WO2019047000A1 - 一种含有红球姜花苞提取物的无硅洗发水 - Google Patents

一种含有红球姜花苞提取物的无硅洗发水 Download PDF

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WO2019047000A1
WO2019047000A1 PCT/CN2017/100471 CN2017100471W WO2019047000A1 WO 2019047000 A1 WO2019047000 A1 WO 2019047000A1 CN 2017100471 W CN2017100471 W CN 2017100471W WO 2019047000 A1 WO2019047000 A1 WO 2019047000A1
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shampoo
weight
polyglycerol
foam
present
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PCT/CN2017/100471
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English (en)
French (fr)
Inventor
赵文忠
洪盛杰
林学镁
谷志静
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拉芳家化股份有限公司
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Priority to CN201780005742.5A priority Critical patent/CN109757099B/zh
Priority to PCT/CN2017/100471 priority patent/WO2019047000A1/zh
Publication of WO2019047000A1 publication Critical patent/WO2019047000A1/zh

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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37Esters of carboxylic acids
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/42Amides
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/85Polyesters
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9794Liliopsida [monocotyledons]
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02Preparations for cleaning the hair

Definitions

  • the invention belongs to the field of daily chemistry, and in particular relates to a silicone-free oil shampoo containing a plant extract, which is obtained from a red ball ginger flower bud.
  • Plant or herbal extracts have been used in hair cleaning products such as shampoos.
  • Traditional Chinese medicine extracts are used in hair cleaning products to consider a variety of factors and need to be selected according to their special efficacy characteristics. For example, some plant extracts take the natural sensation of aroma, and some plant extracts can enhance the quality of the foam and the conditioning of the hair. Some plant extracts are good for dry scalp or hair, and some plant extracts are increased. Hair abundance even has an effect on the brightness of the head.
  • Ginger is a plant closely related to people's lives, and it has a long history of application in beauty salons and personal care. In the application of ginger, each type of ginger has its own characteristics and is used for different purposes.
  • Ginger is a perennial herb, ginger (scientific name: Zingiber officinale), divided into various types, with ginger (white ginger), turmeric, red ginger, white ginger has a good aromatic character, turmeric, ginger or red
  • the roots of gingiber are edible or medicinal.
  • Canoe Plants of Ancient Hawai ⁇ i http://www.canoeplants.com/awapuhi.html
  • red ball ginger can be used in both aromatic and shampoo compositions for cleansing and hairdressing
  • the red ball ginger flower calyx extract can be used to develop a more natural-looking shampoo.
  • Red ball ginger is a perennial herb of the family Zingiberaceae, with a plant height of 0.6-2 m; the total peduncle is 10-30 cm long; The order is fruit-shaped, 6-15 cm long, 3.5-5 cm wide, and flowering period 7-10 months. From July to August, the bracts are pale green, and gradually become red balls in September-October. Shaped like a red flame ball, hence the name red ball ginger. Produced in Guangdong, Guangxi, Yunnan and other provinces; born in the shade of the forest. Widely distributed in tropical Asia. The rhizome can detoxify, treat abdominal pain, diarrhea, and extract aromatic oil for blending essential ingredients.
  • the object of the present invention is to achieve a silicon-free shampoo containing a red ball ginger bud extract which, in addition to containing shampoo acceptable components, also contains:
  • ammonium lauryl ammonium sulfate which accounts for 8% by weight of the shampoo, and ammonium laureth sulfate, which accounts for 12% by weight of the shampoo, and cocamidopropyl betaine, which accounts for 6% by weight of the shampoo;
  • a silicon-free shampoo containing red ball ginger flower bud extract the composition and content of which are:
  • the present invention has the following advantages:
  • the invention comprises a silicon-free shampoo containing red ball ginger flower bud extract, which has more excellent foam amount, foam structure and foam touch and good cleanability, and good foam characteristics enhance the good experience during the shampooing process, such as abundance
  • the foamy sensory and cotton-like foam touch can increase the touch feeling when shampooing the head and the suppleness during rinsing, etc.
  • the combination of the red ball ginger flower bud extract and polyglycerin and polyglycerol ester shows good foam characteristics. It has a synergistic effect with cleansing and is mild and suitable for the cleansing of the scalp and hair.
  • the surfactant used in the present invention may be a sulfate type surfactant system or an amino acid surfactant system.
  • the surfactant system of the amino acid surfactant system of the present invention and related supporting materials such as cocoyl glutamate such as: cocoyl glutamic acid TEA salt, cocoyl glutamate potassium, cocoyl glutamine Sodium; cocoyl sarcosinate such as sodium cocoyl sarcosinate, potassium cocoyl sarcosinate and cocoyl sarcosine TEA salt.
  • cocoyl glutamate such as: cocoyl glutamic acid TEA salt, cocoyl glutamate potassium, cocoyl glutamine Sodium
  • cocoyl sarcosinate such as sodium cocoyl sarcosinate, potassium cocoyl sarcosinate and cocoyl sarcosine TEA salt.
  • amino acid surfactant system may be accompanied by a co-surfactant such as: C14-16 sodium olefin sulfonate, lauroyl propyl betaine, cocamide methyl MEA, glycerol laurate, PEG-7 glyceryl coco Ester and cationic polymers such as polyquaternium-10, cationic guar gum and the like which have been cosmetically acceptable carriers such as perfumes, preservatives, colors, chelating agents and the like.
  • a co-surfactant such as: C14-16 sodium olefin sulfonate, lauroyl propyl betaine, cocamide methyl MEA, glycerol laurate, PEG-7 glyceryl coco Ester
  • cationic polymers such as polyquaternium-10, cationic guar gum and the like which have been cosmetically acceptable carriers such as perfumes, preservatives, colors, chelating agents and the like.
  • the surfactant system contained in the shampoo of the present invention preferably uses a sulfate type anionic surfactant system.
  • the properties and amounts of the surfactants in the sulphate surfactant system are as follows, for example, a composition comprising 5-40% by weight of the silicon-free shampoo of ammonium lauryl sulfate and lauryl sulphate, The ratio of ammonium lauryl sulfate to lauryl polyoxyethylene ether ammonium sulfate is 1:2 to 2:1.
  • a transparent viscous liquid, 70% active content of ammonium laureth sulfate is a white or light yellow paste, preferably ammonium laureth sulfate having an active content of 70%.
  • the lauryl alcohol polyoxyethylene ether ammonium sulfate also has the characteristics of a nonionic surfactant, and still has a good decontamination ability in hard water.
  • the compounding of ammonium lauryl sulfate and lauryl polyoxyethyl ether sulfate can produce good synergistic effects, such as: dense and abundant foam, extremely mild feeling, excellent thickening performance and the like.
  • ammonium lauryl sulfate accounts for 8% by weight of the shampoo of the present invention
  • ammonium lauryl ether polyoxyethylene ether accounts for 12% by weight of the shampoo of the present invention.
  • the sulphate type epidermal system further comprises 1.0% to 10.0% by weight of the silicon-free shampoo, and the sodium cocoamphoacetate or cocamidopropyl betaine is colorless to micro.
  • a yellow transparent viscous liquid having a commercial product having an active content of 30%, a viscosity of 5000-10000 at 25 ° C, a sodium chloride content of less than 9.0%, and a pH of a 1% aqueous solution of 6.0-8.0.
  • the coconut oil-based amphoteric acid sodium acetate has low irritation, is particularly mild to the skin and eyes, and is compatible with an anionic surfactant to significantly reduce the irritation, and has good foaming power, and the foam is rich and fine.
  • the cocamidopropyl betaine is a yellowish transparent liquid, and the commercially available product has an active content of 30%, a sodium chloride content of less than 6.0%, a free amine content of less than 0.10%, and a pH of the 1% aqueous solution. 5.0-7.0, the structural formula is RCONH(CH 2 ) 3 N + (CH 3 ) 2 CH 2 COO - .
  • the cocamidopropyl betaine has excellent compatibility, has excellent foaming property and remarkable thickening property, and has good resistance to hard water, antistatic property and biodegradability, and cocoamide is preferred in the present invention.
  • Propyl betaine, cocamidopropyl betaine in the present invention accounts for 6% by weight of the shampoo of the present invention.
  • the shampoo composition of the present invention contains from 0.05% to 3.0% by weight of the composition of a cationic polymer selected from at least one of a cationic cellulose polymer and a cationic guar polymer.
  • the cationic cellulose polymer is hydroxyethyl cellulose and alkyl trimethyl
  • the copolymer of ammonium chloride can be classified into three types: high cationic substitution degree JR, medium cationic substitution degree LR and low cationic substitution degree LK according to the degree of cationic substitution, and a cationic cellulose polymer having a high cationic substitution degree is preferable.
  • polyquaternium-10, other cationic cellulose polymers suitable for use in the present invention are also copolymers of hydroxyethyl cellulose and dialkyldimethylammonium chloride; the cationic guar gum is The product obtained after quaternization of guar gum is mainly composed of guar gum propyltrimethylammonium chloride. According to the degree of substitution, a series of cationic guar gum products can be obtained, and the degree of substitution is preferably 0.1 to 0.2, the cationic guar gum used in the present invention has a viscosity of 1% aqueous solution of 2000 mPa.s to 4000 mPa.s at 25 °C.
  • the cationic guar polymer is preferred in the present invention, and the cationic guar polymer of the present invention comprises 0.15% by weight of the shampoo of the present invention.
  • the hair conditioner component of the present invention can be used in addition to conventional cationic polymers such as polyquaternium-10 and cationic guar gum, and polyglycerol and polyglycerol esters can be used.
  • the shampoo of the present invention is a silicone oil-free shampoo
  • the conditioning agent of the present invention is preferably a glyceride
  • the polyglycerin and glyceride suitable for use in the present invention are selected from the group consisting of: polyglycerol- 2, polyglycerol-6, polyglycerol-10, polyglyceryl-10 decaoleate, polyglyceryl-6 distearate, polyglycerol-6 oleate, polyglycerol-6 dioleate, glycerol-6 dioleate, glycerol - 6 hexaoleate, polyglyceryl-10 stearate, and mixtures thereof.
  • the polyglycerol selected in the present invention is polyglycerol-10, and the selected polyglycerin conditioning agent has an HLB value of between 7 and 10, so the polyglycerin conditioning agent of the present invention is preferably polyglycerol-6 monooleate.
  • the most preferred polyglycerin conditioning agent of the present invention is polyglycerol-6 dioleate, and thus the hair conditioning agent component of the present invention comprises, in addition to conventionally used cationic polymers such as polyquaternium- In addition to the cationic guar gum, polyglycerol-10 and polyglycerol-6 dioleate are also preferred.
  • Polyglycerol-10 looks yellow or light yellow transparent liquid, density (25 ° C) is 0.910-1.180, CAS NO.9041-07-0., polyglycerol-10, ten glycerol cyclopolymerization structure
  • the effect of forming a cage-type water lock, coupled with hydrogen bonding, has a moisturizing effect that is significant and long-lasting.
  • the hydrophobic molecules enter the cage to be locked to form the common effect of oil and water.
  • This oil-water common effect makes polyglycerol-10 continuous film formation on the skin and hair and has silicone oil elastomer.
  • polyglycerol-10 acts as a moisturizing and conditioning agent in the present invention.
  • Polyglycerol-6 dioleate Polyglycerol-6 dioleate Alias: hexaglyceryl dioleate, polyglycerol-6-dioleate, CAS: 76009-37-5, acid value (mg KOH / g) ⁇ 2.0, saponification value (mg KOH / g) 150-180, iodine value: (g I2 / 100g) 340. HLB value of about 8.0; polyglycerol-6 dioleate is light yellow to slightly yellow clear oil liquid. No impurities, odorless and tasteless, soluble in ether, chloroform and carbon tetrachloride, slightly soluble in ethanol. In the present invention, polyglycerol-6 dioleate is hardly soluble in water and can be dispersed in water.
  • the polyglycerol-10 and polyglycerol-6 dioleate of the invention form a macromolecular network structure, in addition to the moisturizing and conditioning effects of the scalp and hair, polyglycerol-10 and polyglycerol-6 dioleate and the present
  • the invention of the red ball ginger flower bud extract can also play a role in stabilizing the foam and improving the foam quality (improving the foam structure and elasticity), has a certain synergistic effect on the cleanliness of the shampoo and reduces the irritation of the surfactant.
  • polyglycerol-10 comprises 0.1-4% by weight of the shampoo of the invention, further optimized to 0.2-2%; and the polyglycerol-6 dioleate comprises 0.05-1% by weight of the shampoo of the invention, further optimized to 0.07-0.67%.
  • the remaining cosmetically acceptable carrier of the present invention may comprise a pearlescent syrup, the main active substances of which are ethylene glycol monostearate and ethylene glycol distearate.
  • the addition of the pearlescent pulp imparts a beautiful pearlescent effect to the shampoo.
  • the invention may also comprise other optional components, including viscosity modifiers, chelating agents, pH adjusting agents, preservatives Agents, pigments and fragrances.
  • the viscosity modifier accounts for 0.1% to 5.0% by weight of the composition, and non-limiting examples of the viscosity modifier are: sodium chloride, ammonium chloride, monoethanolamine chloride, cellulose derivative, acrylic copolymer, etc. .
  • the chelating agent comprises from 0.01% to 0.30% by weight of the composition, and non-limiting examples of the chelating agent are: ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid, disodium edetate, tetrasodium ethylenediaminetetraacetate, citric acid Phosphoric acid, ascorbic acid, etc., preferably disodium edetate; non-limiting examples of the pH adjusting agent are: citric acid, phosphoric acid, etc., preferably citric acid, and the pH of the conditioning system is from 4.0 to 6.0, preferably from 4.5 to 5.5.
  • the selection of the preservatives, flavors and pigments meets the requirements of cosmetic hygiene standards and uses safe raw materials.
  • the shampoo compositions of the present invention are supplemented with water to the required amount in addition to the components described above.
  • the red ball ginger shampoo of the present invention comprises the following main ingredients (the percentage by weight of the shampoo of the present invention is as follows)
  • red ball ginger extract accounts for 0.5-20% by weight of the shampoo of the present invention, further optimized to 1-15%;
  • the surfactant comprises 5-40% by weight of the shampoo of the invention, further optimized to 8% ammonium lauryl sulfate, 12% ammonium lauryl sulfate, 6% cocamide propyl betaine;
  • c) cationic polymer accounts for 0.05-3% by weight of the shampoo of the present invention, further optimized to 0.15%;
  • Polyglycerol and its ester conditioner accounted for 0.15-5% by weight of the shampoo of the present invention, further optimized to be 0.2-2.0% of polyglycerol-10, 0.07-0.67% of polyglycerol-6 dioleate, and poly The weight ratio of glycerol-10 to polyglycerol-6 dioleate was 3:1.
  • Red ball ginger flower bud extract in the present invention is 0.5-20% by weight, further optimized to 1-15%.
  • Pressing The collected calyx is placed in a press (pressing weight of about 1 ton) and then the mucus is collected.
  • the mucus contains about 2 cm in diameter of the bracts with some particles.
  • antiseptic treatment the above virgin mucilage is treated with antiseptic treatment, the virgin mucilage is added to the weight of 0.5% phenoxyethanol, adding 0.6% by weight of bis(hydroxymethyl)imidazolidinyl urea, and 0.1% by weight of EDTA- 2 Sodium, then mix and stir until dispersed and dissolved.
  • Centrifugal filtration The pre-treated virgin mucilage is placed in a centrifuge equipped with a 60-mesh filter screen at a centrifugal speed of 10,000-15,000 rpm, and the fine particles having a particle size greater than 60 mesh are separated.
  • Fine filtration the above step 5) is placed in a centrifuge equipped with a 100 mesh filter screen at a centrifugal speed of 10,000 to 15,000 rpm, and the fine particles having a particle size larger than 100 mesh are separated and finally obtained from the red ball ginger flower. Things.
  • the shampoo compositions of the present invention can be prepared by any known or otherwise effective technique suitable for providing shampoo compositions, and methods of preparing the shampoo compositions of the present invention include conventional formulation and mixing techniques.
  • the shampoo compositions of the present invention are used in a conventional manner for cleansing and conditioning hair, and include the following steps:
  • Suitable Preparation Examples Comparative 1, Comparative 2, Comparative 3 and Comparative 4, and Examples I-VI wherein the shampoo composition was prepared as follows: an appropriate amount of water was added to the reaction tank, and polyglycerol-10 and poly were added. Glycerol-6 dioleate is stirred and dispersed uniformly, then added with cationic guar gum for dispersion under slow stirring, heated to 60 ° C to 80 ° C, followed by addition of ammonium lauryl sulfate, ammonium laureth sulfate, coconut The oleamide propyl betaine, disodium edetate (if these materials are used), allows these materials to be completely dispersed and then cooled.
  • Comparing 1, Comparative 2, Comparative 3 and Comparative 4 compositions have less Roche foam height and foam elasticity (average value) than Examples I-III and Examples IV-VI, indicating that the plant extract red ball ginger along with the present invention
  • the addition of the calyx extract and the conditioners polyglycerol-10 and polyglycerol-6 dioleate have a certain effect on the improvement of the quality of the foam of the invention, and the effect of improving the quality of the foam is better as the amount of addition is increased, wherein the implementation is improved.
  • Example V is the best.
  • the test was carried out using a Ross-Miles foam tester to test the initial foam height, the foam height after 1 minute and the foam height after 5 minutes, and then averaged (see Table 1).
  • the shampoo of the present invention containing the red ball ginger flower bud extract has better foam performance than the comparative shampoo and the commercially available shampoo as compared with the comparative shampoo and the commercially available shampoo.
  • the above (a) (b) (c) shampoo is configured as an aqueous solution having a volume ratio of 2% such as 2% shampoo (a) +98% deionized water; 2% shampoo (b) + 98% deionized water; 2% shampoo (c) + 98% deionized water and stirred evenly.
  • the structure and elasticity of the foam can give people a different feel to the texture of the foam.
  • the sensory evaluation method of foam elasticity is: the score is divided into 1-5 points, and 1 point represents that the foam is easily touched and deformed. A score of 5 indicates that the foam has good elasticity, and when touched, the foam easily recovers its shape.
  • the shampoo containing the red ball ginger flower bud extract of the present invention has higher sensory evaluation values than the control product and the commercially available shampoo, regardless of the sensory evaluation of the foam structure or the foam elasticity.
  • the foam structure and the improvement of the foam elasticity greatly contribute to the touch feeling when shampooing the head and the feeling of softness during rinsing, indicating that the shampoo of the present invention has more excellent foam characteristics.
  • the above (a) (b) (c) shampoo is configured as a 2% by volume aqueous solution such as 2% shampoo (a) + 98% deionized water; 2% shampoo (b) + 98% deionized water 2% shampoo (c) + 98% deionized water is stirred and ready for use.
  • Synthetic grease is designed to mimic the composition of the oil in the hair.
  • the 5% by weight of the formulated synthetic fat was added to 95% by weight of ethanol to prepare a 5% synthetic fat solution.
  • aqueous solution is prepared and respectively contains (a) the shampoo containing the red ball ginger bud extract of the present invention; (b) the control shampoo (without the red ball ginger bud extract) and (c) the commercially available wash Hair water (containing ginger extract) 500 ml each.

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Abstract

一种含有植物提取物的无硅油洗发水,该植物提取物取自红球姜花苞。除含有洗发水可接受组分外,还含有:(A)占洗发水重量8%的月桂醇硫酸铵和占洗发水重量12%的月桂醇聚氧乙烯醚硫酸铵,以及占洗发水重量6%的椰油酰胺丙基甜菜碱;(B)占洗发水重量0.15%的阳离子瓜尔胶;(C)占洗发水重量1-15%的红球姜花苞提取物;(D)占洗发水重量0.1-2%的聚甘油-10和占洗发水重量0.05-1%的聚甘油酯。

Description

一种含有红球姜花苞提取物的无硅洗发水 技术领域
本发明属日化领域,具体涉及一种含有植物提取物的无硅油洗发水,该植物提取物取自红球姜花苞。
背景技术
植物或中药提取物用于头发清洁产品如香波已经非常普遍。中药提取物被用于头发清洁产品需考虑多方面的因素并且需要根据其特殊的功效特点进行选择。比如有的植物提取物取其天然感觉的香气,有的植物提取物可以增强泡沫的质量和头发的调理性,有的植物提取物对干性头皮或头发的护理好,有的植物提取物增加头发丰盈度甚至对头发光亮度的提升有作用等。
姜是一种跟人们生活密切相关的植物,其在美容美发和个人护理方面的应用也有着悠久的历史。在姜的应用方面,每种姜都有其固有的特性并用于不同的目的。
姜是一种多年生草本植物,姜(学名:Zingiber officinale),又分为各种类型,有生姜(白姜),黄姜,红牙姜,白姜具有很好的芳香特性,黄姜,生姜或红牙姜的根部可以食用或药用,根据《Canoe Plants of Ancient Hawai`i》(http://www.canoeplants.com/awapuhi.html),记载,还有一个品种叫作“红球姜”,也叫作香波姜,红球姜既可用于芳香又可用于香波组合物起到清洁和调理发丝的作用,其红球姜的花苞提取物可以用于开发更加天然感觉的洗发水。
红球姜为姜科多年生草本植物,株高0.6-2米;总花梗长10-30厘米;花 序球果状,长6-15厘米,宽3.5-5厘米,花期7-10个月,7-8月见苞片淡绿色,到9-10月逐渐变成红色球状。形似红火焰球,故名红球姜。产于中国广东、广西、云南等省区;生于林下荫湿处。亚洲热带地区广布。根茎能祛风解毒,治肚痛、腹泻,并可提取芳香油作调合香精原料使用。
目前根据非特化妆品备案的信息检索,目前市场上所售日化产品如洗发护发类含有姜提取物的产品有许多品牌,所有品牌产品标识的姜提取物均为生姜或白姜种类其拉丁学名为Zingiber officinale,并且姜Zingiber officinale提取物为根茎提取物,在产品中的添加量少且某些产品还添加了姜香气特征的香精,此外,没有发现标有“红球姜”的洗发护发产品,也没有发现标有“红球姜”的无硅油洗发水。因此有必要研究植物“红球姜”的特性进行无硅洗发水的开发。
发明内容
本发明目的是提供一种含有植物提取物的无硅洗发水,该植物提取物为红球姜花苞提取物。
本发明的目的是这样实现:一种含有红球姜花苞提取物的无硅洗发水,除含有洗发水可接受组分外,还含有:
(A)占洗发水重量8%的月桂烷基硫酸铵和占洗发水重量12%的月桂醇聚氧乙烯醚硫酸铵,以及占洗发水重量6%的椰油酰胺丙基甜菜碱;
(B)占洗发水重量0.15%的阳离子瓜尔胶;
(C)占洗发水重量1-15%的红球姜花苞提取物;
(D)占洗发水重量0.1-2%的聚甘油-10和占洗发水重量0.05-1%的聚甘油酯,且聚甘油-10与聚甘油-6二油酸酯的重量比,聚甘油-10:聚甘油-6二油酸 酯=3:1。
一种含有红球姜花苞提取物的无硅洗发水,其组分和含量为:
Figure PCTCN2017100471-appb-000001
与现有技术相比,本发明具有以下优点:
本发明含有红球姜花苞提取物的无硅洗发水,具有更加优异的泡沫量,泡沫结构和泡沫触感以及良好的清洁性,良好的泡沫特性能增强洗发过程中良好的体验感如,丰盈的泡沫感官和棉细的泡沫触感可以增加洗发水上头时的触摸感以及冲洗时的柔顺感等等,且红球姜花苞提取物与聚甘油和聚甘油酯的组合使用显示良好的泡沫特性和清洁性的协同效果并且温和性好,适用于头皮和头发的清洁。
具体实施方式
下面结合实施例对本发明作进一步详细说明。
表面活性剂:本发明所用表面活性剂可以为硫酸盐型表面活性剂体系,也可以为氨基酸表面活性剂体系。
本发明氨基酸表面活性剂体系包含的表面活性剂体系及相关配套原料如,椰油酰基谷氨酸盐如:椰油酰基谷氨酸TEA盐、椰油酰基谷氨酸钾、椰油酰基谷氨酸钠;椰油酰基肌氨酸盐如椰油酰基肌氨酸钠、椰油酰基肌氨酸钾以及椰油酰基肌氨酸TEA盐。此外氨基酸表面活性剂体系可以配套有辅助表面活性剂如:C14-16烯烃磺酸钠、月桂酰按丙基甜菜碱、椰油酰胺甲基MEA、甘油月桂酸酯、PEG-7甘油椰油酸酯以及阳离子聚合物如聚季铵盐-10,阳离子瓜尔胶等已经化妆品可接受的载体如:香精、防腐剂、色素、螯合剂等等。
为了与市售的产品进行对比,本发明洗发水所含表面活性剂体系优选使用硫酸盐型阴离子表面活性剂体系。
硫酸盐型表面活性剂体系中各表面活性剂的性能及用量如下如,含有占无硅洗发水重量5-40%的月桂醇硫酸铵和月桂醇聚氧乙烯醚硫酸铵的组合物,所述月桂醇硫酸铵与月桂醇聚氧乙烯醚硫酸铵的比例为1:2-2:1。所述月桂醇硫酸铵简称K12A或SLSA,其结构式为:ROSO3NH4 +,R=C12-C18烷基,市售脂肪醇硫酸铵优选活性物含量为70%,其外观为白色或淡黄色糊状物,所述月桂醇硫酸铵具有的良好的去污力、抗硬水性、较低的刺激性、较高的发泡力以及优异的配伍性能。所述脂肪醇聚氧乙烯醚硫酸铵简称AESA,其结构式为RO(CH2CH2O)nSO3NH4 +,R=C12-C18烷基,n为2-4,优选平均乙氧化程度为n=3,所述月桂醇聚氧乙烯醚硫酸铵市售产品的活性物含量有25%和70%两种,25%活性物含量的月桂醇聚氧乙烯醚硫酸铵为无色透明粘稠液体,70%活性物含量的月桂醇聚氧乙烯醚硫酸铵为白色或淡黄色糊状物,优选活性物含量为70%的月桂醇聚氧乙烯醚硫酸铵。所述 月桂醇聚氧乙烯醚硫酸铵还具有非离子表面活性剂的特性,在硬水中仍具有较好的去污能力。所述月桂醇硫酸铵和月桂醇聚氧乙醚硫酸铵的复配使用,可以产生良好的协同效应,如:具有致密而丰富的泡沫、极温和的感觉、出色的增稠性能等。
本发明中,月桂醇硫酸铵占本发明洗发水重量百分比8%,月桂醇聚氧乙烯醚硫酸铵占本发明洗发水重量百分比12%。
此外,硫酸盐型表活体系中还包含占无硅洗发水重量1.0%至10.0%的椰油两性醋酸钠或椰油酰胺丙基甜菜碱,所述椰油基两性醋酸钠为无色至微黄色透明粘稠液体,其市售产品的活性物含量为30%,25℃条件下,其粘度为5000-10000,氯化钠含量小于9.0%,1%水溶液的pH为6.0-8.0,其结构式为RN(CH2COONa)所述椰油基两性醋酸钠的刺激性低,对皮肤、眼睛特别温和,与阴离子表面活性剂相配能显著降低其刺激性,且具有良好的发泡力,泡沫丰富细密,肤感好,能显著改善配方体系的泡沫状态。所述椰油酰胺丙基甜菜碱为微黄色透明液体,其市售产品的活性物含量为30%,氯化钠含量小于6.0%,游离胺含量小于0.10%,其1%水溶液的PH值为5.0-7.0,其结构式为RCONH(CH2)3N+(CH3)2CH2COO-。所述椰油酰胺丙基甜菜碱具有优良的配伍性,且具有优良的发泡性和显著的增稠性,具有良好的抗硬水性、抗静电性和生物降解性,本发明优选椰油酰胺丙基甜菜碱,本发明中椰油酰胺丙基甜菜碱占本发明洗发水的重量百分比6%。
阳离子聚合物:本发明的香波组合物中含有占组合物重量0.05%至3.0%的阳离子聚合物,所述阳离子聚合物选自:阳离子纤维素聚合物、阳离子瓜儿胶聚合物中的至少一种。所述阳离子纤维素聚合物是羟乙基纤维素与烷基三甲基 氯化铵的共聚物,根据阳离子取代度的不同可分为:高阳离子取代度JR、中阳离子取代度LR和低阳离子取代度LK三种型号,优选高阳离子取代度的阳离子纤维素聚合物,即聚季铵盐-10,其它适合用于本发明的阳离子纤维素聚合物还有羟乙基纤维素与二烷基二甲基氯化铵的共聚物等;所述阳离子瓜儿胶是将瓜儿胶季铵化后得到的产品,其主要组分为瓜儿胶丙基三甲基氯化铵,根据取代度的不同可得到一系列的阳离子瓜儿胶产品,优选取代度为0.1至0.2,用于本发明的阳离子瓜儿胶在25℃条件下,其1%水溶液的黏度为2000mPa.s至4000mPa.s。本发明优选阳离子瓜尔胶聚合物,本发明阳离子瓜尔胶聚合物占本发明洗发水重量百分比0.15%。
聚甘油及其酯类调理剂:本发明头发调理剂成份除常规使用的阳离子聚合物如聚季铵盐-10和阳离子瓜尔胶外,可以采用聚甘油和聚甘油酯类,二甲基硅氧烷类,脂肪醇类及其混合物;本发明洗发水为无硅油洗发水,因此,本发明调理剂优选甘油酯类,适用于本发明的聚甘油及甘油酯类选自于:聚甘油-2、聚甘油-6、聚甘油-10、聚甘油-10十油酸酯、聚甘油-6二硬脂酸酯、聚甘油-6油酸酯、聚甘油-6二油酸酯、甘油-6六油酸酯、聚甘油-10硬脂酸酯及其混合物。经过优化,本发明选择的聚甘油为聚甘油-10,本发明选择的聚甘油调理剂其HLB值介于7-10之间,因此本发明聚甘油调理剂优选聚甘油-6单油酸酯或聚甘油-6二油酸酯,本发明最优选择的聚甘油调理剂为聚甘油-6二油酸酯,因此本发明头发调理剂成份除常规使用的阳离子聚合物如聚季铵盐-10和阳离子瓜尔胶外,还优选了聚甘油-10和聚甘油-6二油酸酯。
聚甘油-10:聚甘油-10外观为黄色或浅黄色透明液体,密度(25℃)为0.910-1.180、CAS NO.9041-07-0.、聚甘油-10、十个甘油的环聚结构而形成笼式锁水的效果,再加上氢键缔合,其保湿性效果明显且持久。此外,由于十环 聚结构和笼式锁水效应,疏水性分子进入笼内被锁定从而形成油水共性的效应,这种油水共性的效应使得聚甘油-10能在皮肤和头发上连续成膜并具有与硅油弹性体类似的粉质触感,因此,聚甘油-10在本发明中充当了保湿和调理的作用。
聚甘油-6二油酸酯:聚甘油-6二油酸酯别名:二油酸六聚甘油酯、聚甘油-6-双油酸酯,CAS:76009-37-5,酸值(mg KOH/g)≤2.0,皂化值(mg KOH/g)150-180,碘值:(g I2/100g)340.HLB值约8.0;聚甘油-6二油酸酯为浅黄色至微黄色澄清油状液体。无杂质,无臭无味,溶于乙醚、氯仿和四氯化碳,微溶于乙醇。本发明中聚甘油-6二油酸酯几乎不溶于水,可分散于水中。
本发明聚甘油-10和聚甘油-6二油酸酯形成大分子的网络结构,除起到头皮和头发的保湿和调理作用外,聚甘油-10和聚甘油-6二油酸酯与本发明红球姜花苞提取物还能起到稳定泡沫和提升泡沫质量(改善泡沫结构和弹性)的作用,对洗发水的清洁性具有一定的协同效果并且降低表面活性剂的刺激性。
本发明聚甘油-10与聚甘油-6二油酸酯的重量比为:聚甘油-10:聚甘油-6二油酸酯=3:1
其中聚甘油-10占本发明洗发水重量百分比为0.1-4%,进一步优化为0.2-2%;聚甘油-6二油酸酯占本发明洗发水重量百分比为0.05-1%,进一步优化为0.07-0.67%。
化妆品可接受的载体
本发明其余化妆品可接受的载体可以含有珠光浆,所述珠光浆中的主要活性物质为乙二醇单硬脂酸酯和乙二醇双硬脂酸酯。所述珠光浆的加入,可以赋予香波漂亮的珠光效果。
本发明还可以包含其它任选组分,包括黏度调节剂、螯合剂、pH调节剂、防腐 剂、色素和香料等。所述黏度调节剂占组合物重量的0.1%至5.0%,所述黏度调节剂的非限定性实例有:氯化钠、氯化铵、单乙醇胺氯化物、纤维素衍生物、丙烯酸共聚物等。所述螯合剂占组合物重量的0.01%至0.30%,所述螯合剂的非限定性实例有:乙二胺四乙酸、乙二胺四乙酸二钠、乙二胺四乙酸四钠、柠檬酸、磷酸、抗坏血酸等,优选乙二胺四乙酸二钠;所述pH调节剂的非限定性实例有:柠檬酸、磷酸等,优选柠檬酸,调节体系的pH在4.0至6.0,优选4.5至5.5;所述防腐剂、香精、色素的选取,符合化妆品卫生标准的规定,选用安全的原料。
本发明的香波组合物中,除了以上所述组分外,用水补至所需量。
本发明红球姜洗发水包含以下主要成分成份(占本发明洗发水重量百分比如下)
a)红球姜提取物占本发明洗发水重量0.5-20%,进一步优化为1-15%;
b)表面活性剂占本发明洗发水重量5-40%的,进一步优化为8%的月桂醇硫酸铵,12%的月桂醇聚醚硫酸铵,6%的椰油酰胺丙基甜菜碱;
c)阳离子聚合物占本发明洗发水重量0.05-3%,进一步优化为0.15%;
d)聚甘油及其酯类调理剂占本发明洗发水重量0.15-5%,进一步优化为聚甘油-10为0.2-2.0%,聚甘油-6二油酸酯为0.07-0.67%,且聚甘油-10与聚甘油-6二油酸酯的重量比为3:1。
e)及余量的水。
红球姜花苞提取物:红球姜花苞提取物在本发明中重量百分比为0.5-20%,进一步优化为1-15%。
红球姜花苞提取物的制备方法:
1、花苞采摘:红球姜花期9-10个月的时候,其球果状的花序变为红色,代表红球姜成熟。此时采集其花苞,花苞从距苞茎底部2厘米处割下并放入4摄氏度的容器储存。
2、压榨:将采集的花苞放入压榨机(压榨重量约1吨)压榨,然后收集粘液,粘液中含有大约2厘米直径的苞片以一些微粒。
3、过滤:将以上红球姜花苞粘液用10目不锈钢筛进行过滤,去掉苞片和细小固体微粒,成为红球姜花苞初榨粘液。
4、防腐处理:将以上初榨粘液进行防腐处理,将初榨粘液加入重量0.5%的苯氧乙醇,加入重量0.6%的双(羟甲基)咪唑烷基脲,以及重量0.1%的EDTA-2钠,之后混合搅拌直到分散和溶解。
5、离心过滤:将防腐处理后的初榨粘液置于装配有60目过滤筛的离心机,离心速度为10000-15000转/分钟,并将颗粒大于60目的微小颗粒物分离。
6、精滤:将上述步骤5)过滤液置于装配有100目过滤筛的离心机,离心速度为10000-15000转/分钟,将颗粒大于100目的微小颗粒物分离并最终获得红球姜花苞提取物。
红球姜花苞提取物的化学分析:
钙离子(毫克)/100克提取物:2-4
铁离子(毫克)/100克提取物:0.1-0.2
钾离子(毫克)/100克提取物:15-22
钠离子(毫克)/100克提取物:18-20
脂肪(克)/100克提取物:0.01-0.03
蛋白质(克)/100克提取物:0.5-1.5
碳水化合物(克)/100克提取物:0.05-0.1
水分(克)/100克提取物:99。
本发明的制备方法。
本发明的香波组合物可以通过任何已知或其它有效的适用于提供香波组合物的技术制备,制备本发明的香波组合物的方法包括常规的配制和混合技术。
使用方法
本发明的香波组合物以常规的清洁和调理头发的方式使用,主要包括以下几个步骤:
(A)用水将头发润湿;
(B)在所述头发上施用有效量的前述任一项权利要求的香波组合物,所述有效剂量的范围通常为1克至50克,优选2至20克;第一次先取少量本发明洗发水先洗头皮与发根,冲洗后第二次取比第一次多的洗发水量洗头发。
这些步骤可以根据需要重复多次,以达到所寻求的头皮和头发清洁、调理、滋润和保湿的功效。
实施例
下面是本发明的香波组合物的非限定性实例。这些实施例的给出仅仅是为了说明的目的,并不能理解为对本发明的限定,因为在不脱离本发明的精神和范围的基础上,可以对本发明进行许多改变。在这些实施例中,除非特别说明,所有的浓度都是重量百分比。所用术语“少量物质”指的是任选的那些物质,如防腐剂、粘度调节剂、pH调节剂、香料、色素等,这些少量物质的选择将随着选定的用以制备本发明的特定成分的物理和化学特性而改变。
制备实施例:对比1,对比2,对比3和对比4,以及实施例Ⅰ-Ⅵ
合适的制备实施例对比1,对比2,对比3和对比4,以及实施例Ⅰ-Ⅵ,其中所述香波组合物的方法如下:将适量水加入到反应罐中,加入聚甘油-10和聚甘油-6二油酸酯搅拌分散均匀,然后在缓慢搅拌下加入阳离子瓜尔胶进行分散,加热到60℃至80℃,接着加入月桂烷基硫酸铵、月桂醇聚氧乙烯醚硫酸铵、椰油酰胺丙基甜菜碱、乙二胺四乙酸二钠(如果使用这些物质),使这些物质完全分散后降温。待温度降至65℃左右时加入红球姜花苞提取物(如果使用这个物质),继续搅拌并降温,当降温到50℃时加入氯化钠、柠檬酸、防腐剂、着色剂(色素)、香精等继续搅拌,确保得到均匀的混合物。在加入所有的组分后,可根据需要加入粘度调节剂和pH调节剂,调节产品的粘度,将pH值调整到4.5-5.5,最后可以加入水补足。
实施例:对比1,对比2以及实施例Ⅰ-Ⅲ
Figure PCTCN2017100471-appb-000002
实施例:对比3,对比4以及实施例Ⅳ-Ⅵ
Figure PCTCN2017100471-appb-000003
本发明的最佳实施例是:
Figure PCTCN2017100471-appb-000004
Figure PCTCN2017100471-appb-000005
各实施例泡沫情况表
Figure PCTCN2017100471-appb-000006
对比1、对比2,对比3和对比4组合物的罗氏泡沫高度和泡沫弹性(平均值)均小于实施例Ⅰ-Ⅲ以及实施例Ⅳ-Ⅵ,说明本发明中随着植物提取物红球姜花苞提取物以及调理剂聚甘油-10和聚甘油-6二油酸酯的加入对本发明泡沫质量的提升具有一定的作用,并且随着添加量的增加,泡沫质量的提升效果越好,其中实施例Ⅴ为最好。对比2和对比3相比泡沫弹性变化不大,而泡沫高度增加值较大,说明本发明在不含有红球姜花苞提取物的情况下,随着调理剂 聚甘油-10和聚甘油-6二油酸酯重量百分比的增加,泡沫的高度(泡沫量)会随之增加。
功效测试
产品性能测试(泡沫特性)
(a)本发明洗发水(含红球姜花苞提取物的洗发水/无硅油—以实施例Ⅴ进行说明,以下同)
(b)对比洗发水(不含有任何提取物/无硅油—以对比3例子进行说明,以下同)
(c)市售洗发水(含有生姜提取物/无硅油—以市售某品牌A无硅洗发水进行说明,以下同)
采用罗氏(Ross--Miles)泡沫测定仪的测试方法进行测试,分别测试起始泡沫高度,1分钟后泡沫高度和5分钟后泡沫高度,然后取平均值(见表1)
表1
Figure PCTCN2017100471-appb-000007
泡沫数值越大说明洗发水的发泡性能越好。通过以上数值可以看出,与对比洗发水和市售洗发水相比,本发明含有红球姜花苞提取物的洗发水的泡沫性能均优于对比洗发水和市售洗发水。
泡沫结构研究
将以上(a)(b)(c)洗发水配置成体积比2%的水溶液如,2%洗发水(a) +98%去离子水;2%洗发水(b)+98%去离子水;2%洗发水(c)+98%去离子水搅拌均匀备用。
分别将以上备用的150毫升的(a)水溶液香波,(b)水溶液香波和(c)水溶液香波置入带有搅拌桨的高筒烧瓶,然后快速搅拌20秒,然后取1克泡沫放入纸巾的中央,10分钟后观察水往外浸润的距离,水往外浸润的距离越短,泡沫的密度和厚度越大,反之,泡沫越稀薄。本实验中的采用高速搅拌并产生泡沫模仿实际洗发过程中所产生的泡沫。结果见表2,
表2
Figure PCTCN2017100471-appb-000008
结果显示与对照洗发水和市售洗发水相比,本发明含有红球姜花苞提取物的洗发水总浸润距离小于对照品和市售洗发水,说明本发明洗发水具有更加浓厚的泡沫结构。
泡沫感觉感官评价
泡沫的结构和弹性能使人对泡沫的质地产生不同的感觉。
本实验采用泡沫结构实验方法获得的泡沫进行人工评价。
(1)泡沫结构感官评价,分值分为1-5分,1分代表松散的泡沫,5分代表细小且高密度的泡沫。
(2)泡沫弹性感官评价方法为:,分值分为1-5分,1分代表泡沫容易碰触变形, 5分代表泡沫弹性好,当碰触后,泡沫容易恢复其形状。
无论以上评价(1)还是(2)数值越大代表消费者越喜欢。分别见表3和表4。
表3(泡沫结构感官评价)
Figure PCTCN2017100471-appb-000009
结果显示与对照洗发水和市售洗发水相比,本发明含有红球姜花苞提取物的洗发水总浸润距离小于对照品和市售洗发水,说明本发明洗发水具有更加浓厚的泡沫结构。
表4(泡沫弹性感官评价)
Figure PCTCN2017100471-appb-000010
结果显示与对比洗发水和市售洗发水相比,本发明含有红球姜花苞提取物的洗发水,无论泡沫结构感官评价还是泡沫弹性的感官评价数值均高于对照品和市售洗发水,泡沫结构和泡沫弹性的提升对于洗发水上头时的触摸感以及冲洗时的柔顺体验感具有很大的帮助,说明本发明洗发水具有更加优异的泡沫特性。
清洁性测试
将以上(a)(b)(c)洗发水配置成体积比2%的水溶液如,2%洗发水(a)+98%去离子水;2%洗发水(b)+98%去离子水;2%洗发水(c)+98%去离子水搅拌均匀备用。
合成油脂的制备:
合成油脂是为了模仿头发中油脂的组成进行设计的。
按照重量比,将橄榄油30%,棕榈酸10%,硬脂酸10%,油酸10%,石蜡10%,角鲨烯15%,蜂蜡15%放置在一起,加热直到溶解和分散均匀,备用。
取配置好的合成油脂重量百分比5%加入到重量百分比95%的乙醇中配制成5%的合成油脂溶液。
取三组每组15个发束,发束的尺寸长10厘米,宽1厘米,每个发束样品称重并记录。将样品发束置入5%的合成油脂溶液并浸润1分钟后取出,然后风干,称重,即可确定发束样品中残留的合成油脂的重量(mg)。然后准备体积比2%的水溶液并且分别含有(a)本发明含有红球姜花苞提取物的洗发水;(b)对照洗发水(不含有红球姜花苞提取物)和(c)市售洗发水(含有生姜提取物)各500毫升备用。将三组用5%的合成油脂溶液处理过的发束浸入以上三个500毫升的洗发水中清洗2分钟,用水冲洗1分钟后放入干燥箱中干燥12个小时,取出并再次称重,并计算出头发上的残留物质(合成油脂)的除去量,最后计算发束的平均去除量见表5
表5
Figure PCTCN2017100471-appb-000011
Figure PCTCN2017100471-appb-000012
以上结果显示,本发明洗发水和对比洗发水具有较好的去除合成油脂的作用,且本发明洗发水具有更强的清洁能力,对比发现,市售洗发水在头发清洁能力的方面逊色于本发明洗发水。

Claims (2)

  1. 一种含有红球姜花苞提取物的无硅洗发水,除含有洗发水可接受组分外,还含有:
    (A)占洗发水重量8%的月桂烷基硫酸铵和占洗发水重量12%的月桂醇聚氧乙烯醚硫酸铵,以及占洗发水重量6%的椰油酰胺丙基甜菜碱;
    (B)占洗发水重量0.15%的阳离子瓜尔胶;
    (C)占洗发水重量1-15%的红球姜花苞提取物;
    (D)占洗发水重量0.1-2%的聚甘油-10和占洗发水重量0.05-1%的聚甘油酯,且聚甘油-10与聚甘油-6二油酸酯的重量比,聚甘油-10:聚甘油-6二油酸酯=3:1。
  2. 一种含有红球姜花苞提取物的无硅洗发水,其组分和含量为:
    Figure PCTCN2017100471-appb-100001
PCT/CN2017/100471 2017-09-05 2017-09-05 一种含有红球姜花苞提取物的无硅洗发水 WO2019047000A1 (zh)

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