualities of keratinous fibers, especially younger, undamaged healthy hair: keratinous fibers, in particular hair, thicker, shinier, stronger, more resistant, more dense hair , having more volume.

For example, the evaluation methods used are:

Sensory tests on keratinous fibers, especially on strands of hair, made by external volunteers trained to define their visual or tactile sensations.

- Evaluation tests by experts (including hairdressers) or self-assessment by consumer questionnaires. The tests may be carried out on volunteers having keratinous fibers, especially hair, damaged by aging. The effectiveness of a product in its formula is evaluated according to visual quality criteria or tactile perceptible keratin fibers, including the hair.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "maintaining and / or increasing the color" of the keratinous fibers, preferentially hair, the maintenance and / or the increase of the pigmentation of the keratinous fibers, preferentially the hair, and / or the decrease in graying or whitening of keratinous fibers, especially the hair and / or the decrease the loss of pigmented keratinous fibers, especially the hair, preferably at the level of the emerging fiber.

The pigmentation of keratinous fibers, especially the hair, can be evaluated by chromametry (Naysmith et al 2004) using the Lab (International Commission on Illumination, CIE) system on the principle that color is represented by three-dimensional values designed to be commensurable with the human perception of color. The L * parameter represents clarity on a scale from 0 to 100 where 0 is black and 100 is light. Thus, the percentage of white keratinous fibers, in particular white hair, can be evaluated by experts according to a reference grid of keratinous fibers, in particular of the hair, in gray level correlated with a count of white stems, according to a defined area. . The color of the keratinous fibers, in particular the hair, can be measured by colorimetry according to the Lab method as indicated in example 3. A higher value of L * (luminance) corresponds to a lightening of the keratinous fibers, in particular of the hair, a lower value a darkening. A change in the gray level of keratinous fibers, especially the hair over time can be followed non-invasively on the volunteer. The object of the invention is therefore in particular to slow down the intrinsic and extrinsic aging process of the keratinous fiber, in particular of the emerging hair, including the loss of structural quality and modifications of the mechanical properties. Advantageously, the keratin fiber according to the invention is chosen from the group consisting of the hair fiber (hair), the eyelashes, the eyebrows and the hairs of the beard and / or the mustache, even more advantageously it is a question of the hair fiber.

Advantageously, the use according to the invention is for combating and / or preventing and / or treating and / or slowing down unsightly manifestations of aging of the keratinous fibers, in particular of the hair, in particular the aging of the keratinous fiber, in particular of the emerging hair fiber, advantageously the visual and / or sensory unsightly manifestations such as, for example, the keratinous fibers, in particular the dull hair, without splinters, brittle, flat, finer, keratin fibers, especially a hair, sparse.

Indeed a keratinous fiber, especially a hair, young has visual aesthetic properties such as shine or brightness. The visual properties of the keratinous fibers, in particular the hair, can in particular be evaluated by the visual sensory tests mentioned above.

More advantageously, the use according to the invention is for repairing and / or improving the biomechanical properties of keratinous fibers, in particular hair, damaged by aging and / or for protecting and / or maintaining the biomechanical properties of keratinous fibers, especially hair, and / or to improve and / or repair the cuticle of keratinous fibers, especially hair, and / or to protect and / or maintain the quality of the cuticle of keratin fibers, especially the hair, and / or to make the fibers keratin, in particular the hair, being thicker and / or less fine and / or less brittle and / or for maintaining and / or lastingly increasing the brightness and / or brightness and / or the resistance and / or vitality and / or the volume of the keratinous fibers, in particular the hair, and / or for fortifying the keratinous fibers, in particular the hair, and / or for densifying the keratinous fibers, in particular the hair, and / or for improving improve and / or increase the growth of keratinous fibers, especially the hair, and / or to reduce the fall of keratin fibers, especially the hair. These properties on keratinous fibers, in particular the hair, and in particular on the emerging keratinous fiber, in particular the hair fiber, are durable over time because they are provided constitutionally to the keratinous fibers, in particular to the hair, in its biological structure and not in area. So they do not disappear with time and washes. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "improve and / or repair the biomechanical properties of keratinous fibers, in particular the hair", means a decrease in the elongation at break measured by the tensile test (Dia-Stron) as indicated in FIG. Example 2, keratinous fibers, in particular hair, treated with the extract according to the invention, advantageously keratinous fibers, in particular emerging hair fibers treated with the extract according to the invention, in particular keratin fibers, in particular hair, advantageously keratinous fibers, in particular emerging hair fibers, originating from a skin, in particular a scalp, treated with the extract according to the invention with respect to keratinous fibers, in particular hair, advantageously keratinous fibers, especially emerging hair fibers, which have not been treated with the extract according to the invention, more particularly with respect to to keratinous fibers, in particular hair, advantageously keratinous fibers, in particular emerging hair fibers, originating from a skin, in particular from a scalp, which has not been treated with the extract according to the invention, advantageously a decrease of at least 1%, more preferably at least 2%, in particular at least 2.5% of the elongation at break.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "protect and / or maintain the biomechanical properties of keratinous fibers, in particular the hair", a maintenance over time, elongation at break measured by the tensile test (Dia-Stron ) as indicated in Example 2, keratinous fibers, in particular hair, treated with the extract according to the invention, advantageously keratinous fibers, in particular emerging hair fibers treated with the extract according to the invention, in particular keratin fibers, in particular hair, advantageously keratinous fibers, in particular emerging hair fibers, originating from a skin, in particular from a scalp, treated with the extract according to the invention with respect to keratin fibers, in particular hair, advantageously keratinous fibers, in particular emerging hair fibers, which have not been treated with the extract according to the invention, more particularly with respect to keratinous fibers, in particular hair, advantageously keratinous fibers, in particular emerging hair fibers, originating from a skin, in particular a scalp, which has not been treated with the extract according to invention.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "improve and / or increase the growth of keratinous fibers, in particular the hair" means an increase in the gradient of the post-yield plastic region measured by the tensile test (Dia-Stron) as indicated in FIG. Example 2, keratinous fibers, in particular hair, treated with the extract according to the invention, advantageously keratinous fibers, in particular emerging hair fibers treated with the extract according to the invention, in particular keratin fibers, in particular hair, advantageously keratinous fibers, in particular emerging hair fibers, originating from a skin, in particular a scalp, treated with the extract according to the invention with respect to keratinous fibers, in particular hair, advantageously keratinous fibers, especially emerging hair fibers, which have not been treated with the extract according to the invention, more particularly with respect to keratinous fibers, in particular hair, advantageously keratinous fibers, in particular emerging hair fibers, originating from a skin, in particular from a scalp, which has not been treated with the extract according to the invention, advantageously a an increase of at least 3%, more preferably at least 4%, in particular at least 5% of the post-yield gradient. It is also possible to measure the growth of keratinous fibers, in particular the hair, by measuring the amount of keratinous fibers, in particular the hair, treated with the extract according to the invention, which are in growth (anagenic phase of the hair cycle) relative to the amount of keratinous fibers, in particular hair, not treated with the extract according to the invention, which are in growth or else by measuring the ratio of keratin fibers, in particular hair, in growth (anagen phase of the hair cycle) on keratinous fibers , especially hair, falling phase (telogen phase) as indicated in Example 3. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "improve and / or repair the cuticle of keratinous fibers, in particular the hair", restore a visual, structural and / or functional state of the cuticle of the keratinous fiber, in particular of the hair, damaged by the aging, preferably of the cuticle of a keratinous fiber, in particular of an emerging hair fiber, comparable to the condition of the cuticle of the keratinous fiber, in particular the hair, which is undamaged (and / or young), preferentially the cuticle of a keratinous fiber, especially a hair fiber, emerging undamaged (and / or young).

Improvement and / or repair of the cuticle of keratin fibers, especially the hair, can be evaluated according to the existing tecliniques in the field.

The conventional methods for measuring a repair effect are implemented on keratinous fibers, in particular hair, damaged by aging, preferentially on keratinous fibers, in particular the hair fibers, emerging and the repair effect is measured by comparison with keratinous fibers, especially hair, damaged by aging, preferably with keratinous fibers, especially emerging hair fibers damaged by aging.

Classical teclinics can be performed to test the effectiveness of the product evaluated in its solvent, or a formula for keratin fiber, especially a hair formula (shampoo, conditioners, masks, lotions, or other). They are generally used on the skin, especially on the scalp, of an individual (in vivo technique) as indicated in example 2. As an example of the methods used to evaluate the improvement and / or the repair of the cuticle of keratinous fibers, especially the hair, one can quote the observation of the cuticle by electron microscopy: it is by this technique to observe the state and / or the quality of the cuticle, by visualization and quantification of peeled scales as a control of surface damage. A keratinous fiber, in particular a damaged hair, presents in effect a detachment of scales while a keratinous fiber, including a hair, repaired appears smoother on the surface and its scales are sealed. This technique is presented in Example 2 as part of the evaluation of the repair according to the present invention.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "protect and / or maintain the quality of the cuticle of keratinous fibers, especially the hair", maintain over time a visual, structural and / or functional state of the cuticle of the keratin fiber, in particular the hair, preferably the cuticle of a keratinous fiber, in particular an emerging hair fiber, comparable to the condition of the cuticle of the keratinous fiber, in particular the undamaged (and / or young) hair, preferentially of the cuticle of a keratinous fiber, in particular of a hair fiber, emerging undamaged (and / or young).

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "decrease in the keratin fibers, in particular the hair", means a retention over time of the gradient of the post-yield plastic region measured by the tensile test (Dia-Stron) as indicated. in Example 2, keratin fibers, in particular hair, treated with the extract according to the invention, advantageously keratinous fibers, in particular emerging hair fibers treated with the extract according to the invention, in particular keratin fibers , in particular hair, advantageously keratinous fibers, in particular emerging hair fibers, originating from a skin, in particular from a scalp, treated with the extract according to the invention with respect to keratinous fibers, in particular hair, advantageously keratinous fibers, especially emerging hair fibers, which have not been treated with the extract according to the invention, more particularly with respect to keratinous fibers, especially hair, advantageously keratinous fibers, especially emerging hair fibers, originating from a skin, in particular a scalp, which has not been treated with the extract according to the invention. It is also possible to measure the decrease in the drop in keratinous fibers, especially the hair, by measuring the decreasing the increase in the drop in keratin fibers, especially the hair over time (that is to say, maintaining a constant level of hair loss). Indeed, during aging, the fall of keratin fibers, especially hair increases over time. However, this increase in the drop in keratinous fibers, in particular the hair, is not observed in keratinous fibers, in particular the hair, treated with the extract according to the invention as demonstrated in example 3. This measurement can be made by measuring the ratio of keratinous fibers, in particular hair, in growth (anagen phase of the hair cycle) to keratinous fibers, in particular hair, in the fall phase (telogen phase) as indicated in example 3 (phototrichogram) or by measurement weight of the hair fallen and collected by the volunteer treated with the extract according to the invention compared to an untreated volunteer, or appreciated only by consumer perception. According to the invention, the use of the Cassia alata extract according to the invention is not for combating the aging of the skin, more particularly the skin aging phenomena induced by UV radiation, nor as conditioning agent for fight against the rough appearance of hair or skin, or to fight, treat or prevent vitiligo.

In addition, the Cassia alata extract according to the invention is not used in combination with or in combination with a non-photosynthetic filamentous bacterial extract, in particular with a non-photosynthetic and non-fruitful filamentous bacterial extract, such as bacteria belonging to a non-photosynthetic filamentous bacterium. to the genus in the order of the Beggiatoales, and more particularly the bacteria belonging to the genera Beggiatoa, Vitreoscilla, Flexithrix or Leucothrix, preferentially the bacteria belonging to the genus Vitreoscilla, in particular the bacteria of the species Vitreoscilla filiformis more advantageously as described in application FR2946880.

The bacterial extract is in particular an aqueous or freeze-dried extract. The bacterial extract can thus be obtained by culturing said bacteria according to the methods known to those skilled in the art, or in particular to the description of the patent application WO-A-93-00741. The supernatant can be separated from the cell extract obtained for example by filtration and centrifugation as described in application FR2946880.

In one advantageous embodiment, the Cassia aiata extract according to the invention is applied topically to the skin, in particular the scalp to be treated. Indeed, the extract is intended for the care and cosmetic treatment of hair follicles of the skin, especially the scalp.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "topical route" means the application of the extract and / or the composition according to the invention to the surface of the skin, in particular the scalp, in particular by direct application or by vaporization. In particular, the skin to be treated with the aid of the extract according to the invention is the skin from which the keratinous fibers, in particular the hair fibers, emerge, to be treated according to the invention, that is to say in particular the skin at the base of the eyelashes, or the skin under the eyebrows or the skin under the hair of the beard or the mustache or even preferably the scalp. According to an advantageous embodiment, the topical route excludes application to the skin outside the skin from which the keratin fibers, in particular the hair fibers, to be treated according to the invention, especially outside the scalp, emerge and or on the mucous membranes. Thus, the extract according to the invention is a topically acceptable extract. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "topically acceptable extract", a non-toxic extract, non-irritating to the skin or the scalp, in particular the scalp, an extract not inducing an inflammatory response, in particular no allergic response, and chemically stable.

According to the invention, the keratin fibers, in particular the hair, to be treated, are those which one wants to protect against aging and / or that one wants to repair damage caused by aging. According to an advantageous embodiment, the keratinous fibers, in particular the hair, to be treated are those which are damaged in particular by the mentioned aging, which are therefore aging and / or white and / or dull and / or thin and / or weakened and / or flat and / or brittle and / or lacking strength and / or volume.

The present invention thus relates to the use of an extract of Cassia alata. The extract according to the invention may be an extract of all or part of the plant Cassia alata chosen from the whole plant, the aerial parts, the root, the branches, the small branches, the flowers, the petals, the sepals, the petioles, floral peduncles, leaves, fruit, stem and / or any combination thereof. Preferably, the extract according to the invention is an extract of the aerial parts. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "aerial parts" means the mixture of leaves, branches, stems, fruits, flowers, flower stalks or any combination thereof. Preferentially, it is a mixture of leaves and branches, more preferably it is leaves.

The extract according to the invention is obtained by any conventional method of extracting plants known to those skilled in the art. The whole plant or part of the plant concerned, such as the leaves can be so dried and / or milled before extraction.

The extraction can be carried out by maceration, by remaceration, by digestion, by dynamic maceration, by hot decoction, by grinding using a ball mill, grinding with mortar, with ultrasound, by grinding with the aid of of a mixer or sieve, for example on 4 mm sieve, or by extraction under supercritical or subcritical conditions (carbon dioxide or water), by percolation, by fluid bed extraction, by ultrasound-assisted extraction, by extraction against the current, by repercolation, by extraction under reduced pressure, by diacolation or liquid-solid extraction under continuous reflux, carried out for example in a Soxhlet extractor.

In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the extraction is carried out by maceration, in particular with stirring. The extraction temperature, in particular maceration temperature, is advantageously lower than the reflux of the solvent and in particular between 20 and 95 ° C., more particularly between 50 and 95 ° C., more particularly between 70 and 90 ° C., more advantageously between 80 and 90 ° C, still more preferably between 85 and 90 ° C.

The solvent or a mixture of solvents used for the extraction, in particular maceration, is advantageously a protic polar solvent, and more advantageously chosen from the group consisting of water, alcohols, glycols and their mixtures, in particular in the group consisting of water, an alcohol, a glycol, a polyol and a mixture of water / alcohol, water / glycol or water / polyol (such as water mixed with ethanol, methanol, glycerol and / or butylene glycol and / or other glycols, such as xylitol, etc.) in any proportion, in particular from 100/0 to 0/100 (w / w) more particularly from 1/99 to 99/1. More preferably, the solvent used consists of water as sole solvent.

In particular, the extract is obtained by aqueous extraction. For the purposes of the present invention, the expression "extract obtained by aqueous extraction" means any extract obtained by extraction with an aqueous solution containing more than 60% by weight, advantageously at least 70% by weight, in particular at least 80% by weight. , more particularly at least 90% by weight, particularly at least 95% by weight, of water relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution, more advantageously not containing glycol and in particular not containing any alcohol, more particularly containing only water.

The extraction can be carried out for a period ranging from 30 minutes to 20 hours, preferably from 30 minutes to 16 hours. Even more preferably, the extraction is carried out for a period of 1 hour.

The extract according to the invention can be obtained by extraction of an amount of 0.1 to 20% by weight of dry matter from at least a portion of the Cassia alata plant relative to the total weight of the mixture of the solvent and of the plant part (w / w). Preferably, the extract is obtained by extraction of a quantity of 1% to 20%, advantageously still 5 to 10%, in particular of 10%, by weight of dry matter relative to the total weight of the mixture of the solvent and the plant part (w / w).

In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the extract is obtained by grinding an amount of 10% of the leaves of the plant by weight of dry matter relative to the total weight of the mixture of the solvent and the leaves of the plant. and extraction with stirring in water as sole solvent, for a period of 1 hour at a temperature between 85 and 90 ° C under the conditions described according to Example 1a).

In another embodiment of the invention, the extract is obtained by grinding an amount of 10% of the leaves of the plant by weight of dry matter relative to the total weight of the mixture of the solvent and the leaves of the plant. and extraction with stirring in a water / methanol mixture (50/50 (w / w)) as sole solvent, for 1 hour at a temperature between 80 and 95 ° C, under the conditions described according to Example 1b).

The extract thus obtained is then preferably centrifuged and / or filtered and / or distilled to recover the soluble fraction, preferably the water-soluble fraction. Preferably, the supernatant obtained is filtered, advantageously by a filter having an average porosity of 450 nm. Additional steps of bleaching and / or deodorization can be performed on the extract at any stage of the extraction and according to the techniques known to those skilled in the art. An additional step of adding maltodextrin can be performed. Advantageously, an amount of at least 20% (w / w) by weight relative to the total weight of the extract and maltodextrin, preferably at least 50% (w / w), more preferably at least 70% by weight. % (w / w) by weight of maltodextrin, is then added to the extract. The extract can then be concentrated by evaporation of the solvent or dried for example by lyophilization or by spraying. In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the extract is spray-dried after addition of maltodextrin in the solution.

In an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the extract obtained is a dry extract in powder form. It may also be a raw extract that has not been otherwise purified or enriched in any of its active ingredients.

In an advantageous embodiment, the Cassia alata extract according to the invention comprises substances from the group consisting of flavone derivatives, such as flavonoids, in particular camphorated oil and camphorated oil derivatives, tannins, coumarins, anthraquinones, and / or free phenolic acids, especially p-hydroxybenzoic acid. The extracts have a different composition depending on the selected starting material and the selected extraction method.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "flavone derivatives" is intended to mean, in particular, substances which represent hydrogenation, oxidation or substitution products of 2-phenyl-4H-1-benzopyran, a hydrogenation which may already be present in the position 2,3 of the carbon skeleton, an oxidation may already occur in the 4-position, and by substitution products is meant the replacement of one or more hydrogen atoms by hydroxy or methoxy groups. This definition therefore includes flavans, flavan-3-ols (catechin), flavan-3,4-diols (leucoanthocyanidin), flavones, flavonols and flavanones in the usual sense. Flavone derivatives isolated from the Cassia alata plant are particularly preferably camphorated oil (kaempferol) and camphorated oil derivatives, such as, for example, camphorated oil-3-Osophoroside (kaempferol-3-O- sophoroside or K30S), camphorated oil-7-rhamnoside (kaempferol-7-rhamnoside), camphorated oil-3-7dirhamnoside (kaempferol-3-7dirhamnoside).

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "tannins" is intended to mean, in particular, polyphenols which are also designated, by reason of their gallic acid source, by gallotannins. They represent mixtures of substances of the pentadigalloylglucose type (C76H52046, MR 1701, 22). These are more substances that result from the oxidative coupling of the galloyl residue in 1,2,3,4,6-pentagalloyl-D-glucose, as well as their downstream products. The name coumanne serves as a synonym and is to be put at the same level as the designations cl romén-2-one, 2H-1-benzopyran-2-one, o-coumarinic acid lactone and camplire tonka bean. The coumanne represents the cyclization product of coumaric acid. Coumaric acid is ortho-hydroxycinnamic acid. For the purposes of the present invention, coumanne is also understood to mean the glucoside of coumaric acid.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "anthraquinones" is intended to mean anthraquinones or substances which represent oxidation or substitution products of 9,10-antirirene-dione, the term "substitution products" meaning the replacement of one or more atoms. hydrogen with hydroxy or methyl groups. In particular, it is alizarin, quinizarin, chrysazine, hystazarin, purpurin, chrysophanic acid, quinalizarin or flavopurpurin.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "free phenolic acids" is preferably used for p-hydroxybenzoic acid and o-hydroxybenzoic acid or salicylic acid.

Thus advantageously the extract according to the invention contains flavonoids, advantageously of the kaempferol type, in particular kaempferol-3-O-sophoroside (K30S). It may also contain catechin tannins and / or anthraquinones.

According to the invention, the extract according to the invention can be used alone in the form of an active ingredient and / or in a cosmetic composition, preferably intended for topical application, in particular on the scalp. When used alone in the form of active ingredient, the extract according to the invention is preferably soluble and / or diluted in a solvent, in particular a polar solvent, such as water, an alcohol, a polyol, a glycol such as pentylene glycol and / or butylene glycol and / or hexylene glycol and / or caprylyl glycol, or a mixture thereof, preferentially a hydroglycolic or aqueous-alcoholic mixture, still more preferably containing a glycol selected from hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol and mixtures thereof.

Advantageously, the extract according to the invention is soluble and / or solubilized in an aqueous solution containing glycerol, advantageously in a solution containing at least 10% by weight of glycerol, preferably at least 15%, and still advantageously 17.5% by weight of glycerol relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution.

Alternatively, the extract obtained is diluted and / or soluble in an aqueous solution containing caprylyl glycol, in particular containing between 0.01 and 5% by weight of caprylyl glycol, preferably between 0.1 and 1% by weight of caprylyl glycol , relative to the total weight, the aqueous solution.

Advantageously, the active ingredient is formulated so that it contains between 0.005 and 3% by weight of K30S relative to the total weight of the active ingredient.

In another embodiment, the extract may be incorporated into a cosmetic composition comprising at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient, said composition not containing non-photosynthetic filamentous bacterial extract as described above. For the purpose of the present invention, the term "cosmetically acceptable" excipient is understood to mean a compound and / or solvent that is topically acceptable, that is to say not inducing an allergic response in contact with the skin, in particular the human scalp, toxic, unstable, or their equivalents, undue.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "cosmetic composition" means a non-therapeutic composition, that is to say a composition intended for the prevention and / or care of the skin, in particular of the scalp, called "normal" by a dennatologist. , that is, non-pathological. By "normal" skin or scalp is meant here a skin or a healthy scalp as defined above. In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the extract according to the invention is present in the cosmetic composition in a content ranging from 10% to 10% by weight, preferably from 1 × 10 ^-4 % to 5% by weight. % by weight, more preferably from 1 xl0 ^"3 % to 3% by weight, more preferably from 0.001% and 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention may be in any of the galenical forms conventionally used for topical application to the skin or the scalp, preferably the scalp, such as liquid or solid forms or even in the form of liquid under pressure. They may especially be formulated in the form of an aqueous or oily solution, an aqueous cream or gel or an oily gel, in particular in a pot or in a tube, in particular a shower gel, a shampoo, a conditioner or a milk. , an oil, an emulsion, a hydrogel, a microemulsion or a nanoemulsion, in particular oil-in-water or water-in-oil or multiple or silicone, a serum, a lotion, in particular in a glass or plastic bottle or in a bottle dispenser or aerosol or spray, a ampoule, a liquid soap, a paste, a dermatological bread, an ointment, a mousse, a mask, a lacquer, a patch, an anhydrous product, preferably liquid, pasty or solid, by example stick form including stick or powder. It may be a makeup product especially for eyelashes or eyebrows such as a mascara or a pencil or a makeup removal product. In particular, the cosmetic composition is chosen from the group consisting of a serum, a lotion, a cream, a shampoo, a conditioner, an oil, a milk, an ointment, a paste, a mousse, an emulsion or a hydrogel. , a shower gel, a mask, a lacquer, a spray, a wax, a mascara, a make-up pencil, advantageously it is a mask or a lotion. Preferably, the extract is particularly suitable for the formulation of so-called neutral and soft composition for the respect of the keratinous fiber, in particular of the hair fiber, and of the skin, in particular of the scalp. The extract is also suitable for use in cationic formulations with surfactants.

Advantageously, the composition is applied to the scalp, preferably without rinsing or for at least 5 minutes before rinsing, in particular once a day, advantageously the scalp is massaged to distribute and facilitate the penetration of the composition.

The compositions according to the invention may contain any suitable solvent and / or any suitable vehicle and / or any suitable excipient, optionally in combination with other compounds of interest. They may in particular contain a cosmetically acceptable excipient selected from surfactants, preservatives, buffering agents, blowing agents, chelating agents, biocides, denaturants, opacifying agents, pH adjusters, reducing agents, stabilizers, emulsifiers, thickeners, gelling agents, film-forming polymers, solvents, fillers, bactericides, odor absorbers, mattifying agents, conditioners, texturizing agents, gloss agents, pigments, dyes, fragrances and sunscreens chemical or mineral, trace elements, essential oils. These combinations are also covered by the present invention. The CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, Second Edition (1992) describes various cosmetic ingredients commonly used in the cosmetics industry, which are particularly suitable for topical use on the scalp.

Preferably, the cosmetic composition of the present invention may contain one or more other active ingredients, leading to a complementary effect and / or a synergistic effect with the Cassia alaea extract according to the invention. It can thus contain;

a combination of sodium hyaluronate, pullulan and sodium alginate, sold in particular in a formulation containing serine, trehalose, urea and glycerin under the name PatcH20 ™ by the applicant; an anti-pollution agent such as a Moringa Pter gosperma seed extract marketed in a formulation containing glycerin under the name of Puricare ™ by the applicant;

- A butter extracted from the fruit of the tree Iningia gabonensis marketed under the name Irwinol ™ by the applicant;

An anti-hair loss active agent such as the combination of sulfopeptides, amino acids, aminosaccharides, vitamin B group, zinc and Panax ginseng extract and Artium majus sold under the name Trichogen ™ LS 8960 by the applicant;

an anti-dandruff such as hexamidine diisethionate marketed under the name Elestab ™ HP100 by the applicant, and a mixture of extracts of Piper nigrum, Inga alba and sodium lauroyl lactylate sold under the name Sanicapyl ™ by the applicant;

- a hair protector such as an extract of Litchi chinensis pericarp under the name Litchiderm ™ by the applicant;

- a soothing, anti-itching active ingredient such as rapeseed phytosterols marketed under the name Phytosoothe ™ LS9766 by the applicant.

Finally, the present invention relates to a cosmetic care process characterized in that it comprises the application topically to at least one skin zone, in particular an area of the scalp, of the extract of Cassia alata to fight against and and / or to prevent and / or treat and / or slow down the aging of keratin fibers, in particular the hair, in particular the aging of the emerging keratin fiber, in particular of the emerging hair fiber, the extract not being used in combination with a non-photosynthetic filamentous bacterial extract.

The present invention further relates to a method of cosmetic care characterized in that it comprises the application topically to at least one skin zone, in particular an area of the scalp, Cassia alata extract to maintain and / or increase the color of the keratin fibers, especially the hair. In particular, the extract used in the cosmetic care method is as described above.

Advantageously, the cosmetic treatment method according to the invention is for combating and / or preventing and / or treating and / or slowing down the unsightly manifestations of the aging of keratinous fibers, in particular the hair, in particular the aging of the emerging keratin fiber, especially emerging hair fiber.

Even more advantageously, the cosmetic treatment method according to the invention is for repairing and / or improving the biomechanical properties of keratinous fibers, in particular the hair, damaged by aging and / or for protecting and / or maintaining the biomechanical properties of keratin fibers, in particular hair, and / or to improve and / or repair the cuticle of keratinous fibers, especially the hair, and / or to protect and / or maintain the quality of the cuticle of keratinous fibers, especially the hair, and / or to render keratinous fibers, especially the hair, which are thicker and / or less fine and / or less brittle and / or to maintain and / or increase in a lasting manner the brightness and / or the brightness and / or the resistance and / or the vitality and / or the volume of the keratinous fibers, in particular the hair, and / or for fortifying the keratinous fibers, in particular the hair, and / or for densifying the keratinous fibers, in particular the hair, evelure, and / or to improve and / or increase the growth of keratin fibers, especially the hair, and / or to reduce the fall of keratin fibers, especially the hair.

Advantageously, the subject of the present invention is also a cosmetic treatment method for combating and / or preventing and / or treating and / or slowing the aging of keratinous fibers, in particular the hair, of an individual who needs it / who wishes it including the steps:

a) identification on the individual of an area of keratinous fibers, especially hair, which it is desired to combat and / or prevent and / or treat and / or slow down aging, and b) topical application to said zone of a cosmetic composition containing the Cssia alata extract according to the invention in an amount effective for this purpose,

said method does not include a step of applying a non-photosynthetic filamentous bacterial extract.

Preferably, the subject of the present invention is also a cosmetic treatment method for: repairing and / or improving the biomechanical properties of keratinous fibers, in particular the hair, damaged by aging, and / or protecting and / or maintaining the biomechanical properties keratin fibers, especially hair, and / or

maintain and / or increase the color of the keratinous fibers, especially the hair, and / or

to improve and / or repair the cuticle of keratin fibers, in particular the hair,

protect and / or maintain the cuticle quality of the keratinous fibers, especially the hair,

to make the keratinous fibers, in particular the hair, thicker and / or less fine and / or less brittle, and / or

to maintain and / or increase in a durable manner the brightness and / or the brightness and / or the resistance and / or the vitality and / or the volume of the keratinous fibers, in particular the hair, and / or

fortify keratinous fibers, especially the hair, and / or

to densify the keratinous fibers, in particular the hair,

to improve and / or increase the growth of keratinous fibers, especially the hair, and / or

to reduce the fall of the keratinous fibers, in particular the hair of an individual who needs it / who wishes it;

including the steps: a) identification on the individual of an area of keratinous fibers, in particular hair, which it is desired to repair and / or improve the biomechanical properties damaged by aging, and / or protect and / or maintain the biomechanical properties, and / or maintain and / or increase the color, and / or improve and / or repair the cuticle, and / or protect and / or maintain the quality of the cuticle, and / or make thicker and / or less fine and / or less brittle, and / or maintain and / or sustainably increase the brightness and / or brightness and / or strength and / or vitality and / or volume, and / or fortify and / or densify and / or enhance and / or to increase growth, and / or to reduce the fall,

b) topical application to said zone of a cosmetic composition containing the Cassia alata extract according to the invention in an amount effective for this purpose,

In a particularly advantageous manner, the subject of the present invention is a cosmetic treatment method for maintaining and / or increasing the color of keratinous fibers, in particular the hair, and / or for improving and / or repairing the cuticle of keratin fibers, in particular the hair of an individual who needs it / who wishes it including the steps of: a) identification on the individual of an area of keratinous fibers, in particular hair, which it is desired to maintain and / or increase the color, and / or to improve and / or repair the cuticle,

b) topical application to said area of a cosmetic composition containing the Cassia alata extract according to the invention in an amount effective for this purpose,

said method not comprising a step of applying a non-synthetic photo-filamentous bacterial extract. Preferably, the cosmetic composition is applied to the scalp and / or the hair.

Preferably, the cosmetic treatment method is particularly suitable for the treatment of an area of the hair having a loss of color, in particular bleached and / or the cuticle of which is damaged.

"Effective amount for this purpose" is understood to mean a content of the Cassia alata extract according to the invention, preferably the leaves, of between 1 × 10 -4% and 10% by weight, preferably from 1 × 10 ^-4 % to 5%. by weight, still advantageously from 10 ³ % to 3% by weight, still more preferably from 0.001% to 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

Other objects, features and advantages of the invention will become apparent to those skilled in the art from the reading of the explanatory description which refers to examples and figures which are given by way of illustration only and which in no way limit the scope of the invention.

The examples and figures are an integral part of the present invention and any features appearing novel from any prior art from the description as a whole, including the examples and figures, form an integral part of the present invention. invention in its function and in its generality.

Thus, each example has a general scope.

On the other hand, in the examples, and unless otherwise indicated, the temperature is expressed in degrees Celsius and the pressure is the atmospheric pressure.

FIG. 1 represents the images obtained by electron microscopy (electron microscopy) of the surface condition of the cuticle of the emerging capillary fiber after 6 months in the reference population (FIG. 1A) and in the population treated under the conditions of Example 2 with the Cassia alata extract of Example la (Figure 1B). Examples

EXAMPLE 1 Different Embodiments of the Invention to Obtain an Extract of the Cassia Alata Plant

In this example, the Cassia alaia plant was collected in Burkina Faso.

Example la:

100 g of dried leaves of the Cassia alata plant were crushed coarsely in a mill equipped with slides, then transferred to a glass reactor with 1 L of water. The decoction was heated to a temperature between 85 and 90 ° C, and extracted with stirring over a period of 1 hour at this temperature. Then, the mixture was cooled to 20 ° C and centrifuged for 20 minutes at a speed of 5000 g. The overflowing fluid was separated from the residue by filtration on a deep bed filter having an average porosity of 450 nm (from Seitz, Bordeaux, France). The extract is brown in color. It was spray-dried with a starting temperature of 185 ° C and a final temperature of 80 ° C. Another possibility of drying the extract is lyophilization.

Example lb:

Example 1 was repeated, but conducting the extraction with 1 L of 50% by weight aqueous methanol. The extraction took place with stirring for 1 hour at a temperature between 80 and 85 ° C, and the extract was then treated as described in Example 1 a. Filtration was carried out as described for Example 1a. Then, the alcohol was first removed at 45 ° C under reduced pressure, and then the brown residue was spray dried or lyophilized as described in Example 1a.

EXAMPLE 2 Anti-Aging Effect of Cassia Alata Plant Extract According to the Invention

Method:

A clinical trial was performed on 17 volunteers for the reference placebo group treated with a hydroalcoholic solution without Cassia alata extract and 20 volunteers for the group treated with the same hydroalcoholic solution but containing 0.25% by weight relative to the total weight of the solution of the Cassia alata extract according to Example la (DN-Age). The hydroalcoholic solution has the composition of Example 4b below.

The female volunteers were recruited with the following inclusion criteria: perception of fragile and brittle hair (self-assessment), fine or medium hair (evaluation by an expert). Only the pigmented hair was taken for the rest of the study. The habits and practices of hair coloring and styling were maintained throughout the study.

The biomechanical parameters of the hair fibers in response to the stretching were measured by the tensile test (Dia-Stron) according to the standard conditions of implementation of this test, which are well known to those skilled in the art. The tool allows to obtain a stress (or force) curve as a function of the characteristic elongation of the studied material. The parameters measured are the elastic modulus (Pa), the elongation at break (%), the breaking force (gmf), the gradient of the post-yield plastic region (gmf /% elongation). This parameter allows the measurement of the plasticity of the study material just before the breakage. The parameters are normalized with respect to the diameter of the capillary fiber. Parameters that have been modified over the course of the study are elongation at break and post-yield gradient. It has been reported in the literature that an increase in elongation at break and a decrease in the post-yield gradient could be observed on hair fibers damaged by oxidation or ultraviolet reduction or irradiation due to breakage of the bridges. free group disulfides in the cortical domain.

Treatment of the scalp with the hydroalcoholic solution without rinsing containing 0.25% by weight of the extract of Cassia alata according to Example laa lasted 6 months, due to a hair treatment per day. The solution containing Cassia alata extract was applied to all the hair. The scalp was massaged to distribute and facilitate the penetration of the solution over the entire scalp. The measurements were made after 6 months of treatment on the hair fiber closest to the scalp. This emerging fiber was created during hair treatment. The measurements were compared to the starting value obtained on the untreated fiber.

TO represents the ^1st day before treatment.

RESULTS

1. Evolution of biomechanical parameters and growth parameters over time

The results are summarized in Table 1 below.

Table 1: Effect of Scalp Treatment on the Biomechanical Properties of Emerging Fibers

A significant increase in the elongation at break of emerging fibers was therefore measured after 6 months on the reference population (Placébo: not treated with Cassia alata extract).

A significant decrease in the elongation at break of emerging fibers was measured after 6 months of treatment with the hydroalcoholic solution containing Cassia alata extract relative to the reference population (not treated with Cassia alata extract). . A decrease close to the significance (p <0, l) of the post-yield gradient of emerging fibers was measured after 6 months on the reference population (Placébo: not treated with Cassi alata extract).

An increase close to the significance (p <0, l) of the post-yield gradient of emerging fibers was measured after 6 months of treatment with the hydroalcoholic solution containing Cassia alata extract relative to the reference population (untreated with Cassia alata extract).

2. Illustrative image of cuticle surface quality of emerging hair fiber

The surface of the cuticle of hair not treated with Cassia alata extract (placebo) appears damaged (Figure 1 A) after 6 months while treatment with Cassia alata extract has preserved the healthy and young appearance cuticle (Figure 1B).

3, Capillary benefits perceived by the consumer

After 6 months of treatment with Cassia alata extract at 0.25% by weight, a significant majority of the volunteers perceived hair benefits to daily treatment of the scalp. 80% of the volunteers perceived stronger, thicker hair and denser hair.

CONCLUSION

Regular uses of dyes or other environmental factors may have contributed to the damage over time of the emerging fiber in the reference population that was not treated with Cassia alata extract. The structural and functional properties have been modified over time. This can result in a perception of hair fragility and a loss of volume of the hair over time.

Treatment of the scalp with Cassia alata extract according to the invention has made it possible to stabilize these structural and functional evolutions according to the time and thus protect the emerging hair against environmental aggression. The cuticle of the emerging hair has been preserved as well as its biomechanical properties. 80% of the volunteers perceived a capillary benefit when using the 0.25% Cassia alata extract treatment. Their hair seemed stronger, thicker and the hair seemed denser.

Example 3 Effects of a Composition According to the Invention on the Color of Hair

Method:

A clinical test was performed on 28 volunteers for the reference placebo group treated with a hydroalcoholic solution without Cassia alata extract and 27 volunteers for the group treated with the same hydroalcoholic solution but containing 0.25% by weight relative to the total weight. of the solution of Cassia alata extract according to example la (DN-Age). The hydroalcoholic solution has the composition of Example 4b below.

Female volunteers were recruited with the following inclusion criteria: pepper and salt hair with a degree of graying between 25% -50% evaluated by an expert. The luminance (L * parameter) of emerging hair fibers at the root of the scalp was measured by colorimetry. This parameter allows the measurement of the luminance with respect to the darkening and can be related to the lightening of the hair due to the increase of the degree of graying or whitening of the hair over time. An increase in L * values may be associated with an increase in hair whitening, and a decrease in L * values to an increase in darkening.

The treatment of the scalp with the hydroalcoholic solution without rinsing containing 0.25% by weight of the extract of Cassia alata lasted 6 months, due to a hair treatment per day. The solution containing Cassia alata extract was applied to the entire hair. The scalp was massaged to distribute and facilitate the penetration of the solution on the entire scalp. The measurements were made after 3 months and 6 months of treatment on the hair fiber closest to the scalp. This emerging fiber was created during hair treatment. The measurements were compared to the starting value obtained on the untreated fiber. The growth parameters of the hair fiber were also measured. Protection of the color of the hair can result from the protection against the loss of pigment from the hair fiber and / or the preservation against the fall of the pigmented hair fibers (colored hair) in favor of the non-pigmented fibers (white hair). RESULTS

1. Correlation between the rating scale of the graying level expert and the L value of luminance.

A correlation is observed between the graying grade of the hair evaluated by the expert and the L * values of colorimetry.

The results are summarized in Table 2 below:

Table 2: correlation between the percentage of white hair and the L * value:

2. Evolution of the graying of the hair over time

The results are summarized in Tables 3 and 4 below.

Table 3: evolution of luminance L * as a function of time on the population not treated with the extract according to the invention (placebo group): (Student's test - N = 28 - significant if p <0.05). Percentage of L * P-value

Measured at 3.3% 0.22

3 months

Measured at 6% 0.029

6 months

A significant increase in the bleaching of the emerging hair was measured after 6 months on the population not treated with the Cassia alata extract according to the invention (placebo group).

Table 4: Luminance variation of emergent hair placebo group of hair treated with the extract according to the invention: (Student's test - placebo group - n = 27 treated group - significant if p <0.05)

A significant decrease in the bleaching of the emerging hair was measured after 3 months and 6 months of treatment with the extract according to the invention.

3. Evolution of hair growth parameters over time The measurements are made by phototrichogram. Growing hair is counted on a small area of the scalp previously shaved from photos of this area taken 48 hours after shaving. Shaved hair that has not been repelled is considered to be in the telogen phase. The density is the number of hair / cm ² .

The results are summarized in Tables 5 and 6 below. Table 5: Evolution of hair in the anagen phase and in the telogen phase measured at 6 months of treatment in the placebo population (n = 23 - T-Student test p <0.05)

A significant increase in the amount of hair falling (telogen phase of the hair cycle) was measured after 6 months of study in the placebo population. This results in a significant decrease in the hair growth ratio (anagen phase of the hair cycle) on hair in the fall phase (telogen phase) in this placebo population after 6 months of A / T = -18% with p = 0.005. Table 6: Variation of hair in the anagen phase and in the telogen phase measured at 6 months of treatment in the population treated with the extract according to the invention versus the placebo population (n = 23 for the placebo population - n = 26 for the population treated with the extract according to the invention - T-Student test p <0.05 and p <0.1)

A significant increase in growing hair (hair density in the anagen phase) was measured after 6 months of treatment with the solution containing the extract of Cassia alata A tendency to increase the ratio A / T was also observed in the population treated with the solution containing Cassia alata extract. Example 4 Cosmetic Composition According to the Invention

Example 4a: shampoo

The shampoo is prepared by the usual methods in the field well known to those skilled in the art, by mixing the 4 phases and adjusting the composition to a pH of 5.2 and a viscosity of 2200 mPas (measured with a Brookfield apparatus (RVT, 23 ° C, spindle 5, 50 rpm).

Example 4b: hydroalcoholic solution for scalp

Phase Denomination Quantity (% by total weight)

At water 84.35

A Chlorphenesin and Methylparaben 0.30

A xanthan gum 0.10

B Ethanol 96% 10.00

C Water 5.00

C Cassia alata extract according to the example 0.25 The hydroalcoholic solution is prepared by the usual methods in the field well known to those skilled in the art, by mixing the 3 phases and adjusting the composition to a pH of 6.2. Example 4c: mask for scalp

The mask is prepared by the usual methods in the field well known to those skilled in the art, by mixing the 4 phases and adjusting the composition to a pH of 4.1 and a viscosity of 26,000 mPas (measured with a device Brookfield (RVT, 23 ° C, spindle 5, 50 rpm).

Claims

1. Cosmetic use of an extract of Cassia alata, for combating and / or preventing and / or treating and / or slowing down the aging of keratinous fibers, in particular the hair, the extract not being used in combination with an extract of non-photosynthetic filamentous bacteria.

2. Use according to claim 1 for combating and / or preventing and / or treating and / or slowing the aging of the emerging keratin fiber, advantageously emerging hair fiber.

3. Use according to any one of claims 1 or 2, for combating and / or preventing and / or treating and / or slowing the unsightly manifestations of aging of keratinous fibers, especially the hair, in particular the aging of the keratinous fiber. emerging, advantageously emerging hair fiber.

4. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 3 for repairing and / or improving the biomechanical properties of keratinous fibers, especially hair, damaged by aging and / or for protecting and / or maintaining the biomechanical properties of keratinous fibers. , in particular hair, and / or to maintain and / or increase the color of the keratin fibers, in particular the hair, and / or to improve and / or repair the cuticle of keratinous fibers, in particular the hair, and / or to protect and / / or maintain the cuticle quality of the keratinous fibers, in particular the hair, and / or to make the keratinous fibers, in particular the hair, thicker and / or less fine and / or less brittle and / or to maintain and / or increase lasting way the brightness and / or the brightness and / or the resistance and / or the vitality and / or the volume of the keratinous fibers, in particular the hair, and / or for fortifying the keratinous fibers, in particular the hair and / or to densify the keratinous fibers, especially the hair and / or to improve and / or increase the growth of keratinous fibers, especially the hair, and / or to reduce the fall of keratin fibers, especially the hair.

5. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the Cassia alata extract is an extract of leaves.

6. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the Cassia alata extract is obtained by extraction in a solvent selected from the group consisting of water, alcohols, glycols and mixtures thereof, advantageously by aqueous extraction.

7. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the Cassia alata extract contains flavonoids, preferably kaempferol-3-O-sophoroside.

8. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the Cassia alata extract is in the form of a cosmetic composition further comprising a cosmetically acceptable excipient, said composition not containing an extract of non-photosynthetic filamentous bacteria.

9. Use according to claim 8, characterized in that the cosmetic composition is intended for topical application to the skin or the scalp, preferably on the scalp.

10. Use according to any one of claims 8 or 9, characterized in that the extract of Cassia alata is present in the cosmetic composition in an amount ranging from lxl 0 ^"4% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0 lxl ^"4% to 5% by weight, more preferably from lxl ^{0" 3%} to 3% by weight, still more preferably 0.001% and 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. Use according to any one of claims 8 to 10, characterized in that the cosmetic composition is selected from the group consisting of a serum, a lotion, a cream, a shampoo, a conditioner, an oil, a milk , an ointment, a paste, a mousse, an emulsion, a hydrogel, a shower gel, a mask, a lacquer, a spray, a wax, a mascara, a make-up pencil, advantageously it is a mask or a lotion.

12. Cosmetic treatment process characterized in that it comprises the application topically to at least one skin zone, preferably the scalp, Cassia alata extract to control and / or prevent and / or treat and / or slowing the aging of the keratinous fibers, in particular the hair, in particular the aging of the emergent keratin fiber, in particular of the emergent capillary fiber, the extract not being used in association with a non-photosynthetic filamentous bacterial extract.

13. Cosmetic treatment method according to claim 12, characterized in that the extract of Cassia alata is as defined in any one of claims 5 to 1 1.

14. Cosmetic treatment method according to any one of claims 12 or 13, for combating and / or preventing and / or treating and / or slowing the unsightly manifestations of aging of keratin fibers, especially the hair, in particular the aging of the skin. emerging keratin fiber, especially emerging hair fiber.

15. Cosmetic treatment method according to any one of claims 12 to 14, for repairing and / or improving the biomechanical properties of the fibers. keratinous, in particular hair, damaged by aging and / or to protect and / or maintain the biomechanical properties of keratinous fibers, in particular the hair, and / or to maintain and / or increase the color of the keratinous fibers, in particular the hair, and / or to improve and / or repair the cuticle of keratinous fibers, in particular the hair, and / or to protect and / or maintain the quality of the cuticle of keratinous fibers, in particular the hair, and / or to make the keratin fibers, in particular the hair, which is thicker and / or less fine and / or less brittle and / or to maintain and / or increase in a lasting manner the brightness and / or the brightness and / or the resistance and / or the vitality and / or the volume keratinous fibers, in particular hair, and / or for fortifying keratin fibers, in particular the hair, and / or for densifying keratinous fibers, in particular the hair, and / or for improving and / or increasing growth keratin fibers, especially hair, and / or to reduce the fall of keratinous fibers, especially the hair.